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T H S 

POPULAR  SCIENCE  MONTHLY, 

CONDUCTED  BY 

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The  growing  importance  of  scientific  knowledge  to  all  classes  of  the 
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Mrs.  Warfield’s  ITew  Novel 


MIRIAM  MORFORT. 

BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF  “ THE  HOUSEHOLD  OF  BO  U V ERIE," 

One  12mo  Volume,  Price ^ $2.00. 

The  N,  Y.  Evening  Post  says  of  “Miriam  Monfort;  ” “Mrs.  Warfield’s 
neiv  novel  has  freshness,  and  is  so  far  removed  from  mediocrity  as  to  entitle 
it  to  lospectful  comment.  Her  fiction  calls  for  study.  Her  perception  is  deep 
and  a^U''tic,  as  respects  both  the  dramatic  side  of  life  and  the  beautiful.  It 
is  not  bfrictly  nature,  in  the  general  sense,  that  forms  the  basis  of  her  descrip- 
tions. She  finds  something  deeper  and  more  mystic  than  nature  in  the  sense 
in  which  the  term  is  usually  used  by  critics,  in  the  answer  of  the  soul  to  life 
— in  the  strange,  weird,  and  lonesome  music  (though  now  and  then  broken  by 
discords)  of  the  still  small  voices  with  which  human  nature  replies  to  the 
questions  that  sorely  vex  her.  She  has  the  analytic  capacity  in  the  field  of 
psychology,  which  enables  her  to  trace  phenomena  in  a story  without  argu- 
ing about  them,  and  to  exhibit  the  dramatic  side  of  them  without  stopping  to 
explain  the  reasons  for  it.  In  a word,  her  hand  is  as  sure  as  that  of  a mas- 
ter, and  if  there  were  more  such  novels  as  this  simple  semi-biographical  story 
of  Miriam  Monfort,  it  would  not  be  necessary  so  often  to  put  the  question, 
‘ Is  the  art  of  fiction  extinct  ? 

The  Cincinnati  Daily  Gazette  says : “ ‘ Miriam  Monfort,’  whicTi  now  lies 
before  us,  is  less  sensational  in  incident  than  its  predecessor,  though  it  does 
not  lack  stirring  events — an  experience  on  a burning  ship,  for  example.  Its 
interest  lies  in  the  intensity  which  marks  all  the  characters  good  and  bad. 
The  plot  turns  on  the  treachery  of  a pretended  lover,  and  the  author  seems 
to  have  experienced  every  emotion  of  love  and  hate,  jealousy  and  fear,  that 
has  inspired  the  creations  of  her  pen.  There  is  a contagion  in  her  earnest- 
ness, and  we  doubt  not  that  numerous  readers  will  follow  the  fortunes  of  the 
beautiful  but  much-persecuted  Miriam  with  breathless  interest.” 

The  All  Day  City  Item  says : “ It  is  a work  of  extraordinary  merit.  The 
story  is  charmingly  told  by  the  heroine.  It  is  admirable  and  original  in  plot, 
varied  in  incident,  and  intensely  absorbing  in  interest;  besides,  throughout 
the  volume,  there  is  an  exquisite  combination  of  sensibility,  pride,  and  loveli- 
ness, which  will  hold  the  work  in  high  estimation.  We  make  a quotation  from 
the  book  that  suits  the  critic  exactly.  ‘ It  is  splendid ; it  is  a dream,  more 
vivid  than  life  itself ; it  is  like  drinking  champagne,  smelling  tuberoses,  in- 
haling laughing-gas,  going  to  the  opera,  all  at  one  time.’  We  recommend 
this  to  our  young  lady  friends  as  a most  thoughtfully  and  delightfully  writteu 
novel.” 

D.  APPLETON  & CO.,  Publishers, 

649  & 651  BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK. 


NOW  READY,  A NEW  EDITION  OF 


THE  HOUSEHOLD  OF  BOUVERIE 

BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF  “MIRIAM  MONFORT.’’ 

1 vol.,  12mo.  Price,  $2.00. 


JP^rom  Gail  Hamilton^  author  of  “ Gala  Baysf  etc. 

‘ The  Household  of  Bouverie  ’ is  one  of  those  nuisances  of  books  that  pluck 
out  all  your  teeth,  and  then  dare  you  to  bite  them.  Your  interest  is  awakened 
in  the  first  chapter,  and  you  are  whirled  through  in  a lightning-express  train  that 
leaves  you  no  opportunity  to  look  at  the  little  details  of  wood,  and  lawn,  and 
river.  You  notice  two  or  three  little  peculiarities  of  style — one  or  two  ‘ bits  ’ of 
painting— and  then  you  pull  on  your  seven-leagued  boots,  and  away  you  go.” 

From  John  G.  Saxe.,  the  Poet. 

“It  is  a strange  romance,  and  will  bother  the  critics  not  a little.  The  interest 
of  the  book  is  undeniable,  and  is  wonderfully  sustained  to  the  end  of  the  story. 
I think  it  exhibits  far  more  power  than  any  lady-novel  of  recent  date,  and  it  cer- 
tainly has  the  rare  merit  of  entire  originality.” 

From  Marion  Harlmd.,  author  of  Alone  f Hidden  Path  f etc. 

“ As  to  Mrs.  ‘Warfield’s  wonderful  book,  I have  read  it  twice— the  second  time 
more  carefully  than  the  first— and  I use  the  term  ‘ w'onderful  ’ because  it  best  ex- 
presses the  feeling  uppermost  in  my  mind,  both  while  reading  and  thinking  it 
over.  As  a piece  of  imaginative  wu-iting,  I have  seen  nothing  to  equal  it  since 
the  days  of  Edgar  A.  Poe,  and  I doubt  whether  he  could  have  sustained  himself 
and  reader  through  a book  of  half  the  size  of  the  ‘ Household  of  Bouverie.’  I was 
literally  hurried  through  it  by  my  intense  sympathy,  my  devouring  curiosity— it 
was  more  than  interest.  I read  everywhere — between  the  courses  of  the  hotel- 
table,  on  the  boat,  in  the  cars— until  I had  swallowed  the  last  line.  This  is  no 
common  occurrence  with  a veteran  romance-reader  like  myself.” 

From  George  Eipleifs  Review  of  “ The  Household  of  Bouverie,-' 
in  Harper's  Magazine,  November,  1860. 

“ Everywhere  betraying  a daring  boldness  of  conception,  singular  fertility  of 
illustration,  and  a combined  beauty  and  vigor  of  expression,  which  it  would  be 
difficult  to  match  in  any  recent  works  of  fiction.  In  these  days,  when  the  most 
milk-and- watery  platitudes  arc  so  often  welcomed  as  sibylline  inspirations,  it  is 
somewhat  refreshing  to  meet  with  a female  novel-writer  who  displays  the  un- 
mistakable fire  of  genius,  however  terrific  its  brightness.” 

New  York  : D.  APPLETON  & CO. 


THE  DESCENT  OF  MAN. 


D^xiwiisr. 

The  lyescent  of  Man, 

AND  SELECTION  IN  RELATION  TO  SEX.  By  Charles  Bar. 
WIN,  M.  A.,  F.  R.  S.,  etc.  With  Illustrations.  2 vols.,  12mo.  Cloth. 
Price,  $2.00  per  vol. 

Origin  of  Species  by  Means  of  Natural  Selection ; 

Or,  the  Preservation  of  Favored  Raees  in  the  Struggle  for  Life.  Nen 
and  revised  edition.  By  Charles  Darwin,  M.  A.,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  G. 
etc.  With  copious  Index.  1 vol.,  12mo.  Cloth.  Price,  $2.00 

ST.  mUNJLRH:. 

On  the  Genesis  of  Species* 

By  St.  George  Mivart,  F.  R.  S.  12mo,  316  pages.  Illustrated. 
Cloth.  Price,  $1.76. 

STEISTCEIR. 

The  Principles  of  Biology* 

By  Herbert  Spencer.  2 vols.  $6.00. 

KCXJXIL.EY. 

Man^^s  Place  in  Nature. 

By  Thomas  H.  Huxley,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S 1 vol.,  12mo.  Cloth, 
Price,  $1.25. 

On  the  Origin  of  Species. 

By  Thomas  H.  Huxley,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.  1 vol.,  12mo.  Cloth.  l*rice,  $1, 

a-^iL.TO]isr. 

Hereditary  Genius  : 

An  Inquiry  into  its  Laws  and  Consequences.  By  Francli  Galton 
New  revised  edition.  12mo.  Cloth.  Price,  $2.00, 

Primitive  Man. 

Illustrated  with  thirty  Scenes  of  Primitive  Life,  and  233  Figures  of 
Objects  belonging  to  Prehistoric  Ages.  By  Louis  Figuier,  author 
of  “ The  World  before  the  Deluge,”  ‘‘  The  Ocean  World,”  etc,  1 
vol.,  8vo.  Cloth.  Price,  $4.00. 

TTJJB330CK. 

Origin  of  Civilization, 

AND  THE  PRIMITIVE  CONDITION  OF  MAN.  By  Sir  Jora 
Lubbock,  Bart.,  M.  P.  1 vol.,  12rao.  Cloth.  Price  $2.00. 


Either  of  the  above  mailed  to  any  address  within  the  United  States,  on 
receipt  of  price. 

D.  APPLETON  & CO.,  Publishers, 

Nos.  649  & 66]  BROADWAY,  N.  Y. 


IFIFXII  ^-VElsrTJE,  IsTEW 
!HE  MOST  ELEGANT,  COSTLY,  ANE  PESEEOT  HOTEL  IN  THE  WOELE, 
IS  NOW  OPEN  POE  THE  EECEPTION  OP  GUESTS. 


The  Oo3t  of  the  WINDSOE  before  its  doors  were  opeoed  to  the  Public  was  over 
TWO  AND  A NAT.T  millions  OP  DOLLAES. 


The  WINDSOR  HOTEL  is  situated  tocafion'Sta^he 

Sts™?:oIu^t?o"view  iSrrali  orMauhattan  Island,  and  every  suburb  of  New 

travel.  . . ^ Q VATTTFJa  HAWK,  so  well  and  widely 

THE  WINDSOK  is  and^Ml^*^GAro  WETHERBEE.  of  the 

lown  as  the  Chief  of  the  iruarantec  tluat  no  expense  or  pains  will  be  ? 

le  best  conducted.  ,„Urva;fA/i  PYnpuse  cfin  produce  to  add  to  tbe 

Kverv  thin?  which  the  larpst  expenence  and  ""  ‘ 

,mfort  <;r  guc?ts  can  be  found  embodied  in  THE  WINDSOR. 

Fifth  Avenue,  46th  and  47th  Streets,  Neiv  lork. 


APPLETONS’  HAND-BOOK 


OF 


AMERICAN  TRAVEL. 


Ifcstettt  i-o«t 


EMBRACING 

ITEEN  THROUGH  ROUTES  TO  THE  WEST  AND  FAR  WEST, 
TOURS  OF  THE  GREAT  LAKES  AND  RIVERS, 


AND 

LOCAL  EORTES  OF  THE  STATES  OF  OHIO,  IHHIANA,  ILLINOIS, 
WA,  MICHIGAN,  WISCONSIN,  MINNESOTA,  MISSOURI,  KANSAS, 
NEBRASKAV'COLORADO,*' NEVADA,  CALIFORNIA,  AND  ORE-- 
GON,  AND  TERRITORIES  OF  DAKOTArWYOMING;  MON- 
TANAIIDAHO,  UTAH,  WASHINGTON,  AND  ALASKA. 


BEING  A COMPLETE  GUIDE  TO 

(E  EOCKY  MOUNTAINS,  YOSEMITE  VALLEY,  SIEERA  NEVADA,  THE 
MINING  REGIONS  OF  UTAH,  NEVADA,  ETC.,  AND  OTHER 
FAMOUS  LOCALITIES; 


WITH  PULL  DESCRIPTIVE  SKETCHES  OF  THE 

TOWNS,  RIVERS,  LAKES,  WATER-FALLS,  MOUNTAINS,  HUNTING  AND  FISHING 
GROUNDS,  AND  ALL  PLACES  AND  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST  WITHIN  THE 
DISTRICT  NAMED. 


Revised  for  Autumn  of  1873. 


NEW  YORK: 

APPLETON  AND  COMPANY, 

; 549  & 551  BROADWAY. 

LONDON:  SAMPSON  LOW.  SON,  AND  MARSTON. 

1873. 


1 


3STEW  ~5T0EE;, 

THE  MOST  ELESAKT,  COSTLY,  AMD  PEHPEOT  HOTEL  IN  THE  WC 
IS  MOW  OPEN  FOE  THE  EECEPTION  OF  &UESTS. 


The  Cost  of  the  WIMDSOE  before  its  doors  were  opened  to  the  Public  wa 
TWO  AMD  A HALF  MILLIONS  OF  DOLLAES.  ' 


The  WINDSOR  HOTEL  is  situated  in  the  very  heart  of  the  finest  and  most  exclu 
tion  ofNew  York  City,  on  the  highest  ground,  and  in  the  most  charming  location 
limits  of  the  city,  the  view  from  it  taking  in  all  of  Manhattan  Island,  and  every  suh^ 
York. 

It  is  quiet,  retired,  and  uninfluenced  hy  the  noise  and  traffic  of  the  Metropolis 
immediate  and  easy  proximity  with  CentrarPark,  the  New  York  Central  Depot,  an 
of  travel. 

THE  WINDSOR  is  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  SAMUEL  HAWK,  so  we’ 
known  as  the  Chief  of  the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  and  Mr.  GARDNER  WETHEP 
Revere  House,  Boston,  which  is  sufficient  guarantee  that  no  expense  or  pains  wi' 
make  THE  WINDSOR  not  only  the  largest,  finest,  and  costliest  hotel  building  irj4^ 
the  best  conducted. 

Every  thing  Avhich  the  largest  experience  and  unlimited  expense  can  produce  r 
comfort  of  guests  can  be  found  embodied  in  THE  WINDSOR.  / 

Fifth  Avenue f 4:0th  and  47th  Streets ^ Neiv 


) 


AFPIKTONS’  HANU-BOOK 

OF 

AMERICAN  TRAVEL. 


EMBRACING 

EIGHTEEN  THROUGH  ROUTES  TO  THE  WEST  AND  FAR  WEST, 
TOURS  OF  THE  GREAT  LAKES  AND  RIVERS, 


AND 

ALL  LOCAL  ROUTES  OF  THE  STATES  OF  OHIO,  INDIANA,  ILLINOIS, 
IOWA,  MICHIGAN,  WISCONSIN,  MINNESOTA,  MISSOURI,  KANSAS,'^ 
NEBRASKA^  COLORADO,*^  NEVADA,  CALIFORNIA,  AND  ORE  - 
GON, AND  TERRITORIES  OF  DAKOTA^W  YOMING;  MON- 
TANAV^IDAHO,  UTAH,  WASHINGTON,  AND  ALASKA. 


BEING  A COMPLETE  GUIDE  TO 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS,  YOSEMITE  VALLEY,  SIERRA  NEVADA,  THE 
MINING  REGIONS  OF  UTAH,  NEVADA,  ETC.,  AND  OTHER 
FAMOUS  LOCALITIES; 


WITH  FULL  DESCRIPTIVE  SKETCHES  OF  THE 

CITIES,  TOWNS,  RIVERS,  LAKES,  WATER-FALLS,  MOUNTAINS,  HUNTING  AND  PISHING 
GROUNDS,  AND  ALL  PLACES  AND  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST  WITHIN  THE 
DISTRICT  NAMED. 


Revised  for  Autumn  of  1873. 


NEW  YORK: 

D.  APPLETON  AND  COMPANY, 

549  & 551  BROADWAY. 

LONDON:  SAMPSON  LOW.  SON,  AND  MAESTON. 

1873. 


I 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871,  by  D.  APPLETON  & COMPANY, 
in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1873,  by  D.  APPLETON  & COMPANY, 
in  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


-7# 


L 


TO  THE  TEAVELLEE. 


This  is  a companion-volume  to  tlie  Haistd-Book:  of  Travel,  Northern 
and  Eastern  Tour^  and  the  Hand-Book  of  Travel,  Southern  Tour.  Each 
of  the  three  parts  of  the  work  is  a separate  and  complete  volume,  and  all 
of  them  together  form  a general  guide  to  every  portion  of  the  United 
States. 

The  plan  of  this  hook  is  very  simple,  and  will  be  readily  understood  by 
the  aid  of  the  Table  of  Contents  and  the  Index.  The  four  great  “Trunk 
Lines,”  from  the  Atlantic  seaboard  to  the  Mississippi,  which  connect  with 
the  Union  Pacific  Kailway  at  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha,  are  the  Hew  York 
Central  & Hudson  River  Railway,  the  Hew  York  & Erie  Railway,  the 
Pennsylvania  Central  Railway,  and  the  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railway.  These, 
with  their  branches,  all  described  in  this  volume,  connect  by  rail  with 
almost  every  city,  town,  and  village  in  the  United  States.  Each  line  has 
its  advantages,  and  the  “ intelligent  traveller,”  before  buying  his  ticket,  will 
choose  the  one  which  will  enable  him,  without  annoyance  or  unnecessary 
expense,  to  visit,  en  route^  such  cities,  towns,  and  localities,  as  he  may  desire. 

Passengers  from  Boston  and  the  Eastern  States  can  travel  to  the  Pacific 
by  “all  rail,”  ria  Albany  or  Hew  York,  or  by  steamer  on  Long  Island 
Sound.  Hew  York  travellers,  who  wish  to  visit  Hiagara  and  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge,  can  do  so  by  way  of  the  Hew  York  Central,  or  Hew  York  & 
Erie  trunk  lines.  The  former  will  take  him  through  Central  Hew  York, 
nia  Albany,  Rochester,  and  Buffalo,  while  the  latter  traverses  the  southern 
portion  of  the  State,  xia  Binghamton,  Corning,  and  Buffalo.  From  Hew 
Jersey  and  Philadelphia,  the  traveller  to  the  West  will  take  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Central  line,  and  from  Baltimore  and  Washington  he  will  take  one 
oof  the  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railway  routes.  From  Cincinnati,  Chicago,  and 
St.  Louis,  there  are  numerous  routes  through  to  Omaha,  the  eastern  ter- 
minus of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway. 

The  cost  of  travelling  by  rail  in  the  Western  States  is  about  three  cents 
per  mile.  Children  under  twelve  years  of  age  are  generally  charged  for  at 


iv 


TO  THE  TRAVELLER. 


half  price,  and  those  under  five  years  of  age  are  passed  free.  Sleeping-cars 
are  run  on  all  through-trains,  and  on  most  of  the  lines  may  be  engaged  in 
advance  for  the  entire  distance  from  ISTew  York  to  San  Francisco  at  the 
usual  charges.  From  $2  to  $3  per  day  (24  hours)  is  generally  charged  for 
the  use  of  sleeping-cars.  The  average  speed  on  express  trains  is  about 
thirty  miles  an  hour.  Travel  on  steamboats  is  somewhat  less  expensive, 
and  less  expeditious  than  by  rail. 

The  charge,  at  first-class  hotels  throughout  the  United  States,  is  from 
$4  to  $4.50  per  day.  Board  by  the  week  is  generally  to  be  had  at  a lower 
price.  The  cost  of  meals  while  travelling  may  be  estimated  at  from  $2  to 
$3  per  day.  The  best  hotels  in  the  various  cities  and  towns  are  designated 
in  their  proper  places  in  the  body  of  the  Guide. 

It  is  the  custom  in  America  to  deliver  baggage  to  a person  known  as 
the  baggage-master,  who  will  give  in  return  a “ check”  for  every  piece,  on 
presentation  of  which  the  baggage  is  delivered.  Baggage  may  be  checked 
over  long  routes  in  this  way,  and  the  traveller,  no  matter  how  many  times 
he  changes  cars  or  vehicles,  has  no  concern  about  his  trunks.  The  compa- 
nies are  responsible  if  the  baggage  should  be  injured  or  lost,  the  check 
being  evidence  of  delivery  into  their  hands.  The  traveller,  arriving  at 
the  station,  should  first  procure  his  ticket  at  the  ticket-ofiice,  and  then, 
proceeding  to  the  baggage-car,  or  proper  station  of  the  baggage-master, 
have  his  trunks  checked.  The  baggage-master  usually  requires  the  travel- 
ler to  exhibit  his  ticket  before  he  will  check  the  trunks.  Arriving  at  his 
destination,  the  check  may  be  handed  to  the  hotel-porter,  always  in  wait- 
ing, who  will  procure  the  various  articles,  and  have  them  sent  to  the  hotel. 
The  traveller  in  the  United  States,  by  the  system  now  in  vogue,  is  almost 
entirely  relieved  from  any  care  or  concern  about  his  luggage. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  fee  porters  and  waiters  in  the  States,  as  it  is  in 
Europe,  but  the  practice  has  some  slight  and  irregular  observance.  The 
traveller  is  free  to  do  as  he  pleases  in  the  matter.  Nothing  of  the  kind  is 
ever  demanded.  In  all  large  cities  there  are  coaches  or  omnibuses  at  the 
station  on  the  arrival  of  every  train,  which  connect  directly  with  the  prin- 
cipal hotels.  A small  charge  is  made  for  this  conveyance,  which,  in  some 
cases,  is  paid  to  the  omnibus  porter,  and  in  others  is  regularly  charged  to 
the  traveller  in  the  hotel  bill. 

Travellers  from  abroad  will  understand  that  the  present  currency  in 
the  United  States,  with  the  exception  of  California,  is  exclusively  bank- « 
notes.  These  are  issues  of  the  national  Treasury,  commonly  known  as 
green-tacTcs^  and  the  notes  of  the  national  banks.  They  are  taken  every- 
where without  hesitation,  and  serve  every  practical  purpose  of  coin.  All 
prices  arc  understood  to  bo  in  this  currency,  Which  is  at  a discount  for 


TO  THE  TRAVELLER. 


V 


gold ; or,  as  the  phrase  is  here,  gold  is  at  a premium— now  (November, 
1873),  of  about  ten  per  cent.  In  the  British  Provinces,  the  circulating 
medium  is  coin,  or  the  notes  of  the  local  banks,  which  are  at  par.  In  Cali- 
fornia, gold  and  silver  are  generally  used,  though  bank-notes  are  coming 
into  circulation. 

As  regards  outfit,  it  is  important  for  the  traveller  that  he  should  be 
dressed  with  suflaqient  warmth.  Our  climate  is  very  changeable,  and  the 
traveller  had  better  suffer  at  noonday  under  too  much  clothing,  than  ex- 
pose himself  at  night,  in  storms,  or  to  sudden  changes  of  the  atmosphere, 
with  too  little.  One  should  wear  woollen  under-clothing,  and  always  have 
a shawl  or  extra  wrapper  of  some  kind.  The  traveller’s  own  judgment 
will  suggest  to  him  that  strong  suits  of  gray  or  brown  are  more  convenient 
and  suitable  than  darker  colors. 

Full  tables  of  distances  accompany  the  description  of  each  route  in  this 
volume,  but,  for  hasty  reference,  the  following  summary  will  be  useful  to 
the  traveller : 


Distances. 

To  Cincinnati. 

From  New  York 

861  miles. 

U U 

758  “ 

“ Boston 

992  “ 

“ Philadelphia 

667  “ 

“ Baltimore 

591  “ 

To  Sf.  Louis. 

From  New  York 

1,065  miles. 

“ “ - 

1,098  “ 

“ Boston 

1.334  “ 

“ Philadelphia 

1,'008  “ 

“ Baltimore 

973  “ 

To  Chicago. 

From  New  York 

961  miles. 

958  “ 

“ Baltimore 

899  “ 

“ Boston 

1,020  “ 

“ Philadelphia 

823  “ 

To  Omaha. 

From  New  York 

1,393  miles. 

“ Boston 

1,513  “ 

“ Philadelphia 

1,317  “ 

“ TVashington 

1,342  “ 

“ Baltimore 

1,292  “ 

“ St.  Louis 

800  “ 

“ Chicago 

494  “ 

Fia 


Erie  Eailway, 

“ Pan-handle  ” Route. 


Pennsylvania  Central  Eailway. 
“ Pan -handle  ” Route. 


New  York  Central  & Hudson  River  Railway. 

Erie  and  Lake-Shore  & Michigan  Southern  itailwaye. 
Allentown  Route. 


To  San  Francisco. 

From  Omaha 1,914  miles. 


In  the  preparation  of  this  volume,  the  design  has  been  to  make  it  a 
complete  guide  to  the  ‘Western  country ; but,  apart  from  the  value  it  may 
possess  to  the  traveller,  it  is  hoped  that  it  will  be  found  useful  as  a general 
gazetteer  of  the  country  it  purports  to  cover. 


vi 


TO  THE  TRAVELLER. 


Much  care  has  been  taken  to  make  the  Hand-Book  accurate  and  com- 
plete in  every  -particular,  and  the  present  edition  has  been  carefully  revised 
for  the  autumn  of  1873,  every  part  of  the  book  being  corrected  and  brought 
up  to  date.  Notwithstanding  this,  however,  so  great  is  the  complexity  of 
the  task,  some  errors  will  probably  be  found  in  it,  and  some  omissions.  It 
is  hoped  that  the  detector  of  these  will  call  them  to  the  attention  of  the 
Editor,  in  order  that  he  may  correct  them  in  future  editions.  Communi- 
cations should  be  addressed  to  the  Editoe  of  Appletons’  Hand-Book  of 
Teavel,  care  of  D.  Appleton  & Co.,  New  York. 

In  addition  to  the  Hand-Book  of  Teavel,  the  traveller  will  need  a 
copy  of  Appletons’  Railway  Guide,  published  semi-monthly,  with  time- 
tables corrected  to  date,  price  twenty-five  cents. 


CONTENTS. 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


PAGB 

To  THE  Traveller iii 

GRAND  THROUGH-ROUTES  TO  THE  WEST 

I. — New  York  to  Chicago  via  New  York  Central  & Hudson  River  Rail- 
way, and  Great  Western  and  Michigan  Central  Railways 1 

II. — New  York  to  Chicago,  via  Erie  and  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern 

Railways 15 

III.  — New  York  to  Chicago,  via  Allentown  Line,  which  includes  the  Central 

Railway  of  New  Jersey,  Lebanon  Valley,  Pennsylvania  Central,  and 
Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  & Chicago  Railways 24 

IV.  — New  York  to  Chicago,  via  Pan-Handle  Route,  which  includes  the  New 

Jersey  Railway  to  Philadelphia,  the  Pennsylvania  Central,  and  the 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Railway,  which  includes  the  Colum- 
bus, Chicago  & Indiana  Central  Railways 25 

V. — New  York  to  Cincinnati,  via  Erie  Railway 29 

VI. — New  York  to  Cincinnati,  via  Pan-Handle  Route  (identical  with  Route 

IV.  as  far  as  Columbus,  0.  (^Seepage  25) 40 

VII. — New  York  to  St.  Louis,  via  Pennsylvania  Central  and  connecting  Rail- 
ways, known  as  the  Pan-Handle  Route 41 

YIII. — New  York  to  St.  Louis,  via  Route  II.  to  Cleveland,  and  thence  via 
Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati  & Indianapolis,  and  Indianapolis  & 

St.  Louis  Railways 67 

IX. — New  York  to  St.  Louis,  via  Pan-Handle  Route,  which  is  Route  VI.  to 

Cincinnati ; thence  via  Ohio  & Mississippi  Railway 59 

X. — Baltimore  to  St.  Louis,  via  Baltimore  & Ohio,  Little  Miami,  and  Ohio 

& Mississippi  Railways 60 

XI. — Baltimore  to  St.  Louis,  via  Baltimore  & Ohio,  Marietta  & Cincinnati, 

and  Ohio  & Mississippi  Railways 'TO 

XII.  — New  York  to  Omaha,  via  Chicago  & Northwestern  Railway 72 

XIII.  — New  York  to  Omaha,  via  any  Route  to  Chicago,  thence  by  Chicago, 

Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway 75 


viii 


CONTENTS. 


PAOB 

XIV. — Chicago  to  Omaha,  via  Chicago,  Burlington  & Quincy,  and  Burlington 

& Missouri  River  Railways 78 

XV. — New  York  to  Omaha,  via  Logansport,  Peoria,  and  Keokuk.  Via 
Route  II.  to  Toledo ; Route  XII.  to  Logansport  and  Pittsburg, 
Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  ; Toledo,  Peoria  & Warsaw  ; Bes  Moines  Val- 
ley and  Iowa  Division  of  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railways.  80 
XVI. — New  York  to  Omaha,  via  Route  II.  to  Toledo,  0.,  thence  via  Toledo, 
Wabash  & Western,  Hannibal  & St.  Joseph,  and  Kansas  City,  St. 


Joseph  & Council  Bluffs  Railways 82 

XVII. — St.  Louis  to  Denver  and  Cheyenne,  via  Pacific  Railway  of  Missouri, 

Kansas  Pacific  & Denver  Pacific  Railways 86 

XVIII. — Omaha  to  San  Francisco,  via  Union  Pacific,  Central  Pacific,  and 
Western  Pacific  Railways,  including  Excursions  to  the  Sweetwater 
Mining  Region  of  Wyoming;  and  to  Salt  Lake  City,  via  Utah  Cen- 
tral Railway 91 


TOURS  OF  THE  GREAT  LAKES  AND  RIVERS. 

I. — ^New  York  to  St.  Louis,  via  Niagara  Palls,  Lake  Erie,  Detroit  River, 

Lake  St.  Clair,  River  St.  Clair,  Lake  Huron,  River  St.  Mary,  Lake 
Superior,  and  Mississippi  Railway  and  Mississippi  River,  including 
Excursions  to  Mackinaw  Islands  and  Strait,  the  “ Pictured  Rocks,” 
the  North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior,  and  Duluth,  the  Eastern  Termi- 
nus of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway 136 

II. — ^Pittsburg,  Pa.,  to  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  via  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers 163 

III. — St.  Louis  to  the  “ Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,”  via  Missouri  River.  173 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIES— LOCAL  ROUTES. 

OHIO. — Cincinnati  to  Toledo,  181  ; Cincinnati  to  Sandusky,  182  ; Cincinnati  to 
Zanesville,  182  ; Cleveland  to  Pittsburg,  Pa.,  183  ; Cleveland  to  Cincinnati, 

183  ; Sandusky  to  Newark,  184  ; Columbus  to  Athens,  184 179 

INDIANA. — Cincinnati  to  Chicago,  186-188  ; Cincinnati  to  Indianapolis,  188; 
Cincinnati,  0.,  to  Lafayette,  Ind.,  188;  Madison  to  Chicago,  111.,  189; 
Louisville,  Ky.,  to  Chicago,  111.,  190  ; Indianapolis  to  Vincennes,  191  ; 
Indianapolis  to  Danville,  111.,  191  ; Evansville  to  Terre  Haute  and  Rock- 
ville, 192 185 

ILLINOIS. — Chicago  to  Cairo,  194 ; Chicago  to  St.  Louis,  196  ; Chicago  to 
Quincy,  197 ; Chicago  to  Dunleith,  111.,  and  Dubuque,  lo.,  198  ; Chicago 
to  Madison,  Wis.,  198  ; Chicago  to  Kenosha,  Wis.,  199  ; Kenosha,  Wis.,  to 
Rockford,  111.,  200  ; Dunleith  to  Cairo  200  ; Bloomington  to  Alton,  200 ; 


CONTENTS. 


ix 


FAG  a 


Peoria  to  Alton,  201 ; Peoria  to  Warsaw,  201 ; Danville  to  Peoria,  201 ; 
Sterling  to  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  201 ; Springfield  to  Pana,  202  ; East  St.  Louis 

to  Mount  Vernon,  202;  St,  Louis  to  Cairo,  202 192 

IOWA. — Keokuk  to  Mona,  204 ; Dubuque  to  Sioux  City,  205  ; Dubuque  to  Cedar 
Rapids,  205 ; Des  Moines  to  Fort  Dodge,  205  ; Wilton  to  Ashland,  205  ; 
Council  Bluffs  to  Sioux  City,  206 ; Calmar  to  Algona,  206 ; McGregor  to 
Austin,  Minn.,  206 202 


MICHIGAN. — Lake  Michigan,  207  ; Detroit  to  Grand  Haven,  208  ; Detroit  to 
Adrian,  209  ; Detroit  to  Port  Huron,  209  ; Detroit  to  Bay  City,  209 ; We- 
nona,  Mich.,  to  Fort  Wayne,  Ind.,  210;  Lansing  to  Greenville,  210  ; Lan- 
sing to  Battle  Creek  and  Climax,  211 ; Jackson  to  Whitehall,  211 ; White 
Pigeon  to  Grand  Rapids,  211 ; Allegan  to  Muskegon,  212  ; Kalamazoo  to 
South  Haven,  212  ; Toledo,  0.,  to  Jackson,  Mich.,  212  ; Detroit  to  Romeo, 

212;  New  Buffalo  to  BreedsviUe,  212 206 

WISCONSIN. — Chicago,  111.,  to  Milv^aukee,  214  ; Milwaukee  to  Prairie  du  Chien, 

216 ; Milwaukee  to  La  Crosse  and  Hudson,  217 ; Milwaukee  to  Madison, 

217 ; Milwaukee  to  Portage  City,  217 ; Milwaukee  to  Berlin  and  Winne- 
conne,  218  ; Chicago,  111.,  to  Marquette,  Mich.,  218  ; Racine,  Wis.,  to  Rock 
Island,  111.,  220;  Madison,  Wis.,  to  Chicago,  111.,  221;  Sheboygan  to  Fond 

du  Lac,  221 212 

MINNESOTA. — The  Lakes,  222  ; Milwaukee,  Wis.,  to  St.  Paul,  223  ; La  Crosse 
to  Winnebago,  224 ; Winona  to  St,  Peter,  224 ; St.  Paul  to  St.  James, 

224  ; St.  Paul  to  Breckenridge,  224  ; Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  225  ; St.  Paul 
to  Sauk  Rapids,  Crow  Wing,  and  the  Red  River,  226  ; St.  Paul  to  Red 


Wing,  227 ; St.  Paul  to  St.  Croix,  Wis.,  227 221 

MISSOURI. — Big  Trees,  228  ; St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City,  229 ; St.  Loiris  to  Ottum- 
wa, lo.,  230 ; St.  Louis  to  Belmont,  230 ; St.  Louis  to  Neosho,  230 ; Lex- 
ington to  St.  Joseph,  230 ; Cameron  to  Kansas  City,  231 ; St.  Joseph  to 

Hopkins,  231 ; Sedalia,  Mo.,  to  Fort  Scott,  Kas.,  231 227 

KANSAS.— "Kansas  City  to  Baxter  Springs,  234 ; Kansas  City  to  Atchison  and 
Waterville,  235  ; Leavenworth  to  Tioga,  235 ; Topeka  to  Emporia,  236  ; 

Junction  to  Chetopa,  236  ; Kansas  City  to  Ottawa,  237 232 

NEBRASKA. — Omaha  to  Lincoln,  239  ; Rulo  to  Pawnee  City,  239  ; Fremont  to 
Blair,  239 ; Nebraska  City,  239  ; Plattsmouth,  Falls  City,  Beatrice  City, 

and  Ashland,  240 237 

DAKOTA. — ^Vermilion,  241 240 

COLORADO. — ^Excursions  to  the  Mining  Districts,  242  ; the  Great  Natural  Parks, 

243  ; Tours  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  244 241 

WYOMING. — ^Evanston,  248 246 

MONTANA. — The  Scenery  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  248  ; Snake  or  Shoshone 

River,  251 ; Bannack,  Virginia  City,  Helena,  252 248 

IDAHO. — Boisee  City,  253  ; the  Great  Shoshone  Falls,  253  ; Lewiston,  Idaho 
City,  254 ...  252 


X 


CONTENTS. 


PAOB 

UTAH. — Great  Salt  Lake  Valley,  264;  Salt  Mountain,  Warm  Springs,  Hot 


Springs,  St.  George,  265  ; The  New  Silver  Mining  Districts,  225  ; East 

Canon  City,  256  ; Mormonism  and  the  Mormons,  267 254 

NEVADA. — Pyramid  Lake,  261 ; the  Silver  Mining  Districts,  with  Virginia,  Aus- 
tin, Hamilton,  and  Treasure  Cities  ; 261-263  ; Idlewild  Cave,  264 260 

CALIFORNIA. — San  Francisco  to  Lake  Tahoe  and  Donner  Lake,  267  ; San  Fran- 
cisco to  White  Sulphur  Springs,  Calistoga  Springs,  the  Petrified  Forest, 


the  Great  Geysers,  and  Skagg’s  Springs,  268  ; San  Francisco  to  Skagg’s 
Springs  and  the  Great  Geysers,  272  ; San  Francisco  to  the  Clear  Lake 
Hunting  Grounds,  274;  San  Francisco  to  San  Rafael  and  Mount  Tamiftpais, 

276  ; San  Francisco  to  Mount  Diablo,  275  ; San  Francisco  to  Warm 
Springs,  Alameda  County,  676  ; San  Francisco  to  San  Jose,  the  Santa 
Clara  Valley,  Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines,  Gilroy,  and  Los  Angeles,  276  ; 

Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego,  281 ; Los  Angeles  to  San  Bernardino,  281 ; San 
Francisco  to  Congress  Springs,  Santa  Cruz,  Monterey,  and  Pescadero, 

282 ; Sacramento  to  Marysville,  Chico,  Oregon  City,  and  Portland  (by  Rail 
and  Stage),  283 ; Sacramento  to  Marysville  (by  River  Steamer),  286 ; San 
Francisco  up  the  Coast  to  Portland,  Ogn.,  Puget  Sound,  Washington  Terri- 
tory, and  British  Columbia,  287  ; San  Francisco  to  the  Big  Trees  of  Cala- 
veras, and  to  the  Natural  Caves  and  Bridges,  289  ; Routes  to  the  Yosemite 
Valley  and  the  Big  Trees  of  Mariposa,  Tuolumne,  and  Calaveras,  290 ; 
Visit  to  the  High  Sierras,  and  Tour  around  the  Yosemite  Valley,  301. . . . 264 
OREGON. — Columbia  River  and  Willamette  River  Routes,  Cascades,  etc.,  304. . 303 
WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. — Trip  up  Puget  Sound  into  British  Columbia, 

307  \ 307 

ALASKA. — Trip  from  Victoria,  Vancouver’s  Island, ^to  Sitka,  Alaska ; Descrip- 
tion of  Sitka 308 

APPENDIX 311 


LIST  OF  MAPS. 


Map  of  States  east  of  the  Missouri  River face  title-page 

“ Chicago 7 

“ Cincinnati 31 

St.  Louis 40 

San  Francisco 121 

“ States  and  Territories  west  of  the  Missouri  River 227 

‘‘  Stage  and  Rail  Routes  to  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  Big  Trees  of  California  291 

The  Yosemite  Valley 296 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


GEAND  TimorGII-EOGTES  TO  THE  WEST. 


JJ  O JJTM  I. 

NEW  YORK  TO  CniCAGO. 

Via  Neto  Yorlc  Central  S Hudson  Rirer  Rail- 
way^ and  Great  Western  and  Michigan  Cen- 
tral Railways.  {Time.,  36  lirs. — Fare.,  $22.) 

Peingipal  Stations  between  New 
York  City  and  Detroit,  Michigan. — 
Yonkers,  15  miles;  Tarrytown,  26;  Sing 
Sing,  32  ; Peeks  kill,  42  ; Garrison’s 
(West  Point),  60 ; Pishkill,  59  ; Pough- 
keepsie, 73;  Hudson,  115;  Albany,  144; 
Schenectady,  161;  St.  Johnsville,  208  ; 
Little  Falls,  218  ; Utica,  239  ; Kome,  254; 
Syracuse,  292;  Kochester,  373;  Lock- 
port,  429  ; Suspension  Bridge,  448  ; St. 
Catharines,  Canada,  459  ; Hamilton,  480 ; 
Paris,  520;  Woodstock,  639;  London, 
567;  Windsor,  678. 

[Note. — detailed  description  of  as 
much  of  this  route  as  lies  between  New 
York  and  Detroit  has  been  given  in 
Appletons’  Hand-Book  op  American 
Travel — ^Northern  and  Eastern  Tour, 
to  which  we  refer  the  tourist  who  may 
desire  particular  information  in  regard 
to  watering-places,  cities,  summer  resorts, 
etc.  The  following  sketch  is  merely  a 
general  outline  of  the  route  between  New 
York  and  Detroit.] 

If  time  is  not  a matter  of  importance 
to  the  tourist,  the  trip  up  the  Hudson 
should  be  made  in  one  of  the  steamers 
of  the  Day  line,  from  which  both  sides 
of  the  river  can  be  seen,  whereas,  from 
the  cars,  only  the  western  bank  is  visible. 

1 


The  lower  Hudson,  emptying  into  the  Bay 
of  New  York,  is  like  a huge  arm  of  the 
sea,  and,  as  we  ascend,  preserves  its  no- 
ble width,  occasionally  expanding  into 
lakes,  until  the  Highlands  are  reached. 
Leaving  the  city  behind  us,  for  the  first 
twenty  miles  the  Palisades  rise  like  a ver- 
tical wall  on  the  west,  while  on  the  east 
hill  rises  above  hill,  dotted  with  palatial 
mansions.  Along  the  water’s  edge  are 
strung  a succession  of  beautiful  villages, 
filled  with  the  suburban  houses  of  New- 
York  business  men.  At  the  end  of  the 
Palisades  the  first  expansion  of  the  river 
known  as  Tappan  Bay  occurs,  the  width 
being  over  four  miles  and  the  length 
about  twelve.  Tarrytown,  immortalized 
by  Washington  Irving,  and  Sing  Sing,  the 
seat  of  one  of  the  State  Prisons,  are  upon 
its  eastern  border,  while  upon  the  west 
stands  Piermont,  the  original  terminus 
of  the  Erie  Kailway.  Croton  Point  di- 
vides this  bay  from  Haverstraw  Bay,  at 
the  upper  end  of  which  stands  Peekskill 
at  the  gate  to  the  “Highlands,”  as  the 
mountains  through  which  the  river  forces 
its  way  are  called.  Kising  on  either  side 
their  precipitous  acclivities  at  places 
spring  from  the  very  water’s  edge ; at 
others  a more  gentle  ascent  permits  the 
building  of  a village  or  a city,  every  suc- 
cessive street  being  higher  and  higher, 
and  every  house  being  in  plain  view.  In 
places  the  mountains  approach  so  near  as 
to  reduce  the  river  to  a contracted  chan- 
nel and  then  they  recede  so  as  to  allow 
I the  water  to  expand  into  a lake,  and  this 
1 


Pkincipal  Stations.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Detroit. 


very  peculiarity  constitutes  one  of  the 
principal  charms  of  the  Highland  region. 
As  we  go  northward  we  pass  in  succession 
the  beautiful  and  prosperous  cities  of 
PeekskiU,  Fishkill,  Newburg,  Pough- 
keepsie, and  Hudson  ; we  catch  a beauti- 
ful view  of  the  United  States  Military 
Academy  at  West  Point,  and  finally,  leav- 
ing all  behind  us,  pass  through  a more 
level  country  and  arrive  at  Albany,  where 
we  exchange  the  steamer  for  the  cars  of 
the  New  York  Central  Railway. 

From  Albany  to  Suspension  Bridge  the 
road  passes  through  the  richest  and  most 
densely  populated  portions  of  the  State, 
and  the  scenery  in  the  main  is  of  a pas- 
toral character,  there  being  no  mountains 
to  give  an  appearance  of  grandeur  to  the 
scene,  still  there  is  much  that  is  beauti- 
ful in  the  extreme.  The  famous  valley 
of  the  Mohawk  is  first  traversed.  The 
river,  now  quiet,  now  leaping  over  its 
rocky  bed,  is  continually  in  sight,  the 
hills  bounding  the  valley  adding  interest 
to  the  view,  and  the  many  villages  strung 
along  the  road  giving  evidence  of  solid 
prosperity.  Schenectady,  with  grand  old 
Union  College ; St.  Johnsville,  rich  and 
prosperous  ; Little  Falls,  with  its  charm- 
ing scenery ; Utica,  a large  and  wealthy 
city ; and  Rome,  another  prosperous  city, 
are  all  in  this  valley,  famous  as  the  scene 
of  many  thrilling  events  in  the  history  of 
the  country. 

Syracuse  is  the  next  city  of  importance 
on  the  line  of  the  road,  and  is  famed  for 
its  salt-wells,  and  for  being  the  place  at 
which  the  political  conventions  of  the 
State  are  usually  held.  Next  comes 
Rochester,  the  metropolis  of  Central  New 
York,  and  the  site  of  the  celebrated 
Genesee  Falls.  All  trains  stop  here, 
some  long  enough  to  allow  a glimpse  of 
the  falls,  in  which  case  the  opportunity 
should  be  improved.  At  Lockport,  the 
wonderful  system  of  locks,  by  which  the 
Erie  canal  descends  from  the  level  of  Lake 
Erie,  is  visible  from  the  car-windows. 

[All  these  places  have  been  described 
in  Appletons’  Hand-Book  op  American 
Travel — Northern  and  Eastern  Tour.] 

At  Suspension  Bridge  we  cross  the 
Niagara  River,  in  full  sight  of  the  falls, 
and  far  above  the  waters  rushing  toward 
the  whirlpool  below.  We  now  find  our- 
selves in  Canada,  at  the  eastern  end  of 
2 


the  Great  Western  Railway,  which  is, 
although  one  of  the  most  uninteresting, 
one  of  the  most  comfortable  roads  in 
the  country.  In  the  neighborhood  of  St. 
Catharines  and  Hamilton  there  is  some 
attractive  scenery,  but  with  these  excep- 
tions every  thing  is  dull,  flat,  and  un- 
attractive, and  the  traveler  will  be  glad, 
when,  emerging  from  a cut,  he  suddenly 
comes  upon  the  eastern  shore  of  the  De- 
troit River,  at  Windsor,  opposite  Detroit, 
Michigan,  when  our  tour  to  the  west 
properly  commences. 

MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 

Stations. — Detroit,  miles  from 

New  York  ; Grand  Trunk  Junction,  680 ; 
Dearborn,  687;  Wayne,  695  ; Denton’s, 
702;  Ypsilanti,  707  ; Ann  Arbor,  715 ; 
Dexter,  724 ; Chelsea,  732 ; Grass  Lake, 
743;  Jackson,  753;  Parma,  764;  Albion, 
773  ; Marshall,  785  ; White’s,  792;  Bat- 
tle Creek,  798 ; Galesburg,  812  ; Kala- 
mazoo, 821  ; Ostemo,  827  ; Mattawau, 
833  ; Lawton,  837 ; Decatur,  847  ; Dow- 
agiac,  856  ; Niles,  869  ; Buchanan,  875  ; 
Dayton,  879  ; Avery’s,  886  ; Three  Oaks, 
888  ; New  Buffalo,  896  ; Michigan  City, 
906  ; Porter,  918;  Lake,  926 ; Gibson’s, 
938;  Calumet,  947 ; Chicago,  961. 

The  Michigan  Central  Railway  (284 
miles  in  length)  runs  for  the  most  part 
through  a fine  agricultural  country,  but 
not  of  a striking  or  picturesque  charac- 
ter. In  many  places  it  passes  through 
dense  woods,  and  in  others  across  and 
along  the  winding  rivers  which  abundant- 
ly water  the  section  of  the  State  traversed 
by  the  road.  There  is  an  air  of  solid 
prosperity  along  the  whole  length  of  this 
line,  and  in  the  spring  and  summer  the 
general  aspect  of  the  country  is  attrac- 
tive and  pleasing. 

S^etroit,  Micli,  (677  miles),  is 
one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  the  country, 
having  been  founded  as  a French  mis- 
sionary station  in  the  year  1670.  It  is 
called  the  “ City  of  the  Straits  ” (which 
is  in  fact  a translation  of  its  name),  from 
its  situation  on  the  banks  of  the  Detroit 
River^  a noble  stream  or  rather  strait,  20 
miles  long,  connecting  Lakes  St.  Clair  and 
Erie,  and  affording  the  best  harbor  on  the 
whole  chain  of  the  “ Great  Lakes.”  This 
river  is  subject  to  no  material  change  of 


Detroit.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  I. 


[Detroit. 


level,  varies  in  width  from  one-half  to  one 
mile,  has  a current  of  from  three  to  four 
miles  an  hour,  and  is  noted  for  the  clear- 
ness and  purity  of  its  deep,  fish-teeming 
waters. 

The  city  extends  along  the  bank  of  the 
river  for  about  three  miles,  and  is  built 
up  for  about  two  and  a half  miles  from 
the  water.  For  a short  distance  from  the 
river-bank  it  rises  gradually,  and  then  be- 
comes perfectly  level.  The  streets  are 
wide,  and  generally  shaded  by  an  abun- 
dance of  trees ; the  stores  metropolitan 
in  size  and  appearance  ; the  churches  nu- 
merous, and  in  many  instances  very  b«au- 
tiful ; the  private  residences  in  the  best 
portions  of  the  city  surrounded  by  spa- 
cious grounds,  tastefully  ornamented  and 
filled  with  trees,  flowers,  and  shrubbery, 
and  the  sidewalks  broad  and  clean. 

The  city  is  laid  out  upon  two  plans, 
the  one,  that  of  a circle  with  avenues  ra- 
diating from  a centre  like  the  spokes  of  a 
wheel ; the  other,  that  of  streets  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles.  The  result 
has  been  a slight  degree  of  intricacy  in 
certain  localities,  which  inconvenience  is 
more  than  counterbalanced  by  a number 
of  little  triangular  parks  which  diversify 
and  ornament  the  place. 

Detroit  is  always  a pleasant  place  to 
visit,  and  its  citizens  are  notably  hospita- 
ble. In  summer  there  are  almost  daily 
pleasure  excursions,  and  the  noble  river 
furnishes  a never-failing  source  of  delight. 
The  owners  of  private  boats  and  yachts, 
and  the  numerous  boat  clubs,  are  organ- 
ized as  the  Detroit  River  Navy.  Several 
times  each  season  there  are  grand  reviews 
of  this  “Navy,”  when  two  or  three  hun- 
dred of  these  dainty  craft  form  in  line, 
and,  headed  by  a small  steamer,  with  a 
band,  pass  up  and  down  the  river  accom- 
panied by  steamers,  and  gazed  upon  by 
thousands  on  the  shores. 

Hotels. — The  three  leading  hotels  are 
the  Russell  Ho  use ^ Biddle  House^  and  Michu 
gan  Exchange^  which,  although  about 
equal  as  far  as  regards  the  “ table,”  are 
in  other  respects  to  be  estimated  in  the 
order  in  which  we  have  mentioned  them. 

The  Grand  Oirc?/sisthe  principal  park, 
and  from  it  radiate  the  avenues  previous- 
ly mentioned.  It  was  originally  intended 
to  be  a circle  traversed  by  two  avenues 
intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles. 


Only  half  of  this  design  was  ever  carried 
out,  and  the  park  consists  of  two  quad- 
rants, in  each  of  w^hich  is  a fountain. 
During  the  summer  season  there  is  music 
in  this  park  two  evenings  in  each  week. 
The  monument  in  memory  of  the  Michi- 
gan soldiers  who  fell  during  the  civil  war 
is  now  building  in  one  of  these  quadrants. 
Two  of  the  avenues  radiating  from  the 
Grand  Circus  are  laid  out  as  boulevards, 
and  all  are  very  beautiful.  Jefferson  and 
Woodward  Avenues  are  the  two  principal 
streets,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right 
angles.  West  Fori  Street  is  a broad  and 
beautiful  street,  lined  with  elegant  resi- 
dences, among  which  are  those  of  Senator 
Z.  Chandler,  Governor  Baldwin,  James  F. 
J oy,  the  railroad  magnate,  and  other  prom- 
inent men ; Lafayette  Avenue  is  another 
fashionable  street. 

The  Campus  Martins  is  a large  open 
space  through  which  passes  Woodward 
Avenue,  and  from  which  diverge  Michi- 
gan, Michigan-Grand,  and  Monroe  Ave- 
nues and  West  Fort  Street.  On  this  front 
the  Opera-House,  the  Russell  House,  and 
the  present  City  Hall,  while  upon  one  side 
is  the  new  City  Hall,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful in  the  country,  and  built  entirely  of 
Medina  stone.  The  stores  around  this 
plaza  are  fine  large  buildings,  and,  when 
the  old  City  Hall  is  destroyed,  the  place 
will  rank  architecturally  with  the  best  in 
the  country. 

The  Opera-House  is  an  elegant  struct- 
ure, and  both  in  size  and  beauty  is  only 
surpassed  by  some  five  or  six  in  the  Uni- 
ted States. 

The  Custom-House^  in  which  is  also  the 
FosU  Offce^  is  in  Griswold  Street,  the  W all 
Street  of  the  city.  It  is  a large  stone 
building  on  the  same  model  as  those  in 
Chicago,  Cleveland,  Toledo,  Milwaukee, 
and  many  other  cities,  in  which  large 
post-offices  have  recently  been  erected. 

The  Board  of  Trade  Building  is  anoth- 
er fine  edifice,  but  it  is  unfortunately  lo- 
cated on  Woodbridge  Street,  near  the 
river,  where  its  fine  proportions  cannot 
be  seen  to  advantage. 

The  Michigan  Central  Freight  Depot 
should  by  all  means  be  visited.  It  is 
1,250  feet  long,  102  feet  wide,  and  is  an 
immense  room,  without  partitions  or  pil- 
lars. It  is  covered  by  a self-supporting 
corrugated  iron  roof,  v/hich  is  considered 
3 


Detroit.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Detroit 


a marvel  of  mechanical  skill.  This  depot 
is  on  the  line  of  the  wharf,  which  is  also 
covered  by  an  iron  roof,  and  freight  and 
passengers  in  the  stormiest  weather  are 
transferred  from  boats  to  the  cars  with- 
out exposure  to  the  wet.  In  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  are  the  great  Wheat  Elevator 
of  the  company — from  the  cupola  of  which 
a superb  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and 
Lakes  St.  Clair  and  Erie,  may  be  had — the 
Round  House — in  which  16  locomotives 
stand  under  a dome,  second  only  to  that 
of  the  Capitol,  at  Washington — and  all 
the  great  workshops  of  the  Company. 

The  churches  of  Detroit  are  noted  for 
their  number  and  beauty.  The  following 
are  found  the  most  attractive  to  strangers : 
Bt.  PauVs  (Episcopal),  corner  of  Con- 
gress and  Shelby  Streets,  is  the  parent 
church  of  the  diocese,  and  is  noted  for 
its  beautiful  roof,  which  is  “ self-support- 
ing.” There  is  not  a pillar  in  the  church. 
Chrisfs  (Episcopal),  Jefferson  Avenue, 
above  Hastings  Street,  JSt.  JoluVs  (Epis- 
copal), Woodward  Avenue,  and  Grace^ 
(Episcopal),  Fort  Street,  are  all  elegant 
structures.  The  Fort  Street  Presbyterian 
Church,  corner  of  Third  Street,  has  the 
handsomest  front  of  any  church  in  the 
city.  The  First  Presbyterian^  State  Street, 
the  Jefferson  Avenue  Presbyterian^  above 
Rivard  Street,  and  the  First  Congrega- 
tional^ Fort  Street,  corner  of  Wayne 
Street,  are  all  handsome  churches.  The 
Central  Church  (Methodist  Episcopal) 
has  an  elaborately  decorated  interior.  It 
is  on  Woodward  Avenue,  above  the  Grand 
Circus,  near  St.  John’s.  St.  Anne's  (Ro- 
man Catholic),  Lamed  Street,  corner  of 
Bates  Street,  is  the  oldest  church  in  the 
city,  and  is  noted  for  its  fine  choir.  St. 
Peter  and  St.  PauVs  Cathedral  (Roman 
Catholic),  J efferson  Avenue,  corner  of  St. 
Antoine  Street,  is  the  largest  church  in 
the  State. 

The  Convent  of  the  Ladies  of  the  Sa- 
cred Hearty  on  Jefferson  Avenue,  near  St. 
Antoine  Street,  is  a large  and  very  beau- 
tiful building. 

The  House  of  Correction^  in  the  north- 
ern portion  of  the  city,  is  considered  one 
of  the  best  reformatory  prisons  in  the 
country.  Directly  opposite  to  the  House 
of  Correction  is  a Homo  for  discharged 
female  prisoners,  who  arc  received  here 
and  furnished  with  work  until  places  can 
4 


be  found  for  them,  out  of  the  reach  of 
the  evil  influences  formerly  surrounding 
them. 

Water-works. — Detroit  is  well  supplied 
with  river  water  by  the  Water-works, 
which  are  located  on  the  river  in  the  up- 
per portion  of  the  city.  The  water  is 
forced  over  a mile  through  immense  iron 
pipes  to  a reservoir,  near  the  House  of 
Correction,  whence  it  is  distributed  in 
the  usual  manner. 

The  school  system  of  Detroit  is  admi- 
rable, and  its  school-houses  are  noble 
buildings. 

Wie  manufacturing  interests  of  the 
city  are  large,  continually  increasing  in 
importance,  and  of  every  kind  and  de- 
scription. The  shipping  interest  is  also 
very  important,  while  pork  and  fish  pack- 
ing gives  employment  to  large  numbers 
of  men.  According  to  the  census  of  1870, 
Detroit  has  a population  of  79,619,  and 
is  the  eighteenth  city  in  size  in  the  Union. 

Elmwood  Cemetery  is  a very  beautiful 
place  within  the  city  limits,  and  is  reached 
by  street  cars. 

Woodlawn  Cemetery  is  below  the  city. 
It  is  of  recent  origin. 

Fort  Wayne  is  a bastioned  redoubt, 
about  three  miles  below  the  Michigan 
Central  Railway  Depot.  It  stands  upon 
the  bank  of  the  river,  completely  com- 
manding the  channel.  The  Fort  Street 
and  Elmwood  cars  run  within  half  a mile 
of  it,  and  it  is  also  a favorite  point  to 
which  rides  and  drives  are  taken. 

Belle  lle^  an  island  at  the  head  of  the 
river,  opposite  the  upper  limit  of  the  city, 
is  a favorite  resort  for  picnics,  etc. 

Grosse  He.,  18  miles  below  the  city,  is 
an  island  over  3 miles  long  and  1 mile 
wide,  and  is  a favorite  resort  of  the  weal- 
thier residents  of  Detroit,  many  of  whom 
have  beautiful  summer  residences  upon 
its  bold  shore,  overlooking  the  main  chan- 
nel of  the  river.  There  is  a hotel  upon 
the  island,  and  the  fishing,  boating,  and 
bathing,  are  excellent. 

Grosse  Polnte.,  a few  miles  above  the 
city,  is  a point  of  land  projecting  into 
Lake  St.  Clair.  It  is  noted  for  its  cherry- 
orchards,  and  is  the  terminus  of  a beau- 
tiful drive  over  a good  road.  Along  the 
shores  of  Lake  St.  Clair  are  a number  of 
summer  residences  of  gentlemen  doing 
business  in  the  city. 


[Parma, 


Put-in-Bat  Isl’s.]  new  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  I. 


— This  is 

a group  of  islands  in  Lake  Erie,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Detroit  River,  and  is  famous 
as  the  scene  of  Commodore  Perry’s  vic- 
tory, Septemher  10,  1813.  Within  the 
past  few  years  this  has  become  a favorite 
summer  resort,  as  it  combines  all  the  ad- 
vantages of  pure  air,  bathing,  fishing, 
boating,  and  convenience  of  access  from 
any  of  the  lake  cities.  From  Detroit 
there  is  a daily  steamer  to  Kelly’s  Island, 
the  largest  of  the  group.  The  hotel  ac- 
commodations are  good.  These  islands 
are  noted  for  their  vineyards,  and  the  su- 
perior quality  of  the  wine  produced. 

(687  miles)  is  a small 
village  on  the  river  Rouge^  10  miles  from 
Detroit.  Its  only  importance  consists  in 
its  being  the  site  of  a United  States  Ar- 
senal. 

'W'psilaEati  (707  miles)  is  a pleasant 
and  prosperous  place,  of  about  6,500  in- 
habitants. It  contains  many  handsome 
churches,  residences,  and  stores,  and  a 
fine  Union  School,  and  is  the  seat  of  the 
8tate  Normal  School.  The  Follet  House 
is  a capital  hotel.  Paper  is  very  exten- 
sively manufactured  here. 

From  Ypsilanti  to  Dexter  the  road  runs 
along  the  Huron  River,  which  it  crosses 
at  many  points. 

Ansa  Aa*l50i*  (715  miles)  is  a very 
pleasant  city,  of  about  9,000  inhabitants, 
though  nothing  of  it  is  seen  from  the  cars 
except  what  is  known  as  the  “Lower 
town,”  consisting  of  a few  mills  and  di- 
lapidated stores  and  dwellings.  The  city 
stands  upon  an  elevated  plateau  south  of 
the  depot,  is  regularly  laid  out,  in  many 
portions  is  handsomely  built,  and  contains 
several  elegant  churches.  In  the  centre 
of  the  city  is  a public  square  containing 
the  county  buildings,  which  are  old  and 
small.  The  Union  School  is  one  of  the 
finest  buildings  in  the  State. 

The  University  of  Michigan^  which  is 
located  in  Ann  Arbor,  is  one  of  the  no- 
blest institutions  in  the  land.  With  fees 
little  more  than  nominal,  and  with  a stand- 
ard of  scholarship  as  high  as  any  col- 
lege or  university  in  the  country,  it  num- 
bers among  its  students  natives  of  every 
part  of  the  globe.  The  three  colleges 
of  the  University  are  those  of  Law,  Medi- 
cine, and  Literature,  Science,  and  Art,  in 
till  of  which  are  large  and  efficient  corps 


of  professors.  The  university  buildings 
occupy  a square  of  ground,  each  front  of 
which  is  a quarter  of  a mile  in  length. 
There  are  no  dormitories,  all  the  space 
being  devoted  to  the  purposes  of  instruc- 
tion. The  library  is  large  and  constant- 
ly increasing ; the  geological  collection  is 
one  of  the  most  complete  in  the  country  ; 
the  art-gallery  contains  plaster  casts  and 
reductions  of  numbers  of  fine  pieces  of 
statuary,  as  well  as  the  original  “ Nydia  ” 
by  Rogers,  which  was  carved  especially 
for  this  institution ; and  the  medical  mu- 
seum is  very  complete.  The  grounds  are 
thickly  planted  with  trees,  a custom  hav- 
ing been  originated  by  the  class  of  1858 
for  every  graduate  in  the  literary  depart- 
ment to  set  out  a tree  with  his  own  hands. 
The  Observatory  is  one  of  the  prominent 
features  of  the  institution,  but  is  not  in 
the  same  group  with  the  other  buildings, 
being  located  on  a hill  about  a mile  dis- 
tant : the  instruments  are  large  and  very 
perfect.  The  total  number  of  graduates 
from  the  university  in  the  first  25  years 
of  its  existence  (1870)  was  2,476. 

The  last  two  weeks  in  June  are  those 
devoted  to  the  commencement  exercises, 
and  visitors  usually  select  this  time  as 
the  most  favorable  to  see  the  university. 

The  Gregory  Ilouse^  fronting  on  the 
public  square,  is  the  best  hotel  in  Ann 
Arbor. 

•Fsiclcsoii  (753  miles)  is  a city  of 
about  11,000  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of 
the  busiest,  prettiest,  and  most  important 
places  in  the  State.  It  has  large  manu- 
factories of  various  kinds,  and  contains 
the  Michigan  State  Prison.  It  is  upon 
the  edge  of  the  coal-measures  of  the 
State,  and  the  mines  can  be  seen  from  the 
railroad.  Its  geographical  position,  and 
the  enterprise  of  its  citizens  combined, 
have  made  it  a prominent  railroad  centre. 
The  Grand  River  Valley  Branch  Railway^ 
the  Jackson^  Lansing,  Saginaw  Railway, 
the  Jackson  Branch  of  the  Michigan 
Southern  Railway,  and  a road  through 
J onesville  on  the  Michigan  Southern  Rail- 
way to  Angola,  Ind.,  all  connect  at  this 
point.  Artesian  wells  are  bored  here 
without  difficulty,  and  the  Holley  Water- 
works are  now  being  put  in  order. 

(764  miles)  is  where  the 
road  reaches  the  Kalamazoo  River,  which 
it  follows  to  Kalamazoo,  passing  through 


Albion.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Chicago. 


a rich  and  beautiful  country  noted  for  its 
wheat.  In  the  harvest  season  the  whole 
country  for  miles  and  miles  looks  like  one 
golden  waving  sea,  while  the  river  con- 
stantly coming  into  view  adds  to  the 
beauty  of  the  picture. 

AlMoia.  (773  miles)  is  a flourishing 
village.  There  is  a small  collegiate  in- 
stitution here,  known  as  the  Albion  Col- 
lege, which  is  under  the  control  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 

Marslaall  (785  miles)  is  a flourish- 
ing city,  of  about  5,000  inhabitants,  being 
noted  for  its  beauty  and  the  fine  quality 
of  its  flour.  Paper  is  also  largely  manu- 
factured here.  The  Kalamazoo  River  fur- 
nishes a fine  water-power,  and  is  the 
source  of  the  prosperity  of  the  place. 
This  being  the  terminus  of  one  of  the 
divisions  of  the  road,  the  railway  com- 
pany has  erected  large  locomotive  and 
repair  shops,  and  a fine  eating-house, 
which,  from  the  superior  quality  of  a dish 
for  which  it  is  famous,  is  known  among 
travellers  as  the  Chicken-pie  House, 

The  best  hotel  is  the  Marshall  House, 

The  Union  School  building  at  this 
place  is  probably  the  most  costly  in  the 
State. 

liattSe  Creelc  (798  miles)  is  at 
the  mouth  of  the  creek  from  which  it 
takes  its  name,  and  which  is  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Kalamazoo  River.  It  is 
well  known  throughout  the  State  as  a 
milling  town,  and  is,  besides,  very  attrac- 
tive as  a place  of  residence.  Its  manu- 
factures are  numerous,  diversified,  and 
constantly  increasing.  Altogether  the 
place  is  one  of  great  thrift  and  beauty. 
The  population  is  about  6,500.  The  Pen- 
insular Railway  is  completed  from  this 
place  through  Charlotte,  in  Eaton  County, 
to  Lansing. 

Kalamazoo  (821  miles)  is  the 
largest  village  in  the  State.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  11,000,  and  is  built 
as  much  with  a view  to  beauty  as  to 
utility.  Its  streets  are  lined  with  trees, 
many  of  them  the  native  burr-oaks,  care- 
fully preserved,  and  the  many  elegant 
residences  with  which  it  abounds  are 
uniformly  surrounded  with  handsome 
grounds.  A college,  under  the  control 
of  the  Baptists,  and  an  excellent  Female 
Academy,  are  established  here,  and  this  is 
also  the  site  of  the  “State  Asylum  for 
6 


the  Insane.”  This  institution  is  admi- 
rably managed.  The  buildings  are  con- 
structed at  large  expense,  and  possess 
considerable  architectural  beauty.  The 
Ilolley  Water-works  supply  the  town  with 
water.  The  leading  hotels  are  the  Bur- 
dick House  and  Kalamazoo  House,  The 
Kalamazoo^  Allegan^  Grand  Rapids 
Railway^  running  from  Grand  Rapids  to 
this  place,  connects  here  with  the  St.  Jo- 
seph Valley  Railway^  extending  from  here 
to  White  Pigeon,  on  the  Lake  Shore  and 
Michigan  Southern  Railway.  A section 
of  a railroad  from  this  place  to  South 
Haven,  on  Lake  Michigan,  is  also  in  oper- 
ation. 

(837  miles)  is  a small  vil- 
lage, important  on  account  of  the  exten- 
sive iron-works  recently  erected,  and 
which  are  under  charge  of  General  Q. 
A.  Gillmore,  who  performed  such  excel- 
lent service  during  the  late  war. 

Nllessi  (861  miles)  is  where  the  rail- 
way crosses  the  St.  Joseph’s  River.  It 
is  a place  of  considerable  importance, 
being  the  commercial  centre  of  this  sec- 
tion of  the  State.  This  is  a pleasant 
place  to  stop  at,  the  drives  in  the  city 
being  attractive,  and  the  residents  very 
hospitable.  Population  about  5,000.  The 
Michigan  Air-Line  Railroad  is  nearly 
completed  from  Jackson  through  Three 
Rivers  to  this  place. 

New  SSu-lTalo  is  a small  village, 
important  as  the  point  of  junction  of  the 
new  railroad  extending  north  along  the 
eastern  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  with  the 
Michigan  Central.  The  road  is  completed 
to  St.  Joseph,  which  brings  it  to  the 
heart  of  the  famous  fruit  region  of  Michi- 
gan. 

City,  Si&ci*  (906 
miles),  is  of  some  importance  as  being 
the  terminus  of  one  of  the  divisions  of 
the  road,  and  consequently  the  location 
of  repair  and  locomotive  shops.  It  is 
the  site  of  the  Northern  Penitentiary  of 
Indiana. 

CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS. 

Chicago  (963  miles)  has  within  forty 
years  grown  from  a small  Indian  trading 
post  to  the  position  of  the  metropolis  of 
the  Northwest,  and  the  greatest  railway 
centre  on  the  continent.  It  is  situated 


HnrlngsiBroi 

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Indiana] 


Mich  i^an  Avenue. 


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Chicago.]  NEW  YORK  TO  Cl 

on  the  western  shore  of  Lake  Michigan, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Chicago  River.  By 
means  of  the  latter,  and  the  Illinois  and 
Michigan  Canal,  it  has  continuous  com- 
munication with  the  Mississippi  River 
and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  on  the  south  and 
west,  and  with  the  chain  of  the  Great 
Lakes,  the  St,  Lawrence,  and  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean,  on  the  east.  Probably  no  in- 
land city  in  the  world  possesses  greater 
facilities  for  commercial  intercourse,  ^ 

The  history  of  the  city,  though  brief, 
is  interesting,  not  only  on^  account  of 
the  romantic  incidents  of  its  early  dis- 
covery and  occupation,  but  as  furnish- 
ing one  of  the  most,  perhaps  the  most, 
remarkable  instance  on  record  of  rapid, 
sustained,  and  permanent  growth. 

The  first  visitors  to  the  site  of  the 
present  city  were  Joliet  (Louis)  and  Mar- 
quette (Jacques),  who  arrived  August, 
le'TS,  Point  au  Sable,  a native  of  St. 
Domingo,  followed  in  1796,  but  soon 
afterward  removed  to  Peoria.  The  first 
permanent  settlement  was  made  in  1804, 
by  Mr.  John  Kinzie,  who  moved  hither 
from  St.  Joseph,  at  that  time  a mission- 
ary station  on  the  east  side  of  Lake 
Michigan.  On  April  7 and  August  12, 
1812,  the  Indian  massacre  occurred  at 
Fort  Dearborn,  which  resulted  so  disas- 
trously to  the  little  garrison. 

At  the  close  of  1830,  Chicago  con- 
tained twelve  houses  and  three  suburban 
(“  country”)  residences  on  Madison  Street, 
with  a population,  composed  of  whites, 
half-breeds,  and  blacks,  numbering  about 
100.  The  first  map  of  the  town,  as  sur- 
veyed by  James  Thompson,  bears  date 
V August  4,  1830. 

Fort  Dearborn  was  constructed  m 
1804,  rebuilt  in  1816,  and  pulled  down 
in  1857.  It  stood  near  the  head  of  Michi- 
gan Avenue,  below  its  intersection  with 
Lake  Street,  and  a little  ^ north  of  the 
present  Marine  Hospital  building. 

The  town  was  organized  August  10, 
1833,  incorporated  as  a city  March  4, 
1837,  and  the  first  election  held  May  1, 
1837.  The  first  vessel  entered  the  har- 
bor June  11,  1834;  and  at  the  official 
census,  taken  July  1,  1837,  the  entire 
population  was  found  to  be  4,170.  Out- 
side of  Fort  Dearborn,  in  1833,  were 
about  35  houses,  mostly  built  of  logs. 
The  first  frame  building  was  erected  in 


[ICAGO,  ROUTE  I.  [Chicago. 

1832,  by  George  W.  Dole,  and  the  first 
brick  house  in  1833.  It  was  standing 
on  Monroe  Street,  near  Clarke,  at  a re- 
cent period.  In  1843  the  population  of 
the  city  had  increased  to  7,580  ; in  1847 
to  16,859  ; in  1850  to  28,269  ; in  1855  to 
80,023;  in  1860  to  109,263,  and  in  1865 
to  178,539.  Its  present  population,  city 
and  suburban,  is  more  than  450,000.  The 
census  of  1870  gave  the  population  of  the 
city  proper  as  299,370. 

During  the  years  18o6— ’58  the  entire 
business  portion  of  the  city  was  raised 
from  three  to  eight  feet  above  its  former 
level,  which  has  facilitated  drainage,  and 
greatly  improved  its  sanitary  condition 
as  well  as  its  commercial  facilities. 

The  site  of  the  city  is  at  present  a 
gently-inclined  plane,  the  ground  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city,  three  miles  from 
the  lake,  being  from  15  to  18  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lake.  The  streets  are 
generally  80  feet  wide,  and  regularly 
built.  They  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  are  for  the  most  part  paved 
with  stone  or  with  wooden  pave- 
ment. Many  of  them  are  from  three  to 
seven  miles  in  length.  The  Chicago 
River,  and  its  two  branches,  run  through 
the  city,  dividing  it  into  three  unequal 
divisions,  known  as  North,  South,  and 
West  Chicago.  Numerous  bridges  and 
tunnels  connect  the  main  avenues  of 
travel  leading  from  the  city  proper  to  the 
Northern  and  Western  Divisions.  These 
divisions  are  subdivided  into  20  wards, 
and  contain  1,100  streets,  avenues,  and 
alleys.  The  river  and  ship  canals  afford 
a harbor  for  the  largest  vessels  for  more 
than  ten  miles,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
first  of  which  is  a new  iron  light-house. 
State  Street  is  the  Broadway  of  Chicago ; 
while  Michigan  Avenue,  Wabash  Avenue, 
Prairie  Avenue,  South  Park  Avenue, 
West  Washington  Street,  and  North 
Dearborn  Street,  are  distinguished  by 
princely  edifices,  and  adorned  with  rows 
of  luxuriant  trees.  On  South  Water 
Street  were  situated  warehouses  and  the 
large  wholesale  stores,  while  many  of  the 
largest  and  most  elegant  of  the  latter  are 
now  located  on  Michigan  and  Wabash 
Avenues,  making  a gradual  inroad  upon 
a favorite  residence  locality.  Many  of 
the  private  residences  on  the  north  and 
west  side  of  the  river  are  handsomely 


CniCAGO  ] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[CniCAGO. 


built,  and  surrounded  by  liigtily-ornament- 
ed  or  cultivated  grounds, 

Chicago  is  the  greatest  primary  grain- 
market  in  the  world.  The  first  shipment, 
consisting  of  78  bushels  of  wheat,  took 
place  in  1838.  In  1863  the  exports  of 
grain  exceeded  fifty-four  million  bushels, 
in  1865  about  the  same  amount  was 
shipped,  and  in  1872  the  grain  receipts 
were  nearly  eighty -nine  ynillion  bushels. 
In  1865  nearly  six  hundred  and  fifty  mill- 
ion feet  of  lumber  were  received,  and  in 
1869  there  were  1,183,659,283  feet  of 
lumber,  besides  900,000,000  pieces  of 
laths  and  shingles  received.  It  is  prob- 
ably the  greatest  stock-market  in  the 
world,  as  the  following  statistics  (the 
latest  we  have  at  hand)  will  show : Re- 
ceipts in  1872 — cattle,  684,075  ; hogs, 
3,488,528 ; sheep,  over  300,000.  The 
provision-trade  is  also  very  extensive  and 
prosperous;  the  enormous  number  of 
1,425,079  hogs  was  packed  in  the  win- 
ter of  1 872-’ 73.  To  those  who  would 
carry  away  with  them  a just  estimate  of 
the  greatness  of  Chicago,  a visit  to  the 
extensive  grain  elevators,  cattle  and  lum- 
ber yards,  and  packing-houses,  is  neces- 
sary. 

Chicago  has  been  the  arena  of  one  of 
the  most  terrific  and  destructive  confla- 
grations of  modern  times.  The  summer 
of  1871  was  unprecedentedly  dry,  and 
many  fires  of  greater  or  less  extent 
throughout  the  Northwest  had  given 
ominous  warning  of  the  fate  in  store  for 
any  large  city  caught  napping.  In  Chi- 
cago itself  there  had  been  several  unusu- 
ally destructive  fires  on  previous  days, 
tiring  the  firemen  and  disorganizing  the 
department ; and  finally,  on  the  evening 
of  Sunday,  the  8th  of  October,  the  main 
conflagration  commenced,  having  its  ori- 
gin in  a small  wooden  barn  on  De  Ko- 
ven  Street,  in  the  Western  District  of  the 
city.  The  buildings  in  that  quarter 
were  mostly  of  wood,  and  there  were 
several  lumber-yards  along  the  margin 
of  the  river.  Through  these  the  flames 
swept  with  incredible  fury,  and  were 
carried  across  the  stream  by  the  strong 
westerly  wind  which  was  prevailing  at 
the  time.  From  the  river  they  sv/ept  up 
into  the  Southern  Division,  which  was 
closely  built  up  with  stores,  warehouses, 
and  public  buildings  of  stone,  brick,  and 
8 


iron,  many  of  which  were  supposed  to 
be  fire-proof.  The  fire  raged  all  day  on 
Monday,  the  9th,  and  crossed  the  main 
channel  of  the  Chicago  River,  consuming 
all  before  it  in  the  Northern  District, 
which  was  occupied  mostly  by  dwelling- 
houses.  From  the  very  start  the  fire  had 
been  completely  beyond  the  control  of 
any  human  agency,  and  it  was  only  on 
Monday  evening  that  a great  storm 
drenched  the  city  and  put  an  end  to  the 
progress  of  the  flames. 

In  the  Western  Division,  where  the  fire 
originated,  about  194  acres  of  buildings 
were  destroyed,  including  sixteen  acres 
swept  by  the  fire  of  Saturday  evening, 
October  7th.  This  section  contained, 
besides  several  lumber-yards  and  plan- 
ing-mills,  and  numerous  wooden  struct- 
ures of  an  inferior  sort,  the  Union  Depot 
of  the  St.  Louis  and  the  Pittsburg  & 
Fort  Wayne  Railroads.  Five  hundred 
buildings  were  destroyed  in  all,  and 
2,250  persons  rendered  homeless.  In 
the  Southern  Division  the  burnt  district 
comprised  about  460  acres.  It  extended 
from  a line  running  diagonally  from  the 
corner  of  Michigan  Avenue  and  Congress 
Street,  southwest  to  the  intersection  of 
Fifth  Avenue  and  Polk  Street,  up  to  the 
main  channel  of  the  river  on  the  north, 
and  filled  the  whole  space  between  the 
southern  branch  of  the  river  to  the  lake, 
only  one  block  remaining  unburnt  in  all 
that  area.  This  district  contained  the 
greater  part  of  the  most  expensive  struct- 
ures in  the  city — all  the  wholesale  stores, 
all  the  newspaper  offices,  all  the  princi- 
pal banks,  and  insurance  and  law  offices, 
many  coal-yards,  nearly  all  the  hotels, 
and  many  of  the  factories,  the  court- 
house, custom-house.  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce, and  other  public  buildings.  Many 
of  the  finest  churches  in  the  city  were 
consumed,  among  them  that  of  the  Rev. 
Robert  Collyer,  who  made  heroic  but 
unavailing  efforts  to  save  it.  The  num- 
ber of  buildings  destroyed  in  this  divis- 
ion was  about  3,650,  which  included  28 
hotels  and  upward  of  1,600  stores  and 
manufacturing  establishments.  About 
22,000  persons  were  rendered  homeless. 
In  the  Northern  Division  the  devastation 
was  most  wdde-spread,  more  than  one- 
half  the  entire  area  in  that  section  being 
burned  over.  Of  the  13,800  buildings  in 


Chicago.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  I. 


[Chicago- 


that  whole  district  not  more  than  500 
were  left  standing,  leaving  13,300  in  ash- 
es, and  rendering  '74,450  persons  home- 
less. That  part  of  Chicago  next  the  lake, 
as  far  north  as  Chicago  Avenue,  was  oc- 
cupied by  first-class  private  residences, 
of  which  only  one  was  left  standing. 

The  total  area  burned  over  in  the  city, 
including  streets,  was  very  nearly  3^ 
square  miles.  ‘ The  number  of  buildings 
destroyed  was  17,460,  and  the  number  of 
persons  rendered  homeless  was  98,500. 
Of  the  latter,  upward  of  250  are  said  to 
have  lost  their  lives. 

Not  including  depreciation  in  real  es- 
tate, and  loss  of  business  occasioned  by 
the  fire,  the  grand  total  of  pecuniary 
damage  has  been  estimated  at  $190,000,- 
000.  There  was  insurance  on  this  to  the 
amount  of  $100,000,000,  of  which  hardly 
$45,000,000  was  collected — the  first  re- 
sult of  the  fire  being  to  bankrupt  many 
of  the  insurance  companies  all  over  the 
country. 

Those  who  had  built  up  Chicago,  how- 
ever, and  made  her  one  of  the  great 
commercial  centres  of  the  world,  were  not 
people  to  be  crushed  even  by  such  a blow. 

Between  Saturday  evening  and  Tues- 
day morning  upvmrd  of  two  hundred  mill- 
ion dollars’  worth  of  property  had  been  de- 
stroyed, merchants  and  millionnaires  were 
being  fed  on  government  rations,  but,  on 
Wednesday,  five  of  the  leading  daily  news- 
papers were  published,  and  hundreds  of 
merchants  announced  their  whereabouts. 
The  business-men  held  meetings,  and  re- 
solved to  ask  no  compromises  of  credit- 
ors, and  devised  means  for  the  rebuilding 
of  their  stores,  and  the  resumption  of 
business.  This  indomitable  spirit  has 
been  displayed  ever  since,  and  bids  fair 
to  turn  disaster  into  triumph.  A new 
Chicago  has  risen  on  the  ruins  of  the  old, 
grander,  more  magnificent,  and  more  ex- 
tensive ; and,  with  one-fourth  of  the  city 
ill  ashes,  the  business  of  the  year  suc- 
ceeding the  catastrophe  was  greater  than 
ever  before  in  a similar  period. 

Of  what  was  done  by  way  of  recon- 
structing the  city  during  that  year,  we 
can  give  no  better  account  than  by  copy- 
ing an  article  from  the  Chicago  Tribune^ 
which,  under  the  head  of  ‘‘A  Year’s 
AYork,”  says : 

“We  know  of  no  words  which  will 


convey  to  persons  residing  outside  of 
Chicago  an  idea  of  what  has  been  done 
in  the  way  of  rebuilding  the  city,  than  to 
say  that,  beginning  on  April  15,  1872, 
and  ending  December  1,  1872,  excluding 
Sundays,  counting  200  working-days,  and 
each  day  of  eight  hours,  there  will  be 
completed  one  brick,  stone,  or  iron  build- 
ing, 25  feet  front,  and  from  four  to  six 
stories  high,  for  each  hour  of  that  time. 
In  other  words,  the  buildings  of  that  size 
and  character  completed,  and  that  will  be 
completed  by  December  1st,  will  average 
one  for  each  60  minutes  of  200  days  of 
eight  hours  each. 

“ This  estimate,  which  will  fall  below 
the  actual  fact,  does  not  include  the  many 
stone,  brick,  iron,  and  wooden  buildings 
built  outside  of  the  burned  district,  and 
which  alone  equal  the  ordinary  new  build- 
ings put  up  in  Chicago  annually.  There 
is  no  precedent  in  the  world’s  history  of 
such  a growth ; no  precedent  of  such 
energy  and  bravery  by  a people  who, 
within  the  year,  had  seen  $200,000,000 
of  their  property  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
statement  will  sound  extraordinary  that, 
for  seven  months  in  1872 — beginning  the 
first  day  the  frost  was  out  of  the  ground 
— there  was  built  and  completed  in  the 
burnt  district  of  Chicago  a brick,  stone, 
or  iron  warehouse  every  hour  of  each 
working-day  in  that  time.  . . . 

“ This  vast  labor  has  not  been  without 
an  increase  in  the  business  of  all  the  great 
transportation  companies  tributary  to  the 
city.  Nor  has  all  this  been  accomplished 
without  a corresponding  increase  of  popu- 
lation. In  June,  1870,  the  Federal  census 
gave  us  a population  of  299,227,  and  a 
year  later  the  directory  census  gave  us 
334,270.  When  it  is  remembered  all  that 
has  been  done  in  Chicago  since  January 
last,  and  the  increase  of  trade  in  every 
branch  of  industry,  it  will  not  surprise 
any  person  to  know  that  our  population, 
to-day,  is  at  least  400,000,  a part  of  which, 
however,  is  probably  transient.” 

The  commerce  of  the  city  in  1872  ag- 
gregated fully  $450,000,000,  and  some 
$45,000,000  was  expended  in  rebuilding ; 
most  of  the  burned  district  being  covered 
with  structures  more  handsome  and  dura- 
ble than  those  destroyed.  The  sum  of 
$10,000,000  additional  has  been  expended 
to  date  (August,  1873),  in  the  erection  of 
9 


Hotels,  etc.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[CnuRcnES,  etc. 


additional  buildings.  The  population  in 
May  last,  as  given  by  the  directory  can- 
vassers, was  465,170. 

HOTELS. 

Chicago  was  always  noted  for  the  ex- 
tent and  perfection  of  her  hotel  accom- 
modations. Since  the  fire  the  hotel  sys- 
tem has  been  entirely  reconstructed,  cov- 
ering a much  greater  area,  but  not  mate- 
rially increasing  the  number  of  rooms  at 
the  disposal  of  guests,  the  most  particular 
attention  having  been  paid  to  making 
provision  for  comfort  and  convenience. 
About  20  hotels  have  been  erected,  at 
a total  cost  of  $8,500,000,  and  the 
furnishing  will  swell  the  aggregate  to 
$10,000,000.  The  leading  hotels  are 
Palmer's  (not  quite  finished),  the  Pa- 
cific^ Sherman^  Tremont^  Briggs^  Gardner^ 
Matteson^  Commercial^  and  Clifton^  all  of 
which  are  luxuriously  appointed.  There 
are  also  several  very  good  hotels  con- 
ducted on  the  European  plan,  prominent 
among  v/hich  are  Burke's  and  KuhrCs, 

THEATRES,  ETC. 

The  city  is  well  provided  with  places 
of  amusement.  Me  Vicker^s  Theatre^  near 
the  corner  of  State  and  Madison  Streets, 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country ; and  in 
appointments  and  company  will  compare 
favorably  with  any  in  New  York.  Hoo- 
ley's^  just  west  of  the  Sherman  House,  is 
also  a beautiful  theatre.  These  two  have 
been  rebuilt  since  the  fire.  Aikeii’s  The- 
atre^ on  Wabash  Avenue  and  Congress 
Street,  and  Mger's  Opera-House  (min- 
strel), on  Monroe  Street  near  State,  are 
new.  The  Academy  of  Music^  on  Hal- 
stead Street  near  Madison,  was  built  in 
eight  weeks  after  the  fire,  and  has  re- 
cently been  enlarged  and  otherwise  im- 
proved. The  Globe  Theatre^  on  Hes- 
plaines  Street  near  Madison,  hitherto 
devoted  to  the  vaudeville  class  of  enter- 
tainments, is  now  devoted  to  legitimate 
drama,  and  has  a good  company.  The 
far-famed  Opera-House  (Crosby’s)  and  the 
Museum  (Wood’s)  have  not  been  rebuilt. 

CnUROIIES. 

A great  number  of  church  structures 
were  destroyed  in  the  fire,  but  most  of 

10 


them  have  been  rebuilt,  though  many  of 
them  have  made  a change  of  site  farther 
away  from  the  business  centre.  The  di- 
rectory gives  a present  list  of  212,  which 
includes  25  missions.  Of  the  187  churches, 
20  are  Baptist,  17  Congregational,  18  Epis- 
copal, 26  Evangelical  and  Lutheran,  5 
Jewish,  25  Methodist,  21  Presbyterian, 
27  Catholic,  4 New  Jerusalem,  5 Unitari- 
an, and  3 Universalist.  In  no  other 
large  city  in  the  country,  probably,  are 
the  leading  denominations  so  nearly  equal 
in  strength,  or  better  represented  by  their 
pulpit  eloquence.  Particular  attention  is 
paid  in  most  of  the  churches  to  the  char- 
acter and  quality  of  the  music. 

OTHER  BUILDINGS. 

The  Chamber  of  Commerce  was  re- 
built on  the  old  site  on  Washington 
Street,  opposite  the  Court-House  Square, 
and  is  a building  not  unlike  the  old  one, 
though  the  stories  are  higher  and  the 
decorations  much  finer  than  before.  The 
Board  of  Trade  has  a membership  of 
about  1,400,  and  the  tourist  will  find  it 
interesting  to  visit  the  ladies’  gallery 
during  the  daily  session,  from  11  to  1 
o’clock;  or  any  gentleman  may  obtain 
admission  to  the  floor  if  introduced  by  a 
member. 

The  old  Custom-House^  on  Dearborn 
and  Monroe  Streets,  only  the  walls  of 
which  were  left  standing,  has  been  sold 
to  the  city,  and  is  now  being  fitted  up  as 
a public  library,  the  nucleus  for  which 
Avas  furnished  by  donations  of  books 
from  Great  Britain  and  by  Eastern  pub- 
lishers. The  collection  now  comprises 
about  8,000  volumes,  but  a large  number 
will  be  added  by  purchase  as  soon  as  the 
building  is  made  ready  to  receive  them. 
The  government  has  secured  a large  block 
a little  south  of  the  old  site,  and  the  erec- 
tion of  one  of  the  largest  and  finest 
buildings  in  the  country  is  now  in  prog- 
ress. It  will  cost  more  than  $3,000,000, 
and  will  be  used  as  a post-office  as  well 
as  a custom-house,  containing  also  rooms 
for  the  United  States  courts  of  the  dis- 
trict. 

The  Court-House  Square  is  still  vacant, 
except  that  a small  portion  of  the  old 
building  still  stands  on  the  eastern  side. 
A new  structure,  very  much  superior  to 
the  old  one,  will  be  commenced  shortly. 


Newspapers.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  I. 


[Parks,  etc. 


NEWSPAPERS,  ETC. 

There  are  about  80  publications  in  the 
city  claiming  to  be  classed  under  the 
head  of  newspapers.  The  daily  press, 
proper,  has  a circulation  of  98,000,  and 
is  widely  celebrated  for  its  enterprise 
and  ability.  The  leading  papers  are  the 
Tribune^  Times^  Inter  - Ocean^  Evening 
Journal^  Evening  Post^  and  Staats  Zeitung 
(German),  each  of  which  is  issued  from  a 
fine  building.  It  is  worthy  of  note  that 
the  Tribune  building,  erected  but  a short 
time  before  the  “great  conflagration” 
was  believed  to  be  so  thoroughly  fire- 
proof that  it  was  not  insured  against  the 
disaster ; but  it  shared  the  common  fate, 
and  was  replaced  by  a more  handsome 
and  larger  building  of  brown-stone. 

The  passenger-depots  have  all  been  re- 
stored. Two  of  these  are  very  imposing 
stone  structures  : the  Central  Depots  at  the 
foot  of  Lake  Street,  which  forms  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Illinois  Central,  Michigan 
Central,  and  Burlington  k Quincy  Rail- 
roads ; and  the  Union  Depot  on  Yan  Bu- 
ren  Street,  half  a mile  west  from  the  lake, 
forming  the  terminus  of  the  Rock  Island, 
and  of  the  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  South- 
ern Railroads. 

CONVEYANCES. 

Carriages  are  always  to  be  found  at 
the  railway-stations  and  steamboat-land- 
ings, as  well  as  at  the  hotels,  livery-sta- 
bles, and  at  the  Court-House  Square,  the 
rates  of  fare  being  established  by  law, 
and  cards  stating  the  law  being  kept  by 
every  driver,  which  must  be  shown  on 
demand.  As  is  now  customary  in  all 
American  cities,  there  are  lines  of  omni- 
buses connecting  with  all  trains,  by  which 
passengers  and  their  luggage  are  taken  to 
any  part  of  the  city  at  reasonable  rates. 

There  are  also  lines  of  omnibuses  run- 
ning south  on  Wabash  Avenue,  west  on 
Washington  and  Adams  Streets,  and 
north  to  Lincoln  Park. 

Horse  Street  Railways^  which  were  first 
introduced  in  1858-’59,  furnish  the  most 
ready  means  of  visiting  the  different  parts 
of  the  city.  There  are  fourteen  lines, 
running  in  the  three  divisions  of  the  city, 
as  follows : the  South  Division,  five  lines, 
viz.,  the  Cottage  Grove,  Indiana  Avenue, 


Archer  Avenue,  State  Street  to  the  Stoek- 
Yards,  and  a steam-dummy  through  the 
South  Park  to  Hyde  Park  ; in  the  West 
Division,  six  lines,  viz.,  Randolph  Street, 
Madison  Street,  Milwaukee  Avenue,  Hal- 
sted  and  Blue  Island  Avenue,  Yan  Buren 
Street,  and  Clinton  Street ; and  in  the 
North  Division  four  lines,  viz.,  to  city 
limits,  Chicago  Avenue,  Sedgwick  Street, 
and  Clybourne  Avenue. 

BRIDGES. 

The  fact  that  the  city  is  divided  into 
three  sections  by  the  Chicago  River  has 
necessitated  the  building  of  numerous 
bridges  to  facilitate  intercommunication. 
These  are  all  draw-bridges,  and  are  a 
great  obstacle  alike  to  vessels,  steamers, 
riders,  drivers,  and  pedestrians.  To  ves- 
sels and  steamers,  when  closed,  they  are 
an  insuperable  barrier,  and  when  open 
they  are  the  means  of  stopping  all  cross- 
ing of  the  river.  To  obviate  this  diffi- 
culty, it  was  determined  to  construct 

TUNNELS 

under  the  river. 

The  first  river-tunnel  constructed  in 
this  country  was  commenced  at  Washing- 
ton Street,  in  Chicago,  in  July,  1867,  and 
completed  in  December,  1868,  at  a cost 
of  about  |400,000.  The  length  of  the 
footway  from  end  to  end  is  810  feet;  but 
the  whole  length  of  the  roadway  is  three- 
tenths  of  a mile.  The  diameter  of  the 
tunnel  is  19^  feet  at  the  entrance,  and  in- 
creases to  23^,  150  feet  from  the  river 
centre.  There  are  ventilation-shafts  110 
feet  from  the  entrance,  and  lights  at  in- 
tervals of  40  or  50  feet.  There  is  a dou- 
ble carriage-way  throughout  the  struct- 
ure, each  road-way  being  11  feet  wide 
and  15  feet  high.  It  is  now  contemplated 
to  substitute  tunnels  for  bridges  at  many 
points  along  the  river,  but  only  one  other 
has  yet  been  built : it  connects  the  North 
and  South  Divisions,  on  the  line  of  La- 
salle  Street. 

PARKS  AND  BOULE YARDS. 

Chicago  has  a most  liberal  area  of  free 
pleasure-grounds,  most  of  which  are  al- 
ready improved.  In  1869  the  Legislature 
authorized  a grand  system  of  parks  and 

11 


Parks,  etc.] 


WESTERlSr  TOUR. 


[Lake-Tuknels. 


boulevards,  which,  when  completed,  will 
have  no  superior  in  the  world.  It  con- 
sists of  a broad  drive,  two  miles  in  length, 
along  the  northern  lake-shore  to  Lincoln 
Lark^  of  230  acres,  very  finely  laid  out. 
Thence  a drive,  three  and  a half  miles 
long,  due  west,  connects  with  a boulevard 
seven  miles  long,  from  north  to  south,  on 
which  lie  three  parks:  viz.,  Humboldt^ 
Central^  and  Douglas^  containing,  in  the 
aggregate,  536  acres.  These  are  only 
partially  improved,  but  will  well  repay  a 
visit.  From  the  southern  end  of  this 
boulevard  another  extends  eastward  to 
the  two  South  Parks^  containing  about 
1,000  acres,  which  are  laid  out  with  good 
taste,  and  are  very  attractive ; the  most 
southerly  extends  1-piy  mile  along  the 
shore  of  the  lake.  Two  boulevards  run 
thence,  northward,  to  the  well-paved 
streets  that  connect  with  the  business 
portion  of  the  city.  The  parks  and 
boulevards  contain  fully  33  miles  of 
drives,  without  counting  the  road-ways 
around  the  parks. 

Lincoln  Park^  on  the  lake-shore,  in 
the  North  Division,  has  already  about 
four  miles  of  drives  in  its  enclosure, 
splendid  trees,  artificial  hills  and  mounds, 
miniature  lakes  and  rivers,  summer- 
houses, rustic  bridges  and  seats,  shady 
walks,  and  all  the  attractions  that  natu- 
ral and  artificial  charms  could  give  it. 
On  Saturday  afternoons,  in  summer,  w^hen 
a large  orchestra  gives  open-air  concerts 
there,  the  scene  is  one  of  indescribable 
life  and  brilliancy,  the  road-w'ays  crowded 
with  carriages,  and  the  paths  thronged 
with  people.  Lincoln  Park  is  readily 
accessible  by  the  horse-cars,  the  stages, 
and  along  the  splendid  Nicolson  drives. 

Union  Park  is  located  in  the  very  cen- 
tre of  the  residence  portion  of  the  West 
Division  ; it  is  equally  accessible  by  the 
Madison  and  Randolph  Street  cars,  by 
the  Washington-Strect  stages,  or  can  be 
reached  on  foot  without  fatigue.  Though 
only  17  acres  in  area,  the  judicious  ex- 
penditure of  $100,000  on  lakes,  drives, 
hills,  pagodas,  inner  parks,  zoological 
gardens,  and  admirable  landscape  archi- 
tecture, has  rendered  its  size  apparently 
much  greater.  There  arc  open-air  con- 
certs here  every  Wednesday  evening  in 
summer,  when  it  is  even  more  crowded 
than  Lincoln  Park. 

12 


Lake  Park^  on  the  south  side,  running 
about  a mile  on  the  lake-shore,  is  unim- 
proved itself,  though  ornamented  by  the 
elegant  Michigan-Avenue  residences,  and 
is  a favorite  resort  of  summer  evenings, 
and  especially  on  Saturday  evenings, 
when  the  band  plays. 

There  are  also  Dearborn  Park^  Jeffer- 
son Park^  Groveland  Park^  and  Ogden 
Park^  and  many  smaller  public  places  are 
found  in  all  divisions  of  the  city. 

THE  LAKE-TUNNELS. 

The  tunnel  under  Lake  Michigan,  by 
which  the  city  is  supplied  with  an  abun- 
dance of  the  purest  water,  is  an  object 
of  great  interest,  and  has  been  described 
as  the  eighth  wonder  of  the  world.  The 
Water-Works  are  situated  on  the  lake- 
shore,  in  the  North  Division,  about  one 
mile  north  from  the  court-house,  and  may 
be  inspected  on  application  to  Mr.  Cregier, 
the  engineer  in  charge.  They  comprise 
a water-tower,  130  feet  high,  up  which 
the  water  is  forced  by  four  engines,  hav- 
ing a pumping  capacity  of  71,000,000 
gallons  daily,  and  flow^s  thence  through 
the  street  pipes  to  every  part  of  the  city. 
A very  fine  view  of  the  city  and  sur- 
roundings may  be  obtained  from  the  top 
of  this  tower,  which  is  reached  by  a spiral 
staircase.  Prom  this  tower  a tunnel  ex- 
tends out  to  a distance  of  two  miles  under 
the  lake,  at  right  angles  with  the  shore. 
This  tunnel  is  nearly  circular  in  form,  the 
bore  being  62  inches  high,  and  60  inches 
wide.  It  is  formed  of  brick  masonry,  8 
inches  thick,  bedded  into  the  clay,  and 
required  about  4,000,000  bricks  to  con- 
struct it.  The  bottom  of  the  tunnel  is  66 
feet  below  the  lake-surface  at  the  lake 
end,  and  descends  four  feet  on  the  two 
miles  of  dip  toward  the  shore.  The  lake 
terminus  of  this  tunnel,  known  as  “ The 
Crib^''  is  visited  by  pleasure-tugs  almost 
daily  during  the  fine  weather  of  summer, 
giving  the  tourist  an  opportunity  of  in- 
specting it.  The  crib  at  first  consisted 
of  an  iron  shaft,  surrounded  by  a pentag- 
onal structure  of  logs,  containing  600,000 
feet  of  timber,  and  2,000  bolts.  This  is 
now  being  filled  in  with  solid  masonry,  on 
which  a light-house  will  be  built  in  1874 
or  1875,  w^hich,  in  addition  to  the  ordinary 
lantern,  will  display  signals  when  storms 


Lake-Tunnels.]  NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  I.  [Seminaries. 


are  indicated  by  the  observations  of  the 
United  States  Signal-Service  Corps.  The 
tunnel  was  commenced  on  the  l7th  of 
March,  1864,  and  completed  December 
G,  1866,  but  the  water  was  not  supplied 
to  the  city  through  it  till  March  25th,  fol- 
lowing. The  contract  price  for  the  tun- 
nel alone  was  $315,139. 

Another  tunnel  was  commenced  in  the 
summer  of  1873,  with  an  internal  diam- 
eter of  seven  feet,  which  will  connect  the 
Crib  with  the  present  pumping-works, 
and  thence  extend  underground  to  the 
southwestern  part  of  the  city,  having  a 
total  length  of  about  six  miles.  The 
land  terminus  will  have  an  independent 
pumping  - works  to  supply  that  part  of 
the  city  with  water.  The  contract  price 
of  the  second  tunnel  is  about  $400,000. 
When  completed,  the  total  cost  of  the 
water  system  of  Chicago  will  foot  up  to 
fully  $6,000,000. 

OTHER  PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 

The  Douglas  Monument  occupies  a site 
formerly  owned  by  Mr.  Douglas  himself. 
The  tract,  one  acre  in  extent,  was  pur- 
chased from  Mrs.  Douglas  for  the  sum  of 
$30,000.  The  monument  consists  of  a 
circular  base,  52  feet  in  diameter,  a pedes- 
tal, 21  feet  high,  and  column  of  43  feet, 
surmounted  by  a sphere,  upon  which  a 
bronze  statue  of  Douglas,  12  feet  high, 
is  to  be  placed.  The  entire  height  of  the 
monument,  when  completed,  will  be  100 
feet,  and  the  cost  $75,000. 

The  Artesian  Wells  of  Chicago  arc  a 
very  interesting  feature.  The  first  sunk 
are  situated  at  the  intersection  of  Chica- 
go and  Western  Avenues,  and  are  easily 
reached  by  the  cars  on  West-Randolph 
Street.  They  consist  of  two,  respectively 
911  and  694  feet  deep,  and  flow  about 
1,200,000  gallons  dail}^  It  is  noteworthy 
that  they  were  sunk  in  1864  under  the 
direction  of  a medium  who  prophesied 
that  oil  would  be  found  there — and  proph- 
esied falsely.  Since  then  nearly  forty 
other  artesian  wells  have  been  sunk  in 
Chicago,  with  uniform  success.  The 
Stock-Yards,  the  west-side  parks,  one  dis- 
tillery, and  several  other  establishments, 
are  supplied  Avith  water  from  these  wells. 

The  Union  Stock-Yards  embrace  345 
acres,  laid  out  in  streets  and  avenues, 


and  provided  with  an  abundant  supply 
of  water,  and  every  thing  needful  in  the 
receiving  and  tending  of  stock.  Nine  of 
the  railways  terminating  in  Chicago  find 
a common  centre  here:  15,000,000  feet 
of  lumber  Avere  used  in  constructing  the 
flooring  and  pens,  and  the  Avhole  cost 
of  construction  thus  far  has  reached 
$1,000,000.  There  is  a large  and  hand- 
some brick  hotel  connected  Avith  the 
yards.  There  is  a national  bank,  knoAvn 
as  the  Stock -Yards  Bank^  which  has  its 
place  in  the  clearing-house  of  the  city. 
The  Stock-Yards  Board  of  Trade  has  150 
members,  and  there  are  about  1,500  dro 
vers  and  operators  on  the  grounds  daily. 
Quite  a large  tOAvn — of  some  4,000  people 
— has  sprung  up  in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity, Avith  post  - office,  telegraph  - office, 
churches,  schools,  etc.  The  scene  is  very 
animated  and  interesting  during  the  day. 

Dexter  Park  racing-course  is  located 
here,  with  splendid  running  and  trotting 
tracks,  stands,  and  good  accommodations. 
The  Shooting- Club ^ also,  has  its  park  hero, 
and,  in  the  season,  keeps  about  25,000 
pigeons  in  cages,  and  houses  for  practice 
and  matches. 

The  Stock -Yards  and  the  park  are 
readily  reached  by  drives,  or  by  steam 
and  horse  cars. 

The  Grain  Elevators  are  also  a very 
interesting  feature,  and  should  be  visited 
by  those  who  want  to  obtain  an  idea  of 
the  way  in  which  the  immense  grain- 
trade  of  Chicago  is  handled.  There  are 
fifteen  of  these  buildings,  all  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  and  connected 
Avith  the  railroads  by  side-tracks.  They 
have  an  aggregate  storage  capacity  of 
12,800,000  bushels,  and  receive  or  dis- 
charge grain  with  almost  incredible  dis- 
patch, by  the  aid  of  machinery,  Avithout 
the  use  of  sacks. 

EDUCATIONAL  AND  LITERARY  INSTI- 
TUTIONS. 

The  University  of  Chicago  should  be 
visited,  if  the  traveller  have  time.  It  Avas 
founded  by  the  late  Senator  Douglas,  and 
was  first  opened  for  instruction  in  1858. 
It  occupies  a beautiful  site,  overlooking 
Lake  Michigan,  at  Cottage  Grove,  four 
miles  south  of  the  Court-House,  and  is 
readily  reached  by  the  State-Street  cars. 

13 


Seminaries,  etc.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Suburbs 


The  main,  central  buildinp^,  136  by  172 
feet,  was  completed  in  1866,  at  a cost  of 
$110,000.  The  south  wing  has  recently 
been  added.  When  the  edifice  is  finished, 
it  will  be  one  of  the  most  commodious  and 
elegant  buildings  in  the  West. 

The  Dearborn  Observatory  (tower), 
which  adjoins  the  University  on  the 
west,  contains  the  Clarke  telescope^  which 
is  one  of  the  largest  and  best-constructed 
instruments  in  the  country.  The  object- 
glass  has  a focal  length  of  23  feet. 

The  Chicago  Theological  Seminary  is 
one  of  the  most  noteworthy  institutions 
of  the  city.  The  building  stands  on  the 
west  side  of  Union  Square,  at  the  inter- 
section of  Reuben  and  Warren  Streets. 
It  has  a frontage  on  the  park,  and  is  in 
the  Norman  style  of  architecture.  It 
contains  a chapel,  library,  and  lecture- 
rooms.  The  cost  was  about  $100,000. 

The  Baptist  Theological  Seminary  has 
a large  and  fine  building  in  the  rear  of 
the  University  of  Chicago. 

The  Presbyterian  Theological  Seminary^ 
founded  in  1859,  has  a fine  building,  re- 
cently erected  at  the  corner  of  Fullerton 
Avenue  and  Halsted  Street.  It  is  five  sto- 
ries high,  and  contains  a fine  library. 

Chicago  also  contains  four  medical  col- 
leges, the  most  noteworthy  of  which  is 
the  Rush  Medical  College^  founded  in  1842, 
and  with  a new  and  handsome  building 
located  at  the  corner  of  North  Dearborn 
and  Indiana  Streets — the  Chicago  Medical 
College  has  now  a 'large  building  on  the 
corner  of  Prairie  Avenue  and  Twenty- 
sixth  Street,  the  Bennet  (Eclectic),  at 
461  Clark  Street,  and  the  Hahnemann 
(Homoeopathic)  College  is  located  on  the 
corner  of  Cottage  Grove  Avenue  and 
Twenty-eighth  Street — 2 Commercial  Col- 
leges^ 32  Roman  Catholic  convents  and 
schools,  and  34  public  schools. 

Among  the  purely  literary  and  scien- 
tific institutions,  the  Academy  of  Sciences 
and  the  Historical  Society  were  the  most 
prominent.  Both  buildings  were  burned 
to  the  ground.  The  Academy  has  just 
finished  a new  structure  on  the  old  site, 
on  Wabash  Avenue,  near  Van  Buren 
Street,  and  is  hard  at  work  in  gathering 
a collection  to  take  the  place  of  the 
38,000  specimens  in  the  several  depart- 
ments of  natural  history,  which,  with  a 
fine  library,  v/ere  totally  destroyed  in  Oc- 
14 


tober,  1871.  The  Historical  Society  has 
not  been  revived,  and  possibly  will  not 
be  for  some  years  to  come.  It  owned  a 
large  and  very  valuable  collection  of 
books,  manuscripts,  and  war-relics. 

OnAEITABLE  AND  BENEVOLENT  INSTI- 
TUTIONS. 

The  Cook  County  Hospital^  erected  in 
1866,  is  on  the  corner  of  Eighteenth  and 
Arnold  Streets  ; the  Magdalen  Asylum  is 
on  North  Market  Street ; the  Protestant 
Orphan  Asylum  is  at  the  corner  of  Michi- 
gan Avenue  and  Twenty-second  Street ; 
the  Home  for  the  Friendless  is  at  911 
Wabash  Avenue,  and  St.  Josephs  (male) 
and  St.  Maryh  (female)  Orphan  Asylums 
are  located  on  North  State,  corner  of  Su- 
perior. The  two  last-named  institutions 
are  under  the  charge  of  the  Sisters  of 
Mercy.  A new  Marine  Hospital,,  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  costly  in  the  coun- 
try, is  about  finished  at  Lake  View,  a lit- 
tle beyond  Lincoln  Park.  Mercy  Hospital' 
corner  of  Calumet  Avenue  and  Twenty» 
eighth  Street,  is  an  immense  institution* 
well  worth  visiting. 

CEMETERIES. 

Of  the  cemeteries,  Graceland,,  Rose-hill 
and  Calvary,,  in  the  North  Division,  are 
the  most  interesting.  The  last  two  are 
on  the  line  of  the  Chicago  & Milwaukee 
Railway.  Oakwood,,  on  Vincennes  Road, 
three  miles  south  of  the  southern  limits, 
is  also  a very  pretty  rural  spot.  This 
cemetery  can  be  reached  by  horse-cars 
and  dummy,  or  by  a pleasant  drive 
through  the  boulevards. 

SUBURBS  AND  VICINITY. 

Chicago  will  in  a few  years  be  as  fa- 
mous for  its  suburbs  as  Boston.  It  has 
already  about  40  towns  which  may  be 
regarded  as  suburban,  with  their  frequent 
special  trains  and  their  population  com- 
posed exclusively  of  Chicago  Business- 
men and  their  families.  This  population 
in  the  aggregate  reaches  a figure  of  nearly 
100,000.  Any  one  of  these  suburban 
towns  may  be  visited  in  a day,  and  the 
arrangement  of  the  trains  is  such  that  two 
or  three  of  them  may  be  taken  in  a sin- 


Suburbs.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  II.  [Erie  Railway. 


gle  excursion  by  tourists  who  find  a pleas- 
ure in  passing  their  time  in  this  way. 

The  immediate  suburbs  are  very  charm- 
ing. On  the  south  side  are  Groveland 
Tarh^  Vincennes  Hoad^  and  Hyde  Park., 
all  of  which  may  be  included  in  a single 
drive.  A large  hotel  will  be  found  in  the 
latter  place.  On  the  west  side,  Riverside 
is  the  most  notable,  and,  though  13  miles 
from  the  city,  it  is  connected  directly  by 
a boulevard,  and  will  repay  the  visit  with 
its  beautiful  natural  scenery,  the  splendid 
roads,  parks,  and  other  costly  improve- 
ments, that  will  be  found  there.  There  is 
also  a hotel  here.  Lake  View.,  on  the 
north  side,  will  be  found  to  contain  many 
handsome  residences,  grounds,  and  gar- 
dens. These  places  may  all  be  reached 
by  railroad  as  well  as  by  carriage. 

Of  the  more  remote  suburbs,  those 
most  worthy  of  a visit  are  Lake  Forest, 
Evanston,  and  Harlem,  particularly  the 
former.  It  is  located  on  the  Millwaukee 
division  of  the  Chicago  & Northwestern 
Railroad,  about  28  miles  from  Chicago. 

MOUTE  II. 

HEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO, 

Via  Erie  and  Lake  Shore  <&  Michigan  South- 
ern Railicays.  (2Vwe,  34  hrs. — Fare,  $22.) 

Stations  on  Erie  Railway.  — New 
York — Jersey  City,  one  mile  from  New 
York  ; Paterson  (Junction  of  Newark 
Branch),  lY  ; Sulfern,  32  ; Ramapo,  34  ; 
Newburg  Junction  (Junction  of  New- 
burg  Branch),  46  ; Turner’s,  48  ; Grey- 
court  (Junction  of  Warwick  and  New- 
burg Branches),  54 ; Goshen  (Junction 
of  Montgomery  Branch),  60  ; Middletown 
(Junction  of  Unionville  Branch),  67 ; 
Port  Jervis,  88 ; Lackawaxen  (Junction 
of  Hawley  Branch),  111  ; Narrowsburg, 
123  ; Deposit,  177 ; Susquehanna,  193  ; 
Great  Bend,  201 ; Binghamton  (Junction 
of  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  and  Western, 
Syracuse  and  Binghamton,  and  Albany 
and  Susquehanna  Railways),  215  ; Owego 
(Junction  of  Cayuga  Division  of  Dela- 
ware, Lackawanna  and  Western  Rail- 
way), 237  ; Waverly  (Junction  of  Lehigh 
Valley  Railway),  256  ; Elmira  (Junction 
of  Northern  Central  Railway),  274 ; 
Corning  (Junction  of  Rochester  Division, 
and  Corning,  Blossburg  and  Tioga  Rail- 


way), 291  ; Canisteo,  328 ; Homellsville 
(Junction  of  Buffalo  Division),  332  ; 
Glean,  395  ; Carrollton  (Junction  of  Brad- 
ford Branch),  408 ; Salamanca  (Junction 
of  Atlantic  and  Great  Western  Division), 
415 ; Dunkirk  (connects  with  Lake 
Shore  Line),  460. 

The  Erie  Railway  is  one  of  the  noblest 
triumphs  of  engineering  skill  and  per- 
severance to  be  seen  in  this  country  or  in 
any  other.  When  first  built,  this  road, 
except  at  a few  points,  lay  through  an 
almost  unknown  country — a country  as 
fraught  with  wondering  interest  as  the 
Adirondack  region  now  is.  Portions  of 
the  line  were  considered  impassable  to 
any  other  than  a winged  creature,  yet 
mountains  were  scaled  or  pierced,  and 
river  canons  passed,  by  blasting  a path 
from  the  face  of  stupendous  precipices  ; 
gorges  of  fearful  depth  were  spanned  by 
daring  bridges,  and  broad,  deep  valleys 
crossed  by  massive  viaducts.  Villages 
began  to  spring  up  along  its  line ; those 
already  existing  expanded  their  bounds, 
and  some  have  become  cities.  It  has 
opened  a way  to  market  for  the  products 
of  the  soil,  and  the  mineral  wealth  hidden 
in  the  mountain-ranges  that  it  traverses. 
It  threw  out  branches  right  and  left,  to 
infuse  the  blood  of  commerce  far  and 
wide,  and  is  now  one  of  the  main  arteries 
of  travel  between  the  East  and  the 
“ Great  West,”  though  only  completed 
on  the  15th  of  May,  1851. 

In  the  State  of  New  Jersey  it  passes 
through  the  great  manufacturing  city  of 
Paterson,  famed  for  the  beautiful  falls  of 
the  Passaic,  and  then  at  the  distance  of 
31  miles  from  New-York  City  it  crosses 
the  line  near  Suffern's  Station,  and  enters 
into  the  State  of  New  York,  commencing 
the  ascent  of  the  famous  Ramapo  Val- 
ley, At  Sloatshurg  the  road  passes  near 
Greenwood  Lake,  a noted  summer  re- 
sort, around  which  are  a number  of  little 
lakes,  each  beautiful  and  attractive;  a 
few  miles  farther,  and  one  can  find  at 
Turners  a most  picturesque  view,  and, 
should  he  desire  to  stop,  all  the  fishing 
and  boating  he  may  desire.  On  ap- 
proaching Otisville,  the  eye  is  attracted 
by  the  bold  flanks  of  the  Shawangunk 
Mountain,  the  passage  of  which  great 
barrier  (once  deemed  almost  insurmount- 
able) is  a miracle  of  engineering  skill.  A 
15 


Erie  Railway.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Erie  Railway. 


mile  beyond  Otisville,  after  traversing  an 
ascending  grade  of  40  feet  to  the  mile, 
the  road  runs  through  a rock-cutting  50 
feet  deep  and  2,500  feet  long.  This 
passed,  the  summit  of  the  ascent  is 
reached,  and  thence  we  go  down  the 
mountain’s  side  many  sloping  miles  to  the 
valley  beneath.  The  scenery  along  the 
mountain-slope  is  grand  and  picturesque, 
and  the  eifect  is  not  lessened  by  the  bold 
features  of  the  landscape  all  around.  In 
the  descent  of  the  mountain  the  embank- 
ment is  securely  supported  by  a wall  30 
feet  in  height  and  1,000  feet  long.  On- 
ward the  way  increases  in  interest,  until 
it  opens  upon  a glimpse,  away  over  the 
valley,  of  the  mountain-spur,  called  the 
Ciiddehack ; and,  at  its  base,  the  glitter- 
ing water  is  seen  now,  for  the  first  time, 
of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal.  Eight 
miles  beyond  Otisville  we  are  imprisoned 
in  a deep  cutting  for  nearly  a mile,  which 
prepares  us  for  the  brilliant  surprise 
which  awaits  us.  The  dark  passage 
made,  and  yet  another  bold  dash  through 
rocky  cliffs,  and  there  lies  suddenly 
spread  before  us,  upon  our  right,  the  rich 
and  lovely  valley  and  waters  of  the  Never- 
sink.  Beyond,  sweeps  a chain  of  blue 
hills,  and  at  their  feet,  terraced  high, 
gleam  the  roofs  and  spires  of  the  village 
of  Pori  Jervis;  while  onward,  to  the 
south,  our  eye  first  beholds  the  floods  of 
the  Delaware,  which  is  to  be  so  great  a 
source  of  delight  in  our  journey  onward, 
for  nearly  90  long  miles,  to  Deposit. 

At  ShoJiola  we  find  ourselves  among 
some  of  the  greatest  engineering  suc- 
cesses of  the  Erie  route,  and  some  of  its 
chief  pictorial  charms.  Here  the  road 
lies  on  the  mountain-side,  several  feet 
above  the  river,  along  a mighty  gallery, 
supported  by  grand  natural  abutments  of 
jagged  rock.  Upon  three  miles  along 
this  Shohola  section  of  the  road  at  least 
§300,000  were  expended. 

At  Deposify  IVY  miles  from  New  York, 
we  bid  good-by  to  the  Delaware,  which 
we  have  followed  so  long,  and  prepare  for 
the  ascent  of  a heavy  grade  over  the  high 
mountain-ridge  which  separates  it  from 
the  lovely  waters  of  the  Susquehanna, 
As  the  train  descends  into  the  valley  there 
seems  no  promise  of  the  wonders  which 
arc  awaiting  us,  but  they  come  suddenly, 
and  the  view  opens  almost  immediatclvat 
16 


the  right — deep  down  upon  the  winding 
Susquehanna,  reaching  afar  off  amid  a 
valley  and  hill  picture  of  rare  beauty,  a 
fitting  prelude  to  the  sweet  river-scenes 
we  are  soon  to  delight  in.  This  first 
glimpse  of  the  Susquehanna  is  esteemed 
one  of  the  finest  points  of  the  varied 
scenery  of  the  Erie  Railway  route.  It 
may  be  looked  at  more  leisurely  by  one 
who  tarries  to  explore  the  neighboring 
scenery,  and  the  valley  of  the  Starrucca, 
with  its  grand  viaduct,  which  we  are  now 
rapidly  approaching.  The  Starrucca  Via- 
duct is  one  of  the  greatest  engineering 
achievements  of  the  entire  route.  It  is 
1,200  feet  in  length  and  110  feet  high,  and 
has  18  grand  arches,  each  50  feet  span. 
The  cost  was  §320,000.  From  the  vicinity 
of  Susquehannay  the  next  station,  the  via- 
duct itself  makes  a most  effective  feature 
in  the  valley  views.  A little  beyond  the 
viaduct,  and  just  before  we  reach  the 
Susquehanna  station,  we  cross  a fine 
trestle-bridge,  450  feet  long,  over  the 
Cannewacta  Q reeky  at  Lanesborough.  We 
are  now  fairly  upon  the  Susquehanna, 
not  in  the  distance,  but  near  its  very 
bank,  and  soon  we  reach  the  end  of  the 
second  grand  division  of  our  route,  and 
enter  the  depot  of  Susquehanna, 

Two  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  from 
New  York  we  find  ourselves  at  the 
flourishing  city  of  Binghamtony  the  site 
of  the  State  Inebriate  Asylum,  an  impor- 
tant railroad  centre,  and  surrounded  by 
the  beautiful  hilly  and  rolling  country 
through  which  we  pass  as  far  as  Hornells- 
ville,  for  we  are  now  out  of  the  moun- 
tains. Twenty-one  miles  farther  and  we 
come  to  OmegOy  a large  and  prosperous 
place,  and  then  to  ElmircCy  the  most  im- 
portant city  on  the  road.  At  Hornells- 
ville  we  reach  the  last  and  least  interest- 
ing division  of  the  road,  and  soon  after 
commence  to  descend  to  the  Lake  Erie 
level.  At  Dunkirky  460  miles  from  New 
York,  we  reach  the  junction  with  the  Lake 
Shore  line,  and  leave  the  State  of  Nev/ 
York,  crossing  the  upper  corner  of  Penn- 
sylvania to  EriCy  an  old,  pleasant,  and 
important  lake  city,  and  the  point  at 
which  we  begin  our  purely  Western 
Tour. 

Note. — The  portion  of  the  route  which 
we  have  thus  hastily  sketched  is  elabo- 
rately described  in  “ Appletons’  Hand- 


Gonneant.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  II. 


[Cleveland. 


Book  of  American  Travel — Northern 
AND  Eastern  Tour,”  to  which  the  trav- 
eller is  referred  for  details.  For  the  con- 
venience of  the  traveller  we  give  below 
the  names  of  all  stations  between  Buffalo 
and  Chicago,  though  only  the  more  im- 
portant will  be  described. 

Stations  on  Lake  Shore  Line. — Buffalo, 
423  miles  from  New  York  via  Buffalo  and 
Erie  Railway  ; Lake  View,  15  miles  from 
Buffalo ; Angola,  21  ; Irving,  29  ; Silver 
Creek,  31 ; Dunkirk,  460  miles  from  New 
York  via  main  line,  40  miles  from  Buffalo ; 
Westfield,  47Y ; Ripley,  485  ; Northeast, 
493  ; Erie,  508  ; Girard,  523 ; Conneant, 
535  ; Kingsville,  543  ; Ashtabula,  549  ; 
Geneva,  558  ; Madison,  563  ; Painesville, 
5^74  ; Willoughby,  585  ; Cleveland,  603  ; 
Berea,  616 ; Elyria,  628 ; Oberlin,  634  ; 
Kipton,  641  ; Wakeman,  646  ; Norwalk, 
658  ; Monroeville,  662  ; Bellevue,  670  ; 
Clyde,  677  ; Fremont,  685  ; Elmore,  698  ; 
Toledo,  715. 

Michigan  Southern  Division. — Syl- 
vania,  725  ; Palmyra,  742  ; Adrian,  747  ; 
Hudson,  764  ; Hillsdale,  780 ; Jonesville, 
785;  Coldwater,  803;  Burr  Oak,  820; 
Sturgis,  827 ; White  Pigeon,  838  ; Bristol, 
849 ; Wauseon,  747  ; Stryker,  761 ; Bryan, 
769;  Edgerton,  779;  Brimfield,  811  ; Li- 
gonier,  823  ; Goshen,  837  ; Elkhart,  857 ; 
Mishawaka,  868  ; South  Bend,  872  ; Car- 
lisle, 885 ; La  Porte,  899 ; Chesterton, 
901  ; Englewood,  952  ; Chicago,  958. 

Coianeaiit,  O.  (535  miles),  is  the 
first  station  in  Ohio.  It  has  a good 
harbor,  and  is  noted  as  the  landing-place 
of  the  party  who  made  the  first  settlement 
in  Northwestern  Ohio. 

Aslitafeala,  O.  (549  miles),  is 
a small  place,  and  is  only  of  commercial 
importance  as  a lake  port. 

5®aiiaesville,  O.  (574  miles),  is 
charmingly  situated  on  Grand  River^ 
about  three  miles  from  Lake  Erie,  and 
one  hundred  feet  above  the  lake.  It  is 
an  attractive  place,  containing  a beauti- 
ful public  park,  some  handsome  build- 
ings, a large  female  seminary,  and  the 
works  of  the  Geauga  Furnace  Company. 
The  valley  through  which  the  river  runs 
is  deep  and  picturesque.  The  stone  bridge 
by  which  the  railway  crosses  the  river  is 
over  800  feet  long. 

WilloiagIfl1>y5  4>.  (585  miles),  is 


a pleasant  village,  chiefly  noted  as  the 
seat  of  a small  medical  college  and  a large 
female  seminary. 

Cleveisaiad,  <>•  (603  miles),  is  the 
second  city  in  size  in  the  State,  and  is 
noted,  not  only  for  its  large  commercial 
and  manufacturing  interests,  but  for  its 
extreme  beauty.  It  was  the  first  settle- 
ment within  the  limits  of  Cuyahoga 
County,  in  that  part  of  Ohio  which  has 
long  been  known  as  the  Western  Reserve, 
It  was  laid  out  in  October,  1796,  and 
named  in  honor  of  General  Moses  Cleve- 
land, a native  of  Connecticut.  Originally 
the  town  was  confined  to  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  Cuyahoga,  at  its  entrance 
into  Lake  Erie,  but  subsequently  Brook- 
lyn, or  Ohio  City,  sprang  up  on  the  oppo- 
site side,  and  both  parts  are  now  united 
under  one  corporation.  The  greater  por- 
tion of  the  city  stands  on  a gravelly 
plain,  at  an  elevation  of  200  feet  above 
Lake  Erie. 

Cleveland  is  remarkable  for  the  v/idth 
of  its  streets.  Many  of  its  secondary 
thoroughfares  are  1 00  feet  wide,  and  the 
width  of  Superior  Street  is  132  feet.  In 
1866  Monumental  Fark^  which  hes  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  was,  by  act  of  coun- 
cil, opened  to  the  public.  By  this  means, 
Superior  Street  was  extended  in  a straight 
line  entirely  through  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  city,  from  east  to  west,  for  several 
miles  into  the  country,  piercing  Monu- 
mental Park  through  its  centre.  On 
either  side  of  the  street  elm-trees  are  to 
be  set  out,  which,  in  time,  will  make  it 
one  of  the  loveliest  avenues  imaginable. 
Ontario  Street  cuts  the  park  through 
from  north  to  south,  so  that  what  was 
formerly  quite  a large  park,  has  been  re- 
duced to  four  small  plats.  In  the  middle 
stands  the  Monument  to  Commodore 
Ferry^  cut  from  Italian  marble,  at  a cost 
of  $8,000.  It  was  designed  and  modelled 
by  William  Walcott,  and  unveiled  Sep- 
tember 10,  1860.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  river  is  another  handsome  park, 
known  as  the  Circle. 

The  Cuyahoga  River  forms  a safe 
though  not  very  commodious  harbor, 
where  it  empties  into  Lake  Erie.  Piers 
on  either  side  of  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
extending  425  yards  into  the  lake,  200 
feet  apart,  and  faced  with  substantial 
masonry,  materially  improve  the  harbor. 


Cleveland.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Cleveland. 


Owing  to  the  elevated  situation  of  the 
city,  travellers,  on  entering  it,  along  the 
foot  of  the  bluff,  form  an  unsatisfactory 
and  disagreeable  impression  of  it.  They 
only  see  those  portions  devoted  to  busi- 
ness interests,  along  the  river-bottom  or 
lake-shore.  It  is  only  when  they  have 
ascended  into  the  city  proper,  and  ridden 
through  its  charming  streets  in  car  or 
carriage,  that  they  are  able  to  form  a just 
opinion  of  it.  The  profusion  of  shade- 
trees  with  which  all  its  streets,  except 
those  devoted  exclusively  to  business,  are 
adorned,  has  given  to  Cleveland  the  title 
of  the  “Forest  City.”  Euclid  Avenue, 
lined  with  elegant  residences,  each  sur- 
rounded by  ample  grounds,  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  handsomest  on  the 
continent.  Prospect  Street  is  also  very 
beautiful. 

The  social  and  municipal  institutions 
of  the  city  are  in  a highly  creditable  con- 
dition. Especially  are  the  churches 
numerous,  and  the  schools  excellent. 
Considering  the  admirable  nature  of  the 
school  system  itself,  and  the  number  and 
beauty  of  the  school  edifices,  Cleveland 
is  unexcelled  by  any  city  in  the  United 
States.  The  Mrst^  Second^  and  Third 
Freshyterian^  and  Trinity  (Episcopal) 
churches,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral^ are  all  fine  structures.  The  Method- 
ist Episcopal  Society  has  purchased  a lot 
on  the  corner  of  Erie  Street  and  Euclid 
Avenue,  upon  which  it  will  erect  a mag- 
nificent church ; it  has  already  completed 
a fine  chapel  in  the  rear  of  the  lot. 

Among  the  notable  public  buildings 
are  the  Cleveland  Medical  College  (“old 
school  ”),  established  about  the  year  1843, 
an  imposing  structure,  on  the  corner 
of  Erie  and  St.  Clair  Streets  ; and  the 
Marine  Hospital^  on  the  bank  of  the 
lake,  near  the  college. 

The  Water-  Works  stand  near  the 
lake,  west  of  the  river,  and,  by  means 
of  two  splendid  and  massive  engines, 
force  lake-water  into  an  enormous  reser- 
voir, occupying  the  highest  point  of 
ground  on  the  west  side,  from  which  it  is 
distributed  all  over  the  city. 

The  Union  Railway  Depot  was  built 
by  the  Lake  Shore,  Cleveland  <Sc  Flits- 
hurg,  Cleveland  do  Toledo,  and  Cleve- 
land <k  Cincinnati  Railways  in  1866, 
under  the  direct  supervision  of  Mr. 

18 


Amasa  Stone,  president  of  the  Lake 
Shore  road.  It  is  a massive  stone  build- 
ing— one  of  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  the 
world — with  a bas-relief  portrait  of  Mr. 
Stone,  on  the  key-stone,  over  the  main 
entrance,  and  similar  portraits  of  Grant 
and  Lincoln,  besides  various  symbolical 
designs  upon  key-stones  at  either  end  of 
the  building. 

Case  Hall,  a beautiful  edifice,  near  the 
park,  was  begun  by  Mr.  William  Case, 
and  completed  by  his  brother,  Leonard 
Case — after  the  death  of  the  former — in 
1866.  It  contains,  besides  the  rooms  of 
the  Cleveland  Library  Association,  and 
numerous  offices  and  stores,  an  elegant- 
ly-appointed  hall,  capable  of  seating  1,500 
people. 

The  Charily  Hospital,  on  Perry  Street, 
was  built  with  the  contributions  of  Ro- 
man Catholics  and  Protestants,  mostly 
solicited  by  Bishop  Rappe  (Roman  Catho- 
lic). The  House  of  Correction,  on  the 
eastern  outskirts  of  the  city,  is  a large 
and  splendid  building,  for  the  confine- 
ment and  utilizing  of  city  offenders. 
The  Homoeopathic  Charity  Hospital,  on 
University  Heights,  was  formerly  Humis- 
ton’s  Institute. 

Cleveland  has  two  beautiful  cemeteries  : 
the  old  one,  on  Erie  Street,  and  Wood- 
lawn  Cemetery,  on  the  eastern  boundaries 
of  the  city.  The  latter  is  rich  in  monu- 
ments and  statuary.  Still  another  has 
been  laid  out,  five  miles  from  town,  on 
Euclid  Avenue,  consisting  of  a beautiful 
tract  of  300  acres,  250  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake.  It  was  opened  for  the 
sale  of  lots  on  June  23,  1870.  The 
wealthiest  men  in  Cleveland  are  among 
the  directors. 

The  Cleveland  Library  Association  has 
a library  and  reading-room  in  Case  Hall. 
The  library  contains  30,000  volumes. 
Early  in  1870  the  society  received  a 
gift  of  $25,000  from  Mr.  Leonard 
Case.  It  is  intended  to  change,  at  an 
early  day,  the  character  of  this  institu- 
tion, giving  it  a higher  grade,  at  the  ex- 
pense, to  a great  extent,  of  its  popularity ; 
the  idea  being  to  make  it  more  than  now 
a dependence  of  scholars,  and  persons  of 
cultivated  tastes  in  literature. 

In  February,  1869,  the  Cleveland 
Public  Library  was  opened.  It  is  a 
free,  j)opular  library,  containing  8,500 


Cleveland.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  II. 


[Toledo. 


volumes,  and  is  supported  by  an  annual 
tax  upon  the  citizens  of  one-tenth  of  a 
mill,  which  produced,  in  1870,  a revenue 
of  $4,000. 

Independent  of  its  large  and  increas- 
ing business  by  railway  and  canal,  Cleve- 
land carries  on  a very  considerable  and 
important  trade  with  the  lake  country, 
more  particularly  vfith  the  mining  region 
of  Lake  Superior.  Eight  transportation 
lines  are  connected  with  the  port,  giving 
daily  steamboat  and  propeller  communi- 
cation v/ith  every  important  point  on  the 
chain  of  lakes.  This  is  one  of  the  best 
points  of  departure  for  tourist  travel  to 
the  Lake  Superior  region.  Cleveland  has 
also  attained  eminence  as  a ship-building 
port ; several  of  its  barks,  built  for  the 
Liverpool  trade,  have  excited  much  ad- 
miration in  England. 

Up  to  about  1860,  the  commercial  in- 
terests of  Cleveland  were  chiefly  confined 
to  a canal  and  lake  traffic.  Suddenly 
manufacturing  enterprises  began  to  be 
developed,  particularly  in  the  direction 
of  iron  and  coal-oil  manufactories,  which 
are  now  very  heavy  interests,  and  con- 
stantly increasing  in  importance. 

In  the  manufacture  of  refined  petro- 
leum, Cleveland  is  second  to  no  city  in 
the  United  States,  unless,  perhaps,  it  be 
Pittsburg. 

There  are  also  important  manufactories 
of  sulphuric  acid,  wooden  ware,  agricul- 
tural implements,  marble  and  stone,  rail- 
road cars,  grindstones,  and  white  lead. 

The  lumber-trade  of  Cleveland  is  also 
very  important. 

Some  idea  of  the  commerce  of  Cleve- 
land may  be  obtained  from  the  statement 
that  the  estimated  value  of  the  lake,  ca- 
nal, and  rail  traffic,  of  1868,  was  $865,000,- 
000,  and  that  the  showing  for  1870  was 
in  excess  of  that  sum. 

The  first  street  railroad  was  opened  in 
1860 ; now,  the  city  has  four  different  lines, 
which  do  an  immense  business. 

The  Academy  of  Music^  on  Bank  Street, 
is  the  only  place  where  dramatic  enter- 
tainments are  given. 

The  best  hotels  are  the  Kennard  (for- 
merly Angier),  Weddell^  and  American 
House.  There  are  numerous  second  and 
third  class  houses ; several  of  the  former 
are  well  kept. 

Besides  the  hospitals  already  enumer- 


ated, are  the  Wilson  Street  Hospital^  and 
the  Ferry  Street  Fxtreat  for  Fallen 
Women. 

The  Cleveland  Female  Seminary^  on 
Woodland  Avenue,  has  an  enviable  repu- 
tation among  institutions  of  its  class. 

In  order  to  obviate  occasional  foulings 
of  the  lake-water,  pumped  through  the 
supply-pipe  of  the  water-works,  into  the 
reservoir,  a tunnel,  extending  under  the 
lake  several  hundred  feet  farther  than 
the  extreme  point  of  the  present  pipe, 
has  been  built  in  order  to  secure  a constant 
supply  of  pure  water.  It  was  completed 
in  1873,  and  the  cost  of  the  tunnel  and 
crib  together  was  $166,504.  The  popula- 
tion of  Cleveland,  by  the  census  of  1870, 
was  93,000. 

O.  (628  miles),  is  a pleasant 
village,  at  the  forks  of  the  Black  RiveVy 
which  at  this  point  has  two  vertical  falls 
of  40  feet,  affording  a fine  water-power, 
which  is  utilized  by  a number  of  manu- 
factories. The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is 
attractive. 

O.  (628  miles),  is  noted 
for  its  college,  from  which  no  person  is 
excluded  on  account  either  of  sex  or 
color.  This  college,  founded  in  1834, 
combines  manual  labor  with  study,  in- 
culcates entire  social  equality  between 
whites  and  blacks,  and  has  had  a very 
prosperous  career. 

Worwallf,  O.  (658  miles),  is  a very 
handsome,  well-built  village.  Its  princi- 
pal street,  which  is  shaded  by  fine  maple- 
trees,  extends  along  a ridge.  The  village 
contains  the  Norwalk  Institute,  Norwalk 
Female  Seminary,  and  other  good  schools. 

Toled-O,  O,  (715  miles),  is  an  im- 
portant point,  and,  within  a few  years, 
has  developed  from  an  inconsiderable 
village  into  a large  and  rapidly-growing 
city.  In  1850,  the  population  was  3,820; 
in  1860,  13,768  ; and  in  1870,  31,693. 

Situated  on  the  Maumee  River,  4 miles 
from  a broad  and  beautiful  bay,  and  12 
miles  from  Lake  Erie,  Toledo  has  always 
been  looked  upon  as  an  important  lake- 
port,  but,  owing  to  the  sparse  population 
around  it,  together  with  the  impression 
that  it  was  usihealthy,  its  development 
was  slow  until  About  1860,  since  which 
time  its  growth  has  been  marvellously 
rapid.  The  enterprise  and  liberality  of 
the  business-men  of  Toledo  have  made 
19 


Toledo.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Adrian. 


it  a great  railroad  and  commercial  cen- 
tre. In  1858,  the  imports  of  Toledo 
amounted  to  $31, '700, 085,  and  the  ex- 
ports to  $35,460,031 ; in  1869,  the  im- 
ports were  valued  at  $182,360,700,  and 
the  exports  at  $198,723,432.  The  ag- 
gregate grain  movement  at  Toledo,  in 
1869,  was  18,660,949  bushels,  exclusive 
of  receipts,  aggregating  2,789,540  that 
did  not  go  into  elevator.  During  1869 
there  were  erected  667  buildings,  at  a cost 
of  $1,377,600.  The  aggregate  business  of 
the  commission  and  jobbing-houses  (then 
transacting  a business  in  excess  of  $50,000 
per  annum)  was  $44,810,252. 

The  handsomest  buildings  in  Toledo 
are  those  devoted  to  educational  pur- 
poses and  religion.  There  are  six  ward- 
school  buildings,  of  brick,  which  cost 
from  $20,000  to  $30,000,  and  a central 
or  high-school  building — one  of  the  first 
in  the  State — which  cost,  probably, 
$60,000.  Of  churches,  there  are : Meth- 
odist Episcopal,  4 ; Baptist,  3 ; Congre- 
gational, 2 ; Presbyterian,  3 ; Free  Meth- 
odist, 1 ; Protestant  Episcopal,  2 ; Roman 
Catholic,  6 ; Lutheran,  2 ; German  Re- 
formed, 1. 

Manufactories  are  numerous  and  im- 
portant, including  2 car  factories — ^that 
owned  by  the  Toledo,  Wabash  & Western 
Railway  Company  being  one  of  the  most 
extensive  in  the  country ; Manhattan  iron- 
works; 3 steam-engine  manufactories; 
agricultural-implement  factory;  4 sash, 
blind,  and  door  factories;  1 rake-fac- 
tory ; 2 saw  and  file-factories ; 6 brew- 
eries ; 4 flouring  mills  ; 4 manufactories 
of  carriages,  and  carriage  fixtures,  and 
numerous  smaller  establishments. 

Of  railroads,  there  are  seven:  Michi- 
cjan  Div.  of  the  Lake  Shore  Michigan 
Southern  Railway^  243  miles  in  length — 
to  Chicago ; Air-Line^  127  miles ; Jackson 
Branchy  65  miles ; Toledo  cfi  Detroit^  65 
miles;  Dayton  & Michigan^  and  Cincin^ 
nati^  Hamilton^  <b  Dayton^  202  miles ; To- 
ledo Div,  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  South- 
ern^ 112  miles ; Toledo,,  WahashdcWestern,, 
490  miles. 

Hotels. — The  largest  hotels  are  : Oli- 
ver House,,  Island  House,  American,  and 
Si.  Charles. 

Grain  Elevators. — Toledo  has  8 grain 
elevators,  the  smallest  of  which  has  a 
storage  capacity  of  125,000  bushels,  and 
20 


the  largest,  of  761,000  bushels ; aggregate 
storage  capacity  of  2,572,000  bushels, 
and  a capacity  to  receive  and  ship  daily, 
400,000  bushels.  Another  elevator,  of 
iron,  was  built  in  1870. 

At  Toledo  the  road  branches,  one  di- 
vision running  through  Southern  Michi- 
gan, and  known  as  the  Michigan  Southern 
Division,  the  other  running  through  Indi- 
ana, and  known  as  the  Air-Line,  Wo 
will  consider  these  branches  in  the  order 
we  have  mentioned  them,  repeating  the 
names  of  the  stations  for  the  convenience 
of  the  reader. 

Michigan  Southern  Division. — Sta- 
tions : Sylvania,  725 ; Palmyra,  742  ; 
Adrian,  747;  Hudson,  764;  Hillsdale, 
780  ; Jonesville,  785  ; Quincy,  794  ; Cold- 
water,  803  ; Burr  Oak,  820 ; Sturgis,  827  ; 
White  Pigeon,  838 ; Bristol,  849  ; Elk- 
hart, 857. 

A^lrlan,  Midi.  (747  miles),  is 
the  metropolis  of  Southern  Michigan,  and 
in  1860  was  the  third  city  in  size  in  the 
State,  and  is  at  present  the  fifth.  It  has 
a small  water-power,  which  is  applied  to 
manufacturing  purposes.  Many  of  the 
stores  are  large  and  handsome ; there  are 
several  beautiful  churches,  and  many 
large  and  elegant  houses  ; the  streets  are 
well  shaded.  The  Lawrence  Hotel  is  a 
capital  house. 

Upon  the  4th  of  July,  1870,  a monu- 
ment to  the  soldiers  from  Adrian,  who  lost 
their  lives  during  the  war  for  the  Union, 
was  dedicated.  The  monument  is  situ- 
ated about  midway  between  the  depot 
grounds  and  the  post-ojfice,  upon  what  is 
known  as  Monument  Square,  a fine  little 
park  of  three  acres.  It  consists  of  an 
octagonal  base,  15  feet  in  diameter,  and 
20  feet  in  height,  a marble  shaft  3 feet  9 
inches  in  diameter,  and  27  feet  high,  sur- 
mounted by  an  urn  7 feet  in  height — 
making  the  monument  54  feet  in  height. 
The  base  and  urn  are  made  from  Amherst 
sandstone,  and  the  marble  shaft  was  con- 
tributed by  the  United  States  authorities 
at  Washington,  it  being  one  of  the  pillars 
of  the  old  Government  bank  at  Phila- 
delphia. The  monument  bears  the  fol- 
lowing inscription : 

“18T0. 

“ Erected  by  the  citizens  of  Adrian  in  memory  of 
our  fallen  soldiers. 

“ By  sack  as  these  was  our  Union  saved  in  the 
great  struggle  in  ’61-65.” 


ntJDSON.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  II. 


[Butler. 


Above  the  mottoes  on  the  panels  of 
the  base  are  inscribed  the  names  of  77 
soldiers  from  the  city  who  fell  during  the 
war. 

There  is  a handsome  college  in  the 
western  part  of  the  town  ; and  the  central 
Union  school  building,  the  finest  in  the 
West. 

The  railway  repair-shops  for  this  divi- 
sion are  located  here. 

Branch  roads  to  Detroit  and  Jackson 
diverge  here. 

Midi.  (764  miles),  is 
an  active,  thriving  village  on  Tiffin’s  River, 
possessing  no  attraction  for  the  tourist. 

Hillsdale,  Midi.  (780  miles), 
is  a place  of  about  2,000  inhabitants, 
situated  upon  the  St.  Joseph’s  River.  It 
is  the  county-seat,  and  contains  several 
large  stores,  mills,  etc.,  besides  the  stone 
Court-House,  several  churches,  and  some 
handsome  dwellings.  It  also  contains  a 
collegiate  institution  of  some  local  re- 
pute, though  not  ranked  as  a first-class 
college. 

•¥©ncsville,  Midi.  (785  miles), 
is  the  oldest  village  in  Hillsdale  County, 
and  is  a prosperous  place.  It  is  noted 
for  having  one  of  the  best  Union  schools 
in  the  State.  The  Waverley  Home  is  well 
kept. 

The  Fort  Wayne^  Jackson  S Saginaw 
Railway  intersects  at  this  point. 

Coldwates*,  Mida.  (803  miles), 
upon  the  river  of  the  same  name,  is  the 
commercial  centre  of  a fine  section  of 
country.  It  is  large,  prosperous,  and  at- 
tractive. The  river  affords  a good  water- 
po\ver.  It  is  the  capital  of  Branch 
County.  The  Michigan  Southern  is  a good 
hotel. 

Mida.  (827  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  village  of  perhaps  1,000  in- 
habitants, situated  on  a beautiful  prairie 
of  the  same  name.  The  Grand  Rapids 
& Northern  Indiqna  Railway  crosses 
here. 

Wlaitc  Miela.  (838 

miles),  is  another  prosperous  place,  in  the 
midst  of  a fine  prairie  and  farming  dis- 
trict. The  St.  Joseph's  Valley  Railway 
diverges  here. 

BSa-istol,  Eaad.  (849  miles),  is  very 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  St.  Joseph’s 
River.  It  is  a thriving  village. 

Ellclaart,  laid.  (857  miles),  at 


the  junction  of  the  Elkhart  and  St.  Jo- 
seph Rivers,  is  a place  of  over  8,300  in- 
habitants, possesses  a fine  w^ater-power, 
and  is  one  of  the  principal  shipping 
points  for  Elkhart  County.  The  Air- 
Line  and  Michigan  Southern  Branches  of 
the  road  unite  at  this  point. 

The  Railroad  Eating-House  and  Hotel, 
at  the  depot,  is  a good  house.  There  is 
a handsome  school-building  and  many 
fine  residences.  The  railroad  company 
has  extensive  shops  at  this  place,  for 
manufacturing  and  repairing  locomotives, 
cars,  etc. 

AIR-LINE. 

Stations. — Delta,  708;  Wauseon,  715; 
Stryker,  761  ; Bryan,  769  ; Edgerton, 
779;  Butler,  786;  Waterloo,  793;  Ken- 
dallville,  807 ; Ligonier,  823 ; Goshen, 
837  ; Elkhart,  857. 

'Wanseoia,  O.  (715  miles),  one 
of  the  liveliest  villages  in  Northwestern 
Ohio,  is  32  miles  west  of  Toledo,  on  the 
air-line.  It  is  the  capital  of  Fulton 
County,  and  has  a handsome  court-house, 
academy,  etc.  Population  2,000.  Good 
hotel  accommodations. 

ISryaiia,  O.  (769  miles),  is  an  old 
village,  the  capital  of  Williams  County.  It 
has  two  newspapers,  a collegiate  school, 
county  buildings,  etc.  ; population,  3,000. 
It  is  celebrated  for  its  artesian  well,  from 
which  fish  that  have  no  eyes  are  some- 
times ejected.  Bryan  has  two  good 
hotels,  an  extensive  tannery,  and  a large 
machine-shop. 

Edgertom,  O.  (779  miles),  is  a 
handsome  but  small  village,  with  a popu- 
lation of  1,200.  It  is  located  on  the  Lit- 
tle St.  Joseph’s  River,  a beautiful  stream 
that  rises  only  18  miles  from  Lake  Erie 
and  flows  southward  over  100  miles  to 
Fort  Wayne,  where  it  joins  the  Maumee, 
which  flows  thence  to  Toledo,  emptying 
into  the  lake  20  miles  from  the  source  of 
the  St.  Joseph. 

Between  this  station  and  Wauseon  the 
Air-line  passes  through  some  finely-undu- 
lating, well-watered,  and  heavily-timbered 
country. 

ISwtler,  Bud.  (786  miles),  is  at 
the  junction  of  the  proposed  Detroit 
Eel  River  Railway  ; ^0])u\dii\on,  1,200.  It 
has  a handsome  school-building  and 
21 


Waterloo.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[La  Porte. 


several  cliurclies,  a machine-shop,  a 
carriage-manufactory,  and  extensive  stave 
and  cooper  works  ; also  woollen-mills  and 
flou ring-mills.  The  name  of  the  place 

was  formerly  Jarvis  or  Varristown. 

Waterloo,  Sad.  (793  miles),  is 
a rapidly-growing  village  of  1,500  popula- 
tion. It  is  in  one  of  the  finest  wheat  dis- 
tricts in  the  West,  and  its  Star  Mill  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  finest  flouring-mills  in 
the  State.  Near  here  are  the  famous 
sink-holes  or  underground  lakes  ; one  of 
which  the  Air-line  crosses,  and  into  which 
immense  quantities  of  earth,  trees,  and 
old  ties,  were  thrown  before  the  track 
could  be  made  permanent,  so  that  for 
over  ten  years  the  track  ran  around  the 
sink.  The  Air-line  Sink-hole  is  3 miles 
west  of  Waterloo,  and  is  about  500  feet 
across.  Here  is  the  crossing  of  the  Fori 
Wayne^  Jacks07i  cfi  Saginaw  Railway. 

LenVs  Hotel  and  Eagle  Hotel  are  both 
good  houses. 

Several  beautiful  lakes  lie  to  the  north 
of  the  station,  and  Clear  Lake  is  a fine 
summer  resort. 

Meiidailviile,  Ssid.  (807  miles), 
is  the  largest  town  in  Northeastern 
Indiana  on  the  Air-line ; population  3,000. 
The  Tremont  House  is  a first-class  hotel. 

A beautiful  and  very  deep  lake,  one 
mile  long,  lies  on  the  east  side,  and  a 
smaller  lake  on  the  west.  The  Grand 
Rapids  cfi  Northern  Indiana  Railway 
crosses  here  ; and  the  place  is  essentially 
a railroad  town.  There  is  a national 
bank,  nine  churches,  and  a splendid 
school-house. 

The  village  is  surrounded  by  a fine 
rolling  country ; and  a few  miles  north  of 
it  are  the  celebrated  Hoosier  Jean  Wool- 
len works  and  Rome  City  water-power. 
Kendallville  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Tenth  Congressional  District,  and  most 
of  the  conventions  are  held  here. 

liid.  (823  miles),  is  a 
town  of  about  1,500  inhabitants.  It  has 
a fine  school-building  and  several 
churches. 

Mier'^s  Block  is  the  largest  store-build- 
ing between  Chicago  and  Toledo. 

The  Helmer  House  is  well  kept. 

A beautiful  river  flows  past  the  town, 
and  the  Air-line  crosses  the  same  stream 
at  several  points  between  Ligonier  and 
Kendallville.  The  Haw-Patch  Prairie, 
22 


north  of  this  station,  is  considered  one  of 
the  finest  grain-growing  districts  in  the 
West. 

dosSiCM,  (837  miles),  is  the 

capital  of  Elkhart  County,  and  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  right  bank  of  Elk- 
hart River,  which  furnishes  a fine  water- 
power for  a number  of  mills  and  shops. 
It  contains  about  4,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  the  junction  of  the  Warsaw  branch  of 
the  Grand  Rapids  dc  Indiana  Railway. 
The  Court-House  is  well  built,  and  there 
are  many  handsome  suburban  residences. 
The  surrounding  country  affords  the  best 
of  roads,  and  consequently  is  a natural 
driving  park.  The  Julian  House  is  gener- 
ally considered  the  best  hotel. 

Ellkliart,  ladl.  (857  miles).  {See 
page  21.) 

Mislaawalca,  liad.  (868  miles), 
on  the  St.  Joseph’s  River,  is  surrounded 
by  a rich  agricultural  country,  possesses 
an  excellent  water-power,  and  has  a fine 
public  school-building.  The  works  of  the 
St.  Joseph  Iron  Company  are  situated 
here.  There  is  an  abundance  of  iron-ore 
in  the  vicinity.  The  river  is  navigable 
for  small  steamboats.  The  Milburn 
House  is  considered  the  best  hotel.  Pop- 
ulation 4,000.  A railway  is  projected 
which  will  intersect  the  Lake  Shore  db 
Michigan  Southern  Railway. 

^oatli  ISead,  lad.  (872  miles), 
the  capital  of  St.  Joseph  County,  is  pleas- 
antly situated  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  St.  Joseph  River,  which  by  means 
of  a dam  at  this  point  furnishes  an  im- 
mense water-power  for  numerous  mills, 
etc.  There  are  a number  of  churches  in 
the  village,  which  is  also  the  site  of  Notre 
Dame  College — a Roman  Catholic  insti- 
tution of  considerable  note.  Population 
8,000.  The  St.  Joseph  is  a first-class 
house. 

l®orte,  Imd.  (899  miles),  is 
on  the  edge  of  the  pjrairie  of  the  same 
name,  and  is  surrounded  by  an  exceed- 
ingly rich  agricultural  country.  It  is  at 
the  junction  of  a railway  extending  to 
Plymouth  on  the  Pittsburg,  Port  Wayne 
& Chicago  Railway,  and  to  Peru,  the 
junction  of  the  Indianapolis,  Peru  & Chi- 
cago, and  the  Toledo,  Wabash  & Western 
Railways.  The  Indiana  Medical  College 
is  located  here ; population  about  8,000. 
The  best  hotel  is  the  Teegarden  House. 


Stations.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  III. 


[Canton. 


Cliicago,  111,  958  miles).  {See 
page  6.) 

MOUTB  III. 

NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO. 

Via  Allentown  Line,  which  includes  the  Cen- 
tral Railway  of  Neio  Jersey,  Lebanon  Val- 
ley, Pennsylvania  Central,  and  Pittsburg, 
Fo7‘t  Wayne  <&  Chicago  Railways.  {Time, 
36  hr s.— Fare,  $22.) 

As  far  as  Pittsburg,  this  route  has 
been  elaborately  described  in  “Appletons’ 
Hand-Book  of  American  Travel — 
Northern  and  Eastern  Tour,”  and  we 
shall  therefore  make  here  but  the  most 
general  allusions  to  it. 

Leaving  New  York,  the  traveller  crosses 
the  Hudson  River,  and,  taking  the  cars 
of  the  Central  Railway  of  New  Jersey, 
at  Jersey  City,  is  whirled  through  Eliza- 
beth, Plainfield,  Somerville,  and  other 
flourishing  places  ; is  afforded  a glimpse 
of  the  mountain-region  of  New  Jersey, 
and  is  finally  landed  at  Easton,  Pennsyl- 
vania, where,  without  changing  cars,  he 
is  transferred  to  the  Lebanon  Valley  Rail- 
way, as  far  as  Harrisburg,  passing 
through  Easton,  Allentown,  Reading,  and 
Lebanon,  and  seeing  some  of  the  most 
attractive  landscape  in  the  State.  At 
Harrisburg,  the  cars  of  this  line  take 
the  track  of  the  Pennsylvania  Central 
Railway,  which  they  follow  to  Pittsburg, 
in  their  course,  passing  over  the  most 
attractive  portions  of  the  Central  Road, 
including  the  Susquehanna  Valley,  the 
crossing  of  the  Alleghanies,  the  superb 
mountain  views  near  Altoona,  the  val- 
ley of  the  Juniata,  and  other  points  of 
interest. 

At  Pittsburg  we  leave  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Central  for  the  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne 
Chicago  Railway,  though  through- 
passengers  need  not  change  cars  if  they 
have  taken  the  precaution  to  seat  them- 
selves in  one  of  the  New  York  and  Chi- 
cago through-cars.  This  road  passes 
through  some  of  the  richest  land  in 
Ohio. 

Stations. — Pittsburg,  431  miles  from 
New  York;  Rochester,  457  (junction  of 
Cleveland  & Pittsburg  Railway) ; Home- 
wood,  466  (connects  with  Newcastle 
Branch);  Enon,  477;  Columbiana,  491; 
Salem,  501 ; Alliance,  515  (crossing  of 
Cleveland  & Pittsburg  Railway) ; Canton, 


533;  Massillon,  541 ; Orrville,  555  (cross- 
ing of  Cleveland,  Zanesville  & Cincinnati 
Railway);  Wooster,  566;  Loudonville, 
588 ; Mansfield,  607  (crossing  of  San- 
dusky, Mansfield  & Newark  Railway); 
Crestline,  620  (crossing  of  Cleveland, 
Columbus,  Cincinnati,  & Indianapolis 
Railway,  and  at  Gallon,  four  miles  south 
on  that  road,  forms  a junction  with  the 
Bellefontaine  Railway  Line);  Bucyrus, 
632 ; Forest,  661  (crossing  of  Cincinnati, 
Sandusky  & Cleveland  Railway) ; Lafay- 
ette, 684;  Lima,  692  (Crossing  of  Day- 
ton  & Michigan  Railway) ; Delphos,  706  ; 
Van  Wert,  719 ; Fort  Wayne,  751  (cross- 
ing Toledo,  Wabash  & Western  Railway) ; 
Columbia,  770 ; Pierceton,  782 ; War- 
saw, 791;  Bourbon,  804;  Plymouth,  815 
(crossing  of  Chicago,  Cincinnati  & Louis- 
ville Railway);  Wanatah,  846  (crossing 
of  Louisville,  New  Albany  & Chicago  Rail- 
way); Valparaiso,  855;  Clarke,  875  ; 
R.  I.  Junction,  892 ; Chicago,  899.  . 

Hoclaestei*,  IPa.  (457  miles),  is 
on  the  left  bank  of  Beaver  River,  at  its 
mouth,  26  miles  below  Pittsburg,  on  the 
Ohio.  This  is  the  junction  of  the  Cleve- 
land d'  Pittsburg  Railway. 

ISoiiicwoo^,  (466  miles),  is 
a small  village,  where  the  Newcastle 
Branch  diverges. 

^aleisa,  O.  (501  miles),  is  one  of 
the  most  important  towns  in  the  eastern 
portion  of  the  State.  It  is  a beautiful 
place,  surrounded  by  a very  rich  and 
highly-cultivated  farming  country,  and  is 
interested  in  manufactures  of  various 
kinds. 

Alliance,  O.  (515  miles),  though 
small,  is  already,  on  account  of  its  rail- 
way connections,  a rapidly-growing  place, 
destined  to  become  one  of  the  most  thriv- 
ing in  this  section  of  the  State.  This  is 
the  crossing  of  the  Cleveland  d Pitts- 
burg Railway. 

Canton,  (533  miles),  the  capital 
of  Stark  County,  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  Nisuishillen  Creek, 
surrounded  by  a rich  farming  country, 
which  enjoys  the  distinction  of  sending 
more  wheat  to  market  than  any  other 
county  in  the  State.  Good  coal  and  lime- 
stone are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  the 
advantages  afforded  for  manufacturing,  by 
the  fine  water-power  which  the  creek 
furnishes,  enhance  the  prosperity  and 
23 


Massillon.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Warsaw. 


importance  of  the  town,  which  contains 
a number  of  manufactories. 

Massillon,  (541  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  town,  situated  on  the  Tusca- 
rawas River  and  the  Ohio  Canal^  by  which 
it  has  water  communication  with  Lake 
Erie.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  is  substan- 
tially and  compactly  built,  and  contains 
many  handsome  residences.  The  section 
of  country  in  which  it  lies  is  full  of  coal 
and  limestone,  is  abundantly  supplied  with 
water-power,  and  is  noted  for  its  agricul- 
tural wealth.  Massillon  is,  therefore,  a 
place  of  considerable  trade ; and  largely 
exports  the  cereals.  It  is  also  noted  for 
the  amount  of  wool  which  finds  a market 
here. 

Orville,  O.  (555  miles),  is  at  the 
junction  of  the  Cleveland^  Zanesville  & 
Cincinnati  Railway, 

^Vooster,  O,  (566  miles),  is  a pros- 
perous and  rapidly-growing  place.  Pleas- 
antly situated  on  Killhuck  Creek^  it  is  in 
the  midst  of  a beautifully  undulating 
country,  of  which  it  commands  a fine 
view.  It  is  compactly  built,  is  the  capi- 
tal of  Wayne  County,  and  is  the  seat  of 
several  manufactories,  and  the  centre  of 
a large  trade. 

HiOM^oiiville,  O.  (588  miles),  is 
a flourishing  village,  with  a large  local 
trade. 

MaBtslSeM,  O.  (60Y  miles),  is 
another  of  the  compactly-built,  bustling 
towns  with  which  the  State  is  dotted.  It 
is  situated  on  a commanding  elevation,  in 
a thickly-populated  and  highly-culti- 
vated region.  Many  of  the  residences 
which  it  contains  are  very  handsome,  and 
are  surrounded  by  spacious  ornamental 
grounds.  Some  of  the  churches  are  no- 
ticeable, and  one  remarkably  so.  Mans- 
field is  the  capital  of  Richland  County, 
which  latter  owes  its  name  to  the  fertility 
of  its  soil.  The  Sandusky^  Mansfield  do 
Newark  Railway  crosses  here. 

Crestline,  O.  (620  miles),  is  a 
thriving  village,  which,  if  not  actually 
the  creation  of  the  railways,  is  mainly  in- 
debted to  them  for  its  prosperity.  The 
road  here  connects  with  the  Cleveland^ 
Columbus^  Cincinnati  & Indianapolis 
Raihmy^  which  has  absorbed  the  Bclle- 
fontaine  line,  and  is  often  so  called. 

ISncyrns,  O.  (632  miles),  the  cap- 
ital of  Crawford  County,  is  situated  on 
24 


the  Sandtisky  River,  It  is  a thriving 
village.  In  its  vicinity  are  several  min- 
eral springs,  and  a well  of  inflammable 
gas.  An  excellent  specimen  of  a masto- 
don was  found  in  a marsh  near  here  in 
1838. 

I'^orest,  O.  (661  miles),  is  a village 
at  the  junction  of  the  Cincinnati^  San- 
dusky & Cleveland  Railway, 

]Lima,  O.  (692  miles),  the  capital 
of  Allen  County,  is  situated  upon  the 
Ottawa  River,  and  is  a pleasant  place. 
There  is  some  manufacturing  done  here. 
The  boast  of  the  village  is  its  handsome 
Union  School  building.  The  Dayton  & 
Michigan  Railway^  now  managed  by  the 
Cincinnati^  Hamilton  dc  Dayton  Railway^ 
connects  here. 

O.  (706  miles),  is  a thriv- 
ing village  upon  the  Miami  Extension 
Canal^  which  furnishes  a fine  water-power. 

Van  'Wert,  O.  (716  miles),  capi- 
tal of  the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  a 
small  village,  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
sandy  ridge,  rising  some  20  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  plain. 

Fort  'Wayne,  (751  miles), 

is  known  as  the  “Summit  City,”  from 
the  fact  that  it  is  the  point  from  which 
the  water  runs  east  and  west.  It  is  built 
upon  the  site  of  the  “ Tightwee  village  ” 
of  the  Miami  tribe  of  Indians,  at  the 
point  where  the  Maumee  River  is  formed 
by  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Joseph  and 
St.  Mary’s  Rivers.  The  Wahash  efi  Erie 
Canal  also  passes  through  this  place, 
which  is  the  capital  of  Allen  County.  It 
has  grown  rapidly,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
important  towns  in  the  State.  In  1794 
the  fort,  from  which  the  city  takes  its 
name,  was  built  here,  and  was  retained 
as  a military  station  until  1819.  Fort 
'W'ayne  is  an  important  railway  centre,  the 
following  roads  connecting  here  : Toledo,^ 
Wabash  Western^  Grand  Rapids  & In- 
diana,, Eort  Wayne,,  Jackson  dc  Saginaw, 
and  Eort  Wayne,  Muncie  d:  Cincinnati 
Railways, 

Coiioia'foia,  Siacl.  (770  miles),  the 
capital  of  'Whitley  County,  is  upon  a 
branch  of  Eel  River, 

fisacl.  (791  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  place,  pleasantly  situated  on 
Tippecanoe  River,  It  is  the  capital  of 
Kosciusko  County,  and  does  considerable 
milling  and  manufacturing. 


Plymouth.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  IV.  [Cadiz  Junction. 


Si9.d«  (815  miles),  is 
surrounded  by  a fine  agricultural  country, 
and  is  advantageously  situated  upon  the 
bank  of  Yellow  River,  It  is  the  capital 
of  Marshall  County,  and  does  a thriving 
business.  The  Chicago^  Cincinnati  & 
Louisville  Railway  intersects  at  this 
point. 

WaBiatali,  Sndl,  (846  miles),  is  a 
small  village  at  the  junction  of  the  Louis- 
ville^ New  Albany  Chicago  Railway, 
Valparaiso,  Saadi.  (855  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Porter  County,  and  is  situ- 
ated upon  Salt  Creek, 

CSaicago,  SlI.  (899  miles).  {^See 
page  6.) 


MOUTE  IV. 

NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO, 

Via  Pan-handle  Route,,  icMch  includes  the 
New  Jersey  Railway  to  Philadelphia.,  the 
Pennsylvania  CenPt'al.,  and  the  Pittsburg., 
Cincinnati  <&■  St.  Louis  Railway.,  which 
includes  the  Columbus.,  Chicago  & Indiana 
Central  Raihjoays,  (Time.,  36  hrs. — Fare., 
$22.) 

From  New  York  to  Philadelphia  this 
route  passes  through  the  rich  garden- 
lands  of  New  Jersey,  and  is  dotted  with 
beautiful  towns  at  intervals  of  every  few 
miles.  It  will  be  found  described  in 
Appletons’  Hand-Book  op  American 
Travel — Northern  and  Eastern  Tour. 
The  trip  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg 
is  described  in  the  same  volume.  A 
few  general  remarks  in  regard  to  it  will 
be  found,  as  introductory  to  Route  III.,  in 
this  book. 

At  Pittsburg,  the  tourist  has  his  choice 
of  two  routes,  one  of  which  has  just  been 
described,  the  other  is  the  one  which  we 
shall  now  take.  We  will  therefore  com- 
mence our  detailed  description  with  the 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Railway. 

Stations. — Pittsburg,  445  miles  from 
New  York  ; Mansfield  (connects  with 
Chartiers  Railway),  453 ; Burgettstown, 
472 ; Steubenville  (connects  with  Cleve- 
land & Pittsburg  Railway),  488  ; Cadiz 
Junction,  513  ; Cadiz,  519  ; New  Market, 
522 ; Dennison,  538  ; Coshocton,  569  ; 
Dresden,  583;  Frazeysburg,  589;  New- 
ark (connects  with  Central  Ohio  and  Lake 
Erie  Divisions  of  Baltimore  & Ohio  Rail- 
way), 605;  Pataskala,  620*  Columbus 
2 


(connects  with  all  diverging  railways), 
638 ; Pleasant  Valley,  656  ; Milford  (con- 
nects with  Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincin- 
nati & Indiana  Railway),  666 ; Urbana 
(connects  with  Atlantic  & Great  Western, 
and  Cincinnati,  Sandusky  & Cleveland 
Railways),  685 ; Piqua  (connects  with 
Dayton  & Michigan  Railway),  711;  Brad- 
ford Junction  (the  Indianapolis  line  di- 
verges), 721 ; Pikeville,  731 ; Union  (con- 
nects with  Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cin- 
cinnati & Indiana  Railway),  742  ; Ridge- 
ville,  753  ; Dunkirk,  765  ; Hartford,  775  ; 
Jonesboro,  788  ; Marion,  793  ; Xenia,  805  ; 
Bunker  Hill  (connects  with  Indianapolis, 
Peru  & Chicago  Railway),  818  ; Logans- 
port  (connects  with  Chicago  & Peoria 
lines ; also  with  Toledo,  Wabash  & West- 
ern Railway),  833  ; Royal  Centre,  845  ; 
Winamac,  859  ; La  Crosse  (connects  with 
Louisville,  New  Albany  k Chicago  Rail- 
way), 883;  Hebron,  898;  Crown  Point, 
908  ; Schererville,  915  ; Chicago,  949. 

(445  miles),  the  second 
city  in  size  in  Pennsylvania,  is  noted  for 
the  enormous  extent  of  its  manufacturing, 
coal,  iron,  and  oil  interests.  It  is  situ- 
ated at  the  point  where  the  Alleghany  and 
Monongahela  Rivers  unite  to  form  the 
Ohio.  It  is  fully  described  on  page  123 
of  Appletons’  Hand-Book  op  American 
Travel — Northern  and  Eastern  Tour. 
Crossing  the  Ohio,  the  road  traverses  the 
neck  of  land  formed  by  the  great  bend 
of  the  river,  passing  through  a portion 
of  West  Virginia,  and  then  crossing  the 
river  into  the  State  of  Ohio. 

(488  miles)  stands 
upon  an  elevated  plain,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Ohio  River,  which,  at  this  point, 
runs  north  and  south,  and  is  one-third 
of  a mile  wide.  Being  the  county-seat 
of  Jefferson  County,  it  contains  the 
county  buildings.  It  has  a number  of 
churches,  mills,  and  manufactories,  and 
is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  trade.  It 
is  the  seat  of  an  academy  for  boys,  and 
of  a noted  female  seminary,  the  latter 
being  delightfully  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  river.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity 
is  very  attractive.  Connection  is  here 
made  with  the  Cleveland  & Pittsburg  Rail- 
way. 

Cadiz  Jaactioii  (513  miles)  is 
where  the  Cadiz  Branch,  6 miles  in 
length,  diverges. 


25 


Cadiz.] 


WESTEPwN  TOUR. 


[Columbus. 


Csoiliz,  O.^  couDty-seat  of  Harrison 
County,  reached  by  the  Cadiz  Branch,  is 
pleasantly  situated  in  the  midst  of  hills, 
containing  valuable  coal-mines.  It  is  well 
built,  and  is  the  principal  market  of  one 
of  the  greatest  wool-producing  regions 
of  the  State. 

CosIioctoBi,  O.  (569  miles),  the 
capital  of  the  county  of  the  same  name, 
is  built  upon  four  natural  terraces,  rising 
one  above  the  other,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Muskingum  River ^ which  is  formed 
by  the  junction  of  the  Tuscarawas  and 
Walhonding  Rivers,  just  above  the  vil- 
lage. The  Ohio  Canal^  connecting  the 
Ohio  River  with  Lake  Erie,  passes  through 
the  village,  and  furnishes  a good  water- 
power. 

B>i*esdeBi  (583  miles)  is  a place  of 
great  business  activity,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Muskingum  River,  It 
possesses  a fine  water-power,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  coal  and  iron  mines.  It  is 
connected  with  the  Ohio  Canal  by  a 
branch  two  miles  in  length. 

Mewai'le,  <!>•  (605  miles),  is  situated 
on  a level  plain,  at  the  junction  of  the 
three  forks  of  the  Licking  River ^ and  in 
the  midst  of  a rich  agricultural  country. 
It  is  a handsome  place,  the  streets  being 
wide,  and  the  stores,  churches,  dwellings, 
etc.,  well  built.  It  is  a manufacturing 
as  well  as  a commercial  place ; is  upon 
the  line  of  the  Ohio  Canal ; is  within  8 
miles  of  a fine  bituminous  coal-mine ; is 
the  capital  of  Licking  County,  and  is 
quite  a railway  centre,  the  Central  Ohio^ 
Branch  of  the  Baltimore  Ohio^  and 
Sandusky^  Mansfield  & Newark  Railways^ 
connecting  with  the  Rittshurg^  Cincinnati 
<fc  St,  Louis  Railway^  at  this  point. 

O.  (638  miles),  is  not 
only  the  capital,  but  is,  in  other  respects, 
one  of  the  most  important  cities  of  the 
State.  Its  population,  by  the  census  of 
18 70,  does  not  vary  more  than  a few 
hundreds  from  32,000.  A large  and 
populous  suburb  which  belongs  to  the  city 
proper,  but  is  outside  the  corporation 
limits,  is  not  included.  The  streets  are 
very  wide,  and  are  all  regularly  laid  out 
in  squares.  Broadway  is  120  feet  wide, 
for  a distance  of  over  two  miles  in  length. 
It  has  a double  avenue  (four  rows)  of 
trees,  alternate  maple  and  elm,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  streets  in  the 
26 


world.  Many  of  the  handsomest  residences 
in  the  city  are  on  this  street.  High, 
the  principal  business  street,  and  some 
others,  are  100  feet  wide.  There  is  a 
mile  of  Nicolson  pavement  on  High 
Street,  and  another  mile  of  wooden  block 
pavement  on  Town  Street,  which  com- 
petes with  Broad  for  fine  residences.  In 
the  centre  of  the  city,  occupying  the 
square  of  ten  acres,  between  High  and 
Third,  and  Broad  and  State,  is  Capita^ 
Square^  surrounded  by  majestic  elms,  and 
beautifully  laid  out.  It  is  purposed  to 
make  it  a complete  arboretum  of  Ohio 
trees,  of  which  many  varieties  are  already 
represented. 

The  Capitol  building  is  one  of  the 
finest  possessed  by  any  State  in  the 
Union.  It  is  a classical  structure,  in  the 
Doric  order,  with  a dome.  It  is  constructed 
of  limestone,  resembling  marble,  from  the 
State  quarries  only  three  miles  distant. 
It  has  a fa9ade  of  more  than  300  feet. 
Elevation  to  the  top  of  rotunda,  157  feet ; 
depth,  184  feet;  superficial  area,  55,936 
square  feet.  The  other  State  buildings 
here  are : 

The  State  Penitentiary^  situated  upon 
the  left  bank  of  the  Scioto  River,  just 
belov/  the  mouth  of  the  Olentangy,  a 
large  and  imposing  collection  of  build- 
ings, covering  ten  acres,  to  which  ten 
acres  have  been  added  recently,  for  an 
enlargement.  The  main  building  fronts 
the  entire  ten  acres,  with  an  imposing 
limestone  structure,  in  castellated  style, 
Italian  in  the  centre.  Most  of  the  mason- 
work  of  both  the  Penitentiary  and  the 
Capitol  was  done  by  convicts. 

The  Central  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum  was 
burned  in  November,  1868,  and  in  1870 
the  old  grounds  were  sold  for  $200,500, 
and  a new  and  elegant  series  of  build- 
ings, en  echelon^  commenced  on  300  acres 
of  elevated  ground,  west  of  the  city. 
These  buildings  will  be  in  the  Franco- 
Italian  style,  with  a frontage  of  about 
1,200  feet,  depth  of  300;  centre  tower, 
165  feet  high ; capacity  for  600  patients ; 
and  fine  quarters  for  officers  and  attend- 
ants as  well.  Adjoining  these,  grounds, 
to  the  south,  are  the  grounds  (123  acres) 
of  the  Idiot  Asylum^  a plain  Gothic  struct- 
ure, 272  by  1*98  feet;  tower,  132  feet 
high. 

The  new  Blind  Asylum^  on  the  grounds 


Columbus.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  CHICAGO,  ROUTE  IV. 


[Columbus. 


of  the  old  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city, 
will  be  a building  340  by  210  feet,  a fine 
specimen  of  Gothic  architecture  (in  stone) 
of  the  Tudor  period. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  cen- 
trally located  on  large  and  handsome 
grounds  on  Town  Street.  It  is  built  in 
Franco-Italian  style,  with  a Mansard  roof. 
It  has  a magnificent  frontage  on  Town 
Street  of  400  feet,  and  runs  back  380 
feet.  It  has  numerous  towers,  the  centre 
one  of  which  is  140  feet  high.  The  build- 
ing has  a superficial  area  of  twenty-two 
million  feet.  The  State  has  also  a large 
well-built  arsenal. 

The  United  States  Arsenal  is  quite  a 
feature.  It  is  located  on  large  and 
handsome  grounds,  beautifully  wooded. 
It  is  in  the  northeastern  suburb  of 
the  city,  on  the  line  of  the  Panhandle 
and  Central  Ohio  Railroads.  There  are 
numerous  buildings,  offices,  quarters, 
armory,  store-houses,  and  an  immense 
central  structure,  a detailed  description 
of  which  would  occupy  too  much  space. 
There  is  a fine  drive  to  the  arsenal,  and 
there  are  beautiful  drives  laid  out  through 
and  around  the  grounds. 

The  city  has  the  City-Hall^  facing 
Capitol  Square  on  the  south  side  of  State 
Street — a building  in  pure  Gothic,  adapted 
to  modern  wants  and  uses,  187-^  feet  by 
80.  It  has  a small  central  tower  138  feet 
high.  Height  to  ridge  of  roof,  98  feet. 
The  first  and  second  stories  are  devoted 
to  rooms  for  various  public  uses.  In  the 
third  story  is  the  audience^chamber,  with 
seats  for  2,830 — one  of  the  largest  in  the 
Union.  The  High  School  is  a fine  build- 
ing in  the  simple  Norman  or  church 
architectural  style.  There  are  numerous 
other  public-school  buildings  in  Italian 
style,  poorly  treated. 

The  Holly  Water-WorJcs  building  is 
near  the  junction  of  the  Scioto  and  Olen- 
tangy.  It  is  132  by  98  feet.  Stack  110 
feet  high.  Machinery  500  horse-power, 
with  rotary  engine  of  400  horse-power 
extra,  and  two  rotary-engine  pumps  for 
fire  purposes  only. 

The  city  owns  other  unimportant  build- 
ings, including  the  old  city-hall  and 
market-house,  city  prison,  engine-houses 
of  steam  fire  department,  several  of  the 
six  bridges  across  the  Scioto,  etc.  It 
also  owns  the  beautiful  Goodale  Fark^ 


given  by  Hr.  Lincoln  Goodale,  consist- 
ing of  about  40  acres  of  native  forest 
beautifully  improved  and  well  kept,  with 
buildings  for  superintendent.  This  park 
is  at  the  north  end  of  the  city.  At  the 
south  end  the  city  owns  about  an  equal 
quantity  similar  in  all  respects,  called  the 
City  Park,  It  also  owns  the  very  exten- 
sive and  costly  sewerage  system  of  the  city. 

The  county  {Franklin)  owns  only  a 
very  poor  Court-House  with  county  offices 
attached,  and  a worse  Poor  House  or 
County  Infirmary — which  has  recently 
been  replaced  by  a fine  structure  on  a 
large  farm  recently  purchased  near  the 
city. 

There  are  several  other  charities  with 
buildings  of  no  note,  but  doing  good 
work,  and  all  out  of  debt.  The  Hare 
Orphans'  Home^  the  Hannah  Heil  Mission^ 
and  Lying-in  Hospital  may  be  mentioned. 
The  beautiful  female  seminary  St.  Mary^s 
of  the  Springs  adjoins  the  city  on  the 
east  near  the  Water-  Cure.  There  is  also 
a Catholic  Asylum  for  the  Reclamation  of 
Fallen  Women  west  of  the  city,  and  the 
Sisters  of  Mercy  have  a fine  hospital  in 
the  city. 

Starling  Medical  College  is  the  delight 
of  architects,  as  one  of  the  finest  speci- 
mens of  Norman  castellated  architecture 
extant. 

Capital  University  is  a rather  unpre- 
tending building  in  Italian  style,  sur- 
rounded by  beautiful  grounds  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  city. 

The  Odd-Fellows'  Hall  is  a fine  speci- 
men of  classical  Italian,  and  opposite  is 
the  Opera-House  Blocks  a beautiful  sample 
of  American  street  architecture,  in  the 
florid  Italian  style. 

The  Opera-House  in  this  block  has 
been  spoken  of  by  Mr.  Jefferson,  Mr. 
Forrest,  and  other  eminent  actors,  as  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  and  chaste  in  de- 
sign anywhere  in  this  country. 

Churches  are  numerous,  and  some  are 
fine  specimens  of  the  decorative  period 
of  Gothic  architecture. 

The  grounds  of  the  Franklin  County 
Agriculturcd  Society  (83  acres,  mile  track), 
on  the  eastern  border  of  the  city,  are  the 
finest  in  the  State.  Oleniangy  Park  has 
a fine  half-mile  ring  north  of  the  city. 
There  are  several  cemeteries,  the  most 
beautiful  one  being  Green  Lawn. 

21 


Milford.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Loganspout 


The  city  has  a large  wholesale  trade, 
and  its  manufactures  reach  every  State 
in  the  Union,  and  every  country  on  the 
continent.  There  is  a considerable  ex- 
port trade  direct  to  Europe  of  manufac- 
tures of  various  kinds. 

The  opening  of  the  Colmnhus  & Hocking 
Valley  Railway  in  August,  1870,  was  the 
greatest  event  in  the  history  of  Columbus. 
No  other  of  its  numerous  roads  has  done 
nearly  as  much  for  it.  The  Hocking 
Valley  penetrates  a very  rich  iron  and 
coal  region,  and  already  capital  is  seek- 
ing investments  in  rolling-mills,  furnaces, 
and  all  manufactures  of  iron.  The  popu- 
lation of  Columbus  has  nearly  doubled 
since  the  last  census,  by  steady,  perma- 
nent growth.  The  census  of  1870  finds 
the  city  only  on  the  threshold  of  the 
increase  to  result  from  the  opening  of 
the  mineral  resources  of  Southern  Ohio 
by  the  Hocking  Yalley  road,  which  is 
already  one  of  the  heaviest  feeders  of  all 
other  roads  centring  here.  The  Pan- 
handle and  Little  Miami  Railways  have 
extensive  shops  here. 

The  following  railroads  centre  at  Co- 
lumbus : The  Cleveland  6c  Columbus  ; the 
Central  Ohio;  Pittsburg^  Columbus 
Cincinnati  ; Little  Miami  and  Columbus  6c 
Xenia ; Columbus^  Chicago  6c  Indiana 
Central ; Columbus  6c  Hocking  Valley. 
These  roads  have  recently  been  consoli- 
dated under  the  management  of  three 
great  lines,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Hocking  Yalley  and  its  branches.  The 
Baltimore  6c  Ohio  absorbs  the  Central 
Ohio.  The  Pittsburg^  Cincinnati  6c  St. 
Louis  Railway  (Pan-handle  Route)  ab- 
sorbs all  the  roads  popularly  known  as 
The  Ben  Smith  roads,”  and  the  same 
road  operates  the  Little  Miami  and  Co- 
lumbus & Xenia.  The  Bee  Line.,  Cleve- 
land., Columbus  6c  Lidianopolis  Railway 
takes  all  the  rest.  Columbus  has  no 
v/atcr  transportation,  except  by  branch 
of  the  Ohio  Canal,  an  important  carrier 
of  heavy  freights,  connecting  the  city 
with  Portsmouth  and  all  intervening 
points  to  Cleveland. 

MitPorcl,  O.  (660  miles),  is  the 
point  of  intersection  with  the  Springfield 
Branch  of  the  Cleveland.,  Columbus.,  Cin- 
cinnati 6c  Indianapolis  Railway.  It  is  a 
thriving  village  upon  Big  Darby  Creek. 

Url>a.Bia,  i>.  (685  miies),  is  a 
2S 


charming  village  in  which  some  manu- 
facturing is  done  and  which  contains 
several  churches,  banks,  and  a Sweden- 
borgian  college.  It  is  the  capital  of 
Champaign  County.  Connections  are 
made  here  with  the  Cincinnati.,  Sandusky 
6c  Cleveland  Railway.,  and  the  Atlantic  6c 
Great  Western  Division  of  the  Erie  Rail- 
way. 

O.  (711  miles),  is  noted  for 
its  charming  situation  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Great  Miami  River.,  just  at  a bend 
which  leaves  a level  plateau  between  the 
town  and  the  water’s  edge,  while  on  the 
opposite  side  the  bank  rises  somewhat 
boldly.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out, 
and  contains  a number  of  churches, 
several  newspaper  offices,  and  a town- 
hall.  There  is  a large  business  done  here 
with  the  surrounding  country,  which  is 
rich  in  agricultural  products.  This  is 
also  an  important  manufacturing  and 
milling  point,  steam  being  employed  for 
this  purpose  as  well  as  the  water-power 
afforded  by  the  river.  The  Miami  Canal 
passes  through  Piqua,  and  the  Dayton  6c 
Michigan  Railway  connects  at  this  point. 

]^r2id.ibi*d«?u.iictio]aL9  O.  (721 
miles),  is  where  the  road  branches,  one 
division  running  to  Indianapolis.,  Ind., 
the  other  to  Chicago,  III. 

Usiiom  City,  Ind.  (742  miles), 
is  upon  the  boundary-line  of  Ohio  and 
Indiana,  being  partly  in  Darke  County, 
Ohio,  and  partly  in  Randolph  County, 
Indiana.  It  is  a thriving  little  place. 
The  Cleveland,  Cohimbus  6c  Indianapolis 
Railway  connects  here. 

Marion,  Snd.*  (793  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  village  on  the  Mississinewa 
River,  surrounded  by  a rich  farming 
country. 

ISaoilter  Mill,  liad.  (818  miles), 
is  a small  village  at  the  crossing  of  the 
Indianapolis,  Peru  6c  Chicago  Railway. 

]Lo§;aiiS]poi*t,  Ind.  (833  miles), 
is  the  capital  of  Cass  County.  It  is  a 
thriving  city,  possessing  great  advantages 
from  its  railroad  connections,  and  from 
its  situation  on  the  Wabash  River  and 
Canal,  at  the  mouth  of  Eel  River.  It  is 
an  important  shipping-port  for  grain, 
pork,  and  lumber,  and  is  the  centre  of 
trade  for  a rich  agricultural  region.  It 
also  has  a valuable  water-power,  which  to 
some  extent  is  used  for  manufactures. 


NEW  YOKE  TO  CINCINNATI,  KOUTE  V.  [Akron. 


WiNIMAC.] 

The  Court-House,  one  of  the  finest  in 
the  State,  is  built  of  cut  stone.  Three  of 
the  churches  and  many  other  buildings 
in  the  city  are  also  of  stone. 

The  car-works  owned  by  the  Pittsburg, 
Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Kailroad  Company 
occupy  twenty-five  acres,  on  which  are 
nine  buildings.  Six  hundred  workmen 
are  employed.  Three  cars  per  day  can 
be  turned  out  at  these  shops. 

The  Toledo^  Wabash  & Western  Rail- 
loay  connects  here  ; also  the  Chicago  o.nd 
Peoria  lines. 

Wistamac,  Sncl.  (859  miles),  is 
situated  upon  the  Tippecanoe  River^  and  is 
the  capital  of  Pulaski  County. 

Crosse,  liacl.  (883  miles),  is 
a village  at  the  junction  with  the  Louis- 
ville^ New  Albany  & Chicago  Railway. 

Claicag’O,  111.  (949  miles).  {See 
^page  6.) 

MOV  TM  V. 

NEW  YORK  TO  CINCINNATL 
Via  Erie  Railway.  ( Time.,  30  liTS. — Fare.,  $20.) 

As  far  as  Salamanca,  New  York,  this  is 
identical  with  Route  II.  (/Seepage  15.) 
Prom  Salamanca  to  Clarksville,  Pa.,  it 
passes  through  the  oil-regions  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  has  been  described  as  Route 
III.,  page  180,  Appletons’  Hand-Book 
OP  American  Travel — Northern  and 
Eastern  Tour.  Corry  and  MeadsviUe 
are  the  principal  stations  in  Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Stations.  — New  York — Orangeville, 
555  miles ; Burghill,  658  ; Baconsburg, 
567;  Warren,  575;  Leavittsburg  (junc- 
tion of  Branches  to  Cleveland,  and  to 
Youngstown  and  Sharon),  678 ; Brace- 
ville,  682  ; Calhoun,  687  ; Ravenna  (con- 
nects with  Cleveland  & Pittsburg  Rail- 
way), 599 ; Kent,  605  ; Tallmadge,  611 ; 
Akron  (connects  with  Cleveland,  Mount 
Vernon  & Delaware  Railway),  616  ; Wads- 
worth, 629  ; Seville,  640  ; Burbank,  645  ; 
West  Salem,  652;  Polk,  658;  Ashland, 
666  ; Windsor,  674  ; Mansfield  (connects 
with  Sandusky,  Mansfield  k Newark  Rail- 
way, and  Pittsburg,  Port  Wayne  k Chi- 
cago Railway),  682  ; Ontario,  690  ; Gallon 
(crossing  of  the  Cincinnati  Division  of 
the  Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati  k 


Indianapolis  Railway),  697 ; Caledonia, 
709  ; Marion  (connects  v/ith  Cleveland, 
Columbus,  Cincinnati  & Indianapolis 
Railway),  718  ; Berwick,  724  ; Richwood, 
732;  Newton,  742;  North  Lewisburg, 
752  ; Mingo,  757  ; Urbana  (connects  with 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  k St.  Louis  Rail- 
way, and  Cincinnati,  Sandusky  k Cleve- 
land Railway),  766;  Bov/lesvillc,  773; 
Springfield,  780;  Osborne,  791;  Dayton 
(connects  with  Dayton  and  Western 
Railway),  801 ; Middletown,  826  ; Hamil- 
ton (connects  with  Cincinnati  k Indian- 
apolis Junction  Railway),  836 ; Cincinnati, 
861  (connects  with  railways  diverging, 
and  with  steamer-lines  on  the  Ohio  River). 

Os’aiag’cvilic,  O.  (555  miles),  is 
a small  village,  and  is  the  first  station  on 
this  line  in  Ohio. 

(575  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Trumbull  County,  is  quite  a hand- 
some village  on  the  Mahoning  River and 
on  the  Pennsylvania  & Ohio  Canal.  It 
contains  several  founderies  and  mills,  and 
is  the  business  centre  of  one  of  the  most 
noted  cheese-producing  sections  of  the 
State.  In  the  vicinity  there  is  abundance 
of  coal  and  iron-ore. 

(578  miles), 

is  the  junction  of  branches  to  Cleveland, 
and  to  Youngstown  and  Sharon. 

ISaveniaa,  O.  (599  miles),  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Pennsylvania  & Ohio  Canal^ 
which  furnishes  a good  water-power.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Portage  County,  and  is 
noted  for  its  manufactures,  the  chief  of 
which  is  carriage-making.  It  is  the  point 
of  shipment  for  large  quantities  of  cheese, 
wool,  grain,  and  butter.  The  Cleveland  <b 
Pittsburg  Railway  connects  at  this  point. 

Aliroii,  O.  (616  miles),  one  of  the 
most  attractive  and  thriving  places  in 
the  State,  is  the  capital  of  Summit  County, 
and  possesses  unusual  advantages,  being 
at  the  junction  of  the  Ohio  & Pennsyl- 
vania and  the  Ohio  Erie  Canals.,  which 
afford  ample  means  of  shipment  for  the 
immense  quantities  of  grain  which  are 
grown  in  this  region.  The  canal  and  the 
Little  Cuyahoga  River  furnish  a fine 
water-power  for  a large  number  of  mills, 
factories,  and  other  mechanical  establish- 
ments. In  the  vicinity  are  large  beds  of 
mineral  fire-proof  paint,  which  is  being 
used  in  different  parts  of  the  country. 
The  situation  is  a fine  one,  being  400  feet 

29 


Ashland.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Dayton. 


above  the  level  of  Lake  Erie,  36  miles 
distant.  The  Cleveland^  Mount  Vernon  d: 
Delaware  Railway  connects  at  this  point. 

O.  (666  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Ashland  County,  which  for  fer- 
tility is  unsurpassed  by  any  portion  of 
the  State.  A large  general  business  and 
some  manufacturing  are  done  here.  The 
village  is  very  pretty. 

Msiiasfaelcl,  O.  (682  miles),  is  the 
junction  with  the  Sandusky^  Mamfield  dj 
Newark^  and  the  Fiiishurg^  Fort  Wayne 
de  Chicago  Railway.  {See  page  24.) 

(697  miles),  is  a rapidly- 
growing  village  at  the  crossing  of  the  Cin- 
cinnati Branch  of  the  Cleveland^  Colum- 
bwi,  Cincinnati  do  Indianapolis  Railway. 

Calccloiaia,  O.  (709  miles),  is  on 
the  west  branch  of  Whetstone  River^  and 
is  a milling  village. 

O.  (709  miles),  the  capital 
of  the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  a 
prosperous  village,  which  is  steadily  grow- 
ing. It  is  the  junction  of  the  Cleveland^ 
Columbus^  Cincinnati  d:  Indianapolis 
Railway. 

Ui-iisaiisa,  O.  (766  miles).  The  Cin- 
cinnati^ Sandusky  d'  Cleveland^  and  Pitts- 
burg^ Cincinnati  d St.  Louis  Railways 
connect  here.  {See  page  28.) 

O.  (780  miles),  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  cities  in  the  State, 
is  the  caf)ital  of  Clarke  County,  and  is 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  Lagonda 
Creek  and  Mad  River^  both  of  which 
furnish  a capital  Vv^ater-power,  their  com- 
bined capacity  being  estimated  at  a con- 
stant supply  for  150  run  of  stones.  The 
manufacturing  and  milling  interest  is 
large.  Springfield  is  surrounded  by  a very 
fertile  and  highly-cultivated  country,  from 
which  it  derives  a large  and  profitable 
trade.  Many  of  the  stores  and  residences 
are  elegant,  and  it  also  contains  some 
handsome  churches.  A short  distance 
from  the  city  is  located  Wittenhurg  Col- 
lege (Lutheran),  surrounded  by  spacious 
grounds.  Five  miles  west  of  Springfield 
Tecumseh,  the  great  Indian  chief,  was 
born, 

Springfield  has  acquired  quite  a repu- 
tation for  the  manufacture  of  the  turbine 
water-wheel  and  the  finest  description  of 
agricultural  machinery.  Its  reapers  and 
mowers  are  unexcelled  on  the  continent 
for  perfection,  style,  and  finish. 

30 


Connection  is  made  here  with  the 
Springfield  branch  of  the  Cleveland^  Co- 
lumbus d Cincinnati  Railway^  and  with 
a branch  of  the  Little  Miami  Railway. 

(801  miles),  is  upon 
the  east  bank  of  the  Great  Miami  River ^ 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Mad  River^  and  is 
one  of  the  most  charming  cities  in  the 
country ; its  streets  arc  broad,  and  well 
shaded,  crossing  each  other  at  right  an- 
gles, and,  as  a rule,  being  kept  in  the 
best  condition.  It  is  noted  for  the  ele- 
gance of  its  private  residences,  many  of 
which  are  surrounded  by  spacious  and 
highly-ornamented  grounds.  Of  its  40 
odd  churches,  some  are  models  of  sym- 
metry and  beauty. 

It  is  the  capital  of  Montgomery  County, 
and  contains  the  public  buildings,  among 
which  the  Court-House  is  particularly 
noticeable  as  one  of  the  finest  in  thc^ 
West.  It  is  upon  the  model  of  the  Par- 
thenon, is  127  feet  long,  62  wide,  and  is 
built  of  white  marble,  large  quarries  of 
which  exist  in  the  vicinity,  and  which, 
together  wfith  a fine  quality  of  limestone, 
also  found  in  the  neighborhood,  is  largely 
used  for  building  purposes,  both  in  Day- 
ton  and  in  Cincinnati. 

The  most  attractive  feature  of  Dayton 
to  the  tourist  is  the  Central  Nationed 
Soldiers'  Home.,  situated  on  a beautiful 
elevation,  four  miles  out  of  the  city,  and 
reached  within  a few  hundred  yards  by 
a new  horse-railway.  Tlie  Home  is  an 
extensive  group  of  fine  large  buildings, 
over  forty  in  number,  including  a hand- 
some church,  built  of  native  white  lime- 
stone, and  a splendid  hospital,  recognized 
by  the  highest  medical  authority  as  the 
best  adapted  to  its  purpose  in  the  United 
States.  The  latter  is  of  red  brick,  with 
freestone  facings  and  trimmings,  and 
accomodates  three  hundred  patients.  A 
brick  dining-hall,  with  a kitchen  capable 
of  seating  3,000,  the  largest  in  the  Uni- 
ted States ; a fine  library,  music-hall,  bil- 
liard-room, bowling-alley,  headquarters 
building,  and  several  barracks  for  the 
men,  complete  the  list  of  buildings. 

The  grounds  embrace  an  area  of  640 
aerds,  well  shaded  with  natural  forest- 
trees,  and  are  handsomely  laid  out,  with 
sweeping  avenues,  deer-park,  stocked 
from  Lookout  Mountain,  a beautiful  ar- 
tificial lake,  natural  grotto,  hot-houses, 


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Hamilton.]  NEW  YORK  TO  CINCINNATI,  ROUTE  V.  [Cincinnati. 


and  flower-beds.  The  land  was  given 
to  the  Government  by  the  citizens  of 
Dayton,  and  is  so  improved  and  beauti- 
fled  by  the  taste  and  industry  of  the 
Board  of  Managers,  and  the  inmates, 
that  it  is  spoken  of  with  pride  by  the  en- 
tire people  of  the  State.  The  Home  is 
constructed  on  the  expansive  principle, 
and  now  accommodates  about  2,000  dis- 
abled soldiers,  over  two  hundred  of  whom 
are  m the  hospital.  The  death-rate,  from 
old  wounds,  and  disease  contracted  during 
the  war,  is  five  per  week,  or  260  annually. 

Dayton  possesses  an  immense  water- 
power, which  is  highly  improved,  the 
water  of  Mad  River  being  brought  into 
the  city  by  a hydraulic  canal.  It  is  noted 
for  the  number  and  magnitude  of  its 
manufactures,  especially  of  railroad  cars, 
paper,  stoves,  and  hollow-ware.  It  is 
upon  the  Miami  Canal,  and  is  one  of  the 
four  largest  cities  in  the  State,  the  popu- 
lation being  between  30,000  and  40,000. 
Connections  are  made  here  with  the  (7m- 
cinriati^  Hamilton  cb  Dayton^  Dayton  <b 
Michigan^  Cincinnati^  Richmond  & Chi- 
cago^  Dayton^  Xenia  <b  Western^  and  Cin- 
cinnati^ Sandusky  <&  Cleveland  Railways. 

(836  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Butler  County,  and  is  situated 
on  both  sides  of  the  Miami  River,  By 
means  of  a hydraulic  canal,  a water- 
power sufficient  for  166  run  of  stones  is 
secured,  which  gives  to  the  city  great  ad- 
vantages as  a manufacturing  place.  The 
neighboring  country  is  rich  and  popu- 
lous. The  Cincinnati  <b  Indianapolis 
Junction  and  the  Cincinnati.^  Richmond 
(b  Chicago  Railways  connect  here. 

Oxford,  O.,  lies  about  14  miles 
northwest  of  Hamilton,  on  the  last-named 
road,  and  is  famous  as  a seat  of  learning. 

Miami  University.,  one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  reputable  in  the  State,  and  two 
large  academies,  one  conducted  on  the 
Mount  Holyoke  plan,  and  the  other  un- 
der the  auspices  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  together  with  three  minor  edu- 
cational institutions,  claim  distinction 
and  consideration  for  this  handsome  little 
village,  situated  in  the  fertile  valley  of 
Whitewater, 

CINCINNATI,  OHIO. 

Cincinnati  (861  miles  from  New  York) 
is  known  as  the  “Queen  City,”  a title 


it  well  deserves,  from  its  situation, 
size,  and  beauty.  The  city  has  a front- 
age of  10  miles  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Ohio  River,  and  extends  back  for  about 
2 miles,  occupying  half  of  a valley  bi- 
sected by  the  river,  and  extending  to  the 
base  of  the  vine  and  villa  crowned  hills, 
which  form  a beautiful  natural  amphi- 
theatre, containing,  besides  Cincinnati, 
the  cities  of  Newport  and  Covington, 
Kentucky,  the  two  being  separated  by 
the  Licking  River,  which  empties  into 
the  Ohio,  opposite  to  Cincinnati,  and 
over  which  a suspension  bridge  is  thrown, 
thus  bringing  the  three  cities  into  direct 
intercourse  by  street-railroad  lines. 

Cincinnati  is  principally  built  upon  two 
terraces,  the  first  50  and  the  second  108 
feet  above  low-water  mark.  The  latter 
has  been  graded  to  an  easy  slope,  termi- 
nating at  the  base  of  the  hills. 

The  streets  are  laid  out  with  great 
regularity,  crossing  each  other  at  right 
angles,  and  of  an  average  width  of  sixty- 
six  feet.  The  business  portion  of  the 
city  is  compactly  built,  and  in  the  archi- 
tectural elegance  of  its  stores,  and  espe- 
cially those  devoted  to  wholesale  busi- 
ness, equals  that  of  any  city  on  the 
continent.  A fine  drab  freestone  is  the 
material  chiefly  used,  and  great  attention 
is  paid  to  uniting  beauty  of  design  with 
solidity  of  construction.  Great  foresight 
and  public  spirit  are  shown  by  its  citizens 
in  beautifying  the  streets,  and  in  laying 
out  its  broad  and  handsome  avenues  and 
parks. 

The  history  of  Cincinnati  is  of  some 
interest,  although  a century  has  not  yet 
elapsed  since  the  first  settler  moored  his 
flat-boat,  and  became  the  founder  of  the 
“ Queen  City.”  This  was  in  1Y88,  and, 
for  a number  of  years,  a continual  series 
of  difficulties  with  the  Indians  retarded 
the  progress  of  the  town,  and  many  a 
story  of  savage  raids,  of  midnight  alarms, 
and  of  fearful  barbarity,  is  still  related 
by  the  descendants  of  the  early  residents. 
In  1800  it  had  grown  to  750  inhabitants, 
and  in  1819  it  was  incorporated  as  a city. 
About  1830  the  Miami  Canal  was  built, 
and  in  the  next  ten  years  the  population 
increased  85  per  cent.  In  1840  the  Lit- 
tle Miami,  the  first  of  the  many  railroads 
now  centring  in  Cincinnati,  was  built, 
and  in  1850  the  population  had  increased 
31 


) 


Cincinnati.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Cincinnati, 


from  46,382,  to  115,436.  In  1869  it  was 
estimated  at  230,000, *but  the  census  of 
1810  shows  it  to  be  a little  less  than 
220,000. 

On  the  5th  of  September,  1862,  mar- 
tial law  was  declared  in  the  city,  and  the 
scenes  which  followed,  during  what  is 
known  as  the  “ Siege  of  Cincinnati,” 
will  be  remembered  as  long  as  the  city 
exists.  The  Confederate  troops  were 
rapidly  advancing  on  the  place,  and,  as 
the  General  Government  could  spare  no 
forces  to  meet  them,  capture  seemed  in- 
evitable, but  the  people  rallied  to  their 
own  defence.  In  one  day  and  night,  a 
pontoon  bridge  was  thrown  across  the 
River  (the  suspension  bridge  across  the 
Ohio  not  being  completed),  and  the  next 
morning  a steady  column  of  men  were 
marching  across  to  the  Kentucky  shore  ; 
lawyers  and  actors,  merchants  and  cler- 
gymen, doctors  and  carmen,  laborers  and 
clerks,  in  fact,  all,  without  any  distinction 
of  color  or  profession,  went  to  the  front 
with  pick  and  shovel,  with  rifle  and  shot- 
gun. From  the  interior  of  the  State 
came  a brigade  of  squirrel-hunters  (farm- 
ers and  their  boys),  each  with  his  rifle, 
his  pouch  filled  with  bullets,- his  horn  of 
powder,  and  his  box  of  “ greased  patch- 
es; ” intrenchments  were  rapidly  thrown 
up,  the  river-steamers  were  turned  into 
extempore  gunboats,  and  heavy  batteries 
were  constructed  on  all  the  eminences  for 
miles  around.  Happily,  however,  the  city 
was  not  besieged. 

HOTELS  AND  EESTAHEANTS. 

Hotels. — The  hotels  of  Cincinnati  are 
numerous,  and  some  of  them  of  great 
elegance,  while,  as  a rule,  they  are  noted 
for  the  excellence  of  their  fare.  The 
following  are  considered  the  best,  and 
one  cannot  go  amiss  in  visiting  any  of 
them : 

The  Burnet  House  has  a front  of  212 
feet  on  Third  and  210  feet  on  Vine 
Street.  It  is  built  in  the  Italian  style  of 
architecture,  and  for  many  years  has  been 
noted  for  its  splendid  appointments.  It 
is  one  of  the  oldest  and  best  patronized 
hotels  in  the  city,  and  one  of  the  best 
appointed  in  the  West. 

The  Gibson  Ilouse^  on  the  west  side  of 
Walnut  Street,  between  Fourth  and  Fifth 
Streets,  opposite  to  the  Merchants’  Ex- 
32 


change  and  Young  Men’s  Mercantile  Li- 
brary, is  admirably  arranged. 

The  Spencer  House,  on  the  northwest 
corner  of  Broadway  and  the  Public  Land- 
ing, is  large  and  elegantly  appointed,  and 
is  popular  with  Southerners. 

The  St.  James  Hotel,  on  Fourth  Street, 
corner  of  Hammond  and  cast  of  Maine 
Street,  is  a popular  and  fashionable  house. 

The  Walnut  Street  House,  on  Walnut, 
corner  of  Gano,  between  Fifth  and  Sixth 
Streets,  is  very  large,  and  is  noted  for  the 
elegance  and  size  of  its  dining-room. 

The  Carlisle  House,  corner  of  Mound 
and  Sixth  Streets,  is  a well-conducted 
house,  upon  the  European  plan. 

The  Merchants'  Hotel,  Fifth  Street,  east 
of  Main ; the  Galt  House,  southwest 
corner  of  Sixth  and  Main  Streets  ; and 
the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  on  the  west  side 
of  Main  Street,  below  Second,  are  all 
good  hotels. 

Restaurants. — There  are  many  excel- 
lent restaurants  in  Cincinnati,  where  the 
visitor  is  sure  of  good  eating  at  fair 
prices.  Among  them  the  following  are 
the  best  for  ladies  : 

Keppler's,  on  Fourth  Street,  between 
Plum  Street  and  Central  Avenue,  has  a 
large  and  elegant  stone  front.  There  is 
an  extensive  saloon  and  confectionery 
on  the  ground  floor,  and  apartments  in 
the  upper  stories  for  families  or  individ- 
uals. It  is  conducted  on  the  European 
plan. 

St.  Nicholas. — This  establishment  is  on 
the  corner  of  Fourth  and  Race  Streets, 
and  furnishes  saloon  and  restaurant  ac- 
commodations. 

Schmidt's,  corner  of  Seventh  and  Race 
Streets,  and 

Becker's,  on  Mound  Street,  near  the 
Carlisle  House,  sums  up  the  most  conve- 
nient and  accessible  restaurants  of  Cin- 
cinnati for  lady  visitors. 

CONVEYANCES. 

The  means/  of  getting  from  point  to 
point  in  Cincinnati  are  by  carriages  and 
street  railways. 

Street  Railways. — These  are  eight  in 
number,  and  the  fare  is  fixed  at  a uniform 
rate  of  six  cents,  except  to  Mount  Au- 
burn, Cumminsville,  and  Spring  Grove 
Cemetery,  when  higher  rates  are  charged. 

The  Covington  and  Newport  City  Rail- 


Cincinnati.]  NEW  YORK  TO  CINCINNATI,  ROUTE  Y.  [Cincinnati. 


ways  cross  the  Suspension  Bridges,  and 
persons  wishing  a fine  view  of  the  river 
and  the  three  cities,  as  well  as  the  bridges, 
can  procure  it  cheaply  and  easily  by  tak- 
ing a car  at  the  end  of  the  Cincinnati 
bridge. 

Hacks. — There  are  practically  no  re- 
'Strictions  on  the  charges  of  the  hackmen, 
as  the  legal  scale  of  prices  was  estab- 
lished beJfore  the  war,  and  no  one  pays 
any  attention  to  it.  As  a matter  of  self- 
protection, and  to  avoid  trouble,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  make  a bargain  before  start- 
ing- 

BEIDGES. 

The  pride  of  Cincinnati  is  the  great 
Suspension  Bridge  across  the  Ohio,  de- 
signed and  built  under  the  supervision. of 
the  late  John  A.  Roebling.  This  bridge, 
W'hich  is  upon  the  same  plan  as  the  Ni- 
agara Suspension  Bridge,  is  suspended 
between  two  towers,  one  in  Cincinnati, 
and  one  in  Covington,  each  200  feet  high. 
From  tower  to  tower,  is  1,057  feet,  the 
span  being  the  largest  in  the  world ; the 
entire  length  is  2,252  feet,  and  its  height 
above  low  water  is  100  feet.  By  taking 
the  cars  at  Front  Street,  in  an  hour’s  ride 
one  may  pass  over  this  bridge,  over  the 
one  between  Covington  and  Newport,  and 
return  to  the  starting-point,  having  been 
in  two  States,  and  three  cities,  and  hav- 
ing crossed  two  navigable  rivers. 

A very  handsome  Railroad  Bridge^ 
which  was  completed  in  the  year  1871, 
unites  Butler  Street,  in  Cincinnati,  with 
Saratoga  Street,  in  Newport.  There  are 
8 piers  and  7 spans.  The  bridge  is  of 
wrought -iron,  except  the  floor,  which 
is  of  wood.  It  is  arranged  for  car- 
riages and  pedestrians  as  well  as  rail- 
way -trains. 

The  Licking  Bridge. — This  is  a wire 
suspension  bridge  across  the  Licking 
River,  just  above  the  mouth,  connecting 
the  cities  of  Covington  and  Newport, 
Kentucky.  It  was  the  longest  span  in 
the  West  before  the  magnificent  structure 
silready  alluded  to  was  put  up,  and,  since 
that  improvement,  has  been  called  into 
double  use  by  residents  and  visitors  to 
the  United  States  Barracks,  which  grew 
out  of  a small  military  post  in  the  pio- 
neer times  of  Cincinnati.  The  view,  day 
or  night,  from  this  bridge,  is  impressive. 


PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT. 

Bike'’s  Music  Hall^  one  of  the  most  ele- 
gant in  the  country,  is  on  Fourth  Street, 
between  Vine  and  Walnut.  Pike’s  Opera- 
House  was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1866,  but  was  rebuilt  for  business  pur- 
poses, with  the  Music  Hall  in  the  second 
story.  The  style  of  architecture  is  of 
the  Elizabethan  era,  highly  ornamented, 
and  the  material  used  is  fine  sandstone. 

The  National  Theatre.^  the  “ Old  Drury” 
of  Cincinnati,  is  on  Sycamore  Street,  be- 
tween Third  and  Fourth  Streets.  It  is 
very  large,  and  possesses  all  the  neces- 
sary facilities  for  producing  the  most 
elaborate  dramatic  and  scenic  effects. 

Wood'^s  Theatre.,  corner  of  Sixth  and 
Vine  Streets,  is  a small  theatre  with  a 
very  contracted  stage,  but  is  regularly 
occupied  by  good  dramatic  companies. 

Mozart  Jlall.,  devoted  to  lectures  and 
concerts,  is  in  the  German  Catholic  Insti- 
tute, on  Vine  Street,  at  the  corner  of 
Longworth  Street.  It  has  a seating  ca- 
pacity for  3,000,  and  is  provided  with  a 
good  stage,  scenery,  etc.,  but  is  not  used 
regularly  as  a theatre. 

The  other  public  halls  are  the  Melodeon., 
corner  of  Fourth  and  Walnut  Streets  ; 
College  Hall  (new),  in  College  building, 
Walnut  Street,  above  Fourth  ; Greenwood 
Hall.,  in  the  Mechanics’  Institute,  corner 
of  Sixth  and  Vine  Streets  ; and  the  large 
halls  “ Over  the  Rhine,”  noticed  under 
that  head.  Hopkim's  Music  Hall.,  corner 
of  Fourth  and  Elm  Streets,  completes  the 
list  of  halls  where  public  entertainments 
of  a first-class  character  are  given. 

The  Gymnasium.,  on  Fourth  Street,  is 
one  of  the  most  perfect  in  the  country. 
It  contains  a splendid  exercising  room,  a 
handsomely-furnished  reading-room,  and 
commodious  bath-room.  The  association 
has  over  1,200  members. 

The  Queen  City  Skating-Rink.,  on  Free- 
man Street,  between  Laurel  and  Betts 
Streets,  is  at  all  times  an  attractive  re- 
sort. 

The  Union  Skating-Rink,  west  of  Lin- 
coln Park,  is  devoted  to  base-ball  in  the 
summer. 

CHUECHES. 

There  are  about  150  large  churches  in 
Cincinnati,  some  of  them  remarkable  for 
architectural  taste,  and  the  arrangements 
33 


Cincinnati.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[CiNCINNATL 


for  securing  comfort  to  the  congrega- 
tions worshipping  in  them. 

The  most  attractive  are  the  following  : 
St.  John's  (Episcopal),  corner  of  John 
and  Seventh  Streets ; St.  Paul's  (Method- 
ist Episcopal),  corner  of  Seventh  and 
Smith  Streets,  built  of  native  blue  lime- 
stone, faced  with  the  beautiful  white  Day- 
ton  stone ; First  Baptist,  on  Ninth  Street, 
between  Vine  and  Race  Streets ; Trinity 
(Methodist  Episcopal),  Ninth  Street,  be- 
tween Race  and  Elm  Streets ; First  Pres- 
hyterian,  Fourth  Street,  between  Main 
and  W alnut ; Central  Presbyterian,  Mound 
Street,  between  Sixth  and  Seventh  Streets. 
St.  Peter's  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic), 
the  Synagogue,  the  Reformed  Presby- 
terian, the  First  Congregational^  and  the 
Central  Christian  churched  stand  on  three 
sides  of  the  square  of  which  the  city 
buildings,  and  a neat  little  park,  form  the 
fourth  side,  the  whole  rendering  that 
part  of  the  city  very  attractive.  This 
square  lies  between  Eighth  and  Ninth 
and  Plum  Streets,  and  Central  Avenue. 
The  Jews  have  also  a second  and  equal- 
ly handsome  synagogue,  corner  of  Eighth 
and  Mound  Streets  ; and  the  Society  of 
Friends  have  a very  neat  new  meeting- 
house on  the  diagonal  corner. 

Services  are  held  in  the  synagogues 
every  Saturday  morning  at  ten  o’clock. 

St.  Xavier's  Church  (Roman  Catholic), 
on  Sycamore  Street,  between  Sixth  and 
Seventh  Streets,  although  unfinished  as 
to  the  spire  and  towers,  is  interiorly 
one  of  the  handsomest  specimens  of 
Gothic  architecture  in  the  West. 

PAEKS  AND  PXIBLIO  SQTTAEES. 

Eden  Park  is  on  a hill  to  the  east  of 
the  city,  commanding  magnificent  views 
of  the  city,  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  and 
the  surrounding  country.  It  is  not  yet 
completed,  but  the  main  avenues  have 
been  surveyed,  and  partially  graded.  The 
new  reservoir  of  the  water-works  is  lo- 
cated here,  and  Avill  have  the  effect  of  a 
large  and  beautiful  lake.  The  area  of 
this  park  is  160  acres,  and  the  natural 
advantages  are  so  great  that  the  expense 
of  improving  and  beautifying  it  will  be 
comparatively  small.  The  centre  of  the 
ground  is  very  undulating,  and  every 
opportunity  is  afforded  for  the  construc- 
tion of  artificial  lakes,  rivulets,  cascades, 
34 


grottos,  bridges,  and  all  those  other  ac- 
cessions which  combine  to  make  a public 
park  a desirable  resort. 

Washington  Park,  one  of  the  oldest 
pleasure-grounds  in  the  city,  formerly  a 
cemetery,  is  on  the  north  side  of  Twelfth 
Street,  between  Race  Street  and  the  Mi- 
ami Canal.  It  is  a beautiful  and  attrac- 
tive spot. 

Lirtcoln  Park  is  on  the  vrest  side  of 
Freeman  Street,  north  of  Clarke,  and  is 
beautiful  and  extensive,  with  a lovely 
miniature  lake  and  island,  and  sweeping 
avenues. 

City  Park  is  on  Plum  Street,  north  of 
Eighth,  in  front  of  the  City  Buildings. 

Hopkins's  Park  is  at  the  corner  of  Saun- 
ders Street  and  Mount  Auburn  Avenue. 
It  is  small,  but  tastefully  laid  out,  and 
adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  that  charm- 
ing suburb.  This  park  was  given  to  the 
city  by  S.  C.  Hopkins,  on  condition  that 
it  should  be  used  as  a park,  and  kept  in 
good  condition. 

PTJBLIO  AND  PEOMINENT  BTULDINQS, 

AND  PLACES  NOT  OTHEEWISE  CLAS- 
SIFIED. 

Municipal. — The  City  Buildings  and 
the  grounds  attached  occupy  the  square 
between  Eighth  and  Ninth  Streets,  front- 
ing on  Plum  Street.  The  buildings  are 
large  and  handsome,  and  are  set  off  by 
the  trim  little  park,  with  a fountain  in  the 
centre,  already  mentioned. 

The  Court-House  is  a large  and  im- 
posing structure  of  Dayton  stone,  front- 
ing on  Main  Street  north  of  Ninth  Street. 
The  interior  arrangements  are  quite  in 
keeping  with  the  handsome  exterior. 
Ample  accommodations  are  provided  for 
the  courts,  and  one  of  the  finest  law 
libraries  in  the  United  States  is  to  be 
found  within  its  walls.  The  jail  is  in  the 
rear,  and  is  connected  with  the  court- 
house by  a subterranean  passage. 

The  House  of  Refuge  is  situated  in 
Mill  Creek  Valley,  one  mile  north  of  the. 
city  limits.  It  has  a front  of  277  feet, 
and  consists  of  a main  building  and  two 
wings.  The  main  building  is  85  by  55 
feet,  and  each  of  the  wings  is  96  by  38  feet. 
There  are  towers  at  the  extremities  of 
the  main  building  and  the  wings.  The 
buildings  are  of  blue  limestone,  trimmed 
with  white  Dayton  stone.  Nearly  six  acres 


Cincinnati.]  NEW  YORK  TO  CINCINNATI,  ROUTE  Y.  [Cincinnati 


of  ground  surrounding  the  buildings  are 
enclosed  by  a stone  wall  20  feet  high. 
This  institution  is  for  the  reformation  of 
young  criminals. 

The  City  Worh-liouse  is  near  the  House 
of  Refuge.  It  was  commenced  in  1867, 
and  is  now  completed  and  in  operation. 
The  main  building  is  610  feet  long,  con- 
taining 600  apartments,  the  workshops 
forming  a hollow  square  in  the  rear,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  imposing  edifices  about 
the  city. 

NATIONAL. 

Custoyn-House  and  Post-OJficc. — This 
is  a handsome  stone  edifice  on  Fourth 
Street,  at  the  corner  of  Vine.  The  United 
States  courts.  Government  depository, 
and  other  offices,  are  in  the  building. 

EDUCATIONAL  AND  OHAEITABLE. 

Cincinnati  College  is  on  Walnut  Street, 
between  Fourth  and  Fifth.  It  is  a white 
limestone  building  of  the  Doric  style  of 
architecture,  and  its  dimensions  are  140 
by  100  feet.  It  was  originally  founded 
as  a regular  college,  was  afterward  sus- 
pended, was  then  revived  as  a college 
and  medical  school,  and  is  at  present  a 
law  school.  It  has  an  unincumbered 
property  of  $200,000,  and  the  income  is 
accumulating  as  a fund  to  found  a free 
university.  The  building  is  in  part  oc- 
cupied as  a public  hall,  and  by  the  Young 
Men’s  Mercantile  Library  Association. 

The  Medical  College  of  Ohio^  on  Sixth 
Street,  between  Vine  and  Race  Streets,  is 
a well-appointed  institution. 

The  Miami  Medical  College^  on  Twelfth 
Street,  near  the  Cincinnati  Hospital, 
founded  nearly  twenty  years  ago,  is  a 
flourishing  institution.  One  of  its  found- 
ers was  the  late  Prof.  R.  D.  Mussey, 
famous  in  the  history  of  medicine  in 
America. 

Xavier's  College  ( J esuit),  founded  in 
1828,  and  magnificently  rebuilt  in  1868, 
is  a massive  structure  of  native  free- 
stone and  brick,  on  Sycamore  Street,  with 
a frontage  of  66  feet,  and  running  on 
Seventh  Street  166  feet. 

German  Catholic  Institute, — This  is  on 
Vine  Street,  near  Sixth,  adjoining  the 
Mechanics’  Institute,  and  adds  much  to 
the  architectural  effect  of  that  part  of 
the  city.  Mozart  Hall,  already  noticed,  is 
in  the  building. 


The  Wesleyan  Female  College  is  on 
Wesley  Avenue,  between  Court  and 
Clarke  Streets.  The  foundations  were 
laid  in  1867,  and  the  building  as  now 
completed  is  a fine  edifice,  surrounded 
by  ornamental  grounds.  The  institution 
has  been  in  operation  since  1832. 

Convent  of  Notre-Fame. — This  is  on 
Sixth  Street,  west  of  Sycamore.  A day 
school  for  young  ladies,  and  limited  board- 
ing accommodation  for  day  pupils,  sup- 
port the  Order. 

8t,  Clair's  Convent  is  the  home  of  a 
French  sisterhood,  known  as  the  Sisters 
of  the  Poor  of  St.  Francis.  It  is  at  the 
corner  of  Lythe  and  Third  Streets.  The 
Sisters  teach  young  ladies  household  in- 
dustry, and  some  of  the  polite  accom- 
plishments. 

The  Cathedral  School  is  a large  free 
Roman  Catholic  school,  built  by  Arch- 
bishop Purcell,  in  opposition  to  the  public 
school  system,  on  the  corner  of  Mound 
and  Chestnut  Streets.  An  unsuccessful 
effort  was  made  to  dispose  of  this  and 
other  Catholic  schools  to  the  Board  of 
Education. 

Convent  of  St.  Francis^  on  Vine  Street, 
between  Liberty  and  Greene  Streets  (Ger- 
man). Industry  and  charity  are  the  ob- 
jects of  the  order  of  this  name. 

The  Hughes  High  School  is  on  the  south 
side  of  Fifth,  facing  Mound  Street.  It  is 
in  the  collegiate  Gothic  style  of  archi- 
tecture, and  is  admirably  suited  for  the 
purpose  for  which  it  was  built. 

The  Woodward  High  School  is  on  Frank- 
lin Street,  between  Sycamore  and  Broad- 
way, and  is,  like  the  Hughes,  a step  be- 
tween the  intermediate  schools  and  the 
college.  The  students  are  admitted  by 
competitive  examination,  from  the  gradu- 
ates of  the  public  schools,  which  in  this 
city  are  numerous  and  weU  conducted. 
Both  of  these  schools  are  named  after  the 
gentlemen  who  founded  them. 

The  Lane  Theological  Seminary^  located 
at  Walnut  Hills,  is  one  of  the  most  noted 
in  the  country,  and  the  names  of  many 
distinguished  divines  are  identified  with 
it. 

The  Roman  Catholics  have  a large 
theological  seminary  and  a flourishing 
academy  on  the  western  range  of  hills 
overlooking  the  Deer  Creek  Valley;  but 
these  are  not  in  the  corporate  limits. 

35 


Cincinnati.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Cincinnati. 


Tlie  OMo  Mechanics'  Institute^  corner 
of  Sixth  and  Vine  Streets,  was  founded  in 
1829,  with  the  object  of  affording,  at  a 
nominal  cost,  instruction  in  practical 
branches  of  knowledge.  The  institute 
building  is  large,  and  contains  Greenwood 
Hall  and  commodious  rooms,  one  of 
which  is  occupied  by  the  Theological  and 
Religious  Library.  The  Fire  Department 
watch-tower  and  alarm-bell  are  upon  this 
building. 

Besides  the  educational  institutions  al- 
ready mentioned,  are  the  Eclectic  Medical 
College^  the  Physio-Medical  College^  the 
College  of  Dental  Surgeons^  and  the  Mount 
Auburn  Female  Seminary, 

The  charitable  institutions  and  associa- 
tions of  Cincinnati  are  numerous,  and  are 
conducted  with  a spirit  of  liberality  and 
energy.  Space  can  only  be  found  here 
for  a sketch  of  the  most  prominent. 

The  Cincinnati  Hospital  completed  in 
1869,  occupies  the  block  north  of  Twelfth 
Street,  between  Plum  Street  and  Central 
Avenue.  It  is  said  to  be  the  largest, 
most  complete,  and  handsomest  institution 
of  the  kind,  in  the  country.  It  consists 
of  a number  of  detached  buildings  which 
are  so  united  by  corridors  as  to  form  one 
complete  and  harmonious  whole.  They 
are  arranged  so  as  to  form  a hollow 
square,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a foun- 
tain, surrounded  by  shade-trees  and  or- 
namental shrubbery.  The  central  build- 
ing, through  which  is  the  main  entrance, 
is  surmounted  by  a dome  and  spire  110  feet 
high.  The  building  is  of  brick,  with  free- 
stone trimmings  ; the  roof  (Mansard)  is 
covered  with  variegated  slate.  The 
grounds  are  448  by  340  feet.  The  cost 
was  nearly  $1,000,000.  Every  stranger 
should  visit  this  institution. 

SL  Luke's  Hospital  is  an  Episcopal 
institution,  located  at  the  corner  of 
Franklin  Street  and  Broadway.  It  was 
incorporated  in  1866.  Patients  are  ad- 
mitted without  regard  to  creed,  and 
may  be  visited  by  clergymen  of  their  own 
faith.  It  is  not  entirely  a charitable  insti- 
tution, as  pay  patients  are  received. 

The  Jewish  Hospital  corner  of  Baum 
and  Third  Streets,  provides  for  the 
needy  sick  of  the  Jewish  faith,  thereby 
entirely  relieving  the  city  of  that  ex- 
pense. It  is  supported  by  voluntary 
contributions. 

36 


St,  Mary's  Hospital  corner  of  Betts 
and  Linn  Streets,  is  a Roman  Catholic 
institution,  under  the  management  of  a 
German  sisterhood.  It  is  partly  support- 
ed by  charity  and  partly  by  pay  from 
such  patients  as  can  afford  to  give. 

The  Hospital  of  the  Good  Samaritan  is 
at  the  corner  of  Lock  and  Sixth  Streets. 
This  was  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  but 
was  abandoned  by  the  Government  and 
purchased  by  two  wealthy  citizens,  who 
gave  it  to  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  It  is  a 
magnificent  building,  very  large  and  com- 
modious. Patients  are  charged  for 
rooms  and  attendance,  although  some  are 
admitted  on  charity. 

Sisters  of  the  Good  Shepherd. — This  or- 
der has  a Magdalen  institution,  corner 
of  Bank  and  Baymiller  Streets,  w^here 
abandoned  women  are  reclaimed,  and  arc 
taught  to  support  themselves  by  honest 
labor.  A convent  and  the  Magdalen  oc- 
cupy almost  an  entire  block. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy  is  an 
order  engaged  in  finding  employment  for 
women.  It  is  doing  a grand  missionary 
work  among  the  intemperate.  The  house 
is  on  Fourth  Street,  between  Central 
Avenue  and  John  Street. 

The  City  Infirmary  has  its  office  on 
Plum  Street,  between  Seventh  and  Eighth, 
but  its  building,  which  is  large  and  hand- 
some, is  located  upon  a fine  farm,  8^ 
miles  north  of  the  city,  upon  the  Car- 
thage road. 

The  Longview  Asylum  for  the  Insane  is 
a State  institution,  located  six  miles  north 
of  the  city,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Car- 
thage. The  building,  which  is  of  brick, 
and  almost  fire-proof,  is  612  feet  long, 
is  lighted  by  gas  made  on  the  premises, 
and  is  heated  by  hot  air  and  steam.  It 
has  large  and  beautiful  pleasure-grounds 
for  the  use  of  the  patients. 

The  Cincinnati  Orphan  Asylum  was 
chartered  in  1833,  and,  three  years  later, 
a building  was  erected  on  Elm  Street. 
In  1861  a new  building  was  put  up  on 
Mount  Auburn,  and  is  now  occupied  by 
the  Association.  The  institution  is  admi- 
rably managed. 

The  German  Protestant  Orphan  Asy- 
lum is  upon  Highland  Avenue,  Mount 
Auburn. 

The  Children's  Home  is  at  19  and  21 
Park  Street ; the  farm  is  on  College  Hill, 


Cincinnati.]  NEW  YORK  TO  CINCINNATI,  ROUTE  Y.  [Cincinnati. 


8 miles  from  the  city,  and  a branch  is  es- 
tablished at  No.  1,  East  Sixth  Street. 
The  object  of  this  institution  is  to  pro- 
vide for  orphans,  and  for  children  whose 
parents  cannot  take  care  of  them. 

The  Union  Bethel^  though  originally  (in 
1839)  merely  a Sunday-school,  has  become 
one  of  the  most  prominent  of  the  Cincin- 
nati benevolent  institutions.  It  now  em- 
braces the  following  departments : River 
Mission,  Visitation  of  Families,  Bethel 
Church,  Bethel  School,  Relief  Sewing- 
school,  Free  Reading-room,  Cheap  Din- 
ing-hall, and  the  News-boys’  Home.  The 
foundations  of  a fine  building,  laid  in  1868, 
have  been  completed.  There  is  to  be  one 
entrance  from  Front,  and  two  from  Yeat- 
man  Street.  The  building  is  to  contain 
the  following  departments : A grand  hall 
capable  of  accommodating  from  2,500  to 
3,000  (this  is  finished  and  in  use) ; a cheap 
temperance  restaurant ; a free  reading- 
room;  dormitories;  a people’s  bath;  a 
gymnasium;  rooms  for  Relief  Depart- 
ment and  Ladies’  Bethel  Aid  Society,  and 
a Newsboys’  Home.  This  Association 
is  non-denominational. 

The  Widows'  Home  is  an  institution 
whose  name  sufficiently  indicates  its  char- 
acter. It  was  originated  in  1848,  and 
chartered  in  1851.  Candidates  for  ad- 
mission must  be  of  good  character,  and, 
except  in  certain  cases,  over  60  years 
old.  The  house  is  opposite  the  German 
Orphan  Asylum,  on  Highland  Avenue, 
with  very  pleasant  surroundings. 

The  Home  for  the  Friendless^  on  Court 
Street,  between  Central  Avenue  and  John 
Street,  is  a handsome  edifice  of  brick 
with  stone  trimmings,  54  feet  front  and 
4 stories  in  height.  The  object  of  this 
institution  is  to  reclaim  fallen  women  and 
to  protect  virtuous  ones  who  have  no 
friends  nor  means  of  livelihood. 

The  Women's  Christian  Association^ 
though  strictly  a religious  society,  is 
practically  a great  charity,  and  was  or- 
ganized in  June,  1868.  Its  principal  ben- 
eficiary department  is  that  which  pro- 
vides a boarding-house  for  homeless 
women.  This  house  is  at  2Y  Longworth 
Street,  where  young  women  can  find 
neatly-furnished  rooms  and  a comfortable 
home  at  prices  within  the  means  of  the 
most  poorly  paid. 

The  Young  Men's  Christian  Associa- 


tion has  a number  of  departments,  both 
religious  and  secular.  It  is  at  200  and 
202  Vine  Street.  The  building  includes 
a free  reading-room,  a music-room,  fur- 
nished with  a piano,  cabinet-organ,  etc. ; 
and  a conversation-room,  where  all  sorts 
of  innocent  games  are  encouraged.  Dur- 
ing the  cold  season  the  Association  pro- 
vides a place  where  indigent  persons  can 
be  fed  and  lodged  free  of  expense,  called 
the  ‘‘  Strangers’  Home.”  At  the  corner  of 
John  and  Columbia  Streets  a coffee  and 
reading  room  was  established  in  1866. 
Here  the  prices  are  very  low,  and  the  ar- 
ticles furnished  good.  A project  is  on 
foot  to  erect  a more  suitable  building, 
which  it  is  expected  will  equal  in  size 
and  elegance  that  of  the  Association  in 
Philadelphia. 

The  Public  Library^  formerly  in  the 
Mechanics’  Institute,  occupies  the  impos- 
ing structure  on  Vine  Street,  above 
Sixth,  originally  intended  for  an  opera- 
house,  which  plan  fell  through  from  want 
of  funds,  and  the  property  being  involved 
in  law  was  ordered  to  be  sold  at  public 
auction,  the  Board  of  Education  becom- 
ing the  purchasers.  It  is  a magnificent 
building,  and,  when  completed  for  a li- 
brary, will  be  entirely  fire-proof.  There 
are  23,000  well-selected  volumes  now  in 
use,  and  this  number  is  steadily  increas- 
ing at  the  rate  of  over  a thousand  per 
year. 

The  Public  Landing^  or  Levee,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  lies  between  Main 
Street  and  Broadway,  or  two  long  squares 
in  length,  well  paved  and  gradually 
sloping  down  to  the  water’s  edge.  Its 
depth  is  YOO  feet.  There  is  also  wharf- 
age all  the  way  from  the  foot  of  Law- 
rence Street,  in  the  east,  to  Race  Street, 
in  the  west,  intercepted  only  by  the  sus- 
pension-bridge pier,  thus  affording  five 
squares  of  steamboat  landing  with  ac- 
commodations for  as  many  as  forty  steam- 
ers at  a time.  The  levee  at  all  times 
during  high  water  presents  a very  ani- 
mated appearance,  and  the  city  is  so 
built  as  to  permit  of  its  extension  at  any 
time. 

The  Davidson  Fountain. — This  mag- 
nificent fountain,  the  handsomest  in 
America,  presented  to  the  city  by  the 
late  Tyler  Davidson,  is  now  in  operation, 
in  Fifth  Street,  market  space  having  been 
3Y 


Cincinnati.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Cincinnati. 


ceded  by  the  city  for  the  purpose.  The 
fountain  is  of  bronze,  cast  in  Munich.  It 
rests  upon  a granite  base  surrounded  by  a 
handsome  esplanade,  the  whole  work  oc- 
cupying the  entire  length  of  a square, 
and  the  space  between  the  curbs  on  the 
upper  and  lower  sides  of  the  street.  This 
beautiful  improvement  has  already  in- 
duced the  building  of  several  handsome 
blocks  of  stone. 

The  Masonic  Temple^  corner  of  Third 
and  Walnut  Streets,  is  in  the  Byzantine 
style  of  architecture,  and  is  195  feet  by 
100.  It  is  one  of  the  most  convenient 
and  elegant  Masonic  buildings  in  the 
United  States. 

The  Merchants^  Exchange  and  Chamber 
of  Commerce  is  on  Fourth  Street  between 
Main  and  Walnut,  adjoining  the  First 
Presbyterian  Church,  which  is  noted  for 
having  the  highest  steeple  in  the  city. 

The  Exchange  is  a fine  large  hall  on  a 
level  with  the  street,  but  stands  back 
in  the  heart  of  the  square,  with  stores 
and  offices  in  front,  thus  securing  immu- 
nity from  the  noise  and  din  of  the  roar- 
ing thoroughfare.  The  hall  affords  stand- 
ing room  for  nearly  25,000  people,  and  is 
a point  of  attraction  every  business  day 
from  eleven  o’clock  a.  m.  till  one  o’clock 

p.  M. 

The  Board  of  Trade  Rooms  are  in 
Pike’s  elegant  building  on  Fourth  Street, 
between  Vine  and  Walnut  Streets.  The 
organization  is  separate  and  distinct  from 
the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  but  occupies 
about  the  same  relation  to  the  commerce 
of  the  city. 

Art  Galleries. — As  yet,  a public  fine- 
art  gallery  has  no  place  among  the  at- 
tractions of  Cincinnati,  but  one  will  be  a 
feature  of  the  McMicken  University.  The 
private  collections  of  paintings  of  rare 
worth  are  numerous,  but  those  of  Henry 
Probasco,  on  Clifton,  and  Joseph  Long- 
worth,  on  Walnut  Hills,  may  be  mentioned 
as  large  and  valuable.  Visitors  are  always 
politely  received. 

In  sculpture  there  are  many  works  of 
Hiram  Powers,  who  was  born  and  edu- 
cated in  Cincinnati,  and  still  calls  it  his 
home,  but  they  are  all  owned  by  private 
individuals,  except  a bust  of  Washington, 
to  be  seen  in  the  Mercantile  Library 
rooms,  on  Walnut  Street  above  Fourth. 

It  is  a little  remarkable  that  a city  from 
38 


which  graduated  such  artists  as  Powers, 
T.  B.  Jones,  and  Clevinger,  among  sculp- 
tors, and  Sontagg,  Beard,  T.  B.  Read, 
Powell,  Johnston,  and  Frankenstein, 
among  painters,  has  never  had  any  pub- 
lic repository  of  art. 

OTHER  BUILDINGS  AND  PLACES  OF 
INTEREST. 

The  Cincinnati  Observatory  on  Mount 
Adams,  near  the  eastern  boundary  of  tlie 
city,  is  500  feet  above  low  water,  this 
commanding  situation  giving  great  ad- 
vantages for  making  astronomical  obser- 
vations. The  equatorial  telescope  with 
which  it  is  furnished  has  a focal  length 
of  feet,  and  an  object-glass  12  inches 
in  diameter,  with  a magnifying  power  of 
1,400  times.  The  place  is  now  in  a state 
of  dilapidation,  and  has  been  practically 
abandoned  as  an  observatory,  from  want 
of  support. 

The  Water -Works^  on  East  Front 
Street,  near  the  Little  Miami  Depot,  are 
of  great  magnitude,  and,  being  adapted 
to  the  varying  stages  of  water  in  the 
Ohio,  are  an  object  of  curiosity  to  the 
stranger. 

There  are  four  pumping-engines,  the 
average  capacity  of  which  is  a little  less 
than  30,000,000  gallons  per  day.  The 
average  summer  consumption  by  the 
city  is  24,000,000  gallons  per  day,  and 
during  the  rest  of  the  year  a little  less 
than  14,000,000  gallons  per  day.  The 
question  of  water-supply  has  become 
serious,  and  two  more  engines,  with  a 
pumping  capacity  of  20,000,000  gallons 
per  day,  are  called  for,  in  order  to  be 
provided  in  case  of  accident  to  the  en- 
gines now  in  use,  or  of  extraordinary  emer- 
gency, as  of  fire. 

The  reservoir  holds  only  5,000,000  gal- 
lons, so  that  the  water  is  supplied  al- 
most direct  from  the  Ohio  River  without 
the  necessary  process  of  “ settling,”  but, 
when  the  new  reservoir  in  Eden  Park  is 
completed,  there  will  be  an  abundant 
reserve  of  water  for  all  purposes  and 
emergencies. 

LongworthDs  Wine-Cellar,  at  the  east 
end  of  Sixth  Street,  is  one  of  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  city,  the  business  of  wine- 
growing being  comparatively  new  in  this 
country.  This  cellar,  or,  rather,  collec- 
tion of  cellars,  is  admirably  suited  for 


Cincinnati.]  NEW  YORK  TO  CINCINNATI,  ROUTE  V.  [Cincinnati. 


the  purpose,  and  contains  immense  quan- 
tities of  wine. 

Pork-packing  Houses  are  numerous, 
and  a visit  to  one  of  them  is  sure  to  re- 
pay the  tourist.  The  details  in  regard 
to  killing,  cutting  up,  and  packing  hogs, 
would  he  out  of  place  here ; but  we 
would  advise  the  gentlemen,  at  least, 
who  may  come  to  Cincinnati,  to  visit  some 
one  of  the  largest  of  these  houses  and 
see  the  neatness  and  dexterity  with  which 
these  animals  can  be  disposed  of  at  the 
rate  of  200,000  per  day. 

“OVER  THE  EHIN-E.’* 

More  than  a third  of  the  residents  of 
Cincinnati  are  Germans,  or  people  of 
German  parentage.  They  occupy  the 
large  section  of  the  city  north  of  the 
Miami  Canal,  which  enters  northwest  at 
the  Brighton  House,  and  comes  south  as 
far  as  Eleventh  Street,  then,  turning  due 
east  from  Plum,  runs  away  beyond  Broad- 
way, emptying  into  the  Ohio  River  near 
the  Miami  Railroad  depot  in  the  extreme 
eastern  part  of  the  city. 

The  visitor  finds  himself  in  an  entirely 
different  country  “ over  the  Rhine,”  for 
he  hears  no  language  but  German, 
and  all  the  sign-boards  and  even  the 
placards  on  the  walls  are  in  German. 
The  business,  the  dwellings,  beer-gardens, 
theatres,  halls,  and  churches,  all  remind 
the  European  tourist  of  Germany,  and 
this  as  well  as  a love  for  the  familiar 
home-name  made  the  German-Americans 
call  the  canal  after  the  noble  river  from 
whose  vine-clad  hills  their  fathers  came. 

The  halls  are  a noticeable  feature, 
Arheiter  and  Turner  Halls  being  the 
largest.  These  are  both  at  the  upper  end 
of  Walnut  Street,  and  are  immense  build- 
ings, each  containing,  besides  very  large 
assembly-rooms,  a number  of  small  halls 
for  the  accommodation  of  societies. 

There  are  several  other  halls,  used 
mainly  by  musical  societies,  of  which 
there  are  four,  embracing  over  a thou- 
sand instrumental  and  vocal  performers. 
This  part  of  the  city  is  remarkable  for  its 
cleanly  appearance  and  the  density  of  its 
population,  tenement-houses  being  a prom- 
inent characteristic. 

Edibles  of  German  character  and  prep- 
aration, good  music,  and  a good  glass  of 
beer  or  Rhine  wine,  can  always  be  had  in 


this  quartet*.  The  beer-cellars  are  a 
wonderful  feature  to  those  unacquainted 
with  the  underground  accommodation 
necessary  for  brewing  and  subsequent 
storage,  and  they  can  be  found  almost 
anywhere  “ over  the  Rhine.” 

MANUFACTURES. 

Cincinnati  is  steadily  progressing  in  its 
march  to  the  front  rank  with  the  great 
manufacturing  cities  of  the  world,  and  is 
now  estimated  as  the  third  in  importance 
in  the  United  States.  Among  its  chief 
manufactures,  and  those  that  add  im- 
mensely to  its  importance  and  revenue, 
are  furniture,  steamboats  for  river  and  sea- 
coast  trade ; iron-clads  for  naval  warfare, 
its  marine  ways  and  dry-docks  affording 
it  special  advantages ; machinery  of  every 
description,  from  large  first-class  steam- 
engines  down  to  simple  portable  corn  and 
sugar  mills ; church  bells  and  organs  ; 
pianos,  gas,  water,  and  steam  pipes  ; sur- 
gical instruments  and  cutlery  ; stores  and 
hollow-ware ; clothing,  silk  and  cotton, 
trunks  and  valises,  carriages  and  wagons, 
chemicals  and  medicines,  paints,  oils,  and 
varnish,  glue,  starch,  soap,  candles,  and 
glycerine ; lard  and  lard-oil,  sashes,  win- 
dow-blinds, doors,  and  portable  houses, 
ready  for  shipment ; cooperage,  hair- 
work  in  every  shape  ; whiskey,  wine,  and 
beer,  the  excellence  of  which  is  unsur- 
passed. Its  high-wines  are  shipped  in 
great  quantities  to  Europe,  Asia,  and 
Africa,  and  it  is  conceded  by  intelligent 
observers  that  no  other  city  in  the  Union 
sends  from  its  railroad  depots  and 
wharves  a greater  variety  of  its  own 
manufactures  in  proportion  to  its  gener- 
al commerce. 

peomenaTdes  and  drives. 

Fourth  Street,  from  Pike  Street  on  the 
east,  to  Park  Street  on  the  west,  is  the 
fashionable  promenade.  It  embraces  some 
of  the  most  elegant  private  residences 
and  beautiful  stores  in  the  city  ; but  there 
are  besides.  Eighth  Street  from  Vine  west- 
ward ; Seventh  and  Sixth  Street,  from 
Mound  westward.  The  portion  of  Free- 
man Street  lying  along  the  Lincoln  Park 
is  a favorite  promenade. 

Pike  Street  from  Third  to  Fifth,  along 
the  old  Longworth  homestead,  is  known 
as  the  “ Lovers’  Walk.” 


89 


Cincinnati.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Columbus. 


The  drives  most  esteemed  are  “the 
Avenue,”  from  the  Brighton  House,  at 
the  junction  of  Hamilton  Road  and  Free- 
man Street,  to  Spring  Grove  Cemetery, 
and  thence  around  Clifton  and  Avondale, 
returning  to  the  city  by  way  of  Mount 
Auburn  on  the  extreme  east  from  the 
starting-point.  These  drives  afford  the 
best  means  for  obtaining  an  understand- 
ing of  the  location  and  situation  of  Cin- 
cinnati, besides  exhibiting  the  unquestion- 
able good  taste  and  opulence  of  its  citizens. 

From  the  Clifton  Heights,  Spring-Grove 
Cemetery  is  seen  lying  in  beautiful  repose, 
and  the  lovely  landscape,  undulating  and 
dotted  with  elegant  residences  and  pretty 
villas,  stretches  away  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach. 

From  Mount  Auburn  the  grandeur  of 
the  Ohio  valleys  may  be  appreciated. 
The  view  from  that  elevation  takes  in  the 
sinuosities  of  the  Ohio  and  the  serrated 
hills  among  which  it  winds  for  several 
miles,  while  the  great,  noisy  city  is  seen 
lying  in  smoky  obscurity,  almost  at  the 
tourist’s  feet.  This  view  is  only  equalled 
in  beauty  and  extent  by  that  from  the 
more  eastern  elevation  of  Eden  Park. 

OEMETEKIES. 

Spring  Grove^  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
cemeteries  in  the  West,  lies  three  miles 
northwest  of  Cincinnati  in  the  valley  of 
the  Mah-ket-e-wa  (Mill  Creek),  and  is  ap- 
proached by  a splendid  avenue,  one 
hundred  feet  wide;  also  by  the  Cincin- 
nati, Hamilton  & Dayton  Railway,  which 
has  a station  immediately  adjoining  the 
grounds. 

The  site  was  selected  in  1844,  and  the 
charter  granted  in  1845.  The  place  was 
named  Spring  Grove  because  abounding 
with  springs  and  groves  of  trees.  It  em- 
braces about  450  acres,  the  greater  por- 
tion of  which  once  lay  flat  and  marshy. 
The  western  border  slopes  upward  into  a 
noble  spur,  along  which  a fine  carriage- 
way has  been  constructed.  The  plan  is 
designed  to  preserve  and  impart  a natural 
appearance,  and  to  conceal  the  hand  of 
art.  Fine  avenues  wind  around  miniature 
lakes,  shaded  by  many  varieties  of  indi- 
genous trees  and  shrubs,  and  lead  the 
visitor  to  an  ever-changing  landscape,  an 
effect  produced  by  rare  perfection  bf 
skill  and  taste  in  landscape-gardening. 

40 


The  monuments  are  numerous,  and  dis- 
play taste  and  judgment.  Many  of  them 
are  half  concealed  by  masses  of  luxuriant 
foliage. 

The  citizens  erected  a fine  bronze 
statue,  in  1864,  to  the  memory  of  the  Ohio 
Volunteers  in  the  war  for  the  Union, 
which  is  worthy  of  note.  It  represents  a 
United  States  soldier  on  guard,  standing 
on  a granite  pedestal  at  the  junction  of 
Lake  Shore  and  Central  Avenues.  The 
soldiers’  graves  lie  in  two  circular  lots  a 
little  distance  from  the  monument,  and 
embrace  an  area  of  22,532  square  feet. 

St.  Bernard  Cemetery,  in  sight  of  Spring 
Grove,  is  an  old  burying-place  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church.  It  is  little  else 
than  an  accumulation  of  grave-stones. 

The  Wesleyan  Cemetery  is  a Methodist 
ground,  and  can  be  taken  on  the  way  to 
Spring  Grove,  situated  as  it  is  near  Cum- 
minsville. 

The  Jewish  Cemetery  is  in  the  eastern 
suburbs  of  the  city,  but  it  is  small,  and 
not  remarkable  for  landscape  beauty  or 
monumental  attractiveness. 


BOUTJEJ  VI. 

YORK  TO  CINCINKATL 

Yia  Fan-handle  Route.  (Time.  28  hr s.— Fare, 

$20.) 

This  is  identical  with  Route  IV.,  as  far 
as  Columbus,  Ohio.  {See  page  25.) 

At  Columbus  the  track  of  the  Pitts- 
hurg,  Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Railway  is 
left ; the  through-cars  for  Cincinnati 
taking  the  track  of  the  Little  Aliami 
Railway. 

Stations. — Columbus,  638  miles  from 
New  York  ; Alton,  614  ; West  Jefferson, 
652 ; London  (connects  with  London 
Branch  of  Cincinnati,  Sandusky  & Cleve- 
land Railway),  663  ; South  Charleston, 
674 ; Cedarville,  685 ; Xenia  (connects 
with  Dayton,  Xenia  & Western  Railway, 
and  with  Branch  to  Springfield),  693 ; 
Corwin,  707 ; Fort  Ancient,  717  ; Morrow 
(connects  with  Cincinnati  & Muskingum 
Valley  Railway),  722  ; South  Lebanon, 
726 ; Foster’s,  731 ; Loveland  (connects 
with  Marietta  & Cincinnati  Railway),  735  ; 
Milford,  744  ; Cincinnati,  758. 

Columl>us,  O.  (638  miles).  {See 
page  26.) 


London.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII. 


[Stations. 


SjOikSom,  (663  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  village,  and  the  capital  of 
Madison  County.  It  contains  a fine 
Union  school-house.  The  London  Branch 
vf  the  Cincinnati^  Sandusky  <&  Cleveland 
Bailway  connects  here. 

^oiitSa  Claarlestoia,  O.  (674 
miles),  is  a beautiful  little  village. 

Xenia,  O.  (693  miles),  is,  like  a 
large  proportion  of  the  Ohio  towns,  regu- 
larly and  handsomely  built,  the  streets 
being  shaded  with  large  forest-trees.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Greene  County,  and  con- 
tains a handsome  court-house.  It  is 
upon  the  Little  Miami  River ^ and  has  a 
good  water-power,  which  is  utilized  by  a 
number  of  manufactures.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  undulating,  fertile, 
and  highly  cultivated ; limestone  is  abun- 
dant in  the  vicinity,  and  all  these  elements 
of  prosperity  are  rendered  of  tenfold 
value  by  the  railroad  facilities  possessed 
by  the  place.  The  Layton  dh  Xenia  and 
Layton  & Western  Railways  connect  at 
this  point.  A Branch  to  Yellow  Springs 
and  Springfield  diverges  here. 

Xellow  Springs,  O.  (10  miles 
from  Xenia\  is  a favorite  resort  for  resi- 
dents of  Cincinnati,  and  is  the  site  of 
Antioch  College.  East  of  the  college  is  a 
picturesque  ravine,  presenting  varied 
attractions  to  the  tourist.  The  Yellow 
Spring  is  about  one-half  mile  northeast 
of  the  college.  It  flows  directly  from  the 
limestone  rock,  and  discharges  over  600 
gallons  a minute.  At  Clifton^  near  by,  the 
scenery  is  charming  and  varied,  its 
interest  being  enhanced  by  the  Little 
Miami  River,  which  here  in  a distance  of 
a few  miles  falls  200  feet.  The  water 
has  excavated  in  the  solid  limestone  a 
narrow  channel  or  canon  of  great  depth. 
The  hotels  are  excellent,  and  no  pleasant- 
er summer  resort  can  be  desired.  This 
place  is  only  9 miles  from  Springfield,  at 
the  junction  of  the  Branch  with  the  Cin- 
cinnati, Sandusky  db  Cleveland  Railway, 
and  the  Atlantic  do  Great  Western  Livis- 
ion  o f the  Erie  Railway. 

Morrow,  O.  (722  miles),  is  a thriv- 
ing village  at  the  junction  with  the  Cincin- 
nati  (&  Muskingum  Valley,  formerly  known 
as  the  Cincinnati  & Zanesville  Railway. 

Kiovelan^l,  O.  (735  miles),  is  the 
junction  of  the  Marietta  do  Cincinnati 
Railway. 


Millbr^,  O.  (744  miles),  is  a flour- 
ishing village  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
Little  Miami  River  to  the  railroad.  It  is 
connected  with  the  railway  station  by  a 
bridge. 

Cimcisiiaati,  (758  miles),  has 
already  been  described.  {See  page  31.) 
Connections  are  made  here  vath  all  di- 
vergent railways,  and  with  the  Cincinnati 
do  Louisville  U.  S.  mail  line  steamers. 


n O UTE  VII. 

XEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS. 

Via  Pennsylvania  Central  and  connecting 
Railways,  known  as  the  Pan-handle  Route, 
crime,  42  hrs. — Fare,  $27.) 

As  far  as  Bradford  Junction,  Ohio,  on 
the  Columbus,  Chicago  db  Indiana  Ceniral 
Railway,  this  route  is  identical  with 
Route  IV.  {See  page  25.)  At  Bradford 
Junction  the  road  branches  ; one  division 
running  to  Chicago  (Route  lY.) ; the 
other,  which  we  now  follow,  running  to 
Indianapolis,  and  there  connecting  with 
the  St.  Louis,  Vandalia,  Terre  Haute  d: 
Indianapolis  Railway  for  St.  Louis. 

Stations  on  Columbus,  Chicago  & 
Indiana  Central  Railway. — Bradford 
Junction,  721  miles  from  New  York; 
Gettysburg,  725 ; Greenville  (connects 
with  Dayton  & Union  Railway),  722  ; 
Weaver’s,  738 ; New  Madison,  743 ; 
Urley’s,  747 ; New  Paris,  752 ; Rich- 
mond (connects  with  Dayton  & West- 
ern Railway,  and  Cincinnati,  Richmond 
& Chicago  Railway,  composed  of  Cin- 
cinnati, Hamilton  & Dayton  Railway  from 
Cincinnati  to  Richmond,  and  of  Columbus, 
Chicago  & Indiana  Central  Railway  from 
Richmond  to  Chicago),  758  ; Centreville, 
764 ; Germantown,  771  ; Cambridge 
City  (connects  with  railways  diverging), 
773  ; Dublin,  775  ; Lewisville,  782 ; Og- 
den, 788  ; Raysville,  791  ; Knights  town, 
792  ; Charlottesville,  797  ; Greenfield, 
805 ; Philadelphia,  809 ; Cumberland, 
815  ; Indianapolis  (connects  with  all  rail- 
ways centring  there),  826. 

Stations  on  the  St.  Louis,  Vandalia, 
Terre  Haute  & Indianapolis  Railway. 
— Indianapolis,  826  ; Fairview,  829  ; 
Bridgeport,  835 ; Oak-plain,  839 ; Plain- 
field,  840  ; Cartersburg,  843  ; Belleville, 
845;  Clayton,  846;  Amo,  851;  Coates- 
41 


Bradford  Junction.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Greenfield. 


ville,  854 ; Fillmore,  859 ; Grcencastle, 
865 ; Junction  (connects  with  Louis- 
ville, New  Albany  & Chicago  Railway), 
866  ; Hamricks,  870  ; Reels  ville,  873  ; 
Eagles,  876  ; Harmony,  879 ; Brazil,  883  ; 
Newburg,  885  ; Staunton,  887 ; Cleve- 
land, 889;  Seelyville,  891;  Terre  Haute 
(connects  with  Evansville  k Crawfords- 
ville  Railway,  for  Yincennes,  Evansville, 
and  Henderson),  899  ; Woodville,  909  ; 
Griffiths,  912;  Marshall,  916;  Auburn, 
922 ; Martinsville,  927 ; Casey,  934 ; 
Greenup,  943 ; Pleasantville,  948 ; Spit- 
ler’s,  956  ; Teutopolis,  962 ; Effingham 
(connects  with  Chicago  Division  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway,  for  Chicago  and  Cairo), 
966  ; Fenkhouser,  970  ; Altamont,  978  ; 
St.  Elmo,  984  ; Brownstown,  990 ; Bluff 
City,  993  ; Yandalia  (connects  with  main 
line  of  Illinois  Central  Railway,  for  Du- 
buque and  Dunleith),  997 ; Hagerstown, 
1,001 ; Mulberry  Grove,  1,007  ; Hender- 
son, 1,011;  Greenville,  1,015;  Stubble- 
field, 1,019  ; Pocahontas,  1,025  ; Oakdale, 
1,029 ; Highland,  1,034;  St.  Jacob’s,  1,039 ; 
Troy,  1,046 ; Confidence,  1,049 ; Collins- 
ville, 1,053  ; Hunter’s,  1,057  ; East  St. 
Louis,  1,064 ; St.  Louis,  1,065. 

imction,  O.  (721 
miles).  {See  page  28.) 

^reesB. ville,  (722  miles),  is  the 

capital  of  Darke  County,  and  one  of 
the  oldest  towns  in  the  State.  It  is 
noted  as  being  the  site  of  Fort  Greenville, 
built  by  General  Wayne  in  1793,  and  as 
being  the  spot  where  he  concluded  his 
treaty  with  the  Indians.  The  Dayton 
Union  Railway  connects  here. 

lud.  (758  miles),  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  prosperous 
towns  in  Indiana.  It  is  situated  on  the 
cast  fork  of  Whitewater  River,  in  Wayne 
County,  and  in  an  agricultural  region  of 
great  fertility.  It  has  an  abundant 
water-power,  and  is  the  seat  of  numerous 
mills  and  manufactories.  In  the  manu- 
facture of  agricultural  implements  and 
farm  machinery  Richmond  has  especial 
prominence.  It  is  the  centre  of  a con- 
siderable trade  with  the  surrounding 
country,  has  many  pleasing  features,  is 
well  built,  and  contains  some  handsome 
churches  and  residences.  The  popula- 
tion of  Richmond  and  Wayne  County  is 
largely  composed  of  Quakers.  They  are 
noted  for  their  catcrprise,  thrift,  and  en- 
42 


lightcnracnt,  and  Wayne  County  ranks 
among  the  first  in  the  State  for  prosperity 
and  the  general  diffusion  of  education. 
Richmond  is  the  seat  of  Earlham  College, 
a Quaker  institution;  and  is  also  the 
place  of  the  Indiana  Yearly  Meeting  of 
the  Orthodox  church  of  the  Quaker  de- 
nomination— embracing  the  territory  of 
Eastern  and  Northern  Indiana,  part  of 
Western  Ohio,  Kansas,  and  part  of  Illi- 
nois. The  Dayton  do  Western  and  Cincin^ 
naii,  Richmond  <k  Chicago  (composed  of 
the  Cincinnati^  Hamilton  efi  Dayton^  and 
one  of  the  divisions  of  the  Columbus^ 
Chicago  efi  Indiana  Central)  Railways 
connect  here.  Population  in  1870,  9,443. 

Cciatreville,  laid.  (764  miles), 
is  the  county-seat  of  AYayne  County.  It 
is  pleasantly  located,  and  has  a number 
of  handsome  residences.  Its  trade  is  not 
large,  and  is  confined  to  its  immediate 
vicinity,  owing  to  the  greater  impor- 
tance of  the  neighboring  town  of  Rich- 
mond. 

Cam'bridLgc  City,  lad.  (773 
miles),  is  also  in  Wayne  County,  and  is  a 
growing  town  on  the  Whitewater  River. 
It  has  some  importance  as  a railway 
centre.  Its  manufacturing  interests  are 
considerable,  and  increasing.  The  fol- 
lowing railways  connect  here  : Whitewater 
Valley  ; Fort  Wayne.,  Muncie  & Cincin^ 
nati  ; Cincinnati  & India'napolis  Junction^ 
and  the  Columbus  (Ind.)  dc  Cambridge 
City  Branch  of  Jeffersonville^  Madison 
Indianapolis  Railway. 

Mnl^l&tstOTVii,  lad.  (792  miles), 
a thriving  town,  situated  on  Mue  River., 
has  considerable  manufacturing  and  busi- 
ness interests  compared  with  its  popula- 
tion, and  is  surrounded  by  a fertile 
region.  One  *and  a half  mile  from  this 
place  are  mineral  springs  that  once  had 
considerable  local  celebrity,  and  were 
quite  a resort  for  invalids.  The  building 
located  at  their  site  was  purchased  a few 
years  ago  by  the  State,  and  has  since 
been  greatly  enlarged  and  converted  into 
a Soldiers'  Home  for  the  disabled  soldiers 
of  Indiana,  and  the  indigent  widows  and 
orphans  of  the  soldiers  from  Indiana, 
who  fell  during  the  war. 

Crreen^leld,  Snd.  (805  miles), 
the  county-seat  of  Hancock  County,  is 
situated  in  a productive  region,  and  is 
a thriving  place. 


Indianapolis.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST. 

End.iaia»|>olis,  liad..  (826  miles), 
is  the  capital  and  the  largest  city  of  Indi- 
ana. It  is  on  the  west  fork  of  White 
River ^ and  is  nearly  in  the  geographical 
centre  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  on  an 
extensive  and  very  fertile  plain,  a,nd  is  a 
striking  illustration  of  the  rapid  progress 
in  the  western  part  of  this  country ; for 
in  1820,  when  the  capital  was  located 
here,  the  whole  country  within  a radius 
of  forty  miles  was  an  unbroken  forest. 
In  the  centre  of  the  original  plot  of  the 
city  is  a circular  park,  and  from  the  ex- 
terior corners  of  the  four  squares  en- 
closing this  park  radiate  four  avenues 
that  intersect  (with  the  exception  of  a 
few  minor  avenues)  the  other  streets 
diagonally ; while,  with  these  exceptions, 
the  streets  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles.  Meanwhile  the  city  has  extended 
greatly  on  all  sides  of  the  original  plot. 
The  principal  business-houses  were  long 
confined  to  Washington  Street ; now  South 
Meridian  Street  has  most  of  the  large 
wholesale  and  jobbing  establishments, 
and  the  retail  business  is  rapidly  extend- 
ing up  Pennsylvania  Street,  and  up  and 
down  Illinois  Street,  on  cither  side  of 
Washington.  The  latter  is  a handsome 
street,  120  feet  in  width.  The  great 
width  of  all  the  streets  contributes  much 
to  the  attractiveness  and  health  of  the 
city. 

Indianapolis  is  one  of  the  greatest  rail- 
road centres  in  the  West,  and  it  has  been 
termed  “ The  Railroad  City.”  No  fewer 
than  twelve  completed  railways  converge 
here,  and  two  others  are  projected,  one 
of  which  is  under  contract. 

The  health  of  the  city  is  shown  by  the 
fact  that  the  death-rate  the  past  year 
was  considerably  less  then  one  per  cent, 
of  the  population. 

Indianapolis  is  also  noted  for  its  supe- 
rior system  of  public  graded  schools, 
sustained  by  a large  annual  revenue  from 
taxation,  and  affording,  through  the  vari- 
ous grades,  all  the  branches  of  a com- 
plete education. 

Its  manufacturing  interests  are  various 
and  extensive,  and  are  increasing  rapidly. 
Being  but  40  miles  from  the  eastern  out- 
crop of  the  great  coal-fields  of  Western 
Indiana,  which  contain  about  8,000  square 
miles,  and  which  are  penetrated  by  five 
railways  diverging  from  Indianapolis,  the 


LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII.  [Indianapolis. 

city  has  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  cheap 
coal,  of  a superior  quality,  offering  great 
inducements  to  manufacturing  of  all  de- 
scriptions, and  especially  (owing  to  pecu- 
liar virtues  in  certain  varieties  of  the 
coal)  to  the  manufacture  of  iron  and  iron 
products. 

OHUEOHES. 

There  are  about  fifty  churches  in  the 
city,  besides  a number  of  missions,  and 
congregations  that  have  no  houses  of  wor- 
ship of  their  own.  Of  the  churches  the 
principal  in  respect  of  architectural  beau- 
ty are  the  following : 

Episcopal. — Christ  Churchy  northeast 
corner  of  Meridian  and  Circle  Streets  ; 
Bt,  PaaVs^  southeast  corner  of  Illinois  and 
New  York  Streets. 

Methodist.  — Meridian  Street  M.  E. 
Churchy  southwest  corner  of  Meridian  and 
New  York  Streets ; Robc^'ts  Park  M.  E. 
Church,  northeast  corner  of  Vermont  and 
Delaware  Streets ; Grace  Church,  north- 
east eorner  of  Market  and  East  Streets. 

Presbyterian. — First  Church,  south- 
west corner  of  Pennsylvania  and  New 
York  Streets  ; Second  Church,  northwest 
corner  of  Pennsylvania  and  Vermont 
Streets. 

Baptist.  — First  Church,  northeast 
corner  of  Pennsylvania  and  New  York 
Streets. 

Roman  Catholic. — Cathedral,  on  South 
Tennessee  Street. 

Congregational. — Plymouth  Church, 
northwest  corner  of  Meridian  and  Circle 
Streets. 

All  these  are  in  the  Gothic  style,  and 
are  elegant  edifices.  Other  prominent 
churches  are  : Third  Presbyterian,  north- 
east corner  of  Illinois  and  Ohio  Streets  ; 
Fourth  Presbyterian  southwest  corner  of 
Delaware  and  Market  Streets ; Jewish 
Synagogue,  East  Market  Street ; Christian 
Chapel,  corner  of  Ohio  and  Delaware 
Streets. 

STATE  IN^STITUTIONS. 

The  State-House  is  on  Washington 
Street,  at  its  intersection  with  Tennessee 
Street.  It  is  a venerable-looking  edifice, 
built  in  1835,  and  is  of  the  Doric  order 
of  architecture,  save  its  incongruous 
dome.  At  the  time  of  its  erection,  it  was 
regarded  as  an  elegant  and  imposing 
43 


Indianapolis.] 


WESTERN  Tour. 


[Greencastle. 


structure ; but  its  exterior  has  become 
shattered  and  defaced  by  time.  It  con- 
tains the  Governor’s  rooms,  and  those  of 
the  State  geologist;  the  State  archives 
and  State  Library,  and  the  Assembly 
Chambers. 

The  State  Lunatic  Asylum  was  founded 
in  1848,  and  the  buildings  have  twice 
been  enlarged.  Their  total  cost  has  been 
$350,000.  The  principal  building  is  a 
noble  structure,  in  the  renaissance  style, 
and  has  accommodations  for  525  patients. 
It  is  one  and  a half  mile  west  of  the 
city  limits,  is  lighted  with  gas,  and  has  a 
system  of  water-works  of  its  own.  Its 
grounds  consist  of  160  acres,  a portion 
of  which  is  beautifully  adorned. 

The  State  Institute  for  the  Blind  was 
founded  in  1847,  and  cost  $300,000.  It 
is  on  North  Street,  between  Illinois  and 
Meridian,  and  contains  eight  acres.  The 
main  building  has  a centre  and  two  wings, 
presenting  a front  of  150  feet,  and  is  five 
stories  in  height.  Each  of  the  three 
sections  is  surmounted  by  a Corinthian 
cupola,  the  centre  having  a portico  of  the 
Ionic  order.  The  material  of  the  build- 
ing is  sandstone,  and  stucco  and  brick. 

The  State  Institute  for  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  was  likewise  founded  in  1848. 
The  present  buildings  have  been  erected 
at  a cost  of  $220,000.  Connected  with 
the  institution  are  105  acres  of  ground, 
worth  as  many  thousands  of  dollars. 
The  grounds  more  immediately  surround- 
ing the  buildings  are  beautifully  laid  out 
in  walks  and  drives,  and  are  elaborately 
adorned  with  shrubbery,  flowering  plants, 
forest  and  shade  trees,  etc.  It  is  per- 
haps the  most  beautiful  spot,  in  the 
summer-time,  in  the  city.  The  Institute 
is  just  east  of  the  city  limits. 

ThQ  Reformatory  for  Womeii  and  Girls, 
now  in  course  of  erection,  just  east  of 
the  city,  will  be  a large  and  commodious 
structure,  answering  the  purpose  of  a re- 
formatory and  prison  for  female  offenders. 

OTHER  PROMINENT  BUILDINGS,  ETO. 

The  United  States  Arsenal,  one  mile 
north  by  east  of  the  city  limits,  is  a hand- 
some building.  It  has  connected  with  it 
60  acres  of  ground,  and  has  picturesque 
surroundings. 

The  Northwestern  Christian  University, 
44 


in  the  northeastern  suburb  of  the  city, 
is  a flourishing  institution,  built  in  1852. 
It  is  open  to  both  sexes.  The  edifice  is 
handsome  and  commodious,  and  is  beau- 
tifully located  amid  forest-trees. 

Other  prominent  buildings  are:  Odd- 
Fellows^  Hall,  of  the  Byzantine  order, 
corner  of  Washington  and  Pennsylvania 
Streets ; Academy  of  Music,  of  the  re- 
naissance order,  corner  of  Illinois  and 
Ohio  Streets  ; Masonic  Hall,  of  tlie  Doric 
order,  corner  of  Washington  and  Ten- 
nessee Streets ; United  States  Dost- Office 
building,  corner  of  Pennsylvania  and 
Market  Streets,  containing  the  Post- 
Office,  United  States  Court-Rooms,  and 
offices  of  various  Federal  officials ; Journal 
and  Sentinel  newspaper  buildings ; Baler 
House,  Mozart  Hall,  etc.  There  are  also 
many  elegant  residences  and  business 
blocks,  and  several  pretty  parks. 

The  Union  Depot,  with  a length  of  420 
Teet,  fronts  on  Louisiana  Street,  between 
Illinois  and  Meridian,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  spacious  and  convenient  structures 
of  the  kind  in  the  country — all  of  the 
twelve  lines  of  railway  that  centre  here 
receiving  and  discharging  their  passen- 
gers at  this  one  depot. 

The  following  railways  centre  here : 
Indianapolis  Cincinnati,  and  Lafay- 
ette db  Indianapolis,  now  consolidated 
under  the  name  of  Indianapolis,  Cincin- 
nati & Lafayette  ; Indianapolis,  Blooming- 
ton & Western;  St.  Louis,  Alton,  Terre 
Haute  (k  Indianapolis ; St.  Louis,  Van- 
dalia,  Terre  Haute  do  Indianapolis  ; Indi- 
anapolis dh  Vincennes;  Jeffersonville  do 
Indianapolis,  and  Madison  <&  Indianapolis, 
now  consolidated  under  the  title  of  Jeffer- 
sonville, Madison  do  Indianapolis  ; Cincin- 
nati Junction  ; Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cin- 
cinnati  dh  Indianapolis  ; Indianapolis, 
Peru  do  Chicago ; and  Columbus,  Chicago 
do  Indiana  Central.  Population  in  1860, 
18,611 ; in  1870,  40,936. 

(840  miles),  is 
a growing  village,  surrounded  by  a flour- 
ishing agricultural  region.  It  is  the  seat 
of  the  Western  Yeai'ly  Meeting  of  the 
Orthodox  Quakers  of  Western  and  South- 
ern Indiana,  and  part  of  Western  Illinois. 
The  Indiana  House  of  Ref  uge  (for  boys) 
is  located  here. 

Oreeaicastlc,  Ind.  (865  miles), 
is  the  county-seat  of  Putnam  County,  and 


Brazil.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII. 


[Vandalia. 


is  noted  for  the  great  educational  advan- 
tages it  affords.  In  addition  to  the  usual 
public  and  high  schools,  it  contains  a 
young  ladies’  academy,  and  a collegiate 
institution  known  as  the  Indiana  Anbury 
University.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
high  table-land,  and  is  the  commercial 
centre  of  a rich  farming  and  extensive 
stock-raising  region.  Various  manufac- 
tories have  also  sprung  up  here  within 
the  past  few  years.  The  Louisville^  New 
Albany  d:  Chicago  Railway  connects  here ; 
and  it  is  also  on  the  line  of  the  St.  Louis^ 
Alton^  Terre  Haute  do  Indianapolis  Rail- 
way. Population,  3,232. 

i5i*a.zll9  ln.d.  (883  miles),  is  a vil- 
lage that  has  recently  exhibited  a re- 
markable growth  by  reason  of  the  devel- 
opment and  utilization  of  the  coal-fields 
and  iron  region  of  Western  Indiana,  of 
which  it  is  the  central  and  most  impor- 
tant point.  By  virtue  of  its  favorable 
location,  manufactories  are  rapidly  spring- 
ing up,  numerous  collieries  and  blast-fur- 
naces have  been  established  in  the  vicinity, 
and  the  population  is  rapidly  increasing. 
Population  in  1870,  2,773. 

'Terre  Haute,  Imd.  (899  miles), 
the  capital  of  Vigo  County,  is  on  the 
western  border  of  Harrison  Prairie,  one 
of  the  most  fertile  and  attractive  sections 
of  the  State.  It  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Wabash^  at  an 
elevation  of  about  60  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  river.  The  streets  are  wide,  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are  abun- 
dantly provided  with  shade-trees.  Some 
portions  of  the  place  present  quite  a 
rural  aspect,  gardens  and  ornamental 
grounds  being  attached  to  many  of  the 
residences.  It  contains  a fine  court- 
house, a town-hall,  several  fine  public 
halls,  and  a number  of  churches,  some  of 
which  are  very  handsome.  The  river  is 
spanned  at  this  point  by  a fine  bridge. 
The  trade  of  Terre  Haute  is  large,  and  its 
facilities  for  the  shipment  of  grain,  etc., 
unusually  good.  The  Wabash  d;  Erie  Ca- 
nal passes  through  the  town,  and  the  fol- 
lowing railways  connect  here : the  Evans- 
ville d;  Crawfordsville — ^now  completed, 
except  a short  section  between  Rockville 
and  Crawfordsville,  and  being  extended, 
also,  from  Rockville  to  Chicago,  of  which 
extension  all  but  the  section  between 
Danville,  111.,  and  Rockville  is  completed ; 


the  St.  LouiSy  AltoUy  Terre  Haute  ds 
Indianapolis ; and  the  St.  LouiSy  Yan- 
daliay  Terre  Haute  k Indianapolis y over 
which  we  are  now  travelling.  The  portion 
of  the  latter  route  between  Terre  Haute 
and  St.Louis  was  opened  in  July,  1870.  By 
this  road  a distance  of  25  miles  is  saved, 
and  two  lines  of  communication  between 
Terre  Haute  and  St.  Louis  are  secured. 
The  city  has  also  a considerable  trade  by 
the  river,  which  is  navigable  a part  of  the 
year  as  far  as  and  above  this  point. 

Terre  Haute  has  excellent  education- 
al advantages.  St.  Mary''Sy  a Catholic  Sem- 
inary of  considerable  note,  for  the  edu- 
cation of  young  ladies,  is  near  this  city. 

The  State  Normal  Schooly  an  institution 
to  qualify  students  as  teachers,  is  located 
here.  Its  cost  is  $230,000 ; and  its  lo- 
cation at  Terre  Haute  was  secured  by  a 
donation  of  $50,000  and  the  gift  of  the 
grounds. 

By  reason  of  its  proximity  to  the  coal- 
fields, the  manufacturing  interests  of  the 
place  are  rapidly  extending.  Population 
in  1870,  17,105. 

Sll.  (916  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Clarke  County.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  a rich  agricultural  region,  and  is  a 
growing  place. 

Hreeiiitp,  Ell,  (943  miles),  is  lo- 
cated upon  Embarras  Prairie,  and  until 
about  twelve  years  ago  was  the  capital 
of  Cumberland  County.  At  that  date 
the  capital  was  removed  to  Prairie  Cityy 
which  had  a depressing  effect  on  the 
growth  of  Greenup.  Its  population  hard- 
ly exceeds  800 ; but  its  prospects,  by 
reason  of  its  recently-acquired  railway 
facilities,  are  more  promising  than  be- 
fore. The  surrounding  country  is  well 
adapted  to  farming  purposes. 

EHiiag-lisaiift,  111,  (966  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Effingham  County,  and 
the  junction  of  the  Chicago  Branch  of  the 
Illinois  Central  Railway.  It  is  situated 
near  the  Little  Wabash  River y on  a slight 
eminence,  is  well  drained,  and  nearly  sur- 
rounded by  a small  belt  of  timber.  It 
has  a large  trade,  which  is  increasing 
rapidly,  as  are  also  its  manufacturing 
interests.  Bricks,  especially,  are  made 
here  in  large  quantities.  Population, 
about  2,500. 

Va.HLda.lia.,  Ell,  (997  miles),  the 
capital  of  Fayette  Countv,  was  at  one 
45 


Greenville.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Louis. 


time  the  capital  of  Illinois,  and  was  then 
a very  prosperous  place.  After  the  re- 
moval of  the  capital  to  Springfield,  the 
population  became  very  much  reduced ; 
but,  with  the  railroad  connections  which 
it  now  enjoys,  it  is  entering  upon  a new 
era  of  prosperity.  It  is  situated  on  the 
KasJcaskia  River ^ and  is  the  junction 
with  the  maiifi  line  of  the  Illinois  Central 
Railway, 

^xreenville.  111.  (1,015  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Bond  County,  and  is  a 
prosperous  place,  upon  the  east  bank  of 
Shoal  Creek,  It  has  the  greatest  eleva- 
tion along  the  route  between  Terre  Haute 
and  St.  Louis.  On  the  north  is  some 
timbered  land,  and  on  the  south  a fine 
prairie.  Its  trade  with  the  surrounding 
country  is  good,  and  its  manufacturing 
advantages  are  excellent.  Population, 
about  2,500. 

Mig’lalaiad,  111.  (1,034  miles),  is 
an  enterprising  and  flourishing  town. 
Its  inhabitants  are  mainly  Germans.  It  is 
a place  of  considerable  business ; and, 
for  its  population,  its  manufacturing  in- 
dustries are  both  various  and  extensive. 
It  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a fertile  and 
healthful  region.  Population,  about  2,^700. 

Hast  St.  ELioais,  fill.  (1,064 
miles),  is  the  point  where  all  routes  reach- 
ing St.  Louis  from  the  east  terminate, 
pending  the  building  of  the  great  bridge 
over  the  Mississippi,  described  under  the 
head  of  St,  Louis, 

ST.  LOUIS. 

The  city  of  St.  Louis  is  situated  geo- 
graphically almost  in  the  centre  of  the 
great  valley  of  the  Mississippi  or  basin 
of  the  continent,  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  River,  and  about  half-way 
between  St.  Paul  and  New  Orleans,  and 
Pittsburg  and  Denver  City,  and  by  this 
route  1,065  miles  from  New  York. 

The  topography  of  St.  Louis  County 
consists  of  a system  of  ridges  branching 
from  a water-shed  between  the  Missouri, 
Meramec  and  Mississippi  Rivers.  This 
water-shed  has  a general  altitude  of  200 
feet  above  the  Mississippi  River,  and  has 
numerous  small  ridges  or  arms  branching 
from  it  and  ^yinding  in  serpentine  courses, 
maintaining  this  general  altitude  along 
their  summits,  and  terminating  in  bluffs 
46 


or  low  escarpments  and  declining  grounds 
toward  the  Meramec,  Missouri,  and  Mis- 
sissippi Rivers. 

The  city  is  built  geographically  on  the 
ends  or  termination  of  this  ridge  system, 
extending  some  12  miles  up  and  down 
the  river,  the  ground  rising  gently  from 
the  river  back  for  one  mile  to  Seventeenth 
Street,  which  follows  in  part  tfle  apex  of 
the  first  ridge,  and  is  150  feet  above  the 
river.  The  ground  then  gently  declines, 
and  rises  in  a second  ridge  at  Twenty- 
fifth  Street,  or  Jefferson  Avenue,  and 
parts  of  Grand  Avenue,  and  again  slopes 
and  rises  in  a ridge  at  Cote  Brilliante,  or 
Wilson’s  Hill,  that  is,  four  miles  west  of 
the  river.  This  point  is  some  200  feet 
above  the  river,  and  overlooks  the  city. 

While  New  York  is  limited  to  a barren, 
rocky  island,  Philadelphia  to  a low  ridge 
between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill 
Rivers,  Washington  City  to  a flat,  sterile, 
uninteresting  region,  Chicago  to  land  from 
5 to  15  feet  above  Lake  Michigan,  and 
swampy  prairie  beyond,  Cincinnati  to  a 
small  circuit  surrounded  by  steep  rocky 
hills,  St.  Louis  has  not  only  the  most 
natural  contour  of  surface  for  elevation 
of  residence  streets,  but  also  deep  clay 
over  the  limestone  for  brick,  cellars  and 
sewerage ; foundation  quarries  of  build- 
ing-rock in  all  parts  of  the  city — wells  of 
pure  water  in  the  deep  clays  in  many 
parts  of  the  city,  natural  sewerage  and 
dome-shaped  hills  for  water-works,  and 
essentially  combines  all  the  material  re- 
sources for  a great  city. 

St.  Louis  is  well  built,  but  its  archi- 
tecture is  more  substantial  than  showy. 
The  wide,  paved  streets,  the  spacious 
levee  and  commodious  warehouses ; the 
mills,  machine-shops,  and  manufactories ; 
the  fine  hotels,  churches,  and  public 
buildings ; the  universities,  charitable 
institutions,  public  schools,  and  libra- 
ries ; the  growing  parks,  beautiful  Fair 
grounds,  and  botanical  gardens,  consti- 
tute an  array  of  excellences  and  attrac- 
tions of  which  any  city  may  justly  be 
proud.  The  appearance  of  the  city  from 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi  is  im- 
posing. At  East  St.  Louis  the  eye  some- 
times commands  a view  of  as  many  as  100 
steamboats  lying  at  the  St.  Louis  levee. 

In  1762,  a grant  was  made  by  the 
Governor-General  of  Louisiana,  then  a 


St.  Louis.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII. 


[St.  Louis. 


French  province,  to  Pierre  Liquest  La- 
clede and  his  partners,  composing  the 
“Lousiana  Fur  Company,”  to  establish 
trading-posts  on  the  Mississippi ; and  on 
the  15th  of  February,  1^64,  the  principal 
one  was  established  where  the  city  now 
stands,  and  was  named  St.  Louis.  In 
1803  all  Louisiana  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States.  In  1812  all  of  Louisiana 
north  of  the  33d  degree  of  latitude  was 
organized  as  Missouri  Territory.  In  1822 
St.  Louis  was  chartered  as  a city. 

The  first  census  was  taken  in  1764, 
and  the  population  was  then  120 ; in  1780 
it  was  687;  in  1788, 1,197;  in  1811, 1,400 ; 
in  1820,  4,928  ; in  1830,  5,852  ; in  1840, 
16,469 ; in  1850, 74,439 ; in  1860, 160,773  ; 
and  in  1870,  312,963. 

In  1813,  the  first  brick  house  was 
erected ; in  1812,  the  first  steamboat  tied 
lip  at  the  levee ; and  in  1829,  the  “ keel- 
boat,”  once  the  only  means  of  reaching 
the  city  by  the  river,  disappeared  for- 
ever. 

By  a vote  of  the  people  in  the  summer 
of  1870,  the  neighboring  city  of  Caron- 
delet  became  incorporated  with  St.  Louis. 
It  was  formerly  a French  village,  and 
went  by  the  name  of  Vide  Poche  (empty 
pocket).  It  is  now  the  centre  of  a great 
iron  interest,  and  has  numerous  furnaces 
and  mills.  The  city  of  St.  Louis  has  liter- 
ally grown  around  and  absorbed  it.  The 
description  of  the  inhabitants  of  Caron- 
delet,  in  1803,  as  given  by  Monsignor 
Perrin  du  Lac — a French  traveller — is 
very  striking.  In  his  account  of  his  trav- 
els, published  in  Marseilles  after  his  return 
to  France,  he  says  : “ They  differ  from  the 
neighboring  savages  in  nothing  but  their 
sour  toutsP  At  this  time  according  to 
the  same  traveller,  St.  Ferdinand,  which 
is  still  a village,  10  or  12  miles  from  St. 
Louis,  was  the  largest  and  most  prosper- 
ous town  in  Upper  Louisiana. 

The  ‘‘  Philadelphia  system  ” of  number- 
ing the  houses  has  been  adopted  here,  all 
streets  running  parallel  to  the  river  being 
numbered  north  and  south  from  Market 
Street ; while  on  all  streets  running  west 
from  the  river  the  numbering  commences 
at  the  wharf.  One  hundred  numbers  are 
allowed  to  each  block,  the  odd  ones 
being  on  the  north  and  west  sides  of  the 
streets,  and  the  even  ones  on  the  south 
and  east.  To  illustrate  the  convenience  of 


the  system  we  will  suppose  a person 
wishes  to  find  513  Pine  Street,  which  is  a 
street  running  west  from  the  levee ; he 
v/ill  be  compelled  to  ask  no  questions, 
but  will  at  once  understand  that  it  is  the 
seventh  number  from  the  corner  of  Fifth 
Street,  on  the  north  side  of  Pine.  Front 
Street,  which  is  100  feet  wide,  extends 
along  the  levee,  and  is  built  up  with  mas- 
sive stone  warehouses,  which  present  an 
imposing  appearance  from  the  river, 
upon  which  they  front.  This  street,  with 
Main  and  Second,  both  parallel  to  it,  is 
the  location  of  the  principal  wholesale 
houses.  Fourth  Street  is  the  fashionable 
promenade,  and  contains  the  leading  retail 
stores.  Grand  Avenue  is  12  miles  long, 
running  parallel  with  the  river,  and  form- 
ing a grand  broad-way  from  the  north  to 
the  south  end  of  the  city,  and  is  destined 
in  the  future,  with  its  fair-grounds,  its 
great  parks,  cathedrals,  churches,  water- 
works, and  private  residences,  to  be  the 
boulevard  of  the  Western  Continent,  al- 
though at  present  it  but  gives  the  promise 
of  what  is  to  be.  Washington  Avenue, 
one  of  the  widest  and  finest  in  the  city, 
runs  at  right  angles  to  those  previously 
mentioned  as  descending  to  the  river.  It  is 
at  the  foot  of  this  avenue  that  the  great 
railroad  bridge,  to  be  described  hereaftei, 
is  located. 

HOTELS,  EESTAIJHANTS,  AND  CLUBS. 

Hotels. — The  Southern^  which  is  on  the 
square  bounded  by  Walnut,  Fourth,  Fifth, 
and  Elm  Streets,  will  attract  every  stranger 
in  that  quarter  by  the  elegance  of  its  ex- 
terior. It  is  of  enormous  size,  being  270 
feet  long  on  Walnut  Street,  and  113  feet 
on  Fourth  and  Fifth  Streets.  The  foun- 
dations were  laid  in  1858,  and  the  work 
completed  in  1862.  It  is  built  of  Athens 
stone,  closely  resembling  marble,  in  the 
Anglo-Italian  style,  from  designs  by 
George  J.  Barnett,  and  is  six  stories  high. 
The  gentlemen’s  dining-room,  ladies’  or- 
dinary and  grand  parlor,  are  magnificent 
apartments.  The  Southern  Hotel  is  the 
finest  in  the  Mississippi  Yalley. 

The  Planier^s  is  a very  large  and  fine 
hotel,  and  occupies  the  entire  square  on 
Fourth  Street  between  Pine  and  Chestnut. 
It  has  been  a favorite  house  for  many 
years. 

The  Barnum  Hotel  is  a large  and  well- 
47 


St.  Louis.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Louis. 


built  brick  house,  on  the  corner  of  Wal- 
nut and  Second  Streets.  It  is  near  the 
river,  and  is  well  kept. 

The  Laclede  Hotel  occupies  a good  lo- 
cality on  the  corner  of  Fifth  and  Chestnut 
Streets.  It  is  a new  building,  is  of  easy 
access,  and  is  a good  house. 

The  Everett  House^  Olive  Street^  St. 
Nicholas^  and  Broadway  Hotels^  are  all 
well  known  and  reputable  hotels. 

Restaurants.  — .French’’ s Restaurant 
and  ladies’  dining-hall,  on  the  northwest 
corner  of  Fifth  and  Fine  Streets,  or  No. 
201  North  Fifth  Street,  is  a fine  three- 
story  brick  building,  with  large  dining- 
hall,  and  is  the  most  popular  place  of  the 
kind  in  the  city.  Other  first-class  restau- 
rants are : 

SincleFs  BeeFs^  No.  910  Olive 
Street. 

Louis  C.  Garne^  southwest  corner  of 
Ninth  and  Olive  Streets. 

Cafferetta^  No.  101  North  Twelfth 
Street. 

Lavielle,  Warner  & Co.’s  restaurant,  in 
connection  with  the  Southern  Hotels  No. 
10'7  South  Fourth  Street. 

Lamond  Pezotte^  No.  200  North  Fifth 
Street. 

Nicholas  Cantine.^  No.  408  Washington 
Avenue. 

Hotel-  Garni  Restaurant.^  northeast  cor- 
ner of  Fourth  and  Elm  Streets. 

Clubs. — Germania  Club.,  on  the  south- 
west corner  of  Eighth  and  Gratiot  Streets, 
has  a fine  three-story  brick  building,  with 
first-class  restaurant,  billiard-rooms,  and 
rooms  for  other  games,  also  a fine  ball- 
room. 

There  are  other  club-houses  of  less 
note. 

CONYEYANOES. 

The  street-car  system  of  St.  Louis  is 
very  complete,  and  affords  easy  and  ex- 
peditious communication  with  all  parts 
of  the  city.  The  principal  starting-points 
arc  : Washington  Avenue  and  Fourth 
Street,  three  lines ; Fourth  and  Morgan 
Streets,  three  lines ; Franklin  Avenue 
and  Fourth  Street,  one  line ; Oliver  and 
Fourth  Streets,  one  line ; Fourth  and 
Market  Streets,  one  dine  ; Fifth  and  Olive, 
one  line  ; Locust  and  Fourth  Streets,  one 
line. 

Hacks. — The  rates  of  fare  for  the  con- 
48 


veyance  of  passengers  are  established  by 
ordinance,  a copy  of  which  is  posted  iu 
every  hackney  carriage. 

EEREIES. 

Ferry  accommodations  are  ample  and 
the  boats  are  of  easy  access  fVom  any  of 
the  hotels. 

BEIDGES. 

As  yet  there  are  no  bridges,  but,  as  the 
great  bridge  over  the  Mississippi  is  now 
(18'73)  so  near  completion,  we  give  the 
following  description  of  it : 

The  investigations  of  years  in  regard 
to  the  undercurrent  of  the  Mississippi 
have  shown  that  no  river  in  the  world 
changes  its  sand-bed  so  rapidly  and  to 
such  an  extent;  and  more  particularly 
the  soundings  that  were  made  near  St. 
Louis  showed  that  at  times,  when  the 
river  overflows,  its  sand-layers  may  be 
carried  away  to  the  depth  of  40  feet, 
and,  under  extraordinary  circumstances, 
scoured  down  to  the  very  rock  itself. 
Thus  was  demonstrated  the  necessity  of 
laying  the  basis  of  the  piers  upon  the 
rock  itself,  which  under  one  pier  is  90 
feet,  under  the  other  120  feet  under  the 
ordinary  high-water  line.  Inasmuch,  on 
the  other  hand,  as  the  law  of  Congress, 
made  in  the  interest  of  navigation,  pre- 
scribes that  the  height  of  the  arches  shall 
be  50  feet  above  the  city  directrix,  or 
ordinary  high-water  line,  of  the  river,  it 
results  that  the  entire  height  of  the  piers 
must  reach  165  and  194  feet  respec- 
tively. 

The  system  by  which  the  base  was  laid 
upon  the  rock  was  that  of  sinking.  By 
means  of  colossal  iron  caissons  (open 
below  and  resting  upon  the  sand  itself), 
which,  with  the  increasing  weight  of  the 
pillars  built  on  top  of  them,  as  the  sand 
under  them  was  removed  to  the  upper 
world,  sank  deeper  and  deeper,  this  low- 
ering was  effected.  In  order,  however, 
to  render  the  caissons  capable  of  re- 
sistance, the  atmosphere,  by  means  of 
enormous  air-pumps,  was  compressed  in 
them  in  such  a manner  that  their  power 
of  resistance  could  be  increased  to  meet 
any  exigency.  When  the  caisson  or  air- 
chamber,  as  it  is  called  with  propriety, 
struck  upon  the  rock  (that  is,  when 
the  sand-pumps  working  it  had  removed 


St.  Louis.] 


NSW  YOEK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  BOUTS  YII. 


[St.  Louis. 


the  gigantic  layers  of  sand  through 
which  it  had  to  penetrate,  and  when  the 
pier  that  rests  on  the  caisson  was  sepa- 
rated only  by  the  air-chamber  from  the 
rock),  then  it  (the  caisson)  was  filled 
with  concrete,  which  completed  the  in- 
dissoluble connection  between  pier  and 
rock.  When  the  last  particle  of  com- 
pressed air  in  the  air-chamber  had  given 
place  to  this  indestructible  compound  of 
cement  and  stone,  all  that  remained  to 
be  done  was  to  fill  up  in  a similar  man- 
ner the  vertical  shafts  which  communi- 
cated between  the  air-chamber  and  the 
upper  world,  and  the  whole  structure  of 
the  pier,  in  solid  compactness  incorpora- 
ted with  the  rock  far  below,  stood  aloft, 
ready  to  receive  the  superstructure. 

At  present  both  the  piers  are  finished. 
It  is  laid  down  in  the  plan  that  the  por- 
tion of  the  piers  above  water,  and  exposed 
to  the  action  of  the  air,  shall  be  built  of 
the  strongest  granite,  while  the  parts 
extending  from  the  rock  to  a certain 
point  under  the  lowest  water  shall  be 
built  from  limestone  blocks  from  Grafton 
quarry,  in  Illinois.  Their  total  height 
will  then  be  194  and  165  feet,  respec- 
tively— the  east  pier  being  the  highest, 
because  the  rock  on  the  Illinois  side  of 
the  river  lies  deeper  than  it  does  on  the 
Missouri  side.  The  hexagonal  foundation 
of  the  piers  is  82  feet  in  length,  their 
weight  amounts  to  from  28,000  to  33,000 
tons.  No  less  solid  and  massive  is  the 
construction  of  the  abutments.  In  their 
case,  likewise,  they  had  to  go  down  to 
the  rocks.  Upon  the  Missouri  side  of  the 
river  this  presented  little  difficulty,  which, 
however,  was  made  up  for  on  the  Illi- 
nois side,  on  account  of  the  nature  of  the 
American  Bottom. 

These  four  piers  support  the  struct- 
ure, which  now  approaches  its  termina- 
tion with  rapid  strides.  Upon  the  masses 
thereof,  which  are  put  together  to  last 
for  an  eternity,  the  bridge  itself  will  rest. 
They  will  carry  three  arches,  which  will 
measure — those  extending  from  the  abut- 
ments to  the  piers  500  feet  each,  and  the 
span  of  the  principal  arch  between  the 
two  piers  520  feet.  The  possibility  of 
erecting  such  long  spans,  considering  the 
enormous  weight  which  they  will  have  to 
bear,  was  at  first  strongly  doubted,  and 
still  more  strongly  contested.  Cast-steel 
3 


is  selected  as  the  material  of  these  arches. 
Each  of  them  will  be  double,  that  is  to 
say,  will  consist  of  two  concentric  arches 
12  feet  apart,  and  joined  together  by  a 
network  of  the  most  massive  steel  braces. 
Such  double  arches  will  be  stretched  four 
in  each  span,  running  parallel  with  each 
other  from  pier  to  pier.  Upon  their  iron 
necks  will  be  laid  the  real  bridge  in  two 
stories.  The  lower  of  these  stories  is  in- 
tended for  the  railways ; the  upper  be- 
longs to  vehicles  and  foot-passengers. 
Being  50  feet  wide,  both  will  afford  space 
enough  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  the 
liveliest  traffic.  Meanwhile,  underneath, 
the  largest  steamers,  even  when  the  water 
is  at  its  highest,  may  dash  along ; and 
while  over  them  the  East  and  West  ex- 
change their  riches,  they  may,  unim- 
peded, perform  the  exchange  between 
the  North  and  the  South.  St.  Louis, 
however,  will  not  only  have  the  boldest 
arch  bridge  in  the  world,  but  it  will  also 
have  the  first  structure  of  the  kind  built 
of  steel. 

The  street  leading  directly  to  the  bridge 
— ^Washington  Avenue — is  one  of  the 
broadest  and  finest  in  St.  Louis.  Like 
the  whole  of  the  St.  Louis  shore,  it  slopes 
rapidly  when  it  approaches  the  river.  It 
will  be  sufficient,  therefore^  to  prolong 
the  bridge,  which  rises  about  50  feet 
above  the  shore,  a comparatively  short 
distance — three  blocks — 1,049  feet  into 
the  city,  in  order  that  its  level  may  equal 
that  of  Washington  Avenue.  A viaduct 
of  five  arches,  of  27  feet  span  each, 
under  which  the  traffic  of  the  cross-streets 
below  may  be  carried  on  unobstructedly, 
will  form  the  continuation  of  the  bridge, 
and  of  course  will  be  of  the  same  height 
and  breadth.  At  the  end  of  it  the  high 
level  road  will  pass  into  Washington 
Avenue,  which  still  continues  to  rise, 
whereas  the  low  level  road,  with  its  rail 
ways,  will  run  into  a tunnel,  4,800  feet  in 
length,  which  passes  under  a large  por- 
tion of  the  city,  and  terminates  at  the 
spot  where  the  great  St.  Louis  Central 
Kailroad  Depot  will  be  erected — where 
at  present  the  Pacific  Kailroad  crosses 
Eleventh  Street.  The  tunnel  will  be  15 
feet  wide  and  17  feet  high.  Dikes  and 
trestles,  branching  off,  according  to  the 
convenience  of  the  different  railroad 
companies,  to  north,  south,  or  cast,  will 
49 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [St.  Louis. 


St.  Louis.] 

complete  the  connection  with  the  bridge. 
The  upper  carriage-way  will  be  carried 
out  upon  solid  constructions  as  far  as 
Fourth  Street  in  East  St.  Louis,  from 
which  point  the  Missouri  traffic  will  sep- 
arate in  all  directions. 

It  is  expected  that  the  bridge  will  be 
completed  by  the  end  of  the  present  year. 
The  cost  will  be  between  $4,500,000  and 
$5,000,000. 

PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT. 

De  Bar's  Opera-House^  on  Pine  Street, 
between  Third  and  Fourth,  is  the  leading 
theatre. 

The  Olympic  Theatre^  on  Fifth,  between 
Walnut  and  Elm  Streets,  is  a first-class 
place. 

The  Apollo  Gardens  is  a German  the- 
atre, on  the  southeast  corner  of  Fourth 
and  Poplar  Streets. 

The  Varieties  Theatre^  on  Market 
Street,  between  Fifth  and  Sixth  Streets, 
is  a favorite  resort  for  gentlemen. 

CHUECHES. 

The  first  church  ever  established  in  St. 
Louis  was  a log-building,  occupying  the 
spot  where  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral 
now  stands.  It  was,  of  course,  a Roman 
Catholic  church.  The  first  recorded 
church  history  is  that  in  1766,  two 
years  after  thie  first  settlement.  Father 
Meurin  administered  the  sacrament  of 
baptism  in  a tent.  The  first  Protestant 
church  established  here  was  the  Presby- 
terian, organized  in  April,  1816.  The  first 
Episcopal  service  was  held  in  1819.  The 
following  are  the  churches  most  attractive 
to  strangers : 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral^  on  Wal- 
nut Street,  between  Second  and  Third, 
is  an  elegant  edifice,  58  feet  in  height, 
with  a front  of  polished  freestone.  It 
is  136  feet  long,  is  ornamented  by  a 
Doric  portico,  and  possesses  a fine  chime 
of  bells,  the  largest  of  which  weighs  2,600 
pounds. 

The  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitarian), 
at  the  corner  of  Olive  and  Ninth  Streets, 
is  a splendid  Gothic  edifice. 

St.  George's  Church  (Episcopal),  cor- 
ner of  Locust  and  Seventh  Streets,  is  an 
elegant  building. 

First  Presbyterian  Churchy  situated 
on  the  northwest  corner  of  Fourteenth 
60 


Street  and  Lucas  Place,  is  a costly 
brick  edifice. 

The  Second  Presbyterian  Churchy  on 
Seventeenth  Street  and  Lucas  Place,  is  a 
fine  stone  building. 

The  Baptist  Church.^  on  the  southwest 
corner  of  Sixth  and  Locust  Streets,  is  a 
brick  structure  of  handsome  design. 

The  following  are  also  fine  buildings  : 

The  Union  Methodist  Churchy  corner  of 
Eleventh  and  Locust  Streets. 

The  Lutheran  Churchy  corner  of  Eighth 
and  Walnut  Streets. 

The  Co7igregational  Churchy  on  Locust 
Street,  between  Tenth  and  Eleventh 
Streets. 

The  Presbyterian  Churches^  corner  of 
Eleventh  and  Pine  Streets,  and  corner  of 
Sixteenth  and  Walnut  Streets. 

In  the  southern,  western,  and  northern 
parts  of  the  city,  there  are  also  many 
fine  churches. 

The  Jewish  Temple.,  corner  of  Sixteenth 
and  Pine  Streets,  is  one  of  the  finest 
ecclesiastical  structures  in  the  city. 

PAEKS  AND  PUBLIC  SQUAEES. 

Lafayette  Park  is  in  the  southern  por- 
tion of  the  city,  readily  reached  by  the 
Fourth  Street  and  Chouteau  Avenue  cars. 
It  originally  embraced  a whole  block  of 
the  City  Commons — 40  acres — but  the 
four  streets,  90  feet  wide,  by  which  the 
park  is  surrounded,  have  reduced  its  size 
to  an  area  of  28  acres.  The  trees  in  this 
park  have  already  grown  to  a consider- 
able size.  Shrubs  and  flowers,  distributed 
in  great  abundance  between  the  groves 
of  higher  shade-trees,  give  to  the  park  a 
very  lively  appearance. 

Hyde  Park  is  situated  on  the  summit 
of  the  first  hill  west  of  the  Bellefontaine 
Road,  on  Salisbury  Street,  and  can  be 
reached  by  cars  from  Fourth  and  Locust 
Streets,  or  Fourth  Street  and  Washington 
Avenue,  or  by  the  Fifth  Street  line. 
This  park  covers  an  area  of  four  city 
blocks,  and  is  handsomely  enclosed  with 
a substantial  stone  and  iron  fence,  which  is 
bordered  by  double  rows  of  shade-trees. 
Nature  has  done  more  than,  art  toward 
beautifying  the  grounds.  The  stately 
oaks  furnish  a shady  retreat  where  hun- 
dreds of  children  and  their  teachers  or 
parents  meet,  almost  daily,  during  “ pic- 
nic ” season.  Three  lines  of  street-cars. 


St.  Louis.]  NEW  YOEK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII. 


[St  Louis. 


all  terminating  on  Salisbury  Street,  at 
certain  times  of  the  year  unload  un- 
counted numbers  of  visitors  to  this  park. 
It  is  the  people’s  garden  of  North  St. 
Louis. 

In  the  centre  of  the  city  three  com- 
paratively small  parks  are  laid  out,  nearly 
all  at  the  same  distance  from  the  river, 
on  Market,  Olive,  and  Carr  Streets.  They 
are : 

Washington  Square^  on  Market  and 
Eleventh  Streets. 

Missouri  Park^  on  Olive  and  Thir- 
teenth Streets,  bordered  by  the  two 
largest  and  prettiest  churches  of  the  city 
and  opening  on  Lucas  Place  and  Locust 
Street. 

Carr  Square^  on  Sixteenth  Street. 

Further  out  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
town  are  Clinton^  Jackson^  and  Monroe 
Places^  on  Jefferson,  North  Market  and 
Warren  Streets.  The  two  buildings  of  the 
Webster  School  stand  on  Clinton  Place. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  town  are 
Laclede  and  Gravois  Parks. 

The  park  being  laid  out  in  St.  Louis 
Place^  near  the  new  reservoir,  between 
Sixteenth  and  Seventeenth  Streets,  is  an 
immense  parallelogram  of  2,300  feet  in 
width.  It  will  be  crossed  in  either  direc- 
tion by  a wide  macadamized  street,  and 
bordered  on  either  side  by  two  alleys  of 
shade-trees,  like  the  celebrated  “ Lin- 
den ” in  Berlin. 

St.  Louis  Park^  lately  projected,  is 
situated  about  five  miles  a little  south  of 
west  of  the  Court-House,  and  is  to  con- 
tain 3,000  acres  of  land. 

The  Missouri  Park  of  Fruits^  situated 
20  miles  out  on  the  Pacific  Railroad,  is  a 
beautiful  place,  designed,  when  completed, 
to  contain  several  thousand  acres. 

Though  not  strictly  coming  within  the 
term  park,  the  Fair- Grounds  of  the  St. 
Louis  Agricultural  and  Mechanical  As- 
sociation  are  practically  such.  The 
grounds,  which  were  first  occupied  in 
1856,  embraced  50  acres,  which  at  the 
time  of  purchase  were  a natural  forest, 
and  have  been  wonderfully  improved  by 
the  addition  of  hundreds  of  choice  trees 
and  plants,  the  laying  out  of  walks  and 
drives,  the  erection  of  beautiful  and 
convenient  buildings  for  all  fair-purposes, 
and  the  introduction  of  artificial  ponds, 
mounds,  etc. 


“ Fair  week  ” is  the  gala  season,  not 
only  for  St.  Louis,  but  for  the  people 
within  a radius  of  hundreds  of  miles. 
Railroads  and  steamboats  bring  persons 
at  half  fare,  and  the  city  is  a vast  swarm 
of  exhibitors  and  sight-seers  from  all  the 
country  around.  During  some  days  there 
have  been  present  at  the  Fair-Grounds 

80.000  persons  within  the  enclosure  at 
one  time.  Every  year  the  attraction  is 
made  greater  by  the  more  liberal  pre- 
miums offered,  and  the  greater  variety  of 
articles  included  in  the  competition.  This 
fair  is  open  to  the  whole  Mississippi  V al- 
ley. 

The  Fair-Grounds  at  present  embrace 
85  acres,  bounded  by  Grand  Avenue, 
Kossuth  Avenue,  Bryan  Avenue,  and  St. 
Charles  plank-road,  and  can  be  reached 
by  the  cars  on  Franklin  Avenue,  on  Fifth 
Street,  from  the  corner  of  Washington 
Avenue  and  Fourth,  or  from  Locust  and 
Fourth  Streets. 

The  grounds  are  now  well  set  in  blue 
grass  and  shaded  with  beautiful  grove 
of  forest-trees,  and  through  them  are 
winding  avenues,  handsomely  bordered 
with  evergreens  and  trees  of  all  other 
kinds,  while  an  aqueduct  from  the  city 
reservoir  keeps  seven  ornamental  foun- 
tains constantly  in  play,  and  furnishes  an 
ample  supply  of  water  to  every  part  of 
the  grounds.  Around  the  whole  are  large 
and  commodious  stalls  for  the  accom- 
modation of  the  stock,  and  convenient 
thereto  is  a grand  mile  drive,  40  feet 
wide,  for  the  exercise  and  speeding  of 
horses. 

Buildings  have  been  erected  of  such 
size  a-nd  shape  as  not  only  to  furnish 
ample  room  for  the  accommodation  of 
visitors  and  exhibitors,  but  greatly  to 
beautify  the  grounds. 

The  Amphitheatre.,  by  far  the  largest 
in  the  United  States,  having  an  inside  cir- 
cumference of  one  quarter  of  a mile 
in  extent,  will  seat  comfortably  40,000 
people.  Around  these  seats  (one  above 
them  and  the  other  below)  are  two 
promenades,  each  of  which  will  hold 

25.000  persons.  Thus  it  will  be  seen 
that  this  immense  structure  will  shelter 
as  many  as  90,000  people.  Under  the  Am- 
phitheatre are  100  refreshment  booths. 

In  the  centre  of  this  building  is  the 
Pagoda.,  around  which  the  fine  stock  is 
51 


u.  OF  IWk  LIB. 


St.  Louis.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Louis. 


exhibited.  It  has  three  stories,  is  90  feet 
high,  and  has  a centre  flag-pole  190  feet 
in  height. 

The  Floral^  Mechanical^  Fine  Art^  and 
Textile  Fabric  Halls^  are  all  well  adapted 
to  exhibition  purposes. 

The  Gallinarium^  30  feet  in  diameter, 
and  three  stories  high,  is  made  entirely  of 
wire.  It  contains  90  apartments,  with 
all  the  conveniences  for  the  exhibition 
and  keeping  of  poultry. 

The  Machine-Shop  is  300  feet  long, 
with  shafting  the  full  length,  and  fur- 
nished with  a steam-engine  for  testing  all 
kinds  of  machinery. 

The  Cottage  contains  four  saloons, 
which  are  well  furnished  for  the  comfort 
and  convenience  of  ladies. 

HhQ  Agricultural  Department  IS  161  feet 
long  and  50  feet  wide. 

The  Music  Hall^  a building  80  feet  long 
and  40  feet  wide,  is  erected  exclusively 
for  the  display  of  musical  instruments. 

The  grounds  are  always  open,  and  ex- 
cept during  the  Fair  week  the  price  of 
admission  is  only  10  cents. 

The  Missouri  Botanical  Gardens^  owned 
by  Mr.  Henry  Shaw,  are  situated  about 
five  miles  southwest  from  the  Court- 
House,  on  Tower  Grove  Avenue  (entrance 
at  the  western  terminus  of  Floral  Avenue), 
which  begins  at  Grand  Avenue  and  ex- 
tends west  to  Tower  Grove  Avenue.  On 
this  fine,  elevated  site,  overlooking  the 
city  from  the  west,  and  a wide  range  of 
the  beautiful  surrounding  country,  will 
be  found  probably  the  finest  public  gar- 
dens in  the  United  States. 

The  grounds  are’  divided  into  three  sec- 
tions, as  follows  : 

The  Herbaceous  and  Flow&r  Garden^ 
embracing  10  acres,  contains  almost  every 
flower  that  can  be  grown  in  this  latitude, 
and  in  it  are  several  plant-houses,  in 
which  are  thousands  of  exotic  and  trop- 
ical plants. 

In  the  Fruiticetum^  or  Experimental 
Fruit  Garden,  comprising  six  acres,  are 
cultivated  all  the  various  kinds  of  fruit 
which  grow  in  the  open  air  in  this  climate, 
including  40  kinds  of  grapes,  20  of  straw- 
berries, and  all  other  kinds  and  varieties. 

The  Arboretum  is  very  extensive,  com- 
prising 25  acres,  and  embracing  the  dif- 
ferent varieties  of  ornamental  and  for- 
est trees  that  will  grovr  in  this  climate. 

52 


In  this  section  is  the  Pinetum^  contain- 
ing coniferous  trees — of  pines  alone  29 
species ; the  Quercetum^  embracing  varie- 
ties of  the  oak ; and  the  Salicetum^  em- 
bracing about  100  species  of  the  willow. 

The  Labyrinth^  or  Maze,  is  an  intricate, 
puzzling,  hedge-bordered  pathway,  lead- 
ing to  the  summer-house  in  the  centre. 
The  hedges  embrace  all  varieties,  and  are 
kept  clipped  and  in  good  order. 

The  private  garden,  where  the  graperies 
are  situated,  is  in  the  rear  of  the  house. 

The  neat  yet  substantial  fire-proof 
building,  east  of  Mr.  Shaw’s  residence,  is 
devoted  to  the  Museum,  Herbarium, 
and  Botanical  Library,  on  the  main  floor, 
the  Reading  and  Lecture  Room  being  in 
the  basement. 

The  improvements  were  commenced 
by  Mr.  Henry  Shaw  about  1857,  with  a 
design  to  establish  an  institution  for  the 
promotion  of  the  sciences  of  Botany  and 
Horticulture. 

Visitors  are  admitted  daily,  from  sun- 
rise to  sunset,  except  on  Sundays  and 
holidays  ; then  after  2 p.  m. 

To  insure  the  perpetual  maintenance 
of  the  Garden,  the  proprietor  has  made  an 
endowment  of  about  400  acres  of  valuable 
lands  immediately  surrounding  it,  which, 
together  with  the  Garden,  are  to  be  left 
in  the  charge  of  trustees. 

The  Lower  Grade  Parh^  situated  near 
the  Botanical  Garden,  is  the  newly-pro- 
jected Park  of  Tower  Grove,  consisting 
of  200  acres.  It  is  a parallelogram, 
being  five  times  longer  than  broad.  Mr. 
Henry  Shaw,  the  projector  and  donor  to 
the  city  of  the  Garden  and  the  Park,  is 
of  English  birth,  and  came  to  St.  Louis 
more  than  fifty  years  ago.  During  the 
time  he  was  in  business  he  was  a prosper- 
ous hardware  merchant ; of  late  years  he 
has  devoted  his  time  exclusively  to  the 
Garden  and  to  his  private  alfairs. 

PUBLIO  AKD  PEOMINENT  BUILDINGS, 

AND  PLACES  NOT  OTIIEBWISE  CLASSI- 
FIED. 

MUNICIPAL. 

The  Court-House^  occupying  the  square 
bounded  by  Fourth,  Fifth,  Chestnut,  and 
Market  Streets,  is  one  of  the  finest  edi- 
fices of  its  kind  in  the  United  States, 
having  cost  over  a million  and  a quarter 


St.  Louis.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII. 


[St.  Louis. 


of  dollars.  It  is  built  of  Genevieve  lime- 
stone, and  the  fronts  are  adorned  with 
beautiful  porticos,  while  the  dome,  which 
is  of  fine  proportions,  greatly  resembles 
that  on  the  Capitol  at  Washington.  It  is 
unfortunate,  however,  that,  owing  to  de- 
fects in  lighting,  the  rotunda  and  general- 
ly the  interior  of  the  building  present  a 
dark  and  gloomy  appearance. 

This  is  the  recognized  centre  of  the 
city ; from  this  point  all  distances  are 
measured,  and  here  converge  the  wires 
of  the  fire-alarm  telegraph.  Erom  the 
top  of  this  building  is  to  be  had  the  best 
viev7  of  the  city. 

The  Temple  of  Justice^  Clarke  Avenue, 
between  Eleventh  and  Twelfth  Streets, 
occupying  an  entire  block,  is  an  elegant 
structure.  In  this  building  are  the  jail, 
and  the  city  and  county  courts  and  of- 
fices. 

The  Union  Market  occupies  the  square 
bounded  by  Eifth,  Sixth,  Greene,  and 
Morgan  Streets. 

NATIONAL. 

The  Custom-House^  at  the  southeast 
corner  of  Third  and  Olive  Streets,  is  a 
spacious,  substantial  edifice  of  Missouri 
marble.  It  occupies  the  site  of  one  of 
the  first  theatres  erected  in  St.  Louis, 
and  is  built  upon  piles  driven  upward  of 
20  feet  into  the  ground.  It  was  erected 
at  a cost  of  $356,000.  Underneath  the 
Post-Office,  which  occupies  the  main 
floor  of  the  building,  is  a vault  which 
extends  throughout  the  basement.  The 
second  and  third  stories  are  used  for 
the  purposes  of  the  customs  and  United 
States  Courts. 

The  Arsenal^  situated  in  the  extreme 
southern  portion  of  the  city,  immediately 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  a beautiful 
spot  where  the  statue  to  General  N.  Lyon 
is  to  be  erected.  It  is  reached  by  the 
Fifth  Street  Railway. 

The  Marine  Hospital  is  situated  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  city. 

EDTICATIOKAL  AND  CHARITABLE. 

The  school  system  of  St.  Louis  is  un- 
usually complete.  The  public  schools 
may  be  classified  as  follows  : 

The  Polytechnic  Building  is  a large, 
five-story  edifice,  at  the  corner  of  Chest- 
nut and  Seventh  Streets. 


On  the  first  floor  are  the  offices  and 
assembly-room  of  the  Board  of  Public 
Schools. 

On  the  second  floor  is  the  Public  School 
Library^  containing  over  24,000  volumes. 
Any  person  may  become  a life-member 
by  the  payment  of  $12.  The  depart- 
ment of  Natural  Science  is  very  full. 

On  the  third  floor  is  the  O' Fallon  Poly- 
technic Institute^  which  is  open  for  five 
months  in  the  year,  and  is  free  to  all  who 
are  qualified  to  avail  themselves  of  its 
advantages,  which  include  the  elemen- 
tary branches  of  a scientific  and  techno- 
logical course. 

The  Intermediate  School  (a  branch  of 
the  High  School),  and  the  rooms  of  the 
Academy  of  Science  and  Historical  Society^ 
are  on  the  same  floor. 

The  Normal  School  is  on  the  fourth 
floor. 

The  High  School^  corner  of  Fifteenth 
and  Olive  Streets,  is  a fine  building, 
erected  in  1855  at  a cost  of  $50,000.  The 
course  is  for  four  years,  and  the  average 
attendance  is  400  pupils.  In  the  third 
floor  is  an  assembly-hall  with  seats  for 
^700  persons. 

The  District  Schools  number  about  40, 
and  those  most  recently  built  (14  or  15 
in  number)  are  all  upon  the  same  plan, 
each  being  three  stories  high,  and  having 
four  rooms  on  a floor,  with  wide  halls  and 
sliding  partitions,  by  which  each  pair  of 
rooms  adjacent  may  be  thrown  into  one. 
By  this  means  abundance  of  light  is 
secured,  and  a careful  watch  over  the 
pupils  is  more  easily  obtained.  Each 
room  is  under  the  charge  of  a single 
teacher,  and  each  building  accommodates 
700  pupils,  the  total  accommodations 
in  the  public  schools  being  for  23,000 
pupils. 

The  University  of  St.  Louis  is  at  the 
corner  of  Pine  and  Sixteenth  Streets. 

The  Medical  Department  of  the  Missouri 
University  is  at  the  corner  of  Eighth  and 
Gratiot  Streets. 

The  Washington  University  is  at  the 
corner  of  Pine  and  Sixteenth  Streets. 

The  Western  Hebrew  College'll  at  1107 
Morgan  Street. 

The  Roman  Catholic  institutions  will 
be  classified  under  a separate  heading. 

The  Mercantile  Library  is  at  the  corner 
of  Eifth  and  Locust  Streets,  the  associa- 
53 


St.  Louis.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St  Louis. 


tion  having  been  organized  in  1846. 
The  Library  Hall  is  a handsome  brick 
building,  which  was  completed  in  1854, 
at  a cost  of  $140,000. 

In  the  third  story  is  a magnificent 
public  hall,  capable  of  seating  1,800  per- 
sons. 

In  the  second  story  are  the  library  and 
reading-room.  The  library  contains  be- 
tween 30,000  and  40,000  volumes,  and  is 
constantly  increasing.  It  also  possesses 
valuable  paintings,  coins,  and  statuary, 
among  which  may  be  mentioned  Miss 
Hosmer’s  life-size  statues  of  Beatrice 
Cenci  and  (Enone  (a  nymph  of  Mount 
Ida) ; a marble  bust  of  Thomas  H.  Benton^ 
by  James  W.  McDonald ; a marble  bust 
of  B,ohert  Burns^  by  Wm.  Brodie,  and  a 
sculptured  slab  of  marble  from  the  in- 
terior wall  of  a palace  in  Nineveh, 

The  reading-room  is  elegantly  fitted  up, 
and  contains  a large  oollection  of  maga- 
zines and  papers  from  all  parts  of  the 
world. 

Both  library  and  reading-room  are  open 
free  to  strangers.  Hours,  from  9 a.  m.  to 
10  P.  M. 

Among  the  numerous  charitable  in- 
stitutions of  St.  Louis  are  the  following  : 

The  City  Hospital^  corner  of  Lafayette 
Avenue  and  Lime  Street,  is  noted  for  the 
extent  and  completeness  of  its  accom- 
modations for  the  sick. 

The  Quarantine  Hospital  is  10  miles 
below  the  city,  and  on  the  river.  The 
hospital-grounds  consist  of  50  acres,  upon 
which  stand  wooden  hospital  buildings 
with  accommodations  for  about  300  pa- 
tients. The  officers’  quarters  are  built  of 
stone,  and  the  grounds  are  well  planned, 
and  are  ornamented  with  shrubbery. 

The  Insane  Asylum  is  near  Shaw’s 
Gardens,  from  which  it  can  be  seen.  It 
is  a splendid  institution,  and  in  its  con- 
struction no  expense  has  been  spared. 
Every  appliance  which  science  or  ex- 
perience can  suggest  as  likely  to  con- 
duce to  the  comfort  and  recovery  of 
the  inmates  is  to  be  found  here.  The 
surroundings  are  delightful. 

KOMAN  CATHOLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

From  the  number  of  Roman  Catholic 
educational  establishments,  churches,  and 
charitable  institutions,  in  St.  Louis,  it  has 
been  designated  the  “ Rome  of  America.” 
54 


It  is  said  that  its  charitable  institutions 
are  as  extensive  as  those  of  any  city  in 
the  United  States,  not  excepting  New 
York,  many  of  them  having  been  founded 
and  fostered  by  Archbishop  Kenrick. 

A stranger,  desiring  more  particular  in- 
formation than  it  is  practicable  to  give 
here,  can  obtain  it  from  any  parish  priest 
in  the  city. 

The  St.  Louis  University^  at  the  corner 
of  Ninth  Street  and  Washington  Avenue, 
is  the  oldest  educational  institution  in 
St.  Louis,  having  been  founded  by  mem- 
bers of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  in  1829. 

The  institution  possesses  a valuable 
museum,  and  very  complete  philosophical 
and  chemical  apparatus. 

The  library  contains  over  25,000  vol- 
umes, among  them  some  of  such  rarity 
and  value  that  no  notice  of  the  university 
would  be  complete  without  a reference 
to  them.  First  among  them  is  a “ Geog- 
raphy of  the  Earth,”  illustrated  with 
maps  and  plates  of  men,  animals,  birds, 
and  scenes,  in  all  the  countries  described  ; 
all  printed  in  various-colored  inks,  true  to 
nature  and  accurately  portrayed.  It  was 
published  by  Bleaux,  at  Amsterdam,  for 
subscribers,  in  eleven  large  folio  volumes, 
in  1662.  The  type  is  clear,  the  paper  fine, 
yet  very  strong;  the  maps,  even  of 
America,  very  accurate,  and  especially 
of  those  portions  where  the  Jesuits  had 
their  most  extensive  missions.  The  color- 
ing seems  as  fresh  and  bright  as  if  done 
last  year,  instead  of  over  two  hundred 
years  ago.  Among  other  works  particu- 
larly worthy  of  notice  are  a theological 
dictionary  entitled  Summa  Angelica,” 
by  Angelas  Clavasis,  printed  July  4, 
1490;  also  another  work  printed  in 
1499.  Here  are  the  sermons  and  hom- 
ilies of  Augustine  printed  in  1521  ; also 
Cicero’s  Offices  printed  in  1539,  and 
an  “Epitome  of  Antiquity,”  printed  in 
1533,  most  beautifully  illustrated  with 
medallions ; there  are  also  several  edi- 
tions of  the  Bible,  with  beautiful  marginal 
and  other  illustrations,  in  various-colored 
inks,  printed  in  1556,  and  down  to  1628. 

The  College  Villa^  situated  near  the 
city,  is  large  and  beautiful,  with  ample 
buildings,  spacious  groves,  and  recrea- 
tion-grounds. 

A medical  department  is  connected 
with  the  university. 


St.  Louis,] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VII. 


[St.  Louis. 


The  College  of  the  Christian  Brothers 
is  at  the  corner  of  Eighth  and  Gratiot 
Streets.  It  was  established  in  1849,  and 
ill  1852  was  empowered  by  the  State 
Legislature  to  confer  degrees  and  aca- 
demic honors.  The  average  number  of 
students  is  from  370  to  400  in  constant 
attendance. 

81.  Patridc’s  Academy^  corner  of  Cass 
Avenue  and  Seventh  Street,  is  a branch 
of  the  college  of  which  it  is  merely  a pre- 
paratory department. 

There  are  seven  other  schools  in  St. 
Louis,  and  one  in  Carondelet  taught  by 
the  Christian  Brothers,  who  in  1870  had 
under  their  charge  2,137  pupils. 

There  are  nineteen  parish  schools,  with 
an  aggregate  attendance  of  6,925  chil- 
dren. 

The  following  convents  have  schools 
for  female  pupils  connected  with  them  : 

Convent  and  Academy  of  the  Sacred 
Heart.,  corner  of  Fifth  and  Labadie  Streets; 
Convent  and  Academy  of  the  Visitation., 
corner  of  Twenty-second  Street  and  Cass 
Avenue  ; Ursuline  Convent  and  Academy., 
Second  Street,  Carondelet,  and  Ann 
Avenues  ; Sisters  of  St.  Joseph  Academy 
and  Convent.,  at  Carondelet ; and  St.  Vin- 
cent's Ladies'  School^  corner  of  Tenth  and 
St.  Charles  Streets. 

The  Convent  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy., 
corner  of  Twenty-third  and  Morgan  Sts., 
constantly  supports  on  an  average  45 
young  girls,  who  are  here  trained  to  use- 
ful employments.  There  are  also  schools 
attached  to  this  convent  which  accom- 
modate over  400  pupils. 

The  Convent  of  the  Good  Shepherd.,  for 
the  reformation  of  fallen  women,  is  at  the 
corner  of  Chestnut  and  Seventh  Streets. 

The  Convent  of  the  Little  Sisters  of  the 
Poor  supports  about  70  helpless  old 
people.  It  is  at  the  corner  of  Eighteenth 
and  Morgan  Streets,  and  is  dependent 
upon  voluntary  contributions. 

The  following  orphan  asylums  are 
under  the  charge  of  the  different  chari- 
table orders  of  the  Church : St.  Bridgets 
Half- Orphan  Asylum.,  also  Deaf  and 
Dumb.,  corner  of  Twenty-sixth  Street  and 
Christy  Avenue ; St.  Vincents  German 
Male  and  Female  Orphan  Asylum.,  Twen- 
tieth Street,  between  Cass  Avenue  and 
O’Fallon  Street ; Male  Orphan  Asylum^ 
corner  of  Fifteenth  Street  and  Clarke 


Avenue  ; St.  Mary's  Female  Orphan  Asy- 
lum, corner  of  Tenth  and  Biddle  Sts, ; 
Mullanphy  Orphan  Asylum  for  Females, 
corner  of  Sixth  and  Labadie  Streets ; 
House  of  the  Angel  Guardian,  corner  of 
Tenth  and  Marion  Streets  ; and  St.  Philo- 
mena's  Orphan  Asylum,  on  Summit  Ave- 
nue. 

The  principal  hospitals,  either  sup- 
ported or  managed  by  the  Roman  Cath- 
olics, are  : St.  Ann's  Widows'  Asylum 
and  Lying-in  Hospital,  corner  of  Tenth 
and  O’Fallon  Streets ; St.  Vincents  In- 
sane Asylum,  corner  of  Decatur  and 
Marion  Streets  ; St.  Louis  Hospital,  corner 
of  Spruce  and  Fourth  Streets,  conducted 
by  Sisters  of  Charity,  and  having  accom- 
modations for  400  patients  ; and  St.  Jo- 
seph's Hospital,  corner  of  Osage  Street  and 
Carondelet  Avenue. 

Attached  to  nearly  all  the  city  churches 
are  Conferences  of  St.  Vincent  de  Paul, 
having  in  the  aggregate  about  1,000 
members.  These  organizations  are  formed 
for  house-to-house  visitation  and  relief 
of  the  sick  and  poor. 

There  is  one  convent  of  cloistered  nuns, 
of  the  Carmelite  order.  It  is  on  Clay 
Farm,  near  Calvary  Cemetery. 

OTHEE  BUILDINGS  AND  PLACES  OF 
INTEEEST. 

The  Merchants'  Exchange,  fronting  on 
Main  and  Commercial  Streets,  between 
Market  and  Walnut  Streets,  is  a fine 
edifice.  It  was  erected  in  1856-  57,  at  a 
cost  of  $75,000.  The  height  on  Main 
Street  is  75  feet,  length  125  feet,  and 
depth  85  feet.  The  main  hall,  or  “ Ex- 
change,” is  a fine  room,  102  by  81  feet. 
The  reading-room  is  on  the  south  side  of 
the  main  hall.  The  best  time  to  visit 
this  building  is  between  ligand  12  o’clock, 
when  the  merchants  are  “ on  ’Change.” 
A permit  from  the  superintendent  is  ne- 
cessary. 

The  New  City  Water-  Works,  completed 
in  1870,  are  upon  a grand  scale.  The 
water  is  taken  from  the  Mississippi  River, 
at  what  is  called  Bissell’s  Point,  close  to 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  city.  It 
first  enters  an  iron  tower,  80  feet  high, 
sunk  to  the  rock,  and  provided  with  gates 
at  different  heights,  so  that  the  water 
may  be  taken  at  any  desired  depth  below 
the  surface.  In  this  tower  are  several 
56 


St.  Louis.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Louis. 


strainers  and  screens  to  free  the  water 
from  foreign  matter  before  entering  the 
pump-well.  From  this  tower  a pipe  of 
5^  feet  interior  diameter,  and  300  feet  in 
length,  conducts  the  water  to  the  pump- 
ing-engines that  are  to  lift  it  into  the 
settling-reservoirs.  These  engines  are 
two  in  number,  and  are  duplicate  engines 
of  the  Cornish-bull  class,  each  of  a 
capacity  to  pump  17,000,000  gallons  in 
twenty-four  hours.  The  foundations  for 
these  engines  are  of  the  most  substantial 
character,  and,  to  provide  for  the  rapidly- 
increasing  demand,  have  been  constructed 
large  enough  to  hold  three  engines.  To 
free  the  water  from  the  sedimentary  mat- 
ter, particularly  at  seasons  of  high  water, 
four  settling-reservoirs,  each  240  by  660 
feet,  and  averaging  in  depth  about  20 
feet,  have  been  constructed  close  to  the 
river-bank.  The  vrater  pumped  by  the 
lov^-service  engines  is  admitted  at  will 
into  either  of  these  four  reservoirs ; 
there  it  is  left  at  perfect  rest  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  during  which  time  about 
nineteen-twentieths  of  the  sedimentary 
matter  falls  to  the  bottom.  During  the 
next  day  the  water  is  drawn  off  by  a 
system  of  gates  so  arranged  as  to  al- 
low the  water  to  discharge  at  all  times 
near  its  surface ; the  last  three  or  four 
feet  of  water  is  not  drawn  off,  but  on  the 
fourth  day  is  allowed  to  run  out  into  the 
river,  taking  with  it  most  of  the  sediment, 
while  the  remainder  is  washed  out  with 
the  aid  of  an  engine,  and  the  reservoir  is 
then  ready  for  a new  supply.  The  water, 
after  leaving  the  settling-reservoirs,  runs 
by  gravity,  through  a covered  conduit 
about  one-half  mile  long,  into  a small 
reservoir  near  the  high-service  engines, 
called  the  dear-water  well,  and  from  it 
through  a short  conduit  to  the  high-ser- 
vice engines. 

These  are  two  in  number.  Each  of 
them  must  be  able,  according  to  con- 
tract, to  raise  16,500,000  gallons  to  a 
height  of  270  feet  within  twenty-four 
hours.  They  pump  through  a force- 
main  five  miles  in  length,  and  of  36  and 
30  inches  diameter,  into  the  storage- 
reservoir  on  Compton  Hill.  To  relieve 
the  engines  and  force-main  from  any 
concussion,  the  stand-pipe  has  a height 
of  242  feet  above  the  ordinary  high- 
water  level  of  the  river.  It  is  about 
56 


one-half  mile  from  the  high-service  en- 
gines. Before  reaching  the  storage-reser- 
voir two  pipes  of  20-inch  diameter  branch 
off  into  the  city  and  connect  it  with  the 
old  system  of  distribution ; while  a third 
feeder  of  the  same  size  starts  from  the 
storage-reservoir  so  as  to  secure  con- 
tinual motion,  and  thereby  prevent  the 
water  from  becoming  foul. 

The  storage-reservoir  covers  about  17 
acres  of  land,  and  is  built  near  the  city 
boundary,  at  the  most  elevated  point 
within  its  limits.  The  elevation  of  its 
water  surface  is  26  feet  above  the  high- 
est street  grade,  and  is  ample  to  supply 
the  upper  story  of  every  house  in  the 
city. 

Masonic  Hall,  comer  of  Market  and 
Seventh  Streets,  is  a splendid  edifice,  and 
a credit  to  the  order. 

Lucas  Place  is  the  fashionable  street. 
It  extends  from  Wright  to  Seventeenth 
Street. 

The  Levee  should  be  visited. 

Bellefoniaine  Cemetery  is  a beautiful 
burial-ground,  situated  about  one  mile 
from  the  river,  on  the  road  of  the  same 
name,  five  miles  from  the  Court-House. 
It  embraces  about  350  acres  of  land, 
is  tastefully  decorated  with  shade-trees 
and  shrubbery,  and  contains  the  remains 
of  most  of  the  old  settlers  and  residents 
of  St.  Louis.  Route  by  Fourth  Street 
and  Broadway  cars  to  the  Toll-gate,  and 
thence  by  stage : through-fare,  20  cents. 

Calvary  Cemetery,  situated  a short  dis- 
tance north  of  Bellefontaine,  is  noted  for 
its  beauty  and  improvements. 

There  are  many  other  handsome  bury- 
ing-grounds,  among  which  are  those  of 
the  Israelites,  Lutherans,  and  other  de- 
nominations. 

YiemiTY. 

Carondelet,  which  might  appropriately 
come  under  the  above  heading,  has  al- 
ready been  mentioned  in  the  general  de- 
scription of  the  city,  with  which  it  is  now 
incorporated.  The  views  here  are  charm- 
ing. 

The  Coal-  Works  at  East  St.  Louis,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and 
at  the  bluffs,  a distance  of  10  or  12  miles, 
will  repay  the  trouble  of  a visit,  if  the 
traveller  wishes  to  learn  how  the  city  is 
supplied  with  coal. 


St,  Louis.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  VIII. 


[Stations. 


The  Mounds^  about  which  the  scientific 
and  the  curious  are  remarkably  interested, 
are  to  be  seen  on  the  American  Bottom, 
about  4 or  5 miles  from  the  city,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  They 
stand  upon  a low  plain,  rising  like  eggs, 
and  are  great  curiosities.  One  of  the 
largest  has  recently  been  dug  away  to 
form  the  approach  to  the  eastern  end  of 
the  great  bridge,  and  by  this  means  it 
has  been  ascertained  that  they  are  the 
monumental  burying-places  of  an  extinct 
race,  though,  from  the  small  number  of 
skeletons  found,  it  is  thought  that  none 
but  the  most  important  persons  were 
buried  in  them. 

Jefferson  Barracks  is  upon  the  Missis- 
sippi, 12  miles  south  of  the  city,  situated 
upon  elevated  ground.  Here  the  Govern- 
ment holds  Ij'ZOO  acres  of  land,  and  here 
are  large  barracks  and  officers’  quarters. 

gnOET  PLEASUEE  EXCUESIONS. 

There  are  a number  of  places  within  a 
short  distance  of  St.  Louis  to  which  very 
agreeable  pleasure-trips  can  be  made ; 
among  them  are  the  following  : 

The  Lead^  Copper^  and  Iron  Mines  of 
Missouri  are  within  a very  short  distance 
of  the  city,  and  will  amply  repay  a visit. 
They  can  be  reached  by  rail  or  by  private 
conveyance.  It  is  advisable  for  the  tourist, 
who  intends  making  the  jaunt,  to  take  the 
advice  of  the  proprietor  or  clerk  of  his 
hotel  as  to  which  mines  to  visit,  and  how 
to  reach  them.  The  same  remark  vrill 
apply  to  trips  to  the 

Sulphur  Springs^  which  are  visited  at 
different  points  along  the  lines  of  rail- 
way diverging  from  St.  Louis. 

Ferry  Springs^  in  Illinois,  a short  dis- 
tance above  St.  Louis,  have  become  very 
popular,  and  are  provided  with  the  ac- 
cessories of  a fashionable  w'atering-place. 

The  Iron  Mountains^  on  the  Iron 
Mountain  Railroad,  are  world-wide  curi- 
osities. 

The  Valley  of  Arcadia  is  adjoining  the 
Iron  Mountains.  It  is  a beautiful  spot, 
rapidly  being  covered  with  highly-culti- 
vated farms  and  handsome  dwellings. 

Caves. — ^Within  a short  distance  of  the 
city,  and  of  easy  access,  are  some  caves, 
which  are  considered  great  curiosities, 
and  are  much  visited. 


Pleasant  trips  may  be  made  to  Kirk- 
viood.,  14  miles  distant,  on  the  Missouri 
Pacific  Railway,  and  to  Columbia^  100 
miles  distant,  upon  the  North  Missouri 
Railway,  it  being  noted  as  the  seat  of  the 
State  University.  Trips  by  steamer  can 
also  be  made  to  various  points  along  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers. 

nOUTE  VIII. 

NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS. 

Via  Route  II.  to  ClmelanJ  and  thence  via 
Cleveland^  Columbus.,  Cincinnati  & Indian- 
apolis., and  Indianapolis  & St.  Louis  Rail- 
ways. {Time.,  48  hrs. — Fare.,  $27.) 

Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati  & 
Indianapolis  Railway  Stations. — Cleve- 
land, 628  miles  from  New  York  ; Grafton 
(junction  of  Toledo  Division  of  Michigan 
Southern  & Lake  Shore  Railway),  653  ; 
Wellington,  664;  Shelby  (connects  vrith 
Lake  Erie  Division  of  Baltimore  & Ohio 
Railway,  formerly  Sandusky,  Mansfield 
& Newark  Railway),  695  ; Crestline  (junc- 
tion of  Columbus  Division  with  Indian- 
apolis Division,  connects  with  Pittsburg, 
Fort  Wayne  & Chicago  Railway),  7'03 ; 
Gallon,  'ZO'? ; Marion  (connects  with  At- 
lantic & Great  Western  Division  of  Erie 
Railway),  728  ; La  Rue,  742 ; Bellefon- 
taine  (connects  with  Cincinnati,  Sandusky 
& Cleveland  Railway),  768;  De  Graff, 
777 ; Sidney  (connects  with  Dayton  & 
Michigan  Railway),  791 ; Yersailles,  809  ; 
Union  (connects  with  Dayton  & Union 
and  Columbus,  Chicago  & Indiana  Central 
Railways),  826;  Winchester,  835 ; Muncie, 
856  ; Anderson  (connects  v/ith  Columbus, 
Chicago  h Indiana  Central  Railway),  874  • 
Pendleton,  882  ; Fortvilie,  889  ; Indian- 
apolis (connects  with  Terre  Haute  & 
Indianapolis,  Indianapolis  & St.  Louis, 
Jeffersonville,  Madison  & Indianapolis, 
and  Indianapolis,  Cincinnati  & Lafayette 
Railways),  910. 

Indianapolis  & St.  Louis  Railway 
Stations. — Indianapolis,  910  miles  from 
New  York  ; Danville,  929  ; Reno,  938 ; 
Greencastle  (connects  with  Louisville, 
New  Albany  & Chicago  Railway),  949  ; 
Carbon,  963  ; Terre  Haute  (connects  v/ith 
Evansville  & Crawfordsville  Railway ),982  ; 
Paris,  1,001  ; Kansas,  1,014  ; Charleston, 
1,027  ; Mattoon  (connects  with  Chicago 


Cleveland.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Charleston. 


Branch  of  Illinois  Central  Railway),  1,038; 
Shelbyville,  1,061 ; Pana  (connects  with 
Northern  Division  Illinois  Central  Rail- 
way, and  Springfield  & Illinois  South- 
Eastern  Railway),  1,077  ; Nokomis,  1,089; 
Hillsboro’,  1,105 ; Litchfield,  1,116  ; 
Bunker  Hill,  1,135;  Bethalto,  1,146; 
Alton  Junction  (connects  with  Alton 
Branch  and  Keokuk  Packet  Line), 
1,150;  Edwardsville  Crossing,  1,153; 
East  St.  Louis,  1,171  ; St.  Louis  (connects 
with  all  railway  and  steamboat  lines), 
1,172. 

ClevelsEiicl,  O.  (628  miles).  {See 
page  17.) 

Cnrafitoii,  O.  (653  miles),  is  a vil- 
lage in  the  southeastern  extremity  of 
Lorain  County,  and  is  the  junction  of  the 
Toledo  Division  of  the  Michigan  Southern 
dc  Lake  Shore  Railway. 

O.  (695  miles),  is  a pleas- 
ant and  prosperous  village,  in  Richland, 
one  of  the  most  fertile  counties  of  the 
State.  The  Lake  Erie  Division  of  the 
Baltimore  <&  Ohio  Railway^  formerly  the 
Sandusky^  Mansfield  <So  Newark  Railway^ 
connects  here. 

Crestline,  O.  (703  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Route  III.  {See  page 
24.) 

€>.  (707  miles),  has  been 
described  in  Route  Y.  {See  page  30.) 

Marloaa,  O.  (728  miles),  has  already 
been  described  in  Route  Y.  {See  page 
30.)  The  Atlantic  & Great  Western  Divi- 
sion of  the  Erie  Railway  connects  here. 

ISellefbutaiaae,  (768  miles), 
is  so  named  from  the  numerous  fine 
springs  in  the  neighborhood.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a rich,  populous,  and  pros- 
perous country,  and  has  a large  and 
rapidly  increasing  trade.  There  are 
several  manufactories  here,  and  also  the 
county  buildings,  this  being  the  capital 
of  Logan  County.  The  Cincinnati^  Cleve- 
land <Ss  Sandusky  Railway  connects  here. 

^id.M.cy,  O.  (791  miles),  a handsome 
village,  the  capital  of  Shelby  County, 
stands  upon  an  elevated  plateau  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  Great  Miami  River^ 
which  affords  a fine  water-power.  A 
navigable  feeder  of  the  Miami  Canal  also 
passes  through  the  village.  There  is  a 
public  square  in  the  centre  of  the  place. 
Sidney  is  at  the  intersection  of  the  Dayton 
dc  Michigan  Railway. 

58 


Union,  O.  & Snd.  (826  miles),  is 
partly  in  Darke  County,  Ohio,  and  partly 
in  Randolph  County,  Indiana.  It  is  a 
flourishing  place,  and  is  the  point  where 
the  Daytmi  <b  Union.,  and  the  Columbus^ 
Chicago  <Sc  Indiana  Central  Railways  con- 
nect. 

1-VincIaester,  In^l.  (835  miles), 
is  situated  upon  White  River.,  and  is  the 
capital  of  Randolph  County.  It  is  a 
thriving  place. 

Mnncie,  Snd,  (856  miles),  the 
capital  of  Delaware  County,  is  delightfully 
situated  in  a fertile  country,  on  the  bank 
of  White  River.  It  occupies  the  site  of  a 
town  of  the  Muncie  Indians. 

AmdlersoKi,  Imfll.  (874  miles),  the 
capital  of  Madison  County,  is  beautifully 
situated  upon  the  left  bank  of  White 
River.  It  is  built  upon  a bluff  some  fifty 
feet  above  the  river,  and  is  in  the  midst 
of  a very  fertile  region.  A few  miles 
above  the  city  is  a dam  by  which  a fall 
of  34  feet  is  obtained,  the  extensive 
water-power  being  used  by  numerous 
manufacturing  establishments.  The  Co- 
lumbus., Chicago  do  Indiana  Central  Rail- 
way connects  here. 

S^eiadletOEi,  Sia^.  (882  miles),  is 
a prosperous  village  on  Eall  Creek,  which 
affords  here  a good  water-power.  Marble 
and  limestone  are  quarried  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. 

Indianapolis,  Snd.  (910  miles). 
Here  the  traveller  is  transferred  to  the 
Indianapolis  do  St.  Louis  Railway.  (For 
description,  see  page  43). 

B>anville,  find.  (929  miles),  the 
capital  of  Hendricks  County,  is  the  scat 
of  the  county  seminary.  The  new  county 
buildings  cost  $180,000. 

^reeiicastle,  Ind.  (949  miles), 
has  been  described  in  page  44.  The 
Louisville,  New  Albany  do  Chicago  Railway 
connects  here. 

Terre  Mante,  End.  (982  miles), 
has  been  described  on  page  45.  From 
this  city  there  are  two  roads  to  St.  Louis, 
one  of  them  has  been  described  in  Route 
YII.  The  Evansville  do  Crawfordsville 
Railway  connects  here. 

E®aris,  111.  (1,001  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  place,  and  the  capital  of  Edgar 
County. 

C3iarlestoii,Ell.  (1,022  miles),  the 
capital  of  Coles  County,  is  situated  on  the 


Mattoon.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  IX. 


[Aurora, 


edge  of  Grand  Prairie,  and  is  the  seat  of 
a medical  college.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  cities  on  the  line  of  the  road, 
having  a very  large  trade  and  important 
manufacturing  interests. 

Mattoom,  lO.  (1,038  miles),  is  one 
of  the  principal  towns  between  Terre 
Haute  and  St.  Louis.  It  has  flourishing 
business,  and  is  where  the  Chicago 
Branch  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway 
connects.  The  machine-shops,  round- 
house, and  car-works  of  this  division  of 
the  road  are  situated  here. 

Sii.  (1,061  miles), 
the  capital  of  Shelby  County,  is  a rapidly- 
growing  place.  It  is  situated  upon  the 
Kaskaskia  River,  The  public  - school 
building  is  a handsome  edifice. 

S^aiaa,  111,  (IjOV'l  miles),  an  in- 
corporated city,  is  a place  of  some  im- 
portance as  a railway  centre,  and  being 
in  a rich  agricultural  country  does  a large 
business.  Connections  are  made  here 
v/ith  the  Northern  Division  of  ih.Q  Illinois 
Central  Railway^  and  with  the  Springfield 
<&  Illinois  Southeastern  Railway. 

ISillslboro’,  111.  (1,105  miles), 
the  capital  of  Montgomery  County,  is 
situated  on  a fork  of  Shoal  Creek.  It 
has  unusual  manufacturing  advantages, 
and  is  delightfully  located. 

ELiitelilielcl^  111,  (1,116  miles), 
situated  on  a high  and  fertile  prairie, 
contains  several  steam-mills,  and  the  con- 
struction and  repair  shops  of  this  portion 
of  the  road,  besides  a number  of  manu- 
factories. There  are  several  grain-eleva- 
tors here,  and  the  Litchfield  coal-mines 
afford  an  abundant  supply  of  fuel.  The 
public  square  is  ornamented  with  trees 
and  shrubbery.  Litchfield  was  incor- 
porated as  a city  in  1859. 

ISusil^eir  imi.  III.  (1,135  miles), 
which  is  built  on  a high  roiling  prairie, 
is  one  of  the  pleasantest  places  on  the 
road. 

Hctlasilto,  111,  (1,146  miles),  is 
where  the  road  leaves  the  prairie  and 
enters  the  American  Bottom.^  as  the  strip 
of  rich  alluvial  land  between  the  Missis- 
sippi River  and  the  bluffs  is  called  ; scat- 
tered over  it  in  all  directions  are  numer- 
ous lakes,  bayous,  and  sloughs.  This 
bottom  is  often  inundated  by  floods.  The 
last  time  that  any  serious  damage  resulted 
from  this  cause  was  in  1844. 


Altoaa  •B'la.iactioia,  111.  (1,150 
miles),  is  where  a branch  to  Alton  diverges, 
connecting  with  the  Keokuk  Packet  Line^ 
on  the  Mississippi  River. 

111,  (1,1^72 

miles),  is  a suburb  of  St.  Louis,  and  is  the 
seat  of  large  manufactories. 

^1.  SLiOiiis,  Mo.  (1,1'73  miles).  {See 
page  46.) 


MOUTE  IX. 

KEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS. 

Via  Pom-handle  Route.,  which  is  Route  VI.  to 

Cincinnati;  thence  via  Ohio  S Mississippi 

Railway. 

Ohio  & Mississippi  Railway. — Sta- 
tions.— Cincinnati,  V58  miles  ; Lawrence- 
burg  (connects  with  Indianapolis,  Cincin- 
nati & Lafayette  Railway),  '7 '78  ; Aurora, 
'782  ; 0sgood,810  ; North  Vernon  (connects 
with  Madison  Branch  of  Jeffersonville, 
Madison  & Indianapolis  Railway),  831 ; 
Seymour  (connects  with  Main  Line  of 
Jeffersonville,  Madison  & Indianapolis 
Railway)  845 ; Medora,  864 ; Mitchell 
(connects  with  Evansville,  New  Albany  & 
Chicago  Railway),  885  ; Loogootee,  916  ; 
Washington,  931 ; Vincennes  (connects 
with  Evansville  & Crawfordsville  Rail- 
way), 950  ; Olney,  981 ; Clay  City,  996 ; 
Xenia,  1,013;  Salem,  1,029;  Odin  (con- 
nects with  Chicago  Branch  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  1,034;  Sandoval  (con- 
nects with  Main  Line  of  Illinois  Central 
Railv/ay),  1,038 ; Carlyle,  1,051 ; Trenton, 
1,068  ; Lebanon,  1,075  ; Caseyville,  1,089  ; 
East  St.  Louis,  1,097 ; St.  Louis  (con- 
nects with  all  railway  and  steamboat 
lines),  1,098. 

CiBUciimati,  O,  (758  miles),  has 
already  been  described.  (See  page  31.) 

I^aiirence'toiirg’,  lad,  (7'78 
miles),  the  capital  of  Dearborn  County, 
is  situated  on  the  Ohio  River.,  at  the  end 
of  the  Whitewater  Canal,  which  affords  a 
good  water-power.  The  Indianapolis, 
Cincinnati  <£"  Lafayette  Railway  connects 
here. 

Aarora,  lad.  (782  miles)  is  a 
beautiful  city  on  the  Ohio  River,  doing  a 
large  business  as  a shipping-port  for  the 
rich  farming  country  of  which  it  is  the 
outlet. 


59 


North  Vernon.]  WESTERN  TOUR.  [Stations. 


Noi*tla  Tersaosi,  IndL.  (831 
miles),  is  the  connection  of  the  Madison 
Branch  of  the  Jeffersonville^  Madison  & 
Indianapolis  Bailway, 

Seymour,  IstdL.  (845  miles),  is  a 
growing  village,  at  the  intersection  of  the 
Jeffersonville^  Madison  & Indianapolis 
Railway. 

Meiora,  (864  miles),  is  a 

small  village  situated  near  the  Bast  Fork 
of  White  River. 

Mitelaeli,  Sad.  (885  miles),  is  at 
the  intersection  of  the  Evansville^  Few 
Albany  do  Chicago  Railway. 

W'asEaiag.’tom,  Sad.  (931  miles), 
the  capital  and  principal  town  of  Daviess 
County,  is  3 miles  east  of  the  Wabash 
Erie  Canal. 

Tlacesaaes,  Sad.  (950  miles),  is 
situated  upon  the  Wabash  River^  which 
is  here  navigable  for  steamboats.  It  is 
the  oldest  town  in  the  State,  having  been 
settled  by  French  Canadians,  about  the 
year  1735,  who  for  several  generations 
lived  without  other  neighbors.  Until 
1813  it  was  the  seat  of  the  territorial 
government,  and  is  now  the  capital  of 
Knox  County.  It  contains  several  manu- 
factories. The  Evansville  & Crawfords- 
ville  Railway  connects  here. 

Olaey,  SII.  (981  miles),  is  the  capital 
of  Richland  County,  the  general  character 
of  which  is  suggested  by  the  name.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  prosperous  places  on  the 
line  of  the  road,  and  contains  a school- 
house  which  cost  $80,000. 

day  dty9  Sil.  (996  miles),  is  a 
place  of  about  1,000  inhabitants,  situated 
on  the  Wabash  River ^ just  on  the  edge  of 
the  prairie. 

iciiia,  Hil.  (1,013  miles),  is  a 
small  but  pleasant  place. 

Galena,  111.  (1,029  miles),  the 
capital  of  Marion  County,  is  a place  of 
about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  growing 
in  importance. 

Odiia,  Ell.  (1,034  miles),  from  its 
railroad  facilities  is  of  some  importance 
as  a Shipping-point.  The  Chicago  Branch 
of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway  connects 
here. 

111.  (1,038  miles),  is 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Main  lAne  of  the 
Illinx)is  Central  Railway.  It  is  a pros- 
perous place,  in  the  midst  of  a fine  fruit- 
growing region.  The  Ohio  & Mississippi 
60 


company  has  an  engine-house  and  largo 
repair-shops  here. 

Carlyle,  111.  (1,051  miles),  is 
situated  on  the  margin  of  a fine  prairie, 
on  the  right  bank  of  Kaskaskia  River., 
and  is  a lumber-market  of  some  impor- 
tance, logs  being  floated  to  this  point, 
where  they  are  made  into  lumber  and 
sent  to  St.  Louis. 

'Freatoa,  Sll.  (1,068  miles),  is  an 
important  shipping-place  for  corn  and 
wheat. 

lL<el>ai&oii,  Ell.  (1,075  miles),  is  a 
beautifully-situated  place,  and  is  the  seat 
of  McKendree  College.  It  is  well  built, 
and  contains  a handsome  Union  school- 
house. 

Casey ville.  111.  (1,089  miles),  is 
where  the  traveller  first  enters  the  great 
American  Bottom.  It  is  just  at  the  foot 
of  the  bluff,  and  is  one  of  the  principal 
points  from  which  the  city  of  St.  Louis  is 
supplied  w'ith  coal ; the  bluffs  being 
underlain  by  inexhaustible  mines  of  coal, 
veins  of  from  six  to  eight  feet  in  thick- 
ness cropping  out  along  the  river  for 
many  miles. 

^l.ELioais,  Sll.  (1,097  miles), 
is  a small  city,  or  more  properly  suburb, 
of  St.  Louis. 

EiOiiis,  Mo.  (1,098  miles).  {See, 
page  46.) 

MO  UTE  X. 

BALTIMORE  TO  ST.  LOUIS. 

Via  Baltimore  & Ohio.,  Little  Miami  and 
Ohio  db  Mississippi  Railways.  {Time,  4.5X 
hrs. — Fare,  $24.) 

Stations. — ^Baltimore  k Ohio  Rail- 
way— Main  Line.  — Baltimore  — Wash- 
ington Junction  (connects  with  Washing- 
ton Branch  Railway),  9 miles ; Ellicott’s 
Mills,  15  ; Elysville,  20  ; Marriottsville, 
27 ; Sykesville,  31 ; Mount  Airy,  42 ; 
Monrovia,  50 ; Frederick  Junction,  58 ; 
Point  of  Rocks,  69  ; Hagerstown  Junction 
(connects  with  Washington  County  Di- 
vision), 79  ; Sandy  Hook,  80  ; Harper’s 
Ferry  (connects  with  Winchester,  Poto- 
mac & Strasburg  Division),  81 ; Dufiields, 
87 ; Kearneysville,  92  ; Martinsburg,  100 ; 
North  Mountain,  107  ; Cherry  Run,  113  ; 
Sleepy  Creek,  117 ; Hancock,  123 ; Sir 
John’s  Run  (connects  with  stages  for 
Berkeley  Springs),  128;  L.  Cacapon 


Stations.] 


BALTIMORE  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  X. 


[Stations. 


Siding,  156;  Green  Spring  Run,  163; 
Paterson’s  Creek,  170 ; Cumberland 
^connects  with  Cumberland  and  Pennsyl- 
vania Railway),  178;  Brady’s  Mill,  185; 
Piedmont  (connects  with  Cumberland  & 
Pennsylvania  Railway),  206 ; Prankville, 
214;  Altamont,  223  ; Oakland,  232; 
Cranberry  Summit,  242 ; Rowlesburg, 
253 ; Tunnelton,  260 ; Newburg,  266  ; 
Grafton  (connects  with  Parkersburg 
Division),  279  ; Petterman,  281 ; Texas, 
294;  Benton’s  Perry,  297;  Pairmont, 
302;  Parmington,  312;  Mannington, 
319;  Littleton,  337;  Bellton,  344; 
Cameron,  351 ; Moundsville,  360  ; Ben- 
wood  (connects  with  Central  Ohio  Di- 
vision), 375. 

Stations — Central  Ohio  Division. — 
Bellaire,  376  miles  from  Baltimore  ; Glen- 
coe, 386  ; Warnock,  388  ; Lewis’s. Mills, 
391;  Belmont,  394;  Burr’s  Mill,  396; 
Barnesville,  403  ; Spencer’s,  410 ; Mill- 
wood,  411 ; Salesville,  413  ; Gibson’s, 
417;  Campbell’s,  420;  Cambridge,  428 ; 
Cassel’s,  432;  Concord,  437;  Norwich, 
440 ; Sonora,  447 ; Coal  Dale,  450 ; 
Zanesville  (connects  with  Cincinnati  & 
Zanesville  Railway),  454 ; Dillon’s  Palls, 
458  ; Pleasant  Valley,  483  ; Claypool’s, 
466  ; Black  Hand,  469  ; Clay  Lick,  474  ; 
Newark  (connects  with  Lake  Erie  Divi- 
sion and  with  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & 
St.  Louis  Railway),  480 ; Union,  486  ; 
Kirkersville,  491 ; Pataskala,  492  ; Co- 
lumbia, 493  ; Black  Lick,  499  ; Taylor’s, 
501  ; Columbus  (connects  with  Little 
Miami  Railway,  with  Cleveland,  Columbus, 
Cincinnati  & Indianapolis  Railway,  with 
Columbus,  Chicago  & Indiana  Central 
Railway,  with  Springfield  & Columbus 
Railway,  and  with  Columbus  & Hocking 
Valley  Railway),  509. 

Stations. — Little  Miami  Railway. — 
Alton,  515  ; West  Jefferson,  523  ; Lon- 
don (connects  with  London  Branch  of  Cin- 
cinnati, Sandusky  & Cleveland  Railway), 
534  ; South  Charleston,  545  ; Cedarville, 
556 ; Xenia  (connects  with  Dayton  & 
Xenia  and  Dayton  & Western  Railways), 
564 ; Corwin,  578  ; Port  Ancient,  588 ; 
Morrow  (connects  with  Cincinnati  & 
Muskingum  Valley  Railway),  593  ; South 
Lebanon,  597;  Poster’s,  602;  Loveland 
(connects  with  Marietta  & Cincinnati 
Railway),  606;  Milford,  615;  Cincinnati 
(connects  with  railways  diverging  from 


Cincinnati,  and  with  Cincinnati  k Louis- 
ville United  States  Mail  Line  Steamers), 
629. 

The  grandeur  of  the  scenery  along 
the  line  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail- 
way makes  it  one  of  the  most  attractive 
routes  that  tourists  can  take,  and  now  it 
possesses  the  additional  interest  of  hav- 
ing been  the  theatre  of  some  of  the  most 
exciting  scenes  in  the  late  civil  war.  The 
more  important  only  can  be  mentioned 
here,  but  the  road  is  described  with  great 
minuteness  in  Appletons’  Hand-Book  op 
Travel— Southern  Tour. 

As  a grand  trunk  line,  the  Baltimore 
& Ohio  Railway  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant in  the  country.  The  origina, 
road  extended  from  Baltimore  to  Wheel- 
ing on  the  Ohio  River,  a distance  of  379 
miles,  and  was  first  opened  to  the  public 
in  1853.  W'ork  was  commenced  on  the 
4th  day  of  July,  1828,  and  the  first  sec- 
tion, from  Baltimore  to  Ellicott’s  Mills,  a 
distance  of  15  miles,  was  opened  for  travel 
in  August,  1830,  the  trial  trip  of  the  first 
locomotive  being  made  on  the  25th  of 
that  month. 

Although  commenced  at  the  early  date 
named,  it  was  not  until  the  1st  of  June, 
1853,  that  the  road  v/as  finished,  when 
for  the  first  time  a train  passed  over  its 
entire  length.  The  completion  was  cele- 
brated by  a grand  excursion  and  public 
rejoicings  along  the  whole  line. 

Since  that  time,  by  the  construction 
of  branch  roads,  and  by  the  absorption 
of  the  Cerdral  Ohio  and  Sandusky^  Mam- 
field  d::  Newark  Railways^  it  has  added  842 
miles  to  its  track,  and  secured  direct 
communication  with  Lake  Erie  over  its 
own  rails. 

It  suffered  severely  during  the  war, 
by  the  destruction  of  its  track,  bridges, 
and  rolling-stock.  On  the  16th  of  May, 
1861,  several  bridges  were  destroyed  and 
portions  of  the  track  torn  up.  June  14th, 
the  costly  bridge  at  Harper'' 8 Ferry  was 
vf holly  destroyed ; and  on  the  23d  of  the 
same  month  46  locomotive  engines  and 
upward  of  300  cars,  valued  at  nearly 
half  a million  dollars,  were  burned  by 
order  of  the  Confederate  General,  Joseph 
E.  Johnston. 

To  see  this  road,  and  the  numerous 
points  and  objects  of  interest  tributary  to 
it,  the  traveller  should  be  prepared  to 
61 


Baltimore.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mount  Airy. 


spend  at  least  three  days  between  Balti- 
more and  Wheeling;  a fortnight  might 
well  be  passed  in  making  the  entire  dis- 
tance and  returning. 

MaltiKHLore,  the  principal 

city  in  the  State,  is  fully  described  in 
“ Appletons’  Hand-Book  op  American 
Travel — Southern  Tour.” 

In  leaving  the  city  by  this  road,  one  no 
sooner  emerges  from  the  dingy  suburbs 
than  the  pleasures  of  the  trip  commence. 
Looking  back,  one  obtains  a good  general 
view  of  the  city,  and  then  crosses 

Carrollton  Viaduct^  a fine  bridge  of 
dressed  granite,  with  an  arch  of  80  feet 
span,  over  Owynn's  Falls^  after  which  the 
road  soon  reaches  the  long  and  deep  ex- 
cavation under  the  Washington  Turnpike, 
which  is  carried  over  the  railroad  by  the 
Jac1cso7i  Bridge.  Less  than  a mile  farther 
the  “ deep  cut  ” is  encountered,  famous 
for  its  difficulties  in  the  early  history  of 
the  road.  It  is  76  feet  in  extreme  depth, 
and  nearly  half  a mile  in  length.  Beyond 
this  the  road  crosses  the  deep  ravine  of 
BoherVs  Run^  and,  skirting  the  ore-banks 
of  the  old  Baltimore  Iron  Company,  now 
covered  by  a dense  forest  of  cedar-trees, 
comes  to  the  long  and  deep  embankment 
over  the  valley  of  Gadsby's  Run^  and 
the  heavy  cut  through  Vinegar  Hill  im- 
mediately following  it. 

W'a slaingt on  •function, 
MdL.  (9  miles),  was  formerly  known  as 
the  Relay  House^  from  the  stages  for 
Washington  changing  horses  here.  This 
name,  however,  has  been  changed,  so  as 
not  to  be  confounded  with  a similar  one 
given  to  a station  on  the  Northern  Central 
Railway.  The  branch  to  Washington 
diverges  here.  Except  as  a railway  junc- 
tion the  place  has  no  importance. 

At  this  point  the  open  country  of  sand 
and  clay  ends,  and  the  region  of  rock 
begins  at  the  entrance  to  the  gorge  of 
the  Patapsco  River.  In  entering  this  de- 
file, there  is  a fine  view  of  the  Thomas 
Viaduct  (named  after  the  first  President 
of  the  Company),  a noble  granite  struct- 
ure of  eight  elliptic  arches,  each  of  about 
60  feet  chord,  spanning  the  stream  at  a 
height  of  66  feet  above  the  bed,  and  of  a 
total  length  of  some  700  feet.  The  pretty 
village  of  Elkridge  Landing  is  in  sight,  and 
upon  the  surrounding  heights  are  seen  a 
number  of  pleasant  country-scats. 

62 


The  road  now  pursues  its  devious  course 
up  the  river,  passing  the  Avalon  Iron 
Works,  a mile  beyond  Washington  Junc- 
tion, and  two  miles  farther  we  come  to 
an  iron  bridge  of  170  feet  span,  which 
crosses  the  river  at  the  Ilchester  Mills, 
at  a very  rugged  part  of  the  ravine.  The 
Thistle  Cotton  Factory  appears  imme- 
diately beyond,  and,  soon  after,  Gray’s 
Cotton  Factory  comes  in  view. 

flllicott’s  Mills,  Md.  (15  miles)^ 
is  in  a bold,  rocky  passage  of  the  Patapsco^ 
which  runs  leaping  and  dashing  through 
the  village  in  full  view  from  the  car-win- 
dows. The  constantly-changing  scenery 
is  charming,  and  the  old  town  itself  is  a 
study  for  an  artist. 

The  Frederick  Turnpike-road  passes 
through  the  town  here,  and  is  crossed  by 
the  railroad  upon  the  Oliver  Viaduct^  a 
handsome  stone  bridge  of  three  arches, 
each  of  20  feet  span.  Just  beyond  this 
bridge  is  the  Tarpeian  RocTc^  a bold,  in- 
sulated mass  of  granite,  between  which 
and  the  body  of  the  cliff  the  railroad 
edges  its  way. 

Elysvilie,  (20  miles),  is  the 

site  of  a large  factory,  which  can  be  seen 
from  the  cars.  The  road  here  (within  a 
short  distance)  twice  crosses  the  river, 
the  first  time  by  a viaduct  of  three  spans, 
each  of  110  feet,  and  the  second  time  by 
another  nearly  as  long. 

Mara^iolt^ville,  Mil.  (27  miles), 
a small  place,  noted  for  its  lime-quar- 
ries, along  which  the  road  runs,  crosses 
the  Patapsco  by  an  iron  bridge  50  feet 
span,  and  dashes  through  a sharp  spur 
of  the  hill  by  a tunnel  400  feet  long  in 
mica-slate  rock.  After  passing  one  or 
two  rocky  hills  at  Hood’s  Mill,  it  leaves 
the  granite  region  and  enters  upon  the 
gentle  slopes  of  the  slate  hills,  among 
which  the  river  meanders  until  we  reach 
the  foot  of  Parr's  Ridge^  which  divides 
the  waters  of  the  Patapsco  from  those  of 
the  Potomac. 

MowMt  Airy,  MdL.  (42  miles). 
From  the  summit  of  the  ridge  at  this  sta- 
tion is  a noble  view  westward  across  the 
Fredericktown  Valley,  and  as  far  as  the 
Catoctin  Mountain,  some  15  miles  distant. 
The  road  thence  descends  into  the  valley 
of  Bush  Creek,  a stream  of  moderate 
curves  and  gentle  slopes,  except  where 
in  some  places  it  breaks  through  ranges 


Frederick  Junc’n.]  BALTIMORE  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  X.  [Point  of  Rocks. 


of  trap  rocks,  which  interpose  themselves 
among  the  softer  shales.  The  Monrovia 
and  Ijamsville  Stations  are  passed  at 
Bush  Creek.  The  slates  terminate  at  the 
Monocacy  River,  and  the  limestone  of  the 
Fredericktown  Valley  commences.  The 
Monocacy  River  is  crossed  by  an  iron 
bridge  of  three  spans,  110  feet  each, 
and  elevated  about  40  feet  above  its 
bed. 

The  valley  of  the  Monocacy  is  equally 
remarkable  for  its  beauties  of  position, 
its  rich  agricultural  resources,  and  its 
mineral  wealth. 

(58  miles),  better  known  as  Monocacy^  is 
the  point  of  departure  for  Frederick  City. 
Here  the  traveller  will  pass  the  battle- 
ground  where,  on  the  9th  of  July,  1864, 
General  Lew.  Wallace  and  the  Federal 
forces  were  defeated  by  a superior  Con- 
ederate  force,  and  compelled  to  retreat 
to  Baltimore.  Subsequent  developments 
make  it  seem  probable  that  the  gallant 
stand  at  the  Monocacy  Bridge  by  General 
Wallace  on  that  day,  and  the  heavy  loss 
that  he  inflicted  on  the  enemy,  saved 
Washington  from  capture  on  the  12th. 

1^2.*ed.ericlc  City,  (62 

miles),  is  reached  by  a branch  from  the 
junction.  It  ranks  as  the  third  city  in 
the  State,  and  is  the  capital  of  Frederick 
County.  It  is  well  built,  the  houses  being 
generally  of  brick  or  stone,  and  the 
streets  are  broad,  straight,  and  laid  out 
regularly.  It  contains  a fine  court-house, 
a number  of  handsome  churches,  and 
several  educational  institutions,  among 
which  Bt.  John) 8 Roman  Catholic  College 
is  the  most  prominent. 

From  the  Monocacy  to  the  Point  of 
Rocks,  the  road,  having  escaped  from  the 
narrow,  winding  valleys  to  which  it  has 
thus  far  been  confined,  bounds  away  over 
the  beautiful  champaign  country  lying  be- 
tween that  river  and  the  Catoctin  Moun- 
tains. 

This  range  of  mountains,  a continua- 
tion of  the  Blue  Ridge,  runs  west  of  Fred- 
erick, due  south,  to  the  Point  of  Rocks. 
Between  this  range  and  the  South  Moun- 
tain, which  slopes  to  the  Potomac  at 
Knoxville,  nestles  Maryland’s  loveliest  val- 
ley, the  valley  of  Catoctin,  of  which  Mid- 
dletown, 10  miles  from  Frederick,  is  the 
centre.  A conspieuous  elevation  at  the 


termination  of  the  Catoctin  range  is 
known  as  the  Sugar-loaf  Mountain. 

Md,  (69  miles)w 
This  station  takes  its  name  from  a bold 
promontory,  which  is  formed  by  the  pro* 
file  of  the  Catoctin  Mountain^  against 
the  base  of  which  the  Potomac  River 
runs  on  the  Maryland  side,  the  moun- 
tain towering  up  on  the  opposite  (Vir- 
ginia) shore  forming  the  other  barrier 
of  the  pass.  The  railroad  here  passes 
the  point  by  a tunnel  cut  through  the 
solid  rock  for  1,500  feet.  Two  miles 
beyond  is  another  cliff,  and  more  excava- 
tion and  walling.  Beyond,  the  ground 
becomes  comparatively  smooth,  and  the 
railroad,  leaving  the  immediate  margin 
of  the  river  to  the  canal,  runs  along  the 
base  of  the  gently-sloping  hills,  passing 
the  villages  of  Berlin  and  Knoxville,  and 
reaching  the  Weverton  Factories,  in  the 
pass  to  the  South  Mountain. 

The  Rattle  of  South  Mountain  really 
commenced  at  a bridge  over  Catoctin 
Creek,  half  a mile  west  of  Middletown, 
where  Confederate  artillery  had  been 
posted  to  dispute  the  passage.  After 
most  desperate  fighting,  the  crest  of  the 
hill  was  gained  by  the  Federal  troops  and 
the  enemy  driven  into  the  valley  on  the 
west  side  of  the  mountain.  Turner's  Gap^ 
where  the  last  desperate  stand  of  the  Con- 
federate right  was  made,  is  two  miles  from 
the  base  of  the  mountain.  Crampton's 
Gap^  through  which  passes  the  road  from 
Jeferson  to  RoherviUe,  is  six  miles  south. 

From  South  Mountain  to  Harper's  Fer- 
ry., the  road  lies  along  the  foot  of  a pre- 
cipice for  the  greater  part  of  the  distance 
of  three  miles,  the  last  of  which  is  immedi- 
ately under  the  rocky  cliffs  of  Elk  Moun- 
tain, forming  the  north  side  of  this  noted 
pass.  The  Shenandoah  River  enters  the 
Potomac  immediately  below  the  bridge 
over  the  latter,  and  their  united  currents 
rush  rapidly  over  the  broad  ledges  of 
rock  which  stretch  across  their  bed.  The 
length  of  the  bridge  is  about  900  feet, 
and  at  its  western  end  it  divides  into  two, 
the  left-hand  branch  connecting  with  the 
Winchester  c&  Potomac  Railway.,  which 
passes  directly  up  the  Shenandoah,  and 
the  right-hand  carrying  the  main  road,  by 
a strong  curve  in  that  direction,  up  the 
Potomac.  The  bridge  consists  of  six 
arches  of  130  and  one  arch  of  about  15 
63 


Harper’s  Ferry.] 


VfESTERN  TOUR. 


[Harper’s  Ferry. 


feet  span  over  the  river,  and  an  arch  of 
about  100  feet  span  over  the  canal ; all 
of  which  are  iron.  This  viaduct  is  re- 
markable for  its  length  and  for  its  pecu- 
liar structure,  the  two  ends  of  it  being 
curved  in  opposite  directions,  and  bifur- 
cated at  the  western  extremity. 

Two  miles  before  reaching  IJarper\ 
Ferry  we  come  to  Hagerstown  Junction^ 
where  the  Washington  County  Division 
of  the  road  diverges.  This  division,  con- 
necting with  the  Cumberland  Valley  Rail- 
way^  affords  direct  communication  with 
Harrisburg  and  the  North. 

Marper’®  ff’era-y,  'W.  Va.  (81 
miles),  and  all  its  fine  points  of  scenery, 
are  too  well  known  to  need  elaborate 
description  here.  The  precipitous  moun- 
tains which  rise  from  the  water’s  edge 
leave  little  level  ground  on  the  river 
margin,  and  all  of  that  was  occupied  by 
the  United  States  Armory  buildings. 
Hence  the  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railroad 
has  been  obliged  to  build  itself  a road  in 
the  river-bed  for  upward  of  half  a mile, 
along  the  outer  boundary  of  the  Govern- 
ment works,  upon  a trestle-work,  resting, 
on  the  side  next  to  the  river,  upon  an  in- 
sulated wall  of  masonry,  and  upon  the 
other  side  supported  by  strong  iron 
columns  placed  upon  the  retaining  wall 
of  the  Armory  grounds. 

The  town  is  delightfully  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Potomac  and  Shenan- 
doah  Rivers^  in  Jefferson  County,  Va.,  160 
miles  north  of  Richmond  and  63  miles 
northwest  of  Washington.  It  is  com- 
pactly though  irregularly  built  around  the 
base  of  a hill. 

Besides  the  Armory,  a National  Arse- 
nal was  located  there.  Both  buildings, 
with  nearly  15,000  stand  of  arms,  were 
destroyed  by  fire,  April  18,  1861,  on  the 
approach  of  the  Yirginia  State  troops. 
Southern  troops  soon  occupied  the  town 
and  adjacent  heights,  and,  by  May  20th, 
the  number  of  Confederate  soldiers  on  the 
spot  was  estimated  at  8,000.  On  the 
14th  the  point  was  evacuated.  Previous 
to  the  war  it  was  a prosperous  trading- 
place,  and  was  known  in  the  early  days 
of  Yirginia  as  Shenandoah  Falls.  It  was 
once  “ the  garden  spot  of  Yirginia ; ” but 
war,  though  it  has  rendered  it  more  inter- 
esting to  the  traveller,  has,  for  the  present 
at  least,  robbed  it  of  its  claim  to  the 
64 


former  distinction.  It  was  the  scene  of 
the  exploits  which  in  October,  1859,  ren- 
dered the  name  of  John  Brov/n,  of  Ossa- 
wattomic-Kansas  notoriety,  still  more  no- 
torious. Charlestown^  the  county-seat, 
where  Brown  and  his  followers  were  tried 
and  executed,  is  seven  miles  distant,  on 
the  road  to  Winchester.  Yisitors  to  Har- 
per’s Ferry  should  not  fail  to  see  the  Mary- 
land Heights,  Bolivar  Heights,  Loudon 
Heights,  and  the  fortifications  which  have 
been  erected  on  them.  This  was  the 
theatre  of  one  of  Stonewall  Jackson’s 
most  famous  exploits,  when  Harper’s 
Ferry  was  taken  by  the  Confederates  in 
September,  1862. 

After  passing  the  site  of  the  uppermost 
of  the  Armory  buildings,  the  road  runs 
along  the  outer  bank  of  the  Chesapeake 
dt  Ohio  Canalj  which  brings  the  water 
of  the  river  to  the  works,  and  soon 
crosses  this  canal  by  an  iron  bridge  150 
feet  span.  Thence  the  road  passes  up 
the  river  on  the  inner  side  of  the  canal, 
and  opposite  the  dam  at  its  head,  about 
one  and  three-quarters  of  a mile  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Shenandoah,  and  pierces  a 
projecting  rock  by  a tunnel  or  gallery  of 
80  feet  in  length. 

The  view  down  the  river  through  this 
perforation  is  singularly  picturesque,  pre- 
senting the  pass  through  the  mountain  at 
the  confluence  of  the  rivers  in  one  of  its 
most  remarkable  aspects.  A short  dis- 
tance above  the  tunnel,  where  the  river 
sweeps  gradually  round  to  the  eastward 
in  the  broad  smooth  sheet  of  water  cre- 
ated by  the  dam,  the  railroad  leaves  the 
Potomac  and  passes  up  the  ravine  of  Elk 
Branch^  v/hich  presents  itself  at  this  point 
in  a favorable  direction.  This  ravine,  at 
first  narrow  and  serpentine,  becomes 
wider  and  more  direct,  until  it  almost 
loses  itself  in  the  rolling  table-land  which 
characterizes  the  “Yalley  of  Yirginia.” 
The  head  of  Elk  Branch  is  reached  in 
about  nine  miles,  and  thence  the  line  de- 
scends gradually  over  an  undulating 
champaign  country,  to  the  crossing  of 
the  “Opequon”  Creek,  which  it  passes 
by  an  iron  bridge  of  150  feet  span  and 
40  feet  above  the  water  surface.  Beyond 
the  crossing  the  road  enters  the  open 
valley  of  Tuscarora  Creek ^ which  it 
crosses  twice  and  follows  to  the  town  of 
Martinsburg. 


Kearneysyille.]  BALTIMORE  TO  ST, 

At  Harper’s  Ferry  the  Winchester^  Poto- 
mac <&  Strasburg  Division^  which  runs 
through  the  celebrated  Shenandoah  Val- 
ley, diverges. 

Meai-sicysvilSe,  'W*  (92 

miles),  was  the  scene  of  many  cavalry 
fights  between  Generals  Pleasanton, 
Averill,  Custer,  and  Merritt,  on  the  one 
side,  and  Fitz  Lee  and  Stuart  on  the 
other.  This  part  of  the  road,  and  indeed 
the  whole  region  around  Martinsburg,  in- 
cluding that  town  itself,  was  occupied 
alternately  at  least  fifteen  times  during 
the  y>far,  by  the  Federal  and  the  Confed- 
erate soldiers,  and  battles  were  almost 
continually  taking  place  in  its  vicinity. 

From  this  point,  by  riding  seven  miles 
over  the  turnpike-road  to  Sharpsburg^  Md., 
where  good  conveyances  can  be  had,  the 
tourist  can  reach  the  celebrated  battle- 
field of  Antieiam^  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
fiercest  contests  of  the  war.  The  battle 
was  fought  on  the  17th  of  September, 
1862,  between  the  Union  forces  under 
General  McClellan  and  the  Confederates 
under  General  Lee.  The  latter  was  de- 
feated and  driven  back  across  the  Poto- 
mac, this  battle  closing  the  campaign  for 
the  year. 

Although  the  battle  of  Antictaw.  is 
spoken  of,  much  of  the  fighting  was  done 
in  the  village  of  Sharpsburg^  which  is 
situated  near  the  west  bank  of  Antietam 
Creek,  14  miles  south  of  Hagerstown.  The 
town  still  bears  many  marks  of  the  fight, 
the  houses  being  perforated  by  shells,  and 
defaced  by  Minie  balls.  The  Lutheran 
and  Episcopal  Churches  suffered  so  se- 
verely that  they  had  to  be  pulled  down. 
The  principal  object  of  interest,  next  to 
the  battle-field  itself,  a fine  view  of  which 
it  commands,  is  the  National  Cemetery. 
The  plan  originated  with  Governor  Brad- 
ford, was  approved  by  the  General  As- 
sembly of  1865,  and  tlae  grounds  located 
on  the  site  they  now  occupy  upon  the 
summit  of  the  most  prominent  hill  of  the 
range  selected  by  Lee  for  his  line  of  bat- 
tle. The  view  is  at  once  commanding 
and  beautiful. 

"W,  '^a..  (100 
miles),  is  in  many  respects  an  old- 
fashioned-looking  place,  and,  except  for 
its  war  record,  of  no  great  interest.  It  is 
the  capital  of  Berkeley  County,  West 
Virginia,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on 


LOUIS,  ROUTE  X.  [Sir  John’s  Run. 

Tuscarora  CrceJc^  a rapid  stream,  which 
affords  fine  manufacturing  advantages. 
Here  the  traveller  will  find  the  scene  of 
the  most  destructive  labors  of  the  Con- 
federate troops.  It  was  here,  and  near 
here,  on  the  23d  June,  1861,  that  87  loco- 
motives and  400  freight-cars,  belonging  to 
the  railroad  company,  were  collected  by 
the  Confederate  troops  under  Jackson’s 
personal  direction,  and  burned  or  de- 
stroyed. 

At  Martinsburg  the  Tuscarora  is 
bridged  twice,  the  crossing  east  of  the 
town  being  made  upon  a viaduct  of  10 
spans  of  44  feet  each,  of  iron,  supported 
by  two  abutments  and  17  stone  columns. 
The  architectural  effect  of  this  structure 
is  good. 

During  the  war  Martinsburg  was  some- 
times in  the  hands  of  one  of  the  contend- 
ing parties,  and  sometimes  in  the  hands 
of  the  other.  The  railway  company  at 
this  point  have  builf  extensive  shops,  fine 
in  architectural  appearance,  and  fur- 
nished with  all  the  modern  mechanical 
appliances  for  the  construction  and  re- 
pair of  cars  and  engines. 

Norttla  W«  ‘Wsa* 

(107  miles),  is  where  the  road  crosses 
the  mountain  by  a long  excavation  63  feet 
in  depth,  cut  in  the  slate-rock,  through  a 
depression  therein,  passing  out  of  the 
valley,  having  traversed  its  entire  length 
upon  a line  26  miles  in  length.  On  leav- 
ing these  rich  and  well-tilled  lands,  we 
enter  a poor  and  thinly-settled  district, 
covered  chiefly  with  a forest  in  which 
stunted  pine  prevails.  There  is  a heavy 
excavation  and  embankment  for  four  or 
five  miles  from  the  North  Mountain.  The 
trains  cross  Back  Creek  over  a double- 
track iron  bridge,  80  feet  span,  and  54 
feet  above  the  stream.  The  view  of  the 
Potomac  Valley  is  magnificent  as  one  ap- 
proaches the  bridge.  It  extends  as  far 
as  the  distant  mountain-range  of  Sideling 
Hillj  25  miles  to  the  west.  The  immedi- 
ate margin  of  the  river  is  reached  at  a 
point  opposite  the  ruins  of  Fort  Frederick, 
on  the  Maryland  side.  The  fort  was 
built  more  than  a hundred  years  ago. 

HeeHiag*  Creels,  'W.  (117 

miles).  The  road  crosses  the  stream  of 
this  name,  by  a viaduct  of  two  spans  of 
110  feet  each. 

^ir  oSaii’s  Kiisa,  W.  Ta,  (128 
65 


Bm  John’s  Run.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Cumberland. 


miles),  was  the  scene  of  much  warlike 
preparation  and  activity  during  the  early 
days  of  the  civil  war.  It  is  the  point  of 
departure  for  the  Berkeley  Springs^  which 
are  situated  at  the  eastern  base  of  the 
Warm  Spring  Ridge,  two  miles  distant 
from  the  railway-station,  and  are  much 
frequented  by  travellers.  The  hotel  is 
elegantly  fitted  up,  lighted  by  gas,  and  is 
well  kept  during  the  season.  Coaches 
await  the  arrival  of  the  trains. 

Leaving  Sir  Johi’s  Bun^  the  track 
sweeps  around  the  termination  of  the 
Cacapon  Mountain,  opposite  the  remark- 
able and  insulated  eminence  called  the 
“ Round  Top.”  Thence  on  to  the  cross- 
ing of  the  Great  Cacapon  River,  nine  and 
a half  miles  above  Hancock,  which  is 
crossed  by  a bridge  about  300  feet  in 
length.  Within  the  next  mile  it  passes 
dam  No.  6 of  the  Chesapeake  k Ohio 
Canal,  and  soon  after  it  enters  the  gap  of 
Sideling  Hill. 

The  next  point  of  interest  reached  is 
the  Tunnel  at  Doe  Gully.  The  approaches 
are  very  imposing,  as  for  several  miles 
above  and  below  the  tunnel  they  cause 
the  road  to  occupy  a high  level  on  the 
slopes  of  the  river  hills,  and  thus  afford 
an  extensive  view  of  the  grand  mountain 
scenery  around. 

The  Paw  Paw  Bidge  Tunnel  is  next 
reached,  30  miles  from  Hancock,  and  25 
miles  below  Cumberland.  The  bore  is 
through  a soft  slate-rock,  and  is  curved 
horizontally  with  a radius  of  750  feet. 

The  viaduct  oyqy  Little  Cacapon  Creek  is 
143  feet  long.  About  five  and  a half  miles 
farther  on,  the  south  branch  of  the  Poto- 
mac is  crossed  on  a bridge  400  feet  long. 

Some  two  miles  above  is  a fine  straight 
line  over  the  widely-expanded  flats  oppo- 
site the  ancient  settlement  of  Old  Town, 
in  Maryland.  These  are  the  finest  bottom- 
lands on  the  Potomac,  and  from  the  upper 
end  of  them  is  obtained  the  first  view  of 
the  Knohly  Mountain^  that  remarkable 
range  which  lies  in  a line  with  the  town 
of  Cumberland,  and  is  so  singularly  di- 
versified by  a profile  which  makes  it  ap- 
pear like  a succession  of  artificial  mounds. 
Dali's  Mountain  towers  over  it,  forming 
a fine  background  to  the  view.  Soon 
after,  the  route  passes  the  high  cliffs 
known  as  Kelh/s  Boclcs,  where  there  has 
been  a very  heavy  excavation. 

66 


Crecli:,  W.  Va, 

(170  miles),  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  stream 
from  which  it  takes  its  name. 

Immediately  below  this  stream  is  a high 
precipice  of  limestone  and  sandstone 
rock,  singularly  perforated  in  some  of  the 
ledges  by  openings  which  look  like  Gothic 
loopholes.  The  valley  of  this  creek  is 
very  straight  and  bordered  by  beautiful 
flats.  The  viaduct  over  the  stream  is 
150  feet  long.  Less  than  two  miles  above, 
and  six  miles  from  Cumberland,  the  north 
branch  of  the  Potomac  is  crossed  by  a 
viaduct  700  feet  long,  and  rising  in  a suc- 
cession of  steps — embracing  also  a cross- 
ing of  the  Chesapeake  <So  Ohio  Canal 
This  extensive  bridge  carries  us  out  of 
Virginia,  and  lands  us  once  more  in  Mary- 
land, which  we  left  at  Harper’s  Ferry. 

The  route  thence  to  Cumberland  is 
across  two  bends  of  the  river,  between 
which  the  stream  of  EvetVs  Creek  is 
crossed  by  a viaduct  of  100  feet  span. 

Md,  (178  miles), 
is  in  the  mountain-region  of  the  narrow 
strip  which  forms  the  western  part  of 
the  State,  and  in  point  of  population  and 
trade  is  its  second  city. 

It  is  the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Great 
National  Road  leading  to  the  Mississippi, 
and  is  also  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Chesapeake  dt  Ohio  Canal.  In  the  vicin- 
ity are  fine  beds  of  coal.  Cumberland 
has  a court-house,  county  jail,  several 
banks,  some  handsome  churches  and  a 
good  hotel. 

The  company  has  built  at  this  point 
one  of  the  most  extensive  steel-rail  mills 
in  the  country,  for  the  purpose  of  manu- 
facturing its  own  rails. 

The  entrance  to  the  town  is  beautiful, 
and  displays  the  noble  amphitheatre  in 
which  it  lies  to  great  advantage,  the  gap 
of  WilVs  Mountain^  westward  of  the  town, 
being  a prominent  feature  of  the  view. 

The  brick  and  stone  viaduct  over  WilVs 
Creek  deserves  particular  notice.  It  con- 
sists of  14  elliptical  arches  of  50  feet  span 
and  13  feet  rise,  and  is  a well-built  and 
very' handsome  structure. 

From  Cumberland  to  Piedmont,  28 
miles,  the  scenery  is  remarkably  pictu- 
resque, perhaps  more  so  than  along  any 
other  section  of  the  road  of  simi- 
lar length.  For  the  first  22  miles,  to 
the  mouth  of  New  Creek,  the  Knobly 


Piedmont.] 


BALTIMOKE  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  X.  [Cheat  Riye^ 


Mountain  bounds  the  valleys  of  the  North 
Branch  of  the  Potomac  on  the  left,  and 
Will’s  and  Ban’s  Mountains  on  the  right ; 
thence  to  Piedmont,  the  river  lies  in  the 
gap  which  it  has  cut  through  the  latter 
mountain. 

Chimney-Hole  JRocJc^  at  the  termination 
of  Fort  Hill,  is  a singular  crag,  through 
the  base  of  which  the  railroad  company 
has  driven  a tunnel  under  the  road  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  a bridge  for  sev- 
eral streams  entering  the  river  at  that 
point. 

The  curious  cliffs  which  are  passed  dur- 
ing the  first  10  miles  after  leaving  Cum- 
berland ; the  wide  bottom-lands  extend- 
ing for  the  next  four  miles ; the  high 
rocky  bluffs  along  Fort  Hill,  and  the 
grand  precipice  opposite  to  them  on  the 
Virginia  shore,  immediately  below  the 
Black  Oak  Bottom^''  a celebrated  farm 
embracing  500  acres  in  a single  plain,  be- 
tween mountains  of  great  height,  are  all 
objects  worthy  of  the  notice  of  the  tour- 
ist. 

The  crossing  of  the  Potomac,  from  the 
Maryland  to  the  Virginia  shore,  is  21  miles 
from  Cumberland,  where  the  railroad, 
after  passing  through  a long  and  deep 
excavation,  spans  the  river  by  a bridge  of 
iron,  on  stone  abutments  and  a pier.  The 
vievf  at  this  point,  both  up  and  down  the 
river,  is  very  fine.  The  Bull’s  Head  Rock^ 
a mile  beyond  this  bridge,  is  a prominent 
object. 

S*ied.moiat,  W.  Va.  (206  miles). 
Here  the  traveller  reaches,  as  the  name 
implies,  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains. This  is  the  end  of  the  second 
Bivision  of  the  road,  and  here  are  located 
a hotel  and  extensive  machine-shops. 
The  village  stands  at  the  mouth  of  George 
Creek^  and  opposite  is  the  ancient  village 
of  Westenport.  The  Cumherland  & Penn- 
sylvania Railway  connects  here. 

We  now  commence  the  ascent  of  the 
Alleghanies.  Passing  up  the  valley  of 
Savage  River,  through  the  Everett  Tunnel, 
past  the  mouth  of  Crabtree  Creek,  where, 
in  military  parlance,  the  road  turns  the 
flank  of  the  Great  Backbone  Mountain, 
we  rea  ch  Altnmont,  in  Alleghany  County. 

Alistmoi&t,  Md.  (223  miles),  is 
2,700  feet  above  the  city  of  Baltimore,  and 
upon  the  extreme  summit  of  the  Al- 
leghanies. It  is  here  that  the  mountain- 


streams  divide,  flowing  in  one  direction 
toward  the  Ohio  River,  the  Mississippi, 
and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  in  the  other 
toward  the  Potomac  River,  the  Chesa- 
peake Bay,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

From  Altamont  westward,  for  a dis- 
tance of  nearly  twenty  miles,  are  beautiful 
natural  meadows  lying  along  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Youghiogheny  (Yo-ho-ga- 
nee)  River,  and  its  numerous  tributaries, 
divided  by  ridges  generally  of  moderate 
elevation  and  gentle  slope,  with  fine  ranges 
of  mountains  in  the  background.  These 
meadows  are  known  as  the  “ Glades.” 

(232  miles),  is  a 
place  of  resort  with  tourists.  It  has  a 
good  hotel. 

The  Great  and  Little  Youghiogheny., 
close  by,  are  famous  trouting  streams,  and 
the  glades  and  oak-clad  hills  in  the  neigh- 
borhood abound  with  game. 

The  erossing  of  the  great  Youghio- 
gheny River  is  by  a viaduct  of  iron — a 
single  arch  of  180  feet  span  resting  on 
stone  abutments.  The  site  of  this  fine 
structure  is  wild,  the  river  running  here 
in  a woody  gorge. 

A few  miles  beyond  Oakland,  the  boun- 
dary-line between  Maryland  and  West 
Virginia  is  crossed. 

Ci*aial>erpy  W.  Va, 

(242  miles).  From  this  point  magnificent 
views  to  the  west  are  to  be  had.  The 
descent  of  11  miles  to  Cheat  River  pre- 
sents a rapid  succession  of  very  heavy 
excavations  and  embankments.  At  one 
point  the  road,  after  skirting  a beautiful 
glade,  enters  a wild-looking  pass  through 
a deep  forest  of  hemlocks  and  laurel-thick- 
ets, the  stream  dashing  over  large  rocks 
and  washing  the  side  of  the  road  but  a 
few  feet  below  its  level.  These  are  known 
as  the  Falls  of  Snowy  Creek.  There  are 
also  two  tunnels,  viz.,  the  McGuire  Tun- 
nel of  600,  and  the  Rodemer  Tunnel  of 
400  feet  in  length,  secured  by  the  most 
durable  arches  of  stone  and  brick.  There 
is  also  a stone  and  iron  viaduct  over  Salt 
Lick  Creek  50  feet  span  and  50  feet  high. 
The  creek  passes  through  a dense  forest 
of  fir-trees  in  its  approach  to  the  river. 

dieat  Kiver  is  a dark,  rapid 
mountain-stream,  whose  waters  are  of  a 
curious  coffee-colored  hue,  owing,  it  is 
said,  to  its  rising  in  forests  of  laurel  and 
black  spruce  on  the  highest  mountain 
67 


Cheat  Kiyeu.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Fetteeman. 


levels  of  that  country.  This  stream  is 
crossed  by  a viaduct  consisting  of  two 
arches,  180  and  130  feet  span,  of  timber 
and  iron,  on  stone  abutments  and  a pier. 

The  name  of  this  river  well  describes 
its  character,  which  is  treacherous  in  the 
extreme.  The  mountains  on  either  side 
are  not  sufficiently  covered  with  soil  to 
absorb  the  rain,  and  consequently  during 
a heavy  mountain-shower  the  river  rises 
very  rapidly.  When  the  rain  ceases  the 
flood  subsides  as  rapidly  as  it  has  risen. 
It  thus  often  happens  that  what  in  the 
morning  seems  to  be  only  a little  stream, 
a few  hours  later  looks  like  a great 
river. 

We  next  ascend  the  Cheat  River  Hill 
and  pass  along  a part  of  the  line  to 
open  which  the  greatest  natural  ob- 
structions had  to  be  met.  The  difficul- 
ties encountered  in  the  four  miles  west 
of  the  crossing  of  the  river  would  seem 
to  be  insuperable.  The  road,  winding  up 
the  slope  of  Laurel  Hill  and  its  spurs, 
with  the  river  on  the  right  hand,  first 
crosses  the  ravine  of  Kyer's  Run^  7 6 feet 
deep,  by  a solid  embankment ; then,  after 
passing  through  a bold  cutting,  and  along 
a steep,  rocky  hill-side,  it  reaches  Buckeye 
Hollow y the  depth  of  which  is  108  feet 
below  the  road-level,  and  400  feet  across 
at  that  level.  Then  there  is  more  side 
cutting  in  the  rock,  and  the  passage  of 
two  or  three  coves  in  the  hill-side,  when 
Vie  come  to  Tray  ’ Run^  and  cross  it,  150 
feet  above  its  original  bed,  by  an  iron 
trestle-work  of  light  and  graceful  con- 
struction, 600  feet  long  at  the  road-level. 

For  several  miles  on  this  part  of  the  line, 
the  road  runs  along  the  steep  mountain- 
side, presenting  a succession  of  land- 
scapes. In  favorable  weather,  day  trains 
stop  ten  minutes  to  allow  travellers  an 
opportunity  to  view  the  viaduct  and  sce- 
nery of  this  part  of  the  line. 

After  passing  these  two  tremendous 
clefts  in  the  mountain-side,  the  road  winds 
along  a precipitous  slope  with  heavy  cut- 
ting, filling,  and  walling,  to  Buckhorn 
Branchy  a wide  and  deep  cove  on  the 
western  flank  of  the  mountain.  This  is 
crossed  by  a solid  embankment  and  re- 
taining wall  90  feet  high  at  its  most  ele- 
vated point.  Some  half  mile  farther, 
after  more  heavy  cuts  and  fills,  the  road 
leaves  the  declivity  of  the  river,  which, 
68 


whore  we  see  it  for  the  last  time,  lies  500 
feet  below  us,  and  turns  westward  through 
a low  gap,  v/hich  admits  it  by  a pretty 
deep  cutting,  followed  soon  by  a deeper 
and  longer  one  through  Cassidy's  JSummit 
Ridge  to  the  table-land  of  the  country 
bordering  Cheat  River  on  the  west.  Here, 
80  miles  from  Cumberland,  we  enter  the 
great  western  coal-fields,  having  passed 
out  of  the  Cumberland  field  35  miles  from 
that  place. 

Descending  from  Cassidy’s  Ridge,  and 
passing  by  a high  embankment  over  the 
Bushy  Fork  of  Pringle's  Run^  the  line 
soon  reaches  the  Kingwood  Tunnel^  the 
longest  finished  tunnel  in  America.  T his 
is  4,100  feet  long.  It  was  constructed  by 
Benjamin  H.  Latrobe.  It  took  five  years 
to  complete  it,  costing  $1,000,000. 

New'feMPg',  W.  Ta,  (266  miles). 
From  Kingwood  Tunnel  to  this  point  the 
line  descends  a steep  hill-side  for  five 
miles  until  it  reaches  the  flats  of  Raccoon 
Creek^  upon  which  the  village  is  situated. 
In  this  distance  it  lies  high  above  the 
valley,  and  crosses  a branch  of  it  with 
an  embankment  100  feet  high.  There 
are  two  other  heavy  fills  farther  on.  Two 
miles  west  of  Kingwood  Tunnel  is  Mur- 
ray's Tunnel^  250  feet  long,  a regular  and 
beautiful  semicircular  arch  cut  out  of  a 
fine  solid  sandstone  rock,  overlying  a 
vein  of  coal  six  feet  thick,  which  is  seen 
on  the  floor  of  the  tunnel. 

From  Newburg,  westward,  the  route 
pursues  the  valleys  of  Raccoon  and  Three 
Forks  Creeks,  which  present  no  features 
of  difficulty,  to  the  Grafton  Station. 

W.  WsA,  (2V9  miles), 
is  vrhere  the  Parkersburg  Division  di- 
verges. It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
Tygart's  Valley  Rlver^  which  is  crossed 
at  this  point  by  a handsome  iron  bridge. 
Here  terminates  the  third  or  mountain 
division  of  the  line.  Grafton  has  a good 
hotel  and  dining-saloon. 

W.  Va.  (281 
miles),  a promising  village,  is  next 
reached.  Here  the  turnpike  to  Marietta 
and  Parkersburg  crosses  the  river.  The 
route  from  Fetterman  to  Fairmont  has  but 
one  very  striking  feature:  the  lygari's 
Valley  River ^ whose  margin  it  follows,  is 
a beautiful  and  winding  stream,  of  gentle 
current,  except  at  the  P'alls^  where  the 
river  descends,  principally  by  three  or 


BALTIMORE  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  X.  [Moundsyille. 


Fairmont.] 

four  vertical  pitches,  some  70  feet  in 
about  a mile.  The  view  in  fine  weather 
is  charming.  A mile  and  a half  above 
Fairmont  the  Tygart’s  Valley  River  and 
the  West  Fork  River  unite  to  form  the 
Monongalida^  the  first  being  the  larger 
of  the  two  confluents. 

A quarter  of  a mile  below  their  junc- 
tion, the  railroad  crosses  the  Mononga- 
hela,  upon  a viaduct  650  feet  long  and  39 
feet  above  low-water  surface.  The  lofty 
and  massive  abutments  of  this  bridge  sup- 
port an  iron  superstructure  of  three  aK*ches 
of  200  feet  span  each.  It  was  five  times 
destroyed  and  rebuilt  during  the  war. 

Faiiriiaoitt,  W.  Va.  (302  miles), 
the  capital  of  Marion  County,  is  at  the 
head  of  navigation  on  the  Monongaliela 
Hiver^  which  is  here  spanned  by  a fine  sus- 
pension bridge  1,000  feet  in  length,  con- 
necting Fairmont  with  the  village  of 
Palatine.  A mile  and  a half  below  Fair- 
mont the  road  leaves  the  valley  of  the 
Monongahela,  and  ascends  the  winding 
and  picturesque  ravine  of  Buffalo  Creek., 
a stream  some  25  miles  in  length.  The 
creek  is  first  crossed  five  miles  west  of 
Fairmont,  again  at  two  points  a short 
distance  apart,  and  again  about  nine  miles 
farther  west. 

(319 

miles),  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Pile's 
Fork  of  the  Buffalo.  There  is  a beauti- 
ful flat  here  on  both  sides  of  the  stream, 
offering  a site  for  a fair-sized  town.  It  is 
surrounded  by  picturesque  hills.  Thence 
to  the  head  of  Pile’s  Fork,  the  road  trav- 
erses at  first  a narrow  and  serpentine 
gorge,  with  five  bridges  at  different 
points,  after  which  it  courses  with  more 
gentle  curvatures  along  a wider  and  rather 
winding  valley,  with  meadow-land  of  one 
or  two  hundred  yards  breadth  on  the  one 
or  the  other  margin.  Numerous  tributaries 
open  out  pretty  vistas  on  either  hand. 
This  part  of  the  valley,  in  its  summer 
dress,  is  singularly  beautiful.  After 
reaching  its  head  at  Glover^ s Gap,  23 
miles  beyond  Fairmont,  the  road  passes 
the  ridge  by  deep  cuts,  and  a tunnel  of 
350  feet  long,  of  curious  shape,  forming 
a sort  of  Moorish  arch  in  its  roof.  From 
this  summit  (which  divides  the  waters  of 
the  Monongahela  from  those  of  the  Ohio) 
the  line  descends  by  Church's  Fork  of 
Fish  Creek — a valley  of  the  same  general 


features  with  the  one  just  passed  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  ridge. 

The  road  now  becomes  winding,  and  in 
the  next  four  miles  we  cross  the  creek 
eight  times.  We  also  pass  Cole's  Tunnel, 
112  feet,  Eaton's  Tunnel,  1 '70  feet,  and 
Marieji's  Tunnel,  180  feet  long. 

fijittletOM,  W.  (332  miles), 

is  a small  village.  Just  beyond  it  is 
Board  Tree  Tunnel,  which  is  40  miles 
east  of  Wheeling.  It  passes  under  a 
great  hill,  originally  crossed  by  the  rail- 
road on  a zigzag  track  with  seven  angles 
representing  seven  V’s. 

Leaving  Board  Tree  Tunnel,  the  line 
descends  along  the  hill-side  of  the  North 
Fork  of  Fish  Creek,  crossing  ravines  and 
spurs  by  deep  fillings  and  cuttings,  and 
reaching  the  level  of  the  flats  bordering 
the  Creek  at  Bell’s  Mill ; soon  after  which 
it  crosses  the  creek  and  ascends  Hart's- 
Run  and  Four-Mile  Run  to  the  Welling 
Tunnel,  50  miles  west  of  Fairmont,  and 
28  from  Wheeling.  This  tunnel  is  1,250 
feet  long,  and  pierces  the  ridge  between 
P'ish  Creek  and  Grave  Creek.  It  is 
through  slate-rock,  like  the  Board  Tree 
Tunnel,  and  is  substantially  arched  with 
brick  and  stone. 

From  the  Welling  Tunnel  the  line  fol- 
lows the  valley  of  Grave  Creek,  1'7  miles 
to  its  mouth  at  the  Flats  of  Grave  Creek 
on  the  Ohio  River,  11  miles  below  V/heel- 
ing.  The  first  five  miles  of  the  ravine  are 
of  gentle  curvature  and  open  aspect,  like 
the  others  already  mentioned.  Afterward  it 
becomes  very  sinuous,  and  the  stream  has 
to  be  bridged  eight  times.  There  are  also 
several  deep  cuts  through  sharp  ridges 
in  the  bends  of  the  creek,  and  one  tunnel 
400  feet  long  at  Sheppard's,  19  miles  from 
Wheeling. 

(368 

miles),  is  one  of  the  two  villages  at  the 
point  where  Big  and  Little  Grave  Creeks 
enter  the  Ohio  River,  the  other  being 
Elizabethtown.  The  approach  to  the  Ohio 
at  this  point  is  very  beautiful.  The  line, 
emerging  from  the  defile  of  Grave  Creek, 
passes  straight  over  the  “ flats  ” which 
border  the  river,  and  forming  a vast  roll- 
ing plain,  in  the  middle  of  which  looms 
up  the  “great  Indian  mound,”  80  feet 
high  and  200  feet  broad  at  its  base.  It 
is  between  the  two  villages.  The  “ flats  ” 
embrace  an  area  of  some  4,000  acres, 
69 


Benwood.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Parrersburo. 


about  three-fourths  of  which  lies  on  the 
Virginia,  and  the  remaining  fourth  on 
the  Ohio  side  of  the  river.  The  soil  is 
fertile  and  well  cultivated. 

About  three  miles  up  the  river  from 
Moundsville,  the  “ flats  ” terminate,  and 
the  road  passes  for  a mile  along  rocky 
narrows  washed  by  the  river,  after  which 
it  runs  over  wide,  rich,  and  beautiful  bot- 
tom-lands, all  the  way  to  Wheeling. 

W.  Va.  (B'ZS  miles), 
is  the  last  station  in  West  Virginia,  and 
here  connections  are  made  by  ferry  with 
the  Central  Ohio  Division. 

IBellair,  €>.  (S'ZG  miles),  is  the  first 
station  on  this  line  in  the  State. 

Helmoiat,  €>.  (394  miles),  is  in 
the  midst  of  a well-watered,  fertile,  and 
hilly  country.  There  are  rich  coal-mines 
in  the  vicinity. 

CJa2ia.I>2*id.ge9  (428  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Guernsey  County,  and  con- 
tains the  county  buildings.  Coal  is 
found  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity. 

-Sasaesville,  (454  miles),  the 
capital  of  Muskingum  County,  is  a thriv- 
ing and  beautiful  city  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Muskingum  River^  which  flows 
through  a fertile  and  productive  country, 
and  is  navigable  to  this  point.  The  city  is 
regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  are  wide, 
well-shaded  and  adorned  by  many  hand- 
some buildings.  The  river  affords  a fine 
water-power,  and,  as  there  are  extensive 
coal-fields  in  the  neighborhood,  Zanesville 
has  great  advantages  as  a manufacturing 
place.  It  is  supplied  with  water  from 
the  river,  the  distribution  being  effected 
through  pipes  from  a reservoir  which 
holds  2,000,000  gallons.  Besides  the 
usual  public  schools,  there  is  here  a free 
school  richly  endowed  by  John  McIntyre, 
one  of  the  early  settlers  of  the  place. 
The  railroad  bridge  across  the  river  is  of 
iron.  It  is  538  feet  long.  The  Cincin- 
nati 6s  Muskingum  Valley  Railway  con- 
nects here.  Population,  10,011. 

Newarlc,  O.  (480  miles),  con- 
nects with  Lake  Erie  Division  and  with 
Pittsburg^  Cincinnati  6s  St.  Louis  Railway. 
{See  page  26.) 

The  other  stations,  as  far  as  Cincinnati, 
have  already  been  described.  {See  pages 
26  to  41.) 


II  O UTE  XI. 

BALTIMORE  TO  BT.  LOTUS. 

Via  Baltimore  <&,  Ohio^  Marietta  Cincin- 

nat%  and  Ohio  <&  Mississippi  Railways. 

{Time^  44  hrs.—Fare^  $24.) 

As  far  as  Grafton,  2Y9  miles  from 
Baltimore  on  the  main  line,  this  route  has 
been  fully  described  in  Route  X.  At 
Grafton  the  traveller  takes  the  Parkers- 
burg Division,  upon  which  are  the  fol- 
lowing 

Stations  : — Grafton,  279  miles  from 
Baltimore;  Webster,  283  ; Simpson’s, 
287  ; Elemington,  289  ; Bridgeport,  296  ; 
Clarksburg,  301  ; Wilsonburg,  305  ; 
Cherry  Camp,  313  ; Salem,  315 ; Long 
Run,  320;  Smithton,  325 ; West  Union, 
329 ; Central,  331 ; Pennsboro’,  341  ; 
Ellenboro’,  346  ; Cornwallis,  351  ; Cairo, 
354 ; Petroleum,  361 ; L.  F.  Junction, 
363  ; Eaton’s,  364 ; Walker’s,  368 ; 
Kanawha,  373;  Claysville,  376 ; Parkers- 
burg (connects  with  Marietta  k Cincin- 
nati Railway),  383. 

^ralYoML,  IIV.  Va.  (279  miles). 
{See  page  68.)  From  Grafton  to  the 
Ohio  River  the  road  passes  through  a 
well-wooded  country,  rich  in  coal  and 
petroleum.  Aside  from,  this,  it  is  very 
rough  and  unproductive,  and  without  in- 
terest to  the  tourist.  For  the  most  part, 
the  villages  are  small  and  unimportant. 

Ciaricsijai-g,  W.  Va.  (301 
miles),  the  first  station  of  any  conse- 
quence, is  the  capital  of  Harrison  County. 
It  is  situated  on  a high  table-land  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Monongahela  River ^ and 
is  surrounded  by  hills.  There  are  valu- 
able mines  of  bituminous  coal  in  the 
vicinity. 

E^etroleaiia,  W.  '’^a.  (361 

miles),  is  the  centre  of  the  rich  oil-regions 
of  West  Virginia. 

Claysville,  Wo  Va.  (376  miles), 
is  situated  on  the  Little  Kanawha  River, 
It  has  a fine  water-power,  and  several 
mills. 

]Pai-3£ersl>iii*g’,  W.  '^a,  (383 
miles),  the  capital  of  Wood  County,  is 
situated  upon  the  Ohio  River  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Little  Kanawha.  It  is  a 
pleasant  place  and  is  neatly  built.  Petro- 
leum is  abundant  in  the  vicinity. 

On  January  9, 1871,  a bridge  across  the 
Ohio  to  Belpre  was  opened  to  the  public. 


70 


Stations.] 


BALTIMORE  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  ROUTE  XL  [Blanchester. 


The  first  stone  was  laid  in  July,  1869, 
and  the  whole  structure  completed  on 
January  V,  IS'Zl.  It  is  said  that  no  work 
of  similar  magnitude  has  ever  been  con- 
structed in  this  country  in  such  a brief 
period.  Some  idea  of  the  labor  and  ex- 
pense incurred  in  bridging  the  river  at 
this  point  may  be  formed  from  the  fol- 
lowing statistics : The  total  length  is  one 
mile  and  1,762  feet ; the  two  main  chan- 
nel spans  are  each  350  feet,  and  are  90 
feet  above  low-water  mark ; there  are  four 
river  spans,  210  feet  in  length.  In  addi- 
tion, on  the  Ohio  side,  there  are  five 
spans  of  120  feet  each  ; two  of  126  feet, 
and  two  “ approach  ” spans  of  55  feet ; 
while  on  the  Virginia  side,  there  are  eight 
spans  of  100  feet ; twelve  of  59  feet ; 
three  of  62  feet,  and  eleven  smaller  ones 
averaging  from  25  to  30  feet. 

The  bridge  is  approached  on  the  Ohio 
side  by  an  embankment  more  than  a mile 
long,  in  the  formation  of  which  every 
precaution  has  been  taken  to  guard 
against  the  occurrence  of  slides  or  wash- 
ing, to  which  work  of  this  character  is 
more  or  less  subject.  The  total  cost  of 
this  bridge  and  approaches  exceeds  a 
million  dollars. 

Marietta  & Cincinnati  Railway  Sta- 
tions.— Belpre,  384  miles  from  Baltimore ; 
Scott’s  Landing,  393 ; Vincent’s,  403 ; 
Gutter,  410 ; New  England,  419  ; War- 
ren’s, 423  ; Athens,  429 ; Marshfield,  436  ; 
Zaleski,  449  ; Hamden  (Junction  of  Ports- 
mouth Branch),  460  ; Raysville,  471  ; 
Londonderry,  478  ; Schooley’s,  483 ; 
Chillicothe  (crosses  Ohio  Canal),  490 ; 
Frankfort,  503 ; Greenfield,  514  ; Mon- 
roe, 520  ; Lexington,  526  ; Vienna,  531  ; 
Martinsville,  538 ; Blanchester  (Hills- 
borough Branch  diverges),  547 ; Spence’s, 
557 ; Loveland  (connects  with  Little 
Miami  Railway),  563  ; Montgomery,  568  ; 
Madisonville,  574 ; Cincinnati,  Hamilton 
& Dayton  Junction,  581 ; Cincinnati,  589. 

12el]pr4,  ©.  (384  miles),  on  the 
Ohio  River ^ the  first  station  in  Ohio,  is 
only  a small  place. 

Atlaesis,  O.  (429  miles),  the  capital 
of  Athens  County,  is  pleasantly  situated 
upon  the  Hocking  River.  The  Ohio 
University^  founded  in  1804,  the  oldest 
college  in  the  State,  is  located  here,  as 
also  is  one  of  the  State  Lunatic  Asylums. 
The  Hocking  Valley  Railway  affords  direct 


railway  communication  with  Columbus. 
In  the  neighborhood  are  several  Indian 
mounds  similar  to  the  one  at  Mounds- 
ville. 

Msaisiilesa,  O.  (460  miles),  is  the 
junction  of  the  branch  road  to  Ports- 
mouth on  the  Ohio,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Scioto  River. 

(490  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Ross  County,  and  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Scioto  River in  the  midst  of  a very  fertile 
and  productive  region.  It  has  a large 
trade,  being  the  commercial  centre  of 
this  section  of  the  State,  and  has  the 
advantage,  not  only  of  railway  connec- 
tions, but  also  of  being  upon  the  Ohio  tSo 
Erie  Canal. 

The  city  is  built  upon  a plateau, 
through  which  flows  the  beautiful  Scioto., 
and  is  surrounded  by  high  hills.  It  is 
regularly  laid  out  v/ith  broad,  pleasant 
streets,  and  has  many  handsome  build- 
ings, embracing  churches,  school-houses, 
and  a stone  court-house  which  cost  over 
$100,000. 

Chillicothe  is  a very  old  place,  having 
been  founded  in  1796.  It  was  from  1800 
to  1810  the  capital  of  the  State.  After- 
ward the  seat  of  government  was  removed 
to  Zanesville,  and  subsequently  to  Co- 
lumbus. Chillicothe  does  not  owe  all  its 
prosperity  to  its  commercial  importance, 
but,  being  the  seat  of  several  manufac- 
tories, and  being  within  easy  access  of 
the  coal  and  iron  regions  of  Ohio,  by 
means  of  the  Marietta  & Cincinnati  Rail- 
way, it  is  a good  place  for  the  investment 
of  capital. 

O.  (503  miles),  is  a 
growing  village,  situated  in  a rich  and 
populous  farming  region. 

(514  miles),  has 
an  active  trade,  the  country  in  the  vicinity 
being  rich  and  highly  cultivated ; in  fact, 
one  travelling  through  this  part  of  the 
State  cannot  but  be  struck  with  the 
beauty  of  the  villages,  the  fertility  of  the 
land,  and  the  high  state  of  cultivation  to 
which  it  has  been  brought. 

BLiexiiag’tosa,  4>.  (526  miles),  on  the 
Clear  Fork  of  Mohiccan  River,  is  a flour- 
ishing milling  village. 

IBlanclaesteir,  O.  (547  miles),  is 
the  point  whore  the  road  branches  to 
Hillsborough,  a distance  of  21  miles. 

71 


Loveland.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stehlino. 


(563  miles),  is  tlio 

crossmg  of  the  lAiile  Miami  Railway, 

(589  miles).  (Nee 
page  31.)  From  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis 
the  road  has  already  been  described. 
(Nee  page  59.) 

M<j>.  (By  this  Route 
9'73  miles  from  Baltimore.)  (Nee  page 
46.) 

no  UTB  XII. 

R'E^V  YORK  TO  OMAHA,  KEBRASKA, 

Via  Chicago  <&  NorthicesUrn  Railway.  ( Time, 
54  hrs.—Fare,  $42.) 

Stations. — Chicago — Harlem,  9 miles 
from  Chicago ; Cottage  Hill,  16 ; Wheaton, 
25;  Junction,  30;  Geneva,  36;  Black- 
berry, 44 ; Lodi,  61 ; Cortland,  55  ; De- 
Kalb,  58  ; Malta,  64  ; Creston,  70 ; Ro- 
chelle, 75;  Ashton,  84;  Franklin,  88; 
Dixon  (connects  with  Main  Line  of  Illi- 
nois Central  Railway),  98  ; Sterling  (con- 
nects with  Rockford,  Rock  Island  k St. 
Louis  Railway),  110;  Morrison,  124; 
I'ulton,  136;  Clinton,  138;  Camanche, 
143  ; Low  Moor,  148  ; Malone,  152  ; De 
Witt,  157  ; Calamus,  169  ; Wheatland, 
173  ; Loudon,  178  ; Clarence,  185  ; Stan- 
wood,  190;  Lisbon,  202;  Bertram,  210; 
Cedar  Rapids  (connects  with  Dubuque 
Southwestera,  and  Burlington,  Cedar  Rap- 
ids k Minnesota  Railways),  219  ; Fairfax, 
228 ; Blairstown,  244 ; Belle  Plains,  254 ; 
Tama,  270  ; Legrand,  280  ; Marshall 
(connects  with  Central  Railway  of  Iowa), 
289  ; State  Centre,  303  ; Nevada,  318  ; 
Boone,  340 ; Beaver,  357  ; Grand  Junc- 
tion (connects  with  Dcs  Moines  Valley 
Railway),  864;  New  Jefferson,  370;  Glid- 
den,  388  ; Carroll,  396  ; West  Side,  409  ; 
Denison,  424  ; Dunlap,  441 ; Missouri  Val- 
ley Junction  (connects  with  Sioux  City 
k Pacific  Railway),  467  ; Crescent,  482  ; 
Council  Bluffs,  488 ; Missouri  Railway 
(crosses  on  bridge  to  Omaha,  there  con- 
necting with  Union  Pacific  Railway),  491. 

From  New  York  to  Chicago  take  either 
of  the  three  Routes  first  named  in  this 
book. 

511.  {See  page  6.) 

From  Chicago  to  Omaha  this  line  of 
road  passes  through  a country  which,  with 
the  exception  of  a few  inhabited  points 
along  the  navigable  rivers,  twenty  years 
ago,  was  one  vast  prairie  traversed  only 
72 


by  the  Indian,  the  trapper,  and  the  wild 
game  which  then  abounded,  but  which 
is  now  fast  disappearing  before  the  on- 
ward march  of  civilization.  Many  of  the 
villages  and  cities  along  the  road  are 
thriving  and  attractive,  but  are  as  yet 
too  young  to  possess  the  public  con- 
veniences and  advantages  one  looks  for 
in  places  of  more  gradual  development. 
There  are  some,  however,  whose  rapid 
growth  has  already  placed  them  on  an 
equality  with  their  older  sisters  of  the 
Eastern  States.  With  the  rapid  increase 
of  the  lines  of  railway,  and  the  conse- 
quent settlement  of  the  rich  land  thrown 
open  to  market,  the  landscape  loses  much 
of  its  distinctive  character ; and,  though 
the  peculiar  nature  of  the  country  now 
level  as  a floor,  and  now  rolling  like  the 
waves  of  the  ocean,  still  remains,  it  is  no 
longer  a treeless,  boundless  expanse  of 
waving  grass  and  variegated  flowers. 
Orchards  have  been  planted,  groves  of 
forest-trees  are  springing  from  the  prairie, 
and  the  view  in  many  places  reminds  one 
of  the  garden  regions  of  the  Eastern 
States. 

IIS.  (30  miles),  is  the 
point  of  divergence  of  the  Galena  Divis^ 
ion  of  this  road. 

Cwciaevsi,  Its.  (36  miles),  is  a pros- 
perous place,  situated  on  the  Fox  River, 
which  furnishes  a fine  water-power.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Kane  County,  and  has 
many  business  advantages. 

BiSxoia,  111.  (98  miles),  the  capital 
of  Lee  County,  is  at  the  junction  of  the 
main  line  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway. 
It  is  situated  on  Rock  River,  which,  being 
dammed  at  this  point,  furnishes  a fine 
water-power  for  the  mills,  that  are  one 
of  the  sources  of  the  prosperity  of  the 
place.  A United  States  land-ofiice  is 
located  at  Dixon.  From  Dixon  to  Ster- 
ling the  road  runs  parallel  to  and  north 
of  Rock  River,  which  a sljort  distance 
beyond  the  latter  point  diverges  to  the 
south. 

IIS.  (110  miles),  is  beau- 
tifully situated  on  the  north  bank  of  Rock 
River,  which  here,  naturally  affording  a 
fine  water-power,  has  been  improved  by 
a stone  dam  supplying  several  mills, 
founderies,  and  machine-shops.  This  is  an 
important  point  for  the  shipment  of  grain 
and  produce,  and  is  the  junction  of  tho 


Fulton.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XIL 


[Boone. 


Rockford^  Rock  Island  & St.  Louis  Rail 
way. 

IIS.  (136  miles),  the  last 
station  in  the  State,  stands  upon  the 
eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
which  is  here  crossed  by  a splendid 
bridge.  It  is  built  of  iron,  is  4,100  feet 
long,  and  cost  $600,000.  The  draw  is 
300  feet  long.  It  revolves  on  its  own 
centre,  uncovering  two  spans  of  120  feet 
each,  through  which  passes  the  main 
channel  of  the  river.  It  is  worked  by  a 
steam-engine  of  25  horse-power,  perched 
on  a framework  elevated  over  the  track 
sufficiently  high  to  permit  the  cars  to 
pass  beneath  it.  The  Illinois  end  of  the 
bridge  passes  over  a flat,  or  bottom, 
then  crosses  a shallow  channel  to  an 
island,  which,  being  thickly  covered 
with  trees,  and  at  the  time  of  high  water 
usually  submerged,  presents  a picturesque 
appearance,  as  the  woods,  without  any 
apparent  support,  seem  to  float  in  an 
erect  position  on  the  surface  of  the 
stream.  After  crossing  the  island  the 
main  channel  of  the  river  is  reached, 
spanned  by  the  large  draw  just  described. 
From  this  draw,  looking  up  the  river, 
there  is  a fine  view  taking  in  three  towns. 
On  the  Illinois  bank,  some  two  miles 
above  the  bridge,  stands  Fulton,  its  huge 
elevator  being  one  of  the  most  prominent 
objects  seen.  Directly  opposite,  on  the 
Iowa  side,  is  Lyons,  and  at  the  western 
end  of -the  bridge  stands  Clinton. 

Ciiiatosi,  I©.  (138  miles),  is 

pleasantly  situated  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  Mississippi.  It  contains  the  loco- 
motive repair-shops  of  this  division  of 
the  road,  and  is  one  of  the  stations  for 
the  change  of  engines  on  through-trains. 
It  is  the  site  of  a large  number  of  saw- 
mills, and  is  one  of  the  leading  lumbering- 
places  on  the  river.  One  of  the  saw-mills 
here  has  facilities  for  sawing  200,000  feet 
of  lumber  a day.  It  is  well  worth  visit- 
ing. 

CJaimaiaclie,  lo.  (143  miles),  is 
a small  village  which  was  the  scene  of 
one  of  those  terrible  tornadoes  which 
sometimes  sweep  away  an  entire  town  on 
these  Western  prairies.  The  storm  to 
which  reference  is  here  made  was  one  of 
exceptional  violence,  and  played  more 
curious  and  apparently  incredible  freaks 
than  are  usual  even  among  these  eccentric 


breezes — among  the  most  wonderful  of 
which  is,  that  a horse  was  taken  up,  car- 
ried across  the  Mississippi,  and  landed 
unhurt,  nearly  three  miles  from  home  ! 
This  is  vouched  for  as  being  absolutely 
true  by  residents  of  the  place,  but  seems 
rather  exaggerated. 

From  Clinton  to  Cedar  Rapids  the  road 
passes  through  a rolling  prairie,  dotted 
with  a succession  of  young  and  thriving 
towns,  and  is  relieved  from  monotony  by 
numerous  groups  of  trees,  the  whole  ap- 
pearing like  an  immense  farm  in  some 
old  country  where  a small  quantity  of 
timber  has  been  judiciously  allowed  to 
remain;  indeed,  it  seems  sometimes  im- 
possible to  realize  that  never  in  the  mem- 
ory of  man,  or  even  in  the  traditions  of 
the  Indians,  have  trees  been  known  upon 
these  grassy  knolls. 

H-apids,  S©.  (219  miles), 
on  the  Red  Cedar  River^  is  already  a 
place  of  importance,  and  is  destined  to 
become  a flourishing  city.  The  Dubuque^ 
Southwestern^  and  the  Burlington^  Cedar 
Rapids  dj  Minnesota  Railways  connect 
here,  making  it  a railway  centre.  Other 
roads  to  this  point  are  now  constructing. 

Maa-sliall,  So.  (289  miles).  Con- 
nections are  made  with  the  Central  Rail 
way  of  Iowa. 

ISooMC,  So.  (340  miles),  was 
founded  in  1865,  and  even  now  (1871)  is 
an  important  and  rapidly-growing  place. 
Its  inhabitants  have  two  characteristics 
necessary  to  the  building  up  of  a large 
town — a commendable  degree  of  enter- 
prise, and  an  idea  that  the  State  of  Iowa 
contains  no  other  town  besides  that  of 
Boone.  The  country  round  about  it  is 
fertile  and  productive. 

The  whole  country  is  here  underlaid  by 
coal,  and  at  this  point  much  of  the  coal 
used  upon  the  Iowa  Division  of  the  Chi- 
cago & Northwestern  Railway  is  pro- 
cured. 

Steadily  journeying  westward  from 
Boone,  the  tourist  passes  through  the 
valley  of  the  Res  Moines.  The  country 
is  well  wooded  and  rugged,  being  more 
like  that  of  the  Eastern  States  than  any 
of  the  route  between  Chicago  and  the 
Mssouri  River. 

The  approaches  on  either  side  of  the 
river  are  of  the  wildest  character,  and 
demand  the  heaviest  grading  from  the 
73 


Tip-Top.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Council  BLurpa 


railroad  which  crosses  it.  In  some  sec- 
tions the  grade  of  the  track  is  not  less 
than  80  feet  to  the  mile,  while  the  lowest 
degree  of  inclination  marks  an  ascent  of 
63  feet  in  the  same  distance.  It  is  not 
unlike,  in  many  respects,  the  wild,  grand 
scenery  which  has  made  famous  the  Del- 
aware Division  of  the  Erie  road,  save  that, 
in  place  of  the  broad  river  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills,  there  are  swift-running  moun- 
tain streams  in  the  wet  season,  and  dry 
gulches  in  a time  of  drought.  In  this  sec- 
tion coal  of  excellent  quality  abounds, 
and  upon  either  side  of  the  road  are  to 
be  seen  the  works  over  the  shafts  and  the 
begrimed  faces  of  the  miners  who  delve 
day  after  day  beneath  the  surface.  The 
Des  Moines  River  is  spanned  by  a fine 
bridge  which  bears  the  train  in  safety 
over  the  stream  at  a dizzy  height  above 
the  water  below. 

For  many  miles  after  leaving  the  valley 
the  road  passes  over  a superb  prairie, 
which,  except  for  the  villages  which 
have  sprung  up  around  the  few  stations 
since  1866,  remains  in  its  primitive  con- 
dition. 

Tlp-T'op,  lo*  (405  miles),  is  the 
highest  point  in  the  State,  being  870 
feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Midiigan. 
In  spring  and  summer  the  surrounding 
prairie  is  rich  in  long  grass,  and  beauti- 
ful flowers ; but  in  the  winter  snow-drifts 
20  feet  in  depth  are  not  uncommon.  At 
this  point  two  streams  take  their  rise 
from  springs.  The  one.  Storm  Creel\ 
flows  to  the  east,  its  waters  eventually 
finding  their  way  to  the  Mississippi.  The 
other,  the  Boyer^  runs  to  the  west,  and 
empties  into  the  Missouri,  not  far  from 
Council  Bluffs. 

E^enisoM,  So,  (424  miles),  is  a 
promising  young  town. 

At  this  point  we  enter  upon  the  Boyer 
Valley,  which  varies  from  two  to  four 
miles  in  width,  and  is  a flat  bottom 
between  two  rows  of  hills.  The  scenery 
of  this  valley,  in  contrast  to  that  of  the 
prairie,  is  very  pleasing. 

lo.  (441  miles),  is  a 
growing  town.  The  company  has  an 
engine-house  here,  and  there  is  a fair 
hotel. 

Missouri  'W'jailey  •SMiactiom 
(467  miles)  is  the  junction  of  the  Sioux 
City  & Pacific  Railway. 

74 


The  descent  into  the  Missouri  Valley 
commences  here,  and  we  have  a full  view 
of  the  “ bluffs  ” for  the  first  time.  The 
road,  taking  a southwesterly  course,  al- 
most skirts  those  on  the  Iowa  side,  while 
those  of  Nebraska  loom  up  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  broad  river-bottom. 

Council  Bo.  (488 

miles),  is  the  capital  of  Pottawattoraie 
County,  Iowa,  and  is  situated  in  the  Mis- 
souri iSottora,  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs, 
which  here  are  high  and  very  precipi- 
tous. The  river  seems  to  vibrate  between 
the  bluffs,  eating  the  earth  away  from 
the  one  side  and  depositing  it  on  the 
other,  so  that  this  city,  which  was,  when 
first  settled,  upon  the  river’s  edge,  is 
now  some  three  miles  away  from  it.  This 
gives  it  plenty  of  room  to  extend  its 
limits,  and  it  is  probable  that,  however  it 
may  increase  in  population,  there  will  al- 
ways be  room  for  manufactories,  jobbing- 
houses  and  similar  establishments,  while 
upon  the  bluffs,  at  no  distant  day,  will 
be  clustered  the  residences,  elegant 
churches,  pleasure-grounds,  and  other  ac- 
cessories, of  the  home  portion  of  a large 
city.  The  views  from  these  bluffs  are 
very  beautiful.  In  1804  Clark  and  Lewis 
held  a council  here  with  the  Indians,  and 
gave  it  its  name.  The  streets  cross 
each  other  at  right  angles,  one  set  run- 
ning from  the  river  to  the  bluffs,  which 
stay  their  farther  progress  in  that  direc- 
tion. There  is  an  expensive  CourUHouse 
at  this  place,  and  the  State  Institute 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb^  now  building, 
will  be  an  ornament  to  the  city.  The 
great  bridge  across  the  Missouri  at  this 
point  being  finished,  Council  Bluffs  and 
Omaha  are  practically  one  city,  though 
at  present  there  is  fierce  rivalry  between 
the  two. 

The  following  railways  now  centre  at 
Council  Bluffs,  connecting  by  bridge  with 
the  Pacific  Railway  at  Omaha : Chicago 
& Northwestern;  Chicago^  Rock  Island 
<&  Pacific  ; Burlington  & Missouri  River  ; 
and  Kansas  City^  St.  Joseph  Council 
Bluffs. 


Chicago.]  NEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XIII.  [Ottawa. 


M O UTE  XIII. 

NEW  YORK  TO  03IAUA, 

Via  any  Ronte  to  Chicago^  thence  l>y  Chicago^ 
Rock  Island  dt  Pacific  Railway,  {Time^  b9 
hrs.—Eare,  $42.) 

Stations.  — Chicago  — Englewood,  7 
miles  from  Chicago ; Blue  Island,  16 ; 
Bremen,  24 ; Mokena,  30 ; Joliet  (con- 
nects with  Chicago  & Alton  Railway,  and 
Joliet  Branch  of  Michigan  Central  Rail- 
way), 40 ; Minooka,  51 ; Morris,  61 ; 
Seneca,  '71  ; Marseilles,  '76;  Ottawa,  84; 
Utica,  94  ; La  Salle  (connects  with  Illinois 
Central  Railway,  and  steamer  to  St. 
Louis),  99 ; Peru,  100 ; Bureau  (con- 
nects with  Branch  to  Peoria),  114; 
Tiskilwa,  122;  Pond  Creek  (connects 
with  Chicago,  Burlington  & Quincy  Rail- 
way), 128  : Sheffield,  136  ; Atkinson,  152  ; 
Geneseo,  159;  Colona,  1'70;  Moline,  179; 
Rock  Island  (connects  with  Western 
Union  Railway,  and  bridge  over  the  Mis- 
sissippi River,  connecting  Illinois  with 
Iowa  Division  ; also  with  steamers  on  the 
Mississippi  River),  182;  Davenport,  183; 
Walcott,  195;  Fulton,  199;  Wilton  (con- 
nects with  Branch  for  Muscatine,  Wash- 
ington, etc.),  208  ; Moscow,  211 ; Atalissa, 
216;  West  Liberty,  221;  Iowa  City, 
237  ; Oxford,  252  ; Homestead,  25'7  ; 
Marengo  (connects  with  stage  for  Blairs- 
town),  267 ; Victor,  279  ; Brooklyn,  287 ; 
Malcolm,  293 ; Grinnell,  302  ; Kellogg, 
313  ; Newton,  322  ; Colfax,  334;  Mitchell- 
ville,  340;  Des  Moines  (connects-  with 
Des  Moines  Valley  Railway),  357;  Boone, 
372  ; De  Soto  (connects  with  stage  lines), 
379 ; Dexter  (connects  with  stage  lines), 
392  ; Casey,  408 ; Anita,  422  ; Atlantic, 
436  ; Avoca,  455  ; Shelby,  463  ; Neola, 
474  ; Council  Bluffs  (connects  with  Union 
Pacific  Railway,  and  with  steamers  on 
the  Missouri  Rh  er),  490;  Missouri  River, 
493. 

ISl.  {See  page  6.) 

From  Chicago  to  Joliet^  the  road  passes 
over  a portion  of  the  rich  prairie-lands 
of  Illinois.  The  villages  along  the  line 
are  prosperous  little  places,  deriving 
their  support  from  the  neighboring  farms, 
but  possess  no  general  interest.  The 
scenery  is  monotonous,  and  since  the  set- 
tlement of  the  country  has  lost  the  dis- 
tinctive prairie  character  which  is  now 
only  seen  to  perfection  in  the  western 


part  of  Iowa,  and  on  the  plains  west  of 
the  Missouri. 

cJ^oSlet,  111.  (40  miles),  is  the 
county-seat  of  Will  County,  and  is  one  of 
the  principal  places  in  the  State.  The 
population  in  1870  was  7,266.  The  city 
is  situated  on  the  Des  Moines  Diver,, 
which  affords  a good  water-power,  and 
is  connected  with  Chicago  by  canal  as 
well  as  by  railway.  It  is  handsomely 
built,  many  of  the  buildings  being  of  a 
good  quality  of  gray  limestone.  The 
State  penitentiary  here  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  United  States.  Here,  also,  is 
one  of  the  most  extensive  stone  quarries 
of  the  Northwest,  of  gray  limestone  in 
layers  varying  from  two  inches  to  two  or 
three  feet  in  thickness,  and  of  which 
some  of  the  finest  commercial  and  public 
buildings  of  Chicago  were  built,  includ- 
ing that  vast  structure  the  Chicago,  Rock 
Island  & Pacific,  and  Michigan  Southern 
Railway  Depot,  at  Chicago;  the  super- 
structure of  the  Illinois  State  Capitol 
(now  building),  the  extensive  U.  S. 
Armory  and  Arsenal  buildings  on  Rock 
Island,  and  many  other  imposing  edifices 
through  the  Northwest.  Thousands  of 
men  are  employed  in  these  quarries  every 
summer. 

Joliet  is  a very  prosperous  place,  and 
is  the  commercial  centre  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  It  also  has  some  importance 
as  a milling  and  manufacturing  place. 
The  Chicago  cfi  Alton  Dailway  and  the 
Joliet  Branch  of  the  Michigan  Central 
Railway  connect  here. 

MorriSj  S1I«  (61  miles),  is  a thriving 
post-village,  on  the  Illinois  d'  Michigan 
Canal.  It  is  the  capital  and  principal 
shipping-point  of  Grundy  County.  Mor- 
ris has  a bank,  several  churches,  and  a 
newspaper  office.  Population  in  1865, 
about  4,000;  in  1870,  about  6,000. 

Ottawa,  Hi.  (84  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  La  Salle  County,  is  a flourishing  city, 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Illinois  River , 
just  below  the  mouth  of  Fox  River.  The 
Rlinois  et  Michigan  Canal  connects  it 
with  Chicago.  Ottawa  contains  several 
churches,  banks,  and  a number  of  large 
public  school-houses.  The  city  is  lighted 
with  gas.  There  are  eight  large  steam 
elevators  here.  The  Fox  River,,  at  this 
place,  has  a fall  of  about  29  feet,  produ- 
cing an  extensive  water-power.  Among  the 
75 


Bureau.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Rock  Island. 


manufactories  are  one  large  corn-starch 
mill,  four  manufactories  of  reapers,  and 
four  flouring-mills.  Rich  beds  of  coal 
are  found  in  the  vicinity.  The  Supreme 
Court  for  the  north  division  of  the  State 
is  held  here.  Population  in  1865,  about 
6,547  ; in  1870,  7,752. 

Sja;  Salle  (99  miles'  is  a very  flour- 
ishing manufacturing  town  on  the  Illinois 
River,  at  the  terminus  of  the  Illinois  Ca- 
nal, 100  miles  long,  which  connects  it  with 
Chicago.  It  is  the  centre  of  extensive  coal- 
mines in  the  vicinity.  It  connects  with 
the  Illinois  Central  Railway  and  steamer 
to  St.  Louis.  Population  about  7,000. 

ISiareaM,  111,  (114  miles),  is  a 
post-village  at  the  junction  of  the  Feoria 
Branch  Railway. 

Creelf,  lit.  (128  miles),  is 
the  intersection  of  the  Chicago^  Burling- 
ton <&  Quincy  Railway. 

^eaesco.  111.  (159  miles),  the  larg- 
est place  in  Henry  County,  is  situated  in 
the  heart  of  one  of  the  most  thrifty  and 
best  agricultural  districts  in  the  State. 
It  has  a populaiiion  of  about  3,000. 

Moline,  111.  (179  miles),  is  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River.,  three 
miles  above  Rock  Island,  with  which  it  is 
connected  by  a horse-railway.  Here  is  the 
most  extensive  water-power  in  the  North- 
west. Moline  was  first  settled  in  1832, 
by  Joel  Wells.  It  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  island  of  Rock  Island,  and  divided 
therefrom  by  what  is  known  as  the 
“Slough,”  a swift-running  stream  that 
cuts  off  Rock  Island  from  the  main-land 
of  the  Illinois  shore.  The  fall  is  about 
eight  feet.  Its  improvement  was  com- 
menced in  1841,  and  carried  on  by 
different  interests  until  1863,  when  it 
was  bought  by  the  U.  S.  Government, 
and  permanent  improvement  commenced. 
It  is  expected  that  it  will  be  finished 
this  year,  when  it  will  equal  about 
7,500  horse-power.  The  pools  within  its 
walls,  dikes,  and  shore-lines,  have  a ca- 
pacity of  100,000,000  cubic  feet  of  water, 
which  is  nearly  eq,ual  to  the  combined 
water-power  of  all  New  England,  Its 
manufactories  are  quite  extensive,  among 
them  being  two  of  the  largest  steel 
plough  and  cultivator  factories  in  the 
United  States,  There  are  also  an  exten- 
Kive  paper-mill,  woollenJactory,  tub  and 
bucket  factory,  wagon-factories,  found- 
76 


cries,  machine-shops,  flour-mills,  etc, 
Moline  is  surrounded  by  the  most  delight- 
ful scenery  on  ail  sides.  Population  in 
1870,  5,763. 

Moclc  City,  Sll.  (182 

miles),  the  capital  of  Rock  Island  County, 
is  on  the  Mississippi  River,  2 miles  above 
the  mouth  of  Rock  River.  It  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  the  Upper  Rapids^  which  ex- 
tend nearly  1 5 miles,  and  in  low  stages  of 
water  obstruct  the  passage  of  loaded  ves- 
sels. The  place  derives  its  name  from  an 
island  3 miles  in  length,  the  south  extrem- 
ity of  which  is  nearly  opposite  the  town. 
The  main  and  navigable  channel  is  on 
the  west  side  of  the  island,  v/hile  that 
on  the  east  has  been  dammed  at  Moline, 
so  as  to  produce  the  immense  water-power 
already  alluded  to,  and  a good  harbor  be- 
low. It  has  10  churches,  and  a large 
union  school-house ; but  it  is  remarkable 
for  its  flourishing  manufactures,  among 
which  are  a paper-mill  and  a plough-fac- 
tory. Stoves,  carpets,  and  glass,  are  also 
manufactured  here,  and  there  is  a large 
distillery.  The  population  in  1870  was 
7,899. 

'File  Island  ©Jf  ISocIa  Island, 
lying  between  Rock  Island  and  Moline  on 
the  east,  and  Davenport  on  the  west,  is 
the  largest  of  the  Mississippi  River  islands. 
It  is  3 miles  long,  and  contains  960  acres 
of  excellent  soil  on  a solid  foundation 
of  limestone  above  the  encroachment  of 
the  highest  water,  and  is  about  equally 
divided  into  timber  and  cleared  land.  It 
was  settled  in  1816  by  800  U.  S.  troops 
under  Colonel  William  Lawrence,  who 
there  established  Fort  Armstrong.  At 
the  lower  point,  where  now  stands  the 
new  U.  S.  Arsenal,  were  the  headquarters- 
of  Generals  Scott,  Taylor,  and  Gaines,  dur- 
ing the  Black  Hawk  War.  Eor  many 
years  it  was  under  the  control  of  Colonel 
Davenport,  who  brought  the  first  white 
women  to  this  country  in  1816.  Port 
Armstrong  was  evacuated  in  1836,  peace 
having  been  insured. 

The  island  is  the  property  of  the  United 
States,  and  was  the  great  Confederate 
prison  during  the  late  civil  war ; as  many 
as  12,000  prisoners  being  confined  there 
at  a time. 

In  1863  Brigadier-General  Rodman  (of 
Rodman-gun  fame)  took  charge,  and 
commenced  the  extensive  Government 


Davenport.] 


NEW  YOEK  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XIII. 


[Davenport. 


improvements,  and  the  building  of  the 
great  central  armories  of  the  United 
States.  These  buildings,  ten  in  number, 
have  been  commenced ; two  of  them  are 
nearly  completed.  They  are  in  the  central 
part  of  the  island,  and  built  in  the  shape 
of  a CZ)  each  220  feet  front,  by  300  feet 
deep,  three  stories  high,  of  Joliet  stone 
and  wrought-iron.  There  are  7,000  cubic 
yards  of  stone  masonry,  1,000,000  brick 
for  ceiling  arches,  7,500  tons  of  wrought- 
iron,  51,500  squares  of  slate,  and  165,600 
feet  of  oak  flooring  to  each  building,  the 
cost  of  each  being  about  $600,000. 

Here  are  magniflcent  headquarters, 
costing  $100,000,  tv^enty  miles  of  splendid 
roadways,  running  in  every  direction ; 
diives,  walks,  promenades,  and  paths  ; in- 
deed the  most  delightful  scenery,  rushing 
waters,  delightful  shade,  and  magnificent 
prospects  from  every  point  of  view.  It  is 
the  great  Central  Park  of  the  North- 
west. It  is  approached  at  the  upper  end 
by  an  elegant  wrought-iron  carriage- 
bridge,  leading  over  from  Moline,  and 
from  Rock  Island  by  a similar  structure, 
both  built  by  the  Government.  From  the 
Davenport  side  a massive  iron  railway, 
carriage,  and  foot  bridge  is  being  thrown 
across  the  main  channel,  a short  distance 
below  the  present  wooden  bridge,  connect- 
ing with  the  extreme  lower  end  of  the 
island,  which  is  very  abrupt,  rising  in  a 
lime-stone  ledge,  from  15  to  21  feet  above 
water. 

In  the  face  of  this  ledge  is  Black 
Hawk"*s  Cave^  a high  aperture  extending 
some  distance  back  under  the  island. 
Old  Fort  Armstrong,  built  in  1816,  on 
this  rocky  point,  has  entirely  passed 
away,  and  in  its  place  rises  a magnificent 
cut-stone  armory,  180  by  160  feet,  with 
a massive  tower,  having  an  area  of  83 
by  33  feet,  and  rising  135  feet,  sur- 
mounted by  a bell  and  a clock,  the  huge 
face,'hands,  and  figures  of  which  are  dis- 
tinctly visible  in  both  Davenport  and 
Rock  Island. 

lo.  (183  miles),  a 
flourishing  city,  the  capital  of  Scott 
County,  is  the  metropolis  of  the  State. 
Its  population  in  1860  was  11,267;  and 
in  1870,  23,560.  The  city  is  finely  lo- 
cated on  the  Mississippi  River ^ at  the  foot 
of  the  Upper  Rapids^  330  miles  above  St. 
Louis.  It  is  built  at  the  foot,  along  the 


slope,  and  upon  the  top  of  a gently-rising 
bluff,  extending  along  the  river  a distance 
of  8-^  miles.  It  was  formerly  connected 
with  the  island  and  city  of  Rock  Island 
by  a substantial  railroad  bridge,  now  re- 
placed by  the  new  Government  railroad, 
carriage,  and  foot  bridge,  of  wrought-iron 
on  massive  Joliet-stone  piers,  very  hand- 
somely built.  This  bridge  was  completed 
in  1871,  at  a cost  of  $1,000,000,  equally 
divided  between  the  U.  S.  Government 
and  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & Pacific 
Railway. 

The  city  has  5 miles  of  street-railway ; 
an  immense  water-power,  that  steps  are 
being  taken  to  improve ; and  is  the  great 
grain  depot  of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 
Here  are  numerous  extensive  jobbing- 
houses,  manufactories  of  machinery, 
woollens,  lumber,  and  agricultural  machin- 
ery, furniture,  etc. 

About  the  city  and  its  suburbs  the 
tourist  will  find  pleasant  drives,  and  from 
lookout  points  along  the  bluffs  are  some 
of  the  most  magnificent  views  of  river, 
bluff-land  and  prairie  scenery,  embracing 
in  one  grand  sweep  the  island,  the  city 
of  Rock  Island,  the  villages  of  Moline, 
Milan,  and  the  encircling  amphitheatre  of 
bluffs — the  magnificent  river  stretching 
out  miles  and  miles  away  on  either 
hand. 

Davenport  has  25  church  edifices,  and 
large  and  substantial  school  buildings. 
There  are  here  also  Griswold  College^ 
College  of  the  Bisters  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception^  and  Mercy  Hospital^  and  here 
is  the  finest  opera-house  in  the  West, 
outside  of  Chicago. 

Davenport  was  settled  in  1835  by 
Antoine  Le  Claire,  a half-breed  interpreter 
of  the  Sac  and  Fox  Indians,  whose  chief 
village  was  here.  It  is  now  one  of  the 
most  prosperous  of  the  Western  cities, 
situated  in  the  heart  of  extensive  bitu- 
minous coal-fields,  at  the  junction  of  rail- 
roads extending  in  every  direction — the 
Chicago^  Rock  Island  & Pacific^  Daven- 
port  & St.  Paul^  Chicago  ds  Southwestern 
lines  on  the  west ; and  the  Chicago^  Rock 
Island  dc  Pacific.,  Rockford,  Rock  Island 
S St.  Zoziis,  Western  Union,  Peoria  & 
Rock  Island  on  the  east. 

Its  hotel  accommodations  are  exten- 
sive, the  Burtis  taking  the  lead.  Round 
about  are  the  villages  of  Le  Claire,  Buffalo, 
77 


tV'lLTON.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


Gilbert  Town  and  Valley  City — connected 
by  picturesque  drives. 

£o,  (208  miles),  is  a pret- 
ty post-village  of  Muscatine  County.  A 
branch  to  Muscatine^  a city  of  6,750  in- 
habitants, 12  miles  distant,  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi, thence  to  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  State,  and  soon  to  be  extended  to 
Leavenworth,  Kansas,  leaves  the  main 
line  here. 

West  Hii'toei’ty,  le.  (221  miles), 
is  a neat,  thrifty  post-village  in  Muscatine 
County.  Here  is  the  crossing  of  the  Bur- 
lington^ Cedar  Rapids  d;  Minnesota  Rail- 
way^ completed  to  the  Northern  part  of 
the  State. 

Iowa,  Cfity,  lo.  (237  miles),  is 
quite  a flourishing  town,  and  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  bluiis  of  the  Iowa 
River.  It  was  formerly  the  capital  of 
the  State,  being  selected  as  such  in  May, 
1839,  vfhen  it  was  entirely  in  a state  of 
nature.  Within  a year  from  that  time  it 
contained  from  600  to  700  inhabitants. 
The  late  census  gives  it  a population  of 
7,500.  The  town  is  embowered  among 
groves  of  trees,  and  surrounded  by  fer- 
tile farms.  The  streets,  for  the  most 
part,  are  long  and  wide.  At  the  intersec- 
tion of  Capital  Street  and  Iowa  Avenue, 
on  a commanding  eminence,  stands  the 
former  capitol,  a fine  edifice  of  the  Doric 
order,  120  feet  long  and  60  feet  wide. 
This  building  has  been  transferred  to  the 
State  University^  which  has  about  600 
pupils.  The  river  is  navigable  by  steam- 
boats from  its  mouth  to  this  place  in  high 
water,  and  affords  excellent  water-power. 
Iowa  City  has  12  churches,  a paper-mill, 
machine-shops,  a linseed-oil  mill,  flour- 
mills, etc.  Population  in  1870,  7,500. 

So.  (302  miles),  is  a 
thriving  post-village,  and  the  seat  of  Iowa 
College.  The  North  Iowa  Central  Rail- 
road crosses  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & 
Pacific  at  this  point. 

NcwtoBi,  So.  (322  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Jasper  County.  It  has  several 
fine  buildings.  Coal  is  found  in  large 
quantities  in  its  vicinity. 

Moiuics,  So.  (357  miles),  the 
capital  of  Iowa,  is  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  Des  Moines  and  Raccoon  Rivers.  It 
contains  15  churches,  a paper-mill,  ma- 
chine-shops, and  founderles,  an  academy, 
five  high-schools,  a U.  S.  Court,  a hand- 
78 


[Des  3Ioine3. 

some  post-office  building,  and  many  very 
fine  private  residences. 

The  foundation  of  a new  §3,000,000 
State-House  is  being  laid. 

Extensive  coal-mines  are  worked  here, 
and  wood  is  abundant.  Prom  its  excel- 
lent location  this  is  destined  to  be  a largo 
and  thrifty  city.  Population  in  1870, 
12,380.  Des  Mohies  Valley  Railway 
connects  here  with  Keokuk  at  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  State,  and  Fort  Dodge, 
some  fifty  miles  northward. 

Prom  Des  Moines  the  road  passes 
through  a fine  prairie  country,  dotted 
with  pretty  villages,  until  we  reach  the 
bluffs,  and  descend  into  the  Missouri 
Bottom. 

CoBoacll  (490  miles), 

has  been  described  in  Route  XII.  {See 
page  74.) 

MO  UTE  XI  V. 

CHICAGO  TO  OMAHA. 

Via  CMcago.,  Burlington  & Quincy.,  a/nd  Bur- 
lington efi  Missouri  livcer  Bailuays.  ( Time, 

23  hr s.— Fare,  $19  75. 

Stations.  — Chicago,  Burlington  & 
Quincy  Railway. — Chicago — River  Side, 
12  miles  from  Chicago;  Hinsdale,  18; 
Downer’s  Grove,  23 ; Napierville,  29 ; 
Aurora,  38  ; Bristol,  46  ; Plano,  53 ; 
Somanauk,  60  ; Leland,  66  ; Earl,  73  ; 
Mendota  (connects  with  Illinois  Central 
Railway),  84 ; Arlington,  92 ; Malden, 
99  ; Princeton,  105  ; Chicago,  Rock  Isl- 
and & Pacific  Junction  (connects  with 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway), 
113  ; Buda  (connects  with  Buda  & Rush- 
ville  Branch),  117;  Neponset,  124;  Ke- 
wanee,  132 ; Galva  (connects  with  Galva 
& New  Boston  Branch),  140 ; Altona, 
147 ; Oneida,  151  ; Wataga,  156  ; Gales- 
burg (diverges  from  main  line),  163 ; 
Cameron,  172;  Monmouth,  179;  Young 
America,  185 ; Sagetown,  197 ; Burling- 
ton (connects  with  Burlington  & Missouri 
Valley  Railway,  and  with  Branches  to 
Keokuk  and  Carthage),  207. 

Stations.  — Burlington  do  Missouri 
River  Raihvay.  — Burlington,  207  miles 
from  Chicago ; Mount  Pleasant,  235  ; 
Glendale,  249  ; Fairfield,  267  ; Whitfield, 
262  ; Ottumwa  (connects  with  Des  Moines 
Valley  & North  Missouri  Railway),  285  ; 


Napierville.] 


CHICAGO  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XIV. 


[BaRLINGTON. 


Albia,  307 ; Melrose,  321 ; Chariton,  337 ; 
Osceola,  363  ; Afton,  387  ; Creston,  397 ; 
Corning,  418;  Red  Oak  (connects  with 
Red  Oak  Branch  for  East  Nebraska  City), 
448  ; Glenwood,  478;  Pacific  Junction 
(connects  with  Platsmoiith  & Lincoln 
Branch),  482  ; Council  Bluffs,  493  ; Mis- 
souri River,  503 ; Omaha  ('connects  with 
Union  Pacific  Railv/ay),  504. 

The  Chicago,  Burlington  & Quincy 
Railway  passes  through  some  of  the  best 
farming-land  in  the  State  of  Illinois, 
crossing  it  diagonally  from  Chicago  on 
Lake  Michigan  to  East  Burlington,  Illi- 
nois, where  connection  is  made  by  ferry 
with  the  railways  divergent  from  Burling- 
ton. Of  the  cities  and  villages  along  the 
line  the  general  remark  can  be  made 
that  they  are  prosperous,  well  provided 
with  churches  and  schools,  and  are  neatly 
and  tastefully  built.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  mention  them  all,  and  only  a few,  which 
for  exceptional  reasons  require  especial 
notice,  will  be  described. 

Claicag’o,  has  been  described 

in  Route  I.  {See  p.  6.) 

Mapicrville,  Sil.  (29  miles),  the 
capital  of  Du  Page  County,  is  upon  the 
Du  Page  River^  which  furnishes  a good 
water-power. 

Aiaroa-a,  1I1<,  (38  miles),  is  a city 
of  over  10,000  inhabitants,  situated  upon 
Fox  River ^ which  furnishes  the  power  for 
numerous  important  manufactories.  It 
contains  a handsome  City-Hall,  and  many 
fine  stores  and  dwellings.  The  construc- 
tion and  repair-shops  of  ^ the  railway, 
situated  here,  give  employment  to  about 
700  men. 

Meiad.ota,  111,  (84  miles),  is  a 
place  of  rapid  growth,  the  first  house 
having  been  built  in  1853,  the  popu- 
lation now  being  about  6,000.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a rich  farming  region,  and, 
coal  being  abundant  and  cheap,  manufac- 
tures are  numerous  and  varied.  This  is 
the  seat  of  Mendota  College^  and  of  a 
Wesleyan  Seminary,  Some  of  the  churches 
are  handsome  edifices.  The  Illinois  Cen- 
tral Railway  connects  here. 

l?riiicetoia.  111.  (105  miles),  is 
upon  a beautiful  prairie,  and  is  the  capital 
of  Bureau  County.  Eight  miles  beyond 
is  the  crossing  of  the  Chicago^  Rock 
Island  dc  Paeifi.c  Railway. 

HiE-da,  111.  (117  miles),  is  the  point 


where  the  Buda  & Ruslivillc  Branch  di- 
verges. This  branch  is  110  miles  long, 
and  is  only  of  local  importance.  The  fol- 
lowing are  the  names  of  the  stations : 
Bradford,  Wyoming,  Brimfield,  Elmwood, 
Yates  City,  Norris,  Bryant,  Lewiston, 
Vermont,  Rushville. 

Ciralva,  311®  (140  miles),  is  where  the 
Galva  Few  Boston  Branch  diverges. 
This  branch  is  51  miles  in  length,  and  New 
Boston^  the  terminus,  is  a place  of  much 
business  activity,  situated  upon  the  Mis- 
sissippi River.  The  following  are  the 
names  of  the  stations  : Woodhull,  New 
Windsor,  Viola,  Aledo,  Joy,  New  Boston. 

4walesl>aa-g*,  311.  (163  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  city,  with  a rapidly-growing 
trade.  It  is  noted  for  its  educational 
advantages,  being  the  seat  of  Knox  Col- 
lege and  of  Lombard  College,  and  has  a 
female  seminary  and  several  public 
schools.  It  is  surrounded  by  a rich 
farming  country.  The  road  branches 
here,  the  main  line  or  Quincy  Division 
continuing  toward  the  southwest,  while 
westward-bound  passengers  turn  toward 
Burlington.  The  Galesburg  & Peoria 
Branchy  53  miles  long,  diverges  here. 
The  following  are  the  names  of  the  sta- 
tions : Gilson,  Maquon,  Summit,  Yates 
City,  Elmwood,  Oak  Hill,  Edwards,  Kick- 
apoo,  Peoria. 

Sil.  (179  miles),  the 
capital  of  Warren  County,  is  a prosper- 
ous place,  and  is  situated  on  a rich  and 
beautiful  prairie.  It  contains  a college. 

East  ISfliriisig-toii,  111.  (206 
miles),  the  last  station  in  Illinois,  is  upon 
the  Mississippi  River^  opposite  Burling- 
ton, Iowa,  which  is  reached  by  ferry. 

llarlimg’toia.  So.  (207  miles),  the 
capital  of  Des  Moines  County,  excepting 
Davenport  and  Dubuque,  is  the  largest 
city  in  the  State,  and  a place  of  great 
commercial  importance.  The  business 
portion  of  the  city  is  built  upon  the  low 
ground  along  the  river,  while  the  resi- 
dences upon  the  high  bluffs  command 
extended  views  of  the  fine  river  scenery. 
The  river  at  this  point  is  a broad,  deep, 
and  beautiful  stream  of  clear  water,  and 
upon  the  bluffs  between  which  it  passes 
are  large  orchards  and  vineyards. 

The  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  well 
built,  the  houses  being  chiefly  of  brick. 
It  contains  Burlington  University  (a 
79 


Mount  Pleasant.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations 


Baptist  institution),  a public  library,  and 
many  handsome  churches.  It  is  connect- 
ed with  all  the  river-ports  by  regular 
lines  of  steamers.  The  business  of  the 
city  is  large.  The  following  railway  lines 
centre  here  : Chicago^  Burlington 

Quincy^  which  has  just  been  described ; 
Carthage  Bra,nch  of  Chicago^  Burlington 
dt  Quincy^  which  runs  south  on  the  Illi- 
nois side  of  the  river  for  SY  miles,  and 
has  the  following  stations : Lomax, 

Colusa,  Ferris,  Carthage,  Basco,  West 
Point,  Stillwell,  Mendon ; Burlington  <Ss 
Keokuk  Branch  of  Chicago^  Burlington  & 
Quincy^  running  south  43  miles  on  the 
Iowa  side,  and  having  the  following  sta- 
tions: Wever,  Fort  Madison,  Painter 
Creek,  NashviUe,  Sandusky,  Keokuk ; 
and  Burlington  Missouri  Railway. 

Taking  the  cars  of  the  Burlington  c& 
3fissouri  River  Railway^  the  tourist  may 
prepare  himself  for  a pleasant  ride  of 
about  14  hours  across  the  rolling  prairie- 
lands  of  the  State,  continually  though 
imperceptibly  rising,  until  at  Creston  he 
finds  himself  on  the  dividing  ridge  be- 
tween the  Mississippi  and  the  Missouri, 
800  feet  above  their  level. 

M©^asat  lOo  (235 

miles),  the  capital  of  Henry  County,  stands 
upon  an  elevated  prairie,  surrounded  on 
all  sides  but  the  east  by  JBig  Creek.,  which 
is  here  bent  like  a horseshoe.  It  con- 
tains Whittier  College.,  the  Wesleyan  Uni- 
versity.,  and  several  good  schools.  About 
a mile  to  the  south  of  the  railway,  and 
in  full  view  from  the  cars,  is  the  Iowa 
Hospital  for  the  Insane.  The  country  in 
the  vicinity  is  highly  productive,  and  the 
soil  easily  cultivated. 

So,  (257  miles),  the 
capital  of  Jefferson  County,  is  situated  on 
Big  Cedar  Creek.,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
important  towns  in  the  interior  of  the 
State.  There  are  in  this  place  a United 
States  land-office,  a female  seminary,  and 
a college  established  by  the  State.  The 
surrounding  country  is  rolling  prairie, 
diversified  with  forests  of  hard  wood, 
and  is  well  watered. 

So.  (285  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Wapello  County,  and  is  the 
largest  town  on  this  line  between  the 
Mississippi  and  the  Missouri.  For  several 
years  it  was  the  terminus  of  the  road.  It 
has  a good  water-power  from  the  Dcs 
80 


Moines  River,  and  is  surrounded  by  coal 
timber,  and  building-stone.  The  Det 
Moines  Valley  Railway  connects  here. 

Allhia,  Bo.  (307  miles),  is  the  capital 
of  Monroe  County.  It  is  surrounded  b)’ 
a rich  farming  district  of  alternating 
prairies  and  woodlands. 

CIaai*itoifl,  lo.  (337  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Lucas  County,  and  is  situated 
upon  Chariton  River. 

Osceola,  Bo.  (363  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Clarke  County.  It  is  situated 
on  the  dividing  ridge  between  White 
BreoM  and  Squaw  Creeks.  The  railway 
now  building  from  Des  Moines  to  Kansaa 
City  will  connect  here. 

CrestOM,  lo.  (397  miles),  is  upoF, 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Missouri  Rivers.  The  engine- 
houses  and  car-repair  shops  of  this  divi- 
sion of  the  road  are  located  here. 

H.ecl  lo.  (448  miles),  is  the 

capital  of  Montgomery  County.  The  Rea 
Oak  Branch  for  East  Nebraska  City  di- 
verges here. 

^leiawoo^,  lo.  (478  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  Mills  County,  and  is  four  miles 
east  of  Pacific  Junction,  where  the  Plats- 
mouth  Lincoln  Branch,  now  completed 
as  far  as  Lincoln,  Neb.,  diverges,  crossing 
the  Missouri  River  by  ferry  at  Plats- 
mouth. 

CoMBicil  lo.  (493  miles), 

described  in  Route  XII.  {See  page  74.) 

Ontalaa,  Nel>.  (504  miles),  de- 
scribed in  Route  XYIII.  {See  page  95.) 


M O TTTE  X V. 

NEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA  VIA  LOGANS- 
PORT,  PEORIA,  AND  KEOKUK. 

Via  Route  II.  to  Toledo;  Route  XII.  to 
Logansport;  and  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & 
St.  Louis ; Toledo,  Peoria  & Warsaw ; Des 
Moines  Valley  and  Iowa  Di/cision  of  Chi- 
cago, Rock  Island  S Pacific  Railways. 
{Time,  58  hr s.— Fare,  $42.) 

Stations. — Columbus,  Chicago  & Indi- 
ana Central  Division  of  Pittsburg  Cin- 
cinnatti  efi  St.  Louis  Railway. — Logans- 
port, 906  miles  from  New  York  ; Burnet- 
ville,  918 ; Reynolds  (connects  with  Louis- 
ville, New  Albany  k Chicago  Railway)- 
923 ; Remington,  937  ; State  Line  (con- 
nects with  Toledo,  Peoria  & Warsaw  Rail- 
way), 957. 


liOGANSPORT.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XV. 


[Bushnelu 


Stations. — Toledo^  Peoria  Warsaw 
Railway. — State  Line,  957  miles  from 
New  York  ; Watseka,  968  ; Gilman  (con- 
nects with  Chicago  Branch  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  982  ; Chatsworth,  99V  ; 
Chenoa  (connects  with  Chicago  & Alton 
Railway),  1,020 ; El  Paso  (connects  with 
Illinois  Central  Railway),  1,035;  Wash- 
ington, 1,056 ; Peoria  (connects  with 
Peoria,  Pekin  & Jacksonville  Railway), 
1,068 ; Canton,  1,096 ; Bushnell  (con- 
nects with  Chicago,  Burlington  & Quincy 
Railway),  1,128  ; LaHarpe,  1,152  ; Elvas- 
ton,  1,1V3  ; Warsaw  (connects  by  ferry 
with  Des  Moines  Valley  Railway),  1,184. 

Stations. — Des  Moines  Valley  Railway. 
— Keokuk,  1,185  miles  from  New  York  ; 
Sand  Prairie,  1,199  ; Belfast,  1,204  ; Far- 
mington, 1,215;  Bonaparte,  1,220;  Ben- 
tonsport,  1,223  ; Kilbourne,  1,232  ; Inde- 
pendent, 1,243  ; Ashland  (connects  with 
Branch  of  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & Pacific 
Railway),  1,248;  Ottumwa  (connects  with 
Burlington  & Missouri  River  Railway), 
1,260;  Eddyville,  1,2V6  ; Oskaloosa,  1,284 ; 
Pella,  1,299  ; Otley,  1,308 ; Monroe,  1,313 ; 
Prairie  City,  1,322  ; Woodville,  1,328  ; 
Des  Moines  (connects  with  Chicago,  Rock 
Island  k Pacific  Railway),  1,346. 

Stations. — Chicago.,  Rock  Islanded  Pa- 
cific Railway. — Des  Moines,  1,346  miles 
from  New  York;  Boone,  1,361  ; De  Soto, 
1,368  ; Dexter,  1,381 ; Casey,  1,39V ; Adair, 
1,404;  Anita,  1,411;  Atlantic,  1,425; 
Avoca,  1,444;  Shelby,  1,452;  Neola, 
1,463;  Council  Bluffs,  1,4V9 ; Missouri 
River,  1,482 ; Omaha  (connects  with 
Union  Pacific  Railway),  1,483. 

From  the  number  of  different  corpora- 
tions named  in  this  list  a traveller  would 
almost  be  deterred  from  attempting  the 
trip  ; but  this  would  be  a groundless  an- 
ticipation of  trouble,  for  changes  of  cars 
are  by  no  means  as  frequent  as  it  would 
appear,  arrangements  existing  by  which 
the  cars  of  any  one  of  these  roads  may 
be  run  over  the  tracks  of  the  others. 

ILiOg'aii sport,  lad.  (906  miles). 
{See  page  83.) 

Meyaolds,  Sad.  (923  miles),  is 
the  junction  of  the  Louisville^  New  Albany 
& Chicago  Railway. 

State  S^iae,  Sad.  (95V  miles),  is 
the  junction  of  the  Toledo.,  Peoria  & 
Wabash  Railway.,  the  line  of  which  we 
now  follow. 


Crilaiaa,  511.  (982  miles),  is  the 
junction  of  the  Chicago  Branch  of  the 
Illinois  Central  Railway,  and  is  a steadily- 
growing  place. 

Clieaoa,  III.  (1,020  miles),  is  a 
small  town  at  the  intersection  of  the  Chi- 
cago <Sc  Alton  Railway. 

5?^aso,  Sli.  (1,035  miles),  is  a 
place  of  considerable  importance,  being 
the  largest  place  between  Peoria  and  the 
State  line.  It  has  a population  of  over 
3,000  inhabitants,  and  contains  eight 
churches,  and  schools,  manufactories, 
stores,  etc.,  equal  to  those  of  any  town  of 
its  size  in  the  State.  The  country  in  the 
neighborhood  is  being  rapidly  settled,  the 
land  being  some  of  the  richest  in  the 
State.  The  main  line  of  the  Illinois  Cen- 
tral Railway  connects  here. 

5®eorlsi,  SlI.  (1,068  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  the  county  of  the  same  name, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  cities  in 
the  State.  It  stands  upon  the  west  bank 
of  the  Illinois  River  at  the  mouth  of 
Peoria  Lake,  and  has  water  communica- 
tion both  with  Chicago  and  St.  Louis,  by 
means  of  river  and  canal.  It  is  also  an 
important  railway  point,  and  is  the  centre 
of  an  immense  trade.  The  followiug  de- 
scription is  not  exaggerated  : 

“ Peoria  is  the  most  beautiful  place  on 
the  river.  Situated  on  rising  ground,  a 
broad  plateau  extending  back  from  the 
bluff,  it  is  free  from  inundation  at  times 
of  high  water.  The  river  here  expands 
into  a broad,  deep  lake,  which  is  a most 
beautiful  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the 
town,  and  as  useful  as  beautiful,-  supply- 
ing the  inhabitants  with  ample  stores  of 
fish,  and  in  winter  with  abundance  of  the 
purest  ice.  A substantial  drawbridge 
connects  the  town  with  the  opposite  bank. 
The  city  is  laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks, 
the  streets  being  wide  and  well  graded. 
The  schools  and  churches  are  prosperous, 
and  the  society  good.  A public  square 
has  been  reserved  near  the  centre.  Back 
of  the  town  extends  one  of  the  finest 
rolling  prairies  in  the  State.” 

The  Peoria,  Pekin  & Jacksonville  Rail- 
way connects  here. 

Caitton,  111.  (1,096  miles),  is  a 
pleasant  village  at  the  intersection  of  a 
branch  of  the  Chicago,  Burlington  <Ss 
Quincy  Railway. 

ISitslmell,  111.  (1,128  miles),  la 
81 


Warsaw.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations. 


where  the  main  line  of  the  Chicago^  Bur- 
lington d'  Quincy  Railway  connects. 

%ysi-irsaw.  111.  (1,184  miles),  is 
the  western  terminus  of  the  Toledo^ 
Peoria  d Wabash  Railway^  and  is  a 
thriving  place.  It  is  on  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of  the 
lower  rapids,  is  pleasantly  situated  upon 
elevated  ground,  and  has  a large  river- 
trade.  It  is  connected  by  ferry  with 
Keokuk,  Iowa. 

Meolsiilc,  3o.  (1,185  miles),  is 
the  eastern  terminus  of  the  Des  Moines 
Valley  Railway^  and  is  the  semi-capital  of 
Lee  County.  It  is  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  River^  which  is 
here  a mile  wide.  The  lower  rapids,  at 
the  foot  of  which  the  city  stands,  are  11 
miles  long,  and  in  that  distance  the  water 
fails  24  feet,  affording  a good  water- 
power. This  is  the  head  of  navigation 
for  the  very  largest  size  of  river-steamers, 
though  large  and  elegant  packets  run  as 
far  as  St.  Paul,  Minnesota.  The  city  is 
well  built  and  finely  situated,  standing 
upon  a limestone  formation  which  fur- 
nishes good  building-material. 

The  Medical  Department  of  the  State 
University  is  situated  here,  and  educa- 
tional facilities  of  all  kinds  are  good.  The 
river  flows  between  bluffs  about  150  feet 
in  height.  In  the  centre  is  an  island 
affording  good  facilities  for  constructing 
a bridge  at  this  point. 

The  railway  follows  the  course  of  the 
Des  Moines  River^  which  empties  into 
the  Mississippi  4 miles  below  Keokuk. 
The  river  flows  through  a fertile  and  un- 
dulating country,  and  the  valley  is  in 
places  very  beautiful.  Improvements 
are  now  in  progress  by  which  it  is  in- 
tended to  make  the  river  navigable  as  far 
as  Des  Moines. 

lParmiBig'toia9  lo.  (1,216  miles), 
is  a thriving  place,  and  the  shipping- 
point  for  a rich  farming  district. 

Aslalsamil,  lo.  (1,248  miles).  A 
Branch  of  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  d 
Pacific  Railway,  running  from  Wilton, 
through  Muscatine,  Washington,  etc.,  con- 
nects here. 

So.  (1,2G0  miles), 
connects  with  the  Burlington  d Missouri 
River  and  the  North  Missouri  Railways. 
(For  description,  see  Route  XIV.,  page  80.) 

Oslca^loosa.,  Bo.  (1,284  miles), 
82 


the  capital  of  Mahaska  County,  has  an 
elevated  situation,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a fertile  region.  It  was  laid  out  in 
1844,  and  has  a settled  and  rapidly-in- 
creasing  population. 

l>cs  Moimcs,  Bo.  (1,346  miles), 
has  been  described  in  Route  XIII.  {See 
page  78.) 

From  Des  Moines  to  Omaha  the  journey 
is  over  the  Chicago,  Rock  Island  d Pacific 
Railway,  which  has  been  described  in 
Route  XIII. 

JROUTE  XVI. 

PEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA. 

Via  Route  TL  to  Toledo,  Ohio,  thence  via 
Toledo,  Wabash,  Western,  JTarmibal  <& 
St.  Joseph,  and  Kansas  City,  St.  Joseph  & 
Council  Blufs  Railways.  {Time,  — hrs. — 
Fare,  $42.) 

Stations. — Toledo,  WahoAih  d Western 
Railway. — Toledo : Maumee  City,  9 miles  ; 
Whitehouse,  17;  Washington,  26;  Lib- 
erty, 30  ; Napoleon,  36  ; Oakland,  43  ; 
Defiance,  51 ; Emerald,  61 ; Antwerp, 
72;  Woodburn,  80;  New  Haven,  88; 
Fort  Wayne  (connects  with  Pittsburg, 
Fort  Wajme  & Chicago  Railway),  94 ; 
Roanoke,  110;  Huntington,  118;  Antioch, 
124 ; Lagro,  131 ; Wabash,  136 ; Kellers, 
141 ; Peru  (connects  with  Indianapolis, 
Peru  k Chicago  Railway,  150  ; Waverly, 
158;  Logansport  (connects  with  Colum- 
bus, Chicago  & Indiana  Central  Railway), 
166;  Clymers,  171;  Rockfield,  180; 
Delphi,  187;  Buck  Creek,  195;  Lafay- 
ette (connects  with  Indiana,  Cincinnati  k 
Lafayette  Railway,  and  with  Louisville, 
New  Albany  k Chicago  Railway),  203 ; 
Wea,  210;  West  Point,  212;  Attica,  224; 
Williamsport,  227;  Marshfield,  236;  State 
Line,  243  ; Danville  (connects  with  In- 
dianapolis, Bloomington  k Western  Rail- 
Avay),  250 ; Catlin,  256 ; Fairmount,  263  ; 
Homer,  270;  Sidney,  276;  Tolono  (con- 
nects with  Chicago  Division  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  286 ; Bement,  303 ; 
Cerro  Gordo,  312;  Sangamon,  319; 
Decatur  (connects  with  Main  Line  of 
Illinois  Central  Railway),  324;  Niantic, 
335 ; Illiopolis,  339 ; Mechanicsburg, 
348  ; Dawson,  361 ; Howlett,  355 ; 
Springfield  (connects  with  Chicago  k 
Alton  Railway),  362 ; Chicago  k Alton 
Junction,  364  ; Curran,  371 ; Berlin,  379  ; 


Stations.]  NEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XYL  [Delphi. 


Island  Grove,  381 ; Alexander,  386  ; Or- 
leans, 388  ; Jacksonville  (connects  with 
Jacksonville  Division  Chicago  & Alton 
Railway),  396  ; Chapin,  406  ; Morgan,  408 ; 
Neely’s,  411;  Blufe,  414;  Naples,  418; 
Griggsville,  428  ; Pittsfield  Junction,  432 ; 
New  Salem,  435 ; Barry,  446 ; East 
Hannibal,  463  ; Hannibal  (connects  with 
Hannibal  & St.  Joseph  Railway),  464, 

Stations. — Hannibal  ct  St.  Joseph  Hail- 
way. — Hannibal,  464  miles  from  Toledo ; 
Barkley,  474  ; Palmyra  Junction  (con- 
nects with  branch  to  Quincy,  where 
connections  are  made  with  Chicago,  Bur- 
lington & Quincy,  and  Toledo,  Wabash  & 
Western  Railways),  479;  Monroe,  494; 
Hunnewelle,  501 ; Shelbina  (connects 
with  stages  to  Paris  and  Shelby ville), 
511;  Clarence,  523;  Carbon,  531; 
Macon  (connects  with  North  Missouri 
Railway  for  St,  Louis),  534  ; Bevier,  539  ; 
Callao,  543  ; New  Cambria,  550  ; Bucklin, 
558 ; St.  Catherine,  564 ; Brookfield, 
568 ; Laclede  (connects  with  stage  for 
Brunswick,  Linnens,  etc.),  573 ; Mead- 
ville,  679 ; Wheeling,  584 ; Chillicothe 
(connects  with  stage  for  Trenton,  Prince- 
ton, etc.),  593 ; Utica,  598 ; Brecken- 
ridge,  608 ; Hamilton  (connects  with 
stages  for  Richmond  and  Lexington), 
619 ; Kidder,  626  ; Cameron,  634 ; 
Cameron  Junction  (connects  with  Cam- 
eron & Kansas  City  Branch,  for  Turney, 
Lathrop,  Holt,  Kearney,  Robertson,  Lib- 
erty, Arnold,  Harlem,  and  Kansas  City), 
635  ; Osborn,  640 ; Stewartsville,  648  ; 
Easton,  657 ; St.  Joseph  (connects  with 
Missouri  Valley  Railway  for  Atchison  and 
Leavenworth  ; v/ith  Kansas  City,  St. 
Joseph  & Council  Bluffs  Railway  for 
Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha,  there  connect- 
ing with  Union  Pacific  Railway  for  Cali- 
fornia), 662. 

Stations. — Kansas  City^  St.  Joseph  & 
Council  Bluffs  Railway. — Nodaway,  676 
miles  from  Toledo ; Forest  City,  691 ; 
Bigelow,  701;  Corning,  714;  Phelps, 
727  ; Hamburg  (connects  with  Red  Oak 
Branch  of  the  Burlington  & Missouri 
River  Railway),  741 ; East  Nebraska  City, 
752  ; Bartlett,  767;  Pacific  Junction 
(connects  with  Burlington  & Missouri 
River  Railway),  775 ; Council  Bluffs 
(connects  with  all  diverging  railways  and 
wdth  steamers  on  Missouri  River),  792 ; 
Omaha,  796. 


O.  (715  miles  from  New 
York).  {See  page  19.) 

Ma,iisiaee  City,  (9  miles),  is 
at  the  head  of  actual  steamboat  naviga- 
tion on  the  Maumee  River. 

Napoieom,  (36  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Henry  County,  is  a village  upon  the 
left  bank  of  the  Maumee  River ^ and  upon 
the  Wabash  Erie  Canal. 

l>claaiice,  (51  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Defiance  County,  is  upon  the  site 
of  Fort  Defiance,  which  was  built  by 
General  Wayne  in  1794.  It  is  a pros- 
perous place,  at  the  junction  of  the 
Auglaize  with  the  Maumee  River^  which 
latter  stream  is  navigable  for  small 
steamers  to  this  point  at  high  water. 
Ordinarily  it  is  not  navigable  for  vessels 
of  more  than  about  60  tons’  burden. 

Aiatw®i*p,  O.  (80  miles),  is  the 
last  station  in  Ohio. 

^Aayiie,  (94  miles), 

connects  with  Pittsburg.,  Fort  Wayne  <& 
Chicago  Railway.  {See  page  24.) 

lIiaiatiMLg’toia,  liial.  (118  miles), 
the  capital  of  Huntington  County,  is  a 
prosperous  place,  in  the  midst  of  a very 
fertile  country.  It  is  situated  on  Little 
River  and  on  the  Wabash  k Erie  Canal, 
within  one  mile  of  the  Forks  of  the 
Wabash.,  upon  the  site  of  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, once  the  residence  of  La  Fountain, 
a chief  of  the  Miami  tribe.  It  is  a great 
centre  for  lime  and  building-stone,  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  numerous  mill-sites 
and  great  water-power. 

Kiags-o,  (131  miles),  is  on  the 

Wabash  River  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Salamonie. 

(136  miles),  the 
capital  of  Wabash  County,  is  situated 
upon  the  river  and  canal  of  the  same 
name. 

(150  miles),  the  capital 
of  Miami  County,  promises  to  be  an  im- 
portant place.  Within  the  past  few 
years  it  has  increased  rapidly  in  popula- 
tion. (The  Howe  Sewing-Machine  Com- 
pany has  lately  established  a Western 
branch  of  its  company  here.)  The  In- 
dianapolis., Peru  & Chicago  Railway  con- 
nects at  Peru. 

KiOg-aatsport,  (166  miles). 

The  Columbus,  Chicago  <Sc  Indiana  Central 
Railway  connects  here.  {See  page  28.) 
l>eiplai,  Sii^.  (187  miles),  the 
83 


Tolono.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Springfield, 


capital  of  Carroll  County,  is  upon  tlie 
Wabash  River ^ which  furnishes  a large 
water-power  by  means  of  a dam,  which 
crosses  the  stream  at  this  point.  The 
surrounding  country  is  fertile,  and  much 
of  its  products  finds  its  way  to  market 
by  the  Wabash  & Erie  Canal^  which 
passes  through  the  town.  Delphi  has 
two  large  paper-mills,  many  fine  build- 
ings, a beautiful  court-house,  about 
2,500  inhabitants,  is  beautifully  situated, 
and  is  a thriving  town. 

Hialayette,  find.  (203  miles), 
the  capital  of  Tippecanoe  County,  and  one 
of  the  principal  cities  in  the  State,  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  high  bottom-land, 
commanding  a fine  view  of  the  Wabash 
River.  It  derives  a large  trade  from  the 
surrounding  country,  which  is  highly  cul- 
tivated, and  enters  largely  into  manufac- 
tures, its  railway  connections  and  the 
Erie&  Wabash  UanaZ  affording  good  facil- 
ities for  the  transportation  of  its  products. 
The  city  is  substantially  built,  and  the 
streets  are  well  paved  with  gravel  or 
Nicolson  pavement.  This  part  of  the 
State  is  noted  for  its  numerous  small 
prairies,  and  beautiful  oak  openings.  The 
Louisville^  JLew  Albany  & Chicago^  and 
the  Indianapolis^  Cincinnati  & Lafayette 
Railways  connect  here.  The  Lafayette^ 
Bloomington  ds  Muncie  Railway  is  nearly 
completed,  and  will  soon  be  ready  for 
the  trains. 

Attica,  Sad*  (224  miles),  on  the 
Wabash  River ^ is  rapidly  gaining  in  busi- 
liess  and  population,  its  prosperity  dating 
from  the  completion  of  the  Wabash  & 
Erie  Canal.  There  are  some  noble  for- 
ests in  this  part  of  the  State. 

^Yilliaiasport,  la^.  (227  miles), 
is  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Wabash  River ^ 
which  is  crossed  by  the  railroad  at  this 
point.  It  is  a thriving  place,  and  the 
capital  of  Warren  County. 

l^aaville.  111.  (250  miles),  the 
capital  of  Vermilion  County,  is  situated 
on  the  Vermilion  River^  which  furnishes 
a good  water-power.  Large  coal-mines 
and  an  abundance  of  timber  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  afford  it  unnusual  ad- 
vantages for  becoming  a prosperous 
manufacturing  town.  The  Indianapolis^ 
Bloomington  Western  Railway  connects 
here. 

Xolono,  111.  (286  miles),  is  a 
84 


rapidly-growing  village.  The  Chicago 
Division  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway 
connects  here. 

Uccatuiir,  111.  (324  miles),  a pros- 
perous place,  containing  many  handsome 
buildings,  is  situated  in  a fine  agricultu- 
ral region.  It  is  the  capital  of  Macon 
County.  A large  rolling-mill  has  recently 
been  erected  here.  The  Main  Line  of 
the  Illinois  Central  Railway  and  the  2h- 
ledo^  Wabash  ds  Western  Railway  connect 
at  Decatur. 

^prlng^lielil.  111.  (362  miles), 
the  capital  of  the  State,  and  the  seat  of 
justice  of  Sangamon  County,  is  a large 
and  handsome  city  on  the  edge  of  a 
beautiful  prairie.  It  is  regularly  laid 
out,  the  streets  are  broad,  and  the  houses 
well  built.  The  city  is  on  a direct  line 
between  Chicago  & St.  Louis,  being  185 
miles  southwest  of  the  former,  and  95 
northeast  of  the  latter  place.  The  State 
government  was  established  here  in  1840. 
The  Hew  State  Capitol^  which  occupies  a 
square  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  con- 
sidered a model  of  architectural  beauty. 
The  State  Arsenal  is  located  here,  and 
there  are  among  other  buildings  a hand- 
some Court-House  and  a United  States 
Court-House  and  Custom-House^  built  at 
a cost  of  $500,000.  Population,  17,364. 

The  Springfield  High  School  is  a fine 
building,  four  stories  high,  the  upper  one 
having  a hall  seating  600  persons.  There 
is  also  a theatre,  and  a commodious  lec- 
ture and  concert  hall. 

Springfield  is  not  only  the  commercial 
centre  of  a fertile  agricultural  region,  but 
also  a manufacturing  and  milling  place. 

The  extensive  shops  of  the  Toledo^ 
Wabash  & Western  Railway  Company 
worth  visiting. 

Leland  Hotels  kept  by  the  well-known 
Leland  brothers,  is  a capital  house. 

Approaching  the  city,  the  traveller 
sees  on  the  right  hand  the  reservoir  of 
the  City  Water  Works^  the  supply-pipe  of 
which,  when  the  pumping-machinery  at 
the  Sangamon  River^  four  miles  distant, 
is  at  work,  appears  like  an  immense  foun- 
tain. It  is  a striking  object,  and,  when 
the  sun  is  shining  on  the  falling  water, 
is  very  beautiful.  The  extensive  build- 
ings of  the  Springfield  Watch  Company 
are  to  be  located  near  this  spot. 

Two  miles  north  of  the  city  is  Ridge 


[Monroe. 


Jacksonville.]  NEW  YORK  TO  OMAHA,  ROUTE  XVI. 


Cemetery^  a picturesque  and  well-kept 
burying-ground,  72  acres  in  extent.  At  its 
southeastern  extremity  six  acres  are  set 
apart  for  the  use  of  the  Lincoln  Monu- 
ment Association,  and  here,  marking  the 
last  resting-place  of  the  late  President, 
there  is  a noble  monument. 

The  following  railways  centre  here: 
Toledo,  Wabash  & Western,  Chicayo 
Alton,  and  the  Springfield  & lllirwis  South- 
eastern, The  Gilman,  Clinton  & Spring- 
Held  and  the  Springfield  <&  Northwestern 
Railways  were  completed  in  the  summer 
of  1871.  The  Springfield  cb  St.  Louis 
Railway  is  soon  to  be  constructed. 

oB'acIfSoiaville,  Sll.  (396  miles), 
noted  for  its  handsome  public  buildings 
and  educational  and  charitable  institu- 
tions, has  thus  been  described  by  a tourist : 

“ It  looks  like  a village  meide  to  order 
at  the  East,  with  neat  houses — some 
wood,  some  brick — with  gardens  filled 
with  flowers  and  shrubbery,  with  wide 
and  cleanly  streets  adorned  with  shade- 
trees,  with  academies,  churches,  and  a 
college,  clustering  about  the  village  cen- 
tre, while  well-tilled  farms  stretch  along 
the  borders  on  every  side.” 

The  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb,  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Blind, 
and  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  are 
all  located  here,  each  being  about  a mile 
from  the  centre  of  the  town.  They  oc- 
cupy, relatively,  three  sides  of  a quad- 
rangle, of  which  the  town  is  the  centre. 
Illinois  College,  an  institution  of  some 
repute,  founded  in  1830,  stands  on  a 
commanding  elevation.  It  has  a good 
library.  Besides  the  common  schools, 
there  are  a Methodist  Female  and  two 
other  academies.  The  Jackson  Division 
of  the  Chicago  & Alton  Railway  and  the 
Peoria,  Pekin  dc  Jacksonville  Railway  con- 
nect here.  Population,  9,203. 

City,  111.  (414  miles).  The 
Quincy  Branch  diverges  here. 

Naples,  Sii.  (418  miles),  is  a pros- 
perous village  on  the  Illinois  River,  which 
the  traveller  crosses  at  this  point.  It 
has  a large  trade,  shipping  by  steamboats 
great  quantities  of  pork,  grain,  etc. 

Slast  Maaail>al,  511.  (483 
miles),  the  actual  terminus  of  the  road, 
*s  on  the  Mississippi  River,  opposite  the 
city  of  Hannibal,  Missouri,  to  which 
point  travellers  cross  to  take  the  cars  of 


the  Hannibal  d;  St.  Joseph  Raihoay.  The 
railroad-bridge  across  the  Mississippi, 
just  finished  at  this  point,  is  one  of  the 
great  works  of  the  present  day.  The 
length  between  the  abutments  is  1,580 
feet.  It  is  18  feet  wide  in  the  clear, 
and  is  intended  for  both  railway  and 
highway  travel.  With  the  exception  of 
the  piers  and  flooring,  the  bridge  is  of 
wrought-iron  throughout.  The  amount 
of  material  used  is  something  enormous : 
400,000  lineal  feet  of  piling,  1,000,000 
feet  of  timber  and  flooring,  10,000  tons 
of  masonry,  10,000  tons  rip-rap,  4,000 
tons  of  concrete,  and  1,350  tons  of 
iron.  The  structure  cost  about  $500,- 
000. 

Mo.  (464  miles),  is  a 
prosperous  and  fast-growing  city  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  153 
miles  above  St.  Louis.  There  are  flour- 
ing-mills,  and  tobacco  and  other  manu- 
factories at  this  place.  Coal  and  carbonif- 
erous limestone  abound  in  the  vicinity, 
and  the  surrounding  country  is  very  fer- 
tile. 

Passengers  for  the  West  take  the 
Hannibal  & St.  Joseph  Railway  here, 
and  connections  are  also  made  with 
the  various  lines  of  river-steamers.  A 
railroad  from  Hannibal  to  St.  Louis  is 
projected. 

l^almyra.  Mo.  (479  miles),  the 
capital  of  Marion  County,  is  a flourishing 
place,  pleasantly  located  about  six  miles 
west  of  the  Mississippi  River.  The 
branch  road  connecting  with  the  Chicago, 
Burlington  d;  Quincy  and  the  Toledo, 
Wabash  do  Western  Railways,  at  Quincy, 
connects  here. 

Mosaa-oe,  Mo.  (494  miles),  is  a 
small  village  in  Monroe  County.  Coal, 
limestone,  and  freestone,  are  found  in  the 
vicinity. 

On  the  11th  of  July,  1861,  the  depot 
and  station-buildings  were  burned  by  the 
Confederate  troops  under  the  command 
of  General  Price.  A detachment  of  Union 
troops  was  obliged  to  take  shelter  in  a 
college  on  the  northeast  side  of  the  town. 
They  there  maintained  a gallant  defence, 
under  the  command  of  Major  Josiah 
Hunt,  until  they  were  relieved  by  the 
arrival  of  a party  of  troops  under  com- 
mand of  Captain  Louis  Souther.  The 
assault  and  defence  of  this  place  was  one 
86 


SlIELBINA.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations 


of  the  most  severe  of  many  affairs  of  the 
kind  which  occurred  along  the  line  of  the 
Ilannihal  cfe  St.  Joseph  Railway. 

Mo.  (611  miles). 
Stages  for  Paris,  the  capital  of  Monroe 
County,  and  Shelbyville,  the  capital  of 
Shelby  County,  connect  at  this  point. 

Macon,  Mo.  (534  miles),  is  the 
crossing  of  the  North  Missouri  Railway, 
now  running  from  Ottumwa,  lo.,  to  St. 
Louis,  Mo. 

ISrooliiiel^,  Mo.  (668  miles), 
situated  in  a fertile  prairie,  was  first 
settled  in  1859,  and,  though  one  of  the 
principal  stations  on  the  road,  is  as  yet 
but  a small  village.  The  railway  com- 
pany has  an  engine-house  and  machine- 
shop  here. 

Clcde,  Mo.  (573  miles),  is  the 
shipping-point  of  a large  and  fertile 
country.  There  is  an  abundance  of  coal 
in  the  vicinity.  Stages  for  Brunswick  on 
the  Western  Division  of  the  North  Mis- 
souri Railway  connect  here. 

Cliillicotlae,  Mo.  (593  miles), 
the  capital  of  Livingston  County,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a prairie.  It  is  on  the  line  of 
a projected  railway  from  St.  Louis  to 
Council  Bluffs,  and  to  Des  Moines,  lo. 

. Stages  for  Trenton,  the  capital  of 
Grundy  County,  Princeton,  the  capital  of 
Mercer  County,  and  for  other  points, 
connect  here. 

MaEnlItoM,  Mo.  (619  miles). 
Stages  for  Richmon(^  on  the  Western 
Division  of  the  North  Missouri  Railway., 
and  Lexington  on  the  Missouri  River., 
connect  at  this  place. 

Cameron,  Mo.  (634  miles),  is  the 
junction  of  the  Cameron  Kansas  City 
Branch,  which  will  eventually  be  extended 
to  Des  Moines,  lo.  A branch  to  Leaven- 
worth is  also  to  diverge  from  this  point. 

^t.  ofoseplt.  Mo.  (662  miles  from 
Toledo,  and  by  the  route  we  have  fol- 
lowed 1,377  from  New  York),  is  the  chief 
city  of  Western  Missouri,  and  is  the  capital 
of  Buchanan  County.  It  is  situated  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Missouri  River,  by  water 
496  miles  above  St.  Louis.  Even  before 
the  days  of  railroads  it  was  one  of  the 
principal  points  of  departure  for  Western- 
bound  emigrants,  and  now  is  of  much 
greater  importance  owing  to  the  system 
of  roads,  completed  and  constructing, 
which  centre  here.  It  was  laid  out  in 
86 


1843.  The  population  is  rapidly  increas- 
ing.  St.  Joseph  (or  St.  Joe,  as  it  is 
generally  called  out  West)  does  consider- 
able manufacturing,  and  is  the  com- 
mercial centre  of  the  adjacent  country 
for  many  miles  around.  It  contains 
some  handsome  buildings.  The  Missouri 
Valley  Railway  and  the  Ka7isas  City,  St. 
Joseph  & Council  Bluffs  Railway  connect 
here,  and  several  others  in  various  direc- 
tions are  rapidly  being  pushed  to  com- 
pletion. 

Prom  St.  Joseph  to  Council  Bluffs  the 
traveller  passes  up  the  Missouri  Yalley 
over  the  track  of  the  Kansas  City,  St. 
Joseph  <Ss  Council  Bluffs  Railway,  but 
none  of  the  stations  are  of  enough  im- 
portance to  be  mentioned. 

Coioacil  IBlwiis,  So.  (792  miles). 
{See  page  74.) 

Omsalna,  Nel>.  (796  miles),  v/ill  be 
described  as  the  first  station  on  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway.  {See  page  95.) 

M O UTE  XVII. 

FROM  ST.LOUm  TO  BERVER  AND 
CHEYENNE. 

Via  Pacific  Railway  of  Missouri.,  Kansas 
Pacific  <&  Benver  Pacific  Railwa/ys. 

PACIFIC  RAILWAY  OF  MISSOURI. 

Stations. — St.  Louis — Cheltenham,  6 
miles  from  St.  Louis;  Laclede,  8 ; Web- 
ster, 10 ; Kirkwood,  13 ; Barrett’s  (con- 
nects with  stages  to  Manchester),  16; 
Meramec,  19  ; St.  Paul,  24 ; Glencoe,  26  ; 
Eureka,  30  ; Allenton,  32  ; Franklin 
(connects  with  South  Pacific  Railway), 
37 ; Gray’s  Summit,  41 ; Labadie,  44  ; 
South  Point,  52  ; Washington,  54  ; Mil- 
ler’s Landing,  67  ; Berger,  75  ; Hermann, 
81  ; Gasconade,  88  ; Chamois,  100 ; St. 
Aubert,  105;  Bonnot’s  Mill,  112;  Osage, 
117 ; Jefferson  City  (connects  with  steam- 
boats for  points  on  Missouri  River),  125  ; 
Centretown,  140  ; California,  150  ; Moni- 
teau, 156;  Tipton  (connects  with  Boon- 
ville  Branch),  162 ; Syracuse,  168 ; Ot- 
terville,  175  ; Sedalia  (connects  with 
stages  to  Springfield),  1 88  ; Dresden,  195  ; 
Knobnoster,  207  ; Warrensburg  (connects 
with  stages  to  Lexington),  218 ; Holden, 
232  ; Kingsville,  236  ; Pleasant  Hill  (con- 
nects with  stages  to  Fort  Scott),  248 ; 


Stations.]  ST.  LOUIS  TO  DENVER,  ETC.,  ROUTE  XYII.  [GascOxNade. 


Lee’s  Summit,  269  ; Little  Blue,  265  ; 
Independence,  2^72 ; Kansas  City  (con- 
nects with  all  railways  centring  here), 
282 ; State  Line  (connects  with  Kansas 
Pacific  Railway),  283  ; Wyandotte,  286. 

KANSAS  PACIFIC  RAILWAY. 
{For  distance  from  St.  Louis^  add  283  miles 
to  distance  given  below.) 

Stations. — Wyandotte — West  Kansas 
City  (connects  with  the  Hannibal  & St. 
Joseph  and  North  Missouri  Railways  for 
St.  Louis  and  Chicago) ; State  Line  (con- 
nects with  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  for 
St.  Louis  and  Chicago) ; Muncy,  8 miles 
from  State  Line ; Secondine,  9 ; Ed- 
wardsville,  13 ; Tiblow,  16 ; Lenape, 
22  ; Stranger,  27 ; Leavenworth  & Lavf- 
rence  Junction,  36  ; Lawrence  (connects 
with  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  & Galveston 
Railway),  38  ; Buck  Creek,  45  ; Perry- 
ville,  61 ; Medina,  52 ; Grantville,  60 ; 
Topeka  (connects  with  Atchison,  Topeka 
& Santa  Fe  Railway),  67 ; Silver  Lake, 
77 ; Rossville,  83  ; St.  Mary’s,  90;  Wa- 
mego,  103;  St.  George,  110;  Manhattan, 
118  ; Ogden,  129  ; Fort  Riley,  136  ; Junc- 
tion City  (connects  with  Missouri,  Kansas 
k Texas  Railway),  138  ; Chapman’s  Creek, 
150;  Abilene,  162  ; Solomon,  171 ; Salina, 
185  ; Brookville,  200 ; Fort  Harker,  218 ; 
Ellsworth,  223  ; Bunker  Hill,  262  ; Wal- 
ker’s, 274 ; Hays,  288  ; Ellis,  302  ; Ogal- 
lah,  312;  Parksfort,  322;  Coyote,  340; 
Grinnell,  364 ; Monument,  385  ; Sheridan, 
405 ; Wallace,  420  ; Cheyenne  Wells, 
462 ; Kit  Carson  (connects  with  the 
Southern  Overland  Mail  and  Express  Com- 
pany’s daily  line  of  coaches  for  Fort 
Lyons,  Pueblo,  Trinidad,  Los  Vegas, 
Santa  Fe,  and  all  points  in  New  Mexico 
and  Arizona),  487  ; Hugo,  634 ; River 
Bend,  555  ; Agate,  572 ; Denver  Pacific 
Junction,  636 ; Denver  (connects  v/ith 
Denver  Pacific  Railway),  639. 

DENVER  PACIFIC  RAILWAY. 
{For  distances  from  St.  Louis.,  add  922 
miles  to  distance  given  below.) 

Stations.  — Denver,  643  miles  from 
State  Line  ; Hughes,  630  ; Johnson,  645  ; 
Evans,  661  ; Greeley,  665  ; Pierce,  680 ; 
Carr,  699 ; Summit  Siding,  709 ; Cheyenne 
^connects  with  Union  Pacific  Railway), 
719. 


Moo,  is  fully  described 

in  Route  VII. 

Mo.  (10  miles),  a flour- 
ishing village  of  about  1,200  inhabitants, 
is  the  first  settlement  worth  notice  west 
of  St.  Louis,  on  the  Missouri  Pacific  Rail- 
way. Its  principal  marketable  product 
are  grapes,  of  which  it  raises  large  quan- 
tities. Land  in  the  neighborhood  is 
worth  about  $800  per  acre. 

Mirlcwoo^,  Mo.  (13  miles),  is  a 
favorite  country  residence  with  St.  Louis 
merchants,  who  have  expended  much 
money  in  beautifying  their  houses  and 
grounds.  The  population  is  about  2,500. 
The  country  around  is  thickly  settled. 
The  price  of  improved  land  is  from  $500 
to  $1,500  per  acre. 

Mo.  (37  miles),  formerly 
called  Franklin,  is  a growing  town.  Here 
the  South  Pacific  Railway  branches  off 
for  Springfield  and  Southwestern  Mis- 
souri, and  is  open  for  300  miles.  A fine 
quality  of  white  sand  is  found  here,  and 
is  shipped  in  large  quantities  to  Pitts- 
burg, for  the  manufacture  of  glass.  The 
inhabitants  are  mostly  Germans.  The 
surrounding  country  is  rocky  and  broken, 
and  ill  adapted  to  agriculture. 

"WsasliiiigtOM,  Mo.  (54  miles),  is 
a pretty  place  of  3,700  inhabitants,  on  the 
Missouri  River.  It  contains  eight  churches 
and  the  same  number  of  public  schools. 
Almost  every  man  here  owns  his  own 
house  and  lot. 

Mermsooi,  Mo.  (81  miles),  the 
capital  of  Gasconade  County,  is  situated 
on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Missouri 
River.  It  was  settled  in  1838,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  German  Settlement  So- 
ciety of  Philadelphia.  Grapes  are  ex- 
tensively cultivated,  and  in  1870  upward 
of  500,000  gallons  of  wine,  of  good  quali- 
ty, were  manufactured.  Land  within  a 
circuit  of  six  miles  is  valued  at  from  $25 
to  $75  per  acre. 

^ascoiasa^e,  a flag-station,  seven 
miles  west,  has  been  rendered  historical 
through  a terrible  accident  that  occurred 
there  on  the  opening  of  the  road  to  Jef- 
ferson City.  The  passenger-train  was 
the  first  on  the  road,  and  among  the 
excursionists  were  many  prominent  resi- 
dents of  St.  Louis.  As  the  cars  were 
crossing  the  new  bridge  over  the  Gascon- 
ade River,  the  timbers  gave  way,  pre- 


Jefferson  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Independence. 


cipitating  the  engine  and  all  but  one  car 
into  the  water,  a distance  of  over  50  feet. 

•feiSersoii  City,  Mo.  (126  miles), 
is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Missouri  and 
of  Cole  County.  It  is  beautifully  situated 
on  high  bluffs,  and  commands  a fine  view 
of  the  river  for  miles  above  and  below 
the  city.  During  the  session  of  the  State 
Legislature  its  streets  present  an  ani- 
mated appearance.  It  has  a population 
of  about  7,000  inhabitants.  The  Capitol 
is  a fine  structure,  of  limestone,  erected 
in  1836.  The  State  Penitentiary  is  large 
and  well  built.  The  city  is  laid  out  at 
right  angles,  and  has  some  handsome 
business  blocks  and  residences.  Coal  is 
found  in  abundance  in  the  neighborhood, 
which  is  well  settled  and  cultivated. 
Most  of  the  new  settlers  are  Germans. 

Mo.  (150  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Moniteau  County,  and  one 
of  the  oldest  towns  along  the  railway 
line.  It  was  laid  out  in  1845,  and  chris- 
tened Boonsborough.  Two  years  later  it 
changed  this  for  its  present  name.  The 
population  is  about  2,500.  The  settlers 
are  mostly  of  Teutonic  extraction.  The 
town  suffered  greatly  during  the  late  war, 
at  the  time  of  Price’s  raid  the  Confeder- 
ates destroying  the  depot  and  other 
buildings.  The  new  Court-House,  erected 
in  1868,  cost  $52,000.  The  country  around 
California  is  good,  but  sparsely  settled. 

’Fiptoai,  Mo*  (162  miles),  is  a small 
place,  surrounded  by  a thickly-settled 
farming  district.  The  Boonville  Branch 
of  the  Pacific  Railway  starts  from  here, 
and  runs  to  the  Missouri  River,  a distance 
of  28  miles.  Parm-land  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Tipton  is  worth  about  $35  per 
acre. 

^cdssblia.  Mo.  (188  miles),  is  now 
the  most  Important  point  of  business  on 
the  railroad  between  St.  Louis  and  Kan- 
sas City.  The  town,  which  is  built  on  a 
beautiful  rolling  prairie,  is  laid  out  at 
right  angles,  and  has  a prosperous  ap- 
pearance. It  is  very  near  the  centre  of 
Pettis  County,  of  which  it  is  the  capital. 
The  population  is  about  6,000.  The  first 
house  was  built  in  1860.  The  following 
year,  the  railroad  reached  Sedalia,  which 
was  its  terminus  for  three  years.  During 
the  war  a military  post  'was  established, 
from  which  troops  and  supplies  were 
f;rrwarded  to  the  West  and  Southwest. 

88 


The  town  is  lighted  by  gas,  has  a hand- 
some opera-house,  and  many  first-class 
improvements.  Sedalia  is  the  end  of  the 
Eastern  Division  of  the  Pacific  road. 
The  T'eho  and  Neosho  Railway  is  now 
completed  from  this  place  to  Fort  Scott, 
Kansas.  The  Missouri,  Kansas  k Texas 
Railway  commences  at  Sedalia,  and  ex- 
tends to  Houston  and  Galveston. 

Miio‘a>iiostei-9  Mo.  (207  miles), 
is  a small  but  well-improved  place.  It  is 
named  after  the  beautiful  mound  upon 
which  it  is  built,  and  from  which  can  be 
seen  villages  and  farms  for  many  miles 
around.  There  are  large  coal-mines  in 
the  neighborhood.  Land  is  worth  about 
$35  per  acre. 

Mo.  (217  miles), 
is  a flourishing  place  of  4,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  the  capital  of  Johnson  County.  It 
is  35  years  old,  but  was  almost  without 
life  until  the  railroad  was  constructed ; 
since  then  the  whole  county  has  in- 
creased in  population  over*300  per  cent. 
WarrensbuTg  is  a large  wheat-depot,  and 
has  a steam-elevator  of  great,  capacity. 

No  county  in  Missouri  is  better  adapted 
for  the  raising  of  cereals  than  Johnson. 
Land  is  worth  from  $15^o  $40  per  acre. 

Molclesa,  (232  miles),  was 

located  on  the  line  of  the  Pacific  road  in 
1858;  but  during  the  war  all  the  prin- 
cipal buildings  Vere  destroyed.  . In  the 
summer  of  1865  it  was  resurveyed,  and 
has  grown  to  be  one  of  .the  liveliest  points 
along  the  road.  It  has  now  a population  , 
of  about  3,000,  and  .a  large,  trade.  It  is 
surrounded  by  fine  prairie  farm-lands. 

Mill,  Mo.  (248  miles),  ' 
is  beautifully  situated  in  the  extreme 
northeast  corner  of  Cass  "County,  on  an 
eminence  that  commands  a good  view  ' 
the  rich  farm-lands  around.  It  is  ma^e 
up  of  three  parts,  old  town,  middle  town, 
and  new  town.  It  is  noted  for  its  churches, 
of  which  it  has  seven,  although  the  popu- 
lation is  only  about  3,000.  Harrisohville,  ' ‘ 
the  capital  of  the  county,  lies  12  mSSs  * 
south.  ■ 

ILce’s  Saisamit,  Mo.  (259  miles), 
is  a thriving  town  in  one  of  the  richest 
parts  of  Jackson  County.  Land  in  the 
neighborhood  is  worth  from  $40  to  $70 
per  acre. 

Independence,  Mo.  (272 
miles),  is  the  capital  of  Jackson  County, T 


Kansas  City.]  ST.  LOUIS  TO  DENVER,  ETC.,  ROUTE  XVII.  [Wyandotte. 


and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque places  in  the  State.  It  was  first 
settled  in  1827,  and  for  many  years  was 
an  outfitting  point  for  the  New-Mexican 
and  Indian  trade.  During  the  war,  it 
was  twice  taken  by  the  Confederates. 
The  population  is  about  3,500.  Inde- 
pendence was  once  settled  by  the  Mor- 
mons, who  called  it  the  seat  of  the  New 
Jerusalem.  E.  T.  Aubrey  landed  here 
after  his  celebrated  John  Gilpin  ride 
from  Santa  Ee,  New  Mexico.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  fast  becoming  set- 
tled, and  is  dotted  all  over  with  hand- 
some dwellings. 

Mo.  (282  miles), 
is  the  most  important  commercial  point 
along  the  Kansas  J^acific  Railroad^  and  is 
the  second  city  in  the  State.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Southern  bank  of  the  Missouri 
River ^ just  below  the  mouth  of  the  Kaw 
River ^ and  adjoining,  the  boundary-line 
of  Kansas  and  Missouri.  Despite  its 
almost  intermiriable*  hills  and  hollows,  it 
has  many  natural  advantages,  and  for 
nearly  a hundred  miles  is  surrounded  by 
rich  farming  lands  which  are  being  rapidly 
settled  and  improved.  Its  geographical 
position  is  very  fi^orable,  and,  with  its 
railroads,  increa^g  tode,  and  other 
•advantage,  makes  it  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  and  promising  cities  of  the 
West.  ^ * 

Kansas  City  was  laid  out  in  1830;  its 
. growth  was  slo^  until  1856,  when  it  began 
•to  improve  rapidly.  In  1860  the  popula- 
tion was  4,418,  and  in  1870  it  was  32,296. 
At  the  breaking  out  ofthe  war  it  was  about 
7,000  ; but,  for  the  four  years  following, 
.the  growth  of  the  city  was  stayed,  its 
avenues  of  tradeiDlockaded,  and  its  com- 
nlerce  almost  crushed  out. 

With  peace  came  prosperity,  however, 
and  its  advance  since  1865  has  been  a 
marvel  to  all.  Kansas  City  has  the 
honor  of  having  built  the  first  bridge 
%icross  the  Missouri,  which  it  did  at  a 
oost^  $1,000,000.  This  bridge,  which 
has  seven  piers,  four  of  them  resting  on 
the  rocky  bed  of  the  river,  is  1,387  feet 
long. 

Kansas  City  is  the  terminus  of  eight 
»ilways : the  Missouri  Pacific^  running 
to  SK  Louis  ; the  Missouri  River  Railway^ 
mnning  to  Atchison ; the  West  Branch 
9fihe  North  Missouri^  running  to  Moberly ; 


the  Missouri  River ^ Fort  Scott  & Gulf 
Railway^  running  to  Baxter’s  Springs ; 
the  Kansas  City^  St.  Joseph  & Council 
Bluffs  Road^  running  to  Council  Bluffs  ; 
the  Kansas  Pacific^  running  to  Denver ; 
the  Kansas  City  do  Cameron  Road^  run- 
ning to  Cameron ; and  the  Kansas  City 
S Santa  Fe  Railway.^  now  completed  as 
far  as  Coffyville,  Eranklin  County,  Kan- 
sas ; making  in  all  nearly  3,000  miles  of 
railway  terminating  at  this  point.  The 
roads  now  building  are  the  Kansas  City  S 
Memphis  and  Louisiana  dc  Missouri  River ^ 
and  two  or  three  others  are  projected. 

The  following  is  a condensed  exhibit 
of  the  business  for  1870 : Bank  deposits, 
$85,125,250  ; exchange  sold,  $30,000,000; 
number  of  buildings  erected,  1,100,  at  a 
cost  of  $4,000,000  ; amount  of  real  estate 
transfers,  $5,427,846.64;  eleven  miles 
of  sidewalk  been  built ; seven  miles  of 
streets  graded ; 750,000  tons  of  freight 
received  ; the  wholesale  and  retail  trade 
amounted  to  $40,000,000  ; total  amount 
of  manufactures,  $12,000,000 ; and 
$115,026.58  was  assessed  as  special 
revenue  tax. 

The  educational  facilities  of  Kansas 
City  are  excellent ; every  ward  has  a 
substantial  brick  public  school-house. 
There  are  two  theatres  besides  the  opera- 
house;  and  the  hotels,  churches,  busi- 
ness-blocks, and  suburban  residences,  will 
compar.e  favorably  with  those  of  cities  of 
greater  age. 

Wyaiaclotte,  Mas.  (285  miles), 
the  capital  of  Wyandotte  County,  the 
first  town  in  Kansas  on  the  Union  Pacific 
Road^  is  pleasantly  situated.  It  was  for 
some  time  the  terminus  of  the  Kansas 
Pacific.^  but  is  now  only  a way  station. 
The  population  is  about  3,000.  The 
country  immediately  surrounding  the 
place  is  hilly  and  somewhat  broken,  but 
back  from  the  river  it  is  excellent.  A 
good  bridge  spans  the  Kaw  River  at  this 
point.  Wyandotte  was  first  laid  out  in 
1855,  when  “paper  towns”  were  the 
great  rage  in  Kansas. 

Two  hundred  years  ago,  the  great 
Wyandotte  nation  dwelt  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Erie,  although  scarcely  fifty  years 
since,  driven  westward  by  the  inroads  of 
civilization,  they  lived  on  the  banks  of 
the  Missouri,  at  this  point.  There  is  a 
legend  of  a far-famed  beauty  in  the  tribe, 
89 


Lawrence.] 


WESTERN  TOUR 


[St.  Mary’s  Mission. 


who  attracted  many  lovers,  but  none 
could  move  her  obdurate  heart.  At  last 
a stalwart  chief  laid  siege  to  her  affec- 
tions. Scores  of  scalps  hung  from  his 
belt,  and  he  bore  the  scars  of  many  a 
hard-fought  battle.  Before  this  ardent 
wooer  the  dusky  beauty  relented ; but 
she  would  accept  him  only  upon  solemn 
promise  to  do  a deed  which  she  was  to 
name  after  he  should  assume  the  obliga- 
tion. It  was  rash,  but  he  took  the  vow. 
Then  she  made  her  demand.  He  must 
bring  her  the  scalp  of  a Seneca  chief,  his 
friend  and  the  ally  of  his  nation.  En- 
treaties and  remonstrances  were  in  vain, 
her  hate  was  stronger  than  her  pity.  It 
was  hard,  but  the  old  brave  had  sworn 
by  his  great  medicine,  and,  like  young 
Melnotte,  he  kept  his  oath.  He  brought 
the  coveted  scalp  to  this  modern  Hero- 
dias  ; but  the  wanton  murder  inaugurated 
a bloody  war  which  outlasted  the  siege 
of  Troy.  It  continued  for  more  than 
thirty  years,  greatly  reduced  the  Wyan- 
dottes,  and  almost  exterminated  the 
Senecas. 

The  late  Albert  D.  Richardson,  who 
tells  this  story,  asks,  “ Why  are  the  banks 
of  the  Sandusky  less  classic  than  the 
shores  of  the  Hellespont  ? Why  are 
Senecas  and  Wyandottes  forgotten,  and 
Greeks  and  Trojans  immortal  ? The  war 
of  the  former  was  three  times  longer, 
greater,  more  romantic.  But  the  Homer 
was  wanting  to  sing  its  epic.” 

BLiawremce,  Mas.  (320  miles), 
the  capital  of  Douglas  County,  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Kansas  River. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  towns  of 
the  West,  and  has  considerable  impor- 
tance, having  a population  of  about  10,000. 
It  was  first  settled  in  1854  by  a colony  of 
New-Englanders,  and  a few  years  later 
was  the  scene  of  much  bloodshed  be- 
tween these  and  the  “ Border  Ruffians.” 
On  the  21st  of  August,  1863,  there  was  a 
frightful  massacre  by  a band  of  Quan- 
trell’s  guerillas,  who  surprised  the  town, 
killing  some  150  persons,  and  burning 
about  75  buildings.  The  enterprising 
citizens  soon  recovered  from  this  calam- 
ity, in  less  than  a year  erecting  new  and 
finer  houses  in  the  place  of  those  de- 
stroyed, and  building  many  others.  The 
Stale  University^  a handsome  edifice,  is 
situated  on  Mount  Oread,  overlooking 
00 


the  city.  A bridge,  built  at  a cost  of 
$45,000,  crosses  the  river. 

Two  miles  before  reaching  Lawrence, 
the  Kansas  dh  Pacific  Railvcay  connects 
with  the  Leavenworth^  Lawrence  dc  GaU 
veston  Railway.  The  latter  is  open  144 
miles  to  Parker,  Southern  Kansas.  Doug- 
las County  is  well  settled,  and  contains 
some  of  the  most  fertile  land  in  the 
State.  A new  line  of  railway  is  nov;"  be- 
ing built  from  Lawrence  to  Pleasant 
Hill,  Mo.,  which  will  give  almost  an  air- 
line to  St.  Louis.  North  Lawrence  is  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  surrounds 
the  depot. 

"Fopelca,  Mas.  (350  miles),  the 
capital  of  Kansas,  and  the  seat  of  justice  of 
Shawnee  County,  is  beautifully  situated  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Kansas  River.  Tho 
State-House.,  which  cost  $400,000,  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  West,  and  large  enough 
to  serve  as  such  for  many  years  to  come. 
The  city  is  well  laid  out,  and  has,  among 
other  fine  buildings,  Lincoln  College,  one  of 
the  leading  educational  establishments  in 
the  State,  and  the  Topeka  Female  Institute, 
which  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Epis- 
copal Church.  The  school  system  of 
Kansas  is  unsurpassed  by  that  of  any 
Western  State.  Persons  desiring  to  buy 
land  in  Kansas  shoul(T  go  to  Topeka, 
where  the  principal  U.  S.  Land  Office  is 
situated.  The  population  is  about  8,000, 
nearly  6,000  being  negroes.  The  Atchi- 
son, Topeka  do  Santa  Fe  Railway,  now 
finished  as  far  as  Sargent,  417  miles  from 
Topeka,  diverges  here. 

Topeka  is  an  Indian  name,  and  signifies 
“ potatoes.”  It  has  certainly  outgrown 
the  sobriquet  of  “ small  potatoes,”  and 
become  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
towns  in  Kansas.  The  country  which  is 
around  the  celebrated  Potawatamie  In- 
dian reservation  is  very  rich,  and  is  be- 
ing settled  up  rapidly.  The  bridge  over 
the  Kaw  River  cost  $70,000.  A fine  capi- 
tol  is  building,  at  a cost  of  $3,000,000. 

Mai-y’s  Mission,  Mas. 
(373  miles),  is  so  called  from  the  Catholic 
school,  for  the  education  of  the  Indian 
youth,  which  is  established  here.  It  is 
the  centre  of  the  “ Potawatamie  Indian 
Reservation,”  a rich  agricultural  district 
about  thirty  miles  square.  The  mission 
was  established  in  1848  by  the  Jesuits. 
About  2,000  of  that  Potawatamie  tri\|e 


Wamego.]  ST.  LOUIS  TO  DENVER,  ETC.,  ROUTE  XVII.  [Solomon  City. 


reside  near  it,  many  of  their  children  at- 
tending the  school.  It  is  purposed  to 
build  a Catholic  seminary  hero,  at  a cost 
of  $100,000.  Excellent  land  in  the 
neighborhood  can  be  bought  for  from 
$5  to  $15  per  acre. 

Wamego,  Mas.  (33G  miles),  is 
the  end  of  the  first  division  of  the  Kansas 
Pacific  Railway,  and  is  quite  a thriving 
little  place.  It  is  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Kaw  River,  near  the  southern  line 
of  Potawataraie  County.  The  town 
was  laid  out  in  the  summer  of  1866,  by 
the  employes  of  the  Kansas  Pacific 
Railway  Company.  It  is  named  after  a 
distinguished  chief  of  the  tribe  whose 
bones  now  rest  in  the  reservation. 

Msas.  (393  miles), 
is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Black  Jack  Creek^ 
from  which  it  receives  a valuable  water- 
power, which  is  added  to  by  the  fall  in 
the  Kansas  River  at  this  point.  The 
town  has  become  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant points  on  the  road  as  a grain-depot. 
It  is  surrounded  by  rich  and  beautiful 
farming  land,  and  bluffs  which  are  admi- 
rably adapted  to  the  culture  of  the  grape, 
and  furnish  the  finest  building-stone  on 
cither  side  of  the  river. 

Maialaattsan,  Mas.  (401  miles), 
the  capital  of  Riley  County,  lies  at  the 
junction  of  the  Big  Blue  and  the  Kansas 
RiverSy  and  is  a flourishing  place.  The 
Agricultural  College  is  located  here.  Five 
miles  above  the  town,  there  is  a fine 
water-power  on  the  Blue  River.  Manhat- 
tan is  one  of  the  oldest  and  one  of 
the  handsomest  places  in  the  State. 
It  was  laid  out  in  1854.  The  loca- 
tion is  beautiful,  being  in  a rich  val- 
ley, which  is  walled  in  by  a circular  range 
of  high  bluffs.  The  buildings  are  princi- 
pally of  stone.  In  the  northern  portion 
of  the  county  are  large  settlements  of 
Germans  and  Swedes.  Land  is  worth 
from  $10  to  $50  per  acre. 

<[>§■^0319  Mas.  (412  miles),  is  a well- 
built  town,  surrounded  by  a fine  agri- 
cultural and  grazing  country.  There  are 
good  stone-quarries  in  the  neighborhood. 

ISiley,  Mas.  (418  miles),  is 
a military  post,  at  the  junction  of  the 
two  main  branches  of  the  Kansas  River 
(called  Republican  and  Smoky  Hill  Forks). 
It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a fertile 
country  v»^hich  abounds  in  timber,  build- 


ing-materials, good  water  and  grass.  It 
is  used  as  a receiving  and  refitting  rendez- 
vous for  troops  going  farther  West. 
Near  this  place  there  is  a Methodist  mis- 
sion. A splendid  military  road  which 
commences  at  Fort  Leavenworth  passes 
through  Fort  Riley.  The  fort  contains 
quarters  for  1,200  men,  and  has  until  re- 
cently been  used  as  an  artillery-school. 
The  military  reservation  for  this  post  is 
25,000  acres,  5,000  of  which  has  been 
given  toward  bridging  the  Republican 
River. 

•Fiinctioia  City,  Mas.  (421 
miles),  the  capital  of  Davis  County,  is 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Kansas 
Rivery  near  the  mouth  of  the  Republican. 
It  is  a place  of  active  business,  and  has  a 
United  States  Land-Oifice.  The  valleys 
of  the  Smoky  HiU  RiveVy  along  which  the 
railway  continues  its  course,  are  very 
productive.  In  the  bluffs  near  the  town 
large  beds  of  magnesian  limestone  are 
found,  and  rich  quarries  from  which  a 
fine,  light-colored  stone,  somewhat  like 
marble  in  appearance,  is  obtained.  The 
Missouriy  Kansas  & Texas  Railway  con- 
nects at  Junction  City,  and  is  now  com- 
pleted to  Denison,  Texas,  where  it  con- 
nects with  the  Texas  Central.  Junction 
City  was  laid  out  in  1858,  and  has  now  a 
population  of  about  2,500.  There  is  no 
finer  town-site  along  the  whole  road.  It 
is  the  centre  of  a large  net-work  of  small 
villages,  whose  intervening  hills  make  up 
a scene  that  is  both  picturesque  and 
grand.  {See  Appendix.) 

Al>ile2ie,  Mas.  (445  miles),  the 
capital  of  Dickinson  County,  lies  in  the 
Smoky  Valley,  which  is  here  wide  and 
fertile,  and  affords  excellent  grazing. 
With  the  larger  cattle-dealing  firms  it  is 
a favorite  point  of  concentration  and 
shipment  to  the  East  for  Mexican  and 
Texan  cattle. 

^oioii&osi  City,  Mas.  (454 
miles),  is  an  enterprising  little  town  on 
the  north  bank  of  Solomon  Rivery  one  of 
the  chief  branches  of  Smoky  Hill  Rivery 
heading  near  the  base  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  for  more  than  250  miles 
flowing  through  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
valleys  in  Kansas.  A New-Englander 
has  engaged  here  in  the  extensive  manu- 
facture of  salt.  In  some  places  the 
water  is  almost  pure  brine.  The  sur 
91 


Fort  IIays.] 


^YESTERN  TOUR. 


[Denver. 


rounding  country  is  bottom-land  and  fine 
rolling  prairie. 

(468  miles),  the 
capital  of  Salina  County,  is  situated  on 
the  Smoky  Hill  Fork  of  the  Kansas 
River,  in  the  midst  of  a fine  agricultural 
country,  abounding  in  rich  saline  springs 
and  inexhaustable  quarries  of  gypsum. 
It  is  destined  to  be  the  great  shipping- 
point  for  the  productive  valley  of  the 
Salina  River^  and  for  the  fertile  country 
south  of  it  along  the  Smoky  Hill.  South 
of  the  city  a large  colony  of  thrifty  Swedes 
is  settled,  owning  15,000  acres  of  rich 
railway  lands  ; and  lying  to  the  east  is  a 
colony  of  Scotchmen,  who  have  purchased 
46,000  acres  of  railway  lands.  Under 
the  hands  of  such  desirable  colonists  this 
section  of  the  State  is  bound  to  prosper 
greatly.  The  town  was  located  in  1858. 
This  section  of  the  country  is  particularly 
well  adapted  for  grazing. 

(483  miles), 

is  the  end  of  the  second  division  of  the 
Kansas  Pacific  Railway,  and  a fine  rail- 
way depot  is  building  here.  A few 
miles  above  it  is  the  promising  little 
town  of  Bavaria,  originally  settled  by  a 
colony  from  Ohio.  Both  are  small  towns, 
and  have  no  local  trade,  the  country 
around  being  unsettled,  save  by  prairie- 
dog  villages. 

Mairlcei.%  Mas.  (501  miles), 
one  of  the  military  depots  for  the  forts 
on  the  Arkansas,  has  accommodations 
for  500  men.  It  is  a well-built  post. 

®lllswoi*tSa9  Mas.  (506  miles),  is 
situated  in  a fine  stock-raising  and  a fair 
farming  country,  directly  upon  the  north 
bend  of  the  Smoky  Hill  River, 

Mays,  Mas.  (571  miles), 
an  important  military  point  in  the  west- 
ern part  of  the  State,  is  situated  upon 
the  plains,  and  has  a fine  position.  Op- 
posite, upon  Big  Creek^  is  Hays  City,  the 
centre  of  the  buffalo  range.  The  tourist 
who  wishes  to  try  his  skill  in  hunting 
“ the  monarch  of  the  plains,’’  can  have  an 
opportunity  of  doing  so  by  stopping  at 
this  point.  Fort  Lamed,  Camp  Supply, 
and  Fort  Dodge,  get  their  mails  and  gov- 
ernment supplies  from  here.  Fort  Hays  is 
built  on  a commanding  elevation,  and  is 
one  of  the  handsomest  posts  in  the  West. 
With  the  exception  of  a stone  block-house, 
the  buildings  are  of  wood,and  very  neat. 

92 


Mas.  (688  miles),  is 
on  the  north  fork  of  the  Smoky  Hill 
River.  It  was  formerly  of  some  impor- 
tance as  the  terminus  of  the  Kansas 
Pacific  Railway,  and  had  a population  of 
about  1,000  souls  ; but  the  iron  track,  in 
passing  into  the  region  beyond,  has  left 
Sheridan  only  a town  in  name. 

^¥allace.  Mas.  (703 
miles),  is  an  important  military  post,  and 
a good  base  for  operations.  It  is  a short 
distance  from  the  road,  and  is  built  of 
flesh-colored  stone,  which  gives  it  a very 
striking  appearance.  It  is  near  the 
western  boundary-line  of  Kansas. 

Mit  CarsoBi,  Col.  (770  miles), 
named  after  the  great  “ Pathfinder,”  is 
situated  on  Sand  Creek^  about  20  miles 
above  the  spot  where  Colonel  Chiving- 
ton’s  great  Indian  massacre  took  place. 
At  present  this  is  the  shipping-point  for 
goods  going  to  New  Mexico  and  South- 
ern Colorado,  and  there  are  three  large 
commission-houses  to  do  the  business. 
Government  also  has  a warehouse  here 
for  military  stores.  The  place  is  pictu- 
resque with  “ prairie  schooners.”  In  the 
neighborhood  is  scarcely  any  thing  but 
sand-banks,  and  the  only  business  the 
place  has,  is  that  furnished  by  the 
freighters. 

Kit  Carson  was  formerly  the  terminus 
of  the  railway.  Large  warehouses  were 
built  here,  and  the  place  grew  rapidly  for 
a time.  Now  Denver  is  the  great  central 
point  of  Colorado. 

Between  Kit  Carson  and  Denver  there 
are  three  or  four  “ station  towns,”  and 
the  country  along  the  line  of  the  railway 
is  rapidly  filling  up. 

l>eiivei*9  Col.  (922  miles),  in  point 
of  rapid  growth  and  substantial  prosperi- 
ty, is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  cities 
in  the  Great  West.  It  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated on  a plain  at  the  junction  of  Cherry 
Creek,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  South 
Platte  River,  15  miles  from  the  foot  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  5,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  site  of  the  city  occupies 
a series  of  plateaus  rising  in  steps  by 
gentle  and  slight  ascents  from  the  river. 
It  faces  the  great  mountain-chain.  The 
view  from  the  city  and  its  vicinity  is 


* Tho  white-covered  emigrant  wagons  are  so 
called. 


Denver.] 


ST.  LOUIS  TO  DENVER,  ETC.,  ROUTE  XVII. 


[Greelet. 


grand  in  the  extreme.  Through  the 
clear  mountain  atmosphere  may  be  seen 
Pike's  and  Long's  Peaks^  and  the  snow- 
capped range  extending  more  than  200 
miles,  its  rich  purple  streaked  with  daz- 
zling white,  and  here  and  there  draped  in 
soft,  transparent  haze. 

Denver  is  the  commercial  centre  of  Colo- 
rado ; it  closely  resembles  Springfield,  Mas- 
sachusetts. The  city  is  compactly  built, 
and  its  rows  of  handsome  brick  houses, 
fine  hotels,  banks,  theatres,  residences, 
and  school-buildings,  fill  the  stranger  with 
wonder  ; for  the  first  settlement  was  only 
made  in  1858,  and  the  municipal  govern- 
ment was  not  organized  until  the  winter 
of  1859.  All  the  offices  of  the  territorial 
government,  surveyor-general’s  and  land- 
offices,  the  headquarters  of  the  military 
district,  and  the  depots  of  arms  and  sup- 
plies, are  located  here. 

The  principal  buildings  are  the  Colorado 
Seminary^  costing  $20,000 ; eight  church- 
es costing  from  $5,000  to  $24,000  each  ; 
a United  Stales  Branch  Mint^  costing 
$75,000,  and  a Roman  Catholic  Academy. 
There  are  also  three  private  and  two 
public  schools,  six  banks,  and  three 
newspapers,  one  of  which,  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Herald^  ably  conducted  by  0. 
J.  Goldrick,  has  the  largest  circulation 
throughout  the  Territories  of  any  paper 
published  between  Omaha  and  San  Fran- 
cisco. Manufactories  are  not  yet  very 
extensive,  but  are  increasing  in  impor- 
tance. The  gross  sales  of  merchandise  at 
Denver  for  the  year  1870  amounted  to 
over  $11,000,000,  and  it  is  claimed  that 
there  is  now  no  finer  market  than  this 
in  the  West  for  all  classes  of  goods, 
wines,  etc. 

Various  lines  of  best  Concord  coaches 
run  daily  between  Denver  and  the  twenty 
county  towns  of  the  territory,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  five  lines  of  railway  now 
running  in  and  out  of  Denver.  Of  these 
towns,  the  more  important  ones  are: 
Central.^  35  miles  west ; Georgetown.,  45 
miles  west;  Puehlo.,  100  miles  south; 
Trinidad,  150  miles  south  ; Boulder.,  27 
miles  northwest;  Golden.,  15  miles  west; 
Greeley.,  50  miles  north ; Fairplay.,  100 
miles  southwest;  and  Canon  City.,  120 
miles  southwest.  Five  railways  diverge 
from  Denver : the  Denver  Pacific.,  via 
Cheyenne  and  Omaha,  to  both  the  Atlantic 


and  Pacific  coasts  ; the  Kansas  Pacific., 
via  Kansas  City,  to  the  East ; the  Colorado 
Central  to  the  mountain-mines,  via  Golden 
City ; the  Boidder  Valley  to  the  north- 
western mines,  via  Boulder  City ; and  the 
Denver  & Rio  Grande  (narrow  gauge), 
now  completed  to  Pueblo,  100  miles  from 
Denver,  and  will  be  extended  southward 
to  a connection  with  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railway  across  the  continent. 

This  is  the  point  of  departure  of  the 
Southern  Overland  Mail  and  Express  Com- 
pany's line  of  coaches  for  Pueblo,  Trini- 
dad, Las  Vegas,  Santa  Fe,  and  all  points 
in  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  Chihuahua, 
Sonora,  and  the  far  Southwest. 

Taking  the  comfortable  coaches  of  the 
Denver  Pacific  Railway  we  regretfully 
leave  Denver  behind  and  dash  over  the 
rich  valley  of  the  Platte.,  catching  a 
glimpse  of  Golden  City.,  14  miles  to  the 
left,  under  the  mountains.  After  riding 
48  miles  through  this  beautiful  country, 
following  the  course  of  the  river  and 
passing  the  small  stations  of  Hughes  and 
Johnson.,  and  the  numerous  ranches  which 
are  springing  up  on  each  side  of  the  track, 
we  cross  the  river  by  a trestle-bridge, 
about  1,000  feet  in  length. 

Evans,  <DoI.  (661  miles),  was  for 
some  months  the  terminus  of  the  road. 
It  is  prettily  situated,  and  will  probably 
become  an  important  place,  as  the  Big 
and  Little  Thompson  Valleys  must  of  ne- 
cessity become  tributary  to  it. 

Col.  (665  miles),  to  the 
left  of  the  Platte  River.,  but  still  in  sight 
of  the  cottonwood-trees  upon  its  banks, 
is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  instances  of 
sudden  yet  permanent  growth  to  be 
found  in  the  West.  It  was  settled  on  the 
25th  of  April,  1870,  by  a colony  headed 
by  Mr,  N.  C.  Meeker,  formerly  agri- 
cultural editor  of  the  New  York  Tribune., 
and  in  a little  over  three  months  num- 
bered 250  houses  and  1,200  inhabit- 
ants as  permanent  residents.  It  is  situ- 
ated in  the  valley  bounded  by  the  Cache 
d la  Poudre  River  and  the  Platte  River. 
It  is  supplied  with  water  through  a canal 
from  the  Cache  d la  Poudre  River,  12 
miles  distant,  and  now  has  churches, 
stores,  school-houses,  a weekly  paper, 
etc.,  etc. 

The  Cache  d la  Poudre  is  crossed  soon 
after  leaving  the  town.  It  is  a clear 
93 


Cheyenne.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations. 


mountain-stream,  rising  near  Long’s  Peak, 
and  traversing  a valley  so  rich  that  for 
50  miles  the  farms  upon  its  banks  are 
contiguous.  The  road  here  leaves  the 
rich  bottom-land  and  crosses  over  a 
part  of  the  tract  known  as  the  Great 
American,  Desert^  and,  until  reaching 
Cheyenne,  passes  through  a country  en- 
tirely destitute  of  timber  and  water.  The 
only  stopping-places  are  Pierce^  Carr^ 
and  Summit  Siding^  the  first  two  estab- 
lished by  the  company  as  water  stations, 
and  the  latter  being  merely  a side-track. 
For  14  miles  before  reaching  Pierce  the 
road  runs  between  “ dog  villages,”  with 
their  regular  streets,  curious  houses,  and 
still  more  curious  inhabitants,  prairie- 
dogs,  owls,  and  rattlesnakes,  living  in 
harmony  in  the  same  habitation.  Near 
Carr’s  is  The  Natural  Fort^  which  is  a 
mass  of  sandstone  about  800  feet  in 
length  and  from  10  to  12  feet  high.  It 
has  been  worn  by  the  action  of  the 
weather  until  it  looks  like  a ruined  for- 
tress. 

<Col«,  (Y09 

miles),  marks  the  boundary  between 
Colorado  and  Wyoming,  and  here  we 
lose  sight  of  the  Rocky  Mountains^  which 
we  have  seen  on  the  west  since  leaving 
Denver,  and  the  Black  'ZO  miles 

distant,  come  in  view. 

Clieyeiiiae,  Wy,  (Y19  miles),  was 
settled  in  1867,  when  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway^  with  which  the  Denver  Pacific 
connects  here,  first  reached  it  in  its 
westward  progress.  This  has  always 
been  a point  of  some  importance.  Pre- 
vious to  the  opening  of  the  Denver  Pa- 
cific all  the  freight  and  passenger  travel 
to  and  from  Colorado  helped  to  increase 
the  business  of  this  place.  To  the  tour- 
ist, looking  at  the  pleasant  cottages  en- 
closed with  neat  fences,  the  substantial 
brick  and  stone  business  houses,  and 
the  air  of  life  and  industry,  it  seems 
wonderful  that  in  1867  this  was  a wild 
region  without  inhabitants,  until  the 
great  civilizing  influence  of  the  railroad 
brought  it  into  existence,  and  it  was  ap- 
propriately called  the  Magic  City,  so  rapid 
was  it  growth.  Like  all  Western  towns, 
it  had  even  more  than  its  share  of  roughs, 
wliich  more  than  once  called  for  the 
strong  arm  of  the  “ Vigilance  Commit- 
tee ; ” but  dance  and  gambling  houses 
94 


have  had  their  day,  and  peace  and  quiet 
reign  supreme.  The  town  has  a popu- 
lation of  about  2,000.  All  branches  of 
trade  are  carried  on.  Churches  have  been 
built,  schools  established,  and  Cheyenne 
can  claim  to  be  as  orderly  as  any  town 
west  of  the  Missouri.  The  Union  Pacific 
Railway  has  here  an  extensive  round- 
house and  shops  in  course  of  erection. 
When  the  terminus  of  the  road  was  at 
this  place  a population  of  5,000  was 
claimed,  but,  as  the  road  moved,  many 
went  with  it. 

Thirty-two  miles  northwest  is  an  im- 
mense deposit  of  iron  ore  which  assays 
80  to  90  per  cent.  The  erection  of  iron- 
works is  looked  for  at  this  point.  The 
mail  and  passengers  for  Fort  Laramie^  a 
military  post  of  some  importance,  83  miles 
northwest,  leave  the  railway  here.  Dur- 
ing the  days  of  emigrant  travel  through 
the  South  PasSj  which  lies  west  of  Fort 
Laramie,  it  was  a recruiting  station  where 
supplies  could  be  obtained,  cattle  rested, 
•and  a new  start  taken  for  the  Pacific — 
almost  a half-way  house. 

Cheyenne  is  fortunate  in  one  respect, 
at  least,  having  an  abundance  of  good 
coal  in  easy  reach  by  the  Denver 
Pacific^  and  plenty  of  pine-wood  in  the 
Black  Hills. 


MOUTE  XVIII. 

OMAHA  TO  SAN  FBANCmCO. 

Yia  Union  Pacific^  Central  Pacijic^  and  West- 
ern Pacific  ItaiPiJcays.  {Time^  4 days^  9 hr  a. 
— Fare^  $100. 

Stations. — Union  Pacific  Railway. — 
Omaha  to  Gilmore,  10  miles ; Papillon,  15  ; 
Elkhorn,  29;  Valley,  35;  Fremont  (con- 
nects with  Sioux  City  & Pacific  Railway 
and  with  Fremont  & Elkhorn  Valley  Rail- 
way), 47  ; Ketchum,  54  ; North  Bend,  62  ; 
Schuyler,  76  ; Cooper,  84 ; Columbus,  92  ; 
Jackson,  99 ; Silver  Creek,  109 ; Clark’s 
121;  Lone  Tree,  132;  Chapman’s,  142; 
Grand  Island,  154;  Pawnee,  162;  Wood 
River,  172;  Gibbon,  183;  Kearney,  191; 
Stevenson,  201 ; Elm  Creek,  212 ; Over- 
ton,  221 ; Plum  Creek,  230;  Coyote,  240; 
Willow  Island,  250 ; Warren,  260 ; Brady 
Island,  268 ; McPherson,  277 ; North 
Platte,  291 ; Nichols,  299 ; O’Fallon’s,  307 ; 
Alkali,  322  ; Roscoe,  332  ; Ogalalla,  341 ; 


Stations.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIIL 


[OMAnA. 


Brule,  351 ; Big  Spring,  861  ; Julesburg, 
377  ; Chappell,  387 ; Lodge  Pole,  397 ; 
Colton,  408 ; Sidney,  414 ; Brownson, 
423 ; Potter,  433 ; Bennett,  442  ; Ante- 
lope, 451  ; Biishnell,  463 ; Pine  Blulfs, 
473  ; Egbert,  484 ; Hillsdale,  496 ; Ar- 
cher, 508  ; Cheyenne,  516  ; Hazard,  523  ; 
Otto,  531 ; Granite  Canyon,  536  ; Buford, 
542  ; Sherman,  549  ; Harney,  558  ; Red 
Buttes,  564 ; Fort  Saunders,  570 ; Lara- 
mie, 573  ; Howell’s,  581  ; Wyoming,  587 ; 
Cooper’s  Lake,  602 ; Ijookout,  606 ; 
Miser,  614 ; Rock  Creek,  623 ; Como, 
638  ; Medicine  Bow,  645  ; Carbon,  656  ; 
Simpson,  662;  Percy,  669;  Dana,  675; 
St.  Mary’s,  680;  Walcott’s,  688;  Fort 
Steele,  696 ; Grenville,  704 ; Rawlings, 
709;  Separation,  723  ; Creston,  737; 
Washakie,  752  ; Red  Desert,  761 ; Table 
Rock,  775;  Bitter  Creek,  785;  Black 
Buttes,  794 ; Hallville,  798 ; Point  of 
Rocks,  805 ; Salt  Wells,  817 ; Van  Dykes, 
828  ; Rock  Springs,  831 ; Green  River, 
845;  Bryan  (connects  with  stages  for 
the  Sweetwater  Mining  Region),  858 ; 
Granger,  876 ; Church  Buttes,  887 ; 
Carter,  904;  Bridger,  913;  Piedmont, 
928 ; Aspen,  937 ; Evanston,  955 ; 
Alma,  957 ; Wahsatch,  966  ; Castle  Rock, 
975;  Echo,  991;  V/eber,  1,007;  Devil’s 
Gate,  1,019;  Uintah,  1,024;  Ogden  (con- 
nects with  Utah  Central  and  Central 
Pacific  Railways),  1,032. 

Stations. — Central  Facijlc  Railway. — 
Corinne,  1,055  miles  from  Omaha ; Blue 
Creek,  1,073  ; Promontory,  1,084;  Rozel, 
1,092;  Lake,  1,100;  Monument  Point, 
1,105;  Kelton,  1,123;  Matlin,  1,137 ; Ter- 
race, 1,153  ; Bovine,  1,164  ; Lucin,  1,177  ; 
Tecoma,  1,188;  Montello,  1,197;  Loray, 
1,206;  Toano,  1,214;  Pequop,  1,224; 
Ofcego,  1,230  ; Independence,  1,236  ; 
Moore’s,  1,242;  Cedar,  1,244;  Wells, 
1,250 ; Tulasco,  1,258  ; Deeth,  1,271 ; Hal- 
leck,  1,284;  Peko,  1,287 ; Osino,  1,297; 
Elko,  1,307 ; Moleen,  1,319  ; Carlin,  1,330 ; 
Palisade,  1,339  ; Cluro,  1,350  ; Beowawe, 
1,358;  Shoshone,  1,368;  Argenta,  1,379; 
Battle  Mountain,  1,391;  Side  Track,  1,403 ; 
Stone  House,  1,410  ; Iron  Point,  1,422 ; 
Golconda,  1,434;  Tule,  1,445;  Winne- 
raucca,  1,451 ; Rose  Creek,  1,461  ; 
Raspberry,  1,472;  Mill  Creek,  1,479; 
Humboldt,  1,492 ; Rye  Patch,  1,504 ; 
Oreana,  1,514;  Humboldt  Bridge,  1,521; 
Lovelock’s,  1,525;  Granite  Point,  1,533; 


Brown’s,  1,541;  W'hite  Plains,  1,553; 
Mirage,  1,560;  Hot  Springs,  1,568; 
Desert,  1,578;  Two-Mile  Station,  1,585; 
Wadsworth,  1,587;  Clark’s,  1,602  ; Camp 
37,  1,614;  Reno,  1,622;  Verdi,  1,632; 
Boca,  1,648 ; Truckee,  1,656  ; Strong’s 
Canyon,  1,668;  Summit,  1,671  ; Cascade, 
1,677;  Tamarack,  1,681;  Cisco,  1,684; 
Emigrant  Gap,  1,692 ; Blue  Canyon, 
1,698;  China  Ranch,  1,700;  Shady  Run, 
1,702;  Alta,  1,707;  Dutch  Flat,  1,709; 
Gold  Run,  1,712;  Colfax,  1,722;  Clipper 
Gap,  1,733;  Auburn,  1,740;  Newcastle, 
1,745  ; Pino,  1,750  ; Rocklin,  1,754 ; Junc- 
tion (connects  with  Oregon  Division), 
1,758  ; Antelope,  1,761 ; Arcade,  1,768 ; 
American  R.  Bridge,  1,769  ; Sacramento, 
1,775. 

Stations. — Western  Pacific  Railway. — 
Brighton,  1,780  miles  ; Florin,  1,784  ; Elk 
Grove,  1,791 ; Cosumnes,  1,794 ; Galt, 
1,802  ; Mokelumne,  1,810  ; Stockton, 
1,823  ; Wilson’s,  1,831 ; Banta’s,  1,839  ; 
Ellis,  1,844;  Midway,  1,850;  Altamont, 
1,858;  Livermore,  1,866;  Pleasanton, 
1,872  ; Niles,  1,884  ; Decota,  1,886 ; Lo- 
renzo, 1,895  ; San  Leandro,  1,899  ; Al- 
meda,  1,907;  Oakland,  1,910;  San  Fran- 
cisco (connects  with  steamships  for  prin- 
cipal ports  in  China,  Japan,  Australia, 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  New  Zealand,  also 
for  ports  on  the  western  coast  of  the 
United  States),  1,914. 

OMialia  (414  miles  from  Chicago), 
the  principal  city  between  Chicago  and 
the  Pacific,  is  destined  to  be  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  West.  The  site  is  a 
plateau  rising  from  the  river  westward  to 
the  bluffs,  and  the  city  presents  a fine  ap- 
pearance to  the  traveller  crossing  the 
wide  Missouri  Valley  from  the  eastward. 
The  hills  on  the  west  command  a splendid 
view  of  Council  Bluffs  on  the  east,  the 
wide  Missouri  River  for  miles  north  and 
south,  and  an  extensive  stretch  of  wide, 
undulating  prairie  covered  with  rich  farms 
on  the  west. 

The  situation  of  Omaha,  commanding 
for  it  an  extensive  trade  with  the  West, 
has  caused  its  almost  unprecedented 
growth,  from  a population  of  1,883  in 
1860,  to  that  of  18,000  shown  by  the  late 
census. 

There  are  a number  of  first-class  hotels, 
but,  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  public  at 
this  great  central  point  of  the  continent, 
95 


Omaha.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Elkhorn. 


a handsome  five-story  hotel  was  erected 
recently  at  a cost  of  $200,000. 

The  bridge  across  the  Missouri,  one 
of  the  finest  structures  of  the  kind  in  the 
country,  is  just  finished,  and  affords  un- 
broken railway  connection  from  ocean  to 
ocean.  It  was  built  by  the  Union  Pacific 
Company,  and  cost  over  a million  dol- 
lars. It  is  a magnificent  structure  of 
iron,  60  feet  above  high-water  mark,  and 
has,  besides  a railroad-track,  a street- 
car and  wagon-way. 

There  are  in  Omaha  lY  church  edifices, 
some  of  which  are  very  handsome. 

The  high-school  house  in  course  of 
erection  at  a cost  of  $200,000,  and  the 
brick  buildings  recently  erected  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  city  as  graded  schools, 
are  all  of  the  first  order. 

The  shops  of  the  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
imy^  the  new  smelting-works  for  refin- 
ing silver-ore  from  the  m.ountains,  iron- 
works, and  manufactories  of  various 
kinds,  give  employment  to  many  me- 
chanics and  laborers  ; while  the  trade 
of  the  Western  mines  and  country  ad- 
jacent to  the  connecting  railroads  sup- 
ports a large  wholesale  trade. 

During  the  year  1870,  the  improve- 
ments, public  and  private,  footed  up  to 
nearly  a million  dollars.  The  business 
of  the  five  banks  exceeds  that  of  many 
cities  of  three  times  the  population. 
Travellers  from  the  East  will  find  Omaha 
an  excellent  place  to  stay  at  for  a day, 
and  witness  the  life  and  activity  which 
prevail  in  the  growing  cities  of  the 
West. 

Omaha  is  the  great  central  railroad 
city  on  the  Missouri.  The  CVwcago, 
Rock  Island  Pacific^  Chicago  North- 
western^ and  Burlington  do  Missouri^  from 
the  east,  Kansas  City^  JSf.  Joseph  c£*  Coun- 
cil Blufis  from  the  south,  the  Union  Pa- 
cific from  the  west,  and  the  Omaha  & 
Northwestern  and  Omaha  & Southwest- 
ern  Railways^  connect  here.  The.  lat- 
ter roads  have  been  built  and  are  owned 
by  Omaha  capitalists,  each  operating 
25  miles,  and  extending  their  lines  into 
the  rich  agricultural  districts  of  the 
State. 

From  Omaha  we  commence  our  journey 
on  the  Union  Pacific  Railivay^  seated  in 
one  of  the  luxurious  Pullman  palace- 
96 


cars  with  which  every  American  traveller 
is  familiar.  Passing  the  wooded  hills,  a 
wide  rolling  prairie  opens  before  us,  with 
fine  farm-houses  and  groves  of  timber 
about  them.  On  our  left  is  the  belt  of 
forest  along  the  bluffs  of  the  Missouri 
Riverj  and  we  can  hardly  realize  that 
only  a few  years  ago  this  country  was 
inhabited  by  the  red-man,  and  that  the 
“ tread  of  pioneers  ” had  not  been  heard 
west  of  the  great  tributary  of  the  “ lea- 
ther of  Waters.” 

At  <5^iSinoi*C9  (10  miles),  the 

first  station,  we  enter  the  Papillon  Val- 
ley and  turn  westward.  Three  miles  be- 
yond we  pass  a beautiful  grove  of  timber, 
where  for  years  was  the  home  of  the 
Omaha  Indians^  until  they  were  removed 
to  their  present  reservation. 

S®apilloii  StatioBi,  Nelj.  (15 
miles),  has  a grist-mill,  two  stores,  hotel, 
etc.,  the  nucleus  of  a Western  town. 
Prom  here  we  have  a fine  rolling  prairie 
country,  dotted  with  white  farm-houses, 
until  we  reach 

Ellclaoriffl,  Nel>.  (29  miles),  a 
station  from  which  a large  quantity  of 
grain  is  shipped.  Two  miles  beyond  we 
pass  through  a cut  in  the  bluffs,  and  the 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Platte^^  through 
which  the  road  extends  400  miles,  opens 
to  our  sight.  One  cannot  but  be  im- 
pressed here  with  the  first  view  of  one  of 
the  finest  agricultural  regions  of  the 
world,  destined  to  become  the  garden  of 
the  West,  and  support  a vast  agricultural 
and  manufacturing  population. 

Entering  the  valley,  we  cross  the  Elk- 
horn  River  on  a substantial  bridge,  and 
looking  westward  v/e  see  a grand  expanse 
of  prairie,  with  bluffs  on  either  side, 
and  everywhere  signs  of  prosperity  and 
advancement.  An  enthusiastic  corre- 
spondent thus  writes  his  first  impres- 
sions, on  sighting  the  vaUey  of  the  Platte : 

“ Seen  as  it  was  by  us  upon  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  days  which  ever  gladdened 
Nature  by  unclouded  sunlight,  after  hours 
of  a lowering  sky  and  inclement  weather,  ^ 
it  burst  upon  the  view  like  a scene  of 
enchantment,  as  if  some  fairy  hand  lifted 
the  veil  and  spread  before  the  observer 
a grand,  gigantic  panorama.  Upon  the 
south  rolled  the  waters  of  the  Platte, 
broad  and  swift,  while  far  upon  either 
side  lifted  the  bluffs  which  border  the 


Valley.] 


OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XYIII.  [ScnuYLEi;. 


valley,  and  wliich  are  the  great  walls  to 
this  garden  of  Nature.  Vegetation  was 
in  Us  most  luxuriant,  stage,  the  green 
plain  stretched  forth  its  emerald  carpet 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  yet  it 
was  but  the  entrance  to  a tract  400  miles 
in  extent,  the  whole  of  which  was  equally 
as  grand  and  beautiful  as  this.  From 
the  vast  expanse  in  front  the  eye  wan- 
dered back  again  to  the  bluffs,  and  the 
mind  intuitively  felt  how  fit  a setting 
were  they  for  this  radiant  girdle  on  the 
form  of  fair  Nebraska.  If  one  would 
gain  an  idea  of  the  stupendous  character 
of  the  works  of  Nature,  let  him  visit  the 
mountains,  the  cataracts,  and  the  colossal 
structures  the  Great  Architect  has  reared 
in  the  Old  World  and  the  New.  But  look- 
ing upon  them  moves  one  with  wonder 
and  amazement,  while  this  broad,  level 
tract,  with  its  river  gleaming  in  the  sun- 
light, its  bosom  decked  with  the  loveliest 
flowers,  awakens  adoration  and  a delight 
which  one  would  wish  might  live  for- 
ever.” 

Ncl>.  (35  miles),  is  the 
first  station  after  leaving  Elkhorn.  It  has 
a hotel,  a store,  and  a few  other  houses. 

©’reasiosit,  (47  miles),  an 

eating-station,  is  a place  of  about  2,000 
inhabitants,  which  has  grown  very  rapidly 
since  the  building  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway,  An  elevator  near  the  depot 
indicates  that  it  is  a grain-market,  and 
large  quantities  are  shipped  from  this 
point.  From  here  the  Sioux  City  & Pa- 
cific Railway  runs  daily  trains  connecting 
with  the  Chicago  d‘  Northwestern  Rail- 
way^ in  Iowa,  26  miles  above  Council 
Bluffs.  This  is  also  the  initial  point  of 
the  Fremont  d Elkhorn  Valley  Railway^ 
extending  northwesterly,  50  miles  up  the 
Valley  of  the  Elkhorn^  and  passing  through 
the  town  of  West  Point.  All  branches  of 
trade  are  well  represented.  Forty  stores 
of  different  kinds,  several  hotels,  churches, 
and  school-buildings,  a flourishing  news- 
paper, etc.,  evince  thrift  and  enterprise. 

Heiid,  Nel>.  (62  miles), 
is  a town  recently  commenced.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a fine  and  well-settled  farm- 
ing country.  The  Platte  River  on  our 
left  is  here  first  approached,  although  we 
have  been  travelling  parallel  with  it  for 
some  distance.  The  impression  a tourist 
will  form  of  this  stream  will  be  controlled 
5 


somewhat  by  the  stage  of  the  water.  At 
high  water  it  is  an  unbroken  sheet  from 
bank  to  bank,  from  one  to  two  miles 
wide ; at  low  water  a great  bed  of 
quicksand  blown  about  by  the  wind,  with 
here  and  there  shallow  streams.  Numer- 
ous well-wooded  islands  are  scattered 
along,  and  in  winter  the  abundant  red 
cedars  form  a pleasing  contrast  with  the 
leafless  cotton-woods.  The  value  of  this 
stream  to  the  country  west  of  here  200 
miles  is  yet  to  be  understood.  The 
soil  is  rich,  but  the  want  of  sufficient 
rain  prevents  cultivation,  and  this  de- 
fect is  to  be  overcome  by  irrigation, 
which  can  be  accomplished  at  slight 
expense  from  a stream  which  has  a 
descent  of  seven  feet  to  the  mile.  Wher- 
ever irrigation  has  been  tried  in  the 
West,  astonishing  and  certain  crops  have 
been  the  result ; and  all  this  great  valley 
to  the  west  of  us  is  yet  to  be  rendered 
productive  by  the  waters  of  the  much- 
abused  Platte  River. 

Sclaiayler,  Ncl>.  (76  miles),  is  a 
town  of  only  two  years’  growth,  and  con- 
tains 500  inhabitants.  Quite  a colony 
from  Nova  Scotia  has  settled  near  here 
on  homestead  and  railroad  lands,  and 
is  doing  well.  On  the  right  of  the  main 
track  are  the  extensive  cattle-yards  from 
which  50,000  head  of  Texas  cattle  were 
shipped  during  the  season  of  1870. 

Passing  Schuyler  we  can  look  west- 
ward along  the  lines  of  iron  rails  till 
they  converge  to  a point  in  the  dim  dis- 
tance, and  the  row  of  telegraph-poles 
fades  from  view.  Along  the  railway  for 
some  distance  we  have  a view  of  the 
overland  emigrant  road,  now  fast  growing 
up  to  grass.  Over  this  great  highway 
has  rolled  that  living  tide  which  has 
peopled  the  Pacific  slope,  developed  her 
mineral  wealth,  and  built  her  cities.  The 
gold-hunters  of  Pike’s  Peak  andCalifornia, 
in  their  eager  pursuit  of  wealth,  have  toiled 
along  this  dusty  road  toward  the  setting 
sun.  The  Mormons  with  ox-teams  and 
hand-carts  have  dragged  along  their  weary 
loads  through  mud  and  snow,  looking  for 
a home,  as  they  hoped,  of  peace  and 
plenty,  to  at  last  find  an  end  of  their 
wanderings  in  the  sterile  valleys  of  Utah, 
which  by  persistent  toil  they  have  in 
some  places  made  to  blossom  as  a garden. 
The  evening  camp-fire,  the  grazing  cattle, 
07 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [Plum  Cueek. 


Columbus.] 

and  the  white  covered  wagons,  drawn  up 
in  a circle  at  night,  are  all  things  of  the 
past,  and  in  their  stead  the  iron  horse 
thunders  along  the  plains,  and  wakes  the 
echoes  in  the  hills. 

Nel>.  (92  miles),  the 
next  stopping-place,  is  a town  of  about 
1,000  people,  destined  to  be  one  of  some 
importance.  A bridge  just  built  across 
the  connects  it  with  the  settlers  in 

Butler  County.  A railway  from  South- 
ern Nebraska  will  soon  pass  through 
here,  and  westward  up  the  valley  of 
the  Loup ; while  another  to  Sioux  City 
will  furnish  lumber  direct  from  the 
pine  regions  of  Minnesota  and  Wiscon- 
sin. A good  supply  of  timber,  excellent 
water,  and  fine  farming  lands,  make  this 
section  one  of  the  best  in  the  State. 

Fifteen  miles  northwest  is  the  reserva- 
tion of  the  Fawnee  Indians^  who  now 
number  about  1,000.  Their  rich  lands, 
lying  on  the  Lcnip  Fork  River ^ are  divided 
into  farms.  The  game  yearly  becoming 
less  plenty,  they  find  that  their  living 
must  be  derived  from  the  soil,  and  in 
18V0  they  raised  good  crops  of  corn, 
beans,  etc. 

Three  miles  west  of  Columbus  we  cross 
the  Loup  five  miles  above  its  confluence 
with  the  Platte,  on  a substantial  bridge 
1,500  feet  long. 

Silveir  Crcelc,  Nel>.  (109  miles), 
and  BLiOMie  'Free,  Nel>.  (132  miles), 
are  passenger  stations,  around  which 
stores  and  dwellings  have  been  recently 
built.  Near  the  latter  place  the  old  emi- 
grant road  to  Colorado  crosses  the  Platte 
at  a point  well  known,  years  ago,  as 
JShimes  Ferry^  and  continues  westward 
on  the  south  side. 

Islaiidl,  (154 

miles),  an  eating-station,  taking  its  name 
from  a large,  well-timbered  island  in  the 
Platte,  60  miles  long  and  4 miles  wide, 
is  a place  of  800  inhabitants,  which 
has  been  entirely  built  up  since  the  rail- 
way was  finished  to  this  point  in  1867. 
It  has  a large  steam-mill  near  the  depot, 
which  turns  out  a hundred  barrels  of 
flour  per  day.  The  farming  country  is 
principally  settled  by  Germans,  who  have 
done  much  toward  its  improvement. 

W«o<aL  I^ivcr,  NcH>.  (172  miles), 
is  a station  near  a stream  of  the  same 
name,  which  is  crossed  by  the  road.  Here 
98 


the  valley  is  very  wide,  and  afforda 
splendid  grazing  facilities. 

Mcairiaey,  Nel>.  (191  miles),  is  a 
station  supplying  the  military  post  of  the 
same  name  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  four  miles  away.  Here  the  stream 
is  three  miles  wide,  with  numerous  chan- 
nels and  wooded  islands.  The  flag  on  the 
parade-ground  can  be  seen  in  a clear  day 
above  the  timber  of  the  river.  The  post 
was  established  in  1848,  and  was  for 
years  a point  of  great  importance  to  the 
overland  emigrants,  being  the  last  place 
cast  of  the  mountains  where  supplies  in 
any  quantity  could  be  had  ; but  its  busy 
life  has  departed,  and  a few  adobe"^ 
buildings  now  mark  the  spot  where  a 
great  trade  once  flourished.  One  com- 
pany of  soldiers  garrisons  the  fort.  ^ Here 
is  the  point  of  prospective  connection  of 
the  Burlington  <Sc  Missouri  Railway,  now 
built  as  far  west  as  Lincoln^  the  capital  of 
Nebraska.  Buffalo,  which  in  countless 
herds  once  roamed  about  the  limits  of 
the  military  reservation,  can  still  be 
found  in  limited  numbers  within  25  miles. 

sum  Creek,  Nek.  (212  miles),  is 
a small  station  near  a well-wooded  stream 
of  the  same  name.  The  country  main- 
tains the  same  general  appearance,  a 
wide-spread  valley  covered  in  the  spring 
with  a short  growth  of  very  nutritious 
buffalo  and  grama  grasses,  a grazing- 
ground  for  countless  herds  of  cattle. 

5Plnm  Creek,  Nek.  (230  miles), 
is  a small  station  of  a few  houses.  Here 
for  many  years  the  Indians,  in  their  semi- 
annual excursions  in  pursuit  of  game, 
crossed  the  Platte.  About  three  miles 
west  of  the  station  was  the  scene  of  the 
“ Creek  massacre'^  in  1868.  A 
roving  band  of  Sioux  tore  up  a rail  and 
threw  a freight-train  loaded  with  valuable 
goods  from  the  track,  killing  the 
engineer  and  fireman,  the  other  em- 
ployes escaping  in  the  darkness.  Bay- 
light  disclosed  a scene  of  wild  riot  and 
plundering.  Broken  bales  and  boxes  of 
goods  were  scattered  over  the  ground, 
and  after  loading  their  ponies  the  savages 
set  fire  to  the  cars  and  crossed. the  Platte, 
going  southward.  But  the  avenger  was 
swiftly  on  their  track.  A company  oi 


* This  word  is  colloquially  pronpuncod  as  if 
written  “dobey.”  Adobe  is  sun-dried  brick. 


Willow  Isl’d.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [Ogalalla. 


Pawnee  scouts,  then  employed  by  the 
Government  in  guarding  the  road,  were 
telegraphed  to,  and  soon  on  their  trail, 
eager  to  take  vengeance  on  their  ancient 
enemies.  Some  miles  south  of  the  river 
they  overtook  the  Sioux  among  the  hills, 
laden  with  their  booty,  and  a short  and 
bloody  conflict  ensued.  Next  day  sixteen 
Sioux  scalps  were  fluttering  in  the  breeze 
before  the  camp  of  the  Pawnees,  and  the 
departed  spirits  of  that  many  of  their 
tribe  were  avenged.  The  writer  will 
never  forget  the  rejoicings  he  witnessed 
in  that  camp,  over  the  “heap-scalp.” 
Those  experiences  have  passed  away,  and 
the  Indians  have  ceased  troubling  the 
road,  and  the  strife  between  these  two 
tribes  ended  in  peace. 

'Willow  Island,  (250 

miles),  and  S5rad.y  Eslaaol,  Neb. 
(268  miles),  are  small  passenger  stations. 

McE^Iiersoa,  Neb.  (277  miles),  is 
a supply-station  for  the  fort  of  the  same 
name,  four  miles  away,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  river.  This  post  was  built  in  1863 
for  the  protection  of  the  emigrants,  and 
is  now  garrisoned  by  six  companies  of 
troops.  Large  quantities  of  red-cedar 
ties,  telegraph-poles,  and  wood,  have  been 
cut  in  the  canons  near  here  for  the  use 
of  the  railway,  and  a succession  of  bridges 
built  from  island  to  island  across  the 
numerous  channels  of  the  Platte.  Just 
below  here  the  North  and  South  Branches 
of  the  Platte  unite.  At  McPherson  Sta- 
tion a tract  of  several  thousand  acres  is 
naturally  irrigated  from  Pawnee  Spring. 
This  was  formerly  a favorite  camping 
ground  on  account  of  the  abundant  grass 
and  good  water.  Thousands  of  tons  of 
hay  are  cut  here  for  the  military  posts, 
and  points  along  the  railway. 

Ten  miles  farther  we  cross  the  North 
Fork  of  the  Platte  on  a bridge  3,000  feet 
long,  supported  by  cedar  piles ; and  two 
miles  beyond  arrive  at 

Nortb.  Neb.  (291  miles), 

where  the  railway  company  has  a fine 
hotel,  round-house,  and  machine-shop  for 
repairs.  Some  good  business  houses  and 
neat  cottages  give  the  town  a thrifty  as- 
pect. Here  that  often  indefinite  point 
(when  the  rails  were  being  laid  from  two 
to  five  miles  a-day),  the  “ end  of  the 
track,”  was  located  during  the  winter  of 
1867,  and  the  town  presented  a long  line 


of  tents  and  board  shanties — every  other 
one  being  a whiskey-shop,  whose  sole 
capital  was  a gallon  of  “ tarantula- 
juice,”  half  a dozen  empty  bottles  of 
“ bitters,”  and  a crowd  of  hang-dog 
loafers,  and  low  gamblers.  The  “ roughs  ” 
carried  on  their  shooting  and  robbing 
until  the  Vigilance  Committee,  the  only 
power  they  dreaded,  visited  merited 
punishment  on  some  of  the  ringleaders, 
and  as  the  road  moved  on  they  sought 
new  locations,  and  left  a quiet  and  orderly 
town  behind.  Between  the  town  and  the 
South  Platte  Colonel  Parke,  the  editor  of 
the  North  Platte  Advertiser^  and  some  oth- 
ers have  constructed  an  irrigating  ditch, 
which  waters  a large  tract  of  land,  and 
has  proved  a decided  success.  This  is  the 
shipping-point  for  large  numbers  of  cattle 
raised  on  natural  grasses. 

Station,  Neb.  (307 
miles),  takes  its  name  from  the  blufls  in 
plain  view  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  and  well  known  to  the  plains- 
man a few  years  ago.  Here  the  emigrant 
passed  through  deep  ravines,  once  the 
dreaded  lurking-place  of  the  Indians,  who 
waited  to  surprise  unprotected  trains.  Al- 
kali begins  to  appear,  and  one  can  see  in 
a dry  season  the  crystals  glistening  white 
as  snow  in  the  ditches  beside  the  track. 

'W'e  have  left  behind  the  farming  lands, 
and  enter  a vast  grazing  country,  which 
extends  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. These  boundless  prairies,  covered 
in  summer  and  winter  with  nutritious 
grasses,  will  furnish  unlimited  pasturage. 
The  mildness  of  the  climate,  and  the 
dryness  and  purity  of  the  atmosphere, 
render  this  country  peculiarly  adapted  to 
grazing. 

Alkali,  Neb.  (322  miles),  is  direct- 
ly opposite  the  old  stage-station  of  the 
same  name.  The  remains  of  the  old  sod 
buildings  and  corrals  where  the  ranch- 
men braved  the  attacks  of  the  savages 
can  in  many  places  be  seen ; but  for  a 
hundred  miles,  where  once  the  road  was 
lined  with  white-topped  wagons,  now  not 
a single  white  man  is  found, 

Ogalalla,  Neb.  (341  miles),  is 
near  the  old  “ California  Crossing  ” of 
the  Platte  and  opposite  where  once  stood 
the  well-known  trading-post  of  Beauvais^ 
who  was  afterward  United  States  peace 
commissioner  at  Laramie. 


99 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Pine  Bluffs. 


Big  Spring.] 


Sig*  Spring’?  (361  miles), 

is  named  from  a fine  spring  of  water 
which  flows  from  the  adjacent  bluffs,  and 
has  refresiied  many  a weary  traveller. 
Since  leaving  North  Platte  Station  the 
road  has  been  near  the  bank  of  the 
stream,  and  the  tourist  has  had  a full  view 
of  the  whole  valley. 

Nei>.  (377  miles), 
was  once  famous  as  the  ‘‘  wickedest  town 
in  America,”  and  during  the  short  stay 
at  the  station  one  can  hardly  realize  that 
here  once  stood  a town  of  4,000  people. 
After  a growth  of  six  weeks,  twenty  large 
government  and  private  warehouses  were 
erected,  and  goods  for  all  points  West 
shipped  in  great  quantities  by  teams. 
Gambling  and  dance  houses  were  abun- 
dant, and  some  of  the  victims  of  the  law- 
lessness and  crime  ot  those  days  lie  buried 
on  the  hill  north  of  the  depot,  where  a 
few  boards  mark  their  graves.  When 
the  road  reached  Cheyenne,  the  portable 
buildings  were  pulled  down,  and  moved 
away.  Now,  two  depots  and  three  other 
houses  indicate  the  spot,  and  the  cactus 
which  once  covered  the  ground  is  fast 
spreading  over  the  site  of  the  fastest 
city  of  the  continent. 

Three  miles  south,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river,  the  white  buildings  of 
Fort  Sedgwick  can  be  seen,  now  gar- 
risoned by  two  companies  of  troops. 
Here,  200  miles  from  Denver  by  the  old 
wagon-road,  was  an  important  and  busy 
point  before  the  railroad  was  built. 
After  passing  Julesburg  we  leave  the 
river,  which  we  have  had  in  view  for  850 
miles,  and  turn  northwesterly  up  the 
valley  of  Lodge-Pole  Creek.  Herds  of 
antelope  are  seen  feeding  quietly  on  the 
hills,  and,  except  the  prairie  dogs,  are 
almost  the  only  signs  of  animal  life. 

The  Vallcg  of  Lodge-Pole  Creek  is  about 
an  average  of  a mile  and  a-half  in  width. 
The  old  road  to  Port  Laramie  follows  the 
stream  for  some  distance. 

(414  miles),  is  the 
, largest  place  between  North  Platte  and 
Cheyenne.  Here  are  a round-house,  re- 
pair-shops, a large  hotel  and  eating-house, 
a small  military  post,  several  stores,  and 
other  business-houses.  The  Indians  were 
once  very  troublesome  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, and  the  tourist  may  notice  while 
travelling  with  Mr.  Cahoon,  a popular 
100 


passenger  conductor  on  the  western 
division,  that  when  he  lifts  his  hat  a bare 
spot  is  displayed  which  he  says  hiir 
“ invigorate r ” does  not  affect.  While 
fishing  in  the  creek  only  half  a mile  from 
the  station,  a band  of  Indians,  who  had 
no  doubt  been  watching  him  from  the 
hills,  came  suddenly  upon  him,  shooting 
him  in  several  places  with  arrows,  se- 
curing his  scalp,  and  leaving  him  for 
dead.  After  several  months  he  finally 
recovered,  but  during  a long  personal 
acquaintance  the  writer  never  heard  him 
express  a wish  to  try  it  a second  time. 

The  dry  climate  and  rich  pasturage 
here  have  proved  very  favorable  for  sheep- 
raising, which  promises  to  be  an  im- 
portant feature  on  the  high  table-lands 
of  Western  Nebraska.  Moore  & Brother 
have,  at  Sidney,  8,C00  sheep,  which  have 
proved  a profitable  investment. 

Leaving  Sidney,  the  bluffs  on  the  right 
are  a poor  quality  of  limestone.  Just 
before  passing  a high  rocky  point  we 
catch  the  first  glimpse  of  scrubby  pines 
growing  among  the  rocks. 

Plotter,  (433  miles),  the  next 

stopping-place,  is  an  unimportant  station, 
at  an  elevation  of  4,375  feet.  During  the 
past  24  hours  our  ascent  has  been  so 
gradual  that  we  can  scarcely  realize  that 
we  are  almost  2,500  feet  higher  than 
Omaha. 

MelB.  (451  miles),  con- 
sists of  a station-house,  water-tank,  and 
section-house,  and  the  country  possesses 
the  same  features  displayed  for  the  last 
50  miles.  Some  time  before  reaching  the 
next  station — 

IPine  Nel]>.  (473  miles)— 

we  get  a view  of  the  rocky  hills  on  the  left, 
with  straggling  pines  from  which  it  takes 
its  name.  Here  large  quantities  of  pine- 
wood  have  been  delivered  to  the  railroad 
company,  and  this  station  will  yet  be  one 
of  some  importance  when  stock-raising 
is  carried  on  extensively.  The  broad 
valley  to  the  northwest,  the  high  per- 
pendicular rocks,  with  the  creek  mean- 
dering at  their  base,  present  a pleasing 
picture,  which  we  have  a few  minutes  to 
look  upon  while  the  train  stops  for  v/ater. 
Before  the  railroad  was  built,  an  adven- 
turous ranchman  put  up  a stone-house 
here,  and  surrounded  it  with  a stockade, 
where  travellers  felt  comparatively  sate 


Killsdale.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [Sherman. 


from  Indian  attacks.  In  this  locality 
used  to  be  the  favorite  hunting-grounds  of 
the  Cheyennes  during  the  summer. 

llillsclalc,  Wy.  (496  miles),  is 
reached  with  ease,  but  the  grade  is  very 
perceptible.  The  road-bed  consists  en- 
tirely of  gravel,  and  is  so  substantial  that 
it  needs  but  little  repairs  in  a country 
where  rain  is  limited. 

Just  before  reaching  Archer  we  have 
a glimpse  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
whose  tops  are  covered  with  eternal 
snows.  The  traveller  may  mistake  them 
for  clouds ; but,  as  he  ascends,  the  dark 
belt  of  pines  just  below  the  snow-line 
will  dispel  the  illusion.  The  first  view 
of  the  great  chain  of  mountains,  which 
have  been  known  to  us  since  the  days  of 
boyhood  geography,  is  at  once  grand  and 
beautiful.  [See  chapter  on  Colorado.] 

As  the  tourist  scans  this  mountain- 
range,  extending  southward.  Long's  Peak^ 
14,000  feet  high,  is  plainly  visible,  and  the 
Spanish  Peaks  are  in  the  dim  distance. 

Away  to  the  north  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach  is  seen  the  dark  line  of  the 
Black  Hills,  very  appropriately  named, 
for  the  rocks  and  pines  half-way  down 
their  sides  give  them  a sombre  aspect. 
From  Archer  the  track  has  a descending 
grade,  and  through  several  cuts  we  reach 
the  plain,  with  Cheyenne,  the  ‘‘  Magic 
City,”  in  full  view.  Just  before  reaching 
the  town  the  Denver  Pacific  Railroad  is 
seen  on  the  left,  extending  southward. 

^ Claeyeaiiie,  Wy,  (516  miles,  eleva- 
tion 5,931  feet),  was  unknown  before  the 
building  of  the  Union  Pacific,  which 
reached  this  point  in  1867.  It  has  been 
fully  described  in  Route  XVII.  {See  page 
94.)  Leaving  Cheyenne,  the  train  crosses 
Crow  Creek,  a mile  west  of  the  town,  and 
from  this  point  we  get  a good  view  of 
Fori  D.  A,  Pussell,  three  miles  north. 
Large  amounts  of  government  freight 
are  distributed  from  this  post,  which  is 
garrisoned  by  eight  companies  of  troops. 

Wy.  (523  miles),  is  an 
unimportant  point.  During  the  last  six 
miles  the  grade  has  been  60  feet  to  the 
mile,  and  from  Cheyenne  to  the  summit 
averages  nearly  90.  After  leaving  this 
station  the  rugged  mountain  scenery  is 
gradually  approached,  and  looking  back 
we  get  a good  view  of  Cheyenne,  the 
fort,  and  the  great  plain  northward. 


Approaching  Granite  Canon,  the  rise 
is  very  perceptible,  and  the  heavy  grading 
through  the  solid  rock  is  first  met  with. 
The  elevation  reached  is  1,367  feet  above 
Cheyenne.  Here,  while  the  road  was 
building,  was  quite  a village  of  boarding- 
houses, stores,  blacksmiths’  shops,  etc., 
which  have  entirely  disappeared,  leaving 
a few  tumble-down  fireplaces  to  mark  the 
spot.  Granite  is  the  main  formation,  with 
occasional  outcroppings  of  limestone,  and 
here  and  there  streaks  of  quartz  extend- 
ing from  the  gold-regions  of  Colorado. 
Snow-fences  and  walls  of  rock  become 
frequent  along  the  track,  and  afford  sub- 
stantial protection  from  the  drifting  snow 
of  winter.  Although  the  fiill  of  snow  here 
never  exceeds  six  inches,  still  the  high 
winds  which  prevail  at  that  season  would 
drift  it  into  the  cuts,  which  would  seri- 
ously obstruct  travel.  The  extensive  de- 
fences erected  by  the  Central  and  Union 
Pacific  Railways  proved  effectual  in  keep- 
ing the  long  line  clear  during  the  winter 
of  1870,  but,  in  1871-72,  “blockades” 
were  numerous  and  the  suffering  serious. 
Many  miles  of  sheds  were  built  during  the 
past  summer,  and  no  further  trouble  is 
apprehended.  After  passing  the  last  sta- 
tion the  road  continues  to  ascend ; wind- 
ing its  way  among  the  hills  until  reaching 
Buford,  a side-track,  we  gain  an  altitude 
from  which  we  have  a fine  view  north  and 
south.  The  mountain-peaks  away  to  the 
south  are  more  plainly  visible,  and  on  a 
clear  day  the  outlines  of  Pike's  Peak 
nearly  300  miles  off,  are  in  view.  On  the 
right,  wild,  rugged  mountains  of  granite 
rocks,  which  seem  to  have  been  piled  here 
by  some  great  convulsion  of  Nature,  meet 
the  eye,  with  pines,  whose  green  foliage 
relieves  the  sombre  aspect,  growing  in 
the  clefts  almost  to  their  summits. 

^lacruaaia,  Wy.  (549  miles,  eleva- 
tion 8,235  feet),  is  the  most  elevated 
railroad  station  in  the  world,  and  pos- 
sesses many  attractions  for  the  tourist. 
Those  wishing  for  clear  mountain-air, 
fine  trout-fishing,  and  a wide  field  for 
botanical  study,  will  find  them  here. 
Tourists  should  spend  a day  or  two  at 
Sherman.  At  Virginia  I) ale,  a beautifully 
picturesque  spot,  12  miles  south  of  the 
station,  was  an  old  stage-station,  which  has 
recently  been  bought  by  a person  who 
intends  making  a large  stock  ranche  of 
101 


Red  Buttes.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[LAftAMIE. 


it.  The  protection  afforded  in  winter, 
and  rich  pasturage,  make  it  very  desira- 
ble for  that  business.  Abundance  of 
excellent  speckled  trout  are  found  in  the 
creek,  and  the  Cache  d la  Poudre^  of  which 
it  is  a tributary.  Creighton  & Alsop, 
the  great  cattle-inen  of  the  plains,  have 
thousands  of  cattle  in  this  region,  and 
during  the  winter  ship  large  numbers 
East.  The  beef  fed  on  this  mountain- 
grass  has  a peculiarly  rich  flavor,  and  is 
said  to  be  much  better  than  that  fed  on 
grain.  These  valleys  will  yet  be  covered 
with  fields  of  grain,  and  the  hills  with 
herds  of  cattle.  After  leaving  Sherman, 
we  commence  a descent  toward  the  Lara- 
mie Plains,  and  a mile  from  the  station 
we  pass  Peed's  Rock^  a massive  pile  of 
granite  on  the  right  of  the  track,  well- 
known  as  a landmark  to  all  old  plainsmen. 

Pale  Creek  Bridge  is  the  first  object  of 
notice,  being  a fine  structure  650  feet 
long,  and  125  feet  above  a tiny  stream 
which  winds  down  the  rocky  gorge.  The 
bridge  is  well  built,  and  stayed  with  wire 
cables  anchored  in  the  rock.  Passing 
through  deep  rock-cuts  which  rise  high 
up  on  our  right,  with  straggling  pines 
and  wild-flowers  in  the  ravines,  we  emerge 
from  the  hills  and  Laramie  Plain  is 
spread  out  before  us,  a grand  and  beauti- 
ful sight.  On  the  west,  20  miles  away, 
rise  the  lofty  mountains  whose  tops  we 
could  see  east  of  Cheyenne  ; but  here  v/e 
have  a full  view  of  them  as  they  rise  from 
the  plain.  The  dark  shade  for  some 
distance  up  their  sides  is  the  growth 
of  pices  which  has  furnished  large 
quantities  of  ties  and  telegraph  poles. 
Directly  west  the  evening  sun  shining  on 
a thread  of  silver  along  the  plains  to  the 
north  marks  the  course  of  the  Laramie 
River  from  a gorge  of  the  mountains,  as 
it  takes  its  course  along  the  valley,  and 
here  we  get  an  idea  of  this  vast  table- 
land, over  ^7,000  feet  above  the  sea,  walled 
in  by  ranges  of  mountains  on  either  side, 
and  stretching  northward  till  the  Medi- 
cine Bow  Mountains^  80  miles  away, 
bound  the  view. 

Me<l  ISiiltcs,  "Wy.  (564  miles), 
the  first  station  on  the  plains,  is  named 
from  red  sandstone  hummocks,  rising  50 
to  75  feet  high. 

Fort  Wy.  (570 

miles),  a military  post,  is  in  sight  for  some 
102 


distance,  and  a side-track  here  affords 
convenience  for  receiving  stores.  This 
post,  established  in  1866,  is  very  beauti- 
fully situated  near  the  Laramie  River, 

) Quite  a large  field  adjoining  has  been 
f fenced  in,  and  excellent  crops  of  vegc- 
tables  raised,  by  the  aid  of  irrigation,  for 
f the  use  of  the  soldiers. 

¥jSO*5Qiffaie,  ^Vy.  (573  miles,  eleva- 
tion 7,123  feet),  is  a very  pleasant  town, 
built  up  entirely  since  the  advent  of  the 
railroad.  Here  the  company  has  erected 
a hotel,  round-house,  and  machine-shops, 
giving  employment  to  a large  number  of 
men.  There  is  a delightful  chance  during 
the  summer  to  spend  a few  weeks  here 
away  from  the  heat  and  dust  of  the  city. 
Hunting,  fishing,  riding,  rambling  among 
the  Black  Hills^  or  excursions  to  the 
mountains,  and  climbing  to  the  snowy 
line  in  a warm  day,  all  afford  agreeable 
and  healthy  excitement.  A good  appetite 
is  one  of  the  consequences,  and  under  a 
blanket  covering  the  nights  are  passed  in 
refreshing  sleep. 

The  North  Park,,  which  lies  directly 
west  of  here,  promises  when  thoroughly 
prospected  to  prove  a rich  mineral  region. 
Several  parties  during  1869  found  gold 
there  in  paying  quantities,  but,  owing  to 
Indian  troubles,  the  work  was  deserted 
after  several  miners  had  been  killed. 
When  these  mines  are  worked,  as  they 
soon  will  be,  it  is  believed  by  old  miners 
that  they  will  prove  very  profitable,  and, 
together  with  the  lumbering  interests, 
cannot  fail  in  time  to  aid  materially  in 
building  up  Laramie.  A fine  spring  in 
the  Black  Hills,  from  which  a ditch  has 
been  dug,  furnishes  an  abundance  of 
clear  cold  water,  running  through  the 
principal  streets.  A prominent  feature 
of  Laramie  is  its  neat  churches.  The 
Laramie  Sentinel  is  a lively  and  well-edit- 
ed newspaper.  On  the  left  after  leaving 
the  town,  and  near  the  crossing  of  the 
river,  fenced  fields  and  claim-shanties  at- 
tract attention,  indicating  that  agricul- 
ture has  made  a start  on  these  plains. 
The  land  when  ploughed  looks  rich  and 
inviting.  Our  route  now  is  through  a 
valley  30  miles  wide  with  mountains  on 
either  side.  Fourteen  miles  from  the 
last  station,  crossing  the  Little  Laramie 
River,,  which  rises  in  the  mountains  to 
the  west,  we  come  to 


Wyoming.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XYIII.  [Rawling. 


Wyomiflig*,  IfVy.  (587  miles),  an 
unimportant  water  and  telegraph  station. 
The  same  description  will  apply  to  Look- 
out and  3Iifter.  At  the  latter  we  are 
at  an  elevation  of  6,827  feet,  and  from 
there  begin  again  to  ascend  as  we  go 
west.  Sage-bush  covers  the  barren  red- 
dish soil,  and  one  cannot  help  thinking 
of  the  oft-repeated  question,  “ What  was 
this  country  made  for  ? ” “ Mark  Twain  ” 
has  given  the  only  answer  when  he  said, 
“ Why,  to  build  a Pacific  Railroad.” 
"What  is  hidden  in  the  soil  of  this  sterile 
country  is  thus  far  unknown. 

Moclc  Cireelf,  Wy.  (623  miles), 
and  Como,  ^Yy.  (638  miles),  are  tele- 
graph-stations, the  latter  having  an  in- 
creased altitude  of  about  400  feet  over 
the  former,  and  near  it  is  a small  lake 
where  is  found  a reptile  well  known 
to  naturalists  (SlredoTi  lichenoides\  but 
called  “ devil-fish  ” here.  It  has  the 
head  and  tail  of  a cat-fish,  with  four  legs 
like  a large  li2:ard.  Notwithstanding  the 
Munchausen  stories  as  to  its  size,  it  is 
usually  about  10  inches  in  length. 

Mcclicino  S5ow,  "Wy.  (645 
miles),  the  next  station,  is  named  from  a 
stream  which  takes  its  rise  in  the  pine- 
forests  of  the  mountains,  and,  like  all 
these  mountain-streams,  was  of  vast 
benefit  for  floating  ties  to  the  railroad 
during  its  construction.  As  the  pine- 
forests  of  the  Eastern  States  are  con- 
sumed and  cut  away,  these  mountain- 
regions  will  furnish  the  next  supply,  and 
the  camp  of  the  Maine  lumbermen  may 
be  moved  to  the  wild  mountain-regions  of 
the  W^est. 

CarI>oia,  Wy.  (656  miles),  at  an 
elevation  of  7,008  feet,  has  become  of 
some  importance  from  the  coal-mines 
which  have  been  opened  here,  giving  em- 
ployment to  a large  number  of  men,  and 
building  up  quite  a village.  One  mine  was 
opened  alongside  of  the  track,  and  large 
quantities  of  coal  were  being  taken  out 
both  for  the  use  of  the  road  and  shipment 
as  far  east  as  Omaha,  when  it  caught 
fire,  and  the  company  was  compelled  to 
open  it  in  another  place ; the  families  liv- 
ing over  the  mine,  considering  it  safer 
to  live  in  some  other  locality,  changed 
places  too.  From 

l®ercy,  Wy.  (669  miles),  we  have 
a fine  view  of  Elk  Mountain^  about  6 


miles  south,  which  is  the  most  promi- 
nent feature  in  the  landscape.  This  is  one 
of  the  peaks  of  the  Medicine  Bow 
Mountains,  rising  above  the  snow,  and 
covered  for  some  distance  up  its  sides 
with  forests  of  pine-timber.  Game  is 
found  here  in  greater  abundance  than  at 
any  other  point  on  the  road.  The  Utes 
have  made  continual  trouble  with  pros- 
pectors in  this  region,  and  there  is  much 
yet  to  be  learned  of  its  condition  and 
value.  Near 

^4.  Mary’s,  'Wy.  (680  miles), 
the  country  becomes  more  rugged  and 
wild,  and  there  are  abundant  evidences 
that  the  whole  valley  was  once  the 
bed  of  a vast  body  of  water.  Nothing 
flourishes  on  the  uplands  but  sage- 
brush, while  Jack  rabbits  and  horned 
toads  with  genuine  tails  are  almost  the 
only  specimens  of  animal  life  which  the 
traveller  can  see.  Fort  Fred  Steele  is 
built  at  the  crossing  of  the  North  Platte^ 
the  same  stream  crossed  before  on  a long 
bridge  290  miles  from  Omaha.  There  it 
was  a wide,  shallow  stream,  with  beds 
of  shifting  quicksand.  Here  the  clear 
waters  flow  over  a pebbly  bed,  and  are 
as  cool  as  can  be  desired  in  the  hot  days 
of  July,  coming  as  they  do  directly  from 
the  snows  of  the  mountains.  A few  trees 
along  the  stream  afford  some  relief  after 
such  a barren  stretch.  The  post  is  sub- 
stantially built  of  pine-logs,  and  stands  in 
a pleasant  location.  Two  miles  beyond  are 
a few  chimneys  and  the  remains  of  some 
old  adobe  buildings  where  once  stood  the 
town  of  Benton  on  an  alkali  plain,  and 
numbered  at  one  time,  in  the  summer  of 
1868,  2,000  persons,  among  whom  whis- 
key-sellers and  gamblers  were  plenty,  but, 
as  the  road  passed  on,  the  people  went 
with  it,  and  nothing  remains. 

Mawliiag',  "Wy.  (709  miles),  an 
eating-station,  is  a point  where  the  rail- 
way has  a round-house  and  machine- 
shops,  with  an  hotel,  etc.  The  whole 
country  is  rough  and  broken,  the  ground 
at  times  white  with  alkali,  the  water 
brackish,  and  nothing  to  induce  an  ex- 
tended stay.  Near  here  some  gold-mines 
have  been  worked,  and  a kind  of  mineral 
paint  is  found  in  large  quantities.  Pass- 
ing between  high  blulfs,  we  come  to 
Separation^  13  miles  beyond,  a small  tele- 
graph-station, and  at 


103 


Creston.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Green  River  Station. 


Crestosa,  "Wy.  (73Y  miles),  we  ar- 
rive at  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  conti- 
nent, from  which  waters  flow  each  way, 
eastward  to  the  Atlantic,  and  westward 
to  the  Pacific.  The  advent  of  the  iron 
rails  was  the  occasion  of  a celebration  at 
this  point,  when  the  long  slope  from  the 
eastward  had  been  climbed,  and  the  de- 
scent to  the  Pacific  was  before  the 
builders  of  the  great  highway. 

'M^saslasaliic  and  Mccl  l>esert 
are  unimportant  stations  on  the  barren 
alkali  plains. 

'Tal>le  SSoclf,  "Wy.  (7 75  miles), 
is  named  from  a level  stretch  of  bluffs  ex- 
tending for  miles  along  the  side  of  the 
road.  Here  there  was  much  labor  in 
building  the  railway,  where  cuts  and 
fillings  continually  succeed  each  other. 

When  the  road  was  being  constructed 
it  was  necessary  to  have  a special  water- 
train  to  supply  the  workmen  and  the 
engines,  while  carrying  forward  the  work 
through  this  section. 

At  ESitter  Wy.  (785 

miles),  the  company  has  erected  a round- 
house and  repair-shops.  Prom  here  we 
descend  the  Bitter  Creek  Valley^  along  a 
stream  so  strongly  impregnated  with  al- 
kali that  freighters  often  suffered  severely 
from  their  cattle  drinking  the  water.  The 
old  stage-road  is  marked  by  telegraph- 
poles. 

We  are  now  reaching  the  end  of  the 
vast  wilderness  through  which  we  have 
been  passing  for  many  hours.  The 
waters  of  Bitter  Creek  are  carried  on  to 
Green  River,  reaching  which,  the  monot- 
ony gradually  gives  way  to  more  pleasant 
scenes.  The  water  is  fresher  and  more 
plentiful,  and  the  verdure  is  brighter. 
“ But,”  says  a traveller,  “ that  which  is 
most  attractive  is  the  novel  and  imposing 
forms  of  architecture  that  Nature  has  left 
to  mark  the  history  upon  these  still  open 
plains.  Long,  wide  troughs,  as  of  departed 
rivers;  long  level  embankments,  as  of 
railroad  tracks  or  endless  fortifications, 
huge,  quaint  hills,  suddenly  rising  from 
the  plain,  bearing  fantastic  shapes  ; great 
square  mounds  of  rock  and  earth,  half- 
formed,  half-broken  pyramids — it  would 
seem  as  if  a generation  of  giants  had 
built  and  buried  here,  and  left  their  work 
to  awe  and  humble  a puny  succession. 
The  Black,  the  Pilot  and  the  Church 
104 


Buttes  are  among  the  more  celebrated  of 
these  huge  monumental  mountains  stand- 
ing on  the  level  plain ; but  the  railway 
track  passes  out  of  sight  of  them  all  ex- 
cept the  Church  Butte,  which,  seen 
under  favorable  lights,  imposes  on  the 
imagination  like  a grand  old  cathedral 
going  into  decay,  quaint  in  its  crumbling 
ornaments,  majestic  in  its  height  and 
breadth.  They  seem,  like  the  more 
numerous  and  fantastic  illustrations  of 
Nature’s  frolicsome  art  in  Southern 
Colorado,  to  be  the  remains  of  granite 
hills  that  wind  and  water,  and  especially 
the  sand  whirlpools  which  march  in 
lordly  force  through  the  air — literally 
moving  mountains — have  left  to  hint 
the  past,  and  tell  the  story  of  their  own 
achievements.  Not  unfitly,  there  as  here, 
they  have  won  the  title  of  “ Monuments 
to  the  Gods.”^ 

IBIaclc  Eliattes,  Wy.  (794 
miles),  is  a coaling-station,  where  coal  of 
superior  quality  is  found  in  abundance 
in  veins  7 to  10  feet  in  thickness.  This 
great  coal-region,  besides  furnishing  fuel 
for  the  road,  is  the  source  which  supplies 
all  towns  along  the  Easte^m  Platte  Valley 
and  Omaha,  and  the  facilities  for  furnish- 
ing it  aids  materially  in  the  settling  of 
the  country. 

of  IKoclfS,  Wy.  (805 
miles),  Weils  (818  miles),  and 

Itoek  ^ps*isags  (832  miles),  are 
small  telegraph-stations  in  a desert  of  the 
same  uninviting  character. 

As  we  approach  Green  River^  the  high 
bluffs  on  either  side  present  an  agreeable 
change  from  the  country  we  have  passed 
through.  The  long  range  of  the  IJintah 
Mountains  are  south  of  us,  and  the  Wind 
River  Mountains  to  the  north.  J 

At  Oreem  ISivep  station, 
"Wy.  (845  miles),  is  the  old  fording 
place  of  the  Overland  stage-line.  On  the 
left,  near  the  bank  of  the  stream,  can  be 
seen  the  remains  of  a number  of  adobe 
buildings,  where  a city  was  laid  out  and 
built,  but  scarcely  inhabited.  The  road 
moved  on,  and  the  town  was  a failure. 
The  track  crosses  Green  River ^ a rapid 
stream — the  color  of  the  water  giving  it 
its  name.  This  stream  rises  about  200 


* “ The  Pacific 
Bowles. 


Railroad — open.” 


By  SamueJ 


(A 

^ ' 
4 


^ - 
\ 


Bryan.] 


OMAEA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [South  Pass. 


miles  above  the  railway-crossing,  and 
empties  into  the  Colorado  River ^ 150 
miles  below.  The  scenery  along  this 
river  is  said  to  be  very  grand,  high  clififs 
rising  on  each  side  more  than  2,000  feet ; 
narrow  gorges  through  v/hich  the  stream 
rushes  with  great  velocity ; mountains 
covered  v/ith  firs  to  their  summits  ; all 
present  wild  but  attractive  scenes  to  the 
explorer.  After  crossing  Green  River 
the  road  advances  along  the  west  side  of 
the  valley,  through  cuts  of  slate  which  is 
found  here  in  great  abundance,  and  may 
some  time  prove  profitable  for  export. 
The  valley  of  the  stream  is  on  our  right, 
and  the  high  bare  rocky  hills  close  on  our 
left.  This  is  a fine  field  for  the  geologist, 
and  days  might  be  spent  in  collecting 
rare  specimens  which  abound  along  the 
stream.  Thirteen  miles  of  heavy  grade 
brings  us  to 

ISfi-yjaia,  (858  miles),  once  a 

notorious  town,  which  was  the  end  of  the 
road  in  September,  1868.  Between  the 
town  and  the  hiUs,  on  the  west,  isRlack's 
Fork^  a tributary  of  Green  River,  which 
we  follow  for  some  distance.  Bryan  was 
a wild  tov/n  while  the  freight  v/as  de- 
livered here  and  shipped  west,  but  one  or 
two  stores,  a stage-office,  two  saloons, 
and  a small  eating-house,  are  about  all 
that  are  occupied  of  the  buildings  that 
remain.  The  dobeys  ” can  be  seen 
everywhere  crumbling  to  decay. 

The  railway  company  has  had  some 
small  repair-shops  here,  employing  200 
men,  but  these  are  to  be  moved  west, 
v/here  coal  is  more  accessible,  and  the 
Sweetwater  stage  and  freight  line  is  to  be 
transferred  to  Green  River,  leaving 
Bryan  without  business  or  visible  means 
of  support.  From  this  point  a line  of 
stages,  carrying  the  mail,  runs  to  the  Sweet- 
loater  mines^  100  miles  northeast ; and,  as 
that  region  has  attracted  some  attention, 
we  will  leave  our  main  route  and  give  a 
description  of  it,  and  a few  notes  on  the 
stage  route  through  which  we  pass. 

SVTEETWATER  MINING  REGION. 

Leaving  Bryan  on  the  stage  in  the 
morning,  after  the  arrival  of  the  eastern 
passenger-train,  our  road  lies  along  the 
railroad  for  several  miles,  till  turning  to 
the  right  we  commence  to  ascend  the 
hills.  The  road  is  a single  track,  heavy 


in  some  places  v^^ith  deep  sand,  worn 
through  never-ending  fields  of  sage- 
brush. Two  hours’  slow  riding  brings  us 
to  the  summit  of  the  hills,  and  looking 
westward  we  can  see  the  track  of  the 
railroad  for  a great  distance.  The  sun 
tinges  the  snow  on  the  Uintah  Mountains 
with  gold,  and  the  low  mountains  north- 
ward mark  the  valley  at  their  base, 
through  which  runs  Green  River.  The 
few  trees  along  this  stream,  which  we 
cross  20  miles  out,  look  pleasant  after  the 
cheerless  prospect  we  have  passed.  Seven 
miles  after  crossing  Green  River  we  strike 
the  Great  Overland  Emigrant  Road^  a 
broad,  smooth,  level,  race-track,  as  it  ap- 
pears, about  60  feet  wide,  with  sage- 
brush on  each  side,  about  two  feet  high. 
From  an  elevated  point  one  can  see  the 
road  for  miles  in  advance,  like  a broad 
ribbon,  on  the  fields  of  sage.  Crossing 
several  small  streams  at  which  there  are 
miniature  stretches  of  pasturage,  once 
welcome  stopping-places  to  the  tired  pil- 
grim, we  arrive  at  dark  at  a small  log 
station,  the  third  house  we  have  seen 
since  leaving  Bryan.  Here  we  remain  for 
the  night,  the  Indians  being  so  trouble- 
blesomc  that  the  stages  travel  only  by 
daylight.  A good  night’s  rest,  and  plain 
but  well-cooked  meals,  of  which  excellent 
coffee  and  juicy  venison  are  the  most  en- 
joyable, fit  us  for  another  day’s  ride,  and 
the  keen  mountain-air  gives  us  new  life 
as  - we  jump  in  and  rattle  away  toward 
the  Pass.  Occasionally  a covey  of  sage- 
hens  starts  up,  and  a sneaking  coyote 
slinks  away  as  we  drive  rapidly  along. 
Antelope,  in  herds  of  several  hundred, 
are  feeding  on  the  scattered  bunches  of 
grass,  and  herds  of  black-tailed  deer  are 
often  seen  on  the  hills.  On  the  left  the 
Wind  River  Mountains^  30  miles  away, 
wall  in  the  view  to  the  north,  while  a roll- 
ing, hilly,  barren  country  stretches  away 
to  the  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 
The  high  rocky  hills  of  the  South  Pass 
ahead  relieve  the  monotony  of  the  ride, 
and,  after  crossing  a small  stream  which 
flows  from  Pacific  Spring^  we  turn  east- 
ward and  the  well-known  opening  through 
the  mountains  lies  before  us.  This  was 
a prominent  place  during  the  overland 
emigration,  on  account  of  its  water  and 
the  grazing  along  the  stream,  but  the  tide 
of  travel  has  left  no  trace  behind,  except 
105 


South  Pass  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Asti:?^. 


a few  graves  of  those  who  had  embarked 
on  this  ocean  and  been  stranded  and  lost, 
and  here  in  this  solitude  a few  piles  of 
stones  mark  the  spot  where  all  their  hopes, 
cares,  and  visions  of  wealth,  found  an 
end,  and  they  sleep  quietly  till  the  great 
awakening.  Through  the  Pass  and  up 
the  long  ascent  we  proceed  slowly  till 
we  reach  the  summit,  where  the  waters 
flow  eastward  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and 
west  to  the  Pacific.  A short  ride  brings 
us  to  the  valley  and  crossing  of  the  Sweet- 
water River ; and  over  hills,  past  huge 
piles  of  rocks  and  clumps  of  pines,  we 
arrive  at 

SontU  City,  a mining  town 

situated  in  a ravine,  and  numbering  per- 
haps 250  houses.  Several  steam-mills 
are  in  sight,  but  for  the  present  there 
is  very  little  doing,  and  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  not  more  than  one  house  in 
twenty  in  any  of  these  mining  towns 
is  occupied.  Many  who  have  invested 
in  mills  here  have  found  that  their  cap- 
ital was  exhausted  before  they  reached 
the  main  lead,  which  extends  through 
this  region,  and  have  been  compelled  to 
stop  operations.  One  mill  which  took  out 
$60,000  the  past  season  still  perseveres  in 
sinking  a shaft,  which  is  down  200  feet. 
Everywhere  along  the  hills  are  prospect- 
holes,  deserted  cabins,  and  hoisting- 
works,  while  the  flumes  in  the  valleys 
show  where  gulch-mining  was  carried  on. 

Atlaaitic  City,  four  miles  beyond, 
is  another  mining-camp,  of  perhaps  a 
hundred  houses,  but  presents  the  same 
dull  appearance.  If  the  ledge  should  be 
found  by  any  of  the  present  persever- 
ing miners,  the  whole  region  would  start 
into  renewed  life. 

Ca/inp  a two-com- 

pany military  post,  has  been  recently  es- 
tablished, two  miles  from  Atlantic,  as  a 
protection  from  the  Indians,  who  have 
killed  many  of  the  miners.  The  Reser- 
vation of  the  Snake  or  Shoshone  Indians^ 
a peaceable  tribe,  is  near  the  post. 
This  region  is  well  worthy  a visit,  and 
particularly  interesting  to  those  who 
have  never  visited  a mining  country; 
and  the  geologist  could  spend  months 
here  with  pleasure  and  profit. 

We  will  now  resume  our  railway 
journey  at  the  point  from  which  we 
made  this  divergence. 

106 


After  leaving  Bryan  Station  the  road 
follov/s  the  valley  of  Black's  Fork^  and 
about  12  miles  out  we  cross  the  old 
Mormon  trail,  plainly  defined,  winding 
its  way  along  the  hills. 

^wraiig-er,  U.  (876  miles),  is 
the  next  station,  and  here  we  enter 
the  Territory  of  Utah,  and  near  hero 
cross  Ham's  Fork^  a small  stream  which 
rises  to  the  northwest  about  50  miles. 
The  old  road  to  Bridger  tends  to  the 
left,  and  we  follow  up  the  valley  of  a 
small  stream  knowm  as  the  Muddy.  The 
broken  hills  on  either  side  approach 
near  the  road  here,  and  their  sides  are 
covered  in  places  with  a scrubby  cedar 
(Juniperus  occidentalis). 

Clmrcli  Siittes,  U.  TT.  (887 
miles),  and  888  from  Sacramento,  is  an 
unimportant  telegraph-station,  receiving 
its  name  from  the  appearance  of  the 
Bluffs  on  the  left  of  the  track. 

Carter,  U.  X.  (904  miles),  the 
next  p^int,  was  once  a place  from  which 
freight  was  hauled  by  teams  to  Mon- 
tana and  Idaho.  Government  freight  for 
Fort  Bridger,  a military  post  on  the  old 
road,  is  shipped  to  this  station.  Wind- 
ing along  the  valley,  with  the  irregular 
hills  on  each  side,  w^e  pass  Bridger  Sta- 
tion (913  miles).  Beyond  here,  on  the 
bank  of  the  little  stream,  some  deserted 
houses,  on  the  right,  mark  the  spot  of  an 
old  ranche  on  the  emigrant  road,  which 
ascends  the  hill  beyond,  to  the  Quaking 
Asp  Range. 

U.  X.  (928  miles),  a 
small  station  in  a narrow  valley,  com- 
prises a dozen  houses,  and  was  headquar- 
ters for  wood-cutters  who  were  at  work 
on  the  hills  during  the  construction  of  the 
road.  From  here  the  road  ascends  rap- 
idly, and  is  well  guarded  from  snow  by 
snow-sheds  which  occur  very  frequently. 

Aspen,  U.  X.  (937  miles),  over 
400  feet  above  Piedmont,  is  7,463  above 
sea-level,  and  the  highest  point  on  this 
range  of  the  mountains.  From  here  we 
descend,  winding  around  the  southern 
base  of  the  hills  to  Bear  River  City.,  which 
was  built  before  the  railroad  reached  here, 
and  it  was  supposed  that  this  would  be 
a railway  station,  but  the  road  passed  on 
to  Evanston.  The  old  stage-road  comes 
down  the  hill  behind  the  town,  and  to  the 
north  and  east  rise  hills  with  clumps  of 


Etanston.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [Castle  Rock. 


scattered  cedar.  Coal-nimes  have  been 
opened  among  the  hills,  within  40  feet  of 
the  track.  The  writer  was  there  in 
November,  1868,  when  the  town  was  at 
its  height  of  business  prosperity,  and  con- 
tained nearly  1,000  people  of  all  classes. 
The  19th  of  that  month  was  memorable 
as  the  occasion  of  the  Bear  River  Riot^ 
when  the  roughs  incited  some  of  the  rail- 
road graders,  and  attacked  the  town, 
destroying  the  jail  and  the  printing-office 
of  the  Frontier  Index^  a newspaper  which 
travelled  along  from  town  to  town  as  the 
road  progressed.  After  this  the  mob 
advanced  on  the  town  but  were  warmly 
received,  seven  of  their  number  being 
killed,  and  many  of  them  wounded.  The 
total  number  of  deaths  in  consequence  of 
this  foolish  raid,  in  which  whiskey  had 
much  to  do,  was  fifteen.  The  road  along 
here  was  for  some  distance  constructed 
by  Mormon  contractors,  and  their  mason- 
ry is  acknowledged  to  have  been  well  and 
faithfully  done.  m 

The  road  keeps  on  down  the  valley  of 
the  small  creek,  until  we  reach  the  Bear 
River  Valley,  Near  the  road  was  a well- 
built  station,  store,  etc,,  of  the  Overland 
stage  company,  and  some  cultivated 
fields,  irrigated  from  the  river.  This 
stream  rises  in  the  Uintah  Mountains 
away  to  the  south,  and,  watering  a beau- 
tiful valley  of  the  same  name,  flows  into 
Salt  Lake  at  Gorinne,  where  it  is  a con- 
siderable stream. 

Crossing  Bear  River,  we  descend  west- 
ward and  reach 

Slvsiiistoit,  U,  T.  (955  miles), 
where  there  are  extensive  mines  of  coal 
of  excellent  quality,  worked  at  a small 
expense.  The  railroad  company  has 
erected  shops  here,  and  the  men  employed 
in  them  and  in  mining  are  building  quite 
a respectable  sized  village. 

Wasatch,  IJ.  T'.  (966  miles),  has 
until  recently  been  a lively  station  on  ac- 
count of  the  number  of  men  employed 
there.  During  the  building  of  the  road, 
it  was  a base  of  supplies  while  the  heavy 
work  was  going  on. 

Within  this  region,  moving  west,  be- 
tween Green  River  and  Salt  Lake  Valley, 
we  pass  through  five  tunnels,  aggregating 
nearly  2,000  feet.  These  tunnels  are  cut 
through  solid  rock,  which  never  crumbles 
nor  disintegrates  from  the  action  of  the 


atmosphere  ; consequently  there  is  no  ne- 
cessity for  arching  them  with  brick,  or  pro- 
tecting them  from  falling  on  passing  trains. 

Half  a mile  west  we  come  to  the 
second  tunnel  thus  far  met  with.  This  is 
'ZVO  feet  long,  and  at  its  eastern  end  is  a 
long  stretch  of  trestle-work,  over  'ZO  feet 
high,  and  as  the  cars  move  slowly  over  it 
we  have  a view  of  the  valley  to  the  left. 
The  road  is  made  on  the  rim  of  the  valley 
by  cutting  down  the  side  of  the  hill ; and 
a tiny  stream  on  the  left  flows  along 
watering  a narroAV  strip  of  green  sward. 

Castle  Itoclf,  il.  T.  (975  miles), 
is  a station  at  the  head  of  Echo  Canon 
(6,240  feet  elevation),  and  now  the  tour- 
ist feels  interested  in  his  approach  to  a 
region  so  often  described  as  rich  in  grand 
and  beautiful  scenery. 

These  canons,  or  ravines,  of  which 
there  are  very  many  in  the  Great  West, 
are  sudden  depressions  in  the  surface  of 
the  earth,  sometimes  of  a vertical  depth 
of  thousands  of  feet.  Nothing  can  be 
more  surprising  and  more  grand  than  the 
pictures  presented  in  these  strange 
passages.  The  effect,  too,  is  always 
heightened  by  the  unexpected  manner  in 
which  the  traveller  comes  upon  them,  as 
no  previous  intimation  is  afforded,  by  the 
topography  of  the  land,  of  their  proxim- 
ity. These  which  we  come  across  in  en- 
tering Utah  are  enchantingly  beautiful. 
They  are  narrow  and  rugged,  with  high 
perpendicular  walls  of  red  rock,  with 
curious  openings  and  fresh  running 
streams,  with  pretty  little  farms  scattered 
over  the  delightful  landscape. 

The  Echo  and  Weber  Canons  are  two 
of  the  most  magnificent  sights  along  the 
whole  Pacific  route,  and  the  tourist  will 
be  fortunate  if  he  passes  them  by  day- 
light. The  rock-ribbed  mountains  on 
both  sides  rise  to  a grand  and  awful 
height.  They  are  bare  of  foliage,  ex- 
cept a stunted  kind  of  pine-tree,  and  the 
tops  are  white  with  snow.  The  road 
winds  around  through  all  the  devious 
turns  of  these  canons,  and  if  there  be  an 
“ observation  car  ” attached  to  the  rear 
of  the  train — as  there  generally  is— -the 
tourist  will  obtain  a fine  view  of  the 
scenery ; or  he  will  have  an  equally  good 
vieAV  if  he  can  persuade  the  engineer  to 
let  him  seat  himself  on  the  pilot  of  the 
locomotive. 


107 


Ecno  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Uintah  Station. 


Whirling  down  the  canon  we  come  to 
Hanging  Jiockj  where,  it  is  said,  Brigham 
Young  delivered  his  first  sermon  to  the 
faithful,  after  arriving  at  Zion.  Six 
miles  from  this  place,  a thousand  feet 
above,  are  seen  the  ruins  of  the  feeble 
fortifications  set  up  when  President 
Buchanan  marched  an  army  against  the 
Mormons,  but  halted  and  went  away 
without  making  any  attack,  leaving  be- 
hind stores  of  provisions,  wagons,  and 
ammunition,  which  fell  into  their  hands. 

Seventeen  miles  from  Castle  Rock, 
after  a descent  of  433  feet,  passing  some 
rocks  of  great  height,  we  turn  to  the 
right,  and  all  at  once  come  to 

I3clio  City,  U.  'S'.  (991  miles), 
a beautiful  and  romantic  place  upon 
which  to  build  a town.  Here  were  the 
railroad  established  headquarters  for  sup- 
plies, and  the  town  for  a while  did  a large 
business.  Prom  here  up  Webe7' Hiver  a.re 
considerable  Mormon  settlements,  and  for 
all  time  to  come  Echo,  unlike  some  other 
railroad  towns,  will  have  an  existence. 
Passing  this  station,  with  the  river  on  our 
left,  v/e  come  to  the  mouth  of 

^Wel>ea-  CaM®M,  SI.  'S'.,  about  5 
miles  below,  v/here  high  rocky  walls  again 
confine  the  view.  Any  description  would 
avail  little  toward  giving  an  idea  of  the 
grandeur  of  the  scene.  Sometimes  large 
clouds  descend  half-way  down  the  moun- 
tain-sides, and  one  feels  as  if  shut  in 
from  the  outer  world.  The  river’s  clear, 
dark-greenish  waters  dash  and  foam  as 
they  rush  down  their  steep,  rocky  chan- 
nel. The  Devil's  Slide,  two  parallel  lines 
of  rock  on  the  left,  extends  from  the  base 
of  the  mountain  to  its  summit,  and  is  an 
object  of  wonder  and  interest.  Mr.  C.  C. 
Pulton,  the  accomplished  editor  of  the 
Baltbnore  American,  in  describing  this 
spot,  says : “ Imagine  a mountain  800 
feet  high,  composed  of  solid  dark-red 
sandstone,  with  a smooth  and  gradually 
ascending  surface  to  its  very  pinnacle, 
and  only  eight  or  ten  degrees  from  being 
perpendicular.  At  the  foot  of  this  moun- 
tain the  Weber  River  winds  its  devious 
course.  Prom  the  base  of  the  immense 
red  mountain  up  its  entire  height  of  800 
feet  is  what  is  called  the  ‘ Devil’s  Slide,’ 
composed  of  white  limestone.  It  consists 
of  a smooth  white  stone  floor  from  base 
to  summit,  about  15  feet  wide,  as  straight 
108 


and  regular  as  if  laid  by  a stone-mason 
with  line  and  plummet.  On  either  side  of 
this  smooth  white  line  is  what  appears 
to  the  eye  to  be  a well-laid  white  stone 
wall,  varying  in  height  from  10  to  30 
feet.  This  white  spectacle  on  the  red 
mountain-side  has  all  the  appearance  of 
being  made  by  man  or  devil  as  a slide 
from  the  top  of  the  mountain  to  the  bed 
of  Weber  River.” 

The  Weber  River  winds  along  through 
these  immense  mountain-ranges,  and  the 
engineering  exhibited  here  is  equal  to 
any  thing  on  the  Cheat  River  Division  of 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway  (de- 
scribed in  Route  X.).  Crossing  the  river 
on  a truss-bridge  we  suddenly  find  our- 
selves in  total  darkness,  passing  through 
a tunnel  550  feet  long,  cut  in  the  solid 
rock  at  great  expense,  and  a little  farther 
onw^ard  we  pass  through  another.  The 
old  emigrant  road  can  be  seen  in  places 
as  it  crosses  from  side  to  side ; but  the 
railroadr^r  the  greater  part  of  the  way 
is  on  the  same  track. 

station,  tr. 'F.  (1,007 
miles),  is  near  some  Mormon  settlements, 
whose  low  log-houses  do  not  speak  very 
highly  of  agricultural  w^ealth,  but  per- 
sistent labor  is  rewarded  with  good  crops 
of  grain  and  vegetables.  Here  the  road 
crosses  the  valley,  and  12  miles  below 
W eber  we  stop  at 

SPevii’.s  Station,  U.  'F. 

(1,019  miles),  where  the  road  is  again 
between  high  rocks  and  lofty  mountains. 
Just  below  the  station  is  Devil's  Gate, 
where  the  stream  rushes  through  a nar- 
row gorge.  If  the  tourist  can  stop  for  a 
view  of  this  wild  scene,  and  climb  to  the 
top  of  the  high  knoll  on  the  right,  he  will 
look  down  on  a rush  of  waters  50  feet 
below  him  with  a loud  roar  like  a cataract, 
while  the  wall  on  the  opposite  side  rises 
up  to  a great  height.  Passing  over  a 
bridge  high  above  the  stream  now  escaped 
from  its  confinement,  he  can  look  down 
on  its  foaming  waters  as  they  dash 
against  the  big  bowlders  in  the  channel 
Three  miles  farther  we  emerge  from  grim 
battlements  of  rocks,  and  catch  the  first 
view  of  Salt  Lake  Valley  as  we  near 

Uiiataii  Station,  U.  T.  (1,024 
miles) — 1,690  feet  lower  than  Castle 
Rock  where  we  entered  this  mountain- 
gorge  and  commenced  our  rapid  descent. 


Ogden.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Lake  City. 


For  some  time  this  station  was  the  point 
where  passengers  left  the  railway  and 
went  by  stage  to  Salt  Lake.  The  amount 
of  freight  unloaded  here  at  that  time 
made  business  brisk,  and  the  town  of 
Desertj  as  it  was  called,  promised  to  be  a 
place  of  importance ; but  on  the  junction 
of  the  two  roads  being  fixed  at  Ogden, 
and  the  Utah  Central  Railway  built  from 
there,  its  prospects  of  greatness  vanished. 

U. '5'.  (1,032  miles  from 
Omaha,  and  742  from  Sacramento),  is 
the  end  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway^ 
although  that  company  built  52  miles 
farther,  and  for  a while  connected  with 
the  Central  Pacific  Railway  at  Promon- 
tory; but  a mutual  arrangement  fixed 
Ogden  as  the  junction,  and  where  the 
connection  should  be  made  with  the 
Utah  Central  Railway. 

Ogden  has  no  commercial  importance. 
It  has  no  churches ; but  there  is  here  a 
resident  Episcopal  clergyman  who  con- 
ducts divine  services,  and  tljQ|re  is  a 
flourishing  school.  The  Methodists  also 
hold  services  here.  The  Ogden  House  is 
the  principal  hotel. 

Supposing  that  every  pers*»h  travelling 
for  pleasure  will  wish  to  visit  the  “ desert 
home  of  the  Mormons,”  we  shall  here 
leave  the  main  road,  and,  after  a ride  of 
36  miles  in  the  cars  of  the  Utah  Central 
Railway^  shall  find  ourselves  at 

SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

Salt  Lake  City,  the  capital  of  the  Ter- 
ritory of  Utah,  is  1,068  miles  west  of 
Omaha,  and  916  miles  east  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. It  lies  in  a great  valley,  extending 
close  up  to  the  base  of  the  Wasaidi 
Mountains  on  the  north,  wdth  an  expan- 
sive view  to  the  south  of  more  than  100 
miles  of  plains,  beyond  which  in  the  dis- 
tance rise,  clear  cut  and  grand  in  the 
extreme,  the  gray,  jagged,  and  rugged 
mountains  whose  peaks  are  eovered  with 
perpetual  snow.  The  highest  of  these 
mountains  is  11,400  feet  above  the  sea. 

Adjoining  the  eity  is  a fine  agricultural 
and  mining  region,  which  has  a large  and 
growing  trade.  The  elimate  of  the  val- 
ley is  healthful,  and  the  soil,  where  it  can 
be  irrigated,  is  extremely  fertile.  The 
tourist  should  spend  at  least  one  week 
in  the  city  and  its  neighborhood. 

The  population  of  Salt  Lake  City  by 


the  last  census  is  17,282 — those  bom  in 
the  United  States  numbering  10,214,  and 
in  other  countries  7,068.  This,  at  first 
glance,  seems  to  contradict  the  popular 
belief  that  the  followers  of  Brigham 
Young  have  been  recruited  chiefly  in 
foreign  countries  ; but  when  the  tables 
showing  nativity  of  parents,  the  relative 
numbers  of  the  sexes  and  the  number  of 
children,  are  prepared,  this  seeming  con- 
tradiction may  be  explained. 

The  city  covers  an  area  of  about  nine 
miles,  or  three  miles  each  way,  and  is 
handsomely  laid  out.  The  streets  are 
very  wide,  with  irrigating  ditches  passing 
through  all  of  them,  keeping  the  shade- 
trees  and  orchards  looking  beautiful. 
Every  block  is  surrounded  with  shade- 
trees,  and  nearly  every  house  has  its  neat 
little  orchard  of  apple,  peach,  apricot, 
plum,  and  cherry  trees.  Fruit  is  very 
abundant,  and  the  almond,  the  catalpa, 
and  the  cotton-wood  tree  grow  side  by 
side  with  the  maple,  the  willow,  and  the 
locust.  In  fact,  the  whole  nine  square 
miles  is  almost  one  continuous  garden. 

From  Ensign  Park  one  of  the  finest 
views  in  the  overland  line  is  obtained. 

The  city  is  divided  into  blocks  of  ton 
acres,  each  block  being  divided  into  eight 
lots.  These  are  only  subdivided  in  the 
business  and  more  thickly  settled  parts 
of  the  city.  The  blocks  are  divided  into 
wards,  of  which  there  are  20,  each  hav- 
ing its  meeting-house  and  bishop.  The 
building  material  mostly  used  is  sun-dried 
brick,  covered  with  plaster,  and  the 
houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  cover- 
ing much  space.  A few  of  the  newer 
stores  are  built  of  stone,  and  are  elegant 
and  capacious  within  and  without. 

There  are  three  hotels,  the  Salt  Lake^ 
Townsend^  and  Revere  Houses^  and  several 
small  boarding-houses  and  restaurants. 

There  are  no  street-cars  or  even  omni- 
buses, except  those  which  carry  passen- 
gers from  the  railway  station  to  the  hotels. 
The  Mormon  mode  of  conveyance  is  by 
emigrant  wagons  drawn  by  mules  or  oxen 
such  as  one  sees  in  pictures  of  “ crossing 
the  continent.”  A very  few  of  the  church 
dignitaries  only  have  private  carriages. 

The  Theatre^  the  chief  place  of  enter- 
tainment, is  a great  building,  gloomy- 
looking  from  the  street,  but  the  interior 
is  handsomely  finished  in  white  and  gold. 

109 


N 


Salt  Lake  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Salt  Lake  City 


It  is  172  feet  long,  80  feet  wide,  and  40 
feet  from  floor  to  ceiling.  It  seats  1,600 
persons,  and,  in  its  arrangements  and 
appointments,  is  considered  the  finest  on 
the  continent,  outside  of  New-York  City. 

There  are  several  public  halls  where 
concerts  and  other  entertainments  are 
given;  but  the  chief  amusement  of  the 
Mormons  is  dancing,  and  this  is  done 
principally  in  the  school-houses  or  meet- 
ing-houses. 

The  Tabernacle  is  the  first  object  to 
attract  the  eye  as  one  approaches  the 
city,  although  far  removed  from  being 
imposing,  or  possessing  any  architectural 
beauty.  It  is  of  wood,  excepting  the  46 
parallelogram  pillars  of  red  sandstone, 
upon  which  rests  its  immense  dome-like 
roof.  These  piUars  are  nine  feet  deep, 
by  three  feet  wide,  and  about  12  feet 
high,  the  space  between  them  being  filled 
up  with  doors  and  windows.  The  Taber- 
nacle is  the  largest  hall  on  the  continent 
with  a single-span  “ self-supporting  roof.” 
It  is  oval  in  shape  inside  and  out,  250 
feet  long,  and  150  feet  wide,  and  will  seat 
comfortably  between  8,000  and  10,000 
persons.  The  ceiling  is  62  feet  from  the 
floor.  The  place  is  used  for  worship, 
lectures,  and  debates. 

The  Tabernacle  organ  is  the  largest 
ever  built  in  the  United  States.  There 
are  only  two  larger  in  the  country,  both 
of  which  were  brought  from  Europe. 
One  of  these  is  at  Boston,  and  the  other 
in  Plymouth  Church,  Brooklyn.  The 
Mormon  organ  has  2,000  pipes.  It  was 
built  by  an  Englishman,  Mr.  Joseph 
Ridges.  The  woodwork  is  white  moun- 
tain pine,  stained  a dark  mahogany  color. 

The  Endov)ment  House  is  an  inferior- 
looking adobe  building,  in  which  the 
Mormons  receive  their  endowments  from 
on  high,  where  their  baptisms  for  the 
dead  are  performed,  and  where  their  seal- 
ings for  eternity,  and  many  other  of  their 
sacred  rites,  are  observed.  No  Gentile  is 
allowed  within  its  sacred  walls. 

The  Temple^  if  ever  finished,  will  be  a 
magnificent  building.  The  corner-stone 
was  laid  some  eighteen  years  ago,  and  the 
foundation  is  now  but  little  above  the  level 
of  the  ground.  It  will  probably  never  be 
much  higher.  Millions  of  dollars  have  been 
raised  in  England  toward  its  erection,  and 
20  years  ago,  before  the  corner-stone  was 
110 


laid,  solicitations  were  made  for  the 
stained  glass  windows,  the  painting,  the 
seats,  etc.,  and  money  is  being  solicited 
to-day  for  the  same  things.  Only  a few 
months  since  money  was  being  subscribed 
for  nails  with  which  to  put  on  the  shin- 
gles. 

The  Mormons,  as  a religious  body,  are 
fast  losing  their  footing.  Schisms  and 
divisions  are  common  among  them.  They 
have  three  visible  organizations  in  the 
bity,  each  with  its  regular  services : the 
Josephites,  the  Godbeites,  and  the  ortho- 
dox Brighamites.  The  Godbeites  are 
rapidly  gaining  in  numbers.  They  are, 
for  the  most  part,  disaffected  Brighamites, 
and  are  a powerful  and  influential  party. 
Their  organ  is  the  Salt  Lake  Tribune^  and 
they  have  recently  built  a separate  meet- 
ing-house for  worship. 

[An  interesting  sketch  of  the  rise  and 
progress  of  Mormonism,  by  Mr.  W.  F. 
Rae,  will  be  found  in  the  chapter  on  Utah.] 

St,  Markus  Mission^  of  the  Protestant 
Episcopal  Ohurch,  is  in  a flourishing  con- 
dition, holding  regular  services  in  Inde- 
pendence Hall^  having  a Sunday-school  of 
200  childreif,"  a day-school  with  230,  and 
a church  edifice  nearly  completed.  There 
are  at  present  no  churches  in  Salt  Lake 
City,  and  St.  Markus  Church  will  be  the 
only  building  in  it  that  can  pretend  to 
architectural  beauty  or  finish.  It  is  be- 
ing built  of  red  sandstone,  handsomely 
cut,  in  the  Gothic  style,  and  will  cost 
about  $40,000. 

The  Methodists  have  regular  services 
in  a hall,  a flourishing  Sunday-school,  and 
a day-school. 

St.  Mark's  School  is  the  nearest  ap- 
proach to  a free  school  in  the  Territory. 
The  terms  for  instruction  are  reasonable  to 
those  able  to  pay,  and  free  to  those  who 
cannot  pay.  There  is  an  able  corps  of 
teachers,  with  Bishop  Tuttle  as  rector, 
and  pupils  can  pass  a thorough  academic 
course  preparatory  for  college,  including 
all  the  higher  branches,  Latin,  Greek,  and 
Hebrew.  The  school  has  230  pupils,  and 
many  are  turned  away  for  want  of  ac- 
commodation. The  building,  with  all  its 
surroundings,  is  poorly  adapted  to  its 
present  purpose. 

The  Mormon  school  system  is  very  de- 
ficient. The  Deseret  University.,  quite  a 
recent  institution,  is  a school  where  the 


S.  Lake  City.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FKANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Lake  City. 


higher  branches  of  education  are  taught, 
and  where  the  church  dignitaries  and 
others  who  can  afford  it  send  their  elder 
children.  It  is  said  the  university  has  an 
able  corps  of  teachers. 

There  is  nothing  like  a respectable 
school  building,  with  its  separate  depart- 
ments and  proper  appointments,  in  the 
whole  Territory.  This  university  and  Brig- 
ham’s private  school-house  are  the  only 
ones  that  are  intended  especially  for 
schools. 

The  Mormons  have  no  regular  system  of 
public  instruction  like  that  so  familiar  to 
all  in  the  United  States.  Teaching  is 
taken  up  occasionally  by  any  who  may 
choose  to  give  instruction  in  their  ward 
meeting-houses,  but  the  course  never  ex- 
ceeds three  months  in  a year.  The  terms, 
too,  are  high,  and  very  many  persons  can- 
not afford  to  send  their  children  to  school 
at  all.  Consequently,  it  is  not  surprising 
that  the  education  of  the  large  majority 
of  the  population  consists  sim^y  of  read- 
ing and  writing,  and  that  evet  very  im- 
perfectly, while  many  others  c^^ot  even 
read  and  write. 

The  City  Hall  is  a substiwiitiai  building 
of  red  sandstone,  with  the  doors  and 
windows  in  front  finished  in  oak  graining. 
It  is  60  feet  square,  and  is  surmounted 
by  a clock  tower.  It  contains  offices  for 
the  mayor,  recorder,  and  city  treasurer ; 
a court-room  where  the  aldermen’s  and 
justices’  courts  are  held;  the  city  at- 
torney’s office,  the  Territorial  Library, 
Council  Chamber,  office  of  the  Adjutant- 
General  of  the  Territorial  militia,  and 
chambers  in  which  the  Territorial  Legis- 
lature meets. 

The  City  Prison  is  in  the  rear.  It  is 
strongly  built  of  red  sandstone. 

Temple  Bloch ^ like  the  other  blocks,  as 
already  stated,  contains  ten  acres.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a solid  wall,  12  feet  high. 
Though  not  the  centre  of  the  city,  it  is 
the  centre  of  the  hopes  of  thousands  who 
come  to  Zion  for  their  salvation.  It  con- 
tains the  foundation  of  the  Temple^  the 
old  and  new  Tabernacles,  and  the  Endow- 
ment House, 

Brigham)s  Block^  which  is  east  of 
Temple  Block,  contains  the  Tithing  House, 
the  Deseret  News  office,  Brigham’s  Bee- 
hive House,  the  Lion  House,  his  private 
telegraph-office,  and  other  offices,  the 


Museum,  a private  school-house,  and 
various  other  smaller  buildings,  dwellings, 
shops,  etc.,  the  whole  enclosed  by  a solid 
high  stone  wall,  with  close  heavy  gates. 

The  lAon  House  is  so  named  from  a 
figure  of  a lion  over  the  front  entrance, 
and  the  Bee-Hive  House  from  a carved 
bee-hive  in  front,  emblematic,  respec- 
tively, of  strength  and  industry.  Some 
eighteen  or  twenty  of  Brigham  Young’s 
wives  are  living  in  these  two  houses.  His 
first  wife  lives  in  the  White  House^  which  is 
within  the  same  enclosure.  Some  of  his 
other  wives  are  living  in  different  parts 
of  the  city  and  Territory. 

There  are  no  parks  in  Salt  Lake  City, 
and  the  public  squares  are  simply  vacant 
blocks,  of  which  there  are  two  or  three, 
without  trees  or  shrubbery.  Neither  are 
there  any  drives  or  walks.  Indeed  there 
is  not  a rod  of  pavement  of  any  kind, 
nor  a street  crossing  in  the  whole  city, 
although  the  people  here  have  been 
taxed  enough  almost  to  pave  the  streets 
with  gold.  The  Mormons  evidently  do 
not  believe  in  marring  the  simplicity  of 
Nature  by  public  improvements,  so  one 
must  be  almost  suffocated  with  dust  in 
summer,  and  wade  through  mud  in  win- 
ter. 

The  manufactories  of  Salt  Lake  City 
embrace  a sash-and-blind  factory,  a 
steam-planing  mill,  a paper-mill,  and  some 
adobe-brick  yards.  There  are  two  cotton- 
factories  in  the  Territory,  and  ten  woollen- 
factories. 

The  newspapers  published  in  the  city 
are  the  Deseret  News  and  the  Salt  Lake 
Herald^  formerly  called  the  Telegraphy 
both  daily,  and  organs  of  the  Brighamite 
faction.  The  Salt  Lake  Daily  TribunCy 
as  has  been  already  stated,  is  the  Godbe- 
ite  organ. 

The  Mormon  Ccmeteryy  the  only  bury- 
ing-ground,  lies  on  the  bench,  to  the 
northeast  of  the  city.  It  is  a barren  and 
dismal-looking  place,  without  grass,  tree, 
or  shrub.  There  are  no  walks  nor 
drives,  no  handsome  monuments,  the 
majority  of  the  graves  being  without 
headstones,  and  many  without  even  a 
wooden  slab  to  mark  the  spot  where 
rest  the  dead. 

Most  of  the  Gentiles  are  buried  at  Camp 
Douglas,  "where  they  prefer  their  remains 
to  be  taken. 


Ill 


CORINNE.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Promontory  Point. 


Camp  Douglas  is  a post  established  by 
General  E.  P.  Conner,  in  1862,  garrisoned 
by  a few  hundred  militia.  It  is  located 
700  feet  higher  than,  and  two  miles  east 
of,  Salt  Lake  City,  on  a sloping  upland  or 
bench,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and 
commands  a fine  view  of  the  city,  ralley, 
and  mountains.  Thomas  W.  Haskins  is 
post  chaplain. 

Coriioac,  U.  X.  (1,055  miles),  the 
first  station  on  the  Central  Pacific  RaiU 
way^  is  a thriving  place,  and  promises  to 
be  of  considerable  commercial  impor- 
tance as  the  great  distributing  point  for 
the  Montana  trade.  Virginia  City,  360 
miles,  and  Helena,  480  miles  distant,  are 
reached  by  Wells,  Eargo  & Co.’s  daily  line 
of  coaches,  which  carry  the  U.  S.  mail, 
express  matter,  and  passengers. 

The  recent  excitement  in  Utah,  conse- 
quent on  the  discovery  of  extensive  sil- 
ver-mines in  the  Salt  Lake  region,  prom- 
ises to  make  Corinne  a very  important 
place.  A steamer  of  500  tons’  burden, 
called  “ The  City  of  Corinne,”  has  been 
launched  to  ply  between  Corinne  and 
Black  Rock,  on  the  southwest  shore  of 
Salt  Lake,  a route  of  70  miles,  whence  a 
railroad  is  projected  southward  through 
the  heart  of  Rush  Valley,  East  Canon, 
Camp  Floyd,  Tintic,  Levere,  and  Star 
districts,  to  Meadow  Valley.  This  road 
will  leave  many  of  the  mining  dis- 
tricts but  a few  miles  to  the  right  and 
left. 

The  nearest  mine  to  the  steamboat 
landing  is  five  miles,  and  others  are  thir- 
teen, twenty,  and  various  distances,  ac- 
cessible, however,  and  greatly  in  need  of 
just  such  freighting  facilities  as  “The 
Cfity  of  Corinqe  ” will  afford.  Corinne 
secures  the  trade  and  traffic  of  most  of 
the  silver-producing  regions  by  this  step, 
and  the  expenses  will  be  much  less  than 
heretofore,  when  the  ore  has  been  hauled 
by  teams  from  30  to  50  miles  over  some 
of  the  worst  roads  in  the  West.  The 
products  of  East  Canon,  Tintic,  Levere, 
and  Piouch,  will  seek  this  line.  What 
the  ten  thousand  miners  who  will  be  at 
work  in  the  silver  districts  will  need  of 
supplies,  produce,  and  the  results  of  their 
labor,  will  all  go  to  this  sole  steamboat 
venture  between  the  Missouri  and  the 
Pacific  coast.  The  result  will  be  a di- 
version of  much  of  the  business  from  Salt 
112 


Lake  which  has  heretofore  sought  the 
railroad  at  that  point.  Corinne  and  Og- 
den are  become  masters  of  the  situation, 
and,  with  both  bidding  to  be  the  chief 
city  of  Utah,  they  promise  in  the  long- 
run  to  get  ahead  of  Salt  Lake  City. 

A description  of  the  silver-mines  will 
be  found  in  the  chapter  on  Utah,  in  an- 
other part  of  the  volume. 

Resuming  our  journey,  ascending  and 
passing  out  of  the  Salt  Lake  Valley,  we 
skirt  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake, 
cross  Bear  River ^ its  chief  tributary, 
until  we  come  to  Blue  Creek^  which 
crossing  on  a trestle-bridge,  300  feet  long, 
taking  our  way  through  deep  cuttings 
and  heavy  fillings,  and  rounding  a sharp 
curve,  we  find  ourselves  at 

E®r©iiioiatory  "0J.  X# 

(1,084  miles),  which  is  700  feet  above 
Ogden.  This  is  a spot  which  will  be  re- 
garded with  much  interest  by  the  tourist 
as  the  one  where  the  two  companies 
building  railway,  on  the  lOtff  of  May, 
1869,  jbiied  th^ir  tracks,  and,  with  a 
golden  sf^ke^  driven  by  a silver*  hammer 
into  a ro  y'wood  tie,  fastened  the  last  rail 
connecting  3^5  Pacific  with  the  Atlantic. 
The  ceremony  of  ‘driving  the  last  spike  . 
was  marked  by  an  incident  to  which  a 
parallel  will  be  sought  in  vain  among  the 
many  extraordinary  feats  of  modern  • 
times.  The  hammer  with  which  the 
blows  were  given  was  connected  to  a wire 
in  direct  communication  with  the  prin- 
cipal telegraph-  offices  throughout  the 
Union.  Thus,  the  instant  that  the  woj;lc 
was  consummated  the  result  was  siinul-^,  . 
taneously  saluted  on  the  shores  of  two  ‘ 
great  oceans,  and  throughout  the  wide 
expanse  of  a vast  continent,  by"^ the  roar  - 
of  cannon  and  the  ringing  of  bells. 

Lest  any  curious  traveller  should  waste 
his  time  in  seeking  for  the  precious  spike 
and  the  valuable  sleeper,  we  may  state 
that  they  were  removed  almost  as  soon 
as  laid,  and  that  pieces  of  ordinary  wood 
and  iron  were  substituted  for  them.  But 
these,  however,  did  not  long  remain  in- 
tact. The  hoarders  of  relics  hacked  the 
sleeper  into  splinters  in  the  course  of  a 
few  minutes,  and  attacked  the  last  rail 
with  a vigor  which  had  the  effect  of  h 
rendering  it  worthless.  The  sleeper  had 
to  be  renewed  three  times  and  the  rail 
once  in  the  course  of  a week.  Even  then, 


Salt  Lake.]  OMx\HA  TO  SAN  FRANCTSCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [Hum.  Wells, 


credulous  visitors  were  still  busied  in 
cutting  rnenientoes  of  the  “ last  tie.’’ 

'TSa©  Cwresat  B^silce  is  so 

ealty  that  no  living  thing  can  exist  in  it. 
The  road  skirts  the  north  side  of  the 
lake,  while  the  Mormon  city  lies  east  of 
the  south  end  of  it.  It  is  about  45  miles 
in  width  and  126  miles  in  length,  as  quiet 
and  placid  amid  its  mountain  barriers  as 
the  water  in  a basin.  It  has  numerous 
Islands  on  its  iSosom,  one  of  which,  called 
Antelope,  is  15  miles  in  length.  The 
water  of  this  lake  is  so  buoyant  it  is 
difficult  to  sink  in  it,  and  if  allowed  to 
dry  on  one’s  body  the  salt  Avill  fall  off  in 
scales.  These  inlands  would  make  mag- 
nifictjnt  summer  resorts,  and  probably  the 
day  is  not  very  distant  when  they  will 
be  occupied  for  that  purpose,  and  little 
pleasure-steamers  will  ^be  used  to  ex- 
plore the  re’cesses.  After  leaving '^Prom- 
ontory and  the  borders  of  Salt  Lajie,  we 
enter  upon  that  extended  plateau,  about 
60  miles  in  width  and  of.  the  same  length, 
known  as  Iqi 

'Flfle  l>es- 

eirt,  which  expands  t over  MrU^Area  of 
about  60  square  miles.  Its  surface 
is  covered  with  a sapless  weed,  five  or  six 
inches  in  height,  and  is  never  known  to 
grow  any  thing  green  that  could  be  used 
to  sustain  animal  life.  The  earth  is  a 
mixture  of  salt,  -and  there  is  every  indica- 
tion that  in  times  long  past  it  was  a part 
of  the  bed  of  Salt  fiake,  bounded  on  one 
side  by  the  Sierra,  and.  on  the  other  by 
the  California  Mountains.  The  only  living 
things  found  Upon  it  are  lizards  and  what 
are  called  jackass  rabbits  ; the  only  land- 
scape feature,  dry,  brown,  and  bare  moun- 
tains. This  desert  probably  has  no  agri- 
cultural future.  In  dry  weather  the  trav- 
eller has  to  expect  blinding  showers  of 
alkali-dust.  Passing  through  liozel  and 
Monument^  uninteresting  stations,  we 
come  to 

W.  T,  (1,123  miles).  A 
daily  line  of  stages  for  Idaho  and  Oregon 
starts  from  this  point,  carrying  passengers 
through  to  Boise  City  in  two  days  ; Walla 
Walla,  four  days  ; Portland  via  Umatilla, 
on  the  Columbia  River,  five  and  a half 
days. 

Matliia,  W.  T.  (1,137  miles),  is 
about  midway  of  the  Great  American 
Hesert,  and  is  worth  mentioning  for  no 


oth-er  reason.  Terrace  (1,153  miles),  and 
Bovine  (1,164  miles),  and  other  small  set 
tlements  in  the  wilderness  are  passed, 
and  we  soon  reach 

Nev.  (1,214  miles),  the 
commencement  of  Humboldt  Division, 
which  extends  to  Winnemucca,  237  miles 
distant.  This  place  is  now  only  an  eat- 
ing-station ; but  promises  to  become  the 
important  diverging  point  from  the  rail- 
road, for  the  following-named  rapidly-de- 
veloping mining  districts,  viz.  : Deep 
Creek,  Egan  Canon,  Ely,  Kern,  Kinsley, 
Pahranagat,  and  Patterson.  A stage-line 
runs  from  Toano  to  Egan  Canon,  90  miles 
to  the  south.  It  is  to  be  extended  to 
Ely  District,  225  miles,  where  the  Pioclie 
mines  are  being  worked.  Ten  miles  from 
Toano  we  come  to 

Nev.  (1,224  miles),  which 
divides  the  desert  from  Humboldt  Valley, 
and  where  we  commence  descending  a 
long  grade  until  we  reach  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada Mountains. 

Otego  (1,280  miles),  a signal-station, 
Independence  (1,236  miles),  Jioor’s,  1,242 
miles),  and  Cedar . (1,244  miles),  are 
passed,  and  we  stop  at 

■Wells,  Nev.  (1,250  miles),  an  un- 
important place  in  itself,  but  of  interest 
as  being  in  the  neighborhood  of  rich  sil- 
ver, copper,  and  lead  mines  discovered 
in  the  latter  part  of  1870.  Smelting- 
works  have  been  erected,  and,  as  the  dis- 
trict is  well  supplied  with  wood  and 
water,  it  is  likely  to  attain  some  promi- 
nence. 

"Wells,  In  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Wells  also,  situated  in  a 
lovely  valley,  are  the  Humboldt  Wells^  a 
favorite  resting-place  with  immigrants 
before  the  building  of  the  Pacific  road. 
There  are  about  twenty  of  these  wells  or 
springs  scattered  in  short  distances  from 
each  other.  Although  within  200  or  300 
yards  of  the  road,  these  are  almost  hidden 
from  the  view  of  the  tourist  by  the  tall, 
rank  grass  that  surrounds  them.  The 
company  obtains  its  supply  of  water  from 
them.  It  is  supposed  that  they  are 
craters  of  extinct  volcanoes  ; they  have 
been  sounded  to  a great  depth,  but  no 
bottom  has  been  found.  The  Humboldt 
Wells  are  one  of  the  greatest  curiosities 
in  the  Humboldt  A^alley,  and  should  by 
all  means  be  visited  by  the  tourist. 

113 


Humboldt  Valley.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Palisade 


T*lie  'Falley.  Leav- 

ing the  high,  broad,  barren,  and  forbid- 
ding vallcjs  or  plains  through  which  our 
route  has  lain  since  leaving  Salt  Lake, 
the  traveller  bails  with  delight  his  ap- 
proach to  the  fertile  Humboldt  Valley, 
through  which  we  are  now  passing,  fol- 
lowing the  course  of  the  Humboldt  River. 
This  is  the  old  immigrant  route  across 
the  continent.  After  passing  through  the 
Great  American  Desert  the  sight  of  a 
running  river  and  luxuriant  vegetation  is 
most  enjoyable.  The  Humboldt  River 
freshens  and  enriches  this  region.  It 
has  its  source  in  the  mountains  of  that 
name,  and  flows  westward  for  about  250 
miles.  Along  its  banks  is  a thick  fringe 
composed  of  willow-trees  and  a variety 
of  shrubs.  It  is  characteristic  of  this 
part  of  the  country  that,  as  soon  as  the 
land  is  irrigated,  almost  any  plant  or 
vegetable  can  be  grown  upon  it.  The 
climate  is  genial.  If  it  were  not  for  the 
lack  of  rain,  millions  of  acres  might  be  at 
once  brought  under  cultivation.  Hence 
the  extreme  value  of  the  tract  adjacent  to 
a stream  of  water  large  enough  to  supply 
all  that  is  required  for  the  purposes  of 
irrigation.  When  the  immigrants  former- 
ly traversed  this  route,  they  timed  their 
halting-places  so  as  to  be  within  easy 
reach  of  a river.  In  many  places  there 
are  numerous  pools  of  water  ; but  for  the 
most  part  these  are  so  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  alkali  as  to  be  even  more  un- 
drinkable than  sea-water.  The  alkali 
water  burns  the  tongue,  inflames  the 
throat,  and  irritates  the  stomach. 

Continuing  our  way  through  the  val- 
ley, leaving  behind  us  Tnla6co  (1,258 
miles),  Deeth  (1,271  miles),  Hallcck  (1,284 
miles),  hidden  from  view  by  intervening 
mountains,  and  Feko  (1,287  miles) — all 
unimportant  stations — we  cross  the  North 
Fork  by  a substantial  bridge,  and  soon 
reach  Omw  (1,297  miles),  where  the  val- 
ley suddenly  terminates.  Ten  miles’  ride 
through  a grand  and  wild  region  of  river, 
^canon,  and  mountain,  brings  us  to  Elko. 

, Elltto,  Nev,  (1,307  miles),  is  one 
of  the  most  important  railway  stations 
between  the  Rocky  and  Sierra  Nevada 
Mountains.  It  is  the  capital  of  Elko 
(’ounty,  and  supply-station  for  numerous 
oiitl}dng  mining  districts,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  White  Pine,  Cope, 
114 


Bull  Run,  Wyoming,  Bruno,  Murray, 
Railroad,  Mineral  Hill,  and  Eureka.  With 
little  more  than  a year’s  growth,  Elko 
has  already  a population  of  6,000  ; con- 
tains some  150  stores,  groceries,  and 
restaurants ; three  extensive  freight-de- 
pots and  forwarding-houses;  a first-class 
hotel,  at  which  railway  passengers  get 
their  meals ; two  banking-houses,  two 
newspapers,  a spacious  court-house,  and 
a flourishing  school.  One  mile  from 
town  are  located  mineral  springs  fitted 
up  for  bathing  purposes,  and  possessing 
remarkable  healing  properties,  and  of 
any  temperature  desired.  Some  idea  can 
be  formed  of  the  amount  of  business 
transacted  in  Elko,  from  the  fact  that 
during  the  busy  season  about  $30,000 
worth  of  passenger  tickets  are'  sold  per 
month  at  the  station,  and  $5,000  per  day 
is  paid  for  freight. 

Moleeia,  P¥ev.  (1,319  miles),  is 
only  a side-track.  Before  reaching  the 
next  station  we  cross  Maggie's  Creek.,  so 
named  A’Ter  a pretty  little  Scotch  girl, 
pet  of  a "oa^ud  of  immigrants  who  many 
years  agb'vpk)'sed  this  way. 

Carliit^i^Nev.  (1,330  miles),  is  a 
rising  town,  and  aspires  to  rival  Elko  for 
the  White  Pine  trade.  It  is  a point  of 
departure  from  the  west  for  Idaho.  For 
nearly  200  miles  to  the  west  of  this  place 
the  scenery  continues  to  be  monotonous, 
consisting  of  wide  barren  plains  bordered 
by  mountain-slopes.  The  Humboldt  Riv- 
er, with  its  banks  fringed  with  shrubs 
and  plants,  and  the  land  for  some  dis- 
tance on  either  side  affording  grazing- 
ground  for  herds  of  cattle,  alone  give  a 
slight  variety  to  the  scene.  Now  and 
then  a prairie-wolf  slinks  aside  as  the 
passing  train  startles  it  from  its  lair. 
More  than  one  rude  monument  may  be 
seen,  indicating  the  spot  where  a foul 
murder  had  beeli  perpetrated  or  a bloody 
combat  had  been  waged.  It  was  in  this 
locality  that  the  Indians  made  a savage 
onslaught  on  those  engaged  in  construct- 
ing the  line,  murdering,  scalping,  and 
plundering  several  white  men. 

Nev.  (1,339  miles),  is 
the  most  important  point  between  Ogden 
and  Reno ; it  is  the  distributing  point  for 
Mineral  Hill,  Eureka,  Spring  Valley,  Se- 
cret Canon,  Grantsville,  and  other  dis- 
tricts south  of  the  road.  From  this 


Argenta.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [Wadsworth, 


place  stages  take  their  departure  for 
White  Fine  and  neighboring  districts. 
It  is  near  this  station  that  we  see  The 
Fulisades  in  their  grandeur — the  moun- 
tains rearing  their  heads  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  in  height.  Crossing  the 
river  to  the  south  bank,  we  pass  Cluro 
(1,350  miles),  a side-track,  make  our  way 
through  Hot  Springs  Valley^  where  there 
is  a huge  crater  full  of  steaming  sulphur- 
water,  and  reach  Be-o-wa-we{\^ib^  miles). 
Ten  miles  from  here  is  Shoshone^  and  the 
next  station  is 

Nev.  (1,379  miles). 
This  is  the  most  convenient  point  to  the 
celebrated  Reese  River  mines^  and  is  a 
place  of  some  importance.  Coaches  con- 
nect here  with  Austin  (90  miles),  and 
Belmont,  175  miles  distant.  Austin  used 
to  be  a promising  mining  district,  and 
had  some  five  or  six  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. It  was  the  forerunner  of  White 
Pine  and  the  successor  of  “Washoe;” 
but  now  its  glory  has  faded. 

The  traveller,  in  passing  thn^ugh  Ne- 
vada, does  not  see  the  agr^icultural  or 
mineral  resources  of  the  ^ate,  as  the 
mines  of  AVhite  Pine,  Ei’^reka,  Reese 
River,  Mineral  Hill,  and  many  others  of 
less  importance,  lie  from  30  to  150  miles 
south  of  the  road ; and  Cope,  Bull  Run, 
Bruno,  etc.,  lie  north  of  the  road.  There 
are  many  valleys,  both  north  and  south, 
which  are  susceptible  of  cultivation,  and 
which  can  be  made  to  produce  grains 
and  vegetables  of  every  kind.  They  also 
afford  grazing  to  thousands  of  cattle  and 
sheep.  These  are  unseen  by  the  traveller 
by  rail ; the  chief  features  which  attract 
his  attention  are  the  ant-hills  and  sage- 
brush, which  give  to  the  country  a dreary 
and  forbidding  appearance  very  uninvit- 
ing to  the  tourist.  The  town  of  Eureka, 
80  miles  south  of  the  road,  in  November, 
1869,  numbered  13  inhabitants;  it  now 
has  about  2,500  prosperous  and  indus- 
trious miners.  One  company  alone — 
“The  Eureka  Consolidated” — has  ship- 
ped 3,000  tons  of  base  bullion.  The 
Buttercup  and  other  companies  are  doing 
a large  and  prosperous  business,  with  a 
bright  prospect  for  future  success.  Fur- 
ther information  concerning  the  mines  of 
ihis  region  is  given  in  the  chapter  on  Ne- 
vada. 

ISattlc  Nev.  (1,391 


miles),  takes  its  name  from  the  mountain 
on  the  right  of  the  track,  the  scene  of  a 
bloody  conflict  between  two  Indian  tribes. 
We  pass  between  the  Trinity  Mountains 
on  the  north,  and  the  West  Humboldt  on 
the  south,  through  a mining  district  of 
much  promise.  Near  here  Rock  Creek 
flows  into  the  Humboldt,  swelling  the 
waters  of  that  mysterious  river,  which 
we  now  lose  from  view  as  it  sneaks  off 
among  the  hills  and  dies  in  the  sands. 
Rich  veins  of  copper  have  been  discov- 
ered in  the  valley  of  Rock  Creek. 

Stoiae  Mouse,  Nev.  (1,410 
miles),  is  remarkable  for  nothing  but  its 
excellent  water,  and  its  old  stone  trading- 
house.  We  pass  Iron  Pointy  12  miles 
westward,  and  reach 

CffOlcoM-d-sa,  Nev.  (1,434  miles), 
the  outlet  to  the  Gold  River  mining  dis- 
trict. In  the  neighborhood  of  the  sta- 
tion are  more  hot  springs.  Tale  (1,445 
miles),  a place  of  no  importance,  is  passed, 
and  we  come  to 

W'iiasB.eiraaiicca,  Nev.  (1,451 
miles),  where  the  Truckee  Division  com- 
mences, and  where  the  railway  company 
has  large  workshops  and  a round-house. 
Daily  coaches  start  from  this  place  to 
Boise  City,  Paradise,  Camp  McDermott, 
Battle  Creek,  and  Silver  City.  Large  quan- 
tities of  freight  are  also  reshipped  here 
for  these  points  and  parts  of  Montana. 

Seven  small  and  unimportant  signal 
and  side  stations  are  passed,  when  we 
find  ourselves  encompassed  by  the  Great 
Nevada  Desert.  Granite  Point  (1,533 
miles),  and  Brownes  (1,541  miles),  are 
left  behind.  From  the.  last-named  sta- 
tion there  is  a fine  view  of  Humboldt 
Lake^  whose  waters  mingle  with  those 
of  the  Carson  about  10  miles  distant, 
and  together  disappear  in  the  sands. 
Passing  innumerable  hot-springs,  and 
leaving  in  the  rear  White  Plains^  Mirage^ 
and  Desert^  we  reach 
Wad.swor til,  Nev.  (1,587 
miles),  the  beginning  of  the  Sacramento 
Division.  The  railway  company  has  ex- 
tensive workshops  here,  which,  together 
with  being  the  reshipping  point  of  sup- 
plies for  Fort  Churchill  and  several  min- 
ing camps,  gives  it  the  little  importance 
of  which  it  can  boast.  We  are  now  begin- 
ning the  ascent  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  s. 
The  wearying  sight  of  plains  covered 
115 


Reno.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Tr.UCK.EB. 


with  alkali  and  eage-bi’ush  is  exchanged 
for  picturesque  views  of  mountain-slopes, 
adorned  with  branching  pine-trees,  and 
diversified  with  foaming  torrents.  This 
is  a gratifying  relief,  as  well  as  a fascinat- 
ing prospect.  An  anecdote  is  told  of  a 
lumber-man,  who  journeyed  from  his  na- 
tive State  of  Maine  to  seek  his  fortune  in 
the  State  of  California.  He  was  extremely 
taciturn  and  depressed  in  spirits  during 
the  journey  across  the  plains.  When 
these  mountains  came  in  sight,  and  his 
eyes  rested  upon  the  familiar  pine-trees, 
he  gazed  earnestly  for  a moment,  then, 
rising  to  his  feet,  exclaimed,  “ Thank 
God,  I smell  pitch  once  more ; ” and  then, 
sinking  back  into  his  seat,  he  wept  for 

joy. 

IteMo,  Nev.  (1,622  miles),  the  last 
halting-place  of  importance  during  the 
westward  journey  through  Nevada,  is 
named  after  General  Reno,  killed  at  South 
Mountain.  It  is  on  the  Truckee  River^ 
about  5 miles  from  the  base  of  the  Sierra, 
and  within  a few  miles  of  Virginia  City 
and  Gold  the  headquarters  of  the 
miners  who  work  the  numerous  silver 
and  gold  mines  in  this  district.  The 
Great  Comesiock  Lode  lies  between  these 
two  towns,  which  are  built  along  the 
mountain-side,  upon  the  crust  of  the  great 
silver-mine  of  America,  with  open  depths 
beneath  of  from  500  to  1,000  feet,  and 
more  miles  of  streets  below  than  above. 
Stages  run  daily  between  Reno  and  Vir- 
ginia City.  Reno  is  the  depot  of  the 
transshipment  of  freight  and  passengers 
for  Virginia,  Gold  Hill,  Carson,  and 
Washoe  Valley,  south,  and  Honey  Lake, 
Sierra  and  Long  Valleys,  north.  It  is, 
also,  the  northern  terminus  of  the  pro- 
posed Virginia  <Sc  Truckee  Railway,  There 
is  a fine  grain-growing  country  for  many 
miles  around  the  city. 

Taking  our  way  from  Reno  through 
deep  canons,  heavily  timbered  w ith  pine 
and  other  evergreens,  we  pass  Verdi 
(1,632  miles),  and  Boca  (1,643  miles). 
At  a short  distance  east  of  the  latter 
place  w^e  leave  Nevada  behind,  and  enter 
the  State  of  California.  The  ascent  now 
becomes  very  steep,  and  two  locomotives 
are  employed  to  draw  the  train.  At  short 
intervals  there  are  strong  wooden  sheds 
of  about  a thousand  feet  long,  erected  to 
guard  the  line  against  destruction  from 
116 


snow-slides.  These  sheds,  which  arc  very 
much  like  tunnels,  have  been  constructed 
at  great  expense,  and  in  a solid  manner. 
They  have  the  drawdjack  of  interrupting 
the  view  of  some  of  the  most  romantic 
scenery  on  the  line.  The  glimpses  one 
gets  are  just  enough  to  tantalize  and  not 
prolonged  enough  to  satisfy.  Eight  miles 
west  of  Boca  is  Truckee. 

'l.VtticIcee,  C«l.  (1,656  miles), 
which  has  well  been  called  the  Lake 
George  of  the  Pacific,  is  on  the  Truckee 
River.  It  is  substantially  built,  and  con- 
tains some  6,000  inhabitants.  There  are 
21  sav/-mills  in  the  neighborhood.  Ex- 
cursionists to  Donner  Lake  and  Lake 
Tahoe  leave  the  railroad  here. 

Stages  for  Donner  Lakey  two  and  a half 
miles  distant,  await  the  arrival  of  each 
train  to  transport  passengers  free  to  the 
Grant  House.  The  view  of  the  lake  from 
the  station  is  most  charming,  presenting 
a vast  sheet  of  water  picturesquely  situ- 
ated in  a gorge  of  the  Sierras.  The 
neighboij^ood  of  Donner  Lake  was  once 
the  theatre^of  a terrible  tragedy.  A 
number  of  ^migrants  travelling  to  Cali- 
fornia, in  1^6,  w^ere  overtaken  by  the 
snow  within  eight  miles  of  the  lake.  The 
party  was  composed  of  men,  women,  and 
children,  numbering  eighty  in  all.  They 
were  blocked  in  by  snow-drifts  and  were 
compelled  to  encamp  and  wait  for  the  re- 
turn of  spring.  Long  before  the  winter 
was  over  and  gone,  their  stock  of  pro- 
visions was  exhausted,  the  cattle  had  all 
been  killed  and  eaten,  and  even  the  hides 
had  been  devoured  by  the  half-famished 
party.  Then  came  the  bitter  struggle 
between  absolute  starvation  and  a resort 
to  cannibalism.  The  desire  to  live  tri- 
umphed over  every  other  consideration, 
and  the  bodies  of  the  dead  became  the 
sustenance  of  the  survivors.  While  this 
horrible  tragedy  was  being  enacted,  an 
event  happened  which  has  given  rise  to 
much  speculation  among  the  believers  in 
supernatural  occurrences.  A hunter, 
named  Blount,  living  in  California,  be- 
held in  a dream  the  situation  and  con- 
dition of  the  suffering  party.  The  im- 
pression made  on  him  was  so  intense  that 
he  mentioned  the  circumstance  to  other 
hunters  who  were  well  acquainted  with 
the  region  around  Donner  Lake.  They 
told  him  that  his  description  tallied  with 


Summit  SrATiON.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XYIII.  [Alabaster, 


the  reality.  This  intelligence  had  the 
effect  of  making  him  resolve  upon  doing 
what  he  could  to  rescue  the  snow-bound 
immigrants.  Being  joined  by  others  he 
w^ent  to  their  rescue,  and  had  the  satis- 
faction of  saving  nearly  thirty  out  of  the 
eighty.  The  survivors  were  frostbitten 
and  crippled ; but  their  physical  condi- 
tion ^vas  less  deplorable  than  their  mental 
state.  They  had  lived  upon  human  flesh 
till  they  had  acquired  a liking  for  it.  One 
of  them  was  detected  smeared  with  blood 
and  furtively  roasting  a woman’s  arm, 
after  the  supply  of  other  food  was  ample. 
Such  a story  furnishes  confirmation  of 
the  saying  that  truth  outstrips  fiction. 

Bonner  Lake  is  already  a favorite 
summer  resort  for  Californians,  and  a 
type  of  a series  of  grand  lakes  along  the 
Upper  Sierras.  Lake  Tahoe.,  an  Indian 
name,  signifying  “ big  water  ” (pro- 
nounced “ Tah-oo  ” by  the  Indians,  and 
“Tahoe”  by  Californians)  is  12  miles 
south  of  Truckee,  from  which  it  is 
reached  by  a splendid  road,  along  the 
river-bank,  under  the  shade  of  beautiful 
trees  or  across  rich  mendJivs.  Excur- 
sions may  be  made  around  +his  beautiful 
lake  in  carriage,  on  horseback,  or  by 
steamboat  {see,  also,  chapter  on  Califor- 
nia). A day  or  two  spent  at  Tahoe  and 
Bonner  Lakes  will  well  repay  the  tourist, 
who  will  find  never-ending  attractions  in 
the  many  beauties  of  this  mountain-range. 
The  noble  forests,  the  castellated  rocks, 
the  wedded  summer  and  winter,  the  dry 
pure  air,  the  mosses,  the  flow^ers,  and 
mountain-fruits,  will  all  combine  to  re- 
mind him  that  he  is,  indeed,  in  the  far- 
famed  Golden  State.  {See  Appendix.) 

From  Truckee  to  the  coast  is  one 
grand,  continuous  panorama,  although 
those  who  have  crossed  the  Sierras,  in 
the  stage,  either  by  the  Placerville  route 
or  by  the  Henness  Pass,  declare  that  the 
traveller  loses  half  the  fine  scenery  by 
travelling  by  rail.  It  is  certainly  very 
annoying  that  for  the  next  twenty  miles 
or  more  the  tunnels  and  snow-sheds  al- 
most shut  out  from  view  the  grand  moun- 
tain scenery  on  both  sides  of  the  road. 
A fifteen  miles  ascent  brings  us  to 

CsaS.  (1,6'71 

miles),  which,  although  the  highest  point 
on  this  line,  is  not  so  high  as  Sherman 
Station  on  the  Union  Pacific.  It  is  7,042 


feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  rep- 
resents not  the  altitude  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada range,  but  only  the  elevation  of 
this  mountain-pass.  Above  the  station 
the  peaks  of  the  mountains  tower  cloud- 
ward.  The  scene  is  one  of  indescribable 
grandeur,  and  on  reaching  this  elevation, 
one  is  bound  to  admit  that  the  railroad 
passage  over  these  mountains  is  the 
greatest  triumph  of  engineering  skill  and 
labor  on  the  whole  line.  The  track  going 
west  ascends  2,600  feet  in  60  miles,  and 
descends  6,000  feet  in  76  miles.  There 
is  over  a mile  of  tunnels  on  the  route, 
and  a million  dollars  w’as  spent  in  blast- 
ing-powder alone  for  the  construction. 

From  Summit  Station  to  Sacramento, 
the  distance  is  104  miles.  Between  these 
places  the  descent  from  a height  nearly 
half  as  great  as  that  of  Mont  Blanc  to  66 
feet  above  the  sea-level  has  to  be  made. 
The  line  is  carried  along  the  edge  of  de- 
clivities stretching  downward  for  two  or 
three  thousand  feet,  and  in  some  parts 
on  a narrow  ledge  which  has  been  ex- 
cavated from  the  mountain-side  by  men 
swung  from  the  upper  parts  in  baskets. 
It  is  thus  at  Cape  Horn,  a point  grand 
and  imposing  in  the  extreme.  Five  or 
six  miles  from  this  place,  at  an  altitude 
of  2,460  feet,  is 

Colfax,  Cal.  (1,722  miles),  a place 
of  considerable  prominence,  being  the 
point  of  departure  for  Grass  Valley  and 
Nevada.  The  altitude  of  the  station  is 
2,460  feet.  There  are  some  prosperous 
quartz-mines  in  the  neighborhood.  Baily 
coaches  connect  Colfax  with  Iowa  Hill, 
12  miles.  Grass  Valley,  13  miles,  Nevada, 
17  miles,  North  San  Juan,  29  miles,  Camp- 
tonville,  41  miles,  Forest-Hill  City,  60 
miles,  and  Bowneville,  75  miles  distant. 

Cal.  (1,740  miles),  the 
next  station,  a pretty  and  prosperous  set- 
tlement of  about  1,000  inhabitants,  is 
the  capital  of  Placer  County.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a region  containing  many 
rich  placer  and  quartz  mines.  The  cars 
connect  with  stages  here  for  Coloma, 
Placerville,  and  Georgetown. 

Alafeaster  Cave. — About  8 miles 
southeast  of  Auburn,  on  Kidd’s  Ravine, 
about  a mile  above  its  junction  with  the 
north  fork  of  American  River,  is  the  re- 
markable Alabaster  Cave,  which  is  thus 
described  by  its  first  explorer,  Mr.  G wynn, 


Sacramento.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Sacramento. 


in  the  Sacramento  Bee^  August  19,  1860. 
He  says  ; “ W onders  will  never  cease. 
On  yesterday,  we,  in  quarrying  rock,  made 
an  opening  to  the  most  beautiful  cave 
you  ever  beheld.  On  our  first  entrance, 
we  descended  about  15  feet,  gradually  to 
the  centre  of  the  room,  which  is  100  x 30 
feet.  At  the  north  end  there  is  a most 
magnificent  pulpit  in  the  Episcopal  Church 
style  that  man  ever  has  seen.  It  seems 
that  it  is,  and  should  be  called,  the  ‘ Holy 
of  Holies.’  It  is  completed  with  the  most 
beautiful  drapery  of  alabaster  sterites,  of 
all  colors,  varying  from  white  to  pink- 
red,  overhanging  the  beholder.  Imme- 
diately under  the  pulpit  there  is  a beau- 
tiful lake  of  water,  extending  to  an  un- 
known distance.  We  thought  this  all, 
but,  to  our  great  admiration,  on  arriving 
at  the  centre  of  the  first  room,  we  saw  an 
entrance  to  an  inner  chamber  still  more 
splendid,  200  x 100  feet,  with  most  beau- 
tiful alabaster  overhangings,  in  every  pos- 
sible shape  of  drapery.  Here  stands 
magnitude,  giving  the  instant  impression 
of  a power  above  man ; grandeur  that 
defies  decay  ; antiquity  that  tells  of  ages 
unnumbered  ; beauty,  which  the  touch  of 
time  makes  more  beautiful ; use  exhaust- 
less for  the  service  of  man ; strength  im- 
perishable as  the  globe,  the  monument 
of  eternity — the  truest  emblem  of  that 
everlasting  and  unchangeable,  irresistible 
Majesty,  by  whom,  and  for  whom,  all 
things  were  made.” 

Leaving  Auburn,  we  pass  Newcastle 
(1,745  miles),  1,754  miles),  where 

the  railroad  company  has  a machine-shop 
and  round-house,  substantially  built  of 
granite,  of  which  there  is  abundance  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  stop  at 

offiiaictioia.  Cal,  (1,758  miles),  an 
eating-station.  The  Central  Pacific  con- 
nects here  with  the  California  <Sc  Oregon 
Railway^  which  now  connects  with  Port- 
land on  the  Columbia  River  {see  chapter 
on  California).  Passengers  for  Northern 
California  and  Oregon  change  cars  here. 

Seventeen  miles  takes  us  through  An- 
telope and  Arcade,  unimportant  stations, 
bringing  us  into  the  low  valleys,  and  so 
wo  reach  Sacramento,  the  capital  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

Csil.  (1,775  miles), 
is  the  most  remarkable  city  in  the  State — 
but  is  less  remarkable  for  what  it  is  than 
118 


for  wdiat  it  has  survived.  More  than  once, 
fires  and  floods  have  destroyed  it,  and 
impoverished  its  inhabitants.  A great 
inundation  invaded  it  in  1851~’52,  and  it 
was  deluged  by  a break  in  the  American 
River  levee  in  1861-’62.  The  citizens, 
however,  have  never  lost  heart ; they 
rebuilt  their  ruined  dwellings  and  remade 
the  devastated  streets.  On  each  occasion, 
the  city  became  more  beautiful  and  more 
commodious.  At  present,  the  entire  city 
is  in  process  of  transformation.  All  pre- 
vious efforts  having  proved  futile  to  pro- 
tect the  locality  from  inundation  when 
the  rains  flooded  the  surrounding  plains, 
and  the  snow  melted  in  the  distant  moun- 
tains, a new  and  more  venturesome  course 
was  relied  upon,  and  has  since  been  pur- 
sued. The  expenditure  upon  embank- 
ments was  suspended,  and  the  elevation 
of  the  city  to  a height  ten  feet  above 
its  original  level  was  begun.  Some  of 
the  streets  have  been  entirely  raised  to 
the  projected  level,  and  others  are  in 
course  of  being  elevated  to  a correspond- 
ing height. 

Sacramen^l^  is  the  principal  railway 
centre  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a prosperous  agricultural  region, 
but  owes  its  importance  mainly  to  its  fine 
commercial  position,  being  situated  at  the 
head  of  tide  navigation  on  the  Sacramen- 
to River,  and  being  the  terminus  of  the 
Central  Pacific^  Sacramento  Valley^  CalR 
fornia  Oregon^  and  California  Pa- 
cific Railways.  The  works  of  the  Central 
Pacific  Railway,  the  most  important  west 
of  Omaha,  are  located  here.  Several 
hundred  men  are  employed  in  construct- 
ing cars,  in  putting  together  and  repairing 
locomotives.  Other  industries  are  car- 
ried on  successfully.  Three  flour-mills, 
capable  of  supplying  1,200  barrels  of  flour 
daily,  are  at  work  within  the  city  bounds. 
A woollen-mill  has  just  been  built,  and  a 
company  has  been  constituted  for  manu- 
facturing sugar  from  beet-root. 

In  size,  Sacramento  is  the  second  city 
in  California,  and  has  a population  of 
about  20,000. 

The  State-House  or  Capitol,  is  an  im- 
posing-looking building.  The  Yolo  Bridge^ 
800  feet  long  and  28  feet  wide,  spans  tile 
Sacramento  River  opposite  I Street.  Sac- 
ramento has  good  schools  and  churches ; 
and  shade-trees  and  shrubbery,  surround- 


Mokelumne.]  OMAHA  TO  SAH  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [Latiirop. 


ing  the  private  residences,  impart  an  at- 
tractive and  homelike  appearance. 

At  Sacramento,  where  the  river  of  that 
name  is  joined  by  the  American  River, 
the  united  streams  form  a broad  but 
shallow  sheet  of  water.  Not  far  from 
this  point  the  memorable  discoveries  of 
gold  were  made  in  1848.  It  is  not  true, 
as  is  supposed  by  many,  that  this  was  the 
first  time  the  existence  of  gold  in  Cali- 
fornia had  been  demonstrated.  Many 
years  prior  to  these  discoveries  the  In- 
dians were  in  the  habit  of  bringing  small 
parcels  of  gold-dust  from  the  interior  of 
the  coast,  and  selling  them  to  the  masters 
of  the  vessels  which  then  came  for  cargoes 
of  hides. 

As  already  stated,  the  western  terminus 
of  the  Central  Pacific  Railway  is  at  Sac- 
ramento. This  city  occupies  the  place 
at  one  end  of  the  line  which  Omaha  does 
at  the  other.  Just  as  several  routes  lead 
from  the  South  and  East  to  Omaha,  so 
are  there  more  routes  than  one  between 
Sacramento  and  San  Francisco.  For  the 
third  time  is  the  traveller  embarrassed 
by  variety.  He  may  select/ one  of  two 
railways  : a short-cut  railroad  to  Vallejo 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  with  a 20-mile 
ferriage  ; or  the  Pacific  Railway’s  proper 
prolongation  around  through  Stockton 
to  Oakland,  or  he  may  elect  to  take  the 
steamer.  His  ticket  gives  him  the  option 
of  a land  or  water  journey.  The  dif- 
ference in  time  is  trifling.  The  California 
Steam  Navigation  Company’s  steamer 
leaves  Sacramento  at  two  o’clock  in  the 
afternoon,  arriving  at  San  Francisco  at 
ten  o’clock  the  same  night.  The  journey 
from  Sacramento  to  San  Francisco  is  very 
pleasant,  but  without  special  interest, 
being  for  the  most  part  through  the 
highly-cultivated  valleys  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin. 

Brighton^  elevation  50  feet  ( 1,780  miles), 
the  first  station  on  the  Western  Pacific^  is 
passed,  and  Florin  (1,784  miles),  in  the 
neighborhood  of  which  are  numerous 
windmills.  We  leave  behind  us  Elk 
Grove  and  McConnelV unimportant  sta- 
tions, and  Galt  (1,802  miles),  from  which 
stages  leave  for  the  celebrated  Calaveras 
Big  Trees^  70  miles  distant  (described  in 
the  chapter  on  California). 

MoiielBoaiiae  Cal.  (1,810 

miles),  is  a thriving  settlement  of  about 


1,500  inhabitants.  It  was  one  of  the  ear- 
liest mining  towns  in  California.  Placer 
mining  is  still  carried  on  in  the  deep 
banks  and  flats  in  the  neighborhood.  A 
line  of  stages  connects  it  with  Stockton, 
via  San  Andreas. 

Just  before  coming  into  Stockton,  the 
next  station,  we  pass  on  the  right  the 
Slate  InsoMe  Asylum^  a large  and  costly 
building,  standing  in  its  own  grounds  of 
100  acres. 

Stoclctom,  Cal.  (1,823  miles),  is 
the  commercial  mart  of  San  Joaquin  Val- 
ley and  the  southern  mines,  and  is  the 
head  of  tide  navigation  on  San  Joaquin 
River.  It  occupies  a level  site,  and  is 
substantially  and  compactly  built,  with 
handsome,  wide  streets  and  public  build- 
ings which  speak  of  enterprise  and  taste. 
The  population  is  about  12,000.  The 
city  is  surrounded  by  the  most  extensive 
and  productive  wheat-growing  lands  in 
the  State.  During  1867,  864,233  bushels 
of  wheat  were  shipped  from  here  to  San 
Francisco,  and  the  entire  agricultural 
produce  exported  from  Stockton  during 
the  same  period  amounted  to  $2,234,119. 
An  artesian  well  near  the  centre  of  the 
city  supplies  360,000  gallons  of  water  per 
day,  which  rises  9 feet  above  the  grade 
of  the  city. 

Stockton  is  connected,  by  railway,  with 
Sacramento  on  the  north,  Oakland  on  the 
west,  San  Jose  on  the  southwest,  and  a 
railway  is  projected  to  connect  it  with 
Visalia  on  the  southeast,  and  steamers 
run  daily  to  San  Francisco.  From  this 
point  tourists  take  stage  for  the  Big  Trees 
of  Calaveras^  Yosemite  Valley^  Mariposa^ 
and  other  places  of  interest  in  the  eastern 
and  southeastern  portions  of  the  State. 
{See  chapter  on  California.)  A.  good  view 
of  Mount  Diablo  {see  chapter  on  Cali- 
fornia) is  had  at  Stockton. 

SLatlirop,  Cal.  (1,831  miles),  is 
the  junction  of  the  Visalia  Division  of  the 
Central  Pacific  Railway^  a new  route  to 
the  Yosemite  Valley  and  the  Big  Trees 
{see  chapter  on  California).  At  Wilson's 
Landing this  place,  on  February  1, 
1870,  the  Central  Railway  Company  com- 
menced laying  the  track  of  a branch 
road  up  the  St.  Joaquin  Valley.  At 
present  writing  (May,  1871)  the  road  is 
completed  to  Modesto,  20  miles  distant. 

Four  miles  beyond  Lathrop  we  cross 
119 


Ellis.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Oakland. 


the  St.  Joaquin  River,  on  a drav/-bridge, 
and  come  in  view  of  the  Contra  Costa 
Mountains.  A short  ride  nov^  brings  us 
to  Ba.ntd)s  (1,839  miles). 

Cal.  (1,844  miles),  the  next 
station,  lies  in  a beautiful  valley.  Four- 
teen miles  to  tlie  southeast  are  the  Cor- 
ral! Hollow  coal-mines,  connected  by  rail 
with  this  place.  The  grade  from  the  last 
station  has  increased  46  feet,  and  as  the 
ascent  is  becoming  more  and  more  diffi- 
cult, on  leaving  Ellis,  an  additional  en- 
gine is  attached  to  the  train.  At  MiB 
umy  (1,850  miles),  the  elevation  is  357 
feet.  The  route  is  now  through  bluffs  of 
heavy  sand  and  deep  cuttings.  We  ob- 
tain a view  ter  our  right  of  the  old  wagon- 
road,  and,  still  ascending,  wind  along  a 
tortuous  path  among  canons  and  bluffs, 
pass  through  the  tunnel  of  Livermore 
Fass^  and  come  out  to  find  ourselves  soon 
at  Altamoni  (1,858  miles).  Elevation 
740  feet.  Leaving  behind  us  Pleasanton 
(1,872  miles),  elevation  351  feet,  we  ar- 
rive at 

Niles,  Csal.  (1,884  miles).  On  our 
journey  from  the  Livermore  Pass,  we 
have  been  rapidly  descending,  and  at  this 
station  the  elevation  is  only  86  feet.  We 
are  now  in  the  beautiful  and  fertile  Ala- 
meda Valley.  Southward,  7 miles  by 
rail,  are  the  celebrated  Warm  Springs  of 
Alameda  County  (see  chapter  on  Cali- 
fornia). 

l^ecotsu,  Csal.  (1,886  miles),  is  a 
pretty  village  of  suburban  residences. 
On  a clear  day  the  city  of  San  Francisco 
(26  miles  distant)  can  be  seen  from  this 
station. 

After  passing  San  I^eandro  (1,899 
miles),  we  arrive  at  Simpson's  (1,903 
miles),  where  the  train  stops,  and,  to 
guard  against  accidents,  crosses  the  track 
of  the  San  Francisco  dc  Alameda  Railway. 
Four  miles  to  the  left  is  the  town  of  Ala- 
meda. 

Alameda  is  a pleasant  village  of  some 
1,500  inhabitants,  on  the  eastern  shore 
of  San  Francisco  Bay,  about  2 miles 
I’rom  Oakland,  and  12  miles  from  San 
Francisco.  It  is  the  western  terminus 
of  the  San  Franciseo  db  Alameda  Rail- 
way^ and  connects  with  San  Francisco  by 
ferry-boats  as  well  as  by  rail,  and  with 
the  Central  Railway^  at  Simpson’s  and 
Haywood’s,  10  miles  distant.  It  is  cele- 

120 


brated  for  its  beautiful  groves  of  oaks, 
and  many  fine  parks,  of  which  the  “En- 
cinal  ” is  the  largest  and  most  frequented. 

Two  miles  travel  from  Simpson’s 
brings  us  to  Brooklyn.  We  are  now 
fast  reaching  our  goal,  and,  crossing  a 
bridge,  pass  along  the  edge  of  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco,  and  soon  find  ourselves 
running  slowly  under  the  beautiful  oaks 
in  Oakland,  the  rural  suburb  and  school- 
house  of  San  Francisco. 

Cal.  (1,910  miles),  is 
the  principal  town  on  the  eastern  shore 
of  San  Francisco  Bay,  almost  directly 
opposite  “ The  Golden  City  ” itself.  The 
city  owes  its  name  to  its  magnificent 
groves  of  live  oaks,  in  which  it  was 
originally  built ; but  it  has  now  grown 
far  beyond  their  limits,  and  is  rapidly  ex- 
panding in  a northerly  direction.  These 
trees  are  not  merely  ornamental,  but 
really  subserve  a useful  purpose  for  parts 
of  the  town,  in  screening  them  from  the 
fierce  winds  that  in  the  summer  come 
through  the  gap  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and 
to  the  force  of  which  Oakland  is  espe- 
cially expos^^d.  The  population  is  about 
11,000.  Oakland  is  noted  for  its  many 
fine  schools  and  academies.  Among 
them  are  the  Uiiiversity  of  California^ 
temporarily  located  here  while  its  new 
“ earthquake-proof  ” building,  erecting 
in  Berkeley,  four  miles  distant,  at  the 
base  of  the  Contra  Costa  Mountains,  is 
being  finished  ; the  State  University 
School,  the  Oakland  Military  School,  the 
Female  College  of  the  Pacific,  the  Oak- 
land Female  Seminary,  and  the  convent 
of  “ Our  Lady  of  the  Sacred  Heart.” 

The  University  of  California^  now 
(1873)  in  its  fourth  year,  consists  of  va- 
rious colleges,  namely,  College  of  Arts, 
College  of  Letters,  and  professional  and 
other  colleges.  The  following  colleges 
have  already  been  organized : State  Col- 
lege of  Agriculture,  State  College  of  Me- 
chanic Arts,  State  College  of  Mines,  State 
College  of  Civil  Engineering,  State  Col- 
lege of  Letters,  and  State  College  of 
Medicine.  The  first  four  named  are  col- 
leges of  arts.  Each  college  confers  a 
proper  degree  at  the  end  of  the  course 
upon  such  students  as  are  found,  upon 
examination,  to  be  proficient  in  the  stud- 
ies of  the  course.  All  instruction  in  the 
undergraduate  departments  of  the  uni- 


Oakland.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XYIII.  [San  Francisco. 


vcrsity  is  free.  In  the  College  of  Medi- 
cine the  lecturers  receive  the  usual  fees. 
The  university  is  for  the  benefit  of  the 
people  of  the  State. 

The  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  Dumh^ 
and  Blirid^  is  an  imposing-looking  build- 
ing near  Berkeley,  a short  distance  from 
the  university.  It  is  constructed  of 
stone,  is  three  stories  high,  and  stands 
300  feet  above  the  bay,  of  which  it  com- 
mands a fine  view.  Potter’s  gardens  are 
an  attractive  feature  of  Oakland.  The 
city  is  well  lighted  with  gas,  has  broad, 
well-paved  streets,  and  has  a good  supply 
of  water  from  a creek  five  miles  distant. 
It  has  numerous  churches,  supports  three 
daily  newspapers,  and  has  several  horse- 
railroads.  The  drives  around  Oakland 
are  very  beautiful,  being  equal,  in  wild 
and  romantic  scenery,  to  those  of  San 
Francisco,  and  good  roads  penetrate  the 
surrounding  country  in  every  direction. 

Lines  of  ferry-boats,  even  larger  than 
those  of  the  Brooklyn  and  Jersey  City  fer- 
ries, run  across  the  bay,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing and  evening  they  are  equally  crowded 
with  passengers.  The  distance  across  is 
five  miles,  and,  there  being  extensive  flats 
in  front  of  Oakland,  the  railroad  wharf 
at  which  the  boat  lands  is  already  ex- 
tended out  nearly  a mile  from  the  shore 
to  deep  water.  The  company  is  endeav- 
oring to  get  the  Government  to  cede  to 
it  Goat  Island^  which  lies  precisely  half- 
way betvreen  San  Francisco  and  Oakland, 
on  which  it  desires  to  erect  a grand  de- 
pot, and  continue  its  wharf  to  the  island. 
There  being  deep  water  all  around  the 
island,  it  could  here  have  wharves  for  the 
accommodation  of  China  and  India  vessels, 
which,  it  is  anticipated,  will  soon  use 
this  highway  across  the  continent  to  trans- 
ship their  goods  to  the  East  as  well  as  to 
Europe.  The  citizens  of  San  Francisco 
are  opposed  to  the  cession,  and  the  scheme 
seems  to  be  defeated  for  the  present. 

Our  train  passes  through  the  city,  two 
miles  to  Oakland  Pointy  where  we  ride 
over  the  immense  pier  lately  built  by  the 
Central  Pacific  Railway  Company,  for 
more  than  two  miles  and  a quarter  over 
the  bay,  to  the  ferry-boat  which  conveys 
passengers  and  freight  to  the  city  of  San 
Francisco  at  the  foot  of  Second  Street, 
from  which  we  are  now  three  miles  dis- 
tant. This  wonderful  pier,  or  rather 


wharf,  is  on  the  east  side  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. It  is  11,000  feet  long,  and  runs 
out  to  a depth  of  24  feet  at  low  tide,  and 
of  31  feet  at  high  tide,  having  twelve 
railroad  tracks  upon  its  last  1,000  feet, 
a wide  carriage-way,  a passenger  depot 
and  railroad-offices,  warehouses,  and  out- 
side storage  for  40,000  tons  of  grain  or 
other  merchandise,  and  three  large  docks, 
one  of  which  affords  ample  space  for  five 
of  the  largest  steamers  or  clippers  afloat. 
The  piles  used,  where  the  water  deepens, 
are  65  feet  long,  and  are  42  to  54  inches 
in  circumference.  The  main  wharf  is 
800  feet  wide  at  the  extreme  or  western 
end,  and  on  it  are  pens  for  500  cattle, 
two  immense  warehouses  (one  50  x 500, 
another  50x600),  with  the  passenger 
depot,  70  X 305  in  size. 

In  passing  over  the  wharf,  we  obtain  a 
good  view  of  the  bay.  To  the  right,  in 
the  distance,  we  see  the  mountains  of 
Marin  County,  the  loftiest  of  which  is 
Mount  Tamalpads^  2,000  feet  high.  i^See 
chapter  on  California.) 

SAN  PRANCISCO. 

This  large  and  flourishing  city,  the 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific  coast,  is  situated 
on  the  western  side  of  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  at  the  north  end  of  a peninsula 
formed  by  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west, 
and  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  on  the  east, 
in  latitude  37°  48'  N. 

The  early  history  of  San  Francisco  is 
interesting  on  account  of  the  rapid  growth 
of  the  place.  The  first  house  was  built 
in  1835,  when  the  village  was  called  Yer- 
ha  Buena^  which  in  Spanish  signifies  good 
herb^  so  named  from  a medicinal  plant 
growing  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity. 
In  1847  this  was  changed  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  in  1848,  the  year  that  gold  was 
first  discovered  in  Califbrnia  by  the  white 
settlers,  the  population  had  grown  to 
1,000.  The  influx  from  the  East  then 
commenced,  and  in  December,  1850,  the 
population  was  about  25,000.  From  this 
small  beginning  it  has  steadily  increased, 
with  some  temporary  drawbacks,  until 
in  1860  the  population  was  56,802,  and 
in  1870  it  reached  149,482,  including 
about  20,000  Chinese  and  about  1,500 
negroes,  and  exclusive  of  a floating  popu- 
lation of  about  8,000.  As  an  illustration 
121 


»San  Francisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco. 


of  the  extent  of  the  business  of  the  city, 
it  may  be  stated  that  the  manufacturing 
establishments  now  in  operation  in  San 
Francisco  number  upward  of  800,  em- 
ploying a capital  of  $17,000,000,  con- 
suming annually  material  of  the  value  of 
$23,000,000,  and  producing  goods  worth 
$45,000,000.  In  three  months  of  1871, 
San  Francisco  imported  10,700,304  lbs. 
of  rice,  15,936,865  pounds  of  sugar, 
2,766,196  pounds  of  coffee,  and  883,742 
of  tea  direct  from  the  Pacific.  In  1870 
it  exported  15,000,000  pounds  of  wool. 

Other  things,”  says  a traveller,*  “than 
the  increase  of  the  population  and  the 
enlargement  of  the  city  have  made  the 
growth  of  San  Francisco  an  event  without 
a parallel,  either  in  America  or  in  any 
other  quarter  of  the  habitable  globe.  Its 
name  had  become  synonymous  for  all  that 
was  most  shameless  in  profligacy,  for  all 
that  was  basest  in  depravity,  for  all  that 
was  wanton  and  brutal  in  ruffianism.  In 
the  open  day  men  were  murdered  with 
impunity.  At  night  the  property  of  the 
citizens  was  at  the  mercy  of  the  lawless. 
The  scum  of  Polynesia,  desperadoes  from 
Australia,  bullies  and  blackguards  from 
the  wild  State  of  Missouri,  Spanish  cut- 
throats from  the  cities  of  the  Pacific 
coast,  dissolute  women  and  reckless  ad- 
venturers from  the  slums  of  Europe,  con- 
gregated in  San  Francisco,  and  there  plied 
their  several  avocations  and  followed  their 
devious  courses  in  defiance  of  the  prohi- 
bitions of  a law  which  had  lost  its  terrors 
for  them,  and  in  disregard  of  any  other 
check  save  the  revolver  or  the  bowie- 
knife.  At  that  time,  San  Francisco  was 
one-half  a brothel,  and  one-half  a gaming- 
hell.  There  came  a crisis  in  the  annals 
of  the  city  when  the  action  of  the  law 
was  forcibly  impeded,  in  order  that  the 
reign  of  law  might  be  restored.  A Vigi- 
lance Committee  discharged  the  fourfold 
functions  of  police,  judge,  jury,  and  execu- 
tioner. A short  shrift  and  lofty  gallows  was 
the  fate  of  the  criminal  whom  they  took  in 
the  act  of  committing  robbery  or  murder. 
The  remedy  was  strong  and  dangerous. 
But  the  symptoms  were  so  threatening  as 
to  inspire  fear  lest  what  men  call  civiliza- 
tion should  cease  to  exist,  and  no  peril 
incurred  in  applying  the  remedy  was 


♦ W.  F.  Kao,  in  “Westward  by  Rail,” 
122 


Comparable  to  the  risk  of  allowing  tlio 
disease  to  spread  and  become  intensified. 
Never,  perhaps,  in  the  history  of  the 
world,  did  the  result  more  completely  jus- 
tify the  means  employed  than  in  the  case 
of  San  Francisco.  The  Vigilance  Com- 
mittee discharged  its  duties  with  unre- 
lenting severity  so  long  as  professional 
thieves  and  systematic  murderers  were 
at  large  triumphing  in  their  crimes.  As 
soon,  however,  as  order  was  restored,  the 
Vigilance  Committee  decreed  its  own  dis- 
solution, and  the  dispensers  of  summary 
justice  became  conspicuous  for  their 
obedience  to  the  administrators  of  the 
law.  From  being  a by-word  for  its  law- 
lessness and  licentiousness,  the  city  of 
San  Francisco  has  become,  in  little  more 
than  ten  years,  as  moral  as  Philadelphia, 
and  far  more  orderly  than  New  York.” 

Market  Street  is  the  starting-point  for 
the  numbering  of  buildings.on  the  streets 
running  therefrom  in  a northerly  and 
southerly  direction,  and  the  water  front 
for  those  in  a westerly  direction.  One 
hundred  numbers  are  allowed  for  each 
block  between  principal  streets  : for  ex- 
ample, if  one  wishes  to  go  to  624  Mont- 
gomery Street,  he  will  find  it  on  the  east 
side  of  the  block  extending  from  Clay 
Street  to  Washington  Street,  which  is  the 
seventh  from  Market  Street — Commercial 
and  Merchant  Streets  being  private 
streets.  Again  : 825  Clay  Street  is  above 
the  eighth  block  from  the  water  front, 
which  is  the  one  extending  from  Dupont 
Street  to  Stockton  Street. 

Memlgomery  Street^  the  leading  thorough- 
fare, is  a handsome  street,  and  is  usually 
thronged  with  pedestrians.  At  its  northern 
end  it  extends  to  the  top  of  a steep  hill. 
The  latter  portion  is  so  precipitous  that 
carriages  cannot  ascend  it.  A flight  of 
steps  enables  the  foot-passenger  to  mount 
with  comparative  ease.  From  the  top  a 
commanding  view  is  had  of  the  bay,  the 
opposite  coast,  and  the  business  quarter 
of  the  city.  On  California  Street  the 
principal  banks,  and  brokers’  and  in- 
surance offices,  are  located. 

The  view  from  Telegraph  Hilly  290  feet 
high,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
city,  is  unsurpassed.  It  embraces  at 
once  the  city,  stretching  along  the  semi- 
amphitheatre  of  hills,  and  overflowing 
the  depressions  toward  the  Presidio  on 


B.  Francisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XYIII.  [S.  Francisco. 


the  west  and  the  Ulission  on  the  wSouth, 
both  arms  of  and  the  entrance  to  the  bay, 
including  the  island  of  Alcatraz,  which  is 
fortified  ; Angel  Island,  over  700  feet  in 
height ; and  Yerha  Buena  (Goat  Island), 
the  mountains  of  Marin  County  on  the 
north,  with  the  Peak  of  Tamalpais^ 
2,600  feet  high  ; and  the  Contra  Costa 
Range  on  the  east,  with  Monte  Diablo 
rising  in  the  background  to  a height  of 
3,700  feet.  The  summits  of  Russian  and 
Rincon  Hills,  and  the  Shot  Tower,  200 
feet  high,  on  the  corner  of  Shelby  and 
First  Streets,  also  afford  fine  views. 

The  great  sea-wall  of  San  Francisco, 
now  building,  will  extend  along  the  entire 
water-front  of  the  city,  from  Chestnut 
Street  on  the  north  to  Harrison  Street  on 
the  south,  a distance  of  8,340  feet.  It  is 
estimated  that  it  will  cost  $2,500,000. 
The  wall  is  100  feet  wide  at  the  bot- 
tom, the  foundation  being  laid  25  feet 
below  low-water  mark.  The  top,  which 
is  65  feet  wide,  is  on  the  level  of  the 
city  grade,  and  is  laid  with  three-inch 
plank,  a large  portion  of  which  has  been 
preserved  by  a process  which^ renders  it 
impervious  to  the  effects  of  the  weather. 
All  the  streets  along  the  city  front  have 
a uniform  width  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet. 

WATER-WOliKS. 

The  Spring  Valley  Water  Company 
supplies  the  city  with  water  at  the  pres- 
ent time.  The  water  is  brought  from 
Lobos  Creek,  Pillarcitos  Creek,  and  from 
Lake  Honda.  Lobos  Creek  is  a stream  of 
pure  fresh  water  emptying  into  the  Bay 
near  Point  Lobos.  The  stream  is  three 
and  a half  miles  distant  from  the  centre 
of  the  city  in  a straight  line.  The  water 
is  elevated  into  the  two  distributing  res- 
ervoirs, built  on  the  hills  300  feet  above 
the  city  level.  The  capacity  of  these 
reservoirs  is  11,000,000  gallons  per  day. 

Pillarcitos  Creek  is  situated  east  of  the 
Coast  Range  of  Mountp,ins  about  fifteen 
miles  southerly  from  San  Francisco.  A 
large  dam  has  been  constructed  in  the 
Pillarcitos  Yalley  92  feet  high,  and  600 
feet  long,  containing  1,000,000,000  gal- 
lons, and  is  drawn  from  as  required  by 
the  city  reservoirs. 

Lake  Honda  has  a capacity  of  35,000,- 
VOO  gallons,  and  supplies  the  city  by 


means  of  three  miles  of  cast-iron  pipes  to 
the  reservoir  on  Market  Street,  corner  of 
Buchanan,  which  contains  two  million 
gallons. 

Several  new  organizations  have  been 
recently  formed  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
viding for  a greater  supply  of  water  as 
the  rapidly-increasing  population  of  San 
Francisco  may  require,  including  a pro- 
ject to  bring  water  from  Lake  Tahoe, 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant  from 
San  Francisco. 

HOTELS,  EESTATJEANTS,  AND  CLUBS. 

Hotels. — San  Francisco  is  well  sup- 
plied with  first-class  hotels,  equal  if  not 
superior  to  those  of  any  other  city  of 
like  population,  and  in  the  elegance, 
comfort,  and  extent  of  their  accommoda- 
tions, unsurpassed  by  those  of  any  city  in 
the  Union. 

The  first-class  hotels  are  : the  Grand^ 
Occidental^  and  Lick  House^  on  Mont- 
gomery, and  the  Cosmopolitan  on  Bush 
Street.  Three  dollars  per  day  is  the 
charge  at  these  places.  At  the  Russ  House^ 
on  Montgomery,  American  Exchange^  on 
Sansome,  and  Brooklyn  Hotels  on  Bush, 
the  traveller  will  find  excellent  accom- 
modations for  from  $1.75  to  $2.50  per 
day. 

The  Grand  Hotels  Johnson  & Co.,  pro- 
prietors, situated  on  Market  Street,  corner 
of  New  Montgomery,  is  built  with  a view 
to  elegance  and  comfort.  It  has  a front 
of  205  feet  on  Market  Street,  and  335 
feet  on  New  Montgomery  Street.  The 
style  of  decoration  is  elaborately  ornate. 
The  building  is  three  stories  in  height, 
and  there  is  a fourth  story  in  the  Man- 
sard roof.  The  rooms  are  arranged  in 
suites. 

The  Occidental  Hotel^  on  the  east  side 
of  Montgomery  Street,  extending  from 
Bush  to  Sutter  Street,  is  well  provided 
with  all  the  accommodations  of  a first- 
class  house. 

The  Lick  House^  on  Montgomery  Street, 
between  Post  and  Sutter  Streets,  John 
M.  Lawler  & Co.,  is  a favorite  hotel. 

The  Cosmopjolitan  Hotels  Tubbs  & Pat- 
ten, proprietors,  location  southeast  corner 
of  Bush  and  Sansome  Streets.  A great 
many  families  reside  here  permanently, 
preferring  it  to  others,  it  being  rather 
more  retired  than  the  Montgomery  Street 
123 


San  Francisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco. 


hotels.  It  is  a large  house,  and  well 
kept. 

TKq  Jlass  House,  Pearson  & Seymour, 
on  the  west  side  of  Montgomery  Street, 
from  Pine  to  Bush  Streets,  is  an  old- 
established  hotel,  and  is  preferred  by 
many  to  the  more  modern  structures  of 
greater  elegance. 

The  American  Exchange,  T.  Sargent, 
proprietor,  319  Sansome  Street. 

The  Brooklyn  Hotel,  Kelly  & Wood, 
210  Bush  Street,  near  Sacramento  Street. 

The  International  Hotel,  532  Jackson 
Street,  near  Montgomery,  is  one  of  the 
old  hotels,  and  is  well  known  to  the  early 
visitors  of  San  Francisco. 

The  Continerdal  Hotel,  Pacific  Street, 
between  Montgomery  and  Kearney  Sts., 
Herman  Droste,  proprietor,  gives  special 
attention  to  the  accommodation  of  fami- 
lies. The  “ table  ” is  good,  and  the 
charges  moderate. 

There  are  many  cheap  lodging-houses 
where  comfortable  rooms  may  be  had  for 
from  25  to  50  cents  per  night ; the  most 
frequented  of  these  being  the  What  Cheer, 
on  Sacramento  Street,  formerly  the  best 
hotel  in  the  city. 

Besides  the  hotels  enumerated,  more 
than  a hundred  could  be  mentioned  of 
more  or  less  note  in  different  parts  of  the 
city,  each  having  its  crowd  of  customers, 
and  also  many  of  particular  nationalities, 
such  as  French,  German,  Italian,  Swiss, 
etc. 

Restaurants. — In  San  Francisco,  res- 
taurants are  a peculiar  feature  of  the 
place,  which  might  justly  be  called  the 
City  of  Restaurants.  Probably  no  city 
in  the  world,  certainly  none  in  the  United 
States,  can  compare  with  San  Francisco 
in  this  respect.  Restaurants,  chop-houses, 
rotisseries,  abound  in  every  part.  A great 
many  are  first  class,  and  so  much  on  a 
par,  that  it  is  difficult  for  us  to  make  a 
selection.  In  former  times  the  greater 
part  of  the  population  took  their  meals 
at  these  places,  and  large  numbers,  fami- 
lies as  well  as  individuals,  still  continue 
the  practice.  Many  have  never  lived  in 
any  other  way.  Chop-houses  and  rotis- 
series differ  somewhat  from  restaurants. 
In  the  fonner  the  eooking-furnaces  are 
arranged  on  one  side  of  the  room,  and  a 
person  eoming  in  can  make  a selection  of 
the  raw  food,  and  have  it  cooked  right 


before  his  eyes.  This  mode  suits  many  who 
are  fastidious  and  do  not  mind  wliether 
a dinner  costs  a trifle  more  or  less. 

The  inferior  restaurants  in  the  business 
parts  of  the  city  arc  frequented  mostly 
by  men,  but  families,  and  ladies  with 
gentlemen,  can  with  propriety  visit  the 
first  and  second  class  restaurants ; the 
same  decorum  being  observed  by  those 
who  frequent  them  as  obtains  in  the 
dining-room  of  a first-class  hotel.  The 
restaurants  which  have  rooms  appro- 
priated exclusively  for  ladies  are  generally 
second  or  third  rate. 

Besides  these,  there  are  also  table 
d’hotes,  kept  mostly  by  the  French, 
where,  by  paying  50  cents,  75  cents,  or  a 
dollar,  one  can  sit  at  the  table  and  call 
for  any  thiiig  he  likes,  provided  it  is  on 
the  bill  of  fare,  including  wine,  coffee,  and 
tea. 

Martin's  Restaurant,  on  Commercial 
Street,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearney, 
is  noted  for  providing  excellent  suppers 
for  private  parties  ; rooms  being  espe- 
cially set  apart  for  that  purpose. 

There  Ure  also  numerous  establish- 
ments of  an  extensive  character  where 
sleeping  accommodations  are  furnished 
by  the  day  or  week  at  a moderate  charge. 
Restaurants  may  or  may  not  be  con- 
nected with  these  lodging-houses ; but 
they  are  entirely  distinct  in  their  manage- 
ment, and  often  under  different  proprie- 
tors. 

Clubs. — The  Union  Club,  incorporated 
in  1865;  rooms  403  Montgomery  Street, 
corner  of  California.  This  club,  formed 
and  carried  on  for  the  use,  profit,  and 
entertainment  of  its  members,  is  complete 
in  all  that  appertains  to  a well-conducted 
club-house. 

Ban  Francisco  Olympic  Club,  35  Sutter 
Street,  is  a popular  and  flourishing  asso- 
ciation, numbering  over  500  members.  It 
has  regularly-organized  classes  in  gym- 
nastics, boxing,  and  fencing.  The  new 
rooms  of  the  society  are  extensive  and 
complete,  and  admirably  adapted  to  the 
objects  in  view. 

San  Francisco  Verein,  incorporated  in 
1853  ; rooms  428  Pine  Street.  The  read- 
ing-room is  supplied  with  the  full  number 
of  newspapers  and  all  the  leading  maga- 
zines and  periodicals.  The  library  num- 
bers over  5,000  volumes. 


S.  Francisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Francisco. 


Pacific  Turner  Bund^  organized  in 
1859  ; rooms  at  Turnverein  Hall, 
O’Farrell  Street,  between  Mason  and  Tay- 
lor. This  is  an  organization  of  the  dif- 
ferent Turnvereins  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Its  objects  are  the  cultivation  of  gym- 
nastic exercises  generally,  and  to  facili- 
tate as  much  as  possible  the  establish- 
ment of  new  Turnvereins. 

Society  of  California  Pioneers^  Pioneer 
Hall,  Montgomery  Street,  near  Jackson, 
organized  in  1850.  This  society  numbers 
about  1,400  members.  Its  objects  are 
to  collect  and  preserve  information  con- 
nected with  the  early  settlement  of  the 
country,  and  to  perpetuate  the  memory 
of  the  early  settlers.  The  society  pos- 
sesses an  excellent  library  and  reading- 
room,  and  has  a collection  of  many  in- 
teresting relics  of  early  times. 

The  Caledonian  Clvh^  organized  in  1866, 
numbers  over  400  members,  who  meet 
once  a month  at  the  hall,  No.  234  Sutter 
Street,  near  Kearney.  Its  objects  arc 
social  intercourse,  and  the  perpetuation 
of  the  national  sports  of  Scotland.  An 
annual  exhibition  is  given,  and  prizes 
awarded  to  those  who  excel  in  the  Scot- 
tish athletic  games.  These  exhibitions 
are  well  attended,  and  always  interesting. 

There  are  a great  many  other  clubs  and 
associations  in  San  Francisco,  each  hav- 
ing some  particular  object  in  view,  such 
as  yachting,  rowing,  manly  exercises,  or 
social  improvement,  and  all  are  more  or 
less  flourishing. 

CONYETANCES. 

The  Street  Railroads  now  intersect  the 
city  in  every  direction.  The  cars  of  the 
Omnibus  Railway  Company  run  from 
north  to  south  through  different  streets, 
as  do  also  those  of  the  North  Beaeh  <Sc 
Mission  Railway  Company^  with  lines  ex- 
tending from  the  business  centre  to  the 
southwest  quarter  of  the  city,  the  old 
Spanish  settlement  of  the  Mission  Dolo- 
res {see  page  134).  The  Central  RaiU 
way  Company^  and  the  Front  Street  & 
Ocean  Company^  run  from  the  city  front 
through  the  central  portion  of  the  city, 
with  branches  to  the  extreme  northern, 
western,  and  southern  suburbs.  The 
Market  Street  Company^  the  pioneer  rail- 
road, intersects  the  city  from  northeast 
to  southwest,  with  a branch  to  the  Pavil- 


ion at  Hay’s  Valley.  The  City  Railway^ 
a new  company,  runs  from  New  Mont- 
gomery and  Market  Street  to  Twenty- 
sixth  street.  The  Potrero  & Bay -View 
Railway  connects  with  the  North  Beach 
and  Mission  on  Fourth  Street,  crosses 
Mission  Bay,  running  over  the  Long 
Bridge  of  Islais  Creek  by  South  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Bay  View.  A branch  of  the 
City  Front  & Ocean  Railway  runs  from 
Polk  Street  to  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery  (Lone 
Mountain)  {see  page  131),  and  another 
branch  from  Broadway  to  Harbor  View, 
near  the  Presidio,  {see  page  135),  making 
this  road  with  its  branches  the  longest 
in  the  city.  The  aggregate  length  of 
these  railroads  is  about  50  miles.  The 
cars  are  run  with  especial  reference  to 
the  convenience  of  travellers.  Passen- 
gers can  obtain  transfer  tickets  to  reach 
the  most  distant  parts  of  the  city  with- 
out extra  charge.  In  the  evening,  one 
car  of  each  of  the  principal  lines,  called 
the  theatre  car,  always  waits  until  the 
theatres  are  out. 

FEEEIES. 

San  Francisco  and  Oakland^  foot  of 
Pacific  Street. — First  boat  leaves  at  6.50 
A.  M.  Last  boat  at  11.30  p.  m. 

San  Francisco  and  San  Antonio^  foot 
of  Pacific  Street  (Creek  route). — First 
boat  leaves  at  9.30  a.  m.  Last  boat,  3.80 

p.  M. 

San  Francisco  and  Alameda^  from  Da- 
vis Street,  near  Broadway. — ^First  boat, 
7.20  a.  m.  Last  boat,  7 p.  m. 

Contra  Costay  foot  of  Vallejo  Street. — 
Boats  leave  morning  and  afternoon. 

San  Quentiiiy  foot  of  Broadway. — First 
boat  leaves  at  9.30  a.  m.  Last  boat,  6.30 

p.  M. 

Sanceliio  Ferryy  Meigs's  Wharf. — First 
boat  leaves  at  10  a.  m.  Last  boat,  6 p.  m. 

PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT. 

The  principal  places  of  amusement  i\re 
found  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
Montgomery  and  Kearney  Streets,  and 
may  be  reached  by  either  of  the  street  rail- 
roads that  run  through  the  central  por- 
tion of  the  city.  The  performances  are 
generally  concluded  in  time  for  the  audi- 
ence to  meet  the  cars  before  11  o’clock, 

P.  M. 

The  California  TheatrCy  Barrett  and 
125 


San  Francisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco. 


A 

McCullough,  managers,  Bush  Street,  just 
above  Kearney,  is  one  of  the  most  elegant 
places  of  amusement  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
It  is  devoted  to  the  representation  of 
tragedy  and  the  legitimate  drama. 

The  Metropolitan  Theatre^  William  II. 
Lyon,  proprietor.  Montgomery  Street, 
between  Washington  and  Jackson  Streets. 
This  is  one  of  the  oldest  theatres  on  the 
coast.  It  has  a large  and  commodious 
stage,  and  one  of  the  finest  auditoriums 
in  the  United  States. 

Maguire-s  Opera-House^  Thomas  Ma- 
guire, manager,  Washington  Sfreet,  near 
Montgomery.  The  performances  are  most- 
ly opera  bouffe,  and  burlesques. 

Alhambra  Theatre^  W.  H.  Smith,  man- 
ager, Bush  Street,  between  Montgomery 
and  Kearney  Streets.  Devoted  to  bur- 
lesque, negro  minstrelsy,  and  ballet. 

Bella  Union  Theatre^  Samuel  Tetlow, 
manager,  Kearney  Street,  near  W ashing- 
ton. 

Chinese  Theatres^  east  side  Dupont 
Street,  between  Clay  and  Washington 
Streets  ; and  north  side  Jackson  Street, 
between  Kearney  and  Dupont.  At  these 
theatres  the  performance  is  carried  on 
amid  the  clashing  of  cymbals,  the  beat- 
ing of  drums,  the  blowing  of  trumpets, 
and  other  kinds  of  noise.  \Bee  page  131.) 

City  Gardens^  Folsom  Street,  between 
Twelfth  and  Thirteenth  Streets. 

Woodward^ s Gardens^  R.  B.  Wood- 
ward, proprietor,  north  side  of  Mission 
Street,  between  Thirteenth  and  Four- 
teenth Streets.  This  is  a pleasant,  pop- 
ular place  of  resort,  being  the  “Bar- 
num’s  ” of  the  Pacific  coast.  Among  its 
many  attractions  are  a Museum  of  Cu- 
riosities, an  Art  Gallery,  and  a Menagerie. 
The  grounds  are  handsomely  laid  out. 

LIBRARIES. 

San  Francisco  is  well  supplied  with  li- 
braries, and  in  this  respect  may  challenge 
competition  with  any  city  of  its  age  in 
any  part  of  the  world.  Statistics  of 
these  institutions  show,  beyond  question, 
that  the  San  Franciscans  are  a reading 
people. 

Mercantile  Library  Association  building 
is  a large  and  beautiful  edifice  on  Bush 
Street,  between  Montgomery  and  Sansome 
Streets.  The  rooms  are  spacious,  well 
arranged,  and  elegantly  furnished.  The 
126 


number  of  volumes  is  over  80,000,  all 
judiciously  selected,  and  new  books  arc 
constantly  being  added.  The  reading- 
room  is  supplied  with  all  the  leading 
newspapers  and  periodicals,  local,  do- 
mestic, and  foreign. 

Odd-B\llows^  Library  Anociaiion^  Odd- 
Fellows’  Hall,  325  and  327  Montgomery 
Street.  This  library  was  organized  in 

1854,  and  contains  now  over  18,000  vol- 
umes. In  the  reading-room  may  be  found 
the  leading  journals  of  the  day. 

Mechanic^  Institute  Library  occupies 
a large,  substantial  building  on  Post 
Street,  between  Montgomery  and  Kearney 
Streets.  The  library  was  organized  in 

1855.  It  contains  now  over  18,000  vol- 
umes, very  large  proportion  of  which  are 
works  of  a scientific  character.  The  read- 
ing-room is  supplied  with  a well-selected 
assortment  of  magazines  and  newspapers 
from  dilFerent  parts  of  the  world. 

The  San  Francisco  Law  Library  rooms, 
in  Montgomery  Block,  are  commodious, 
well  arranged,  and  provided  with  the 
legal  standard  publications  of  the  day. 
The  library' contains  over  5,000  volumes, 
comprising  those  of  every  department  of 
legal  science,  together  with  complete  re- 
ports of  American,  English,  and  Scotch 
decisions. 

CHURCHES. 

There  are  over  seventy  places  of  wor- 
ship in  the  city,  and  they  are  generally 
well  attended  on  Sunday ; but  in  a city 
so  cosmopolitan  as  San  Francisco  the 
different  classes  of  society  spend  Sunday 
in  very  different  ways.  With  some  it  is 
a favorite  day  for  pleasure-excursions. 
The  German  Turnvereins  and  military 
companies  frequently  make  excursions  to 
the  suburbs  or  across  the  bay  on  Sunday, 
but  in  such  cases  they  generally  leave 
early  in  the  morning,  and  the  city  proper 
is  remarkably  quiet  through  the  day. 

The  churches  of  San  Francisco  are 
built  more  with  reference  to  size  and  con- 
venience than  to  architectural  beauty. 
There  are  some  few  handsome  buildings, 
and  more  that  are  fitted  up  with  great 
elegance  inside,  but  not  very  many  that 
would  attract  particular  notice  from  their 
exterior  appearance.  We  shall  notice 
the  most  prominent  of  each  denomimi- 
tion': 


R Francisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Francisco 


EPISCOPAL. 

Grace  Churchy  corner  California  and 
Stockton  Streets.  Rev.  James  S.  Bush, 
rector.  This  is  sometimes  called  Grace 
Cathedral,  the  bishop  of  the  diocese  hav- 
ing been  rector  at  different  times.  It 
is  a very  handsome  stone  building,  with 
stained-glass  windows. 

Trinity  Churchy  corner  of  Post  and 
Powell  Streets,  is  a large  Gothic  frame 
building,  with  tower  and  spire.  The 
interior  is  handsomely  finished.  Rev. 
Theodore  H.  Lyman,  D.  D.,  rector;  Rev. 
Charles  H.  Turner,  assistant  minister. 

Church  of  the  Advent^  Howard  Street, 
between  Second  and  Third,  opposite  New 
Montgomery  Street.  Rev.  H.  I).  Lathrop, 
rector. 

ROMAN  CATHOLIC. 

St.  Marfs  Cathedral^  northeast  corner 
California  and  Dupont  Streets.  The  Most 
Rev.  Joseph  S.  Aleraany,  archbishop ; 
the  Very  Rev.  James  Croke,  vice-gen- 
oral  ; the  Rev.  J.  Prendergast,  pastor ; 
and  the  Rev.  T,  O’Callahan,  assistant. 
This  is  a noble  building,  75  feet  wide, 
fronting  on  California  Street,  and  130 
deep  on  Dupont  Street.  Until  St.  Patrick’s 
new  church  was  built,  it  was  the  largest 
in  the  State.  The  tower  at  present  is 
135  feet  high,  and  when  completed  with 
the  proposed  spire  will  be  200  feet  high. 
The  style  of  architecture  is  Gothic,  which 
has  been  fully  carried  out  in  all  the  de- 
tails. The  main  building  is  to  be  enlarged 
by  adding  30  feet  to  its  length. 

St.  Patrick^  Church.,  north  side  of  Mis- 
sion Street,  between  Third  and  Fourth, 
Rev.  Peter  J.  Grey,  pastor,  is  a large 
and  elegant  structure,  not  yet  quite  com- 
pleted. Services  are  temporarily  held 
in  the  basement.  This  is  designed  to  be 
the  grandest  church-building  on  the  Pa- 
cific coast,  as  it  is  the  largest  in  size ; 
the  cost  will  far  exceed  all  estimates, 
reaching  probably  to  $250,000.  Its  di- 
mensions are  90  feet  front  by  160  feet 
in  depth.  The  walls  are  of  brick,  of 
great  thickness  and  strength,  and  from 
the  basement  to  the  eaves  of  the  wings 
are  30  feet  in  height.  From  the  wings 
rise  the  walls  of  the  main  building,  rest- 
ing on  iron  pillars,  and  a roof  of  slate 
ndth  a peak  100  feet  above  the  pavement. 
The  front  entrance  is  through  a brick 


tower  120  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a 
wooden  spire,  the  total  height  of  which 
is  240  feet,  making  it  the  loftiest  spire  in 
the  State,  and  surpassed  by  but  very  few 
in  America. 

St.  Francis's  Church.,  north  side  of  Val- 
lejo Street,  between  Dupont  and  Stockton, 
Rev.  James  H.  Aerden,  pastor,  and  Rev. 
J.  Valentini,  assistant.  This  was  the  first 
Roman  Catholic  church  organized  in  the 
city.  A frame  building  was  put  up 
in  1849.  The  present  large  and  elegant 
structure  was  erected  in  185 9-’ 60.  It  is 
built  of  brick,  in  the  Gothic  style  of 
architecture,  and  has  four  projecting 
towers,  each  ninety  feet  high. 

St,  Ignatiu^s  Church.,  south  side  of 
Market  Street,  between  Fourth  and  Fifth. 
Served  by  the  Fathers  of  the  Society  of 
Jesus,  connected  with  St.  Ignatius’s  Col- 
lege {see  p.  130). 

Church  of  the  Mission  Dolores.,  south- 
west corner  of  Sixteenth  and  Dolores 
Streets.  Rev.  Thomas  Cushing,  pastor; 
Rev.  William  Bowman,  assistant  (see  p. 
134). 

St.  JoscpJds  Church,  west  side  of  Tenth 
Street,  between  Folsom  and  Howard. 
Rev.  II.  P.  Gallagher,  pastor;  Rev.  Joseph 
A.  Gallagher,  Rev.  A.  Cullen,  and  Rev. 
John  McNully,  assistants.  This  is  a large 
and  elegantly-finished  building,  in  the 
cruciform  Gothic  style. 

PRESBYTERIAN. 

First  Presbyterian  Church,  west  side 
of  Stockton  Street,  between  Washington 
and  Clay.  Rev.  J.  K.  Smith,  pastor. 

Calvary  Presbyterian  Church,  north- 
west corner  of  Geary  and  Powell  Streets, 
Rev.  John  Hemphill,  pastor,  is  a large 
and  costly  edifice,  measuring  76  feet  on 
Powell  Street,  and  116  feet  on  Geary 
Street.  Its  appearance  is  rather  peculiar, 
being  that  of  a combination  of  different 
styles  of  architecture,  the  Grecian  pre- 
dominating. It  has  ten  small  towers  ris- 
ing above  the  roof. 

St.  John's  Presbyterian  Church,  north 
side  of  Post  Street,  between  Mason  and 
Taylor.  Rev.  W.  A.  Scott,  pastor.  This 
beautiful  place  of  worship  was  purchased 
from  the  St.  James’s  Episcopal  Parish, 
and  has  since  been  very  much  improved 
and  elegantly  fitted  up. 


127 


San  Francisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco. 


METHODIST. 

First  Methodist  Episcopal  Churchy  west 
side  of  Fov/eli  Street,  between  Washing- 
ton and  Jackson.  Rev.  II.  Cox,  D.  I)., 
pastor.  This  church  was  organized  in 
1849,  and  is  the  oldest  of  the  denomina- 
tion in  the  city. 

Howard  Street  Methodist  Episcopal 
Churchy  south  side  of  Howard  Street,  be- 
tween Second  and  Third.  Rev.  L.  Walker, 
pastor. 

Broadway  German  Methodist  Episcopal 
Churchy  north  side  of  Broadway,  between 
Stockton  and  Powell.  Rev.  Frederick 
Brown,  pastor. 

German  Methodist  Episcopal  Churchy 
Folsom  Street,  between  Fourth  and  Fifth. 
Rev.  H.  Breuck,  pastor. 

Bush  Street  Methodist  Episcopal  Churchy 
Bush  Street,  near  Devisadero.  Rev.  E. 
S.  Todd,  pastor. 

African  Methodist  Episcopal  Churchy 
west  side  of  Powell  Street,  between  Jack- 
son  and  Pacific. 

BAPTIST. 

First  Baptist  Churchy  north  side  of 
Washington  Street,  between  Dupont  and 
Stockton.  Rev.  A.  R.  Medbury,  pastor. 

Columbia  Square  Baptist  Churchy  west 
side  of  Russ  Street,  between  Howard  and 
Folsom.  Rev.  D.  S.  Watson,  D.  D.,  pas- 
tor. 

Third  Baptist  Church  {negro\  east  side 
of  Powell  Street,  between  Bush  and  Sut- 
ter. Rev.  J.  R.  Young,  pastor. 

JEWISH  SYNAGOGUES. 

Congregation  Emanu-El^  north  side  of 
Sutter  Street,  between  Stockton  and  Pow- 
ell. Rev.  Elkan  Cohn,  rabbi.  This  is  a 
large,  elegant,  and  substantial  structure, 
built  of  brick,  with  two  lofty  towers. 
The  building,  including  the  lot,  cost 
$185,000.  It  is  finished  inside  with 
elegance  and  luxury,  and  all  the  arrange- 
ments are  chaste  and  appropriate. 

Congregation  Ohahai  ShalomCy  east  side 
of  Mason  Street,  between  Geary  and  Post. 
Rev.  Jacob  Frenkel,  rabbi.  A very  hand- 
some edifice,  built  substantially  of  brick. 
The  interior  arrangements  are  appropri- 
ate and  imposing,  and  present  a very 
beautiful  appearance. 

Congregation  Sherith  Israel^  corner  of 
Post  and  Taylor  Streets.  Rev.  Dr.  A.  J. 

128 


Messing,  rabbi.  A large  and  commodious 
building,  and  a very  pleasing  architiictii- 
ral  ornament  of  the  city.  The  interior  is 
tastefully  and  elegantly  finished.  The 
lofty  ceiling,  arched  and  frescoed  in  imi- 
tation of  the  sky  at  night,  dazzling  with 
stars,  presents  a most  beautiful  appear- 
ance. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Mariner^  Churchy  northeast  comer 
of  Sacramento  and  Drumm  Streets.  Rev. 
Joseph  Rowell,  pastor.  This  church  was 
organized  for  the  religious  instruction 
and  moral  improvement  of  seafaring  men, 
and  is  strictly  an  undenominational  mis- 
sionary church.  Connected  with  it  are  a 
Bible-class,  a Sunday-school,  a Sunday 
reading-room,  and  weekly  meetings  are 
held  of  the  Marine  Temperance  Society. 
The  members  of  the  church  organization 
distribute  Bibles,  and  perform  other  mis- 
sionary work  at  the  United  States  Marine 
Hospital,  about  the  wharves  and  shipping, 
on  board  men-of-war,  and  other  sea-going 
vessels. 

First  Reformed  Church  ( German)y  place 
of  worship.  Excelsior  Hall,  711  Mission 
Street.  Rev.  Frederick  Fox,  pastor. 

Greek  Church;  place  of  worship,  911 
Jackson  Street.  His  Grace,  Johannes, 
bishop  ; Rev.  Paul  Kedrolivansky,  arch- 
priest ; Rev.  Nicholas  Kovrigin,  pastor. 

First  Congregational  Churchy  south- 
west corner  of  California  and  Dupont 
Streets.  Rev.  Andrew  L.  Stone,  D.  D., 
pastor. 

Second  Congregational  Churchy  east 
side  of  Taylor  Street,  between  Geary  and 
O’Farrell.  Rev.  John  Kimball,  pastor. 

United  German  Evangelican  Lutheran 
Congregation  of  St.  MarFs  Churchy  south 
side  of  Geary  Street,  between  Stockton 
and  Powell.  Rev.  F.  Luders,  and  Rev. 
Paul  Loreutzen,  pastors. 

St.  Paul's  German  Evangelical  Luther*- 
an  Churchy  south  side  of  Mission  Street, 
between  Fifth  and  Sixth.  Rev.  J.  M. 
Buehler,  pastor. 

Sca'ndinavian  Evangelical  Lutheran 
Churchy  Rev.  F.  Nanns,  pastor.  Services 
every  Sunday,  at  1 o’clock,  r.  m.,  in  the 
church  on  Howard  Street,  between  Sec- 
ond and  Third. 

First  New  Jerusalem  Churchy  north 
side  of  O’Farrell  Street,  between  Mason 


S,  Francisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FKAN CISCO,  ROUTE  XYIII.  [S.  FRANCisca 


and  Taylor.  Rev.  John  Doughty,  pastor. 
This  is  a very  neat  building,  in  the  Gothic 
style. 

Unitarian  Churchy  south  side  of 
Geary  Street,  between  Dupont  and  Stock- 
ton.  Rev.  Horatio  Stebbins,  pastor.  A 
very  beautiful  building,  remarkable  for 
the  purity  of  its  architectural  design  and 
the  elegance  of  its  interior  finish. 

Chinese  Mission  House  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Churchy  north  side  of  Wash- 
ington Street,  between  Stockton  and 
Powell.  Rev.  Otis  Gibson,  superintend- 
ent ; Rev.  Hu  Sing  Me,  native  preacher 

Chinese  Mission  House^  northeast  cor- 
ner of  Stockton  and  Sacramento  Streets. 
Rev.  A.  W.  Loomis,  and  Rev.  I.  M.  Con- 
dict,  pastors  {see  page  132). 

PAEK8  AND  PUBLIC  SQUARES. 

The  parks  of  San  Francisco  are  in 
the  future.  Provision  has  been  made  by 
law  for  laying  out  and  improving  an  ex- 
tensive city  park  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  city,  and  for  the  opening  and  improv- 
ing of  a magnificent  avenue ; but  work 
on  these  improvements  has  only  just 
commenced.  The  commissioners  ap- 
pointed are  authorized  to  expend  $100,- 
000  the  first  year,  $75,000  the  second 
year,  and  $50,000  a year  afterward. 

Portsmouth  Square^  commonly  called 
the  Plaza  (west  side  Kearney  Street,  from 
Washington  to  Clay  Streets),  is  enclosed 
with  a handsome  iron  railing,  and  laid 
out  with  gravel  walks,  trees,  shrubs, 
and  grass-plats,  v/ith  a fountain  in  the 
centre  of  the  grounds. 

There  are  a number  of  other  public 
squares  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  but 
none  of  them  have  been  much  improved. 
The  citizens  are  waiting  for  the  Grand 
Park. 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 

City  Ilall^  on  Kearney  Street,  extending 
from  Washington  to  Merchant  Street 
(opposite  the  Plaza). 

The  New  City  Hall^  to  be  built  on  the 
tract  of  land  knov/n  as  Yerba  Buena 
Park,  bounded  by  Market  Street,  MacAl- 
lister  and  Larkin  Streets,  will  be  a very 
elegant  building,  surpassed  by  few  in  the 
United  States. 

The  Custom  House^  Battery  Street,  cor- 
ner of  Washington.  Office  hours  from 


9 o’clock  A.  M.  to  4 o’clock  p.  m.,  daily, 
except  Sundays. 

The  Post-Office  is  in  the  Custom-House 
building.  Office  hours  from  8 o’clock 
A.  M.  to  4 o’clock  r.  m.,  and  from  7 to 
8.30  o’clock,  except  on  Sundays,  when 
the  hours  are  from  9 to  10  o’clock  a.  m. 

Hall  of  Records,  Kearney  Street,  south- 
east corner  of  Washington. 

United  States  Branch  Mint,  north  side 
of  Commercial  Street,  near  Montgomery. 
Office  hours  (Sundays  excepted)  from  9 
o’clock  A.  M.  to  2 o’clock  p.  m.  Gold 
bullion  received  from  9 o’clock  a.  m.  to 
12  o’clock  M.,  and  silver  bullion  from 
12  o’clock  M.  to  1 o’clock  p.  m.  Visitors 
admitted  from  9 o’clock  a.  m.  to  12 
o’clock  M.  0.  H.  La  Grange,  superinten- 
dent. 

At  this  establishment  is  made  two- 
thirds  of  all  the  gold  and  silver  coin 
manufactured  in  the  United  States.  One 
hundred  men  and  three  coining-presses 
are  kept  constantly  busy,  $242,000,000 
having  been  coined  here  between  1854, 
the  year  of  its  establishment,  and  1867, 
inclusive — an  amount  nearly  equal  to 
one-half  the  entire  coinage  of  the  Phila- 
delphia Mint  since  its  origin  in  1793. 

The  New  Mint,  now  building,  will  oc- 
cupy the  100-vara  lot  which  forms  the 
northwest  corner  of  Mission  and  Fifth 
Streets.  It  will  be  a grand  and  substan- 
tial structure,  of  the  Doric-Ionic  order. 
The  lot  cost  $100,000,  and  the  building 
it  is  estimated  will  cost  $1,500,000. 

The  U.  S.  Treasury  is  located  at  428 
Montgomery  Street.  Office  hours  from 
9 o’clock  A.  M.  to  3 o’clock  p.  m.  daily 
(Sundays  excepted). 

The  Merchants*  Exchange  Building,  on 
the  south  side  of  California  Street,  be- 
tween Montgomery  and  Sansome  Streets, 
is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  spacious 
in  the  city.  The  building  cost  about 
$200,000,  and  the  lot  is  valued  at  more 
than  that  sum.  The  large  hall  in  the 
first  story,  occupied  as  the  Merchants’ 
Exchange,  is  a splendid  room  with  lofty 
ceilings.  It  is  fitted  up  for  the  uses  of 
the  Exchange,  and  supplied  with  all  the 
leading  papers  and  magazines,  domestic 
and  foreign.  The  building,  as  a whole, 
presents  a striking  appearance,  but  the 
style  of  architecture  is  somewhat  incon- 
gruous. The  first  story  is  constructed 
129 


San  Francisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco. 


after  the  Doric  order — the  other  two  sto- 
ries each  after  different  orders.  In  the 
tower  is  a very  fine  clock. 

The  United  States  Marine  Hospital^ 
corner  Mission  and  Fifteenth  Streets,  is 
an  extensive  building,  on  a commanding 
eminence,  erected  some  twelve  years  ago. 
It  receives  over  1,000  patients  in  the 
course  of  the  year,  the  average  number 
of  inmates  being  about  100. 

United  States  Appraiser's  Slore^  south- 
west corner  Battery  and  J ackson  Streets. 

County  Hospital^  corner  Stockton  and 
Francisco  Streets. 

Industrial  School^  on  the  old  San  Jose 
road,  five  miles  from  the  City  Hall. 

BENEVOLENT  INSTITUTIONS,  HOSPITALS, 
ETC. 

Among  the  most  notable  of  the  nu- 
merous benevolent  institutions  of  San 
Francisco  are  the  following: 

The  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum^  Lagu- 
na Street,  near  Haight.  This  institution 
was  incorporated  in  1851.  In  1854  the 
present  building  was  erected,  at  a cost  of 
$30,000,  to  which  additions  have  since 
been  made,  involving  a like  expenditure. 
The  asylum  affords  accommodation  for 
250  children. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Orphan  Asylum^ 
Market  Street,  near  Third,  has  accommo- 
dation for  about  '750  children.  There  is 
an  extensive  school,  consisting  of  several 
large  and  costly  buildings,  in  connection 
with  this  institution.  This  noble  estab- 
lishment cost  over  $100,000,  independent 
of  the  valuable  tract  of  land  upon  which 
the  buildings  are  situated. 

The  Ladies'  Protection  and  Relief  Soci- 
ety^ Franklin  Street,  near  Post. 

The  Ladies'  Seaman's  Friend  Society^ 
corner  of  Vallejo  and  Battery  Streets. 

San  Francisco  Benevolent  Association^ 
corner  of  California  and  Webb  Streets. 

Home  for  the  Inebriate^  corner  of  Stock- 
ton  and  Chestnut  Streets.  This  well- 
managed  institution  was  organized  in 
1859. 

The  Magdalen  Asylum^  on  the  San 
Bruno  road,  one  mile  south  of  the  city, 
was  opened  about  five  years  ago,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy.  It 
receives  nearly  100  inmates. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  Dumh^  and 
Blind  has  been  spoken  of  in  the  de- 
130 


scription  of  Oakland.  The  temporary 
building  is  at  the  Mission  Dolores. 

The  Alameda  Park  Asylum  for  the  In- 
sane is  situated  on  the  Encinal,  Alameda. 

Some  of  these  and  other  societies  re- 
ceive liberal  aid  from  the  State,  largo 
sums  being  given  annually,  by  special  ap- 
propriation, to  the  Orphan  Asylums  ; but 
for  their  chief  support,  which  involves 
large  and  constant  expense,  they  are  de- 
pendent upon  the  contributions  of  the 
benevolent.  The  Inebriate  Asylum  re- 
ceives a monthly  appropriation  of  $250 
from  the  city. 

Besides  the  United  States  Marine  Hos- 
pital and  the  County  Hospital,  already 
noticed,  there  are,  among  others  : 

St.  Mary's  Hospital,  comer  Bryant  and 
First  Streets,  a Roman  Catholic  institu- 
tion, having  accommodations  for  a large 
number  of  patients. 

The  Almshouse,  City  and  County,  San 
Miguel  road. 

The  State  Woman's  Hospital,  21  Haw- 
thorne Street,  founded  in  1868  by  several 
benevolent  citizens. 

SCHOOLS  AND  COLLEGES. 

San  Francisco  has  reason  to  be  proud 
of  the  completeness  of  its  educational 
system  and  institutions.  Its  school- 
houses  are  generally  spacious  and  hand- 
some buildings.  Besides  the  public 
schools  there  are  about  seventy  private 
establishments,  some  of  which  are  of  a 
high  order. 

Among  the  Roman  Catholic  institu- 
tions of  learning  is 

The  St.  Ignatius  College,  on  Market 
Street.  The  present  edifice,  though  con- 
stituting but  one-third  of  the  building 
hereafter  to  be  erected,  has  already  cost 
$120,000,  independent  of  the  site  it  oc- 
cupies. The  college  is  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Jesuits,  several  priests  of  the 
order  acting  as  teachers.  {See  page  12'7.) 

St.  Mary's  College,  situated  four  miles 
south  of  the  city,  is  also  a Roman  Catho- 
lic institution.  It  occupies  a costly  brick 
building,  and  is  surrounded  by  spacious 
grounds. 

City  College  is  one  of  the  highest,  not 
under  sectarian  control.  University 
School,  Union  College,  and  the  California 
Business  University,  are  well-conducted 
institutions. 


S.  Fkancisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Francisco. 


CEMETERIES. 

Laurel  Hill  Cemetery^  situated  a little 
west  of  Lone  Mountain,  two  and  a half 
miles  west  of  Montgomery  Street,  and  op- 
posite California  Street.  Office,  601  Cali- 
fornia Street. 

Masonic  Cemetery^  near  Lone  Moun- 
tain. Office,  326  Montgomery  Street, 

Odd  - Fellows'  Cemetery^  near  Lone 
Mountain.  Office,  325  Montgomery  Street. 

Mount  Calvary  Cemetery  (Roman  Cath- 
olic), east  of  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery, 

Hebrew  Cemetery^  Gihboth  Olom  (Hills 
of  Eternity),  Dolores  Street,  between 
Nineteenth  and  Twentieth,  and  Church 
Streets. 

Hebrew  Cemetery^  Nevai  Shalome  (Home 
of  Peace),  Dolores  Street,  between  Eigh- 
teenth and  Nineteenth,  and  Church 
Streets. 

Lone  Mountain  Cemetery. — In  the  vi- 
cinity of  the  grounds  selected  for  ceme- 
teries is  a singular  mountain  of  a conical 
shape,  which  rises  up,  singly  and  alone, 
to  a considerable  height  above  the  sur- 
rounding country,  which  is  tolerably 
level.  This  has  very  appropriately  been 
called  Lone  Mountain.  The  mountain 
proper  is  enclosed  in  the  Roman  Catholic 
Cemetery,  and  by  that  association  called 
Mount  Calvary,  which  has  planted  on 
its  summit  a large  wooden  cross.  The 
mountain  and  cross  are  very  conspicuous, 
and  may  be  seen  from  almost  any  part  of 
the  city.  The  former,  being  so  marked 
a feature  of  the  landscape,  and  the  prin- 
cipal cemeteries  lying  immediately  around 
it,  the  custom  seemed  to  come  naturally 
to  speak  of  the  cemeteries  generally  as 
Lone  Mountain,  although  this  is  not  the 
corporate  name  of  any  of  them. 

This  pretty  ground  is  two  and  a half 
miles  west  of  the  principal  hotels,  and  is 
reached  by  street-cars.  It  was  dedicated 
May  30,  1851.  The  first  interment  was 
made  June  2,  1854.  It  then  consisted 
of  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres,  which 
was  enlarged  to  its  present  size  in  1862. 
Upward  of  fifteen  thousand  interments 
have  already  been  made.  Large  numbers 
of  the  Chinese  have  been  placed  in  vaults 
in  this  cemetery,  previous  to  their  re- 
moval to  China.  Among  the  monuments, 
that  erected  to  Senator  Broderick,  from 
a design  by  William  Craine,  is  one  of  the 


most  noteworthy.  Ralston’s,  modelled 
after  the  Parthenon  at  Rome,  and  Lu- 
ning’s,  are  also  fine  structures. 

The  great  feature  of  Lone  Mountain 
is  its  unrivalled  outlook,  embracing  fine 
bird’s-eye  views  of  the  ocean,  bay,  and 
city.  Mount  Diablo,  and  the  Coast  Range. 
{See  chapter  on  California.) 

THE  CniNESE  IN'  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

There  are  probably  about  20,000 
Chinese  in  San  Francisco.  On  every 
block  you  see  them;  at  the  turn  of 
every  corner  you  see  the  ever-present 
blue  sack,  nankeen  pants,  turban  hat, 
and  pigtail  of  John.  They  all  dress 
about  the  same — seldom  a ragged  or 
patched  coat  is  to  be  seen.  In  almost 
every  family  and  restaurant  are  to  be 
found  the  Chinese  cooks  ; in  every  street 
you  will  pass  some  “ Chang  ” or  “Wong  ” 
sign  hung  out  with  the  W'ords  under- 
neath, “ washing  and  ironing  done  here.” 

The  Theatre. — No  person  visiting  San 
Francisco  should  fail  of  a visit  to  the 
Chinese  Theatre.  It  is  located  in  the 
centre  of  “ China-town  ” — the  northern 
part  of  San  Francisco.  Here  all  the 
Chinese  in  the  city  have  congregated ; 
they  hold  undisputed  possession  of  sever- 
al blocks,  and  the  houses  are  crammed 
from  cellar  and  sub-cellar  to  garret.  The 
theatre  is  in  a two-story  building,  the  en- 
trance to  the  same  being  through  a long, 
dirty,  yellow-paper  covered  alley.  Every 
person  is  smoking,  and,  if  the  visitor 
happens  to  have  a seat  in  the  gallery,  he 
will  have  ample  opportunity  forjudging  of 
the  difference  between  the  smell  of  very 
bad  cigars  and  opium. 

The  stage  is  about  ten  feet  high,  and 
covered  on  all  sides  with  dirty,  faded  red- 
and- yellow  paper,  and  black  Chinese 
letters.  Faded  gilt  stripes  are  here  and 
there  observable  ; pieces  of  tin,  like  sar- 
dine-boxes, piled  on  top  of  each  other, 
are  nailed  to  the  walls  ; wings,  tails,  and 
heads  of  birds  are  hung  up  with  old  tin 
pans,  broken  chairs,  legless  tables,  dirty 
coats,  hats,  and  pants,  rusty  swords, 
broomsticks  burned  black  for  spears, 
peacock-feathers,  red  and  yellow  stripes 
of  muslin,  old  boots  and  shoes,  wooden 
animals  painted  every  color  but  the  natu- 
ral, junks  with  sails  set,  armies  march- 
ing, and  bulls  fighting,  in  fact  the  stage 
131 


San  Fkancisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco, 


is  indescribable — imagine  all  the  things 
in  Bamum’s  Museum  thrown  out  of  the 
windows  in  an  indiscriminate  heap,  and 
an  idea  can  be  formed  of  the  stage  in  the 
Chinese  Theatre. 

The  orchestra  (?)  sit  on  the  stage  and 
smoke  all  the  time ; some  have  things 
like  horseshoes  fastened  to  a stick  a 
yard  long ; these  they  strike  together ; 
others  have  gongs  in  their  hands,  and 
one  is  so  large  it  is  fastened  to  a table, 
and  the  fellow  who  strikes  it  blows  like  a 
blacksmith  swinging  the  sledge-hammer 
on  an  anvil.  Another  has  a brass  thing 
like  a washing-tub,  hung  as  high  as  his 
head ; this  he  pounds  with  two  things 
like  stilts.  There  is  no  music,  it  is 
simply  each  man  trying  to  make  more 
noise  than  his  fellow  ; after  the  “ orches- 
tra have  worn  themselves  out  with 
making  the  noise,  the  performance  com- 
mences. Several  fellows,  clad  in  green, 
red,  and  yellow  costume,  with  long  feath- 
ers sticking  out  from  the  backs  of  their 
necks,  wings  on  their  shoulders,  and 
large  masks  in  imitation  of  bulls,  horses, 
and  other  beasts,  begin  strutting  about 
and  shouting  one  to  another.  It  is  im- 
possible for  any  one  except  he  be  a Chi- 
naman to  understand  what  is  going  on. 
Here  also  can  be  seen  the  Chinese  la- 
dies (?)  sitting  in  a separate  compart- 
ment in  the  gallery.  It  is  quite  a com- 
mon thing  to  see  them  here  with  their 
opium-pipes  and  a little  basket  contain- 
ing the  tea-pot — with  tea  ready  made — 
and  several  small  cups ; while  the  per- 
formance is  going  on,  they  are  alternate- 
ly drinking  and  smoking  opium. 

Gambling -Houses^  etc. — A visit  to  the 
gambling-houses  and  opium-cellars  of  the 
Chinese  will  well  repay  the  tourist.  To 
insure  a ready  admittance  and  respectful 
treatment,  obtain  the  services  of  a po- 
liceman. As  a general  thing,  every  Chi- 
naman gambles ; they  are  the  greatest 
gamblers  in  the  world.  In  a cellar 
twelve  feet  under-ground  will  be  found 
eighty  or  a hundred  sitting  around  ta- 
bles and  betting.  Their  mode  of  gam- 
bling is  simple  : some  one  throws  a hand- 
ful of  copper  coins  on  the  table  and  after 
putting  up  stakes  they  bet  whether  the 
number  of  coins  is  odd  or  even ; then 
they  count  them  and  declare  the  result. 
Often  in  a single  night  they  will  gamble 
182 


away  one  or  two  months’  wages.  The 
places  are  greasy  and  dirty  in  the  ex- 
treme, and  iilled  with  smoke. 

The  opium  smoking-houses  and  cellars 
are  fitted  up  with  bunks  a good  deal  like 
closets.  Say  a closet  has  eight  shelves  ; 
well,  on  each  shelf  there  will  be  found  as 
many  Chinamen,  lying  down  on  the 
boards,  in  pairs,  with  a wooden  box  for 
a pillow.  They  smoke  in  pairs:  while 
one  is  smoking  and  preparing  the  opium, 
the  other  is  dozing  in  a half-drunken 
sleep.  When  number  one  has  had  his 
smoke,  he  prepares  the  opium  and  pipe 
for  number  two ; having  handed  the  pipe 
to  number  two,  number  one  keels  over 
with  eyes  shut  and  mouth  open  in  an 
insensible  state  and  takes  a nap ; then 
number  two  smokes,  hands  the  pipe  to 
the  first,  and  he  too  falls  over,  and  so 
they  go  on,  one  smoking  after  the  other 
until  both  are  thoroughly  “laid  out”  on 
the  shelf.  They  take  the  opium-smoke 
into  their  lungs,  retain  it  there  as  long 
as  possible,  and  finally  eject  it  through 
the  nostrils. 

The  Temples. — The  Chinese  have  three 
temples  at  present  in  San  Francisco. 
The  two  principal  gods  are  “ How  W ong  ” 
and  “ Quong  Fi.”  At  all  hours  of  the 
day  the  visitor  will  find  the  temples  open, 
and  any  number  of  joss-sticks  smoking 
in  front  of  the  favorite  gods. 

Protestant  Schools. — The  religious  peo- 
ple of  San  Francisco  have  established 
ten  or  a dozen  Sabbath-schools,  where 
the  Chinese  can  learn  first  the  English 
language,  and  secondly,  the  creeds,  etc., 
of  the  Protestant  Church  The  princi- 
pal school  at  present  is  that  of  Rev.  Hr. 
Loomis.  Here  they  sing  first  in  English, 
then  in  Chinese,  the  hymns  “ There  is  a 
Happy  Land,”  “Rock  ot  Ages,”  “I  want 
to  be  an  Angel,”  “ Just  as  I am,  without 
one  Plea,”  and  others ; they  repeat  the 
Ten  Commandments  and  the  Lord’s 
Prayer.  Hr.  Loomis  prays,  using  the 
Chinese  language,  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Con- 
dict  then  preaches  to  them  in  their  moth- 
er tongue.  Their  behavior  is  very  good, 
and  their  singing  excellent.  Religious 
newspapers,  published  in  their  language 
at  Canton,  by  the  missionaries,  are  dis- 
tributed one  to  each  scholar.  {See  page 
128.) 


S.  Fbakoisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Francisco. 


HIDES,  DRIYES,  ETC. 

The  most  prominent  places  in  and 
around  the  city  are  the  following ; 

Alcatraces — A fortified  island  in  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  one  and  two-thirds 
mile  from  Telegraph  Hill. 

Angel  Island— An  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, within  one  mile  of  Marin  County 
and  five  miles  of  San  Francisco. 

Bay  View  Park  and  Race-course — ^Near 
Hunter’s  Point,  five  miles  south  of  the 
City  Hall. 

Black  Point — On  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, at  the  commencement  of  Franklin 
Street,  one  and  one-half  mile  northwest 
of  the  City  Hall. 

darkens  Point  — Foot  of  Broadway 
Street. 

Cliff  House — Near  the  ocean,  at  the 
termination  of  Point  Lobos  Road,  six  and 
one-half  miles  west  of  the  City  Hall.  {8ee 
page  134.) 

Fairmount — Old  San  Jose  Road,  four 
miles  southwest  from  the  City  Hall. 

Farallone  Islands  — In  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  near  the  entrance  to  the  Golden 
Gate,  twenty-nine  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. {See  page  134.) 

Fort  Point — Near  Golden  Gate,  four 
miles  west  of  the  City  Hall. 

Golden  Gate — The  entrance  to  the  Bay 
of  San  Francisco,  six  miles  west  of  the 
City  Hall.  {See  page  134.) 

Hunter's  Point  — Four  and  one-half 
miles  southeast  from  the  City  Hall.  {See 
page  134.) 

Kensington  — Howard  Street,  near 
Twenty-first. 

Lagoon — Gough  Street,  between  Lom- 
bard and  Francisco, 

Laguna  de  la  Merced — Near  the  ocean, 
seven  miles  southwest  of  the  City  Hall. 

Lake  Honda — Near  the  Ocean  House 
Road,  four  miles  southwest  of  the  City 
Hall. 

Lone  Mountain — Near  the  termination 
of  Bush  Street,  three  miles  southwest  of 
the  City  Hall.  {See  page  131.) 

Long  Bridge — Extends  from  the  ter- 
mination of  Fourth  Street  to  Potrero 
Nuevo. 

Mission  Dolores  Church — Corner  of 
Sixteenth  and  Dolores  Streets,  three 
miles  southwest  of  the  City  Hall.  {See 
page  134.) 


Mountain  Lake — Near  the  Presidio, 
three  miles  west  of  the  City  Hall. 

Forth  Beach — Extends  from  the  foot 
of  Powell  Street  north  to  Black  Point. 

Ocean  House  and  Race-course — Ocean 
House  Road,  McAllister  Street,  seven 
miles  southwest  of  the  City  Hall.  {See 
page  134.) 

Ocean- Side  House — Ocean  beach,  seven 
miles  southwest  of  the  City  Hall. 

Point  Lobos — Opposite  the  Golden 
Gate,  six  miles  southwest  of  the  City  Hall. 
{See  page  135.) 

Point  San  Quentin — Foot  of  Sierra 
Street,  Potrero  Nuevo,  two  and  one-half 
miles  southeast  of  the  City  Hall. 

Potrero  Nuevo — Near  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  two  and  one-half  miles  south 
of  the  City  Hall. 

Presidio — ^Fronting  on  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  three  miles  west  of  the  City 
Hall.  {See  page  135.) 

San  Jose  Point — ^At  the  termination  of 
Yan  Ness  Avenue  and  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco. 

Seal  Rock — Six  miles  west  of  the  City 
Hall.  {See  page  134.) 

Sprmg  Valley — The  vicinity  of  Filbert 
and  Gough  Streets. 

Steamboat  Point  — Foot  of  Second 
Street. 

Telegraph  Hill — From  Broadway  Street, 
between  Dupont  and  the  bay  north  to 
Bay  Street. 

Visitacion  Valley — Near  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco  and  the  San  Mateo  line, 
six  miles  south  of  the  City  Hall. 

Yerba  Buena — ^An  island  in  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco,  one  and  one-half  mile 
from  Market  Street  wharf.  {See  page 
121.) 

THE  CLIFF  HOUSE,  SEAL  ROOK:,  FARAL- 

LOHE  ISLANDS,  HUNTEE’s  POINT,  MIS- 
SION DOLORES,  ETC. 

The  favorite  drive  of  the  pleasure- 
seekers  of  San  Francisco  is  to  the  Cliff 
House,  which  is  built  on  the  edge  of  the 
cliffs,  at  the  southern  side  of  the  entrance 
to  the  Golden  Gate.  By  land  it  is  seven 
miles  from  the  city.  A fine,  broad,  mac- 
adamized road  of  five  miles’  length  leads 
from  the  outskirts  of  the  city  to  a group 
of  cliffs  outside  the  Golden  Gate,  on  the 
shore  of  the  Pacific.  On  either  side  of 
the  toll-gate  at  the  entrance  of  the  road^ 
133 


San  Francisco.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[San  Francisco 


lie  the  Lone  Mountain  Cemetery  and  Lone 
Mountain  itself.  The  road  is  bounded 
by  low,  grass-covered  hills,  and  hills  of 
golden-colored  sand,  which  contrast  fine- 
ly with  each  other  under  the  bril- 
lia,nt  sky,  which  gives  constant  pleas- 
ure to  the  eye  accustomed  to  the  many 
dull  days  of  an  Eastern  winter  or  spring. 
The  whole  length  of  the  road  is  watered 
in  dusty  weather,  and  is  as  smooth  and 
well-kept  as  a race-course.  Here  you 
meet  vehicles  and  riders  of  every  de- 
scription, particularly  on  Saturday  after- 
noon, the  half-holiday  of  the  business 
men.  Fast  trotting  and  open  carriages 
abound.  Glimpses  of  the  Golden  Gate 
and  its  bold  headlands  meet  the  eye  here 
and  there  to  the  right,  and  as  we  near  the 
end  of  our  ride  we  have  a grand  view  of 
the  Pacific  beyond  the  hills  on  our  left, 
and  then,  with  a sharp  turn  between 
rugged  sand-hills,  we  see  a glorious  ex- 
panse of  blue  ocean,  and  are  at  the  Cliff 
House.  This  is  a low,  rambling  building, 
set  upon  some  cliffs  rising  sharply  from 
the  ocean  and  facing  west.  The  road 
passes  on  by  the  hotel,  cut  through  solid 
rock,  with  a stone  parapet  on  the  sea- 
ward side,  to  a broad,  beautiful  beach, 
which  is  of  several  miles’  length,  and  over 
which  at  low  tide  one  can  easily  drive  to 
the  Ocean  House  at  its  extreme  end,  and 
return  to  San  Francisco  by  a road  behind 
the  Mission  hills.  But  no  one  passes  by 
the  Cliff  House  without  stopping;  its 
pretty  parlor  and  broad  piazzas  facing  the 
sea  detain  the  visitor  very  pleasantly. 
The  restaurant  attached  to  the  house  is 
famed  for  its  excellence,  and  it  is  a cus- 
tom of  the  dwellers  in  San  Francisco  to 
drive  down  in  the  lovely  morning,  before 
the  summer  northers  begin  to  blow,  and 
breakfast  there. 

8eal  Rock  is  close  by  the  hotel,  and  the 
greatest  charm  of  the  place  is  the  lounge 
upon  the  wide,  shaded  piazza,  facing  the 
bold  rocks  which  thrust  their  heads  from 
the  water,  and  to  watch  the  seals,  which, 
covering  these  rocks,  bask  in  the  sun, 
sleep  or  wriggle  their  clumsy  bodies  up 
and  down  as  if  every  movement  were 
difficult,  barking  so  noisily  that  they  are 
heard  above  the  superb  roar  of  the  break- 
ers. Northward  lies  the  Golden  Gaie^ 
through  whose  ent  rance  sail  in  and  out 
ships  of  all  descriptions.  Southward,  the 
134 


beach,  upon  which  the  waves  beat  cease- 
lessly, and  beyond,  a rocky  shore,  whose 
peaks  melt  into  the  blue  distance.  The 
vast  ocean  in  front  sparkles  in  the  sun, 
and  in  the  distant  horizon  on  a clear  day 
the  peaks  of  the  Farallone  Islands  arc 
visible. 

2^hc  Farallone  Islands  are  a rugged 
mass  of  rock  of  almost  200  acres  in  ex- 
tent, belonging  to  the  Farallone  Island 
Egg  Company.  Here  the  murre,  a large 
bird,  resorts  to  deposit  her  eggs  and 
hatch  her  young.  At  a distance,  the 
birds  hovering  over  the  islands  look  like 
a dark  cloud.  The  whole  island  is  cov- 
ered with  nests.  At  the  breeding-season 
the  company  robs  the  nests,  and  supplies 
the  whole  city  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try with  the  eggs.  Several  hundred 
thousand  eggs  are  gathered  every  season. 
So  great  is  the  trade  that  the  company 
has  a vessel  which,  in  the  season,  makes 
regular  trips  between  San  Francisco  and 
the  Farallone  Islands. 

Hunter'^s  Point. — In  an  opposite  direc- 
tion from  the  city  lies  the  dry-dock  at 
Hunter’s  Point.  This  is  cut  out  of  solid 
rock,  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest 
docks  in  the  world.  The  ride  to  it  leads 
across  an  arm  of  the  bay,  and  over  round- 
ed hills  covered  with  short  grass,  and 
destitute  of  any  other  vegetation.  Varied 
views  of  the  harbor,  and  the  coves  and 
rocks  running  into  the  hill-sides,  make 
the  drive  pleasant. 

Mission  Dolores.  — A visit  to  the  Mis- 
sion^ three  miles  southwest  of  the  city, 
will  interest  the  stranger.  The  Market 
Street  railroad-cars  start  for  that  point 
each  half  hour  in  the  day.  Lines  of  om- 
nibuses run  to  the  same  place  by  a more 
circuitous  route,  passing  through  “ The 
WiUows,”  a pleasant  suburban  retreat, 
on  their  way.  Many  fine  gardens  are  in 
the  vicinity.  The  Race-course  is  a mile 
beyond.  The  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum 
is  a fine  building  half  a mile  north.  The 
Mission  itself  is  an  object  of  much  inter- 
est. It  is  an  adobe  building  of  the  old 
Spanish  style,  built  in  1776.  Adjoining 
is  the  cemetery,  with  its  well-worn  paths 
n.nd  fantastic  monuments. 

All  through  California  one  finds,  scat- 
tered in  the  choicest  situations  for  shelter 
and  fertility,  the  old  Spanish  mission 
stations,  founded  by  the  Jesuit  missiona- 


S.  Fkancisco.]  OMAHA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO,  ROUTE  XVIII.  [S.  Francisco. 


ries  nearly  a century  since.  Many  of  them 
still  exist  under  their  old  names,  though 
the  services  are  no  longer  held  for  the 
Indian  converts,  all  traces  of  them  seem- 
ing to  have  passed  away.  The  church 
of  the  Mission  Dolores  has  been  enclosed 
in  Avood  on  three  sides  to  saA^e  it  from 
utter  ruin.  The  old  front  remains,  with 
its  simple  but  quaint  fa9ade,  and  its 
silver  bells  giving  forth  a very  uncertain 
sound,  for  they  are  sadly  cracked;  and 
services  are  held  in  front  of  the  ancient 
altar  and  beneath  the  queerly-painted 
walls.  The  adjoining  adobe  buildings, 
once  filled  with  the  converts,  and  later 
Avith  students,  are  now  used  for  shabby 
shops  and  a still  shabbier  station-room, 
whose  loAV  doors  are  flanked  by  a pair 
of  weather-worn  walrus-tusks.  Opposite 
these  is  a modern  three-story  brick  build- 
ing, surrounded  by  a high  fence  enclosing 
well-kept  grounds,  where  the  nuns  of  the 
order  of  Notre-Dame  keep  a large  school. 

The  Presidio^  Fort  Pointy  etc, — A line 
of  horse-cars  runs  near  to  the  Presidio^ 
which  is  situated  some  three  miles  tOAvard 
the  Golden  Gate  ; a mile  farther  is  Fort 
Pointy  so  called  from  the  fortification 
which  protects  the  entrance  to  the  harbor. 
Following  the  shore  we  pass  Point  Lohos^ 
Seal-Rock  House,  and  the  Cliff  House, 
From  this  point,  returning  to  the  city,  8 
miles  distant,  the  road  Avinds  through 
and  over  the  San  Bruno  Hills,  from  whose 
peaks — 1,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea — a fine  view  of  the  bay  on  one  side, 
and  of  the  ocean  on  the  other,  is  to  be  had. 

Those  who  AAush  to  get  entirely  aAvay 
from  the  city’s  noise  and  dust,  and 
enjoy  the  country  in  its  purity  and 
beaut}",  can  cross  the  bay  by  any  one  of 
the  numerous  ferries,  and  find  quiet, 
lovely  villages  in  any  direction, — beauti- 
ful valleys,  elegant  farm-houses,  neat, 
pretty  cottages,  covered  with  running 
roses,  and  surrounded  by  bright  flowers, 
Avell-filled  orchards,  and  extensive  vine- 
yards. All  these,  occurring  in  constant 
succession,  must  charm  and  satisfy  to 
the  fullest  extent  seekers  of  the  joys 
of  country  life. 

DISTANCES  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  THE 
INTERIOR  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

Alameda,  12  miles  by  steamer  and  rail- 
road. 


Almaden  Mines,  67  miles  by  railroad 
and  stage. 

Alviso,  46  miles  by  water,  or  60  miles 
railroad  and  stage. 

Belmont,  25  miles  by  railroad. 

Benicia,  30  miles  by  steamer. 

Big  Trees,  72  miles  from  Stockton  via 
Murphy’s  by  stage. 

Calistoga,  7 1 miles  by  steamer  and  rail- 
road. 

Crystal  Springs,  23  miles  by  railroad 
and  stage. 

Geyser  Springs,  99  miles  by  steamer, 
railroad,  and  stage. 

Gilroy,  80  miles  by  railroad. 

Half  Moon  Bay,  34  miles  by  railroad 
and  stage. 

Healdsburg,  80  miles  by  steamer  and 
stage. 

Mare  Island,  28  miles  by  steamer. 

Martinez,  35  miles  by  steamer. 

Mission  San  Jose,  38  miles  by  steamer, 
railroad,  and  stage. 

Mount  Diablo  Mines,  44  miles  by 
steamer  and  stage. 

Mountain  View,  38  miles  by  railroad. 

Napa  City,  44  miles  by  steamer  and 
railroad. 

Oakland,  8 miles  by  steamer  and  rail- 
road. 

Pacheco,  31  miles  by  steamer  and  stage. 

Petaluma,  48  miles  by  steamer. 

RedAvood  City,  28  miles  by  railroad. 

Sacramento,  111  miles  by  steamer  and 
railroad,  and  117  by  steamer. 

San  Jose,  50  miles  by  railroad. 

San  Leandro,  18  miles  by  steamer  and 
railroad. 

San  Quentin,  12  miles  by  steamer. 

San  Rafael,  14  miles  by  steamer  and 
railroad. 

Santa  Clara,  46  miles  by  railroad. 

Santa  Cruz,  76  miles  by  railroad  and 
stage. 

Stockton,  90  miles  by  railroad  and  117 
by  water. 

Suisun,  50  miles  by  steamer. 

Vallejo,  28  miles  by  steamer. 

Warm  Springs,  Alameda  County,  41 
miles  by  steamer,  railroad,  and  stage. 

White  Sulphur  Springs,  Napa  County, 
52  miles  by  steamer. 

White  Sulphur  Springs,  Vallejo,  31 
miles  by  railroad  and  stage. 

Yosemite  Falls,  from  Stockton  via  Ma- 
riposa 150  miles  by  stage. 


135 


TOUES  OF  THE  GEEAT  LAKES  AND  EIYEES. 


TO  UR  I. 

FSOM  JSTMW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS : 

Via  Niagara  Falls,  Lah&  Erie,  Detroit  River, 
Lake  St.  Clair,  River  St.  Clair,  Lake  Huron, 
River  Saint  Mary,  Lake  Superior,  Lake  8u~ 
perior  and  Missisdppi  Railway,  and  Mis- 
sissippi River. 

This  tour  is  one  in  which  variety  and 
grandeur  of  scenery,  and  luxurious  ease 
in  travelling,  are  harmoniously  combined. 
Three  inland  seas  are  crossed,  the  great- 
est cataract  on  the  continent  is  visited, 
rich  mines  of  iron  and  copper  can  be  en- 
tered if  the  traveller  desires,  the  pictu- 
resque dalles  of  the  St.  Louis  River  are 
seen  to  great  advantage,  and  the  most 
beautiful  portion  of  the  Mississippi  River 
is  traversed.  The  stifling  heat  and  dust 
of  our  great  cities  are  left  behind,  and  the 
tourist  draws  in  new  life  with  every  breath 
of  the  cool,  bracing  northern  air,  while 
he  can  feast  upon  delicious  fish  fresh  from 
the  clear,  cold  waters  of  their  native  lakes 
and  streams.  Our  proposed  trip  is  cer- 
tainly the  most  delightful  one  that  can  be 
taken  in  this  country  during  the  summer 
months,  as,  aside  from  all  considerations 
of  scenery,  the  mode  of  travelling  is  so 
very  comfortable ; the  only  portion  of 
the  journey  in  which  land  travel  is  ne- 
cessary, after  reaching  Buffalo,  being 
the  short  portage  from  Duluth  to  Saint 
Paul. 

Prom  New  York  to  Niagara  Falls,  the 
ordinary  tourist  would  take  either  the 
Erie  or  Central  Railway  and  would  com- 
mence his  excursion  at  Lake  Erie ; but, 
if  time  and  money  could  both  be  spared, 
a far  pleasanter  plan  would  be  to  go  up 
136 


the  Hudson  by  a steamer  of  the  Day  Line, 
thence  by  rail  to  Lake  George,  cross 
Lakes  George  and  Champlain  by  steamer, 
proceed  by  rail  to  Montreal,  and  thence 
by  steamer  to  Niagara,  thus  being  enabled 
to  view  the  charming  scenery  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  and  to  cross  Lalte  Ontario,  en- 
tering the  Niagara  River  at  its  mouth. 
The  various  methods  of  reaching  this 
point  are  all  elaborately  given  in  Apple- 
tons’  Hand-book  of  American  Travel — 
Northern  and  Eastern  Tour,  in  which 
will  also  be  found  a long  and  carefully- 
written  description  of  the  Falls  and  the 
vicinity. 

The  regular  lines  of  steamers  in  the 
lake-trade  are  swift,  strong,  safe,  com- 
modious, and  elegantly  furnished ; the 
staterooms  are  fitted  up  with  wide  bed- 
steads and  all  the  comforts  of  a cosy  little 
bedroom,  the  cabins  are  large  and  even 
sumptuous  in  their  appointments,  and 
the  “ table  ” is  excellent.  As  a rule,  the 
officers  of  the  steamers  are  kind  and  at- 
tentive, and  on  board  most  of  the  boats 
is  to  be  found  a band  ready  to  furnish 
music  for  dancing.  These  steamers  leave 
Buffalo,  Erie,  Cleveland,  and  Detroit. 
They  may  be  taken  at  any  one  of  these 
places,  or  at  Port  Huron  or  Port  Sarnia, 
at  the  foot  of  Lake  Huron.  The  usual 
through-fare  from  Buffiilo  to  St.  Louis, 
including  meals,  is  $68 ; but  excursion 
tickets  are  issued  during  the  season  at 
reduced  rates. 

Erie,  which  is  first  crossed, 
is  the  shallowest  and  most  dangerous  of 
the  entire  chain  of  the  Great  Lakes.  It 
can  be  avoided  at  the  cost  of  a ten  or 
twelve  hours’  railway  journey,  but  then 


Dunkirk.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[Wyandotte. 


the  tourist  loses  the  pleasure  of  the  De- 
troit River  trip.  The  lake  is  250  miles 
long,  60  miles  wide,  and  averaging  about 
100  feet  in  depth.  It  is  564  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Together  with  Lakes 
Ontario,  Huron,  Michigan,  and  Superior, 
it  is  recognized  rather  as  a sea  than  a 
lake.  After  leaving  Buffalo,  the  scenery 
is  uninteresting,  as  we  do  not  approach 
near  enough  to  the  land  to  see  any  thing 
except  when  entering  and  leaving  port, 
and  many  of  the  steamers  make  no  stops 
until  reaching  Detroit.  For  the  conve- 
nience of  the  traveller  who  may  be  upon 
a boat  making  all  the  landings,  a brief 
description  of  the  principal  ones  along 
the  southern  shore  of  the  lake  may  not 
be  out  of  place.  More  extended  notices 
of  some  of  them  will  be  found  in  Route 
II.  in  this  volume,  where  they  are  treated 
as  railway-stations. 

N.  "W.  (42  miles  from 
Buffalo),  has  a good  harbor,  but  is  not 
particularly  attractive.  The  entrance  is 
rather  difficult  in  rough  weather. 

Erie,  (90  miles  from  Buffalo), 

the  terminus  of  the  Fhiladelphia  do  Erie 
Railway^  has  a very  large  and  beautiful 
harbor,  formed  by  what  was  once  a long, 
narrow  peninsula,  but  is  now  an  island. 
The  bar  at  the  mouth  has  been  dredged 
away  so  as  to  afford  a good  channel. 
Erie  is  a United  States  naval  station.  It 
was  here  that  Commodore  Perry  took 
his  prizes  after  the  battle  of  Lake  Erie 
in  September,  1813.  His  flag-ship,  the 
Lawrence,  was  dismantled  in  this  port, 
and  some  of  the  wreck  is  still  in  the 
harbor. 

ClevclasacI,  O,  (185  miles  from 
Buffalo).  Steamers  usually  make  a stay 
of  several  hours  at  this  port.  The  city 
stands  upon  a high  bluff,  and  a good  view 
of  it  is  had  from  the  water.  (For  descrip- 
tion, see  page  17.) 

!Pnit»iia»15ay  are  a 

very  beautiful  group,  belonging  to  the 
State  of  Ohio.  (For  description,  see  page 
6.)  Passing  among  these  and  other  isl- 
ands, the  tourist  approaches  the  mouth 
of  the 

I>etroit  ISivei*,  the  distance  be- 
tween the  shores  gradually  diminishing 
until  they  are  only  three  miles  apart.  On 
the  right  bank  is  the  Dominion  of  Canada, 
and  on  the  left  the  State  of  Michigan,  the 


stream  being  dotted  with  islands,  none 
of  which  are  worthy  of  particular  notice 
until  “ Grosse  Isle'^  is  reached.  This, 
which  is  three  miles  long  and  one  wide, 
is  a favorite  summer  resort  for  Detroiters, 
who  here  find,  within  twenty  miles  of 
their  homes,  a delightful  retreat  from  the 
heat  and  dust  of  the  city.  The  island 
divides  the  river  into  two  channels,  which 
are  known  as  American  and  Canadian ; 
the  latter,  being  the  deepest,  is  used  en- 
tirely by  through-boats,  none  passing  on 
the  American  side  except  to  touch  at 
Trenton  or  Gibraltar,  the  former  of  which 
is  a flourishing  place  noted  for  its  ship 
building.  Opposite  Grosse  Isle  is  MaU 
den^  an  old-fashioned  Canadian  village, 
the  site  of  Fort  Malden,  a garrisoned  post, 
important  only  from  its  position.  The 
river  is  broad,  varying  from  three  miles 
at  the  mouth  to  a mile  in  width  at  the 
city  of  Detroit ; the  Canadian  shore  rising 
abruptly  from  the  water  to  a height  of 
from  20  to  25  feet,  the  American  shore 
being  low,  and  in  some  places  marshy. 
Two  sluggish  streams,  the  Riviere  aux 
Canards^  near  Malden,  and  the  River 
Rouge^  near  Detroit,  are  the  only  affluents, 
and  are  of  no  importance  whatever  except 
as  affording  excellent  duck-shooting,  as 
the  name  of  the  one  first  mentioned  would 
indicate.  There  are  several  low  islands 
in  the  river,  which  are  used  as  fishing- 
stations.  The  white-fish  fisheries  afford 
a livelihood  to  large  numbers  of  men. 

Wyandotte,  Mielt.  (15  miles 
below  Detroit),  is  the  site  of  extensive 
rolling-mills,  which  may  truly  be  said  to 
have  created  the  town.  What  was  for- 
merly nothing  but  a farm,  is  now  an  in- 
corporated city.  The  factories  use  Lake 
Superior  iron,  and  turn  out  rails  and 
sheet-iron  of  the  best  quality. 

Three  miles  below  the  steamboat  land- 
ing at  Detroit,  the  river  makes  a sudden 
turn,  and  the  city  comes  into  full  view. 
On  the  right  hand  is  the  village  of  Sand- 
wich^ in  Canada,  and  directly  opposite  is 
Fort  Wayne^  a bastioned  redoubt  mount- 
ed with  heavy  ordnance,  and  garrisoned 
by  four  or  five  companies  of  United  States 
troops.  For  at  least  six  miles  commencing 
at  the  fort,  the  river-front  is  lined  with 
mills,  dry-docks,  ship-yards,  founderies, 
grain-elevators,  railway-depots,  and  ware- 
houses. On  the  Canadian  shore  but  little 
137 


Detroit.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Saint  Clair. 


evidence  is  seen  of  enterprise  or  thrift. 
(For  description,  see  page* 2.) 

S>etroit,  Midi.,  has  extraor- 
dinary advantages  as  a manufacturing 
place,  {ind  has  the  best  harbor  on  the 
whole  line  of  the  Great  Lakes,  while  its 
central  position  between  the  mining-re- 
gion of  Lake  Superior  and  the  great  mar- 
kets of  the  East  adds  materially  to  its 
wealth  and  prosperity.  (See  page  3.) 

The  steamers  generally  stop  at  this 
port  for  several  hours,  and  the  tourist 
should  improve  this  opportunity  to  drive 
through  the  principal  streets  and  see  the 
beauties  of  the  town.  Fort  Street,  Jef- 
ferson, Woodward,  Washington,  and  La- 
fayette Avenues,  are  among  the  hand- 
somest thoroughfares. 

Leaving  Detroit,  we  pass  “ Belle  lle^'^  a 
small  island  at  the  head  of  the  river,  and 
soon  see  the  broad  waters  of  Lake -St. 
Clair  spread  out  before  us. 

ILialie  dsifii*,  a link  in  the 
great  chain  of  lakes,  is  25  miles  long,  and 
about  the  same  distance  from  shore  to 
shore.  It  is  naturally  shallow,  and  at  the 
upper  end,  where  the  river  St.  Clair  emp- 
ties, large  deposits  of  sand  have  been 
made,  known  as  the  “ Flats.”  These,  for 
a long  while,  greatly  impeded  navigation, 
but  the  difficulty  has  been  lately  over- 
come by  the  construction  of  a canal,  which 
will  be  described  presently.  Around  the 
shores  of  the  lake  are  large  fields  of 
rice,  where  immense  flocks  of  wild-ducks 
swarm,  geese  are  found  in  the  shoot- 
ing-season, and  the  waters  teem  with  fish. 

Ble  Sa  IPecIie,  commonly  known 
as  “ Peach  Island,”  near  the  lower  end  of 
the  lake,  belongs  to  Canada.  It  was  at 
one  time  the  home  of  the  celebrated  In- 
dian chief  Pontiac,  Parkman,  in  his 
“ History  of  the  Conspiracy  of  Pontiac,” 
says  : “ Pontiac,  the  Satan  of  this  forest- 
paradise,  was  accustomed  to  spend  the 
early  part  of  the  summer  upon  a small 
island  at  the  opening  of  Lake  Sf.  Clair.” 
Another  author  says : “ The  king  and 
lord  of  all  this  country  lived  in  no  royal 
state.  Ilis  cabin  was  a small,  oven- 
shaped structure  of  bark  and  rushes. 
Here  he  dwelt  with  his  squaws  and  chil- 
dren ; and  here,  doubtless,  he  might  often 
have  been  seen  carelessly  reclining  his 
naked  form  on  a rush-mat  or  a bear-skin, 
like  an  ordinary  Indian  warrior.” 

138 


TJae  St.  Clair  Flats  Slaip- 
Canal,  constructed  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  General  Crane,  of  the  United 
States  Engineer  Corps,  extends  through 
the  flats,  and  is  a blessing  to  every  sailor, 
ship-owner  and  traveller  who  has  occasion 
to  pass  from  the  lower  to  the  upper  lakes. 
It  is  a straight  channel  cut  through  the 
shifting  sands,  having  at  the  very  lowest 
stages  of  the  water  a depth  of  13^  feet, 
and  ordinarily  from  14  to  15  feet.  It  is 
300  feet  wide  between  the  faces  of  the 
dikes  ; for  the  excavated  earth  has  been 
deposited  on  either  side,  forming  banks 
or  dikes  of  a width  of  40  feet  between 
the  lake  and  the  canal  faces.  The  pro- 
tections, which  are  of  wood,  are  more 
than  three-fourths  below  the  surface  of 
the  water,  and  the  portion  above  water 
has  been  subjected  to  a process  of  “ car- 
bolic acidizing,”  which  is  considered  a 
sure  preventive  of  rot.  Outside  of  them, 
sand  has  been  emptied  by  the  dredges, 
which  has  taken  a natural  slope  of  1 foot 
in  20.  Willows  and  other  trees  are  to  be 
planted  on  the  embankments,  which  are 
also  to  be  handsomely  sodded.  This  will 
not  only  help  in  preserving  the  banks, 
but  will  add  greatly  to  their  beauty.  The 
dikes  only  rise  5 feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  water,  but  this  is  considered  to  be 
sufficient.  They  are  so  constructed  that 
16  or  20  feet  of  water  can  be  obtained  in 
the  channel,  whenever  desired,  by  dredg- 
ing, and  23  feet  can  be  had  by  diminish- 
ing the  width  at  the  bottom  to  225  feet. 
This  canal,  which  is,  in  fact,  a river  con- 
ducted through  a lake,  is  justly  regarded 
as  a triumph  of  engineering  skilL 

St.  Clair  !Kiver. — This  is  really 
a strait  through  which  the  waters  of  Lake 
Huron  make  their  way  toward  the  At- 
lantic Ocean.  It  is  48  miles  long,  and 
has  a descent  of  15  feet  in  that  distance, 
which  gives  a current  of  from  3|-  to  4 
miles  an  hour,  with  a depth  varying  from 
40  to  60  feet.  The  scenery  along  St. 
Clair  is  beautiful,  the  banks  on  either 
side  being  well  cultivated  or  covered  with 
forest-trees.  The  towns  along  the  river, 
for  the  most  part,  are  prosperous  and 
important  places,  connecting  with  Detroit 
by  daily  lines  of  steamers. 

Clair,  Micli.  (56  miles 
from  Detroit),  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Fine  River ^ is  the  capital  of  Saint  Clair 


Port  Huron.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I.  [Mackinaw  Strait. 


County.  It  is  a place  of  some  importance, 
on  account  of  its  lumber-trade  and  manu- 
factures. On  the  border  of  the  town  are 
the  ruins  of  Fort  Si.  Claii\  built  as  a pro- 
tection against  the  Indians. 

Sutherland^  Ont.^  is  a small  village  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  above 
are  Moore  and  Fromejield^  small  Canadian 
villages. 

S3iai*oia,  is  a port 

of  entry  at  the  mouth  of  Black  River^ 
which  runs  through  a rich  pine-region, 
and  down  which  are  floated  the  logs 
which  supply  the  numerous  saw-mills  at 
this  point.  It  is  an  incorporated  city,  is 
well  built,  and  has  a large  trade.  During 
the  season  of  navigation  it  is  connected 
by  daily  lines  of  steamers  with  Detroit, 
Saginaw,  and  the  principal  lake  and  river 
ports.  jPort  Huron  is  to  be  the  terminus 
of  a railway  now  building  to  connect  with 
the  Detroit  & Milwaukee  Railway  at  Owas~ 
so^  making  an  air-line  across  the  State.  The 
Detroit  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way of  Canada  passes  through  the  city. 

Out. 9 a port  of  entry  op- 
posite Port  Huron,  and  connected  with 
it  by  ferry,  is  a place  of  active  business, 
being  the  terminus  of  the  Main  Line  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada^ 
and  of  a Branch  of  the  Great  Western 
Railway. 

Fort  Gratiot  (two  miles  above 
Port  Huron)  is  a United  States  military 
post,  being  garrisoned  by  two  or  three 
companies  of  troops.  It  was  built  in 
1814,  and  has  no  strength  as  a fortifi- 
cation, consisting  merely  of  a stockade 
around  the  barracks  built  for  the  troops ; 
but,  commanding  the  entrance  to  Lake 
Huron,  it  is  of  no  small  importance  as  a 
strategic  point.  The  village  adjoining 
the  military  reservation  has  gained  con- 
siderable commercial  importance  since 
the  building  of  the  railway,  as  all  freight 
and  passengers  are  ferried  across  the 
river  at  this  point,  and  all  steamers  in 
the  lake-trade  stop  here.  This  village 
and  Port  Huron  seem  destined  to  grow 
together  as  one  large  city  when  the  rail- 
ways now  building  and  projected  open 
to  settlement  the  large  tract  of  country 
which  must  find  here  its  natural  outlet. 

Point  £dTvm*d9  Out.,  directly 
opposite  Port  Gratiot,  is  to  Sarnia  what 
Port  Gratiot  is  to  Port  Huron. 


Below  Port  Huron  and  Sarnia  the  river 
gradually  becomes  broader,  and  the  cur- 
rent more  rapid,  until  it  reaches  a mile  in 
wddth,  and  runs  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an 
hour.  It  then  grows  narrower,  between 
Port  Gratiot  and  Point  Edward  being 
only  about  a thousand  feet  wide,  the  in- 
creased velocity  of  the  current  being  so 
noticeable  that  the  descent  of  the  water 
can  be  seen  from  the  wharves  on  either 
side.  The  steamer  stops  for  the  last  of 
the  passengers,  some  of  whom  come  by 
rail,  and  starts  anew  up  Lake  Huron. 

Fulce  Murou  lies  between  the 
43d  and  46th  degrees  of  north  latitude, 
is  250  miles  in  length  from  the  head  of 
the  St.  Clair  River  to  the  Straits  of  Mack- 
inaw, and  100  miles  in  width.  It  is  5 '74 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and 
varies  in  depth  from  100  to  ^750  feet. 
Georgian  Bay^  on  the  northeast  side  of 
the  lake,  is  very  large,  and  lies  entirely 
within  the  Dominion  of  Canada — Saginaw 
Bay.,  on  the  southwest,  being  within  the 
limits  of  the  State  of  Michigan.  Tawas 
Bay  is  a good  harbor  on  the  northwest 
side  of  Saginaw  Bay.  Thunder  Bay  is 
farther  north,  and  the  Thunder-Bay  Isl- 
ands are  at  its  mouth.  The  stormiest 
part  of  the  lake  is  between  Saginaw  and 
Georgian  Bays,  where  the  wind  often 
sweeps  with  terrific  violence.  But  few 
islands  are  seen,  and  the  traveller  who 
has  never  been  at  sea  can  form  some 
idea  of  what  an  ocean  is,  for  during  a 
portion  of  our  voyage  no  land  can  be  seen 
even  from  the  masthead ; the  boundless 
expanse  of  water,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  a distant  sail,  stretching  on  every 
side. 

Except  on  special  excursion-trips,  the 
Lake  Superior  steamers  do  not  touch  at 
Mackinaw,  but  it  may  be  well  to  notice 
these  beautiful  straits  and  their  islands, 
as  there  are  many  of  these  excursion- 
trips  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  There 
is  a daily  line  of  steamers  from  Colling- 
wood.,  on  Georgian  Bay,  one  of  the  ter- 
mini of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to 
Chicago.,  touching  at  Mackinaw. 

Fbe  Stra.it  oi*  Maclcinaw 
connects  the  waters  of  Lakes  Michigan 
and  Huron.  It  is  about  40  miles  in 
length,  and  from  6 to  20  miles  wide,  com- 
prising, in  its  limits,  the  island  of  Macki- 
naw and  several  others ; the  largest  of 
139 


Mackinaw  Island*] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mackinaw  Is**and 


all  being  Bois  Blanc  Island,  The  en- 
trance to  the  strait,  always  beautiful,  is 
particularly  so  in  calm  weather,  soon 
after  sunrise  or  just  before  sunset.  Then 
the  effect  of  the  light  and  shade  is  charm- 
ing; the  islands,  duplicated  in  the  clear 
water,  seem  floating  on  the  surface ; the 
water  in  one  place  reflecting  the  rays  of 
the  sun  with  dazzling  brilliancy,  in  an- 
other unrippled  by  a single  zephyr,  hav- 
ing the  appearance  of  an  undulating  mir- 
ror ; while  Mackinaw,  at  first  a mere 
speck  in  the  distance,  seems  to  rise  from 
the  horizon  until  it  expands  into  a huge 
circular  emerald.  Presently  we  see  the 
fort,  the  cliff,  the  village  at  its  foot,  the 
bold  face  of  “ Robinson’s  Folly,”  and 
finally  the  wigwams  of  the  Indians  upon 
the  beach  come  into  view. 

Macltiiiaw  IslaiRd,  Micli., 
is  300  miles  northwest  of  Detroit,  and 
350  miles  north  of  Chicago.  It  is  about 
three  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide.  It 
is  an  old  military  post  of  the  United 
States,  as  well  as  a delightful  and  popu- 
lar place  of  summer  resort.  The  waters 
surrounding  the  island  teem  with  fish  of 
delicious  flavor,  being  as  clear  as  those 
of  Lake  Superior,  and  the  most  minute 
objects  can  be  discerned  at  a surprising 
depth.  The  fisherman  sees  the  fish  toy- 
ing with  his  bait,  and  the  active  little 
Indian  boys  on  the  piers  are  always  ready 
to  dive  for  coins  the  visitor  may  throw 
into  the  water  for  them.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  the  pretty  village  at  the  foot  of  the 
cliff  are  mainly  dependent  on  their  fish- 
ing-nets and  seines  for  support,  and  upon 
the  money  spent  every  summer  by  tour- 
ists, there  being  several  good  hotels  and 
several  stores  where  Indian  curiosities, 
petrifactions,  agates,  photographs,  and 
other  mementos  of  the  place,  are  offered 
for  sale.  Boats  for  pleasure-excursions 
are  always  to  be  had,  and  the  usual  ac- 
cessories of  a summer  resort,  such  as 
bowling-alleys,  billiard-rooms,  etc.,  etc., 
are  provided  at  the  best  hotels. 

A few  minutes’  walk  from  the  landing 
brings  us  to  the  foot  of  the  clift'  from 
which  a steep  road  leads  up  to  Fort 
Mackinaw^  200  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lake.  The  fort,  which  is  garri- 
soned by  a company  of  United  States 
troops,  overlooks  the  village  and  beauti- 
ful harbor.  In  the  rear  of  and  about 
140 


1 00  feet  above  this  fort  are  the  ruins  of 
old  Fort  Holmes,,  and  in  their  immediate 
neighborhood,  320  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lake,  the  highest  point  on  tiie 
island,  stands  a signal-station.  The  view 
from  this  elevation  is  very  fine.  The 
Islands  of  8l,  Martin  are  exactly  north, 
and  beyond  them,  emptying  into  the  bay, 
are  Pine  and  Carp  Rivers,  To  the  north- 
west, on  the  main-land,  are  two  curious 
rocks,  called  by  the  Indians  the  “ Sitting 
Rabbits.'''  Turning  toward  the  east,  Lake 
Huron  is  spread  out  before  us,  and,  chan- 
ging our  field  of  observation  toward  the 
south,  we  have  Boh  Blanc  Island  and 
Round  Island.  Directly  south  are  the 
Straits  of  Mackinaw.,  at  this  point  but  four 
miles  wide ; and  on  the  south  shore  are  the 
ruins  of  “ Old  Fort  Mackinaw^'"'  destroyed 
by  the  Indians  in  1763.  Turning  again 
we  see,  about  four  miles  distant.  Point 
Ignace.,  the  most  southerly  point  of  the 
eastern  portion  of  the  “ Upper  Peninsu- 
la ” of  Michigan,  and  with  this  point  we 
complete  our  circuit.  When  the  moon 
is  out  in  its  full  beauty,  an  indescribable 
charm  is  imparted  to  these  views. 

The  island  is  covered  with  a thick 
growth  of  hard  wood.  The  rides,  drives, 
walks,  and  picnic  grounds,  are  delightful 
and  are  kept  in  excellent  order.  Nuts  and 
wild  berries  abound.  Among  the  most 
attractive  and  interesting  places  upon 
the  island  we  may  mention  the  follow- 
ing: 

Arched  Rock.,  situated  upon  the  eastern 
side  of  the  island,  is  a feature  of  great 
interest.  The  cliffs  attain  a height  of 
nearly  one  hundred  feet,  and  at  the  base 
are  strewed  numerous  fragments  which 
have  fallen  from  above.  The  Arched 
Rock  has  been  excavated  in  a projecting 
angle  of  the  limestone  cliff,  and  the  top 
of  the  span  is  about  ninety  feet  above  the 
lake-level,  surmounted  by  about  ten  feet 
of  rock.  At  the  base  of  a projecting 
angle,  which  rises  like  a buttress,  is  a 
small  opening,  through  which  an  explorer 
may  pass  to  the  main  arch,  where,  after 
clambering  over  the  steep  slope  of  debris 
and  the  projecting  edges  of  the  strata,  he 
reaches  the  brow  of  the  cliff. 

The  beds  forming  the  summit  of  the 
arch  are  cut  off  from  direct  connection 
with  the  main  rock  by  a narrow  gorge 
of  no  great  depth.  The  portion  sup- 


Mackinaw  Island.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I.  [Point  du  Tour. 


porting  the  arch  on  the  north  side,  and 
the  curve  of  the  arch  itself,  are  compara- 
tively fragile,  and  cannot  long  resist  the 
action  of  rains  and  frosts,  which,  in  this 
latitude,  and  on  a rock  thus  constituted, 
produce  great  ravages  every  season. 
The  arch,  which  on  one  side  now  con- 
nects this  abutment  with  the  main  cliiT, 
must  soon  be  destroyed,  as  well  as  the 
abutment  itself,  and  the  whole  be  pre- 
cipitated into  the  lake.  The  highest 
point  of  the  arch  is  140  feet  above  the 
water. 

The  Lover’^s  Leap  is  a rock  about  one 
mile  west  of  the  village,  having  a vertical 
height  of  145  feet.  A solitary  pine-tree 
was  formerly  a conspicuous  object  upon 
this  cliff.  The  Indian  legend,  to  which 
the  place  owes  its  name,  is  that  a young 
squaw,  standing  on  this  point  waiting  for 
the  return  of  her  lover  from  battle,  saw 
the  warriors  carrying  his  dead  body  to 
the  island,  and  in  her  grief  threw  herself 
into  the  lake. 

LobinsorCs  FoUy^  a vertical  cliff  east 
of  the  village,  is  128  feet  high.  It  is 
named  after  a Scotchman,  who,  delighted 
with  the  situation,  built  himself  a small 
house  on  its  verge.  One  night  the  house 
was  blown  over  the  edge,  and  Mr.  Robin- 
son, being  within,  paid  for  his  folly  with 
his  life. 

The  Sugar-Loaf  is  a solitary  limestone- 
rock  rising  from  the  plateau  upon  which 
it  stands.  It  is  shaped  like  a huge  loaf 
of  white  sugar,  and  contains  a good-sized 
cave.  Its  summit  is  284  feet  above  the 
lake. 

The  DeviVs  Kitchen  is  a curious  cave. 

The  British  Landing  is  on  the  island, 
opposite  the  village.  It  is  a favorite 
place  for  picnics,  and  received  its  name 
from  being  the  point  where  the  British 
troops  landed  when  they  captured  the 
island  in  1812.  There  is  a never-failing 
spring  of  water  here,  which  even  in  mid- 
summer is  too  cold  to  drink  with  com- 
fort, though  it  is  said  that  in  the  severest 
winter  weather  it  is  never  frozen. 

There  are  other  places  of  interest  on 
the  island,  and  many  pleasant  excursions 
can  be  made  to  fishing  and  hunting 
grounds  in  the  vicinity.  The  tourist  can 
find  out  all  about  these  by  making  in- 
quiry at  the  hotels. 

Leaving  Mackinaw  to  return  to  the 


direct  route  to  Lake  Superior,  the  steamer 
passes  the  mouth  of  St.  Martini  Bay^ 
famed  for  its  fishing,  Great  and  Little  St. 
Martin’s  Islands.,  and  after  a trip  of  36 
miles  reaches  Point  du  Tour.,  where  the 
direct  route  is  resumed,  305  miles  from 
Detroit. 

fill  TToiir,  the  most  east- 
erly point  of  the  main-land  of  the  Upper 
Peninsula  of  Michigan,  is  at  the  mouth 
of  Saint  Mary^s  River.  The  light-house 
is  at  the  extremity  of  this  place,  but 
the  village  is  upon  the  river  about  two 
miles  above.  Drummond  Island,  opposite 
the  point,  now  belongs  to  the  United 
States,  the  boundary-line  running  to  the 
east  of  it.  It  is  a large  island,  and  was 
once  fortified  by  the  British.  The  ruins 
of  the  fort  are  still  to  be  seen. 

The  Saint  Mary's  River,  a remarkably 
beautiful  stream,  62  miles  long,  is  the  only 
outlet  to  Lake  Superior.  It  contains 
about  50  islands  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  and  a large  number  belonging  to 
Canada.  The  steamer  enters  the  “ west 
channel,”  which  is  about  one  mile  broad 
and  100  feet  deep,  although  just  off  the 
light-house  it  is  only  50  feet  deep.  A 
description  of  the  scenery  of  this  river 
can  be  given  only  in  the  most  general 
terms.  The  stream  is  a succession  of 
expansions  and  contractions  in  width, 
and  is  beautifully  dotted  with  evergreen- 
covered  islands. 

Patagannissing  Bay,  some  8 or  10  miles 
wide,  extends  from  Drummond  to  Saint 
Joseph’s  Island,  and  as  far  north  as  the 
main-land,  where  it  receives  the  waters 
of  the  north  channel.  It  is  covered  with 
islands,  most  of  which  are  within  the  lim- 
its of  the  United  States.  The  river  really 
passes  through  this  bay  to  reach  Lake 
Huron,  or  it  may  be  more  accurate  to  say 
that  the  river  empties  into  this  bay,  and 
that  it  in  turn  communicates  with  Lake 
Huron  by  the  straits,  one  of  which  is  the 
“ west  channel.” 

Round  or  Pipe  Island  is  4 miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  river.  Its  general  ap- 
pearance is  indicated  by  its  name. 

Saint  Joseph's  Island,  10  miles  from 
De  Tour,  belongs  to  Canada.  It  is  20 
miles  long  and  15  miles  broad,  being  sep- 
arated from  the  main-land  by  the  north 
channel.  It  is  fertile,  and  in  part  culti- 
vated, the  other  portions  being  covered 
141 


Saut  Ste.  Marie.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Mary’s  Ship  Canal. 


by  a heavy  growth  of  forest-trees.  A 
fort  formerly  stood  upon  the  island,  and 
the  ruins  are  yet  to  be  seen  in  sailing  up 
the  river.  Two  miles  above  the  lower 
point  of  Round  Island  is  Lime  Island^  the 
channel  between  the  two  forming  the 
boundary-line  between  the  United  States 
and  Canada.  On  the  main-land,  on  the 
American  side,  is  a small  settlement  called 
Carletonville. 

Mud  Lake^  a part  of  the  river,  at  Sail- 
ors* Encampment  Island^  20  miles  from 
Lake  Huron,  is  4 miles  wide.  It  is  about 
10  miles  long,  and  receives  its  name  from 
being  so  shallow  that  the  muddy  bottom 
is  easily  stirred  up. 

Sugar  Island^  30  miles  from  Lake 
Huron,  is  above  St.  Joseph’s  Island,  and 
separated  from  it  by  the  main  channel 
which  marks  the  boundary-line.  It  is 
situated  at  the  spot  where  the  north 
channel  diverges.  Two  small  rocky  isl- 
ands belonging  to  Canada  here  command 
both  channels.  Church's  Landing^  upon 
this  island,  is  a stopping-point  for  passing 
steamers.  Large  quantities  of  raspberry 
jam,  which  brings  a high  price  and  finds 
a ready  sale  in  the  lake  cities,  are  shipped 
from  here. 

The  JSfebish  Rapids  have  a current  of 
five  miles  an  hour,  but  are  no  impediment 
to  steamboat  navigation. 

Lake  George^  immediately  above  the 
rapids,  like  Mud  Lake,  is  an  arm  of  the 
river.  It  is  five  miles  wide,  and  about 
eight  in  length.  The  channel  was  at  one 
time  so  shallow  as  to  be  almost  unnavi- 
pable  for  large  steamers,  but  it  has  been 
improved  by  dredging. 

Garden  River  Settlement  is  a village  of 
the  Chippewa  Indians  on  the  Canadian 
side  of  the  river,  midway  between  Lake 
George  and  the  Saut,  being  about  10  miles 
from  each.  Fishing,  hunting,  and,  in  the 
season,  gathering  wild  berries,  are  the 
principal  occupations  of  the  Indians  in 
the  place.  Little  Lake  George  and  Pointe 
aux  Piers  are  passed,  and  at  the  distance 
of  55  miles  the  Saut  is  reached,  7 miles 
below  Wakka  Bay. 

Ste.  Marie,  Midi.  (300 
miles  from  Detroit),  was  settled  by  French 
Jesuits  in  1668.  It  is  the  capital  of 
Chippewa  County,  and  is  situated  at  the 
foot  of  the  rapids  which  have,  until  re- 
cently, been  an  impassable  barrier  to  navi- 

143 


gation.  The  fisheries,  the  fur-trade,  and 
the  entertainment  of  summer  tourists,  are 
the  principal  means  of  support  of  the 
inhabitants.  The  town  is  a small  place, 
and,  during  a great  part  of  the  year,  is 
cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the  world  on  ac- 
count of  the  coldness  of  the  climate.  If 
a railway  is  ever  opened  to  this  point, 
there  will  soon  be  a large  city  here,  the 
location  being  a very  favorable  one  for 
commerce.  There  is  a village  of  the  same 
name  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river 
directly  opposite.  Fort  Brady  is  a gar- 
risoned post  of  the  United  States,  com- 
manding the  channel  at  the  Saut. 

Xlie  Ste.  Marie  Itapids  are 
very  picturesque,  the  river  falling  20  feet 
within  a mile.  They  can  be  descended 
in  a canoe,  and  any  one,  desiring  to  try 
this  exciting  sport,  can  always  find  In- 
dians ready  to  make  the  trip  with  him. 
The  red  gentlemen  are  very  expert  with 
the  paddle,  and,  if  the  passenger  will  only 
sit  quietly  where  he  is  told,  he  will  be  in 
no  danger. 

In  the  summer  of  1854,  according  to 
the  Report  of  Foster  and  Whitney,  made 
to  Congress  in  1856,  “an  extraordinary 
retrocession  of  the  waters  took  place  at 
the  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  The  river  here  is 
nearly  a mile  in  width,  and  the  depth  of 
water  over  the  sandstone  rapids  is  about 
three  feet.  The  phenomena  occurred  at 
noon  ; the  day  was  calm  but  cloudy  ; the 
water  retired  suddenly,  leaving  the  bed 
of  the  river  bare,  except  for  the  distance 
of  about  twenty  rods  where  the  channel 
is  deepest,  and  remained  so  for  the  space 
of  an  hour.  Persons  went  out  and  caught 
fish  in  the  pools  formed  in  the  rocky  cavi- 
ties. The  return  of  the  waters  was  sud- 
den, and  presented  a sublime  spectacle. 
They  came  down  like  an  immense  surge, 
roaring  and  foaming,  and  those  who  had 
incautiously  wandered  into  the  river-bed 
had  barely  time  to  escape  being  over- 
whelmed.” 

T'lie  ^aint  Mary’s  Slaip  Ca- 
nal, which  has  been  constructed  around 
the  Rapids,  belongs  to  the  State  of  Michi- 
gan, and  is  one  of  the  most  complete  and 
important  in  the  country,  being  the  only 
outlet  for  the  mineral  products  of  the 
Lake  Superior  region,  and  the  commerce 
of  that  great  body  of  water. 

This  canal  was  constructed  for  the 


Waiska  Bat.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I.  [Lake  Superior. 


State  by  a company  which  expended 
about  $1,000,000  in  the  work,  and  re- 
ceived as  compensation  ^750, 000  acres 
of  land,  which  was  selected  during  the 
building  of  the  canal,  by  agents  appoint- 
ed by  the  Governor  of  Michigan ; 39,- 
000  acres  were  selected  in  the  iron  region 
of  Lake  Superior,  147,000  acres  in  the 
copper  region,  and  the  balance,  564,000 
acres,  in  the  Lower  Peninsula. 

The  following  figures  will  give  some 
idea  of  the  magnitude  of  this  work, 
which  was  commenced  in  the  spring  of 
1853,  the  first  steamer,  the  Illinois,  pass- 
ing through  it  on  the  18th  of  June,  1855  : 

Length  of  canal,  5,548  feet  = 1 mile 
304  feet. 

Width  at  top,  115  feet;  at  water-line, 
100  feet ; at  bottom,  64  feet. 

The  depth  of  the  canal  is  12  feet. 

A slope  wall  on  the  sides  of  the  canal 
is  4,000  feet  in  length. 

There  are  two  locks,  each  350  feet  in 
length. 

Width  of  locks,  70  feet  at  top,  611- 
feet  at  bottom. 

The  walls  are  25  feet  high — 10  feet 
thick  at  bottom. 

Lift  of  upper  lock,  8 feet ; lower  do., 
10  feet ; total  lockage,  18  feet. 

Lower  wharf,  180  feet  long ; 20  feet 
wide.  Upper  wharf,  830  feet  long ; from 
16  to  30  feet  wide. 

There  are  3 pairs  of  folding-gates,  each 
40  feet  wide. 

Upper  gate,  17  feet  high ; lower  gate, 
24  feet  6 inches  high. 

There  are  also  upper  and  lower  caisson- 
gates,  used  for  shutting  off  the  water 
from  the  canal. 

The  amount  of  lumber,  timber,  and 
iron,  used  in  the  building  of  the  piers 
and  gates,  was  enormous.  There  were 
103,437  lbs.  of  wrought-iron  used  in  the 
gates,  and  38,000  lbs.  cast-iron. 

"Waislta  !@ay,  six  miles  above  the 
head  of  the  rapids,  is  reached  after  pass- 
ing a beautiful  stretch  of  the  river.  It 
is  called  by  some  a widening  of  the  river ; 
by  others  a part  of  the  lake ; but,  be  that 
as  it  may,  it  is  in  reality  a picturesque 
bay  about  five  miles  long,  terminated  by 
Iroquois  Point  on  the  American,  and 
Gros  Cap  on  the  Canadian  side,  between 
which  the  steamer  passes. 

XoiiqiistiBiciioxi  25  miles 


long,  and  about  the  same  distance  in 
width,  is  rather  a contraction  of  the 
lake  near  its  outlet  than  a bay.  On  the 
American  shore  the  elevation  of  the  land 
is  not  remarkably  great,  but  on  the  Cana- 
dian side  it  is  from  800  to  1,000  feet. 
The  bay  conta.ins  Parisien  and  other  isl- 
ands belonging  to  Canada.  The  termi- 
nation, about  40  miles  above  the  Saut,  is 
marked  on  the  south  by  Whitefish  Point 
and  light-house,  and  on  the  north  by  Ma- 
mains  Point. 

Stiperior,  the  largest 
body  of  fresh  water  in  the  known  world, 
extends  from  84°  30'  to  92°  30'  west 
longitude,  and  from  46°  30'  to  49°  north 
latitude,  being  460  miles  long  and  170 
miles  broad  in  its  widest  part,  having  an 
average  width  of  85  miles,  a circuit  of 
1,750  miles,  and  an  estimated  area  of 
32,000  square  miles.  It  is  600  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  from  which 
it  is  1,500  miles  distant  by  the  way  of 
the  other  lakes  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  It  is  800  feet  deep  in  its  deepest 
portion — the  bottom  there  being  200  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  ocean.  It  receives 
its  waters  from  about  200  rivers  and 
streams  draining  an  area  of  100,000 
square  miles.  It  contains  a number  of 
islands  in  the  eastern  and  western  por- 
tions, but  very  few  in  the  central.  The 
most  important  of  these  are  lie  Royal^ 
The  Apostles.,  and  Grand  Island.,  belong- 
ing to  the  United  States,  and  Michipico- 
ton.,  He  St.  Ignace^  and  Pie  Islands^  be- 
longing to  Canada. 

The  early  French  Jesuit  fathers,  who 
first  explored  and  described  this  great 
lake,  and  published  an  account  of  it  in 
Paris,  in  1636,  speak  of  its  shores  as 
resembling  a bended  bow,  the  northern 
shore  being  the  arc,  the  southern  shore 
the  cord,  and  Keweenaw  Point,  pro- 
jecting from  the  southern  shore  to  near 
the  middle  of  the  lake,  the  arrow. 

The  coast  of  Lake  Superior  is  mostly 
formed  of  rocks  of  various  kinds,  and 
of  different  geological  groups.  With  the 
exception  of  sandy  bars  at  the  mouth  of 
some  of  the  rivers  and  small  streams,  the 
whole  coast  o-f  the  lake  is  rock-bound ; 
and  in  some  places,  but  more  particularly 
on  the  north  shore,  mountain  masses 
of  considerable  elevation  rear  themselves 
from  the  water’s  edge,  while  mural  preci- 
143 


Pictured  Rocks.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Pictured  Rocks. 


pices  and  beetling  crags  oppose  them- 
selves to  the  surges  of  this  mighty  lake, 
and  threaten  the  unfortunate  mariner, 
who  may  be  caught  in  a storm  upon  a 
lee-shore,  with  almost  inevitable  destruc- 
tion. 

The  waters  are  of  surpriamg  clearness, 
are  very  cold,  and  filled  with  the  most 
delicious  fish. 

The  wealth  of  the  mineral  deposits  by 
which  the  lake  is  surrounded  is  incalcu- 
lable. 

Once  having  passed  White-Fish  Pointy 
with  its  “sand-dunes”  or  hills,  and  its 
tall  light-house,  the  steamer  usually  takes 
a course  for  Point  au  Sahle^  60  miles  be- 
yond, keeping  in  sight  of  the  Michigan 
shore,  which  here  presents  a succession 
of  steep  sand-hills,  varying  from  300  to 
600  feet  in  height. 

1"  Ii  e F*ictwrecl  20 

miles  farther,  and  ^786  miles  from  Buf- 
falo, are  a wonderful  exhibition  of  the 
denuding  effect  of  water,  combined  with 
the  stains  imparted  by  certain  minerals. 
They  extend  for  a distance  of  about  five 
miles,  rising  in  most  places  vertically 
from  the  water’s  edge  to  a height  of  from 
60  to  200  feet,  there  being  no  beach 
whatever.  When  the  weather  will  per- 
mit, steamers  run  near  enough  to  give 
passengers  a good  view  of  these  great 
curiosities ; but,  if  the  tourist  can  spare 
the  time,  his  best  way  is  to  stop  at  Grand 
Island,  and  to  visit  them  in  a small  boat, 
for,  to  be  able  to  appreciate  their  extraor- 
dinary character,  it  is  necessary  to  coast 
along  the  cliffs  and  pass  beneath  the 
Grand  Portal,  As  we  cannot  afford  the 
space  required  to  give  such  a detailed 
description  of  these  rocks  as  they  de- 
serve, we  must  content  ourselves  with 
briefly  alluding  to  them  in  order  from 
east  to  west;  the  visitor  from  Grand 
Island  approaches  them  in  the  opposite 
direction. 

The  Chapel  is  a vaulted  apartment  in 
the  rock,  30  or  40  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lake.  An  arched  roof  of  sand- 
stone rests  on  four  columns  of  rock  so  as 
to  leave  .an  apartment  about  40  feet  in 
diameter,  and  about  the  same  in  height. 
It  has  been  provided  by  Nature  with  a 
pulpit  and  altar,  and  if  fashioned  by  the 
liands  of  man  could  scarcely  have  been 
more  appropriately  arranged.  On  the 
144 


west  side,  and  close  by,  Chapel  River 
falls  into  the  lake  over  a rocky  ledge  10 
or  15  feet  in  height. 

The  Grand  Portal,  which  appears  next, 
is  the  most  imposing  feature  in  the  series. 
The  general  disposition  of  the  arched 
openings  which  traverse  this  great  quad- 
rilateral mass  may,  perhaps,  be  made  in- 
telligible without  the  aid  of  a ground- 
plan.  The  main  body  of  the  structure 
consists  of  a vast  mass  of  a rectilinear 
shape,  projecting  out  into  the  lake  about 
600  feet,  .and  presenting  a front  of  300 
or  400  feet,  and  rising  to  a height  of 
about  200  feet.  An  entrance  has  been 
excavated  from  one  side  to  the  other, 
opening  out  into  large  vaulted  passages 
which  communicate  with  the  great  dome, 
some  300  feet  from  the  front  of  the  clitt*. 
The  Grand  Portal,  which  opens  out  on 
the  lake,  is  of  magnificent  dimensions, 
being  about  100  feet  in  height,  and  168 
feet  broad  at  the  water-level. 

The  distance  from  the  verge  of  the 
cliff  over  the  arch  to  the  water  is  133 
feet,  leaving  33  feet  for  the  thickness  of 
the  rock  above  the  arch  itself.  The  ex- 
treme height  of  the  cliff  is  about  50  feet 
more,  making  in  all  183  feet. 

Sail  Rock  is  about  a mile  to  the  west 
of  the  Grand  Portal,  and  consists  of  a 
group  of  detached  rocks.  It  owes  its 
name  to  its  striking  resemblance  to  the 
jib  and  mainsail  of  a sloop  when  spread 
— so  much  so  that  when  viewed  from  a 
distance,  with  a full  glare  of  light  upon 
it,  while  the  cliff  in  the  rear  is  left  in  the 
shade,  the  illusion  is  perfect.  The  height 
of  the  block  is  about  40  feet.  Passing 
to  the  westward,  we  skirt  the  cliffs  worn 
into  thousands  of  strange  forms,  colored 
deep  brown,  yellow  and  gray,  bright  blue, 
and  green.  They  are  arranged  in  verti- 
cal and  parallel  bands  extending  to  the 
water’s  edge,  and  are  brightest  when  the 
streams  are  full  of  water. 

Miner's  Castle,  6 miles  from  the  Chapel, 
and  just  west  of  the  mouth  of  Miner's 
River,  is  the  western  end  of  the  Pictured 
Rocks.  It  resembles  an  old  turreted  cas- 
tle with  an  arched  portal.  The  height 
of  the  advanced  mass  in  which  the  Goth- 
ic gateway  may  be  recognized  is  about 
70  feet,  that  of  the  main  wall  forming 
the  background  being  about  140  f#et. 
For  the  next  ten  miles  avc  pass  along  a 


[Negauxee.  , 


Grand  Island.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


series  of  rocky  promontories  extending 
as  far  as  Grand  Island, 

Sslasid,  125  miles  from 
tlie  Saut^  is  10  miles  long  and  5 wide. 
It  is  a wild  and  romantic  place,  the  sand- 
stone cliffs  being  worn  into  the  most  cu- 
rious and  fantastic  shapes.  The  fishing 
around  the  island  is  excellent. 

Manislmg’,  formerly  called  Grand 
Island  City^  is  on  Grand  Island  Bay ^ which 
is  6 miles  long,  and  from  2 to  4 miles 
wide,  completely  land-locked,  deep,  and 
easy  of  access.  There  are  several  dwell- 
ings, an  hotel,  and  a pier  at  this  place, 
which,  from  its  proximity  to  the  Pictured 
Rocks,  and  the  fine  fishing,  boating,  etc., 
in  the  vicinity,  promises  to  become  a 
popular  place  of  summer  resort.  Near 
here  are  the  Schoolcraft  Iron  Works. 
Miner'' s Point  and  Monument  Pock^  nat- 
ural curiosities,  may  be  visited  in  small 
boats. 

Marquette,  Micla.  (835  miles 
from  Buffalo,  and  170  from  the  Saut), 
settled  in  1849,  has  a large  harbor,  well 
protected  from  northeast  winds.  The 
city  is  well  built,  and  carefully  laid  out. 
There  are  four  immense  piers  running  out 
into  the  bay,  which  are  constructed  so 
that  the  ore  from  the  mines  can  be  trans- 
ferred from  the  cars  to  “ pockets,”  and 
thence  to  the  boats  without  handling,  the 
transfer  being  effected  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  is  employed  in  loading  vessels 
with  grain.  An  ingenious  contrivance  is 
in  use  for  preventing  the  fall  of  the  ore 
injuring  the  boats.  There  are  iron 
manufactures  of  various  kinds  at  this 
point.  The  water  at  Marquette  is  bad, 
but  this  drawback  will  cease  to  exist 
when  the  proposed  works  for  forcing  up 
the  lake-water  into  the  city  are  con- 
structed. The  place  naturally  has  great 
attractions  for  the  invalid  and  tourist, 
in  its  healthy,  invigorating  atmosphere, 
beautiful  walks  and  drives,  fine  scenery, 
boating,  and  fishing.  Persons  spending 
several  weeks  at  Marquette  can  pass  the 
time  very  agreeably  in  making  excursions 
in  the  neighborhood  to  Grand  Island  and 
the  Pictured  Rocks^  to  Carp  River^  Dead 
River^  and  Chocolat  River.  There  is 
trout-fishing  at  all  these  places.  Another 
excursion  is  by  the  Marquette  Ontona- 
yon  Railway  to  Champion  on  Lake  Michl 
garni  where  there  are  good  boating,  hunt- 


ing, and  fishing,  but  poor  accommoda- 
tions for  travellers.  The  distance  is  32 
miles,  and  the  time  of  the  trip  is  about 
three  hours.  A visit  may  also  be  made 
to  the  iron  regions.  W e shall  have  some- 
thing to  say  about  this  presently. 

If  the  tourist  is  an  enthusiastic  sports- 
man, and  would  try  his  skill  at  the  best 
fishing  and  hunting  grounds  in  the 
Northern  Peninsula,  and  at  the  same 
time  take  a four  or  five  days’  trip  of  ad- 
venture through  an  unbroken  wilderness, 
let  him  leave  all  his  baggage  at  Mar- 
quette; before  starting,  consult  some 
veteran  “backwoodsman,”  and,  accom- 
panied by  two  guides,  take  a canoe  at 
Champion^  cross  Lake  Michigami^  follow 
Michigami  River  to  the  Memminee  River ^ 
and  so  reach  Green  Bay.  The  route  is 
through  a rough,  wild  country,  full  of 
deer  and  other  game ; the  river  is  broad, 
and  has  several  rapids  and  falls,  the  de- 
scent in  all  being  1,000  feet.  The  river 
passes  through  a rich  iron  district,  as  yet 
undeveloped.  Another  similar  trip,  tak- 
ing about  four  days,  is  down  the  Esca- 
nawba  River.  In  September,  1870,  when 
the  writer  was  at  Marquette,  “ Cameron  ” 
and  a half-breed,  named  “ Jack  Repeat,” 
were  considered  the  best  guides. 

Tlie  Maarqiaette  SroM  "Ke- 
g;iom  lies  at  the  back  of  Marquette, 
from  which  the  mines  are  distant  from 
12  to  30  miles ; they  being  on  an  elevated 
ridge  known  as  the  Iron  Mountain^ 
which  is  from  700  to  800  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  lake.  The  tourist  can  visit 
this  region  either  by  the  Marquette  <Sc 
Ontonagon  Railway^  which  has  its  outlet 
at  Marquette,  or  by  the  Peninsula  Divis- 
ion of  the  Chicago  efi  Northwestern  Rail- 
way. Both  roads  connect  at  Negaunee, 
and  run  in  a continuous  line  across  the 
Northern  Peninsula  from  Marquette  to 
Escanawha  on  Green  Bay. 

The  grade  from  Marquette  to  Negau- 
nee is  so  steep  that  in  winter  this  part  of 
the  road  cannot  be  used  even  by  loco- 
motives. 

Negaunee  (13  miles  from  Mar- 
quette), a dreary-looking  place,  900  feet 
above  the  level  of  Lake  Michigan,  is  the 
centre  of  the  iron  region,  as  now  de- 
veloped. It  contains  the  Pioneer  Furnace, 
the  largest  in  the  Upper  Peninsula,  and 
daily  reduces  thirty  tons  of  ore  to  pure 
145 


Xegaunee.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Houghton. 


pig-iron,  using  at  present  only  the  Jack- 
son  ore.  From  this  point  radiate  railroads 
to  the  Jackson,  the  Lake  Superior,  the 
Washington,  the  Iron  Cliff,  the  Tilden, 
the  New  York,  the  Cleveland,  the  Fos- 
ter, and  other  mines,  and  it  is  hence 
that  the  mineral  products  of  the  country 
are  transported,  either  to  Marquette  or 
Escanawba,  for  shipment.  The  region  is 
so  rich  in  iron  that  the  embankments  of 
the  roads  are  of  ore  that  would  yield 
forty-five  per  cent,  of  metal.  Many  of  the 
cuts  are  through  hills  of  pure  ore.  Any 
thing  yielding  less  than  sixty  per  cent,  of 
metal  is  termed  lean^  and  is  avoided  if 
possible,  but,  if  necessary  to  be  removed, 
it  is  piled  up  out  of  the  way,  as  not  worth 
the  cost  of  transportation.  If  the  richest 
ore,  however,  is  ever  exhausted,  it  is  pos- 
sible that  this  lean  will  some  day  be  con- 
sidered of  value. 

The  Iron  Mines ^ as  they  are  called, 
might  more  properly  be  termed  iron 
quarries^  as  the  ore,  reaching  to  the  very 
surface  of  the  ground,  is  almost  universal- 
ly dug  or  quarried  out  of  the  side  of  the 
mountain  precisely  as  a stone  is  obtained 
for  building.  In  some  of  the  older  mines, 
however,  tunnels  and  shafts  are  run,  ap- 
parently more  for  the  purpose  of  facili- 
tating the  loading  of  the  cars  than  to  get 
at  the  ore.  The  amount  of  capital  in- 
vested in  these  mines  is  immense,  and 
the  returns  for  the  investment  almost  in- 
credible. 

The  mines  are  all  alike,  and  a visit  to 
one  will  suffice  for  all.  The  Jackson  is 
one  of  the  richest  in  the  State.  It  has 
five  openings  of  quarries  connected  with 
each  other  by  tunnels.  Two  of  these 
latter  are  mere  passages,  but  the  third  is 
a loader^  running  some  50  to  60  feet  be- 
low the  bottom  of  the  mines,  and  con- 
nected with  them  by  four  shafts,  fitted 
up  with  chutes^  down  which  the  ore  is 
thrown.  The  cars  passing  through  the 
tunnel  are  filled  from  these  so  rapidly 
that  from  this  one  loader  150  car-loads 
are  taken  daily.  By  this  arrangement, 
and  the  style  of  the  ore  docks,  all  han- 
dling of  it  is  dispensed  with  from  the  time 
the  miner  loads  it  in  the  mine,  until  it  is 
removed  from  the  vessel  at  its  destina- 
tion. The  deposits  of  iron  in  this  mine, 
as  in  all  the  others  opened,  are  lenticular^ 
or  lens-shaped,  and  do  not  riin  in  strati- 
146 


fied  veins,  the  intervening  spaces  between 
the  lenses  being  filled  with  minerals  of 
various  kinds,  and  with  ore  of  an  inferior 
grade. 

In  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  there  arc  10 
furnaces  run  entirely  with  Lake  Superior 
ore,  in  Lower  Michigan  there  are  four, 
and  in  Upper  Michigan  there  are  nine, 
besides  four  which  are  in  course  of  con- 
struction. The  ore  is  taken  to  these  fur- 
naces, reduced  to  pig-iron,  and  then  sold 
to  the  founderies  and  rolling-mills.  There 
are  11  different  locations,  or  mines,  as 
they  are  called,  each  one  having  from 
two  to  nine  openings.  The  supply  is  only 
limited  by  the  number  of  men  employed 
in  excavating,  and  the  means  of  transpor- 
tation. 

Resuming  our  journey,  we  make  no 
stops  until  reaching  Portage  Lake,  pass- 
ing on  our  way  Granite  Island  (12  miles 
from  Marquette) ; Stanard's  Rock,  a very 
dangerous  island  of  granite  rock,  50  or 
60  ffiet  long,  10  feet  wide,  and  four  feet 
above  the  water;  the  Huron  Islands,  a 
picturesque  group ; Huron  Bay  and  Point 
Abbey e,  and  cross  Keweenaw  Bay  to  the 
Entry,  leaving  HAnce  at  the  head  of  the 
Bay  well  to  the  south. 

jPortag’e  Entry  (80  miles  from 
Marquette)  was  originally  a narrow, 
crooked  channel,  leading  from  Keweenaw 
Bay  into  Portage  Lake  and  very  difficult 
of  navigation;  but  in  1861  the  Portage 
Lake  and  River  Improvement  Company 
was  chartered,  and  a straight  cut,  1,400 
feet  long,  100  feet  wide,  and  12  feet  deep, 
was  made,  the  channel  of  the  river  being 
straightened  and  deepened  so  that  the 
largest  steamers  could  enter  without  dif- 
ficulty, and  land  at  the  towns  on  Portage 
Lake. 

Moug’lutoii,  Micla*  (14  miles 
from  the  Entry),  the  capital  of  Houghton 
County,  was  first  settled  in  1854,  and  was 
incorporated  as  a village  in  1861.  It  is 
built  upon  a steep  side-hill,  and  from  the 
water  has  an  attractive  appearance.  It 
is  a flourishing  place,  being  the  centre  of 
the  rich  copper  deposits  of  the  Upper 
Peninsula.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  are 
several  of  the  largest  and  most  productive 
mines,  but  none  of  them  are  now  in  full 
operation,  owing  to  the  low  value  of 
copper.  Those  which  are  being  worked 
can  be  visited  very  easily.  They  are 


Hancock.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I.  [Portage  Lake. 


very  different  from  the  iron-mines,  being 
entered  by  deep  shafts,  and  in  all  respects 
conforming  to  the  conventional  idea  of  a 
mine. 

Houghton  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant 
places  on  the  lake  at  which  to  pass  the 
summer.  The  Douglas  House^  kept  by 
Sheldon  & Allen,  is  the  largest  and  best 
hotel  on  Lake  Superior.  The  drinking- 
water  in  all  parts  of  the  town  is  excellent, 
the  sailing  and  rowing  are  perfectly  safe, 
and  within  three  miles  are  five  or  six 
well-stocked  trout-streams.  Salmon  Trout 
River^  9 miles  distant,  is  generally  con- 
sidered to  be  the  best  trout-stream  in 
the  Upper  Peninsula.  The  roads  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Houghton  are  good,  and 
some  of  the  drives  are  delightful. 

MancoclA,  Midi.,  is  a small 
place  opposite  Houghton,  and  may  al- 
most be  regarded  as  a portion  of  it. 

I*ortag-e  might  justly  be 

called  Portage  Strait^  as  the  canal,  which 
will  be  described  presently,  has  restored 
to  it  its  original  character.  In  digging 
this  channel  indubitable  evidences  have 
been  found  that  Portage  Lake  was  once 
an  arm  of  Lake  Superior,  cutting  off  Ke- 
weenaw  Pointy  which  was  then  a large 
island.  It  is  about  20  miles  long,  from 
half  a mile  to  two  miles  in  width,  with 
an  average  depth  of  50  feet.  On  either 
side  the  banks  are  covered  with  dense 
forests,  a farm-house  with  wide  clear- 
ings and  a wood-dock  occasionally  vary- 
ing the  scene,  for  the  demand  for  lumber 
is  so  great  in  this  region  that  every 
owner  of  land  becomes  a wood-merchant, 
and  none  is  burned  to  get  it  out  of  the  way, 
as  is  common  in  most  new  settlements. 

I^ortage  ILialce 
is  open  for  steamers,  but  is  not  quite 
completed.  It  is  miles  long,  100  feet 
wide,  and  13  feet  deep.  The  sides  are 
sheathed,  the  entire  length,  with  piles 
and  heavy  planks,  which  will  prevent  all 
washing  of  the  bank,  or  filling  in  of  the 
channel.  In  1860,  Congress  appropriated 
200,000  acres  of  land  for  the  construc- 
tion of  this  canal,  and  in  1864  a company 
to  prosecute  the  work  was  chartered  by 
the  State  of  Michigan,  but  active  labor 
was  not  commenced  until  186Y,  the  com- 
pany undertaking  the  work  for  a land- 
grant  of  400,000  acres  of  mineral  and 
pine  lands. 


Commencing  at  the  Portage-Lake  end 
of  j:he  canal,  where  the  lake  itself  is  nar- 
rowed down  to  200  yards  in  width,  the 
excavation  was  made  through  an  alluvial 
deposit,  thickly  grown  up  with  grasses 
and  aquatic  plants,  but  soon  serious  diffi- 
culties were  experienced  in  crossing  a 
tamarac  swamp,  2,000  feet  long,  the  roots 
of  the  trees  extending  10  feet  into  the 
ground.  The  ordinary  dredges  would 
not  answer  at  all,  and  it  was  necessary 
to  construct  one  of  extraordinary  size 
and  strength,  with  a serrated  edge  to  the 
bucket.  Immediately  after  the  swamp, 
a sand-bank,  extending  to  Lake  Superior, 
was  encountered.  It  was,  in  some  places, 
over  30  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake, 
and  the  work  of  cutting  through  it  was 
enormous ; steam-shovels  were  used  to 
dig  it  down  to  the  water-level,  and 
dredges  were  then  applied  at  each  end, 
working  toward  each  other ; a railroad, 
track  was  run  on  each  side  of  the  canal, 
and  the  earth  removed  in  cars,  by  steam- 
power,  while  that  removed  by  the  dredges 
was  put  into  barges  and  towed  out  into 
the  lake,  where  it  was  sunk.  During  the 
season  of  1870,  the  company  used,  in 
the  construction  of  the  canal,  5 steam- 
dredges,  2 steam-excavators,  3 tow-boats, 
2 locomotives,  4 pile-drivers,  60  cars,  and 
75  horses,  and  employed  over  500  men 
They  have  their  own  shops  for  the  manu- 
facture and  repair  of  tools  on  the  spot, 
and  have  built  a good-sized  village,  in 
which  are  a store  and  a jail.  A pier,  or 
breakwater,  to  run  out  into  the  lake  for 
about  a quarter  of  a mile,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  canal,  has  been  commenced. 
It  is  built  of  stone  and  wood,  the  “ cribs  ” 
being  made  on  shore,  and  floated  into 
position,  where,  after  being  filled  with 
stone,  they  are  sunk.  A stone-quarry, 
on  the  lake-shore,  within  two  miles  of 
the  mouth  of  the  canal,  gives  employ- 
ment to  a large  number  of  men,  at  sea- 
sons of  the  year  when  work  on  the  canal 
has  to  be  suspended. 

At  the  Lake  Superior  outlet  is  a fine 
site  for  a city,  and  it  is  believed  that  one 
must  soon  spring  up  there,  as  the  com- 
pany intends  constructing  on  the  spot  a 
large  dry-dock  and  a machine-shop  for 
the  buiding  and  repairing  of  vessels. 

On  October  16,  1870,  the  two  immense 
dredges  from  the  opposite  ends  of  the 
147 


Keweenaw  Point.] 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [Twelve  Apostles’  Islands. 


canal  met,  and  the  waters  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior and  of  Portage  Lake  were  united. 

This  canal  cuts  off  the  tedious  and 
dangerous  circuit  of  Keweenaw  Pointy 
saving  24  hours  in  the  time,  and  about 
120  miles  in  the  distance  of  travel.  It 
will  be  the  course  taken  by  all  steamers 
not  bound  for  one  of  the  ports  on  the 
Point. 

For  the  sake  of  making  our  description 
of  the  Lake  Superior  trip  the  more  com- 
plete, we  will  retrace  our  way  to  Portage 
Entry,  and  make  the  circuit  of  the  south- 
westerly shore. 

Keweenaw  S*oin.t  is  about  60 
miles  long,  and  from  10  to  25  miles 
broad,  and  contains  the  great  copper  de- 
posits, and  much  of  the  silver-ore  of  the 
Lake  Superior  region.  The  copper,  in 
some  places,  is  so  pure  that  it  is  cut  out 
with  cold-chisels. 

Sjae  S^a  Helle  is  a beautiful  lake, 
having  its  outlet  in  BHe  Gris  Bay^  near 
the  end  of  Keweenaw  Point.  It  is  en- 
tered through  a canal  a mile  in  length, 
and  is  in  a rich  copper  region.  Upon  its 
shore  is  a small  village,  named  Mendota^ 
which  contains  a copper-smelting  estab- 
lishment, and  is  the  outlet  for  several 
mines.  A railroad  from  this  place  to 
Eagle  River  is  projected.  A few  miles 
west  of  Lac  La  Belle  are  Mount  Houghton 
and  Mount  Boheraid. 

Mamitoia.  at  the  extrem- 

ity of  Keweenaw  Point,  is  Y miles  long 
and  4 broad.  It  is  marked  by  a light- 
house. 

Copper  lffarl>or  (315  miles  from 
Saut  Ste.  Marie)  is  at  the  extreme  end  of 
Keweenaw  Point,  and  is  very  difficult  of 
approach,  though,  when  it  has  been  suc- 
cessfully entered,  it  is  safe  and  commo- 
dious. The  extensive  copper-mines  in 
the  vicinity  are  not  worked,  and  the 
place  will  probably  remain  inactive  until 
it  is  found  profitable  to  open  them. 

lEag’lc  SIar1>or  (16  miles  from 
Copper  Harbor)  is  the  shipping-port  for 
the  product  of  several  copper-mines. 

Eagle  Hiver  (341  miles  from  Saut 
Ste.  Marie)  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a 
stream  of  the  same  name.  It  is  the  port 
from  which  the  copper  from  the  cele- 
brated “ Cliff,”  and  other  mines  in  the 
vicinity,  is  shipped. 

Oiitoiiagoa,  Tfiiicli*  (400  miles 
148 


from  Saut  Ste.  Marie),  is  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  and,  when 
the  mines  in  the  neighborhood  are  work- 
ing, does  a large  business.  It  is  west  of 
the  Portage  Jjake  Canal^  and  is  conse- 
quently benefited  by  that  great  improve- 
ment. A railroad  is  now  finished,  con- 
necting Ontonagon  with  Marquette,  and 
two  other  lines,  one  from  Milwaukee,  and 
the  other  from  Appleton,  Wis.,  on  the 
Chicago  d:  Northwestern  Railway are  pro- 
jected, which  will  have  Ontonagon  for 
their  northern  terminus. 

S^orcttipiiie  Mountsain  is  some 
15  or  20  miles  west  of  Ontonagon.  It  is 
1,300  feet  high,  and  is  a very  prominent 
object. 

mie  Twelve  Apostles’  Ssl- 
a-sidls,  twenty-seven  in  number,  are  a 
large  and  beautiful  group,  some  70  miles 
west  of  Ontonagon.  The  clay  and  sand- 
stone cliffs  have  been  worn  into  strange 
shapes  by  the  action  of  the  water.  The 
islands  are  almost  covered  _with  fine  for- 
est-trees. 

The  following  description  of  the 

Twelve  Apostles  ” is  from  Owen’s 

Geological  Survey  of  Wisconsin 

“ At  a distance  they  appear  like  main- 
land, with  deep  bays  and  points,  gradu- 
ally becoming  more  elevated  to  the  west- 
ward. ‘ lie  au  Chene'  or  Oak  Island^ 
which  is  next  the  Detour  (or  main-land), 
is  a pile  of  detached  drift,  250  or  300  feet 
high,  and  is  the  highest  of  the  group. 
Madeline^  ‘ Wau-ga-ba-me  ’ Island,  is  the 
largest  (on  which  lies  La  Pointe),  being  13 
miles  long,  from  northeast  to  southwest, 
and  has  an  average  of  three  miles  in 
breadth.  ‘ Muk-quaw  ’ or  Bear  Island^ 
and  ‘ Eshquagendeg  ’ or  Outer  Island.,  are 
about  equal  in  size,  being  six  miles  long 
and  two  and  a half  wide. 

“ They  embrace  in  all  an  area  of 
about  400  square  miles,  of  which  one- 
half  is  water.  The  soil  is  in  some  places 
good,  but  the  major  part  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  clear  and  cultivate.  The  causes 
to  which  I have  referred,  as  giving  rise 
to  thickets  of  evergreens  along  the 
coast  of  the  lake,  operate  here  on  all 
sides,  and  have  covered  almost  the  whole 
surface  with  cedar,  birch,  aspen,  hem- 
lock, and  pine.  There  are,  however, 
patches  of  sugar-tree  land,  and  natural 
meadows. 


La  Pointe.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[Duluth. 


“ The  waters  around  the  islands  afford 
excellent  white  fish,  trout,  and  siskowit, 
which  do  not  appear  to  diminish  after 
many  years  of  extensive  fishing  for  the 
lower  lake  markets.  For  trout  and  sis- 
kowit, which  are  caught  with  a line  in 
deep  water,  the  best  ground  of  the  neigh- 
borhood is  off  Bark  Point  or  ‘ Point 
Ecorce  ’ of  the  French.  Speckled  or 
brook  trout  are  also  taken  in  all  the  small 
streams. 

“ That  portion  of  the  soil  of  the 
islands  fit  for  cultivation  produces  po- 
tatoes and  all  manner  of  garden  vegeta- 
bles and  roots  in  great  luxuriance.  In 
the  flat,  wet  parts,  both  the  soil  and  cli- 
mate are  favorable  to  grass  ; and  the 
crop  is  certain  and  stout.  Wheat,  oats, 
and  barley  do  well  on  good  soil  when  well 
cultivated. 

“ In  regard  to  health,  no  portion  of  the 
continent  surpasses  the  Apostle  Islands. 
In  the  summer  months  they  present  to 
the  residents  of  the  South  the  most  cool 
and  delightful  resort  that  can  be  ima- 
gined, and  for  invalids,  especially  such  as 
are  affected  in  the  lungs  or  liver,  the 
uniform,  bracing  atmosphere  of  Lake  Su- 
perior produces  the  most  surprising  and 
beneficial  effects.” 

Eja  IPoimte,  77  miles  west  of 
Ontonagon,  was  settled  by  French  Jesu- 
its in  1680.  It  is  a fishing-village  on 
the  south  end  of  Madeline  Island^  the 
largest  of  the  “Apostles.”  Apples, 
cherries,  and  similar  fruits,  are  cultivated 
here,  and  wild  fruits  and  berries  are 
found  in  great  abundance. 

Sayliel^,  Wis*,  80  miles  from 
Ontonagon,  is  the  capital  of  La  Pointe 
County,  and  is  upon  La  Pointe  Bay, 
It  has  a safe  and  capacious  harbor, 
tlie  Apostles’  Islands  completely  pro- 
tecting it  from  the  wind.  The  shore 
rises  abruptly,  and  the  town  stands  from 
sixty  to  eighty  feet  above  the  water,  af- 
fording a splendid  view  of  the  bay,  the 
islands,  and  the  lake.  The  projected 
Hudson  Bayfield  Railway  has  been 
surveyed.  This  line  is  to  Hudson,  Wis- 
consin, upon  the  St.  Croix  River,  and 
thence  to  St.  Paul. 

CIia.wa.meg;oii  Hay,  the  en- 
trance to  Bayfield,  forms  a spacious  and 
secure  harbor.  At  its  head,  12  miles 
south  of  Bayfield,  is  Ashland,  15  miles 


east  of  which  Maslceg  River  empties 
into  Lake  Superior.  Ten  miles  still 
farther  to  the  east  is  Mo)dreal  River^ 
which  marks  the  boundary-line  between 
Wisconsin  and  Michigan. 

City,  Wis.,  the  capi- 
tal of  Douglas  County,  is  1,229  miles  from 
Buffalo.  It  was  predicted  to  be  the  great 
city  of  the  Lake  Superior  country,  but  at 
present  there  seems  no  prospect  of  its 
anticipations  being  realized,  Duluth  hav- 
ing proved  the  successful  competitor  for 
the  terminal  station  of  the  raihvays  con- 
verging at  this  end  of  the  lake.  Superior 
is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Bay 
of  Superior^  which  is  formed  by  Supe- 
rior and  Minnesota  Points,  and  which 
wdth  Duluth  Bay  extends  eight  miles 
from  Superior  to  Duluth.  The  bay  is 
three-quarters  of  a mile  wide,  is  deep, 
and  is  entirely  land-locked.  It  receives 
the  waters  of  the  St.  Louis  and  Nemadji 
Rivers.  Superior  City  was  laid  out  in 
1854,  and  for  three  years  increased  rap- 
idly in  population,  but,  unless  something 
happens  to  give  it  a new  impetus,  it  is 
not  likely  to  become  ever  any  thing  more 
than  a small  fishing-village. 

IMiaa.,  1,235  miles  from 
Buffalo,  is  named  after  Captain  John  Du 
Luth,  a French  officer,  who  visited  Lake 
Superior  in  1679.  It  is  picturesquely 
located  on  the  hill-side. 

To  obtain  a good  view  of  Duluth  and 
its  vicinity,  the  tourist  should  ascend  the 
hill  to  some  point  beyond  the  houses,  or 
should  go  up  into  the  steeple  of  the  Pres- 
byterian church  and  look  toward  the 
south.  At  his  feet  he  will  see  the  bus- 
tling little  city  full  of  life  and  energy, 
bearing  everywhere  the  marks  of  its  re- 
cent creation  ; to  the  extreme  right  are 
St.  Louis  Bay  and  River^  separated  from 
Duluth  Bay  by  Rice's  Point,  and  from 
the  Bay  of  Superior  by  Connor's  Point, 
between  which  the  river  and  bay  empty 
into  Duluth  and  Superior  Bays ; next 
comes  the  island-dotted  sheet  of  water 
stretching  from  Duluth  to  Superior,  and 
called  at  the  northern  end  Duluth,  and  at 
the  southern  end  Superior  Bay,  Direct- 
ly south  eleven  miles  is  seen  Superior 
City,  while  to  the  eastward  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach  stretches  Lake  Superior, 
from  which  the  bays  are  separated  by  a 
long,  narrow  thread  of  sand  and  peb- 
149 


Duluth.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[N.  Shore  of  L.  Superior. 


bles  pierced  by  two  ch<annels.  One  of 
these  latter,  the  natural  communication 
at  Superior,  is  called  the  “Entry;”  the 
other,  at  Duluth,  is  an  artificial  strait, 
opened  since  1870.  The  two  points  of 
land  are  known  respectively  as  “ ^upe^ 
rior'’’’  and  Minnesota  Points^  A large 
breakwater,  about  a mile  from  Minne- 
sota Point,  running  some  distance  into 
the  lake,  is  building  by  the  Govern- 
ment, as  a protection  to  the  outer  har- 
bor, which  is  nov/  only  defended  by  the 
long  pier  of  the  railroad  company.  When 
the  breakwater  is  completed,  and  the 
bays  dredged,  Duluth  will  have  a dock- 
age front  of  20  miles.  Four  large  piers 
have  already  been  built ; two  of  them, 
respectively  500  and  700  feet  long,  pro- 
ject into  the  lake,  the  one  being  in 
Duluth  Bay,  and  the  other  in  St.  Louis 
Bay.  The  climate  of  Duluth  is  salubri- 
ous, the  reports  as  to  the  intensity  of 
the  cold  having  been  greatly  exagger- 
ated; the  mean  temperature  in  winter 
is  16°  Fahr.  Transports  came  into  the 
harbor  January  4,  1870;  the  first  lake- 
boat  arrived  May  5th,  and  the  last  left 
November  22d,  showing  that  navigation 
was  not  exceptionally  impeded  by  the 
temperature. 

The  sudden  growth  of  Duluth  has 
been  wonderful.  On  the  1st  of  January, 
1869,  the  whole  town  site,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a small  piece  of  ground  on 
either  side  of  Superior  Street,  between 
First  and  Fourth  Avenues,  east,  was  a 
dense  and  unbroken  forest ; while  in 
April,  1871,  the  amount  of  land  cleared 
and  improved  within  the  city  limits 
amounted  to  nearly  two  thousand  acres. 
Three  crooked  cow-paths  were  the  only 
thoroughfares  from  one  end  of  the  town- 
plot  to  the  other;  now,  there  are  nine 
miles  of  streets  well  graded,  and  two 
of  these  partly  macadamized,  besides 
four  miles  of  plank  sidewalks  of  an  aver- 
age width  of  ten  feet.  Then,  the  build- 
ings of  Duluth  did  not  number  much, 
if  any,  more  than  a dozen,  and  they 
certainly  were  not  worth  ten  thousand 
dollars  all  told  ; now  there  are  fully  six 
hundred,  some  of  which  cost  five,  ten, 
fifteen,  twenty,  forty-five,  and  even  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  each, 
and  since  that  time  there  has  been  ex- 
160 


pended  here,  as  tables  of  statistics  show, 
more  than  two  millions  and  a half  of  dol- 
lars in  buildings  and  in  substantial  im- 
provements. Then,  there  was  not  a 
dry-goods  nor  provision  store  in  Duluth, 
and  the  supplies  were  purchased  in  Su- 
perior, and  brought  across  the  bay  in 
birch-bark  canoes  in  summer  and  in 
dog-trains  in  winter ; now  there  are 
mercantile  and  business  houses  whose 
aggregate  sales  during  the  year  1870 
amounted  to  nearly  $5,000,000,  and 
the  freight  received  at  and  shipped 
from  Duluth  during  the  eight  months 
ending  December  31,  1870,  amounted 
to  over  70,000  tons.  Then  there  were 
no  railroads,  but  now  the  city  is  the 
lake  terminus  of  two  roads — the  Lake 
Superior^  leading  to  St.  Paul,  and  the 
great  JShrihern  Pacific^  upon  which  the 
track  is  laid  to  a point  on  the  Mis- 
souri River  in  Dakota  420  miles  west  of 
Duluth. 

The  population  at  the  time  the  cen- 
sus of  1870  was  taken  was  3,500,  and 
the  inhabitants  were  of  a better  class 
than  is  usually  found  in  a new  city. 
There  are  six  churches,  and  more  build- 
ing, two  newspapers,  and  good  private 
and  public  schools.  There  are  two  com- 
fortable hotels — one,  the  Clark  House, 
being  large,  well  furnished,  and  well 
kept.  There  are  also  some  smaller  ho- 
tels, and  several  good  private  boarding- 
houses. 

We  here  leave  the  steamer  and  con- 
tinue our  journey  as  far  as  St.  Paul  by 
land ; but,  as  the  tourist  may  wish  to 
complete  the  circuit  of  Lake  Superior, 
we  will,  before  leaving  Duluth,  give  a 
brief  notice  of  some  of  the  points  of  in- 
terest on  the  “ North  Shore.” 

'FBie  Nortli  ^Iiore  of 
^aperior,  except  to  a few,  is  an  un- 
known region,  and  only  at  a few  scat- 
tered points  is  inhabited.  The  lake- 
steamers  in  their  summer  excursion-trips 
return  from  Duluth  to  Saut  Ste.  Marie  by 
way  of  the  north  shore,  to  enable  passen- 
gers to  obtain  a glimpse  of  some  of  its 
wonders ; but,  if  the  tourist  desires  to 
visit  any  number  of  the  many  places  of 
interest  along  the  coast,  he  must  hire  a 
boat,  and  two  or  three  experienced  men 
as  a crew.  For  the  convenience  of  any 


Encampment  River.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I.  [Fort  William. 


of  our  readers  who  may  wish  to  make 
such  a voyage,  we  give  a table  of 


PLACES  ON  NOETIt  SHORE  OP  LAKE  STTPEKIOE. 


LANDINGS. 


I.IIL3S. 


Duluth,  Minn. 

Lester  River 

Kassabika  River 

French  River  (Copper  Mines) 

Buchanon 

Knife  River  (Copper  Mines) 

Burlington 

Stewart’s  River 

Encampment  River  and  Island 

Split  Rock  River 

Beaver  Bay,  N.  lat.  4T“  12',  W.  long.  91° 

Palisades 

Baptism  River 

Little  Marais 

Manitou  River 

Two-Island  River 

Temperance  River 

Poplar  River 

Grand  Portage,  Indian  trading  post,  IS”. 

lat.  47“  50',  W.  Ion.  90° 

Isle  Royal,  attached  to  Michigan, 

Pigeon  River,  boundary  between  the 

United  States  and  Canada 

Pie  Island,  700  feet  high 

Welcome  Island 

Mouth  Kaininistiquia  River, 

Fort  William,  Canada,  K.  lat.  4S°  23',  W. 

long.  89°  27' 

Thunder  Bay,  80  miles  long. 

Thunder  Cape,  1,350  feet  high 

Black  Bay 

Point  Porphyry 

Entrance  to  Neepigon  Bay 

Bte.  Ignace  Island  (Silver  and  Copper 

Mines) 

Slate  Islands 

Pic  Island 

Peninsula  Harbor 

Pic  River  and  Harbor 

Otter  Island,  Head,  and  Cove 

Michipicoton  Island,  800  feet  high 

Michipicoton  Harbor  and  River,  H.  lat. 

47°  56',  W.  Ion.  85°  06' 

Cape  Gargantua 

Leach  Island 

Lizard  Islands 

Montreal  Island  and  River 

Mica  Bay  (Copper  Mine) 

Mamainse  Point 


5 

7 

3 

4 
1 

10 

3 

3 

7 

10 

5 
1 

6 
3 

8 

5 

6 

16 


10 

20 

7 


3 

15 

10 

5 

30 

10 

30 

15 

8 

10 

30 

25 


45 

25 

12 

6 

14 

20 

6 


Batchewanaung  Bay  (Fishing  Station). . 10 


Sandy  Islands 4 

Maple  Island 7 

Goulois  Bay  and  Point 8 

Parisien  Island 5 

Gros  Cap,  700  feet  high 10 

Point  aux  Pins 7 

Saut  Ste.  Marie,  Canada 8 


12 

15 

19 

20 
30 
33 
36 
43 
53 
53 
59 
65 
63 
76 
81 
87 

103 


113 

133 

140 


143 

153 

163 

173 

203 

213 

243 

253 

268 

276 

805 

331 

376 

401 

413 

419 

463 

483 

489 

499 

503 

610 

518 

523 

533 

540 

548 


lEncamipmeiit  ISiver 

Minn.,  are  36  miles  from 
Duluth.  The  falls  near  the  mouth  of  the 


river  will  afford  a good  water-power  when 
the  country  becomes  settled.  The  shore 
of  the  lake  is  abrupt,  and  in  some  places 
rises  from  800  to  1,000  feet ; the  water 
is  too  deep  for  vessels  to  anchor.  The 


greenstone  cliffs,  rising  from  200  to  300 
feet  in  this  vicinity,  are  very  attractive. 
This  place  is  noted  for  producing  vio- 
lent fluctuations  of  the  magnetic  nee- 
dle. 

(58  miles)  are 
very  remarkable.  The  rock  rises  from 
the  margin  of  the  lake  to  the  height  of 
over  300  feet,  presenting  vertical  columns 
from  60  to  100  feet  high,  and  from  one 
to  six  feet  in  diameter. 

'Femperance  Kiver,  Minn. 
(81  miles),  is  noted  for  its  falls,  about  half 
a mile  apart.  The  Lower  Fall  is  composed 
of  two  perpendicular  pitches,  presenting 
an  almost  unbroken  sheet  of  water  of 
about  30  feet  descent,  some  200  feet  from 
the  lake. 

Crrand.  Shortage,  Minn.  (103 
miles),  is  an  old  station  of  the  American 
Fur  Company.  The  mountains  rise  boldly 
from  the  water’s  edge,  from  800  to  1,000 
feet  in  height. 

5sle  lioyal,  Micli.,  is  between 
Grand  Portage  and  Keweenaw  Point.  It  is 
45  miles  long  and  from  8 to  12  miles 
wide.  It  is  filled  with  rich  minerals  and 
precious  stones,  affords  good  fishing,  and 
promises  to  be  one  day  a popular  summer 
resort.  The  island  contains  a number  of 
small  lakes,  inlets,  etc.,  and  has  one  large 
body  of  water,  Siskowitt  Lake^  which  has 
no  visible  outlet.  Of  the  five  harbors  of 
Isle  Royal,  the  principal  one  is  Siskowitt 
Bay^  where  is  the  only  settlement  within 
50  miles  of  Eagle  Harbor,  the  nearest 
port  on  the  main-land  of  the  State. 

B^igeon.  Kiver  (113  miles)  is  the 
boundary-line  between  the  United  States 
and  Canada. 

l*ie  Isla.nd[,  Ca.3i.,  700  feet  high, 
in  shape  resembles  a slouched  hat. 

Fort  Willia.511.,  Ca<n«  (143 
miles),  is  an  important  Hudson’s  Bay 
Company  post.  Two  miles  above  the 
post,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Kaminis- 
tiquia  River ^ is  a Roman  Catholic  Mission^ 
consisting  of  a church  and  50  or  60 
houses,  inhabited  by  half-breeds  and  In- 
dians. Near  the  mission  is  McKay" a 
Mountain,  having  an  abrupt  ascent  of 
about  1,000  feet.  The  name  of  the  Ka- 
ministiquia  River  was  given  to  it  by  the 
Chippewa  Indians.  It  signifies  “place 
where  there  are  many  currents.”  Twelve 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  stream  are 
151 


Thunder  Bat.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations. 


rapids,  and  18  miles  farther  is  a fall  of 
200  feet  perpendicular  height. 

'Tlaiaaid-Ci*  IBsay,  into  which  the 
Kaministiquia  empties  itself,  is  about  30 
miles  long  and  from  10  to  15  vride.  On 
the  east  is  Thunder  Cape^  1,350  feet  in 
height.  At  its  summit  is  the  crater  of 
an  extinct  volcano.  The  rock  in  some 
places  is  almost  perpendicular. 

ISiaclc  ISay  (168  miles),  45  miles 
long  and  from  6 to  8 miles  wide,  is  sur- 
rounded by  high  hills,  two  of  which, 
from  their  resemblance  to  a woman’s 
breasts,  are  called  Les  Mamelons. 

Hay  (203  miles),  40 
miles  long,  15  wide,  contains  a number 
of  beautiful  islands.  The  waters  and 
woods  are  full  of  fish  and  game,  and  the 
hills,  which  almost  surround  the  bay,  are 
rich  in  minerals  and  precious  stones. 

Ig'iaace  Igiaiid.  (213  miles), 
I'T  miles  long  and  6 broad,  is  noted  for 
its  silver  and  copper  mines,  its  beautiful 
scenery,  and  the  large  quantities  of  brook- 
trout  which  abound  in  the  streams  and 
small  lakes. 

^late  Sslaiicis  (243  miles)  are  a 
beautiful  group,  of  peculiar  geological 
formation.  The  whole  coast  along  this 
portion  of  the  lake  presents  a succession 
of  fine  harbors. 

Miclaipicotoia.  Island,  Cam. 
(331  miles),  15  miles  long  and  6 broad,  is 
a charming  place.  It  contains  large  de- 
posits of  silver  and  copper,  and  is  indent- 
ed with  beautiful  bays,  on  the  shores  of 
which  agates  and  other  precious  stones 
are  found.  In  the  interior  is  a lake,  en- 
circled by  hills.  Michipicoton  Island  will 
probably  become  a favorite  place  of  sum- 
mer resort. 

MicSiipicotom  Mai*l>oi*  and 

Hiver  (376  miles)  is  the  site  of  a Ro- 
man Catholic  mission,  and  a post  of  the 
Hudson’s  Bay  Company. 

Mamaiiase  Hoiatt,  Cam.  (489 
miles),  is  where  the  Montreal  Company’s 
copper-mine  is  situated.  There  is  a fish- 
ing-station and  a good  harbor  here. 

Carill>om  Sslam^i,  which  is  near 
the  centre  of  the  lake,  belongs  to  Canada. 
It  is  25  miles  south  of  Michipicoton 
Island,  and  is  seen  from  steamers  running 
to  Fort  William. 

We  have  made  our  sketch  of  the 
north  shore  of  Lake  Superior  as  brief  as 
152 


possible,  as  at  present  but  very  few  trav- 
ellers can  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
its  superb  scenery.  When  the  country 
becomes  settled  and  known  it  is  destined 
to  attract  thousands  of  seekers  after 
pleasure  or  health,  and  iis  marvels  will 
then  be  scarcely  less  famous  than  those 
of  the  new  West. 

Having  completed  the  circuit  of  the 
lake,  we  will  resume  our  journey  at  Du- 
luth. 

Stations. — Lake  Superior  & Missis- 
sippi Railway. — Duluth  (connects  with 
steamers  for  all  lake  ports) ; Fond  du  Lac, 
15  miles ; N.  P.  R.  R.  Junction,  24  ; Moose 
Lake,  42;  Kettle  River,  61 ; Hinckley, 
79  (trains  stop  for  meals);  Pine  City, 
90 ; Rush  City,  102  ; North  Branch,  114 ; 
Wyoming  (connects  with  stage  for  Tay- 
lor’s Falls),  126 ; Centerville,  139 ; White 
Bear  Lake,  144 ; St.  Paul  (connects 
with  railways  diverging,  and  with  river 
steamers),  156. 

On  the  22d,  23d,  24th,  25th,  and  26th 
of  August,  1870,  the  opening  of  the  Lake 
Superior  and  Mississippi  Railway  was 
celebrated  at  Duluth  and  St.  Paul  in 
the  most  enthusiastic  manner,  with  torch- 
light processions,  balls,  dinners,  speeches, 
and  all  the  bustle  and  confusion  of  a 
Fourth  of  July  prolonged  five  days.  The 
first  trains  were  run  some  days  previous- 
ly, but  this  formal  opening  was  delayed 
until  the  arrival  of  a large  party  of  stock- 
holders and  other  excursionists  from 
Philadelphia. 

The  country  through  which  the  road 
runs  was  an  unbroken  wilderness,  except 
near  St.  Paul,  where  the  building  ol  the 
road  was  commenced,  and  consequently, 
as  yet,  there  is  nothing  to  describe  in  any 
of  the  stations,  which  are  collections  of 
unpainted  pine  shanties  with  here  and 
there  an  ambitious  two-story  house  of  the 
same  material.  It  is  probable,  however, 
that  a few  years  will  see  thrifty  villages 
all  along  the  route. 

The  line  of  the  road  runs  along  the 
head  of  Duluth  Bay  and  St.  Louis  Bay,  and 
then  up  the  north  bank  of  the  St.  Louis 
River  to  Fond  du  Lac^  which  is  an  old 
Indian  payment  station,  and  was  once 
the  headquarters  of  the  American  Fur 
Company.  This  is  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion upon  the  river,  which  has  a consid- 
erable fall,  furnishing  a good  water-powcj 


St.  Louis  Dalles.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[Centretille. 


at  this  point.  The  road  now  commences 
to  ascend  by  heavy  grades,  and  in  a few 
miles  reaches  the  “ Dalles,”  crossing  the 
river  once  or  twice  and  leaping  several 
ravines  by  splendid  trestle-bridges,  one 
of  which,  85  feet  high,  and  'ZSO  feet  long, 
is  upon  a curve  where  the  grade  is  so 
heavy  that  the  difference  in  the  elevation 
of  the  ends  of  the  bridge  is  plainly  visi- 
ble. The  construction  of  the  first  25 
miles  of  the  road  was  very  expensive, 
serious  natural  diflSculties  having  to 
be  overcome.  The  time  occupied  in 
building  the  entire  road  was  two  years ; 
8,000  men  during  that  time  working  sum- 
mer and  winter.  In  one  place  there  are 
several  miles  of  piling  through  a swamp, 
which  could  only  be  constructed  when 
the  ice  was  strong  enough  to  bear  the 
weight  of  the  pile-drivers,  the  morass  be- 
ing too  dangerous  to  permit  of  the  work 
being  done  during  the  summer  months. 

'File  l>2illes  ©4‘  tBae  St.  ILiOii- 
is  ISiver,  four  miles  long,  are  con- 
sidered as  among  the  great  wonders  of 
American  scenery.  The  traveller  has  the 
fullest  opportunity  of  seeing  them  from 
the  cars,  as  the  track  is  continually  in 
sight  of  the  river  until  it  finally  crosses 
it,  leaving  it  behind  some  25  miles  from 
Duluth.  In  the  distance  of  4 miles  the 
descent  of  the  river  is  400  feet,  the  ap- 
pearance being  rather  that  of  a continu- 
ous rapid  than  a succession  of  falls.  The 
banks  are  almost — and  in  places  quite — 
vertical,  and  the  slate-rocks  through 
w^hich  the  water  forces  its  way  are  rup- 
tured and  twisted  in  every  conceivable 
manner.  In  one  place  they  are  at  right 
angles  to  the  stream,  forming  a dam  over 
which  the  waters  roll  with  a sullen  roar, 
or  through  which  they  force  their  way  by 
one  or  two  narrow  openings  like  sluices, 
gliding  smoothly  and  swiftly  down  an 
inclined  plane  to  the  broken  rocks  be- 
low, where  they  froth  and  boil  and  rise 
in  elouds  of  spray ; then  a few  rods  far- 
ther on  they  will  encounter  other  impedi- 
ments, but  this  time  the  strata  will  be 
thrown  up  parallel  with  the  course  of 
the  river,  and  the  water,  broken  in  a thou- 
sand different  channels,  eddies  and  darts 
along,  a sheet  of  dancing  foam,  over  and 
around  the  sharp,  black  rocks ; and  then 
perhaps  will  come  a short  stretch  of 
smooth  water,  terminated  by  another  fall 


and  a rapid.  The  water  is  colored  by 
the  swamps  from  which  it  is  fed,  so  that 
where  it  is  deep  and  smooth,  it  is  of  a 
deep,  rich  umber,  but  when  shallow  and 
running  swiftly  over  a smooth  bed,  as  at 
the  crest  of  a fall,  it  is  of  a golden  hue 
like  pure  amber  ; and,  again,  when  froth- 
ing and  foaming  it  is  beautifully  white. 
The  effect  of  the  sun  upon  the  river  is 
charming  beyond  description,  and  the 
contrasts  of  color  betw’een  the  forests 
upon  the  banks,  the  naked  slate-rocks, 
and  the  chameleon-hued  waters  of  the 
stream,  are  wonderfully  effective.  It 
seems  a shame  to  mar  the  grandeur  and 
beauty  of  such  scenes  as  meet  the  eye  at 
every  point  of  the  Dalles,  but  the  utili- 
tarianism of  the  day  spares  nothing,  and 
plans  are  on  foot  to  make  the  immense 
power  here  afforded  useful  for  mills,  man- 
ufactories, etc.,  etc. 

Slate- Quarries. — The  immense  depos- 
its of  slate  which  exist  here  are  of  great 
value,  and  a company  is  now  engaged  in 
developing  this  source  of  w^ealth  at 
Thompson^  near  the  junction  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Pailway ^ under  the  di- 
rection of  Mr.  Thomas  Arnold,  formerly 
of  Lancaster,  Pa. 

Wyoming;,  l^linn.  (126  miles 
from  Duluth,  and  80  from  St.  Paul),  is 
near  the  crossing  of  Sunrise  River^  in  the 
heart  of  one  of  the  finest  hunting-regions 
of  the  State.  It  is  6 miles  from  Chisago 
City^  a village  on  a neck  of  land  between 
Green  Lake  and  Chisago  Lake^  both  of 
which  are  noted  for  their  fine  fishing, 
and  the  abundance  of  game  in  the  neigl> 
boring  woods.  The  country  along  this 
road  is,  indeed,  one  net-work  of  lakes  and 
streams  filled  with  fish,  and  surrounded 
by  w^oods,  in  which  game  of  all  kinds  is 
abundant.  Several  picturesque  sheets 
of  water  are  seen  from  the  Vvindows  of 
the  cars. 

Centfreville,  Miaoi.  (139  miles), 
is  situated  on  Rice  Lakes^  4 miles  west 
of  Forest  Lake^  and  3 miles  east  of  Oneka 
Lake^  which  is  almost  circular  in  shape. 
The  village  has  one  hotel,  which  is  a 
great  resort  for  sportsmen.  At  Forest 
Lake^  a lovely  sheet  of  water,  there  is 
also  an  hotel.  White  Bear  Lake,  Bald 
Eagle  Lake,  and  Lake  Phelan,  all  of  which 
lie  along  the  line  of  the  road,  will  be  no- 
ticed in  the  description  of  Saint  Paul, 
153 


St.  Paul.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Paul. 


they  all  being  favorite  resorts  with  the 
people  of  that  city  for  fishing,  picnic, 
and  driving  excursions. 

St*  (156  miles),  the  capital  of 

Minnesota,  and  the  largest  city  in  the 
State,  is  also  the  capital  of  Ramsey  Coun- 
ty. It  is  upon  the  Mississippi  liiver^  at 
the  head  of  navigation,  2,082  miles  from 
its  mouth. 

St.  Paul  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements 
in  the  State.  The  first  recorded  visit  to 
its  site  was  made  by  Father  Hennepin,  a 
Jesuit  missionary,  in  1680.  Eighty-six 
years  afterward,  Jonathan  Carver  came 
there  and  made  a treaty  with  the  Nando- 
wessie  Indians,  in  what  is  now  known  as 
Carver's  Cave, 

The  first  treaty  of  the  United  States  with 
the  Sioux,  throwing  their  lands  open  to 
settlement,  was  made  September  29, 1837, 
and  the  first  claim  was  entered  by  Pierre 
Parent,  a Canadian  voyageur^  who  sold  it 
in  1839,  for  $30.  It  is  the  present  site 
of  the  principal  part  of  the  city.  He  af- 
terward sold  another  claim,  on  which  the 
lower  levee  is  now  located.  In  1840  Ye- 
tal  Guerin,  who  in  1870  was  still  in  St. 
Paul,  and  was  its  oldest  settler,  built  a 
log  house  where  Ingersoll’s  Hall  stands 
at  present ; and  in  the  same  year.  Father 
Gaultier,  a Roman  Catholic  missionary, 
arrived  and  built  a log  church,  which  he 
called  “ St.  Paul’s,”  and  from  that  was 
named  the  future  capital  of  the  State. 

In  the  spring  of  1849,  when  the  Terri- 
tory was  organized,  and  St.  Paul  selected 
as  the  capital,  there  were  only  30  houses 
in  the  place.  In  1838  there  were  only 
three  white  inhabitants.  In  1846,  10; 
in  1848,  about  50;  in  1849,  400;  in 
1850,  1,112;  in  1857,  9,073;  in  1860, 
10,277;  in  1865,  13,110;  in  1870,  20,045. 
The  city  is  peculiarly  situated  at  three 
different  elevations,  the  lowest  being  the 
levee,  and  a stretch  of  bottom-land, 
formed  by  a depression  of  the  cliffs, 
through  which  a small  mill-stream  enters 
the  Mississippi.  The  main  portion  of  the 
place  stands  upon  a plain  which  forms 
the  summit  of  a bluff  of  sand  and  lime- 
stone about  100  feet  above  the  river,  pre- 
senting for  a long  distance  a precipice 
of  white  sandstone,  with  a narrow  beach 
at  the  river’s  edge,  from  which  it  was 
called  by  the  Dakota  Indians  Imminijas- 
ka^  or  White  Rock.  The  third  level  is 
154 


that  of  the  hills  which  form  an  amphi- 
theatre around  three  sides  of  the  city, 
rising  to  the  level  of  the  high  prairie- 
lands.  These  heights  are  occupied  by 
residences. 

The  geological  formation  of  the  city  is 
so  peculiar  as  to  excite  the  wonder  of 
even  unscientific  persons.  To  the  south  of 
Robert  Street  the  soil  is  deep,  sandy,  and 
free  from  stones ; at  Robert  Street  is  a 
quantity  of  bowlders  and  drift,  and  a few 
yards  to  the  north  is  a horizontal  stratum 
of  limestone  reaching  to  the  surface,  and 
underlain  by  the  soft  white  sandstone  of 
the  bluff.  The  upper  layers  of  the  lime- 
stone are  thin,  soft,  and  friable,  but,  at 
from  3 to  4 feet  below  the  surface,  are  so 
thick  and  hard  as  to  answer  for  founda- 
tion walls,  and  at  from  6 to  8 feet  the 
blue  magnesian  limestone  of  which  the 
principal  stores  are  built  is  reached.  For 
several  blocks  every  store  is  built  out  of 
the  stone  obtained  in  digging  or  rather 
blasting  its  cellar.  IngersoWs  Hall  is  one 
of  these  buildings ; the  surplus  stone 
procured  in  quarrying  the  cellar  was  sold 
for  enough  to  pay  the  entire  expense  of 
making  the  excavation.  The  white  sand- 
stone which  hardens  upon  exposure  to 
the  air  is  as  easily  excavated  as  dense 
sand,  and  consequently  there  is  but  little 
expense  in  making  sub-cellars. 

There  are  three  good  hotels  in  St.  Paul. 
The  Merchants'^  which  is  the  nearest  to 
the  depots  and  the  levee,  is  a large 
building  of  blue  magnesian  limestone. 

The  Park  Place^  which  is  back  on  the 
hills,  surrounded  by  trees,  is  a pleasant 
family  hotel. 

The  Metropolitan  IS  on  Third  Street,  in 
the  upper  portion  of  the  city,  having  a 
fine  view  of  the  river.  The  iDuilding  is 
very  handsome,  and  the  interior  arrange- 
ments are  quite  in  keeping  with  the  ex- 
terior. 

The  principal  places  of  amusement  are 
the  Opera-Home  and  Ingersoll  Hall^  each 
seating  about  1,200  persons. 

The  Opera-House,,  which  is  on  Waba- 
shaw  Street,  near  the  corner  of  Third,  is 
in  a brick  building,  which  also  contains 
the  Post-Office.  The  auditorium  is  pret- 
tily fitted  up,  and  the  stage  is  well  sup- 
plied with  scenery  and  mechanical  effects. 
The  building,  etc.,  cost  $50,000. 

Ingersoll  Block,,  comer  of  Third  and 


St.  Paul.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[St.  Paul. 


Wabash  aw  Streets,  is  built  of  blue  mag- 
nesian lirnestone.  The  first  story  con- 
tains stores  and  a bank ; the  second, 
offices  and  the  St.  Paul  Library,  of  about 
4,000  volumes  ; and  the  third  story,  In- 
gersoll  Half,  which  is  used  for  lectures, 
concerts,  etc. 

There  are  18  or  20  churches  in  the 
city,  some  of  them  large  and  handsomely 
finished. 

The  State  Capital^  situated  on  high 
ground,  and  occupying  an  entire  square, 
is  of  brick,  and  is  by  no  means  an  elegant 
building.  It  contains  the  State  offices, 
the  legislative  chambers,  the  State  Law 
Library^  and  the  collection  of  the  State 
Historical  Society,  which  can  be  seen  on 
any  day  between  the  hours  of  10  and  12, 
and  2 and  5 o’clock.  In  the  second 
story  is  a glass  case  of  battle-flags  car- 
ried by  the  Minnesota  regiments  during 
the  civil  war. 

There  are  several  large  public  schools 
in  the  city,  St.  JoseplCs  Roman  Catholic 
Academy^  and  other  private  schools  and 
seminaries.  The  State  Reform  School  is 
near  the  city. 

There  is  a free  hospital  managed  by  the 
Sisters  of  St.  Joseph,  and  a Protestant 
and  a Roman  Catholic  orphan  asylum. 

Several  newspapers  are  published  in 
the  city  ; three  of  them  being  daily.  The 
Pioneer  and  the  Press^  two  of  the  best  in 
the  West,  are  the  organs  respectively  of 
the  Democrats  and  Republicans  of  this 
locality.  The  Press  occupies  with  its 
various  departments  the  whole  of  a large 
stone  building  on  Third  Street.  It  is  a 
very  complete  and  well-managed  estab- 
lishment. 

St.  Paul  Bridge^  1,730  feet  long,  is 
worth  seeing.  It  is  of  wood  resting  upon 
stone  piers,  and  is  an  inclined  plane 
descending  from  the  high  bluff  at  the 
foot  of  W abashaw  Street  to  the  bottom 
lands  of  West  St  Paul.  The  largest 
steamers  can  pass  under  it. 

Carver's  Cave  is  a great  natural  curi- 
osity, near  the  river  in  Dayton’s  Bluff,  at 
the  eastern  side  of  the  city,  below  the 
brewery.  It  is  named  after  Captain  Jon- 
athan Carver,  who,  on  the  1st  of  May, 
1767,  made  a treaty  with  the  Indians  by 
which  was  ceded  to  him  a large  tract  of 
land.  The  treaty,  however,  was  not 
ratified  by  the  government.  Carver  has 


given  a graphic  description  of  the  cave, 
although  in  somewhat  exaggerated 
terras  ; but  as  his  description  has  become 
historical,  and  as  the  cave  is  now  just  as 
he  found  it,  with  the  extra  attraction  of 
containing  a boat  in  which  the  water  can 
be  crossed  and  the  cave  examined,  we 
give  it  as  he  wrote  it : 

‘‘  About  30  miles  below  the  Falls  of 
St,  Anthony,  at  which  1 arrived  the  tenth 
day  after  I left  Lake  Pepin,  is  a remark- 
able cave,  of  an  amazing  depth.  The 
Indians  term  it  Wakan-Teebe  ; that  is, 
the  Dwelling  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The 
entrance  into  it  is  about  10  feet  wide, 
the  height  of  it  5 feet.  The  arch  within 
it  is  near  15  feet  high,  and  about  30  feet 
broad.  The  bottom  of  it  consists  of  fine, 
clear  sand.  About  20  feet  from  the  en- 
trance begins  a lake,  the  water  of  which 
is  transparent,  and  extends  to  an  un- 
searchable distance,  for  the  darkness  of 
the  cave  prevents  all  attempts  to  acquire 
a knowledge  of  it.  I threw  a small  peb- 
ble toward  the  interior  parts  of  it  with 
my  utmost  strength.  I could  hear  that 
it  fell  into  the  water,  and  notwithstand- 
ing it  was  of  so  small  size,  it  caused  an 
astonishing  and  horrible  noise,  that  re- 
verberated through  all  those  gloomy 
regions.  I found  in  this  cave  many 
Indian  hieroglyphics,  which  appeared 
very  ancient,  for  time  had  nearly  covered 
them  with  moss,  so  that  it  was  with  diffi- 
culty I could  trace  them.  They  were  cut 
in  a rude  manner  upon  the  inside  of  the 
walls,  which  were  composed  of  a stone 
so  extremely  soft  that  it  might  be  easily 
penetrated  with  a knife — a stone  every- 
where to  be  found  near  the  Mississippi. 
The  cave  is  only  accessible  by  ascending 
a narrow,  steep  passage  that  lies  near  the 
brink  of  the  river.” 

Fountain  Cave.,  near  the  stone  brewery, 
just  above  the  city,  is  apparently  hol- 
lowed out  of  the  rock  by  a stream  which 
flows  through  it.  It  contains  two  or 
three  apartments,  the  largest  being  100 
feet  long,  25  feet  wide,  and  20  feet  high. 

There  are  some  beautiful  drives  in  and 
around  St.  Paul.  The  visitor  who  wishes 
to  see  as  much  as  possible,  in  a short 
space  of  time,  should  hire  a carriage  at 
one  of  the  livery  stables,  and  pursue  the 
following  course : Let  him  drive  to  Day- 
tonh  Bluffy  on  the  east  side  of  St.  Paul, 
166 


Et.  Paul.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Pai/j^ 


taking  in  a comprehensive  glance  at  the  city 
and  river,  and  the  beautiful  hills  around, 
obtain  a view  of  the  Indian  mounds  on 
the  Bluff,  and  visit  Carver's  Cave;  re- 
turning by  way  of  the  handsome  resi- 
dences of  General  Sibley,  Horace  Thomp- 
son, and  others.  Next  let  him  drive  to 
the  capitol  by  way  of  Seventh  and  Wa- 
bashaw  Streets,  pass  up  Tenth  Street 
and  out  of  College  Avenue  to  St.  Anthony 
Hill,  thence  through  Summit  Avenue. 
Then  let  him  drive  up  Western  Avenue, 
and  return  by  St.  Anthony  Street,  and 
take  a ride  up  Fort  Street,  returning  by 
Third  Street.  The  roads  leading  from 
the  city  are  good. 

The  following  railways  centre  at  St. 
Paul : Milwaukee  JSt.  Paul  {^Minnesota 
Division  and  St.  Paul  Chicago  Divis- 
ion) ; St.  Paul  Sioux  City ; St.  Paul 
cC*  Pacific  ; West  Wisconsin  Railway  ; and 
the  Lake  Superior  3fississippi,  Lines 
of  steamers  to  all  parts  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, Minnesota,  and  St.  Croix  Rivers, 
connect  with  the  railways. 

There  are  many  places  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  city  which  can  be  reached 
either  by  pleasant  drives  or  by  rail.  Of 
these  the  most  popular  is  White  Rear 
Lake.,  12  miles  distant,  on  the  Lake  Su- 
perior dc  3fississippi  Railway.  It  is  about 
9 miles  in  circumference,  with  picturesque 
shores  and  an  island  in  its  centre.  The 
Lcip  House  and  the  South-Shore  House 
are  good  hotels  to  stay  at  for  a few  days. 
The  lake  affords  capital  boating,  fishing, 
and  bathing. 

Minnehaha  Falls.,  immortalized  by 
Longfellow,  are  reached  by  a delightful 
drive  past  Fort  Snelling.,  where  the  Mis- 
sissippi is  crossed  by  a rope-ferry.  There 
is  a fair  hotel  in  the  place.  Minnehaha 
is  certainly  the  most  beautiful  spot  near 
St.  Paul,  but  hardly  merits  the  promi- 
nence which  Mr.  Longfellow’s  poem  has 
obtained  for  it. 

Fort  Snelling,  2 miles  below  Minne- 
haha, is  on  the  verge  of  the  high  bluff  at 
the  point  where  the  Minnesota  empties 
into  the  Mississippi.  It  is  the  oldest  set- 
tlement and  Government-post  in  Minne- 
sota, having  been  established  in  1820  by 
a detachment  of  the  Fifth  United  States 
Infantry,  under  the  command  of  Colonel 
Josiah  Snelling,  after  whom  it  was  named. 
Since  then,  except  from  185Y  until  1861, 
156 


when  there  were  no  troops  there,  it  has 
been  a military  post.  It  is  so  built  as  to 
be  a complete  defence  against  the  In- 
dians, but  would  be  unable  to  withstand 
the  assaults  of  civilized  troops.  The 
fort  presents  a picturesque  appearance, 
from  whatever  point  ifc  is  seen,  and  from 
its  bastions  superb  views  are  had  of  the 
Mississippi  and  Minnesota  Valleys. 

Lake  Como  is  reached  by  a pleasant 
drive  of  2|^  miles,  over  a good  road.  The 
town  is  on  a small  sheet  of  water,  not 
particularly  well  stocked  with  fish,  but  a 
favorite  place  for  sailing  and  bathing. 
On  the  lake  are  two  hotels,  which  are 
well  filled  by  visitors  during  the  summer. 

Idiclan's  Lake,  where  there  is  excellent 
fishing,  is  only  miles  from  St.  Paul,  by 
rail.  It  is  fed  by  springs  and  small 
streams,  and  will  afford  an  unfailing  sup- 
ply of  water  for  the  latter  place,  when 
the  works  now  constructing  are  com- 
pleted ; as  the  lake  is  about  100  feet 
above  the  city,  no  pumping  machinery 
will  be  needed. 

Raid- Eagle  Lake,  miles  beyond 
White  Bear  Lake,  is  noted  for  its  fishing 
and  picturesque  scenery.  It  is  a favorite 
resort  for  picnic  parties.  St.  Anthony 
and  Minneapolis  are  always  visited  by 
tourists.  They  will  be  described  in  the 
chapter  on  Minnesota. 

THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

This  is  the  most  important  river  in 
North  America,  as  is  implied  by  its  name, 
w^hich,  translated,  is  “ Father  of  Waters.” 
It  rises  in  Minnesota,  on  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  waters  which  flow  into 
Hudson’s  Bay  and  those  running  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  so  near  to  the  source 
of  ihQ  Red  River  of  the  Pfo7'th  that,  in 
times  of  extraordinary  floods,  their  waters 
have  been  knov/n  to  commingle.  It  is, 
at  its  source,  3,160  miles  from  its  mouth, 
a rivulet  flowing  from  a small  pool  fed 
by  springs.  Thence  it  flow's  through  a 
number  of  pools  or  ponds,  each  larger 
than  the  preceding  one,  until  it  expands 
into  Itasca  Lake,  whence  it  emerges  as  a 
stream  of  some  size,  and,  continually  in- 
creasing, soon  becomes  a river.  It  first 
flows  northward,  through  Cass,  Winne- 
peg,  and  other  lakes,  and  then,  turning 
to  the  south,  rolls  downward  to  the  Gulf 


Mississippi  River.]  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[Landings. 


of  Mexico,  passing  over  more  than  18 
degrees  of  latitude.  Betv/eon  the  source 
and  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  are  many 
rapids  and  water-falls,  but  the  only  one 
of  any  magnitude  is  the  Pecagama  Rapids^ 
685  miles  above  St.  Anthony.  Here  the 
river  is  but  80  feet  wide,  and  runs  over 
a sandstone  bed,  inclined  at  an  angle  of 
40  degrees,  descending  20  feet  in  300 
yards.  From  these  rapids  down  to  St.  An- 
thony’s Falls,  the  river  is  navigable,  and 
much  of  the  scenery  is  very  beautiful. 
The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  (which  will  be 
described  in  the  chapter  of  Minnesota) 
form  an  insuperable  barrier  to  naviga- 
tion, and,  between  them  and  St.  Paul 
there  is  so  much  difficulty  in  keeping  in 
the  channel,  that  no  steamers  ever  go 
above  St.  Paul,  except  those  running  up 
the  Minnesota  River ^ and  all  of  these  are 
small  and  of  light  draught.  The  river, 
from  St.  Paul  to  Dubuque,  passes  be- 
tween abrupt  and  lofty  bluffs,  distant 
from  each  other  from  two  to  six  miles, 
and  rising  from  100  to  600  feet,  the  val- 
ley or  bottom  being  very  beautiful,  filled 
with  islands,  and  intersected,  in  every 
direction,  by  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  by  the  various  canals  and  “ sloughs  ” 
(pronounced  “ slews  ”)  of  the  river 
itself.^ 

The  bluffs  are  principally  of  limestone ; 
they  are  almost  uniformly  vertical  and 
rugged,  being  nearly  destitute  of  vegeta- 
tion, except  at  the  base  and  the  summit. 
The  limestone  is  generally  of  a grayish- 
white,  but  is  stained  and  streaked  until 
it  is  of  every  hue,  from  that  of  iron-rust 
to  that  of  the  white  cliffs  of  St.  Paul. 
The  action  of  the  weather,  too,  has  worn 
the  stone  into  extraordinary  shapes,  some 
of  which  are  so  like  the  work  of  human 
hands  that  it  is  difficult  to  believe  they 
are  not  what  they  seem,  castles,  forts, 
monuments,  chimneys,  churches,  and 
statues.  There  are  grandeur  and  sub- 
limity in  every  mile  of  this  portion  of  the 
river ; but  it  becomes  monotonous,  and 
the  eye  becomes  surfeited  with  too  much 
beauty.  We  shall  therefore  not  attempt 


[*A  “slou^^h”  is  a false  channel.  It  is  often 
impossible  for  any  but  an  experienced  pilot  to  tell 
one  from  a regular  channel.  At  high  water,  some- 
times, much  time  can  be  saved  by  steamers  using 
these  sloughs,  which  are  often  more  direct  than 
the  channels.] 


a verbal  panorama  of  the  river.  Below 
Dubuque,  the  valley  continues  to  preserve 
the  same  general  characteristics,  but  the 
bluffs  are  lower  and  more  of  a hilly 
character,  and  the  scenery,  though  still 
beautiful,  is  tamer.  Throughout  the  whole 
of  this  trip  one  sees  much  to  remind  him 
of  the  Hudson,  but  the  latter  is  not  so 
beautiful.  Below  Alton  the  country  be- 
gins to  assume  more  of  the  appearance 
of  the  “Lower  River”  (as  the  portion 
below  St.  Louis  is  called),  and  the  waters, 
now  turbid  and  muddy,  roll  on  a mighty 
torrent  between  banks  often  low,  flat, 
and  sandy,  and  the  vegetation  continu- 
ally more  and  more  tropical  in  its  nature. 
As  this  portion  of  the  Mississippi  is  fully 
described  in  the  Southern  Tour  of  the 
Hand-Book  of  American  Travel,  no 
further  reference  to  it  is  necessary  in 
this  place. 

PLACES  BETWEEN  ST.  PAUL  AND  ST.  LOUIS. 


tANDINaS. 

St.  Paul 

Hastings,  Minn 

Point  Douglas,  Minn 

Mouth  St.  Croix  Kiver. 

Prescott,  Wis 

Ked  Wing,  Minn 

Head  Lak^e  Pepin 

Frontenac,  Minn 

Maiden  Eock,  Wis 

Lake  City,  Minn 

North  Pepin,  Wis 

Seed’s  Landing,  Minn 

Wabasha w,  Minn 

Alma,  Wis 

Minneiska,  Minn 

Mount  Vernon,  Minn 

Fountain  City,  Wis 

Winona,  Minn 

Trempeleau,  Wis 

Eichmond,  Minn 

La  Crescent,  Minn 

La  Crosse,  Wis 

Brownsville,  Minn 

Bad  Axe  City,  Wis 

Victory,  Wis 

De  Soto,  Wis 

Ijansing,  Iowa 

Lynxville,  Wis 

Prairie  du  Chien,  Wis 

McGregor,  Iowa 

Clayton,  Iowa 

Guttenburg,  Iowa. 

Cassville,  Wis 

Buena  Vista,  Iowa 

Potosi  Landing,  Wis 

Dunleith,  111 

Dubuque,  Iowa 

Galena,  111 

Bellevue,  Iowa 

Savanna,  111 

Sabula,  Iowa 

Lyons,  Iowa  | 

Fulton,  HI,  f 

157 


32 

3 

1 

28 

2 

16 

3 
8 

5 
8 

6 

10 

14 

4 
14 
12 
IT 

5 
16 
2 

12 

16 

10 

10 

6 

16 

14 

3 

11 

12 

10 

4 

15 
14 

1 

20 

12 

23 

3 

20 


0 

32 

85 


86 

64 

66 

82 

85 

93 

93 

106 

112 

122 

136 

140 

154 

166 

183 

188 

204 

206 

218 

284 

241 

254 

260 

276 

290 

293 

304 

316 

326 

330 

345 

359 

360 
880 
892 
415 
418 

433 


Landings.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[PXIESCOTT. 


LANDINGS.  MILES. 


Clinton,  Iowa 

2 

440 

Albany,  111 

6 

446 

Camanche,  Iowa 

8 

449 

Princeton,  Iowa 

10 

459 

Le  Claire,  Iowa 

6 

465 

Davenport,  Iowa  1 

Kock  Island,  111.  f 

18 

483 

Muscatine,  Iowa 

613 

New  Boston,  111 

18 

531 

Keithsburg,  III 

T 

538 

Oquawka,  111 

12 

650 

Burlington,  Iowa 

665 

Pontoosuc,  111 

17 

582 

Port  Madison,  Iowa 

6 

688 

Nauvoo,  111 

597 

Montrose,  Iowa 

3 

600 

Keokuk,  Iowa 

612 

Warsaw,  111 

Alexandria,  Mo 

4 

616 

Canton,  Mo 

20 

686 

Lagrange,  Mo 

8 

644 

Quincy,  111 

12 

656 

Hannibal,  Mo 

20 

676 

Louisiana,  Mo 

80 

706 

Clarksville,  Mo 

12 

718 

Cap  au  Gris 

Mouth  Illinois  Kiver 

37 

755 

Alton,  111 

40 

795 

Mouth  Missouri  Eiver 

5 

800 

St.  Louis 

20 

820 

Taking  one  of  the  large  and  elegant 
steamers  which  run  to  St.  Paul,  we  will 
commence  our  trip  down  the  river.  The 
first  thing  which  will  attract  the  atten- 
tion of  the  traveller  will  be  the  boat  it- 
self, and  its  great  dissimilarity  to  the 
stanch  steamers  built  to  withstand  the 
storms  of  the  great  lakes.  Instead  of 
the  massive  hull  and  bulwarks,  we  have 
an  immense  flat-boat  piled  with  freight 
and  open  at  the  sides,  with  the  blazing 
furnaces  and  huge  boilers  in  full  view. 
Above  this,  resting  upon  posts,  is  the  cab- 
in, extending  like  a long  corridor  the  en- 
tire length  of  the  hull,  excepting  a short 
distance  from  the  bow  ; a second  cabin 
is  often  added ; still  higher  and  yet  above 
this  is  the  “Texas”  or  ofiicers’  cabin, 
which  in  turn  is  surmounted  by  the  pilot- 
house, far  above  which  tower  the  lof- 
ty smoke-stacks  necessary  to  secure  a 
draught  for  the  high-pressure  engines 
used  upon  all  W estern  river-boats.  Then, 
too,  instead  of  being  moored  alongside  of 
a substantial  wharf,  the  boat  is  run  “ bow 
on  ” up  to  the  levee,  and  the  freight  is 
carried  on  board  on  the  heads  and  shoul- 
ders of  men  (generally  negroes),  who  are 
called  “ roust-abouts,”  or  more  briefly 
“ roosters.”  While  at  work  these  dark- 
eys are  very  amusing,  being  full  of  antics, 
and  continually  chanting  some  improvised 
168 


verses  in  which  rhyme,  and  very  often 
reason,  is  entirely  ignored.  The  effect  of 
this  singing  at  night  is  peculiar  and  very 
pleasing. 

The  hour  for  starting  having  arrived, 
the  steamer  swings  out  into  the  stream  ; 
the  band  (for  there  usually  is  one  on  every 
first-class  boat)  strikes  up  a lively  air, 
adieus  are  shouted  by  parting  friends, 
and  we  are  upon  the  mighty  river.  Look- 
ing back,  we  obtain  a fine  view  of  the 
beautiful  city  and  the  white  cliff  upon 
which  it  stands,  with  the  great  bridge 
spanning  the  stream.  The  railroad  depots 
are  quickly  passed,  and,  soon  turning  a 
bend,  we  have  nothing  left  of  St.  Paul  but 
the  memory  of  the  visit. 

Half  a dozen  small  villages  are  passed 
in  the  first  30  miles.  One  of  them  is 
somewhat  noticeable  on  account  of  its 
name  “ Red  Rock^’’’*  which  was  given  by 
the  Indians,  who  worshipped  a large  rock 
at  this  point,  which  they  painted  red  and 
called  Wakon^  or  Spirit  Rock.  It  is  7 
miles  below  St.  Paul. 

llasting's,  Mian.  (32  miles), 
the  capital  of  Dakota  County,  is  the  first 
town  we  pass  of  any  importance.  It  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  Vermilion  Riv- 
er^ which  falls  110  feet  within  half  a mile, 
furnishing  a fine  water-power.  A large 
business  is  done  in  this  place,  it  being  the 
market  and  shipping-point  for  a large 
part  of  the  county.  Hastings  was  laid 
out  in  1856,  and  now  has  a population  of 
over  3,000.  The  Hastings  <h  Dakota 
Branch  of  the  Milwaukee  d'  St.  Paul 
Railwag  terminates  here,  and  the  Bt. 
Paul  d Chicago  Division  of  the  same 
railway  crosses  the  river  at  this  point. 
The  Vermilion  Palls  are  very  beautiful 
and  well  worth  visiting. 

Miaiia.  (35 

miles),  is  the  last  point  of  Minnesota  on 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  river,  as  the  St. 
Croix  River^  which  empties  here,  marks 
the  boundary-line  of  Wisconsin,  between 
which  State  and  Minnesota  the  Mississippi 
now  forms  the  boundary  for  many  miles. 

BPrcscott,  Wis.  (36  miles),  is  di- 
vided from  Point  Douglas  by  the  St. 
Croix  River.  It  is  the  capital  of  Pierce 
County,  and  is  built  upon  a high  bank 
sloping  back  from  the  river’s  edge  to  the 
summit  of  the  bluffs.  Its  population  is 
about  1,600. 


Red  Wing.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[Winona. 


ItedL  Wing*,  Minn.  (64  miles), 
the  capital  of  Goodhue  County,  is  finely 
situated  at  the  head  of  Lake  Fepin^  on  a 
broad  level  plain  extending  to  the  foot 
of  the  bluffs.  It  was  formerly  an  Indian 
village,  and  received  its  name  from  a 
Sioux  chief.  It  is  a place  of  some  im- 
portance, the  port  and  market  of  a large 
and  fertile  region,  and  considerable  man- 
ufacturing is  done  here.  The  population 
is  about  4,000,  and  rapidly  increasing. 
The  Chicago  JSt  Paul  Branch  of  the 
Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Railway  connects 
Red  Wing  with  St.  Paul. 

S^epin  is  an  expansion  of 
the  river  about  30  miles  long,  having  an 
average  breadth  of  3 miles.  By  many  it 
is  considered  the  most  beautiful  portion 
of  the  Mississippi.  The  bluffs  on  either 
side  present  peculiar  characteristics, 
which  are  found  in  such  perfection  no- 
where else;  grim  castles  seem  only  to 
want  sentries  to  be  perfect,  and  all  the 
fantastic  forms  into  which  the  action  of 
the  weather  can  transform  limestone 
cliffs  are  to  be  seen.  For  miles  the 
bluffs  are  indented  with  huge  amphithea- 
tres almost  as  perfect  in  form  as  if  de- 
signed for  huge  audiences,  the  land  rising 
to  the  level  of  the  projecting  bluffs  which 
form  the  portals,  the  curve  being  appar- 
ently as  true  as  that  of  any  theatre  ever 
built.  The  forests  reach  to  the  river- 
bank,  and  the  water  is  so  beautifully 
clear  that  fish  may  be  seen  many  feet 
below  the  surface. 

Passing  down  the  lake  we  come  to 
Barn  Blu  f just  below  Red  Wing,  a well- 
known  landmark  200  feet  high,  and  W'e 
see  Rush  River  and  Cannon  River  enter 
the  lake,  the  former  from  Wisconsin  and 
the  latter  from  Minnesota. 

Fromtcffliac,  Mimm.  (82  miles), 
is  a favorite  resort  for  invalids  and  pleas- 
ure-seekers, on  account  of  its  fine  sce- 
nery, hunting,  bathing,  fishing,  and  sail- 
ing. Besides  the  sport  afforded  by  Lake 
Pepin,  there  are  fine  trout-fishing  in  the 
streams  and  deer-hunting  in  the  woods 
of  Wisconsin,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river.  There  are  prairie-chickens  in 
abundance  to  be  found  in  the  country  at 
the  back  of  the  village.  On  the  beach 
is  a bathing-house  for  ladies. 

Iflaiden  Rock,  Wis.  (85  miles), 
is  a promontory  409  feet  high,  near  the 


lower  end  of  the  lake.  Its  name  is  de- 
rived from  an  incident  which  is  reported 
to  have  happened  about  the  commence- 
ment of  the  present  century.  A young 
Dakota  maiden  named  Winona  loved  a 
young  hunter;  but  her  parents  wished 
her  to  marry  a warrior  of  the  Waba- 
shaw  tribe,  to  which  they  belonged,  and 
tried  to  compel  her  to  accede  to  their 
wishes.  On  the  day  before  that  appoint- 
ed for  the  marriage  she  went  to  the  verge 
of  this  precipice  and  commenced  chant- 
ing her  death-song.  Her  relatives  and 
friends  seeing  her  on  the  brink  of  de- 
struction, called  to  her  that  they  would 
yield  to  her  wishes ; but  she  did  not  be- 
lieve them,  and  before  any  one  could 
reach  her  she  leaped  over  the  precipice 
and  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks 
below.  The  village  on  the  lake-shore  is 
also  named  Maiden  Rock. 

City,  Miioa.  (93  miles), 
stands  upon  a level  plain  at  the  base  of 
the  bluffs.  In  1689,  Perrot  built  a stock- 
ade near  here.  Carver  says  that  in  1766 
he  saw  upon  this  prairie  “the  largest 
buffaloes  of  any  in  America.”  The  town 
was  laid  out  in  1856,  and  is  now  the  port 
of  a rich  farming  district.  Population 
about  2,500. 

Minsi.  (106 

miles),  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Pepin,  where 
the  river  again  contracts,  and  is  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Chippewa  River^  a navi- 
gable lumbering  river,  from  which  a large 
trade  is  brought  to  Reed’s. 

Waksaskaw,  Maim.  (112  miles), 
the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  does  a large  grain-shipping  busi- 
ness with  Chippewa  Yalley.  It  is  the  pro- 
posed terminus  of  the  Green  Bay  dh  Wa- 
hashaw  Railway. 

Miaaaeiska,  "Wis.  (136  miles), 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Whitewater^  and 

IPoaataia  City,  Wis.  (154 
miles),  each  a village  of  500  or  600  inhabi- 
tants, are  passed,  and  after  12  miles  of  re- 
markably fine  scenery,  in  which  we  see 
bluffs  conical  in  form  and  covered  with 
verdure,  others  with  vertical  fronts,  and 
worn  by  the  weather  into  most  fantastic 
shapes,  the  river,  lake-like,  and  almost 
filled  with  islands,  we  come  to  Winona. 

Wiaaona,  Minn.  (166  miles),  the 
capital  of  the  county  of  the  same  name, 
is  charmingly  situated  on  a plain  corn- 
159 


Tjrempeleau.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[POTOSf. 


manding  a view  of  the  river  for  several 
miles.  It  is  the  largest  wheat-market  in 
the  State,  and  contains  the  State  Normal 
School,  the  building  for  which  has  cost 
$100,000,  several  fine  churches,  and 
numbers  of  handsome  stores  and  private 
residences.  It  was  settled  in  1851,  in- 
corporated in  1857,  and  now  has  a popu- 
lation of  about  8,000.  The  Winona  6s 
8t.  Peter  Railway^  which  has  one  of  its 
terminal  stations  here,  together  with 
several  other  roads  now  constructing,  will 
make  Winona  one  of  the  railway  centres 
of  the  Mississippi  Valley. 

Trempelean,  (183  miles), 

is  located  in  the  midst  of  very  fine  sce- 
nery. It  is  the  port  and  market  of  a rich 
agricultural  region.  Population  about 
1,000. 

Moiaiataia  Island  (188  miles),  a 
high  rocky  island,  is  one  of  the  most 
noted  landmarks  on  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi. Its  altitude  varies  from  300  to  500 
feet. 

I^a  Crosse,  'Wis.  (206  miles),  the 
capital  of  La  Crosse  County,  is  an  im- 
portant place,  doing  a large  trade.  It  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  La  Crosse 
River.  Among  other  handsome  buildings, 
it  has  a court-house  which  cost  $40,000, 
and  has  good  schools  and  churches.  The 
boat-yard  of  the  Nor  thw  ester  nJJnion  Pack- 
et Company  employs  a large  number  of 
men,  and  there  is  much  manufacturing 
done  in  the  city.  The  Milwaukee  6s  La 
Crosse  Division  of  the  Milwaukee  6s  St. 
Paul  Railway  and  the  Southern  Minnesota 
Railway  connect  here. 

The  Black  River^  a navigable  river 
running  through  a fine  lumber-region, 
empties  into  the  Mississippi  a few  miles 
above  La  Crosse,  and  is  another  of  the 
channels  through  which  business  flows  to 
that  city. 

Crescent,  Mima.,  opposite 
La  Crosse,  is  a growing  village  of  about 
600  inhabitants. 

llrownsville,  Mima.  (218 
miles),  is  the  last  stopping-place  in  the 
State.  It  is  a shipping-point  of  some  im- 
portance, with  a population  of  about  800. 
Five  miles  above,  the  Kokah  or  Root 
River  empties  from  Minnesota,  and  five 
miles  below  Raccoon  River  enters  from 
Wisconsin. 

Axe,  Wis.  i 234  miles),  at  the 
160 


mouth  of  Bad  Axe  River ^ is  a small  village 
upon  one  of  the  battle-fields  of  the  Black 
Hawk  War.  A short  distance  below,  the 
Upper  Iowa  River^  which  rises  in  Minne- 
sota, crosses  the  northeastern  corner  of 
Iowa. 

ILaiasiaa^,  lo.  (260  miles),  the 
capital  of  Allomakee  County,  a place  of 
about  2,000  inhabitants,  ships  largo 
quantities  of  wheat  and  produce. 

IPrairie  dai  Cliien,  Wis.  (290 
miles),  the  capital  of  Crawford  County, 
about  four  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Wisconsin  River,  occupies  the  site  and 
bears  the  name  of  an  old  Indian  village. 
It  was  settled  more  than  a century  ago. 
The  prairie  upon  which  it  stands  is  one 
or  two  miles  wide,  stretching  back  from 
the  river  to  the  bluffs.  The  city  has  several 
churches,  schools,  and  good  hotels,  and 
is  an  important  local  shipping-point.  The 
Prairie  du  Chien  Division  of  the  Mil- 
waukee 6s  St.  Paul  Railway  connects  at 
this  place  by  ferry  with  the  Iowa  and  Min- 
nesota Divisions ; all  steamers  stop  at 
Prairie  du  Chien  in  passing.  The  popu- 
lation is  about  4,000. 

Mc(&regor,  lo.  (293  miles), 
was  laid  out  in  1845  by  Alexander  Mc- 
Gregor. It  was  a very  small  village  until 
the  construction  of  the  Milwaukee  6s  St. 
Paul  Railway,  which  has  given  it  quite 
an  impetus.  The  population  is  about 
2,500,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 

Clayton,  lo.  (304  miles),  is  a 
bustling  town  of  about  1,000  inhabitants. 
We  now  enter  the  lead-region,  mines 
having  been  opened  near  this  place. 

^attenl>ea*g*.  So.  (316  miles), 
the  port  for  a rich  farming  and  lead- 
mining district,  was  founded  by  a colony 
of  Germans.  It  has  a population  of  about 
1,400. 

Cassviile,  Wis.  (326  miles),  is 
the  shipping-point  of  large  quantities  of 
lead  and  produce.  At  the  time  Wisconsin 
Territory  included  Iowa,  this  was  tlie 
capital.  Opposite  the  town  is  the  mouth 
of  Turkey  River,  which  is  150  miles  long, 
and  not  navigable  for  steamboats. 

S^otosi,  Wis.  (345  miles),  the  last 
landing  in  this  State,  is  on  Grant  River, 
two  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  town  can- 
not be  seen  from  the  steamer.  It  is  pic- 
turesquely situated  in  a narrow  and  deep 
valley  or  ravine  about  three  miles  long,  and 


Dunleith.] 


NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  I. 


[Burlington. 


is  an  important  depot  for  the  rich  lead- 
mining  district  which  surrounds  it.  The 
population  is  about  2,500. 

Sll.  (359  miles),  is  the 
first  landing  in  the  State.  It  is  a village 
at  the  terminus  of  the  lllinGis  Central 
Railway  and  of  a division  of  the  Chicago 
Northwestern  Railway^  where  connec- 
tions are  made  by  ferry  with  the  railways 
running  west  from  Dubuque. 

So.  (360  miles),  the 
capital  of  the  county  of  the  same  name, 
is  the  largest  city  in  the  State.  It  is 
built  partly  upon  a terrace  20  feet  above 
high-water  mark,  and  partly  upon  the 
bluffs  which  rise  about  200  feet,  the  ef- 
fect being  that  the  lower  or  business  por- 
tion of  the  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and 
compactly  built,  'while  the  upper  portion 
picturesquely  rises  street  above  street. 
Julian  Dubuque,  after  whom  the  city  is 
named,  came  here  in  1788,  but  the 
Indians  drove  his  colony  away,  and  no 
permanent  settlement  was  effected  until 
1833.  Among  the  public  buildings  in 
the  city  worthy  of  note  are  the  Market- 
House,  the  City  Hall,  the  United  States 
Custom-House,  the  Episcopal  Seminary, 
and  three  of  the  public  schools.  There 
are,  also,  18  or  20  churches,  some  of 
which  are  quite  handsome.  Dubuque  is 
the  commercial  centre  of  the  great  lead- 
region  of  Iowa,  North 'western  Illinois,  and 
Southwestern  Wisconsin.  The  Iowa  Divis- 
ion of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway  and  the 
Dubuque  ct  Southwestern  Railway  connect 
here,  and  all  river- steamers  stop  at  the 
landing.  Population  about  20,000. 

Ctaleiati,  111.  (380  miles),  is  on  the 
Fevre  River^  six  miles  from  its  mouth. 
As  large  steamers  seldom  ascend  the 
river  as  far  as  this.  Galena  should  be 
treated  as  a railway-station  rather  than 
as  a steamboat-landing.  It  'wnll  be  de- 
scribed under  the  heading  of  Route  IY. 
of  Illinois.  (/See  page  198.) 

JSellevBie,  lo.  (392  miles),  the 
capital  of  Jackson  County,  has  one  of 
the  finest  landings  on  the  river.  It 
stands  upon  a bank  some  30  feet  above 
high-water  mark.  Eight  miles  below, 
Makoqueta  River  enters  the  Mississippi 
from  the  w'est. 

111.  (415  miles),  is  a 
short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  Plum 
Creek.  It  has  a good  landing,  and  is  the  I 


shipping-port  for  a large  amount  of  pro- 
duce. Savannah  is  also  a station  on  the 
Western  Union  Railway. 

ffjyoias.  So.  (438  miles),  is  a place 
of  considerable  business,  and  by  means 
of  the  Chicago  <So  Northwestern  Rail- 
way^ which  crosses  the  Mississippi  just 
below,  has  railway  communication  both 
east  and  west.  It  contains  several 
churches,  a female  college,  and  an  excel- 
lent graded  school.  Fulton^  III.^  nearly 
opposite,  is  described  in  Route  XII.  {See 
page  73.) 

CliiatOM,  lo.  (440  miles),  and  the 
bridge  across  the  Mississippi,  are  de- 
scribed in  Route  XII.  {See  page  73.) 

Csa-ssasancSae,  lo.  (449  miles),  is 
a lively  shipping-port,  with  a popula- 
tion of  about  1,500. 

ELi©  dsalB-,  So.  (465  miles),  is  a 
place  of  active  trade  at  the  head  of  the 
Upper  Rapids,  which  have  already  been 
described  under  the  heading  of  Rock  Isl- 
and. The  descent  of  the  rapids  is  ex- 
citing, but  dangerous ; several  steamers 
have  come  into  collision  with  the  bridge 
and  have  been  lost. 

MocI£  111.,  and 

eapoa-t,  fio.  (483  miles),  have  been 
described  in  Route  XIII.  {See  pages 
76  and  77.) 

Muscatine,  So.  (513  miles),  the 
capital  of  Muscatine  County,  is  built 
on  the  summit  of  bold,  rocky  bluffs,  for 
40  miles  before  reaching  which,  the  river 
runs  almost  due  west,  but  is  deflected 
by  them  toward  the  south,  forming  a 
huge  bend  at  the  apex,  on  which  the  city 
is  situated.  Muscatine  was  originally  an 
Indian  trading-post  named  Manatheka ; 
in  1836  it  was  settled  by  the  whites,  and 
received  its  present  name.  The  place 
has  a largo  general  trade,  and  engages 
extensively  in  the  manufacture  of  lum- 
ber. It  is  a station  on  a Branch  of  the 
Chicago^  Rock  Island  efi  Pacific  Railway. 

Hi.  (538  miles),  is 
a prosperous  little  shipping-port,  former- 
ly the  capital  of  Mercer  County. 

Oquiawlia,  Hi.  (550  miles),  the 
capital  of  Henderson  County,  has  an 
active  trade.  It  is  the  terminus  of  a 
Branch  of  the  Chicago^  Burlington^  <b 
Quincy  Railway. 

ISs&rliiig'toii,  lo.  (565  miles), 
has  been  described  in  Route  XIY. 

161 


Fort  Madison.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Alton. 


page  '79.)  The  river  here  is  broad  and 
beautiful. 

lo.  (588  miles), 
the  capital  of  Lee  County,  a prosper- 
ous place,  is  beautifully  and  health- 
fully situated  upon  the  site  of  a fortifica- 
tion built  in  1808  as  a protection  against 
the  Indians.  In  1813  the  latter  com- 
pelled the  garrison  to  evacuate  it  and 
burn  it.  The  city  contains  the  Iowa 
State  Prison,  some  handsome  churches, 
and  several  manufactories.  It  is  con- 
nected with  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river  (here  nearly  a mile  wide)  by  several 
ferries.  Fort  Madison  is  on  the  Burling- 
ton do  Keokuk  Division  of  the  Chicago^ 
Burlington  do  Quincy  Railway. 

I^a«avoo  City,  111.  (597  miles),  a 
notable  place  in  American  history,  is  upon 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  situations  on 
the  river,  the  ground  rising  regularly 
with  a gentle  slope  to  a wide  plateau  at 
the  summit.  In  1840  it  was  selected  by 
the  Mormons  as  their  future  home,  and 
at  one  time  had  a population  of  about 
18,000.  The  dwellings  were  mostly  log 
cabins,  but  The  Temple  cost  over  $500,- 
000.  It  was  built  of  polished  limestone ; 
was  130  feet  long,  by  88  feet  wide;  65 
feet  to  the  cornice,  and  163  feet  to  the 
top  of  the  cupola.  The  basement  con- 
tained the  “ Baptistry,”  an  immense  stone 
basin,  supported  by  12  colossal  oxen.  In 
June,  1844,  the  prophet  Smith  and  some 
of  his  followers,  who  had  been  arrested 
on  a trumped-up  charge,  were  taken  from 
jail  and  murdered  by  a mob.  In  1848 
the  temple  was  fired  by  an  incendiary, 
and  destroyed,  and  the  Mormons  were 
expelled  from  the  State,  whence  they 
went  to  Utah.  A company  of  French 
socialists  now  inhabit  the  place.  They 
are  but  few  in  numbers ; only  here  and 
there  the  houses  being  occupied. 

]7£oiatro@c,  lo,  (600  miles),  is  at 
the  head  of  the  “ Lower  Rapids,”  and 
is  the  point  for  lightering  the  large  steam- 
ers when  a low  stage  of  water  renders 
navigation  dangerous.  It  is  on  the  Bur- 
lington do  Keokuk  Division  of  the  Ch  kago^ 
Burlington  & Quincy  Railway. 

lo.  (612  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Route  XV.  {See  page 
82.) 

Warsaw,  111,  (616  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Route  XV.  {See  page 
162 


82.)  The  Des  Moines  River ^ the  bound- 
ary between  Iowa  and  Missouri,  enters 
the  Mississippi  nearly  opposite  Warsaw. 

Alexan«lria,  Mo.,  is  on  Box 
River^  which  enters  the  Mississippi  about 
two  miles  below  the  Dos  Moines.  It  has 
a population  of  about  1,000,  but  is  great- 
ly hindered  in  its  growth  by  the  frequent 
inundations  to  which  it  is  subjected. 

Canatoia,  Mo.  (636  miles),  is  one 
of  the  principal  shipping-places  of  Lewis 
County.  The  population  is  over  2,000. 

<|aiacy.  111.  (656  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Adams  County,  is  a beautiful  city, 
standing  on  a limestone  bluff,  125  feet 
above  the  river.  It  has  a public  square,  a 
good  court-house,  several  churches,  ten 
public  halls,  two.  daily  and  four  weekly 
papers.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  a 
rich  rolling  prairie,  and  is  highly  culti- 
vated. The  city  does  a large  shipping- 
business  both  by  rail  and  river,  and  is 
also  something  of  a manufacturing  place. 
The  Quincy  Division  of  the  Chicago^  Bur- 
lington do  Quincy  Railway  terminates  here, 
connecting  by  branch  to  Palmyra  with  the 
Hannibal  do  St.  Joseph  Railway. 

Ma.saMil>si,l,  Mo.  (676  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Route  XVI.  {See  page 
85.) 

Mo.  (706  miles),  is  a 
village  of  3,500  inhabitants,  containing  a 
number  of  stores,  warehouses,  etc.  It  is 
two  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Salt  River. 

aw.  (755  miles)  is  the 

point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois  River. 

Alton,  111.  (795  miles),  stands  upon 
a high,  hard-limestone  bluff.  If,  as  has 
been  suggested,  “ the  powers  that  be  ” 
should  cut  away  some  200  acres  of  the 
point  of  land  between  the  city  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  river  would 
hurl  its  raging  torrent  in  vain  against  the 
magnificent  bluff,  and  would  be  a little 
weakened  in  its  onslaughts  on  the  shores 
below.  This  may  some  time  be  done. 
Alton  has,  among  many  other  churches, 
a large  Roman  Catholic  cathedral,  this 
city  being  the  seat  of  a diocese  embra- 
cing Southern  Illinois.  The  State  Peni- 
tentiary was  originally  located  here,  but 
it  was  removed  several  years  since  to 
Joliet.  Alton  has  rare  natural  advan- 
tages. With  two  mighty  rivers  at  its 
feet,  and  an  abundance  of  coal  and  lime- 
stone in  the  vicinity,  it  is  the  centre  of 


Alton.] 


PITTSBURG  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  II. 


[St.  Louis. 


a rich  farraing  country,  the  produce  of 
which  here  finds  a market.  To  these 
add  the  artificial  advantages  in  the  two 
great  railways,  the  Chicago  cfi  Alton^  and 
the  LidianapoUs  <So  St.  Louis.,  which  con- 
nect here,  and  the  many  ethers  reaching 
the  city  by  means  of  those  named,  and 
we  find  it  has  all  the  elements  for  the 
growth  of  a large  city. 

'TBie  Meeting’  of  tiae  IrVst- 
Uers  ” of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi 
Rivers  occurs  3 miles  below  Alton.  This 
has  been  pronounced  one  of  the  grandest 
single  views  of  river  scenery  in  the 
country.  The  Missouri  technically  empties 
into  the  Mississippi,  but  it  is  really  the 
Mississippi  that  empties,  as  any  one  can 
see  who  ever  looks  upon  the  scene.  The 
late  Charles  H.  Sweetser,  in  his  “ Book  of 
Summer  Resorts,”  thus  describes  his  own 
visit  to  his  place  on  the  afternoon  of  a 
beautiful  May  day;  “We  reached  the 
point  where  the  two  streams  meet  and 
seek  to  mingle,  just  as  the  setting  sun, 
surrounded  but  not  hidden  by  clouds  of 
sombre  face  but  silvery  lining,  was  cast- 
ing his  last  golden  rays  upon  the  water. 
It  may  not  be  the  good  fortune  of  every 
one  to  enjoy  so  fine  a phase  of  the  sun- 
light ; but  to  stand  upon  the  deck  of 
your  steamer,  looking  upon  the  one  side 
at  the  placid  Mississippi,  clear  and  limpid, 
flowing  beautifully  toward  the  sea  ; and 
on  the  other  at  the  foaming  Missouri, 
rushing  down  upon  the  channel  of  its 
fellow  with  a muddy,  furious  torrent  that 
sweeps  all  before  it,  and  destroys  for- 
ever all  traces  of  that  gentle  stream ; 
this  is  delight  unbounded,  and  may  be 
shared  by  all  who  journey  over  the  Mis- 
sissippi waters.  Years  ago,  there  stood 
upon  the  eastern  bank,  just  at  the  con- 
fluence, the  village  of  Chippewa,  a place 
of  some  little  population  and  business  ; 
but  the  tremendous  vehemence  with  which 
the  Missouri  cast  itself  upon  the  clayey 
bank  proved  too  much  for  it  to  stand, 
and  the  land  has  gone  down  the  river  to 
seek  the  ocean,  along  with  the  other  ac- 
cretions from  the  north,  and  also  the 
south.  All  along  the  line  of  our  short  sail 
we  may  behold  the  same  process  almost 
actually  going  on  before  us.  The  banks, 
soft  and  yielding,  are  losing  on  the  one 
side  (and  increasing  on  the  other  in  a less 
proportion),  as  the  rapid  current,  knife- 


like, cuts  off  great  slices,  carrying  dov/n 
trees,  fences,  any  thing  that  unwarily 
remains  to  withstand  such  a foe.  It  is  a 
most  singular  and  a most  impressive 
sight.  We  do  not  wonder  that  the  In- 
dians selected  for  their  title  of  the  river 
a name  which,  while  it  robs  us  of  any 
solemnity  with  which  the  scene  might 
inspire  us,  certainly  conveys  to  the  mind 
the  character  of  the  work  done,  and  the 
result — the  Missouri  is  the  ‘ mud  river.’  ” 
ILomis,  Mo.  (820  miles),  is 
reached  after  20  miles  of  travel  on  the 
now  turbid  river.  We  have  completed 
our  journey  of  2,211  miles  from  Buffalo, 
all  but  15(5  miles  of  which  has  been  by 
water.  We  are  now  at  one  of  the  great 
continental  centres  whence  we  can  go  at 
will  in  any  direction.  St.  Louis  is  fully 
described  in  Route  YII.  {See  page  46.) 

This  tour  will  require  about  jive  days, 
and  the  ticket  {including  meals)  will  cost 
about  $76. 

TO  un  II. 

PITTSBURG,  PENNSYLVANIA,  TO  ST. 

LOUIS,  MISSOURI. 

Via  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers. 


LANDINGS.  MILES. 


Pittsburg-,  Pa 

19 

0 

Economy,  Pa 

19 

Freedom,  Pa 

5 

24 

Beaver,  Pa 

4 

28 

WeUsville,  0 

20 

48 

Steubenville,  0 

20 

68 

Wellsburg,  W.  Va 

6 

74 

Wheeling,  W.  Ya.  [ 

Bridgeport,  0.  f 

16 

90 

Bellaire,  0 

4 

94 

Elizabethtown,  W.  Ya.  } 

Big  Grave  Creek,  W.  Va.  f 

7 

101 

SisterviUe,  W.  Va 

35 

136 

Marietta,  0 

35 

171 

Parkersbm-g,  W.  Va.  ) 

Belpre,  0.  | 

12 

183 

Blennerhassett’s  Island 

2 

185 

Pomeroy,  0 

249 

Point  Pleasant,  W.  Va.  [ 

Great  Kanawha  Kiver  f 

263 

Gallipolis,  0 

267 

Guyandotte,  W.  Va 

303 

Burlington,  0 

311 

Big  Sandy  Eiver  ( 

Catlettsburg,  Ky.  j 

314 

Ashland,  Ky 

6 

320 

Ironton,  0 

5 

325 

Hanging  Eock 

2 

327 

Greenupsburg,  Ky 

6 

333 

Portsmouth,  0.  ( 

Sciota  Eiveri  ) 

20 

353 

Eome,  0 

381 

Manchester,  0 

394 

Maysville,  Ky.  [ 

Aberdeen,  0.  f 

11 

405 

Eipley,  0 

414 

163 


Mississippi  Riyer.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Ohio  River, 


LANDINGS. 

Augusta,  Ky 

Point  Pleasant,  0.  { 

Belmont,  Ky.  f 

New  Kichmond,  O 

Little  Miami  Liver,  O 

Cincinnati,  O.  _ [ 

Newport  & Covington,  Ky.  J 

North  Bend,  O.  _ ( 

General  Harrison’s  Grave  j 

Great  Miami  Eiver 

I.,aAvrenceburg,  Ind 

Aurora,  Ind 

Rising  Sun,  Ind 

Big  Bone,  Lick  Creek,  Ky 

Warsaw,  Ky 

Vevay,  Ind.  & Ghent,  Ky 

Carrollton,  Ky 

Madison,  Ind 

Jefferson ville,  Ind.  [ 

Louisville,  Ky.  f 

Portland,  Ky.  ( 

New  Albany,  Ind.  j 

Salt  Eiver  & West  Point,  Ky 

Brandenburg,  Ky 

Leavenworth,  Ind 

Eome,  Ind.  _ I 

Stephensport,  Ky.  j 

Cloverport,  Ky 

Cannelton,  Ind.  I 

Hawesville,  Ky.  f 

Eockport,  Ind 

Owensborough,  Ky 

Green  Eiver,  Ky 

Evansville,  Ind 

Henderson,  Ky 

Mount  Vernon,  Ind 

Uniontown,  Ky 

Wabash  Eiver 

Shawneetown,  111 

Caseyville,  Ky 

Cave  in  Eock,  111 

Elizabethtown,  111 

Golconda,  111 

Smithland,  Ky 

Paducah,  Ky 

Metropolis  City,  111 

Caledonia 

Mound  City,  111 

Cairo,  111.,  and  mouth  of  Ohio  Eiver 

Commerce,  Mo 

Thebes,  111 

Cape  Girardeau,  Mo 

Willard’s  Landing,  111 

Devil’s  Tea  Table,  and  Cornice  Eocks. . . 

Grand  Tower,  111 

Chester,  111 

8t.  Genevieve,  Mo 

Port  Chartres,  111 

Herculaneum,  Mo 

Bt.  Louis,  Mo 


MILBS. 


10 

424 

17 

441 

5 

416 

14 

460 

6 

466 

17 

483 

4 

487 

2 

489 

4 

493 

9 

502 

10 

512 

11 

523 

10 

533 

8 

541 

12 

553 

45 

598 

5 

603 

21 

624 

16 

640 

18 

658 

37 

695 

10 

705 

12 

717 

23 

740 

9 

749 

26 

775 

8 

m 

12 

795 

13 

818 

14 

832 

6 

838 

9 

847 

13 

860 

9 

869 

8 

877 

13 

890 

18 

908 

12 

920 

9 

929 

22 

951 

8 

959 

8 

967 

28 

995 

6 1001 

9 1010 

15  1025 

1 1026 

13  1039 

34  1073 

16  1089 

11  1100 

16  1116 

33  1149 

THE  OHIO  RIVER. 

The  Ohio  is  formed  by  the  junction  of 
the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela,  the 
former  being  navigable  for  keel-boats  as 
far  as  Glean,  in  the  State  of  New  York, 
a distance  of  about  250  miles  ; the  latter 
is  navigable  for  steamboats  to  Browns- 
164 


ville,  60  miles,  and  by  keel-boats  up- 
ward of  175  miles.  These  two  streams 
unite  at  Pittsburg  and  form  the  Ohio, 
which  after  a course  of  1,000  miles  unites 
its  waters  with  those  of  the  Mississippi. 
No  other  river  of  the  same  length  has 
such  a uniform,  smooth,  and  placid  cur- 
rent. Its  average  width  is  about  2,400 
feet,  and  the  descent,  in  its  whole  course, 
is  about  400  feet.  At  Pittsburg  it  is 
elevated  about  1,150  feet  above  the  ocean. 
It  has  no  fall,  except  a rocky  rapid  of 
22^  feet  descent  at  Louisville,  around 
which  is  a canal  2^  miles  long,  with  locks 
sufficiently  capacious  to  admit  large 
steamboats,  though  not  of  the  largest 
class.  During  half  the  year  this  river 
has  a depth  allowing  of  navigation  by 
steamboats  of  the  first  class  through  its 
"whole  course.  It  is,  however,  subject  to 
extreme  elevations  and  depressions.  The 
average  range  between  high  and  low 
water  is  probably  30  feet.  The  highest 
stage  of  water  of  the  Ohio  is  in  March, 
and  its  lowest  in  July  and  August,  when 
navigation  is  greatly  impeded  by  sand- 
bars and  other  obstructions.  The  varia- 
tions of  level  in  time  of  floods  are  very 
rapid,  and  the  river,  at  Cincinnati,  has 
been  known  to  rise  at  the  rate  of  over  a 
foot  an  hour  for  many  hours  in  succes- 
sion. Various  estimates  have  been  made 
of  the  rapidity  of  its  current,  but,  owing 
to  its  continually  varying,  it  would  be 
difficult  to  assign  any  very  exact  estimate. 
Between  Pittsburg  and  its  mouth  it  is 
diversified  by  many  large-sized  islands, 
some  of  which  are  of  exquisite  beauty. 
The  passages  between  some  of  these  and 
the  sand-bars  at  their  head  are  among 
the  difficulties  of  the  navigation  of  the 
Ohio.  Most  of  the  obstructions  have 
been  overcome  by  means  of  dams  that 
throw  all  the  water  into  narrow  chan- 
nels. In  the  infancy  of  the  country, 
every  species  of  water-craft  was  employed 
in  navigating  this  river,  some  of  which 
were  of  the  most  whimsical  and  amusing 
description.  The  barge,  the  keel-boat, 
the  Kentucky-flat  or  family-boat,  the 
pirogue,  ferry-boats,  gondolas,  skiffs, 
dug-outs,  and  many  others,  formerly 
floated  in  great  numbers  down  the  cur- 
rents of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers 
to  their  points  of  destination,  at  distances 
sometimes  of  3,000  miles.  Owing  to  the 


Economy.] 


PITTSBURG  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  II. 


[Wheeling. 


difficulties  of  navigating  the  river  between 
Pittsburg  and  Cincinnati,  and  the  facili- 
ties of  speedy  communication  between 
these  cities  by  rail,  the  amount  of  through- 
travel  is  comparatively  small.  The  travel- 
ler, as  he  descends  this  noble  river  in  the 
spring  of  the  year — when  its  banks  are 
full,  and  the  beautiful  red-bud  and  Comus 
Florida  deck  the  declivities  of  the  bluffs, 
which  sometimes  rise  300  feet  in  height, 
impend  over  the  river,  and  cast  their 
grand  shadows  into  the  transparent 
waters,  and  are  seen  at  intervals  in  its 
luxuriant  bottoms,  while  the  towering 
sycamore  throws  its  venerable  and  majes- 
tic arms,  decked  with  rich  foliage,  over 
the  other  trees — will  readily  acknowledge 
the  appropriateness  of  the  title  which 
the  early  French  explorers  gave  to  it.  La 
Belle  Riviere. 

The  tourist  should  first  take  a packet 
for  Wheeling.  This  will  afford  an  op- 
portunity to  see  all  objects  of  interest  in 
that  city  before  the  connecting  packet 
departs.  Then  take  a packet  for  Par- 
kersburg, where  connection  will  be  made 
wuth  some  one  of  the  fine  steamers  run- 
ning to  Cincinnati.  These  steamers  stop 
sufficiently  long  at  Pomeroy,  Gallipolis, 
Catlettsburg,  Ironton,  Portsmouth,  Mays- 
ville,  Ripley,  and  other  towns,  to  give 
opportunity  for  examining  the  salt,  coal, 
nail,  and  iron  works,  at  the  extensive 
manufactories  which  are  located  along 
the  Ohio  River.  At  Cincinnati  take  a 
packet  for  Louisville ; at  Louisville 
change  to  a packet  for  Evansville,  and 
there  change  to  a packet  for  Cairo  and 
St.  Louis.  The  amount  of  baggage  is 
seldom  limited  on  these  boats,  and  the 
care  of  it  may  be  intrusted  to  the  porter. 

Ecoiaoiiay,  (19  miles),  was 

settled  in  1825,  by  Germans  under  the 
leadership  of  George  Rapp.  They  call 
themselves  “Harmonists,”  and  hold  all 
property  in  common.  They  own  3,500 
acres  of  land,  and  their  village,  which  is 
situated  on  a plain,  contains  a church,  a 
museum,  and  manufactories  of  several 
kinds. 

ISeaver,  IPa.  (28  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Beaver  County,  is  situated  a little 
below  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  and  derives  a fine  water-power 
from  the  falls  of  the  Beaver.  There  are 
numerous  manufactories  in  and  around 


the  town.  The  Beaver  Division  of  the 
Pennsylvania  Canal  terminates  here. 

WeMsville,  (48  miles),  was 
laid  out  by  William  Wells,  in  1824.  It 
is  an  important  place  for  the  shipment 
of  produce  and  wool,  and  contains  foun- 
deries,  machine-shops,  and  the  repairing- 
shops  of  the  Cleveland  dc  Piltsburg  Rail- 
way. Nearly  opposite  Wellsville,  the 
desperate  fight  between  Adam  Poe,  his 
brother,  and  a party  of  Indians,  is  said 
to  have  taken  place ; and  two  miles  be- 
low, near  the  mouth  of  Great  Yellow 
Creeh^  is  the  locality  of  the  murder  of 
the  family  of  Logan,  the  Mingo  chief. 

^teiilbeiiville,  O.  (68  miles). 
i^Sce  page  25.) 

Well§l>wi-g*,  W.  Va.  (Y4  miles), 
the  capital  of  Brook  County,  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
river.  It  is  a busy  manufacturing  town, 
and  exports  large  amounts  of  wool.  Rich 
coal-mines  are  worked  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  town  was  laid  out  in  1789, 
and  was  originally  called  Charlestown, 
but  the  name  was  afterward  changed  in 
compliment  to  Alexander  Wells,  who 
built  the  first  flouring-mills  on  the  Ohio. 
Among  the  early  settlers  was  Joseph 
Doddridge,  author  of  the  “Indian  Wars 
of  Northwestern  Virginia.”  Bethany^  8 
miles  distant,  is  the  seat  of  a college, 
founded  in  1841,  by  the  Rev.  Alexander 
Campbell. 

'Wlaeeliiig’,  "W,  (90  miles), 

formerly  the  capital  of  the  State,  and 
now  capital  of  Ohio  County,  is  situated 
on  both  sides  of  Wheeling  Creek.,  at  its 
mouth,  and  is  the  principal  city  between 
Pittsburg  and  Cincinnati.  The  first  set- 
tlement was  made  in  1769,  and  the  city 
now  has  a population  of  about  25,000. 
Wheeling  is  built,  for  the  most  part, 
upon  an  alluvial  tract  extending  along 
the  river  about  three  miles,  and  shut  in 
by  hills.  The  beautiful  wire  suspension- 
bridge,  by  which  the  National  Road  here 
crosses  the  river,  has  one  of  the  longest 
spans  in  the  world,  it  being  1,010  feet. 
The  height  of  the  supporting-towers  is 
60  feet  above  the  abutments,  and  153 
feet  above  low-water  mark.  Four  wire 
cables,  each  1,380  feet  long,  and  8 inches 
in  diameter,  support  the  bridge.  The 
cost  was  $210,000.  A splendid  railway- 
bridge,  obviating  the  transfer  of  freight 
165 


BRIbGEPORT.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[POMEROT. 


and  passengers  by  ferry,  was  completed 
in  1870. 

As  a manufacturing  centre,  Wheeling 
possesses  rare  advantages  from  its  imme- 
diate proximity  to  large  fields  of  coal  and 
iron,  and  to  the  oil-regions  of  the  State, 
and  from  its  river  and  railroad  connec- 
tions. Like  most  manufacturing  cities, 
it  is  smoky,  dingy,  and  disagreeable.  It 
has  the  following  railway  connections ; 
by  Baltimore  Ohio  Railway  and  its 
branches  with  Baltimore,  Cincinnati,  and 
Sandusky,  and  by  Cleveland  d:  Pittsburg 
Railway  with  the  two  cities  named.  The 
Hempfield  Railway^  now  partially  com- 
pleted, will  be  a short  route  to  Pittsburg. 

O.  (90  miles),  con- 
tains several  mills  and  warehouses,  and 
does  a large  business  in  forwarding  goods 
to  the  West.  It  is  connected  with 
Wheeling  by  the  suspension-bridge. 

lSelIa;tre,  O.  (94  miles),  has  been 
described  in  Route  X.  {See  page  70.) 

CJrave  Creelc,  W.  Va.  (101 
miles),  is  the  capital  of  Marshall  County. 
Big  and  Little  Grave  Creeks  enter  the 
river  here,  leaving  an  interval  of  a mile 
in^width,  on  which  the  village  is  built. 
It  is  divided  into  two  distinct  villages,  of 
nearly  equal  size,  namely,  Elizabethtown 
and  Moundsville^  the  former  of  which  is 
the  seat  of  justice.  Moundsville  derives 
its  name  from  the  Mammoth  Mound  in 
the  vicinity,  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
United  States.  These  mounds,  which 
are  relics  of  the  Indians,  are  so  common 
in  the  West  that  not  much  notice  is  given 
to  them.  The  great  one  near  Mounds- 
ville, which  is  70  feet,  and  the  one  at 
Miamisburg,  Ohio,  which  is  68  feet  in 
vertical  height,  no  doubt  mark  the  graves 
of  personages  of  high  consequence  among 
the  builders  of  these  monuments.  The 
common  notioin  that  the  mounds  contain 
vast  heaps  of  slain,  and  are  the  memo- 
rials of  great  battles,  is  wholly  unsup- 
ported by  facts.  A very  large  mound 
was  entirely  removed  from  near  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  in  1870,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
p.n  embankment  for  the  approaches  to 
the  great  bridge  across  the  Mississippi. 
In  the  same  vicinity  there  stands  one 
which  is  700  feet  long,  500  feet  broad  at 
the  base,  and  80  feet  high,  covering  up- 
ward of  eight  acres  of  ground,  and  hav- 
ing 20,000,000  cubic  icet  of  contents. 

166 


Many  of  these  ancient  structures  are 
undoubtedly  of  sacred  origin;  but  the 
most  common  monuments  of  the  Missis- 
sippi Valley  are  simply  places  of  sepul- 
ture. 

^isterville,  W.  Va.  (136  miles), 
has  an  active  trade.  Coal  and  iron-ore 
are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  several 
turnpike-roads  terminate  here. 

Marietta,  O.  (171  miles),  a flour- 
ishing town,  and  the  capital  of  Washing- 
ton County,  is  very  picturesquely  situ- 
ated at  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  and 
Muskingum  Rivers^  and  is  regularly  laid 
out  on  level  ground.  It  is  the  oldest 
town  in  the  State,  having  been  settled  in 
April,  1788,  by  a company  of  New-Eng- 
landers  under  the  command  of  General 
R.  Putnam.  Fort  Harmar  was  built  on 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  Muskingum,  in 
1786.  Marietta  is  the  centre  of  an  ex- 
tensive trade  in  oil  (petroleum),  which  is 
obtained  in  the  vicinity,  and  is  the  east- 
ern terminus  of  the  Marietta  & Cincin- 
nati  Railway^  which  connects  with  the 
Baltimore  & Ohio  Railway  at  Belpre.  It 
has  good  schools,  and  several  public 
buildings,  and  is  the  seat  of  Marietta 
College,  founded  in  1835.  There  are 
also  here  a number  of  iron-founderies, 
bucket,  chair,  and  other  manufactures. 
Population  in  1870,  5,219. 

^^arltersljiiirg',  W.  Va.,  and 
®elpre,  O.  (183  miles),  together  with 
the  grand  railway-bridge  uniting  them, 
have  been  described  in  Route  XI.  {See 
page  70.) 

Mieaiaeriiassett’s  Igtlauil 

(185  miles)  is  noted  for  having  been  the 
residence  of  Herman  Blennerhassett,  an 
Irishman  of  distinction,  who  improved 
the  island,  and  built  on  it  a splendid 
mansion  for  himself,  in  1798.  When 
Aaron  Burr  was  planning  his  celebrated 
conspiracy,  he  induced  Blennerhassett  to 
join  him,  and  to  embark  all  his  means  in 
the  scheme.  Although  not  convicted  of 
treason,  Blennerhassett  was  ruined,  his 
house  went  to  decay,  and  his  beautiful 
gardens  were  destroyed. 

E®oiaieroy,  O.  (249  miles),  the 
capital  of  Meigs  County,  is  built  on  a 
narrow  strip  of  land,  which  is  enclosed 
between  the  river  and  a range  of  rugged 
and  precipitous  hills.  Including  the  ad- 
joining villages  of  Coalport,  Minergville, 


Point  Pleasant.]  PITTSBURG  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  II.  [Portsmouth. 


Carltonville,  and  Middleport,  which  may 
be  regarded  as  portions  of  the  same 
town,  it  extends  nearly  three  miles  along 
the  river.  Pomeroy  owes  its  rapid 
growth  and  prosperity  chiefly  to  the 
abundance  and  superior  quality  of  the 
stone-coal  found  in  the  vicinity.  In  1851, 
a company,  with  a capital  of  $25,000, 
was  formed  here  for  manufacturing  salt. 
Two  wells  were  sunk  to  the  depth  of 
1,000  feet,  each  of  which  discharges  50 
gallons  of  water  a minute,  containing  9.5 
per  cent,  of  salt.  The  quality  of  the  salt 
is  said  to  be  very  good.  Since  this  ex- 
periment numerous  companies  have  been 
formed,  and  have  been  so  successful  that 
Pomeroy  has  become  one  of  the  most 
extensive  salt-manufacturing  places  in 
the  Western  States.  Population  in  1870, 
6,825. 

Pleasant,  W,  Ta.  (263 
miles),  the  capital  of  Mason  County,  is 
on  the  site  of  the  battle  of  “ Point  Pleas- 
ant,” fought  October  10,  1774.  Eleven 
hundred  whites  were  attacked  by  a large 
body  of  Indians  under  the  command  of 
“ Cornstalk,”  a noted  warrior.  The  en- 
gagement was  the  most  severe  ever 
fought  with  Indians  on  the  soil  of  Vir- 
ginia. It  lasted  all  day,  ending  in  the 
defeat  of  the  savages  and  their  retreat 
across  the  Ohio. 

The  Oreat  ICaaawlia  Itiver 

empties  at  Point  Pleasant.  It  is  about 
80  or  100  miles  long,  and  is  navigable 
more  months  in  the  year  than  the  Ohio, 
but  only  to  narrow  boats,  as  the  river 
itself  is  very  narrow.  On  either  side  are 
broad  farms,  back  of  which  are  moun- 
tains of  coal,  salt,  and  iron.  The  cur- 
rent is  very  rapid,  and  the  river  will 
sometimes  rise  or  fall  12  or  15  feet  in  a 
single  night.  Ckarledon^  the  capital  of 
West  Va.,  is  on  this  river,  60  miles  from 
the  mouth.  New  River,  Coal  River,  and 
Elk  River,  all  navigable  streams,  are 
tributary  to  the  Kanawha. 

O,  (275  miles),  is  a 
flourishing  town  pleasantly  situated  on  a 
high  bank,  and  having  some  handsome 
public  buildings, three  steam-flouring  mills, 
a woollen-factory,  and  two  tanneries.  It 
was  a depot  of  supplies  during  the  late 
civil  war.  Population  in  1870,  3,691. 

€ruy£^iidotte,  W.  Va.  (303 
miles),  at  the  mouth  of  Big  Guyandoitc 


River,  is  an  important  place  of  steamboat 
debarkation.  A railroad  is  projected 
between  this  place  and  Covington,  Ky., 
to  connect  with  the  Kentucky  Central 
Railway,  also  a railway  to  the  White 
Sulphur  Springs,  W.  Va.,  to  be  called  the 
Ohio  & Chesapeake  Railway. 

lSui*lia§^toii9  (311  miles),  is 
the  capital  of  Lawrence  County.  In  the 
neighborhood  are  large  deposits  of  iron- 
ore  and  numerous  furnaces. 

The  Sandy  Kiver  (314 

miles)  is  the  boundary  between  Kentucky 
and  West  Virginia.  It  flows  over  beds  of 
stone-coal,  and  is  a fine  stream,  open  for 
steamboat  navigation  for  more  than  100 
miles. 

Catlett My.,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Big  Sandy  River,  is  com- 
paratively a young  town,  but  is  grow- 
ing rapidly.  Among  its  notable  features 
is  a flourishing  female  seminary  founded 
and  sustained  by  Captain  Washington 
Honsbcll,  for  the  purpose  of  educating 
poor  girls  who  have  not  the  means  to 
obtain  a liberal  education. 

AslAlaii.d.,  My.  (320  miles),  a small 
village,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Lexington 
& Big  Sandy  Railway,  now  building. 

Iroiaton.,  (325  miles),  was  laid 
out  in  1849.  It  is  situated  above  the 
reach  of  the  highest  floods,  at  the  foot 
of  high  hills,  rich  in  coal  and  iron.  It 
contains  large  brick  buildings,  churches, 
and  schools,  and  a number  of  founderies, 
machine-shops,  and  manufactories. 

Mamig’iiag  Mock,  4>.  (327  miles), 
the  depot  for  the  product  of  several  blast- 
furnaces, has  a rolling-mill  and  other 
manufacturing  establishments.  It  takes 
its  name  from  a cliff  of  rocks  about  400 
feet  high  in  the  rear  of  the  town. 

<3^ ir e e saua p s k ii a- g.  My.  (333 
miles),  sometimes  called  Greenup  Court- 
House,  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Little 
Sandy  River,  and  is  the  capital  of  Green- 
up County. 

l^ortsaaioiatlt,  O.  (353  miles),  the 
capital  of  Scioto  County,  is  beautifully 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  and 
at  the  terminus  of  the  Ohio  dc  Erie  Canal, 
Steamboats  ply  regularly  between  this 
city,  Cincinnati,  and  other  river  ports, 
and  the  Rortsmoulh  Branch  of  the  Mari- 
etta Cincinnati  Railway  terminates 
here.  The  town  contains  several  large 
167 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [Lawrenceburg. 


Rome.] 

public  buildings,  iron  and  nail  factories, 
and  forges.  Iron-ore,  stone-coal,  and 
line  building-stone  are  found  in  great 
abundance  in  the  vicinity.  Population 
in  1860,  6,268  ; in  1870,  10,592. 

ISome,  O.  (381  miles),  has  an  ac- 
tive trade  in  lumber,  and  there  are  mines 
of  iron-ore  in  the  vicinity. 

Maiacliestei*,  (394  miles),  was 
formerly  the  capital  of  Adams  County. 
It  is  a milling  and  manufacturing  place. 
The  first  settlement  in  the  Virginia  mili- 
tary district  was  made  here  in  1795. 

Maysville,  My.  (405  miles),  is 
beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence,  and 
a range  of  bold  and  verdant  highlands, 
rising  immediately  behind  it,  renders  its 
appearance,  as  viewed  from  the  river, 
very  attractive.  It  is  compactly  built, 
and  contains  many  handsome  houses.  It 
is  the  entrepot  of  the  goods  and  produce 
imported  and  exported  by  the  northeast- 
ern section  of  Kentucky,  and  is  the  most 
extensive  hemp-market  in  the  United 
States.  Maysville  has  numerous  manu- 
factories, among  which  are  2 steam  cotton 
factories,  a large  bagging  factory,  2 iron- 
founderies,  5 rope-walks,  12  manufacto- 
ries of  ploughs,  and  of  coaches  and  wagons. 
It  was  settled  in  1784,  and  incorporated 
in  1833.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river  is  the  thriving  village  of  Aberdeen^ 
Ohio. 

Mipley,  (414  miles),  was  for- 
merly called  Staunton,  but  its  name  was 
changed  in  compliment  to  the  late  General 
Ripley,  chief  of  ordnance,  U.  S.  Army. 
It  is  the  principal  town  in  the  county,  has 
a large  trade,  and  is  beautifully  situated 
on  a narrow  strip  of  land  between  the 
river  and  steep  hills. 

Aiig'iista,  My.  (424  miles),  is  the 
most  important  town  in  the  county  of 
Bracken,  on  account  of  trade  and  manu- 
factures. It  has  several  tobacco-ware- 
houses, large  steam  flouring-rnills,  and  a 
tannery.  This  place  is  the  seat  of  Au~ 
guda  College^  which  was  founded  by  the 
Methodists  in  1825,  being  the  first  insti- 
tution of  the  kind  ever  established  by 
that  denomination. 

There  have  been  numerous  human 
bones  excavated  from  the  earth  in  Au- 
gusta, proving  it  to  have  been  a burial- 
place  ill  times  long  since  gone  by.  A 
resident  of  this  town  alleges  to  have 
168 


found  110  skeletons  in  digging  a cellar 
60  by  70  feet. 

O.,  and  JBel- 
My.  (441  miles),  arc  small 
villages  on  opposite  sides  of  the  river. 
The  former  was  the  birthplace  of  Presi- 
dent Grant. 

New  Micltmoiid,  ©.  (446  miles), 
the  most  populous  village  in  Clermont 
County,  contains  nine  or  ten  churches,  a 
Union  school,  several  mills,  etc. 

The  BLiittie  Miami  Stiver  (460 
miles)  is  not  a navigable  stream,  but 
flows  through  a rich  farming  country, 
and  furnishes  a valuable  water-power 
along  its  whole  length. 

CiaciMBiati,  O.,  and  Mew- 
port  and  Coviaag-toii,  My.  (466 
miles),  have  been  described  in  Route  Y. 
{See  page  31.) 

The  view  from  the  steamer  when 
opposite  Cincinnati  is  remarkable,  and 
one  long  to  be  remembered.  On  the  one 
hand  is  the  densely-populated  city,  its 
rows  of  massive  buildings  rising  tier 
above  tier  toward  the  hill-tops,  which, 
crowned  with  villas  and  vineyards,  form 
a semicircular  background.  On  the  op- 
posite bank  rise  the  beautiful  Kentucky 
hills,  their  summits  still  crowned  by  the 
earthworks  raised  during  the  days  of 
Cincinnati’s  threatened  danger  in  the  late 
civil  war ; while  at  their  feet  nestle  the 
twin  cities  of  Covington  and  Newport^ 
Kentucky,  divided  only  by  the  Licking 
River.  Covington  is  united  with  Cincin- 
nati by  a suspension-bridge,  and  another 
spans  the  Licking,  between  Covington 
and  Newport.  A new  railroad-bridge 
over  the  Ohio  connects  Newport  and 
Cincinnati. 

Mortia  Meaad.,  O.  (483  miles),  a 
charming  spot,  was  the  residence  of 
General  William  Henry  Harrison,  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States.  His  tomb,  a 
modest  brick  structure,  upon  a beautiful 
knoll,  is  visible  for  several  miles  both  up 
and  down  the  river.  Standing  beside 
it,  the  visitor  can  take  in  a fine  view 
of  parts  of  Indiana,  Ohio,  and  Ken- 
tucky. 

The  Miami  Mivei*  (487 

miles),  an  important  though  not  a navi- 
gable stream,  is  the  boundary  of  Ohio  and 
Indiana. 

MawreEicel>iirg,  lad.  (489^ 


Auroka.] 


PITTSBURG  TO  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  II,  [LouisriLLs. 


miles),  has  been  described  in  Eofte  IX. 
{See  page  59.) 

. Awiro^a,  IsMie  (493  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Eoute  IX.  (See  pa^e 
59.)  ^ ^ ° 

gsta,  Isidl.  (502  miles), 
the  capital  of  Ohio  County,  is  a thriving 
manufacturing  town,  containing  several 
handsome  public  buildings. 

- ^ IBoiae  Creelc,  Ky. 

(512  miles),  is  in  Boone  County.  About 
two  miles  from  the  mouth  of  this  stream 
are  the  Sigf  Sone  Lick  Springs^  the  waters 
of  which  are  impregnated  with  sulphur 
and  salt.  The  place  derives  its  name 
from  the  large  number  of  bones  of  the 
mastodon,  or  mammoth,  and  the  arctic 
efephant,  formerly  found  scattered  all 
over  the  surface  of  the  ground  in  the 
neighborhood. 

Warsaw,  Ky.  (523  miles),  the 
capital  of  Gallatin  County,  is  an  enter- 
prising village,  and  has  several  large 
tobacco-factories. 

^ Vevay,  Sad.  (533  miles),  a pretty 
village,  is  the  capital  of  Switzerland 
County.  In  1804  it  was  settled  by  a 
colony  of  Swiss,  who  commenced  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  grape  on  a large  scale ; 
but  the  vine  does  not  receive  much  atten- 
tion at  present.  On  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river  is  the  village  of  Ghent,  Ky. 

Oarrolltoii,  iky.  (541  miles), 
the  capital  of  Carroll  County,  stands  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Kentucky  River,  and 
was  formerly  called  Fort  William,  It 
was  first  settled  in  1784,  and  the  present 
town  was  laid  out  in  1792.  It  has  been 
the  scene^of  several  contests  with  the 
Indians. 

The  l^entMclty  IStver  is  a navi- 
pble  stream,  about  200  miles  long,  and 
is  noted  for  its  beautiful  scenery. 

Madison,  End.  (553  miles),  the 
capital  of  Jefferson  County,  is  one  of  the 
principal  cities  in  the  State  in  population 
and  importance.  It  is  the  southeastern 
terminus  of  the  Jeffersonville,  Madison  & 
Indianapolis  Railway,  which  was  com- 
pleted in  1848.  The  city  is  beautifully 
situated  in  a valley  nearly  three  miles  in 
length,  which  is  enclosed  on  the  north  by 
steep  and  rugged  hills,  about  400  feet 
high.  The  site  is  elevated  30  or  40  feet 
above  the  highest  floods.  Madison  is 
well  built,  and  contains  handsome  public 
8 


buildings.  The  streets  arc  paved,  and 
lighted  with  gas,  and  have  quite  a busi- 
ness aspect.  Among  the  manufactories 
are  several  brass  and  iron  founderies, 
flouring-mills,  and  planing-miils.  The 
building  of  steamboats  is  an  important 
branch  of  industry  at  Madison.  Naviga- 
tion is  open  all  winter,  and  steamboats 
make  daily  passages  between  the  port  and 
Cincinnati  and  Louisville.  Pop.  12  000. 

Jeffei-soia  jille,  In€ll(598 
miles),  is  a flourishing  town,  situated  on 
an  elevation  which  presents  a delightful 
view  of  the  city  of  Louisville,  of  the 
broad  and  winding  river  with  its  verdant 
islands,  and  a range  of  hills  a few  miles 
distant.  The  Ohio  is  about  a mile  wide 
opposite  this  town,  and  is  here  crossed 
by  one  of  the  finest  bridges  in  the  United 
States,  giving  unbroken  connection  be- 
tween the  railway  systems  of  the  Southern 
States.  Jeffersonville  is  the  Southern 
terminus  of  the  Jeffersonville,  Madison 
Indianapolis  Railway,  It  contains  many 
handsome  churches,  a large  manufactory 
of  locomotives  and  cars,  machine-shops 
mills,  and  the  Southern  State  Prison  of 
Indiana. 

S^ouisTUle,  Ky.  (698  miles),  the 
largest  city  in  the  State,  and,  com- 
meroially,  one  of  the  most  important  in 
the  country,  will  be  found  fully  described 

m Appletons’  Hand-Book  op  Tratel 

Southern  Tour.  It  is  a point  of  depart- 
ure for  the  Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky 
a natural  curiosity  which  every  tourist 
should  see,  and  which  is  described  in  the 
Southern  Tour. 

The  Falls  of  the  Ohio,  just  below  Louis- 
ville, obstruct  navigation  entirely  at  low 
stages  of  water.  The  descent  is  23  feet 
m two  miles.  To  obviate  this,  a canal  was 

made  around  them,  to  Shippingsport  a 
distance  of  2|  miles.  It  was  a work  of 
stupendous  labor,  being  cut,  a greater 
part  of  Its  length,  through  solid  rock  It 
IS,  m some  places,  40  feet  deep,  and  of 
sufficient  width  to  allow  the  passage  of 
steamboats ; it  affords  fine  water-power 
for  the  mill-seats  below  the  locks. 

On  the  24th  of  September,  1816  the 
steamboat  Washmgion,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain  Shreve,  made  the  first 
voyage  accomplished  by  a steam-vessel 
trom  Louisville  to  New  Orleans.  On  the  3d 
of  March,  1817,  she  started  on  another 
160 


Portland.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Cannelton. 


trip,  and  made  the  time  to  New  Orleans 
and  back  in  41  days  ; the  ascending 
voyage  being  made  in  25  days.  A public 
dinner  was  given  to  the  captain  by  the 
citizens  of  Louisville,  at  which  he  pre- 
dicted that  the  day  was  not  far  distant 
when  the  trip  would  be  made  in  ten  days. 
It  has  since  been  made  in  less  than  five 
days. 

Portland,  Ky.  (603  miles),  situ- 
ated  at  the  lower  termination  of  the 
canal  made  aro-und  the  rapids,  has  a 
large  trade. 

New  All>any,  lad.  (603  miles), 
which  lies  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
is  an  important  place — in  fact,  the  chief 
commercial  town  of  the  State.  Steam- 
boats arrive  and  depart  daily  from  and 
to  all  points  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi. 
The  streets  of  New  Albany  are  wide, 
straight,  well  paved,  and  well  lighted 
with  gas.  The  town  contains  18  churches, 
a collegiate  institute,  a Presbyterian 
theological  seminary,  banks,  and  large 
public  schooLhouses.  Steamboat-build- 
ing is  carried  on  more  extensively  here 
than  at  any  other  place  on  the  Ohio,  ex- 
cepting Cincinnati.  The  manufactories 
of  the  place  are  numerous  and  various. 
New  Albany  is  the  terminus  of  the  Louh- 
ville^  New  Albany  <Sc  Chicago  Railway.  It 
was  laid  out  in  1813.  The  population  in 
1840  was  4,226;  in  1860,  12,647;  in 
1870,  16,205. 

West  Poimt,  Ky.  (624  miles), 
at  the  mouth  of  Salt  River^  has  an  ex- 
tensive boat-building  yard. 

Bramideii'bii.rg',  Ky.  (640  miles), 
the  capital  of  Meade  County,  is  situated 
on  a high  bluff  affording  fine  views  of 
the  river  and  adjacent  country.  It  has  a 
prosperous  trade. 

lueaveiawertU,  lad.  (658  miles), 
the  capital  of  Crawford  County,  is  situ- 
ated at  the  Horseshoe  Bend.  It  is  the 
principal  shipping-point  for  an  extensive 
region.  The  coal-fields  of  Indiana  com- 
mence here. 

Wyandotte  Cave  is  in  Crawford 
County,  five  miles  from  Leavenworth, 
near  the  Blue  River,  and  400  feet  above 
the  water.  It  has  two  general  divisions, 
called  Old,  or  “ Epsom  Salts  Cave,''*  and 
“ATew  Cave''  It  has  been  explored  22 
miles,  and  many  portions  still  remain 
unvisited.  As  far  as  now  known,  its 
170 


greatest  width  is  300  feet,  and  its  greatest 
height  245  feet.  Some  of  its  most  noted 
features  are  “ Bandits'  Hall,"  “ Pluto's 
Ravine,"  “ Monument  Mountain,"  “ Luci- 
fer's Gorge,"  and  “ Calypso's  Island." 
Among  its  wonders  is  a white  column  30 
feet  high  and  15  in  diameter,  regularly 
and  beautifully  fluted,  and  surrounded 
by  other  formations  of  the  same  charac- 
ter. Epsom  salts,  nitre,  gypsum,  and 
aluminous  earth,  are  found  in  the  soil 
of  the  floor.  Inside  the  cave  is  the 
picture  of  an  Indian  rudely  painted  on 
the  rock. 

SSome,  Ind..  (695  miles),  the  capital 
of  Perry  County,  and  Stephensport,  Ky., 
at  the  mouth  of  Sinking  Creek,  are  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  river.  They  are 
snaall  villages. 

Creelc  rises  in  the  upper 
part  of  Breckenridge  County,  Ky.  It  is 
a large  stream,  supplying  abundance  of 
water-power  for  mills  during  the  whole 
year ; six  or  seven  miles  from  its  source, 
it  sinks  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  showing  no  trace  of  its  presence 
for  five  or  six  miles,  when  it  reappears 
above-ground  and  flows  into  the  Ohio. 
On  this  creek  is  to  be  seen  a natural 
rock  mill-dam,  eight  feet  high  and  40 
feet  wide,  which  answers  all  the  purposes 
of  a dam  to  a mill  which  has  been  erected 
at  the  place.  Near  the  creek  is  Peni- 
tentiary Cave,  which  has  never  been  fully 
explored. 

Cloverport,  My.  (705  miles), 
does  a large  business  in  shipping  prod- 
uce. Coal  is  abundant  in  the  vicinity. 
Four  miles  from  the  village^  are  the 
White  Sulphur  Springs,  a fashionable 
watering-place.  (See  Appletons’  Hand- 
Book  OF  American  Travel — Southern 
Tour.) 

Ca^nneltoift^  Isid.  (717  miles), 
has  several  churches  and  handsome  resi- 
dences, and  a cotton-factory,  which 
employs  several  hundred  hands.  Popu- 
lation about  2,500.  The  factory  pre- 
sents a splendid  appearance  from  the 
river ; it  is  300  feet  long  and  four  stories 
high,  built  of  variegated  sandstone.  Ex- 
tensive beds  of  coal  are  found  in  the 
adjoining  hills,  giving  the  place  great  ad- 
vantages as  a manufacturing  town.  Fire- 
clay and  a fine  sandstone  for  building- 
purposes  are  found  here  in  abundance. 


Hawesville.]  PITTSBUEG  to  ST.  LOUIS,  TOUR  II. 


[Paducah. 


Iffawesville,  My.  (717  miles), 
the  capital  of  Hancock  County,  has  a 
large  coal-trade. 

SSoclcpoi-t^  Isid.  (740  miles),  the 
capital  of  Spencer  County,  is  pictu- 
resquely situated  on  a high  bluff.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  a hanging  rock, 
known  as  Lady  Washington's  Rock^  which 
rises  about  30  feet  above  the  river  at  its 
ordinary  level. 

Owemstooroiigla,  My.  (749 
miles),  the  capital  of  Daviess  County,  is  a 
thriving  shipping-port.  The  navigation 
of  the  river  is  seldom  obstructed  either  by 
ice  or  low  water  below- this  place.  It  is 
in  a fertile  region  abounding  in  minerals. 

CrreeM  Mlver,  My.  (725  miles) 
is  a navigable  stream,  as  is  also  its  tribu- 
tary, the  Big  Barren. 

Evansville,  Ind.  (783  miles),  a 
port  of  entry  and  a flourishing  city,  is 
the  capital  of  Yanderburg  County.  It  is 
the  southern  terminus  of  the  Evansville 
dc  Crawfordsville  Railway.,  and  of  the 
Wabash  Erie  Canal.,  which  is  about 
400  miles  long,  the  most  extensive  in  the 
Union.  Among  the  public  buildings  are 
the  branch  of  the  State  Bank,  a fine  edi- 
fice, and  a marine  hospital.  Evansville 
has  30  churches,  a large  court-house,  sev- 
eral banks,  a theatre,  and  four  public 
halls.  It  is  the  principal  shipping-point 
for  the  grain  and  pork  of  southwestern 
Indiana,  and  has  large  and  important 
manufactories.  Population  in  1860,  11,- 
484;  in  1870,  21,830. 

Mendersoii,  My.  (795  miles), 
the  capital  of  Henderson  County,  is  a 
flourishing  place,  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a fine  agricultural  region,  abounding 
in  coal  and  iron. 

Mount  Veruou,  lud.  (818 
miles),  the  capital  of  Posey  County,  stands 
on  a fine  bluff,  commanding  an  extensive 
and  beautiful  view  of  the  river. 

Enioutowm,  My.  (832  miles),  is 
a small  village  in  Union  County.  A few 
miles  from  it,  on  Highland  Creek.,  is  a fine 
tar-spring.  There  are  a number  of  curi- 
osities in  the  county,  worthy  of  observa- 
tion. One  is  a large  flat  rock,  with  per- 
fect resemblance  of  the  naked  feet  of 
men  and  animals  deeply  imprinted  in  it. 
There  is  also  a cavern,  which  is  thought 
to  be  of  great  extent,  but  has  not  yet 
been  fully  explored. 


The  Wal>asli  Miver  (838  miles), 
for  nearly  200  miles  the  boundary  be- 
tween Indiana  and  Illinois,  is  navigable 
for  flat-boats  400  miles.  At  high  w^ater, 
steamboats  ascend  as  far  as  Lafayette. 

^Iiawueetowii,  SIl.  (847  miles), 
derives  its  name  from  the  Shawnee  tribe 
of  Indians,  who  once  occupied  this  site. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  important  commer- 
cial places  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
State.  A new  line  of  railroad,  connecting 
the  northern  and  southern  systems,  is  now 
building,  and  will  pass  through  Shawnee- 
town. 

Caseyville,  My.  (860  miles),  is  a 
small  village.  About  three  miles  distant 
may  be  seen  a natural  curiosity,  termed 
Anvil  Rock,  which  is  some  50  feet  high, 
20  feet  wide,  and  two  feet  thick,  and 
bears  a striking  resemblance  to  a black- 
smith’s anvil.  It  stands  upon  level  bot- 
tom-land, and  is  entirely  isolated. 

Two  miles  below  the  village,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  river,  is  Battery 
Rock,  a high  and  picturesque  bluff. 

Cave  iu  Mock,  111.  (869  miles), 
is  one  of  the  most  noted  places  on  the 
river.  About  the  year  1801,  a band  of 
river  pirates,  under  the  command  of  an 
outlaw  named  Mason,  made  this  their 
headquarters,  whence  they  sallied  forth 
to  rob  and  murder  passing  boatmen. 
The  Governor  of  Mississippi  put  a price 
of  |500  on  Mason’s  head.  One  of  the 
band,  named  Harpe,  turned  traitor,  shot 
Mason,  cut  off  his  head,  and  carried  it  to 
the  capital,  where  he  was  paid  the  re- 
ward. 

Elizal>etlatowii,  111.  (877 
miles),  the  capital  of  Hardin  County,  is 
in  the  neighborhood  of  rich  lead-mines. 

MolcondLa,  111.  (890  miles),  the 
capital  of  Pope  County,  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  Lusk  Creek. 

Smifliland,  My.  (908  miles), 
used  to  have  some  importance  as  a ship- 
ping-port, but  this  is  declining,  on  ac- 
count of  the  channel  changing  to  the 
other  side  of  the  river.  It  is  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Cumberland  River. 

Madwcala,  My.  (920  miles),  the 
capital  of  McCracken  County,  derives  its 
name  from  an  Indian  chief  who  once  re- 
sided in  this  vicinity.  It  has  a large  ex- 
port shipping-trade  in  tobacco,  pork, 
mules,  horses,  etc.  A fine  range  of  ware- 


jSlETiiOPOLis  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Grand  Tower. 


houses  fronts  the  river.  During  the  civil 
war,  Paducah  was  a place  of  considerable 
importance,  from  its  position  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Tennessee  River. 

Metropolis  City,  SO.  (929 
miles),  is  the  capital  of  Massac  County. 
At  the  time  of  “Aaron  Burr’s  conspir- 
acy^” the  troops  sent  by  the  Govern- 
ment to  frustrate  his  plans  built  a fort 
two  mile  above,  where  the  village  now 
stands,  and  named  it  Fort  Massac.  There 
is  nothing  now  left  to  mark  the  spot. 

Ca^ledonia,  Bll.  (951  miles),  the 
capital  of  Pulaski  County,  is  a small  vil- 
lage. 

Moiiiad.  City,  SlI.  (959  miles),  is 
the  site  of  the  United  States  River  Navy- 
Yard.  It  is  six  miles  above  Cairo,  and 
eight  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

Ca>iro,  Sll.  (967  miles),  the  capital 
of  Alexander  County,  is  situated  upon 
the  point  of  land  formed  by  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers, 
and  is  the  southernmost  point  of  the 
State.  Though  always  recognized  as  an 
important  position,  and  one  destined  to 
become  the  site  of  a large  city,  the  dis- 
advantages which  stood  as  barriers  in 
the  way  of  private  enterprise,  and  the 
exceptionally  unhealthy  character  of  the 
locality,  frustrated  all  attempts  at  build- 
ing up  a town  upon  a spot  subject  to  in- 
undation at  any  flood  of  either  of  the  two 
great  rivers.  The  prosperity  the  X)kce 
dates  from  the  completion  of  the  Illinois 
Central  Railway.  The  company  built  a 
levee,  which  acts  as  a barrier  against  the 
water,  and  made  other  important  im- 
provements. On  the  7th  of  August,  1855, 
the  first  train  of  cars  reached  the  city. 
In  1850,  the  population  was  242;  it  is 
now  between  12,000  and  15,000.  Every 
steamer  plying  between  places  on  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  or  between 
ports  upon  the  Upper  and  Lower  Missis- 
sippi, stops  at  Cairo  to  receive  and  dis- 
charge freight  and  passengers.  The 
buildings  erected  by  the  General  Urovern- 
mcnt,  and  the  county  buildings,  are  large 
and  handsome,  especially  the  Custom- 
house^  which  is  of  cut  stone,  and  cost 
about  $200,000.  During  the  civil  war, 
Cairo  was  an  important  depot  of  supplies. 
A steam-packet,  plying  between  Colum- 
bus, Ky.,  and  Cairo,  forms  the  connecting 
link  in  the  chain  of  railway  comrauui- 
172 


cation  by  the  Mobile  dt  Ohio  and  Illinois 
Central  Railways  between  New  Orleans 
and  Chicago. 

Commerce,  Mo.  (995  miles), 
owes  its  importance  as  a shipping-port  to 
the  country  behind  it,  which  is  noted  for 
breeding  remarkably  fine  cattle.  The 
Mississippi  bottom  at  this  point  is  broad 
and  fertile,  but,  being  subject  to  inunda- 
tions, the  towns  are  generally  built  far 
back  upon  the  highlands  or  bluffs,  the 
steamer  landings  being  mere  hamlets, 
serving  as  ports  for  the  settlements  in 
their  rear. 

Tlietoes,  Bll.  (1,001  miles),  was 
formerly  the  capital  of  Alexander  County, 
but  since  that  has  been  removed  to  Cairo, 
the  village  is  only  a shipping-point. 

Csape  Girardeau,  Mo.  (1,010 
miles),  is  the  seat  of  St.  Vincent’s  College. 
It  is  situated  in  a rich  county,  extensively 
cultivated.  The  county,  bearing  the  same 
name,  was  settled  in  1794,  by  the  French 
and  Germans. 

'^Villard’s  B^aadiag*,  Bll. 

(1,025  miles),  is  noted  for  its  large  annual 
shipments  of  grain.  This  port,  which  is 
situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
Great  American  Bottom,  which  extends 
north  to  beyond  St.  Louis,  is  also  the 
shipping-point  for  Jonesboro  (described 
in  Route  I.  of  Illinois). 

BBeviFs  TTea-TaWe  and  Cor- 
nice BSoclcs  (1,026  miles)  are  the 
names  given  to  some  portions  of  the 
bluffs  where  the  water  has  worn  the 
rocks  into  regular  shapes,  representing 
continuous  rows  of  cornice-work,  and 
other  curious  architectural  devices. 

drand.  'B’ower,  Bll.  (1,039 
miles),  is  a large,  massive  rock,  rising 
nearly  50  feet  from  the  river.  It  is  cir- 
cular in  form,  and  the  river,  which  is 
very  rapid,  rushes  around  its  base  with 
tremendous  force.  At  this  point  there 
are  gigantic  ranges  of  rocks  rising  to  a 
great  height  on  both  sides  of  the  river  ; 
the  “ Tower  ” being  a portion  which  has 
been  detached  by  the  action  of  the  cur- 
rent. Before  the  introduction  of  steam- 
ers, this  place  was  dreaded  by  boatmen 
more  than  any  other  on  the  river,  as  the 
only  way  in  which  they  could  ascend 
with  their  boats  was  to  tow  them  with 
ropes  from  the  Illinois  shore.  While  thus 
engaged,  the  crews  were  often  attacked 


Chester.] 


ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  GATES,  TOUR  III.  [Missouri  Riyer, 


by  the  Indians,  who  would  lie  in  w’ait  for 
them,  murder  them,  and  capture  the 
boats,  and  the  often-valuable  cargoes. 
Opposite  the  “ Tower,”  on  the  Illinois 
shore,  is  a village  of  the  same  name, 
which  is  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Mount  Carbon  Branch  of  the  Iliinois 
Central  Railwaii^  connecting  with  the 
main  line  at  Garbondale. 

Cfiester,  111.  (1,073  miles),  the 
capital  of  Randolph  County,  is  a thriving 
village,  situated  about  one  mile  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Ka^lcaskia  River ^ a large 
navigable  stream. 

111.  (1,088  miles), 
is  handsomely  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  seven 
miles  from  its  mouth,  and  some  two 
milcrs  east  of  the  Mississippi  River.  It 
is  the  oldest  town  in  Illinois,  and  perhaps 
in  the  West,  it  having  been  settled  by 
the  French  in  1673.  It  was  the  capital 
of  the  Territory  from  the  time  of  the  or- 
ganization of  the  latter,  to  1818. 

§4.  Genevieve,  Mo.  (1,089 
miles),  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  exports  large  quantities  of  copper, 
lead,  limestone,  and  white  sand,  the  latter 
being  used  in  the  manufacture  of  glass 
at  Pittsburg.  It  is  an  old  town,  having 
been  settled  by  the  French  in  1765. 

Ilc2TCM.laiteii.iai,  Mo.  (1,116 
miles),  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Jeffer- 
son County,  and  a great  market  for  the 
lead  procured  from  the  mines  in  the  vi- 
cinity. In  1844  it  was  almost  entirely 
destroyed  by  a flood. 

St.  BLiOiiis,  Mo.  (1,149  miles), 
(See  page  46.) 


LANDINGS. 

La  Mine  Eiver,  Mo. 

Arrow  Eock,  Mo. 

Glasgow,  Mo 16 

Chariton  Eiver,  Mo 3 

Old  Jefferson,  Mo T 

Brunswick,  Mo 25 

Grand  Eiver,  Mo 2 

Waverley,  Mo 52 

Lexington,  Mo 26 

Sibley,  Mo 86 

Liberty  Landing,  Mo, 

Wayne  City,  Mo 6 

Eandolph,  Mo T 

Kansas,  Mo. 

Kansas  Eiver 
Wyandotte,  Kan.  , 

Parkville,  Mo 15 

Little  Platte  Eiver,  lo. 

Leavenwortli,  Kan 22 

Weston,  Mo 8 

Kickapoo  City,  Kan 10 

Atchison,  Kah 

St.  Joseph,  Mo 35 

Nodeway  City,  Mo 19 

Iowa  Point,  Mo 15 

White  Cloud,  Kan 10 

Brown ville,  Neb 53 

Nebraska  City,  Neb. 

Eoek  Bluff;  Neb 35 

Bethlehem,  Iowa 5 

Plattsmouth,  Neb 

Platte  Eiver,  Neb. 

California  City,  Iowa 

Bellevue,  Neb 15 

Council  Bluffs,  Iowa  ( - 

Omaha,  Neb.  j 

Florence,  Neb 10 

Fort  Calhoun,  Neb 10 

De  Soto,  Neb, 15 

Tekama,  Neb 

Sioux  City,  Iowa 

Fort  Vermilion,  I).  T. 

Fort  Eandall,  D.  T. . . 

Fort  Lookout,  I).  T. . 

Fort  Pierre 

Yellowstone  Eiver. . . 

Fort  Union 

Fort  Benton 

Great  Falls 40 

Gates  of  the  Eocky  Mountains 110 

Som-ce  of  the  Missom-i 441 


. 6 

235 

. 6 

241 

. 16 

257 

. 3 

260 

. T 

267 

. 25 

292 

. 2 

294 

. 52 

346 

. 26 

372 

. 86 

408 

. 29 

437 

6 

443 

. T 

450 

. 7 

457 

. 15 

472 

. 2 

474 

. 22 

496 

. 8 

504 

. 10 

514 

. IT 

531 

. 35 

566 

. 19 

591 

606 

. 10 

616 

,.  53 

669 

. 80 

719 

. 35 

754 

. 5 

759 

. 1 

760 

. 3 

763 

7T8i 

. 15 

793' 

. 10 

803 

. 10 

813 

828 

. 30 

858 

. 60 

918 

997 

56 

1,053 

. 100 

1,153 

,.  150 

1.303 

. 570 

1,873 

2,108 

. 400 

2,508 

,.  40 

2,548 

. 110 

2,658 

. . 441 

3,099 

TOUR  III. 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  GATES  OF  TILE 
ROCKY  MO  UKTAINS:' 

Via  Afissowri  River, 


LANDINGS.  MILES. 


St.  Louis,  Mo 

Mouth  Missouri  Eiver 

20 

20 

St.  Charles,  Mo 

25 

45 

Washington,  Mo 

84 

Hermann,  Mo 

36 

120 

Gasconade  Eiver,  Mo 

6 

126 

Formosa,  Mo.  [ 

Osage  Eiver  ) 

39 

165 

Jefferson  City,  Mo 

Providence,  Mo 

9 

174 

204 

Eocheport,  Mo 

13 

217 

Old  Franklin,  Mo.  [ 
Booneville,  Mo.  j 

229 

THE  MISSOURI  RIVER. 

The  restless,  turbid  waters  of  the 
Missouri  River  flow  fretfully,  3,099  miles 
from  their  sources  in  the  remote  West, 
to  their  union  with  the  Mississippi.  The 
entire  length  of  the  river,  including  its 
course  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  the  Mis- 
sissipi  (1,272  miles  more),  is  4,371  miles. 
The  head-waters  of  the  Missouri  are  very 
near  the  springs  which  find  their  way  to 
the  Pacific  through  the  channels  of  the 
Columbia  River.  Their  course  is  north- 
'ward  for  600  miles,  until  they  reach  the ' 
remarkable  cataracts  known  as  the  Great 
Falls.  Before  their  arrival  there,  how- 
173 


Missouri  Riyer.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Missouri  River. 


ever,  and  at  a distance  of  411  miles  from 
their  source,  the  waters  make  the  passage 
of  the  bold  chasms  called  the  “ Gates  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.”  “ Here,  through 
a length  of  six  miles,  the  giant  rocks  rise 
perpendicularly  to  an  elevation  of  1,200 
feet.  The  dark  waters,  in  their  narrow 
bed,  wash  the  base  of  these  huge  walls 
so  closely,  that  not  a foothold  is  any- 
where to  be  found.  It  is  a ghostly  gorge 
on  the  sunniest  day,  but,  wdien  its  habit- 
ual gloom  is  deepened  by  the  shadow  of 
a stormy  sky,  its  solitude  grows  painfully 
impressive.  Let  a thunder-peal  rever- 
berate, as  often  happens,  in  a thousand 
wailing  voices  through  the  rocky  wind- 
ings of  this  glen,  and  let  the  blackness 
of  darkness  be  increased  by  the  vanished 
gleams  of  the  lightning-flash,  and  you 
think  you  have  left  this  fair  world  far 
behind  you.” 

The  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri  are 
situated  2,548  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
40  miles  above  Port  Benton.  The  de- 
scent of  the  swift  river,  at  this  point,  is 
357  feet  in  13|  miles.  The  falls  embrace 
four  cascades,  the  first  of  which  is  26 
feet,  the  next  27  feet,  a third  of  19  feet, 
and  a fourth,  and  lowest,  of  87  feet.  Be- 
tween and  below  these  cataracts  there 
are  stretches  of  angry  rapids.  This  pas- 
sage is  one  of  extreme  beauty  and  gran- 
deur, and  at  some  day,  not  very  distant, 
perhaps,  when  these  Western  wilds  shall 
be  covered  with  cities,  and  towns,  and 
peaceful  hamlets,  this  spot  will  be  one  of 
no  less  eager  pilgrimage  than  many  far 
less  imposing  scenes  are  now.  The  falls 
of  the  Missouri  are  esteemed,  by  the  few 
tourists  whose  good  fortune  it  has  been 
to  look  upon  these  wonders,  as  holding 
rank  scarcely  below  the  cataracts  of 
Niagara.  The  best,  and,  indeed,  the  only 
travelled  approach  is  by  boat  from  St. 
Louis,  or  Omaha,  during  the  “spring 
rise  ” in  the  Missouri,  to  Fort  Benton, 
2,508  miles,  and  thence  25  miles  by  land. 
Fort  Union,  400  miles  below  Fort  Benton, 
is  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  dur- 
ing the  summer  months. 

The  upper  waters  of  the  Missouri  flow 
through  a wild,  sterile  country,  and  below 
pass  vast  prairie  stretches.  Above  the 
River  Platte  the  open  and  prairie  char- 
acter of  the  country  begins  to  develop,  ex- 
tending quite  to  the  banks  of  the  river, 
174 


and  stretching  from  it  indefinitely  in 
naked  grass  plains,  where  the  traveller 
may  wander  for  days  without  seeing  either 
wood  or  water.  Beyond  Council  Bluffs, 
commences  a country  of  great  interest 
and  grandeur,  denominated  the  Upper 
Missouri,  It  is  composed  of  vast  and 
almost  boundless  grass  plains,  through 
which  run  the  Platte,  the  Yellowstone, 
and  the  other  rivers  of  this  ocean  of 
grass.  Buffalo,  elk,  antelope,  and  moun- 
tain-sheep, abound.  Lewis  and  Clark, 
and  other  travellers,  relate  having  seen 
here  large  and  singular  petrifactions, 
both  animal  and  vegetable.  On  the  top 
of  a hill  they  found  a petrified  skeleton 
of  a huge  fish,  forty-five  feet  in  length. 

The  peculiar  nature  of  the  soil  through 
which  the  Missouri  runs,  and  the  fearful 
power  of  its  swift  current,  render  prop- 
erty upon  its  banks  very  uncertain  and 
undesirable ; acres  of  land  are  carried 
away  at  a time,  and  houses,  bams,  trees, 
fences  and  crops,  disappear  in  the  seeth- 
ing flood  ; whole  towns  have  been  washed 
away,  and  the  inhabitants  forced  to  seek 
other  and  safer  homes. 

Navigation  is  very  dangerous  on  ac- 
count of  the  swift  current,  the  countless 
islands  and  sand-bars,  and  the  murderous 
“ snags  ” and  “ sawyers.”  A “ snag  ” is 
a tree  which,  when  washed  away  from 
the  bank,  floats  into  the  stream,  and  then 
partially  sinks ; the  roots  become  fast- 
ened in  the  bottom,  and  then  the  sharp 
stems,  rising  nearly  to  and  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  are  the  fatal  snags 
that  almost  instantly  sink  any  steamer 
striking  them.  They  always  lie  with 
their  sharp  ends  pointing  down  the 
stream,  and  consequently  are  dangerous 
principally  to  ascending  steamers.  When 
a steamer  is  descending  the  stream,  it 
slides  over  them,  instead  of  being  im- 
paled. They  are  then  known  as  “sawyers,” 
if  they  project  above  the  water — the 
current  giving  them  a waving  motion.  At 
a low  stage  of  water,  navigation  is  almost 
impossible,  and  it  is  said  that  an  old 
toper,  travelling  on  a steamer,  when  ask- 
ed why  he  drank  nothing  but  whiskey, 
said  that  he  felt  compelled  to,  as  every 
drop  of  water  in  the  river  was  required 
to  float  the  boat ! The  river  begins  to 
rise  in  March,  and  continues  till  July, 
when  the  summer  floods  of  its  remote 


Missouri  River.]  ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  GATES,  TOUR  III.  [Missouri  River. 


tributaries  come  in.  During  this  period 
there  is  sufficient  depth  of  water  for 
steamers  of  almost  any  class  ; but,  during 
the  remainder  of  the  year,  it  is  hardly 
navigable  for  any  distance,  for  the  small- 
est vessels  that  float  upon  the  Western 
waters. 

The  “ bottoms  ” of  the  Missouri  differ 
materially  from  those  of  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi, being  wider,  and  not  as  wet,  and 
having  smaller,  though  taller  and  straight- 
er  trees.  The  bluffs,  like  those  of  the 
other  river,  are  of  limestone,  but  are  not 
so  steep,  and  seem  more  inclined  to  the 
rounded,  semicircular  form. 

The  steamers  upon  this  river  are 
similar  to  those  described  in  the  trip 
down  the  Mississippi  (see  Lake  and  River 
Tour,  No.  I.),  and  the  manner  of  loading 
and  managing  them  is  the  same.  “ Wood- 
ing-up  ” has  not  been  described,  and,  as 
it  is  a feature  of  river-life,  a brief  sketch 
of  the  scene  may  not  be  out  of  place  : 

The  negroes  of  the  Missouri  are  hap- 
py specimens  of  God’s  image  done  up  in 
ebony,  and  in  many  lighter  colors,  and 
they  have  frequently  a deserved  repu- 
tation as  “ deck-hands.”  It  is  surprising 
how  much  hard  work  they  will  perform, 
and  yet  retain  their  vivacity  and  spirits. 
They  take  a lively  personal  interest  in 
the  success  of  the  boat  on  which  they 
are  employed,  and  become  as  much  a 
part  of  the  propelling  machinery  as  the 
engines.  Their  custom  of  singing  at  all 
important  landings,  already  spoken  of, 
has  a pleasing  and  novel  effect,  and,  if 
stimulated  by  an  appreciative  audience, 
they  will  roll  forth  a volume  of  vocal 
sounds  that,  for  harmony  and  pathos,  far 
surpasses  the  best  performances  of  the 
so-called  “ negro-minstrels.” 

At  night,  when  the  “ old  ark  ” is  tied 
up,  they  love  a game  of  “ old  sledge,” 
with  the  accompaniment  of  a fiddle.  On 
such  occasions,  the  violinist  will  toucli 
off  the  “ Arkansas  Traveller,”  and  then, 
gradually  sliding  into  a “Virginia  break- 
down,” he  will  be  accompanied  by  a 
genuine  darkey,  keeping  time  on  the 
light  fantastic  heel-and-toe  tap.  It  is  an 
exciting  struggle  between  cat-gut  and 
human  muscle.  It  affects  not  only  the 
performers,  but  the  contagion  spreads  to 
the  spectators,  who  display  their  delight 
by  words  of  rough  encouragement  and 


laughter,  which  echo  along  the  otherwiso 
silent  shore. 

“ Wooding  up,”  however,  is  the  great 
glory  of  the  darkey  deck-hand.  On  a first- 
class  steamer  there  maybe  sixty  “ hands  ” 
engaged  in  this  physical  contest.  The 
passengers  extend  themselves  along  the 
guards  as  spectators,  and  present  a brill- 
iant array.  The  scene  is  lighted  up  by  a 
“ torch,”  not  such  a one  as  is  seen  in  our 
cities,  but  a huge  iron  bucket,  or  rather 
cage,  at  the  end  of  an  iron  rod,  projecting 
from  the  side  of  the  steamer,  and  filled 
with  blazing  wood  and  resin,  and  throw- 
ing a ruddy  glare  over  river,  steamer,  and 
shore.  The  performance  consists  in  pil- 
ing on  the  boat  a large  quantity  of  wood, 
in  the  shortest  possible  space  of  time. 
The  steam-boilers  seem  to  sympathize  at 
thq  sight  of  the  fuel,  and  occasionally 
breathe  forth  immense  sighs  of  admira- 
tion— the  pilot  increasing  the  noise  by 
performing  a solo  on  the  alarm-whistle. 
The  mate  of  the  boat,  for  want  of  some- 
thing better  to  do,  divides  his  time  be- 
tween such  exclamations  as  “ Oh,  bring 
them  shavings  along  ! ” “ Don’t  go  to  sleep 
at  this  frolic,”  and  swearing  such  terrible 
oaths,  that  even  good  men  are  puzzled  to 
decide  whether  he  is  really  profane,  or 
simply  ridiculous.  Upon  the  shoulders  of 
each  are  piled  innumerable  sticks  of  wood, 
which  are  thus  carried  from  the  land  into 
the  capacious  bowels  of  the  steamer.  The 
“last  loads”  are  shouldered  — the  final 
effort  to  carry  “ the  largest  pile  ” is  made. 
On  the  Mississippi,  where  navigation  is 
easier,  this  scene  is  often  varied  by  wood- 
ing up  while  in  motion.  In  this  case,  the 
wood  having  been  loaded  on  a flat-boat, 
the  moment  the  steamer  reaches  the  wood- 
yard,  the  wood-boat  is  made  fast  to  her, 
and  the  trip  is  resumed,  the  transfer  going 
on  at  the  same  time.  When  the  next  wood- 
yard  is  reached,  the  empty  boat  is  left  to 
be  filled,  and  taken  back  on  the  return- 
trip.  In  this  way  much  valuable  time  is 
saved. 

Since  the  completion  of  the  railways  to 
the  leading  places  along  the  river,  the 
hey-day  of  the  steamers  is  over.  The  con- 
quering railway  robs  them  of  nearly  all 
passengers  and  much  freight.  Gone  for- 
ever the  era  of  universal  racing,  with  its 
attendant  excitements — its  pet  steamers, 
high  wagers,  and  fierce  rivalry. 

175 


*St.  CnARLES.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Randolph. 


From  St.  Louis  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,  and  the  “ meeting  of  the  waters  ” 
at  that  point,  the  river  has  already  been 
described  in  the  trip  down  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi. We  will  commence  our  notes 
upon  the  trip  up  the  Missouri  at 

Cliarles,  Mo.  (45  miles),  the 
capital  of  St.  Charles  County.  It  is  a hand- 
some and  flourishing  place,  beautifully 
situated  on  an  elevation.  The  rocky  blulfs 
in  the  vicinity  afford  fine  views  of  the  ad- 
jacent rivers.  Quarries  of  limestone  and 
sandstone,  and  mines  of  stone-coal,  have 
been  opened  near  the  city.  St.  Charles 
contains  a college,  a court-house,  and  sev- 
eral churches.  Population,  about  5,000. 
W’asBiiiEtg’t.oii,  Mo.  (84  miles), 
Mo.  (120  miles), 

eoiiaile.  Mo.  (126  miles),  and  •9'el- 
iersoia  City,  Mo.  (IH  miles),  are 
all  stations  on  the  line  of  the  Pacific  Rail- 
way of  Missouri,  and  have  been  described 
in  Route  XVII.  {See  page  87.) 

^'oraiosa.  Mo.  (165  miles),  is  a 
small  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Osage 
River^  a stream  some  500  miles  long,  for 
200  of  which  it  is  navigable. 

The  country  on  both  sides  of  the  Mis- 
souri is  very  beautiful  between  its  mouth 
and  J eflerson  City,  especially  that  on  the 
left  bank,  which  is  finely  cultivated. 

l^B-oviclemce,  Mo.  (204  miles),  is 
the  landing  place  for  Columbia. 

Coliiml^ia,  Mo.,  the  capital  of 
Boone  County,  will  be  found  described  un- 
der the  heading  of  Route  I.  of  Missouri. 

ISoclaeport,  Mo.  (217  miles),  at 
the  mouth  of  Moniteau  CreeJc^  is  on  the 
line  of  a railway  now  building  from  Co- 
lumbia to  Kansas  City,  to  be  called  the 
Boone  County  Railway. 

BooiaevilSe,  Mo.  (227  miles),  a 
flourishing  town,  capital  of  Cooper  Coun- 
ty, owes  its  prosperity  and  importance  to 
its  advantages  as  a commercial  point.  It 
is  remarkably  healthful,  both  town  and 
country  having  escaped  the  ravages  of  the 
cholera  during  the  epidemic  of  1849-’50. 
It  is  situated  on  a bluff  100  feet  above 
high-water  mark,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
rich  farming  region.  The  grape  is  exten- 
sively cultivated  here.  Iron,  lead,  stone- 
coal,  marble,  and  hydraulic  limestone,  are 
abundant  in  the  vicinity.  The  place  was 
settled  by  Daniel  Boone,  the  celebrated 
pioneer  of  Kentucky. 

176 


Mine  Kiver,  Mo. (235  miles), 
a stream  of  remarkably  clear  Vv^atcr,  is 
navigable  for  30  miles. 

Arrow  ISoclc,  Mo.  (241  miles), 
occupies  a fine  position  150  feet  above 
the  river.  The  Indians  formerly  used  the 
stone  found  here  for  arrow-heads  ; hence 
the  name  of  the  place. 

Cwlasgow,  Mo.  (257  miles),  has  a 
large  trade,  being  the  principal  shipping- 
port  for  Howard  County.  It  contains 
several  churches  and  a female  seminary. 
Population,  about  1,500. 

CSiaritoia  Miver,  Mo.  (260 
miles),  is  150  miles  long,  but  is  only  navi- 
gable for  30  miles. 

•ffeiSfersom,  Mo.  (267  miles), 
is  a small  village.  A place  of  the  same 
name  formerly  stood  opposite  Glasgow, 
but  was  swallowed  up  by  the  river. 

Br  ULUS  wick:.  Mo.  (292  miles),  an 
enterprising  town  of  about  3,500  inhabi- 
tants, stands  on  a beautiful,  level  prairie. 
The  principal  buildings  are  of  brick. 
The  North  Missouri  Railway  connects 
here. 

Omnd  Kiver,  Mo.  (294  miles), 
is  a stream  240  miles  in  length,  for  100  of 
which  it  is  navigable.  It  is  the  boundary 
between  Carroll  and  Chariton  Counties. 

Waver ly.  Mo.  (346  miles),  is  an 
active  village,  laid  out  in  1843.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  2,000. 

Bexiag^ton,  Mo.  (372  miles),  the 
capital  of  Lafayette  County,  delightfully 
situated  300  feet  above  high-water  mark, 
is  one  of  the  oldest  and  was  formerly  one 
of  the  most  prosperous  places  in  the  State. 
It  is  connected  with  the  Missouri  Pacific 
Railway  by  a branch  of  that  road  which 
forms  a portion  of  a railway  now  building, 
to  cross  the  State  from  St.  Joseph  to  the 
southeast.  The  probable  effect  of  the 
completion  of  this  road  will  be  to  give 
the  place  a fresh  impetus. 

SiWey,  Mo.  (408  miles),  is  a village 
containing  the  former  site  of  Fort  Osage. 

Kiikcrty  Bsisicling,  Mo.  (437 
miles),  is  a landing-place  for  Liberty,  a 
station  on  the  North  Missouri  Railway^ 
four  miles  distant. 

WayBie  City,  Mo.  (443  miles),  is 
the  landing-place  for  Independence,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a railroad  four 
miles  long. 

Bandolpli,  Mo.  (450  miles),  is  a 


Kansas  City.]  ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  GATES,  TOUR  III. 


[Atchison. 


pretty  village  handsomely  situated  upon 
a commanding  eminence. 

Btansas  City,  Mo.,  and  Wy« 
aadotte,  B£as.  (45^7  miles),  are  de- 
scribed in  Route  XVII.  (See  page  89.) 

Kaatsas  Kiver  (457  miles)  is  one 
of  the  largest  affluents  of  the  Missouri. 
It  is  about  1,200  miles  long,  and  in  time 
of  high  water  is  navigable  for  some  900 
miles.  In  low  stages  of  water  it  is  full 
of  sand-bars  and  shoals. 

^PacliTille,  Mo.  (472  miles)  is  a 
shipping-point  of  some  importance.  Pop- 
ulation about  1,000. 

Spittle  ;Platte  River,  lo.  (474 
miles),  is  about  200  miles  long,  but  is  ex- 
ceedingly shallow  and  difficult  to  navigate. 

S^eaveawortli,  Mas.  (496 
miles),  the  largest  and  most  flourishing 
city  in  the  State,  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  river.  It  occu- 
pies a highly-advantageous  geographical 
position,  and  is  surrounded  by  one  of  the 
richest  agricultural  regions  in  the  valley 
of  the  Missouri.  The  river  flows  here 
with  a swift,  deep  current,  and  is  bor- 
dered on  the  Kansas  side  by  a natural 
levee  of  rock,  affording  excellent  land- 
ings. The  city  is  laid  out  in  rectangular 
blocks,  with  streets  extending  north  and 
south,  and  east  and  west.  The  principal 
streets  arc  macadamized  and  lighted  with 
gas.  In  1853  there  was  not  a roof,  a 
shanty,  nor  a single  human  being,  in  Leav- 
enw'orth.  Thick  hazel-brush  covered  its 
site,  and  the  wolves  roamed  unmolested. 
Now  it  has  20,665  inhabitants,  27  elegant 
schools  and  academies,  nearly  30  church- 
es, 200  saloons,  two  theatres,  seven  public 
halls,  and  two  jails ; hotels,  founderies, 
saw-mills,  machine-shops,  and  factories, 
are  everywhere  to  be  seen,  and  stores, 
rivalling  some  of  the  best  in  the  East,  are 
daily  crowded  with  eager  purchasers. 
The  educational  facilities  are  admirable, 
and  the  local  press  is  enterprising,  being 
represented  by  gentlemen  of  unusual  in- 
telligence and  ability.  Leavenworth  is  the 
headquarters  for  outfitting  Government 
supply-trains  for  Western  fbrts,  and  also 
of  an  immense  trade  with  the  Territories. 
It  is  well  worth  while  for  the  tourist  to 
walk  to  the  fort  and  government  farm. 
The  latter  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
productive  in  the  country. 

The  importance  of  Leavenworth  as  a 


commercial  centre  is  due  in  a great  meas- 
ure to  its  direct  railway  connections  with 
all  parts  of  the  country.  Extensive  ar- 
rangements are  now  being  made  for  the 
construction  of  new  roads. 

The  Kansas  City^  St,  Joseph  c&  Council 
Bluffs  Railway  connects  here.  An  iron 
railway-bridge  has  been  built  across  the 
Missouri  at  this  point. 

Fort  Leavenworth^  situated  on  a bluff 
150  feet  high,  two  miles  from  Leaven- 
worth City,  was  established  in  1827, 
and  until  the  building  of  the  Pacific 
Railway  was  the  grand  depot  of  sup- 
plies for  all  the  Western  posts.  The 
Government  reservation,  which  extends 
for  six  miles  along  the  river  and  one 
back,  affords  good  landings  for  steam- 
boats. The  Government  buildings,  con- 
sisting of  barracks  for  the  troops,  a hos- 
pital, store-houses,  officers’  quarters,  sta- 
bles, barns,  etc.,  etc.,  are  large  and  well 
built.  The  parade-ground  is  remarkably 
handsome.  Connected  Avith  the  fort  is 
stabling  for  8,000  horses  and  1 5,000  mules. 

^Vcstoia,  Mo.  (504  miles),  a very 
flourishing  place,  containing  several 
churches,  printing  offices,  etc.,  isv  a sta- 
tion on  the  Kansas  City^  St  Joseph  d: 
Council  Bluffs  Railway, 

Rickapoo  City,  Ras.  (514 
miles),  receives  its  name  from  the  Kick- 
apoo  Indians,  who  formerly  dwelt  in  this 
part  of  Kansas.  It  is  the  place  where 
the  convention  met  which  made  the  ar- 
rangements for  the  election  of  a delegate 
to  Washington  to  urge  upon  Congress  the 
organization  of  the  Territories  of  Kansas 
and  Nebraska,  September  20,  1853. 

Atckisoia,  Ra§.  (531  miles),  is 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Missouri.  It  was  first  settled  by 
the  famous  Buford  Company  of  South 
Carolinians,  who,  under  Stringfellow, 
made  it  their  headquarters.  Subsequent- 
ly Pomeroy,  the  agent  of  the  New-Eng- 
land  Emigrant  Aid  Company,  obtained 
possession  of  the  place  by  strategy,  buy- 
ing up  its  newspaper,  and  throwing  a 
force  of  free-State  men  into  the  town 
during  the  night.  The  troubles  were 
finally  settled  by  Pomeroy  and  Stringfel- 
low uniting  their  resources,  and  buying  up 
the  place  on  speculation,  and,  as  it  has 
developed  wonderfully  since  then,  they 
have  both  grown  immensely  rich.  The 


St.  Joseph.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Fort  Benton. 


former  is  now  United  States  Senator  from 
Kansas,  and  when  not  in  Washington  re- 
sides in  Atchison,  and  the  latter  also 
lives  here  in  affluence. 

Atchison  is  situated  at  the  extreme 
point  of  the  “ Great  Western  BeruV'*  of 
the  Missouri  River,  and  is  therefore  the 
most  interior  city  in  Kansas  on  the  river. 

There  are  numerous  churches  in  the 
place.  The  educational  facilities  are  good, 
and  the  school-houses  substantial  and 
elegant.  The  new  central  school-build- 
ing is  the  largest  and  handsomest  in  the 
State.  Atchison  has  many  advantages, 
naturally  and  locally,  as  a great  manufac- 
turing centre.  It  has  flouring-mills,  plan- 
ing-mills,  a large  furniture-manufactory, 
three  banks,  and  several  good  hotels. 
It  is  the  great  railway  centre  of  the 
State,  or  will  be  when  the  other  roads 
now  building  are  completed.  It  is  the 
terminus  of  the  Central  Branch  of  the 
Union  Pacific^  and  also  the  terminus  of  the 
Missouri  Pacific  Railway,  It  is  connected 
with  the  Hannibal  & St.  Joseph  Railway 
by  the  Kansas  City^  St.  Joseph  & Council 
Bluffs  Railway^  and  is  to  be  the  terminus 
of  the  Atchison  6c  Nebraska  Railway^  now 
building. 

Mo.  (566  miles), 
has  been  described  in  Route  XVI.  {See 
page  86.) 

Nodaway  City,  Mo.  (591 
miles),  is  a small  village,  and  the  landing- 
place  for  Savannah. 

Browiaville,  Nel>.  (669  miles), 
the  capital  of  Nemaha  County,  was  incor- 
porated as  a city  in  1864.  It  stands  on 
an  elevation  of  from  30  to  40  feet  above 
the  water,  and  is  enclosed  on  all  sides, 
except  the  east,  by  bluffs. 

Ne'S>rasls:a  City,  Nei>.  (719 
miles),  the  capital  of  Otoe  County,  has 
an  extensive  trade.  There  are  valuable 
salt-springs  in  the  vicinity. 

Roclc  Nei>.  (754  miles), 

is  situated  in  a valley  about  one  mile 
from  the  river.  On  two  sides  it  is 
bounded  by  steep  hills. 

Plattsmoutli,  Nel>.  (760  miles), 
the  capital  of  Cass  County,  is  beautifully 
situated  on  a high  bank,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  fine  timber  and  coal. 

IMatte  Itiver,  Nel>.  (763  miles), 
is  over  2,000  miles  long,  and  in  its  course 
waters  the  great  valley  of  that  name, 
178 


through  which  the  Union  Pacific  Railway 
extends,  and  of  which  a description  is 
given  in  Route  XVIII.  (/Seepage 87.)  At 
its  junction  with  the  Missouri,  it  presents 
the  appearance  of  a large  navigable 
stream,  but  its  shallows  and  sand-bars 
prevent  any  boat  navigating  its  waters. 

ISellevtie,  Neli.  (778  miles),  is  a 
place  which  is  intimately  connected  with 
the  early  history  of  the  West.  Lewis  and 
Clark  landed  here  in  1804,  and  soon  af- 
terward the  American  Fur  Company  es- 
tablished a trading-post  at  this  point. 
Passing  up  the  river,  the  tourist  will  ob- 
serve the  old  building  still  standing  on 
the  river-bank  where  once  congregated 
thousands  of  warlike  red-skins,  and  on  the 
bluff  above  are  the  graves  of  many  of 
their  chiefs,  whose  spirits  their  descend- 
ants believe  still  watch  over  this  their 
favorite  resort. 

Council  Ulnir^,  lo.  (793  miles), 
has  been  described  in  Route  XII.  {See 
page  74.) 

Omnlin,  Nel>.(793  miles),  has  been 
described  in  Route  XVIII.  {See  page  95.) 

I'lorence,  Nel>.  (803  miles),  a 
small  village,  was  first  settled  in  1847. 

^ioux  City,  lo.  (918  miles), 
the  capital  of  W oodbury  County,  is  the 
largest  town  above  Omaha,  and  bids  fair 
to  become  a great  city.  It  is  the  termi- 
nus of  the  Sioux  City  & Pacific  Railway^ 
and  of  the  Iowa  Division  of  the  Illinois 
Central  Railway.  The  St.  Paul  <Sc  Sioux 
City  Railway  will  also  terminate  here,  and 
a road  to  Yankton  is  now  building. 

Ya.nk:ton,  1>.  T.,  the  capital  of 
the  Territory,  will  soon  be  connected  with 
civilization  by  a railway. 

After  passing  Yankton,  the  traveller 
finds  a great  tract  of  country  on  either 
side  of  the  river,  possessing  the  same 
features  of  wide  bottom-land  on  the  one 
side  and  bluffs  on  the  other.  Occasion- 
ally a few  Indians  are  seen,  who  were 
once  a terror  to  voyageurs  in  Mackinaw 
boats,  which  descended  the  stream  every 
spring  laden  with  robes  and  furs.  Herds 
of  buffalo,  elk,  and  deer,  are  frequently 
seen.  The  sameness  of  every  day’s  voy- 
aging is  relieved  by  calls  at  the  Govern- 
ment posts  of  Fort  Rice,  Pierre  Berthold, 
and  other  forts,  until  we  reach 

Fort  Beiatou  (2,508  miles),  the 
head  of  navigation. 


STATES  AND  TERRITOEIES.— LOCAL  ROUTES. 


on 

Ohiq^  the  third  State  in  the  ITnion  in 
population  and  wealth,  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Lake  Erie  and  a part  of  Michi- 
gan ; on  the  east  by  Pennsylvania ; on 
the  southeast  by  West  Virginia  ; on  the 
south  by  Kentucky  ; and  on  the  west  by 
Indiana.  The  greatest  length  from  north 
to  south  is  200  miles,  and  the  greatest 
width  from  east  to  west  is  195  miles,  the 
area  being  39,964  square  miles.  There 
are  no  mountains  in  Ohio,  but  the  land, 
toward  the  centre  of  the  State,  is  1,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  first  permanent 
white  settlement  in  the  State  was  made 
at  Marietta,  on  the  'Zth  of  April,  1Y88, 
and,  in  1802,  Ohio  was  organized  as  a 
Territory.  For  many  years  the  Indians 
were  very  troublesome,  but  were  finally 
conquered  in  I'ZOl,  by  General  Anthony 
Wayne. 

The  dividing  line  between  the  waters 
flowing  toward  Lake  Erie,  and  those  run- 
ning into  the  Ohio,  is  a ridge,  extending 
from  east  to  west,  and  lying  nearer  to  the 
lake  than  to  the  river,  thus  giving  great- 
er length  and  volume  to  the  streams  run- 
ning southward  than  to  those  to  the 
north.  The  State  was  originally  well 
timbered,  but  many  of  the  forests  have 
been  felled,  to  make  way  for  bustling 
towns  and  fields  of  grain.  The  bitu- 
minous coal-fields  of  Pennsylvania  and 
Kentucky  extend  into  Ohio,  covering  an 
area  of  11,900  square  miles,  and  em- 
bracing 20  counties.  The  coal-region 
commences  at  the  Ohio  River^  and  ex- 
tends nearly  to  Lake  Erie,  occupying  the 
belt  of  land  between  the  Scioto  and  Mus~ 


10. 

Icingum  Rivers.  Iron  is  abundant  and  of 
a superior  quality,  and  with  each  year  is 
developed  more  and  more,  adding  con- 
tinually to  the  wealth  of  the  State,  and 
to  its  importance  as  the  seat  of  large 
manufactories.  Salt-springs  are  numer- 
ous, and  marble,  lime,  and  building-stone 
abound. 

At  different  points  around  Lake  Erie, 
persons,  in  sinking  wells,  have  met  with 
inflammable  gas,  and  this  has  happened 
at  several  places  in  Ohio.  Captain  John 
Spaulding,  of  Rockport,  knowing  this 
fact,  concluded  that,  by  sinking  a tube  to 
a sufficient  depth,  gas  could  be  found 
anywhere  along  the  northern  margin  of 
the  State,  and  that,  as  at  Erie,  Pa.,  cities 
might  be  lighted,  and  heat  supplied  for 
all  manufacturing  purposes.  He  tried 
the  experiment  at  Cleveland,  and  com- 
menced work  there  on  the  30th  of  Janu- 
ary, 18Y1.  On  the  6th  of  March,  while 
the  men  were  drilling,  they  heard  a roar- 
ing noise  and,  a moment  after,  a stream 
of  water  rose  some  4 feet  high  above  the 
tubing : this  was  followed  by  gas,  which, 
when  lighted,  produced  a constant  white 
flame,  about  8 feet  in  height.  The  well, 
at  that  time,  was  560  feet  deep,  but  it 
will  be  sunk  100  feet  deeper,  with  a view 
to  procuring  'a  constant  and  unlimited 
supply  of  gas,  for  illuminating  and  heat- 
ing purposes.  It  is  known  that  a bi- 
tuminous shale,  350  feet  thick,  underlies 
the  soil  from  Huron,  Ohio,  to  Buffalo, 
Kew  York,  and,  it  is  believed  that,  where- 
ever  it  exists,  gas  can  be  found. 

The  climate  is  varied,  the  temperature 
179 


Ohio.] 


AVESTERN  TOUR. 


[Little  Miami. 


being  quite  wami  in  the  southern  portion 
of  the  State,  while  in  the  north  it  is  simi- 
lar to  that  in  the  same  latitude  on  the 
Atlantic  coast. 

The  soil  is  generally  rich  and  highly 
cultivated,  and  the  products  varied  and 
abundant.  Wool  is  one  of  the  staples  of 
Ohio,  and  the  quantity  annually  exported 
is  very  large.  Wine,  too,  is  an  impor- 
tant article  of  export  and  home  use,  the 
vineyards  near  Cincinnati,  and  those  of 
Put4n-Bay  Islands^  being  noted  for  the 
fine  flavor  and  good  quality  of  the  wine 
produced  from  the  grapes.  The  forest- 
trees  of  Ohio  are  of  many  kinds.  Ever- 
greens do  not  flourish  in  the  State,  but 
hickory,  oak,  maple,  buckeye,  and  other 
trees,  come  to  great  perfection. 

The  State  is  divided  into  88  counties. 
The  popidation  in  1800  was  45,365,  and 
by  the  late  census,  2,662,681.  Columbus, 
the  State  capital  {see  page  26),  has  a 
population  of  31,336 ; Cincinnati,  the 
largest  city,  the  eighth  in  population  in 
the  Union,  has  218,900  inhabitants ; 
Cleveland  has  over  93,000  inhabitants, 
and  Toledo,  Dayton,  Zanesville,  Hamilton, 
and  Sandusky,  are  large  and  populous 
cities.  The  total  valuation  of  real  and 
personal  property  in  the  State  is  given  by 
the  census  of  1870  as  $1,512,438,886, 
against  $959,867,101  in  1860. 

Though  very  beautiful,  the  scenery 
of  Ohio  is  lacking  in  grandeur,  the  near- 
est approach  to  it  being  the  bold  bluffs 
of  the  Ohio  River ; but  there  is  much 
that  is  picturesque  and  of  interest  to  the 
tourist : such  as  the  Indian  mound  near 
Marietta,  the  ruins  of  Fort  Ancient, 
Clark’s  Works  in  Ross  County;  the  sub- 
terranean lake  at  Bryan,  in  Williams 
County ; the  falls  of  many  of  the  rivers  ; 
the  mineral  springs  at  Delaware;  the 
pyramidal  rock  at  Lancaster;  the  old 
fortifications  at  Circleville;  the  large 
spring  at  Castalia;  and  the  Yellow  Sul- 
phur Springs  {see  page  41),  with  the 
charming  falls  of  the  Miami  near  by. 

The  railways  and  canals  by  which 
Ohio  is  traversed  in  every  direction  are 
so  numerous  that  every  town  of  any  size 
in  the  State  has  a ready  means  of  com- 
munication with  the  rest  of  the  world, 
while  the  products  of  the  soil,  the  mines, 
and  the  manufactories,  easily  find  their 
way  to  market. 

180 


Ohio  is  rapidly  becoming  a great  manu- 
facturing State.  In  the  year  ending  No- 
vember 30,  1870,  there  were  107  manu- 
facturing companies  incorporated.  The 
following  are  the  statistics  of  the  iron 
business  during  that  year : Pig-iron  manu- 
factured, 211,074  tons.  Of  this,  74,221 
tons  were  smelted  with  charcoal,  and 
136,853  tons  with  stone-coal.  Bar  and 
nail  iron,  27,685  tons  ; nails  8,271  tons  ; 
hoop-iron,  498  tons ; sheet-iron,  648 
tons;  stoves,  8,631  tons;  car-wheels, 
3,607  tons;  other  castings,  10,711  tons; 
spikes  and  railroad-chairs,  706  tons ; 
railroad-iron,  9,167  tons. 

EIYEES,  ETC. 

Ohio  is  well  watered,  but  has  few  navi- 
gable rivers. 

Tlae  Oihio  Miver,  forming  most 
of  its  eastern  and  all  of  its  southern 
boundary,  has  been  fully  described,  with 
all  its  landings  of  any  importance. 

5&iTer  is  formed 
by  the  Tuscarawas  and  Walhandung  Riv- 
e7'Sj  which  take  their  rise  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  State  and  meet  at  Coshocton. 
It  is  navigable  by  means  of  dams  and 
locks  as  far  as  Zanesville  (70  miles),  and 
in  high  stages  of  the  water  as  far  as  Cos- 
hocton (100  miles). 

Scioto  Kivep  rises  in  Hardin 
County,  and,  after  running  200  miles, 
empties  into  the  Ohio  at  Portsmouth.  It 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Olerdangy^  at 
Columbus,  and  has,  besides,  many  other 
tributaries. 

XSocking’  River,  which  rises  in 
Fairfield  County,  is  80  miles  long,  empty- 
ing into  the  Ohio  at  Troy.  It  is  navi- 
gable for  small  boats  as  far  as  Athens. 
The  falls  of  the  Hocking  are  seven  miles 
above  Lancaster,  the  river  leaping  a 
ledge  of  rock  40  feet  high.  Above  the 
falls  the  shape  of  the  river  resembles  a 
bottle,  hence  its  Indian  name,  “ Hock- 
hocking.” 

Spittle  Miitmi  River,  of  great 
value  as  a mill-stream,  is  noted  for  its 
beauty.  About  70  miles  from  its  mouth 
at  Clifton^  near  Yellow  Springs^  in  a 
short  distance  it  falls  200  feet,  cutting 
for  itself  a deep  and  narrow  path  through 
the  solid  limestone.  These  falls,  together 
with  the  springs,  form  the  most  attractive 
resort  in  the  State,  excepting  perhaps 


Great  Miami.] 


OHIO. 


[Toledo 


Piit-in-Bay  Islands.  There  are  several 
good  hotels  at  the  springs,  the  principal 
being  the  Keff  House^  and  there  is  a park 
of  300  acres  of  l3eautiful  woodland, 
through  which  a clear  stream  tumbles  in 
a series  of  romantic  cascades.  The 
“ Cascade,’'  “ Cliffs,”  “ Glen,”  “ Lover’s 
Leap,”  and  “Pompey’s  Pillar,”  are 
among  the  most  noted  spots  at  the 
Springs.  The  “ Iron  Spring  ” discharges 
102  gallons  a minute,  and  there  are  five 
other  chalybeate  springs.  The  sulphur 
well  is  70  feet  deep. 

Oreat  Miami  Mivcr  rises  in 
Hardin  County,  near  the  source  of  the 
Scioto.  Although  not  navigable,  it  is  a 
stream  of  great  importance,  running 
through  a rich  country,  and  furnishing 
an  immense  water-power.  For  some 
distance  it  is  the  boundary  between 
Ohio  and  Indiana. 

Maumee  Mivei*,  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  8t.  Joseph's  and  St,  Mary's 
Jiivers  at  Fort  Wayne,  Indiana,  crosses 
the  northwestern  corner  of  Ohio,  at 
Toledo,  80  miles  from  its  head.  It  is 
navigable  to  Defiance,  Ohio  (60  miles),  by 
small  boats,  and  in  times  of  high  water 
by  those  of  larger  size.  For  18  miles  it 
is  navigable  for  lake-steamers. 

The  other  rivers  of  Ohio,  emptying 
into  Lake  Erie,  are  only  navigable  at 
their  mouths. 

M O UTB  I. 

CINCINNATI  TO  TOLEDO, 

Via  Cincinnati^  Hamilton  (&  Dayton^  Day- 
ton  <&  Michigan^  and  Cincinnati^  liich- 
mond  <&  Chicago  Railways, 

Stations. — Cincinnati  — Cumminsville, 
5 miles ; Marietta  & Cincinnati  Junction 
(connects  with  Marietta  and  Cincinnati 
Kailway),  7 ; Carthage,  10 ; Lockland, 
12  ; Glendale,  15  ; Jones’s,  19  ; Hamilton 
(connects  with  Cincinnati,  Richmond  & 
(Chicago,  and  Cincinnati  & Indianapolis 
Junction  Railways),  25 ; Busenbark’s, 
81 ; Trenton,  33 ; Middletown,  37 ; Poast 
Town,  40 ; Carlisle,  44  ; Miamisburg,  49  ; 
Carrolton,  52;  Dayton  (connects  with 
Cincinnati,  Sandusky  & Cleveland,  At- 
lantic & Great  Western  Division  of  Erie, 
Dayton  & Union,  Dayton  & Western,  and 
Little  Miami  Railways),  60  ; Tippecanoe, 


74 ; Troy,  80 ; Piqua  (connects  with 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Rail- 
way), 88 ; Sidney  (connects  with  Cleve- 
land, Columbus,  Cincinnati  & Indianapo- 
lis Railway),  100;  Anna,  106;  Wapako- 
neta,  119;  Lima  (connects  with  Pitts- 
burg, Fort  Wayne  & Chicago  Railway), 
131;  Columbus  Grove,  144;  Ottawa, 
151;  Leipsic,  158;  Belmore,  162;  Mil- 
ton,  172;  Weston,  176;  Tontogeny,  182; 
Perrysburg,  193  ; Toledo  (connects  with 
Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern  and 
Toledo,  Wabash  & Western  Railways), 
202. 

This  is  an  important  road  running 
through  a rich  and  beautiful  country. 
Most  of  the  stations  along  the  line  have 
already  been  described. 

From  Cincinnati  to  Dayton,  for  de- 
scription see  pages  30  and  31. 

Mumiltou  (25  miles).  (8ee  page 
31.) 

l>aytou  (60  miles).  {Bee  page  30.) 

Tippecauoe  (74  miles)  stands  on 
the  w'est  bank  of  the  Great  Afiami  River 
and  upon  the  Miami  <&  Erie  Canal.  It 
contains  several  churches  and  manufac- 
tories, and  is  growing  rapidly. 

Troy  (80  miles),  the  capital  of 
Miami  County,  is  a pretty,  well-built 
village,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Great 
Afiami  River  and  upon  the  Aliami  Canal, 
The  river,  which  at  this  point  is  a beau- 
tiful and  rapid  stream,  furnishes  a fine 
water-power  for  several  factories. 

Piqua.  (88  miles.)  {See  page  28.) 

Sidney  (100  miles).  {See  page  58.) 

Wapal£oueta  (119  miles),  the 
capital  of  Auglaize  county,  was  for  many 
years  the  seat  of  a mission  among  the 
Shawnee  Indians,  established  by  the  So- 
ciety of  Friends. 

jELima  (131  miles).  {See  page  24.) 

Toledlo  (202  miles).  {See  page  19.) 

The  other  stations  are  unimportant 
villages. 

nou  TE  II. 

CINCINNATI  TO  SANDUSKY. 

Via  Cincinnati^  Hamilton  c&  Dayton.,  and 

Cincinnati.,  Sandusky  Cleveland  Rail- 
ways. 

Stations. — Cincinnati — Dayton  (con- 
nects with  all  diverging  roads),  60  miles ; 
Osborn,  71 ; Springfield  (connects  with 
181 


Springfield.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Washington. 


Little  Miami  Railway  and  London 
Branch),  86 ; Fremont,  91 ; Urbana 
(connects  with  Columbus,  Chicago  & 
Indiana  Central  Railway),  99;  West  Lib- 
erty, 109 ; Bellefontaine  (connects  with 
Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati  & In- 
dianapohs  Railway),  117 ; Huntsville, 
124;  Yelverton,  132;  Kenton,  141 ; For- 
est (connects  with  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne 
& Chicago  Railway),  163 ; Carey  (Junc- 
tion of  Findlay  Branch),  166  ; Adrian, 
170 ; Tiffin,  181 ; Green  Springs,  193 ; 
Clyde  (connects  with  Lake  Shore  & 
Michigan  Southern  Railway),  198 ; Casta- 
lia,  209 ; Sandusky  (connects  with  San- 
dusky, Mansfield  & Newark  Railway), 
215. 

This  route  passes  through  a rich  and 
thickly-populated  region,  and  connects 
with  every  railway  crossing  the  State 
from  east  to  west,  and  consequently  all 
the  principal  stations  have  already  been 
described.  For  the  first  60  miles  the 
route  is  identical  with  Route  I.  of  Ohio. 

(85  miles).  {See  page 

30.) 

IJr'baiia  (99  miles).  (See  page  28.) 

West  lulheirty  (109  miles)  is  sit- 
uated on  Mad  liiver^  which  furnishes  a 
good  water-power  for  the  factories  and 
mills  at  this  point. 

lielletbi&taiiae  (117  miles).  (Sec 
page  58.) 

Keaton  (141  miles),  the  capital  of 
Hardin  County,  on  the  Scioto  River ^ is  a 
thriving  place. 

ff^orest  (153  miles)  is  a village  at 
the  crossing  of  the  Pittsburg^  Fort 
Wayne  cO  Chicago  Railway, 

Carey  (165  miles).  The  Findlay 
Branch  diverges  at  this  place. 

IFiacllay  (16  miles  from  Carey),  the 
capital  of  Hancock  County,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  left  bank  of  Blanchard's 
Fork.  It  does  a large  trade  with  the 
surrounding  country,  and  possesses  wells 
of  infiammable  gas  of  sufficient  quantity 
to  light  the  village.  It  is  connected  with 
Fremont  by  a railroad  which,  when  fin- 
ished, will  give  direct  communication 
with  Lima  and  Union. 

'Tiilln  (181  miles),  the  capital  of 
Seneca  County,  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Sandusky  River^  is  a compactly  and 
handsomely-built  town  of  some  impor- 
tance. 


Clyde  (198  miles)  is  a village  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Lake  Shore  <t  Michigan 
Southern  Railway. 

Csislalia  (209  miles),  a handsome 
village  on  Cold  Creek^  is  noted  for  the 
fine  springs  in  the  neighborhood,  one  of 
which,  the  source  of  the  creek,  has  the 
property  of  petrifaction. 

Sandusky  (216  miles),  the  capital 
of  Erie  County,  is  situated  on  the  bay  of 
the  same  name,  which  20  miles  long,  5 or 
6 wide,  and  has  an  average  depth  of  12 
feet.  The  city,  which  is  built  over  an 
inexhaustible  bed  of  limestone  admirably 
suited  for  building-purposes,  is  hand- 
some and  commands  a fine  view  of  the 
bay,  the  ground  rising  gradually  from 
the  shore.  Many  of  the  churches  and 
other  buildings  are  of  stone,  are  attrac- 
tive, and  even  elegant.  Sandusky  has  an 
extensive  commerce  and  many  manufac- 
tures. The  Lake  Erie  Division  of  the 
Baltimore  & Ohio  Railway^  Ibrmerly  the 
Sandusky^  Mansfield  do  Newark  RaiU 
way^  connects  here,  and  connections 
are  also  made  with  a branch  of  the  Lake 
Shore  & Michigan  Southern  Railway^  run- 
ning along  the  lake  from  Cleveland  to 
Toledo. 

BOUTE  III. 

CINCINNATI  TO  ZANESVILLE. 

Via  Cincinnati  & Muskingum  Valley  BaAI 
way. 

Stations. — Cincinnati — Morrow  (junc- 
tion of  Little  Miami  Railway),  36  miles  ; 
Clarksville,  46  ; Wilmington,  66  ; Wash- 
ington, 77  ; New  Holland,  87  ; Circleville, 
104  ; Amanda,  116  ; Lancaster  (connects 
with  Hocking  Yalley  Railway),  125; 
New  Lexington,  147 ; Zanesville  (con- 
nects with  Central  Ohio  Division  of  Bal- 
timore & Ohio  Railway),  168. 

This  road  as  far  as  Morrow  has  been 
described  in  Route  VI.  (See  page  41.) 
It  is  an  important  line,  passing  through  a 
rich  and  thickly-settled  farming  country. 

Wilming-ton  (66  miles),  the  cap- 
ital of  Clinton  County,  one  of  the  pricipal 
stations  on  the  road,  is  situated  on  Todd's 
Fork  of  the  Little  Miami  River.  It  stands 
on  gently-rolling  ground,  and  is  well 
built. 

IVasliing^toii  (77  miles),  the  cap- 


182 


CiRCLETiLLE.] 


OHIO. 


[Pittsburg. 


ital  of  Fayette  County,  is  situated  on 
Paint  Creek^  surrounded  by  a very  pro- 
ductive agricultural  region. 

Circle ville  (lOi  miles),  the  capital 
of  Pickaway  County,  is  a prosperous 
manufacturing  town  on  the  left  bank  of 
Scioto  River^  upon  the  site  of  an  old  for- 
tification of  a circular  form,  from  which 
it  derives  its  name.  The  Ohio  Canal 
crosses  the  river  at  this  place  by  a hand- 
some aqueduct. 

Amanda  (116  miles)  is  a pleasant 
village. 

Ciancaster  (125  miles),  the  cap- 
ital of  Fairfield  County,  is  a pretty  place, 
sitjuated  in  a charming  valley.  Near  the 
village  a pyramidal  sandstone  rock  200 
feet  in  height  rises  from  the  edge  of  a 
plain.  The  Hocking  Valley  Railway  con- 
nects here,  and  the  Hocking  Canal  affords 
communication  with  the  Ohio  Canal, 

New  ILiexiiigtoii  (147  miles),  for- 
merly called  Somerset^  the  capital  of 
Perry  County,  is  a thriving  village. 

^anesTille  (168  miles).  {See  page 
70.) 

JR  O UTE  1 V. 

CLEYELAKD  TO  PITTSBURG,  PA. 

Via  Cl&celemd  & Pittslmrg  Railway. 

Stations.  — Cleveland  — Newburg,  8 
miles  ; Macedonia,  20  ; Hudson  (connects 
with  Mount  Yemon  & Delaware  Rail- 
way), 26  ; Earlville,  82  ; Ravenna  (con- 
nects with  Atlantic  & Great  Western  Di- 
vision of  the  Erie  Railway),  38 ; Alliance 
(connects  with  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne 
& Chicago  Railway),  57 ; Bayard  (con- 
nects with  Tuscarawas  Branch),  69 ; 
Hanover,  75  ; Salineville,  87  ; Hammonds- 
ville,  95 ; Yellow  Creek  (junction  Main 
& River  Lines),  99 ; Wellsville,  102 ; 
Liverpool,  106 ; Rochester  (connects  with 
Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  & Chicago  Rail- 
way), 124 ; Pittsburg  (connects  with  rail- 
ways diverging),  150. 

This  road,  connecting  the  Ohio  River 
with  Lake  Erie,  does  a large  carrying- 
business. 

Cleveland,  [See  page  17.) 

Nevrl>arg  (8  miles),  a rapidly-grow- 
ing village,  is  the  seat  of  a large  State 
Insane  Asylum,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
beautiful  grove  on  the  banks  of  a snjall 
creek,  which,  in  the  centre  of  the  village. 


has  a fall  of  about  60  feet  over  a ledge 
of  rocks,  into  a narrow  ravine.  Newburg 
has  extensive  rolling-mills,  and  a good 
hotel.  It  connects  with  the  Alahoning 
Division  of  the  Erie  Railway, 

Hudson  (26  miles),  a pleasantly-sit- 
uated and  well-built  village,  the  seat  of 
the  Weston  Reserve  College,  founded  in 
1826,  conneets  with  the  Mount  Vernon 
dt  Delaware  Railway. 

Havenna  (38  miles).  {See  page  29.) 

Alliance  (57  miles).  {See  page  23.) 

Bayard  (69  miles)  is  at  the  junction 
of  the  Tuscarawas  Branch  for  New  Phil- 
adelphia. 

New  Bliiladelplila  (89  miles), 
terminus  of  the  Branch,  and  the  capital 
of  Tuscarawas  County,  stands  on  a plain 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tuscarawas  River, 
There  is  an  abundance  of  coal  and  iron- 
ore  in  the  neighborhood,  and  in  the  town 
are  several  founderies,  manufactories,  and 
machine-shops.  The  Ohio  Canal  passes 
near  this  place. 

Yellow  Creelc  (99  miles)  is  the 
point  where  the  River  Line  diverges  from 
the  Main  Line. 

^Vellsville  (102  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Lake  and  River  Tour,  No. 
II.  (/Seepage  165.)  The  road  here  runs 
along  the  north  bank  of  the  Ohio  River, 
of  which  the  traveller  obtains  a fine  view 
from  the  cars. 

BoclAestei*9  Ba.  (124  miles),  at 
the  mouth  of  Beaver  River,  is  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Cleveland  Pittsburg  and 
Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  do  Chicago  Rail- 
ways. 

jpittsl>urg‘,  S®a.  (150  miles),  is 
fully  described  in  Appletons’  Hand-book 
OF  American  Travel,  Northern  and 
Eastern  Tour.  Connections  are  here 
made  with  all  diverging  railways. 

ROUTE  F. 

CLEVELAND  TO  CINCINNATI. 

Via  Cleveland,  Cohimtms,  Cincin/nati,  &,  In- 
dia/napoUs  Railway, 

Stations. — Cleveland — Gallon  ( cross- 
ing of  Atlantic  & Great  Western  Division 
of  Erie  Railway),  79  miles  ; Cardington, 
97 ; Delaware  (junction  of  Springfield 
Branch),  114 ; Columbus  (connects  with 
railways  diverging),  138  ; Cincinnati,  258. 

183 


Cleveland.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Athens. 


The  above  list  of  stations  includes  only 
the  termini,  and  those  between  Columbus 
and  Galion.  All  the  rest  of  the  route  is 
described  in  another  part  of  the  book. 

From  Cleveland  to  Galion.  (^See  page 

68.) 

From  Columbus  to  Cincinnati.  {See 
page  40.) 

Cleveland.  {See  page  17.) 

Cralioii.  {See  page  30.) 

Cardiiig’ton  (97  miles)  is  a thriv- 
ing village  on  the  eastern  branch  of  the 
Olentangy  River, 

S>elaware  (114  miles),  the  capital 
of  Delaware  County,  is  built  upon  rolling 
ground  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Olen~ 
tangy  River ^ which  is  here  crossed  by  a 
bridge.  In  1845  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  Uni- 
versity  was  founded  in  this  place,  and 
subsequently  the  Ohio  Wesleyan  Female 
College,  There  is  in  Delaware  a mineral 
medicinal  spring  of  some  reputation. 
The  Springfield  Branch  diverges  here. 

Colaml>ws  (138  miles).  (/Seepage 
26.) 

Cincinnati  (258  miles).  (/Seepage 
31.) 

MOUTE  VI. 

SAN-DTTSKY  TO  NEWARK. 

Yia  Lake  Erie  Division  of  Baltimore  & Ohio 
Railway, 

Stations. — Sandusky — Front’s  ( con- 
nects with  Huron  Branch),  8 miles  ; Mon- 
roeville (connects  with  Lake  Shore  & 
Michigan  Southern  Railway),  15  ; Centre- 
ton,  27 ; Shelby  Junction  (connects  with 
Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati  & Indi- 
anapolis Railway),  42  ; Mansfield  (con- 
nects with  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne  & 
Chicago  Railway),  54  ; Belleville,  68  ; An- 
kenytown,  79  ; Mount  Vernon,  91 ; Louis- 
ville, 107 ; Newark  (connects  with  Cen- 
tral Ohio  Division,  and  with  Pittsburg, 
Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Railway),  116. 

This  road  was  formerly  known  as  the 
Sandusky^  Mansfield  <Sc  Newark  Railway^ 
but  now  forms  a part  of  the  Baltimore  Ac 
Ohio  Railway^  and  is  the  last  link  in  the 
unbroken  line  of  railway  from  Lake  Erie 
to  the  Chesapeake.  It  crosses  the  Ohio 
by  a splendid  bridge  at  Parkersburg. 

^sinduslcy.  (See  page  182.) 

IPr out’s  (8  miles).  A branch  to 
Huron  diverges  here. 

184 


Monroeville  (16  miles),  on  the 
Huron  River , is  a fiourishing  and  rapidly- 
growing  town  at  the  crossing  of  the  Lake 
Shore  Ac  Michigan  Southern  Railway. 

Sliell>y  Junction  (42  miles)  is 
the  crossing  of  the  Cleveland^  Columbus^ 
Cindnnaii  Ac  Indianapolis  Railway. 

Mansfield  (64  miles).  {See  page 
24.) 

Melleville  (68  miles)  is  a small 
village  on  a fork  of  the  Mohiccan  River, 

Mount  Vernon  (91  miles),  the 
capital  of  Knox  County,  is  situated  on 
ground  gently  rising  from  the  banks  of 
Vernon  River,  It  is  closely  built  up,  and 
is  a very  prosperous  little  place.  The 
surrounding  country  is  populous  and  well 
cultivated.  The  river  affords  good  water- 
power. 

Newarlc  (116  miles).  (/See  page  26.) 


EOUTE  VI. 

COLUMBUS  TO  ATHENS. 

• Via  Columbus  & Hocking  Valley  Railway. 

Stations. — Columbus — ^Winchester,  16 
miles  ; Lancaster  (connects  with  Cincin- 
nati & Muskingum  Valley  Railway),  32  ; 
Logan,  49 ; Hadenville,  66  ; Nelsonville, 
62;  Athens  (connects  with  Marietta  & 
Cincinnati  Railway),  76. 

This  railway  was  opened  in  August, 
1870,  and,  although  only  76  miles  in 
length,  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  most 
important  in  the  State,  it  passing  through 
the  rich  coal  and  iron  deposits  of  Hock- 
ing County. 

ColuiuI>us.  (See  page  26.) 

S^uueuster  (32  miles).  {See  page 
183.) 

KiOgfun  (49  miles),  the  capital  of 
Hocking  County,  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  Hocking  River ^ a mile  below  the 
Hocking  Falls.  The  Hocking  Canal  passes 
through  the  village,  which  it  is  thought 
will  now  grow  rapidly  with  the  impetus 
which  the  opening  of  the  railway  has 
given  it.  The  iron-mines  in  the  neighbor- 
hood are  of  great  value. 

I^clsoiavillo  (62  miles)  is  a grow- 
ing village  on  the  Hocking  River, 

AtlieiiS  (76  railes)"the  terminus  of 
the  road,  is  described  in  Route  XL  {Sec 
page  'a.) 


iNDIiiNA.] 


INDIANA. 


[Indiana. 


INDIANA. 


Indiana,  the  sixth  State  in  the  Union 
in  population,  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  Lake  Michigan,  and  the  State  of 
Michigan ; on  the  east  by  Ohio,  on  the 
south  by  the  Ohio  River,  and  on  the  west 
by  Illinois.  The  greatest  length  from 
north  to  south  is  278  miles,  and  its  width 
from  east  to  west  144  miles,  the  area  be- 
ing 33,809  square  miles.  There  are  no 
mountains  in  the  State,  though  in  some 
portions  of  the  southern  and  southwest- 
ern counties  it  is  rough  and  hilly.  A 
large  tract  of  country  in  the  southwest  is 
underlaid  by  a cavernous  limestone. 

The  first  settlements  were  made  by  the 
French  early  in  the  eighteenth  century, 
but  it  was  not  until  after  the  Revolution, 
when  the  American  element  became  in- 
fused into  the  community,  that  the  popu- 
lation increased  to  any  considerable  ex- 
tent. In  common  with  other  parts  of  the 
West,  Indiana  suffered  greatly  by  the 
Indians,  but  in  1811  the  savages  were 
utterly  crushed.  General  Harrison  routing 
them  at  the  battle  of  Tippecanoe,  fought 
near  the  present  city  of  Indianapolis.  In 
1800  Indiana  and  Illinois  were  organized 
as  a Territory,  and  in  1816  the  former 
separated  itself,  and  was  admitted  into 
the  Union.  As  in  Ohio,  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  waters  flowing  to  the 
north  and  those  flowing  southward  is 
much  nearer  to  the  northern  boundary 
than  to  the  Ohio  River,  and  the  important 
rivers  of  the  State,  with  but  one  excep- 
tion, empty  into  the  Ohio.  In  the  western 
portion  of  the  State  there  is  a vast  extent 
of  prairie,  but  the  eastern  and  northern 
sections  are  still  heavily  timbered,  except 
where  the  axe  of  the  settler  has  been  at 
work. 

Minerals. — The  bituminous  coal-fields 
are  very  rich,  extending,  as  far  as  is  now 
known,  through  22  counties,  and  em- 
bracing an  area  of  7,700  square  miles. 
This  coal  is  abundant  in  the  southwestern 
portion  of  the  State,  it  being  estimated 
that  the  average  quantity  is  50,000,000 
bushels  to  the  square  mile.  Other 
minerals,  such  as  iron  and  zinc,  are  found, 
and  gypsum,  marble,  and  good  building- 


stone,  both  sand  and  limestone,  are  also 
met  with. 

The  climate  is  similar  to  that  of  Ohio. 
In  the  river-bottoms  the  soil  is  a rich 
loam  of  great  fertility ; on  the  uplands  it 
is  not  so  good.  Large  tracts  of  land  re- 
main unimproved,  but  there  is  little  of  it 
which  will  not  well  repay  the  pains  of 
cultivation. 

Fruit  is  abundant  in  nearly  all  parts  of 
the  State,  and  the  culture  of  apples, 
peaches,  pears,  and  other  fruits,  forms 
an  important  branch  of  the  industry  of 
the  people. 

Indiana  is  divided  into  92  counties. 
The  population  by  the  late  census  was 
1,642,451.  Indianapolis,  the  capital  and 
principal  city  {see  page  43),  has  a popula- 
tion of  40,936.  The  three  cities  next  in 
population  are  Fort  Wayne,  17,156  ; New 
Albany,  16,205  ; and  Terre  Haute,  16,201. 
The  people  of  the  State  are  mostly 
farmers,  and  so,  while  Indiana  has  many 
small  villages,  it  has  but  few  cities.  The 
real  estate  and  personal  property  in  the 
State  are  given  by  the  census  of  1870  as 
$663,455,044,  against  $411,042,424  in 
1860. 

The  absence  of  mountain-ranges,  pic- 
turesque lakes,  and  fine  scenery,  renders 
the  country  in  many  respects  unattrac- 
tive to  the  tourist,  but  visits  to  the  coal 
and  iron  regions  are  not  without  interest. 
There  is  one  great  natural  curiosity  in 
Indiana,  however,  which  in  itself  would 
repay  one  the  trouble  of  travelling  many 
miles  to  see.  This  is  the  Wyandotte  Cave  in 
Crawford  County,  on  the  Blue  River,  five 
miles  from  Leavenworth.  It  is  reached 
by  steamer  on  the  Ohio  River.  {See  page 
170.)  The  scenery  of  Lost  River ^ near 
Salem,  and  the  Falls  of  Eel  River ^ near 
Spencer,  are  very  beautiful,  and  should  be 
visited.  ^ 

The  policy  of  this  State  in  reference  to 
canals  and  railways  has  been  liberal  and 
far-sighted,  the  result  being  that  453 
miles  of  canal  are  in  successful  operation, 
and  that,  besides  the  eight  grand  trunk 
lines  of  railway  which  cross  the  State, 
there  are  so  many  local  roads  that  scarce- 
185 


Onio  River.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations. 


ly  a village  in  the  State  is  not  either  on 
or  near  some  railroad.  The  work  of 
building  roads  continues  to  be  prosecuted 
with  so  much  activity  that  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  State  which  may  be  written 
for  one  year  will  be  very  incomplete  for 
the  next. 

The  educational  system  of  the  State  is 
excellent,  and  the  correctional,  reforma- 
tory, and  charitable  institutions,  are 
numerous  and  well-conducted. 

EIYEES. 

Indiana  is  well  watered  by  numerous 
small  streams,  which,  when  utilized,  will 
afford  great  water-power  for  manufactur- 
ing purposes,  but  as  yet  there  is  but  little 
done  in  this  respect,  in  proportion  to  the 
population.  The  rivers  of  the  State  are 
only  navigable  to  a limited  extent. 

'Flae  Oltio  Stiver,  forming  the 
southern  boundary  of  Indiana,  together 
with  every  place  upon  its  banks  of  any 
importance,  has  been  described  in  Lake 
AND  River  Tottr,  No.  II.  {See  page  164.) 

'jS?lae  'Wa'basli,  the  principal  river, 
rises  in  Huntington  County,  Ohio,  and 
crosses  Indiana  to  the  boundary-line  of 
Illinois,  where  it  turns  to  the  south,  and 
for  more  than  100  miles  forms  the  divid- 
ing line  between  the  two  States,  finally 
emptying  into  the  Ohio,  of  which  it  is  the 
largest  tributary  from  the  north.  Its 
total  length  is  500  miles.  In  time  of  high 
water  it  is  navigable  as  far  as  Covington, 
800  miles  from  its  mouth  ; in  low  stages 
of  water,  navigation  ceases  just  above  the 
mouth  of  White  River,  From  Huntington 
to  Terre  Haute,  180  miles,  the  Wabash 
& Erie  Canal  follows  the  river. 

"White  Kiver  is  formed  by  two 
branches,  the  East  and  the  West  Fork^ 
which,  after  the  union  in  Daviess  Countv, 
run  some  40  or  50  miles  in  a southwesterly 
direction,  and  empty  into  the  W abash. 
The  West  ForJe^  which  is  the  longer  of 
the  two,  is  navigable,  in  times  of  high 
water,  to  Martinsville,  200  miles  from  the 
Wabash.  It  rises  in  Randolph  County, 
near  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State. 
The  East  Fork^  about  250  miles  long, 
commonly  called  Blue  River,  until  passing 
Sugar  Creek,,  near  Edinborough,  rises 
in  Henry  County.  For  the  greater  part 
of  the  year  it  is  navigable  for  fiat-boats 
as  far  as  Rockford. 

186 


TTlic  I?laiimce  15ivci*  is  formed 
by  the  junction  of  the  St.  JosqEs  and  St. 
Mary's  Rivers^  at  Fort  Wayne,  and  emp- 
ties into  Lake  Erie  at  Toledo.  It  is  con- 
sidered a river  of  Ohio,  but  is  the  only 
one  of  any  size  which  runs  from  Indiana 
into  either  of  the  northern  lakes. 

nine  Kiver,  There  are  three 
streams  of  this  name  in  Indiana.  One 
has  just  been  mentioned  under  the  head- 
ing of  White  River  ; another  is  a tribu- 
tary of  Ed  River,,  and  the  third  empties 
into  the  Ohio  at  Leavenworth. 

T'lie  ''I'lppecasaoe  rises  in  Tippe- 
canoe Lake,,  in  Kosciusko  County,  and 
empties  into  the  Wabash,  near  Lafayette. 
It  is  200  miles  long,  is  very  crooked,  and 
for  over  100  miles  from  its  mouth  is  60 
feet  wide  and  3 feet  deep,  the  entire  year. 
The  2Iississinewa,,  Whitewater,,  Flat  Rock, 
and  Kankakee,  are  also  rivers  of  Indiana. 

MOUTB  I. 

CINCINNATI,  OHIO,  TO  CHICAGO, 
ILLINOIS. 

Via  Cincinnati,  Hamilton  & Dayton  and 

Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  <&  St.  Louis  Railways. 

Stations.  — Cincinnati,  Hamilton  <Sc 
Dayton  Railway. — Cincinnati — Cummins- 
ville,  5 miles  ; Marietta  & Cincinnati 
Junction  (connects  with  Marietta  & Cin- 
cinnati Railway),  Y ; Carthage,  10 ; Lock- 
land,  12  ; Glendale,  15  ; Jones,  19  ; Hamil- 
ton (connects  with  Cincinnati,  Richmond 
& Chicago  and  Cincinnati  & Indianapolis 
Junction  Railways),  25;  Collinsville,  36; 
Somerville,  39 ; Camden,  44  ; Eaton,  53 ; 
Florence,  60 ; Richmond  (connects  with 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Rail- 
way), 10. 

Stations. — Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  S St. 
Louis  Railway. — Richmond,  70  miles  from 
Cincinnati;  Washington,  79;  Hagerstown 
(connects  with  Indianapolis,  Cincinnati  & 
Lafayette  Railway),  86  ; Millville,  91 ; New 
Castle  (connects  with  Cincinnati  & In- 
dianapolis Junction  Railway),  97 ; Sulphur 
Springs,  104;  Middletown,  110;  Ander- 
son (connects  with  Cleveland,  Columbus, 
Cincinnati  & Indianapolis  Railway),  118  ; 
Frankton,  128;  Ellwood,  133;  AVindfall, 
142  ; Kokomo  (connects  with  Indiana- 
polis, Peru  & Chicago  Raihvay),  155  ; Lin- 
coln, 164;  Walbaum,  171;  Anoka,  173; 
Logansport  (connects  with  Peoria  Lino 


Camden.] 


INDIANA. 


[Hagerstown. 


and  with  Toledo,  Wabash,  and  Western 
Railway),  177 ; Royal  Centre,  189  ; Wi- 
namac,  203 ; La  Crosse  (connects  with 
Louisville,  New  Albany  & Chicago  Rail- 
way), 227 ; Hebron,  242  \ Crown  Point, 
252  ; Shererville,  259 ; Chicago  (connects 
with  all  railways  diverging),  294. 

Between  Cincinnati  and  Hamilton,  this 
road  has  been  described ; Hamilton,  the 
only  station  of  importance,  being  noticed 
on  page  31. 

Ca^mden,  O.  (44  miles),  is  a pleas- 
ant village,  surrounded  by  a fine  farming 
country. 

O.  (53  miles),  the  capital 
of  Preble  County,  is  a handsome  and  pros- 
perous village  on  Seven-Mile  Creek^  which 
furnishes  a good  water-power.  It  is  about 
one  mile  east  of  the  site  of  old  Port 
St.  Clair,  which  was  built  in  the  winter 
of  1791-92,  General  Harrison,  then  an 
ensign,  commanding  the  guard. 

Miclmioad,  5ad«  (70  miles).  {See 
page  42.) 

Hagerstown.  (86  miles),  a pros 
perous  town,  is  situated  on  a branch  of 
Whitewater  River ^ and  at  the  terminus  of 
the  Whitewater  Canal.  The  Indianapolis^ 
Cincinnati  cfi  Lafayette  Railway  connects 
here. 

Newcastle  (97  miles),  the  capital 
of  Henry  County,  is  situated  upon  Blue 
River,  which  furnishes  a fine  water-power. 
The  Cincinnati  ds  Indianapolis  Junctwn 
Railway  connects  here. 

Anderson  (118  miles)  connects 
with  the  Cleveland,  Columbus,  Cincinnati 
do  Indianapolis  Railway.  (;See  page  58.) 

Kokomo  (155  miles),  the  capital  of 
Howard  County,  situated  on  Wild-cat 
Creek,  is  the  seat  of  the  State  Normal 
School.  It  connects  with  the  Indianapolis, 
Peru  do  Chicago  Railway. 

1.40gansport  (177  miles).  {See 
page  28.) 

The  rest  of  this  route  is  identical  with 
Through  Route  IV.  {See  page  28.) 


no  ITT  E II. 

OmCINN^ATI,  OHIO,  TO  CHICAGO,  ILL. 
Via  Whitewater  Valley,  Branch  of  Indian- 
apolis, Cincinnati  & Lafayette  Railway, 
known  as  Cincinnati  & Chicago  Air  Line. 
Stations. — Cincinnati  — South  Side,  5 
miles  ; Delhi,  11 ; North  Bend,  15 ; Cleves 


16 ; Talley  Junction  (connects  with  the 
Main  Line),  18  ; Hunt’s  Grove,  20;  Har- 
rison, 25  ; Longnecker’s,  29  ; New  Tren- 
ton, 32  ; Ashby’s,  33  ; Cedar  Grove,  37  ; 
Cooley’s,  39 ; Brookville,  43 ; Yellow 
Bank,  47;  Metamora,  52;  Colter’s,  53; 
Laurel,  58 ; Alpine,  62 ; Nulltown,  64 ; 
Connersville  (connects  with  Port  Wayne, 
Muncie  & Cincinnati  Railway),  68 ; Bee- 
son’s, 74;  Milton,  79  ; Cambridge  City 
(connects  with  Indianapolis  Division  of 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Rail- 
way), 81 ; Hagerstown  (connects  with 
Cincinnati  & Chicago  Line  of  Pittsburg, 
Cincinnati  & St.  Louis  Railway),  88 ; 
Chicago,  296. 

Nortla.  IBend,  €>.  (15  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Lake  and  River  Tour 
No.  II.  {See  page  168.) 

Valley  Aiiiictioii,  ©.  (18  miles). 
The  Whitewater  Valley  Branch  diverges 
here  from  the  Main  Line. 

Hrookville,  Sad*  (43  miles),  a 
lively  business  town,  is  reached  after  a 
pleasant  ride  of  25  miles  up  the  White- 
water  Valley.  It  is  the  capital  of  Prank- 
lin  County,  and  is  situated  at  the  forks  of 
the  Whitewater  River  and  on  the  White^ 
water  Canal.  The  river  furnishes  -water- 
power for  several  mills  and  factories. 

Sjaurel  (58  miles),  a growing  village, 
is  situated  on  the  Whitewater  River  and 
Canal. 

Cornier sville  (68  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Payette  County,  is  a handsome  vil- 
lage, noted  for  its  public  buildings ; the 
court-house  being  one  of  the  most  elegant 
in  the  State.  It  stands  on  the  bank  of 
the  Whitewater  River.  The  Whitewater 
Canal  passes  through  the  village.  The 
Fort  Wayne,  Muncie  do  Cincinnati  Railway 
connects  here. 

Cambridge  City  (81  miles),  a 
village  on  the  Whitewater  River  and  Canal, 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Indianapolis  Di- 
vision of  the  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  do  St. 
Louis  Railway,  connects  with  a Branch 
of  the  Jeffersonville,  Madison  do  Indian- 
apolis Railway, 

Hagerstown  (88  miles)  is  an 
active  business  place  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Whitewaier  Canal.  The 
traveller  is  transferred  here  to  the  track 
of  the  Cincinnati  do  Chicago  Line  of  the 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati  do  St.  Louis  Railway 
(described  as  Route  I.  of  Ohio). 

187 


Liberty.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


n O UTE  III. 

CINCINNATI.  OHIO,  TO  INDIANAPOLIS, 
INDIANA. 

Via  Cincinnati  & Indianapolis  Junction 
BaUway, 

Stations. — Cincinnati — Hamilton  (con- 
nects with  Cincinnati,  Hamilton  & Dayton 
and  Cincinnati,  Richmond  k,  Chicago 
Railways),  25  miles ; Oxford,  39  ; College 
Corner,  45  ; Liberty,  52 ; Brownsville,  59  ; 
Connersville  (connects  with  Fort  Wayne, 
Muncie&  Cincinnati  Railway),  67 ; Vienna, 
76  ; Rushville,  85  ; Burlington,  92 ; Mor- 
ristown, 98 ; Fountaintown,  103  ; Pales- 
tine, 109 ; Indianapolis  (connects  with 
railways  diverging),  123. 

From  Cincinnati  to  Oxford,  see  page  31. 
5jil>erty,  laid.  (52  miles),  the 
capital  of  Union  County,  contains  the 
county  seminary. 

CoMiersville  (67  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Route  II.  {See  page  187.) 

MMsBiville  (85  miles),  the  capital 
of  Rush  County,  is  a thriving  place,  situ- 
ated on  Flat  Rock  Creek,  at  the  crossing 
of  the  Columbus,  Shelby  d:  Cambridge  City 
Branch  of  the  Jeffersonville,  Madison  db 
Indianapolis  Railway.  It  has  a handsome 
court-house  and  several  pretty  churches. 

IndLia^aiSEpoIis  (123  miles).  {Sec 
page  43.) 

B O UTE  I V. 

CINCINNATI,  OHIO,  TO  LAFAYETTE, 
INDIANA. 

Via  Indianapolis,  Cincinnati  & Lafayette 
Railway. 

Stations. — Cincinnati — Sedamsville,  3 
miles ; River  Side,  4 ; South  Side,  6 ; 
Anderson’s  Ferry,  7 ; Trautman’s,  8 ; 
Delhi,  11;  Devens,  14;  North  Bend,  15; 
Cleves,  16 ; Valley  Junction  (connects 
with  Whitewater  Division),  18  ; Eliza- 
bethtown, 20 ; Hardentown,  23  ; Lau- 
renceburg  (connects  with  Ohio  & Mis- 
sissippi Railway),  25  ; Newtown,  26  ; 
Guilford,  33 ; Ilansell’s,  34 ; Harman’s, 
40  ; Weisburg,  42  ; Sunman’s,  46  ; 
Spades,  48;  Morris,  51;  Batesville,  64; 
New  Point,  60 ; Smith’s  Crossing,  62 ; 
McCoy’s,  65 ; Greensburg,  69 ; Adams, 
76;  St.  Paul,  80;  Waldron,  81;  Pres- 
cott, 84 ; Shelbyvklle  (connects  with  Co- 
lumbus & Shelby  Division  of  Jefferson- 
188 


[Frankfort. 

ville,  Madison,  & Indianapolis  Railway), 
88 ; Fairland  (connects  with  Cincin- 
nati & Martinsville  Division),  96 ; Lon- 
don, 99  ; Brookfield,  100  ; Acton,  102  ; 
Gallaudet,  106 ; Indianapolis  (connects 
with  St.  Louis,  Vandalia,  Terre  Haute, 
and  Indianapolis  Railway),  116;  Au- 
gusta, 125;  Zionsville,  130;  Whites- 
town,  136;  Holmes’s,  139;  Lebanon, 
143;  Hazelrigg,  148;  Thomtown,  163 ; 
Colfax  (connects  with  stages  to  Frank- 
fort, etc.),  158 ; Clarke’s  Hill,  163 ; 
Stockwell,  167 ; Culver’s,  17 1 ; Louis- 
ville, New  Albany  & Chicago  Crossing 
(connects  with  Louisville,  New  Albany  & 
Chicago  and  Toledo,  Wabash  & Western 
Railways),  178  ; Lafayette,  179. 

As  far  as  Valley  Junction,  where  the 
Whitewater  Valley  Division  diverges, 
this  route  is  identical  with  Route  II.  of 
Indiana. 

ffjsiiireiice'bitrg‘9  (25 

miles),  has  been  described  in  Route  IX. 
{See  page  59.)  Leaving  this  place,  the 
road  diverges  from  the  Ohio  River,  which 
it  has  followed  so  far,  turning  toward  the 
northwest. 

Morris  (51  miles)  is  an  eating-sta- 
tion ; all  trains  stopping  15  minutes. 

^reemsiFwirg;  (69  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Decatur  County,  is  a beautiful  and 
well-built  village.  It  was  settled  in  1821, 
and  since  the  construction  of  the  rail- 
road has  grown  rapidly. 

Sliell>y  ville  (88  miles),  the  capital 
of  Shelby  County,  and  the  seat  of  a 
large  seminary,  is  upon  the  left  bank  of 
Blue  River,  It  connects  with  the  Co- 
lumbus <Ss  Shelby  Division  of  the  Jeffer- 
sonville, Madison  & Indianapolis  Railway. 

Fairland  (95  miles)  is  a small  vil- 
lage at  the  junction  of  the  Cincinnati  & 
MartinsviUe  Division. 

Indianapolis  (116  miles).  Con- 
nections are  made  here  with  all  diverging 
railways.  {See  page  43.) 

Ijel>anon  (143  miles)  is  the  capital 
of  Boone  County. 

TTliorntown  (153  miles)  is  a good- 
sized  and  pleasantly-located  village. 

Coliax  (168  miles)  is  a small  village, 
connecting  with  a line  of  stages  for 
Frankfort. 

Franlflbrt,  reached  by  stage,  is 
the  capital  of  Clinton  County.  It  is  on 
a branch  of  the  Wild-cat  River, 


Stations.] 


INDIANA. 


[Laporte. 


Hiaiayette  (179  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Route  XYI.  (See  page  84.) 

nOUTB  V. 

MADISON  TO  CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS. 

Via  Madison  Branch  of  Jeffersorwille,  Aladi- 
son  Indianapolis  Bail/way ; Main  Line 
of  the  same  / India/napoHs,  Peru  <&  Chica~ 
go  ; Chicago,  Cinciwrtati  &,  Louisville,  and 
Lake  Shore  <&  Michigan  Southern  Bail- 
ways. 

Stations. — Jeffersonville,  Madison  <Sb 
Indianapolis  Railway.  — Madison  — Du- 
pont, 14  miles  from  Madison ; North 
Vernon  (connects  with  Ohio  & Mississip- 
pi Railway),  24  ; Scipio,  31 ; Elizabeth- 
town, 38 ; Columbus  (connects  with 
Main  Line),  46  ; Taylorsville,  61 ; Edin- 
burg, 56;  Amity,  61 ; Franklin  (connects 
with  the  Cincinnati  & Martinsville 
Branch  of  Indianapolis,  Cincinnati  & 
Lafayette  Railway),  66  ; Greenwood,  75  ; 
Indianapolis  (connects  with  railways  di- 
verging), 86. 

Stations. — Indianapolis,  Peru  <£•  Chica- 
go Railway. — Indianapolis,  86  miles  from 
Madison  ; Castleton,  97  ; Noblesville, 
108;  Cicero,  114;  Tipton,  126;  Sharps- 
ville,  132  ; Kokomo  (connects  with  Pitts- 
burg, Cincinnati  & St.  Louis,  formerly 
Columbus,  Chicago  & Indiana  Central 
Railway),  140 ; Miami,  149 ; Bunker 
Hill  (connects  with  Pittsburg,  Cincinna- 
ti & »St.  Louis  Railway),  154  ; Peru  (con- 
nects with  Toledo,  Wabash  & Western, 
and  Chicago,  Cincinnati  & Louisville 
Railways),  161. 

Stations.  — Chicago,  Cincinnati  & 
Louisville  Railway. — Peru,  161  miles  from 
Madison.  Deeds,  171 ; Rochester,  184  ; 
Plymouth  (connects  with  Pittsburg,  Fort 
Wayne  & Chicago  Railway),  204  ; Wal- 
kerton,  218;  Laporte  (connects  with 
Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern  Rail- 
way), 234. 

Stations. — Lake  Shore  do  Michigan 
Southern  Railway. — Laporte,  234  miles 
from  Madison  ; Chesterton,  236  ; Engle- 
wood, 287 ; Chicago,  296. 

has  been  described  in 
Lake  and  River  Tour  No.  II.  (Sec  page 
169.) 

Nortli  VcriaoBi  (24  miles)  con- 
nects with  the  Ohio  do  Mississippi  Rail- 
way. 


(45  miles),  the  capital 
of  Bartholomew  County,  is  a thriving 
place,  situated  on  the  Past  Fork  of  White 
River.  The  road  connects  at  this  place 
with  the  Main  Line,  and  with  the  Colum- 
bus, Shelby  & Rushville  Branch. 

(56  miles)  is  a prosper- 
ous village,  built  upon  the  bank  of  Blue 
River,  which  gives  it  a good  water-pow- 
er. 

IPranlcliii  (66  miles),  the  capital 
of  Johnson  County,  on  Young'' s Creek,  is 
the  principal  town  between  Madison  and 
Indianapolis.  In  this  place  are  Franklin 
College  (Baptist),  a large  county  semina- 
ry, and  several  churches.  The  Cincinnati 
do  Martinsville  Division  of  the  Indianapo- 
lis, Cincinnati  do  Lafayette  Railway  con- 
nects here. 

Indianapolis  (86  miles)  connects 
with  all  diverging  railways.  (See  page 
43.) 

At  Indianapolis  we  take  the  Indian- 
apolis, Peru  do  Chicago  Railway. 

Noblesville  (108  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Hamilton  County,  stands  upon  a 
broad  plain,  highly  cultivated.  The  busi- 
ness and  population  of  the  town  have  in- 
creased rapidly  since  the  opening  of  the 
railroad.  There  are  several  hotels  in 
this  place. 

r^ipton  (126  miles),  situated  on  a 
high  prairie,  the  capital  of  Tipton  Coun- 
ty, is  a thriving  place,  rapidly  increasing 
in  population  and  importance. 

Kolcomo  (140  miles)  has  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  I.  of  Indiana.  (See  page 
187.) 

KMMkei*  Mill  (164  miles)  is  a 
small  village  at  the  crossing  of  the  Pitts- 
burg, Cincinnati  do  St.  Louis  Railway. 

Mem  (161  miles)  has  been  described 
in  Route  XY.  (See  page  83.) 

The  next  link  in  this  chain  of  roads  is 
the  Chicago,  Cincinnati  do  Louisville  Rail- 
way. 

ISocIiesteB*  (184  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Fulton  County,  is  situated  on  Mill 
Creek. 

MlymoiitbL  (204  miles).  (See  page 
25.) 

iiaporte  (234  miles)  connects 
with  Lake  Shore  do  Michigan  Southern 
Railway.  (For  the  remainder  of  this 
route,  see  page  22.) 


189 


Stations.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mitchell. 


H O UTE  VI. 

LOUISVILLE,  KEN-TUCKY,  TO  CHICAGO, 
ILLINOIS. 

Via  JeffersowcilU,  Madison  Indianapolis  ; 

Indianapolis,  Pern  <&>  Chicago;  Chicago, 

Cincinnati  6b  Louisville,  and  Lcike  Shore  6b 

Alichigan  Southern  Railways. 

Stations. — Jeffersonville^  Madison  <fr  Lu 
dianapolis  Railway. — Louisville,  JefFer- 
eonville  (connects  with  river  steamers) ; 
Sellersburg,  9 miles;  Memphis,  15;  Vi- 
enna, 26 ; Marshfield,  31 ; Crothersville, 
S7 ; Farmington,  46  ; Seymour  (connects 
with  Ohio  & Mississippi  Railway),  49 ; 
Jonesville,  56;  Waynesville,  60;  Wales- 
boro,  62 ; Columbus  (Junction  of  Madison 
Branch  and  Shelby,  Rushville  & Cam- 
bridge City  Branch),  67 ; Taylorsville,  73  ; 
Edinburg,  77  ; Amity,  83  ; Franklin,  88  ; 
Greenwood,  97 ; Indianapolis  (connects 
with  diverging  railways),  108. 

Stations. — Indianapolis^  Peru  <b  Chica- 
go Railway. — Indianapolis,  108  miles  from 
Louisville;  Castleton,  119;  Noblesville, 
130 ; Cicero,  136;  Tipton,  147;  Sharpsville, 
154  ; Kokomo  (connects  with  Columbus, 
Chicago  k Indiana  Central  Railway),  162  ; 
Miami,  171 ; Bunker  Hill  (connects  with 
Columbus,  Chicago  k Indiana  Central 
Railway),  176 ; Peru  (connects  with 
Toledo,  Wabash  k Western  and  Chicago, 
Cincinnati  k Louisville  Railways),  183. 

Stations.  — Chicago^  Cincinnati  & 
Louisville  Railway. — Peru,  183  miles  from 
Louisville ; Deeds,  193  ; Rochester,  206  ; 
Plymouth  (connects  with  Pittsburg,  Fort 
Wayne  k Chicago  Railway),  226 ; Walk- 
erton,  240 ; Laporte  (connects  with  Lake 
Shore  k Michigan  Southern  Railway), 
256. 

Stations.  — Lake  Shore  & Michigan 
Southern  Railway. — Laporte,  256  miles 
from  Louisville ; Chesterton,  258 ; En- 
glewood, 309  ; Chicago,  315. 

the  largest  city  in 
Kentucky,  and  the  second  in  size  on  the 
Ohio  River,  is  described  in  Appletons’ 
Hand-Book  of  American  Travel— South- 
ern Tour. 

JeiFersoiiville,  laidl.,  has  been 
described  in  Lake  and  River  Tour  No. 
II.  {See  page  169.) 

Seyinoiir  (49  miles)  is  the  crossing 
of  the  Ohio  & Mississippi  Railway. 

Columl>its  (67  miles),  junction  of 
190 


the  Madison  Division^  and  of  the  Shelby^ 
Rushville  & Cambridge  City  Branch.  This 
town  and  the  remainder  of  the  route  have 
been  described  as  Route  Y.  of  Indiana. 

MOUTE  VII. 

LOUISVILLE,  KENTUCKY,  TO  CHICAGO, 
ILLINOIS. 

Via  Louisville,  N&w  Albany  6b  Chicago  and 
Michiga/n  Central  Railways. 

Stations.  — Louisville  (connects  with 
railways  diverging) ; New  Albany  (con- 
nects with  river  steamers) ; Providence, 
18  miles;  Salem,  35;  Mitchell  (connects 
with  Ohio  k Mississippi  Railway),  61 ; 
Bedford,  71 ; Bloomington,  96 ; Gosport 
(connects  with  Indianapolis  k Vincennes 
Railway),  113 ; Greencastle  (connects 
with  Terre  Haute  k Indianapolis  Rail- 
way), 139;  Bainbridge,  148;  Crawfords- 
ville  (connects  with  Indianapolis,  Bloom- 
ington k Western  Railway),  170;  Junc- 
tion, 196 ; Lafayette  (connects  with  To- 
ledo, Wabash  k Western,  and  Indianap- 
olis, Cincinnati  k Lafayette  Railways), 
197 ; Brookston,  211 ; Reynolds  (con- 
nects with  Western  Division  Columbus, 
Chicago  k Indiana  Central  Railway),  221  ; 
Francesville,  237 ; La  Crosse  (connects 
with  Chicago  Division  Columbus,  Chicago 
k Indiana  Central  Railway),  260;  Wana- 
tah  (connects  with  Pittsburg,  Fort  Wayne 
k Chicago  Railway),  267  ; La  Croix  (con- 
nects with  Lake  Shore  k Michigan  South- 
ern Railway),  279 ; Michigan  City  (con- 
nects with  Michigan  Central  Railway), 
288 ; Chicago,  344. 

Sjouisvilie,  Ky.,  the  largest  city 
in  the  State,  is  described  in  Appletons’ 
Hand-Book  of  American  Travel — South- 
ern Tour. 

New  All>a;My,  Isicl.,  has  been 
described  in  Lake  and  River  Tour,  No. 
II.  {See  page  170.) 

(35  miles),  the  capital  of 
Washington  County,  stands  on  rolling 
ground  near  the  source  of  Blue  River. 
Lost  River^  which  rises  in  this  county,  is 
an  interesting  stream.  At  one  point  it 
sinks  into  the  earth  and  runs  in  a subter- 
ranean channel  for  11  miles,  and  then 
rises  to  the  surface  and  unites  with  Lick 
Creek,  2,  tributary  of  White  River. 

Mitclicll  (61  miles)  is  a village  at 


Bedford.] 


INDIANA. 


[COYINGTON. 


the  crossing  of  the  Ohio  & Mississippi 
Hallway. 

JUJeclford.  ('Zl  miles),  the  capital  of 
Lawrence  County,  on  tke  Hast  Fork  of 
White  River ^ is  well  built,  pleasantly  sit- 
uated, and  has  a good  local  trade. 

ISioositing’toiB.  (96  miles),  the  cap- 
ital of  Monroe  County,  and  the  seat  of  the 
State  University^  was  settled  in  1819.  It 
stands  on  the  dividing  ridge  between  the 
East  and  West  Forks  of  White  River. 

Cro sport  (113  miles),  on  the  M^est 
Fork  of  White  River ^ the  principal  com- 
mercial town  of  Owen  County,  connects 
with  the  Indianapolis  dc  Vincennes  Rail- 
way. 

foreencastle  (139  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Koute  YII.  {See  page  44.) 

Crawffbrdlsville  (170  miles),  the 
capital  of  Montgomery  County,  beautifully 
situated  on  Sugar  Creek^  is  in  the  midst 
of  a fine  and  well-wooded  farming  coun- 
try, in  which  coal  is  abundant.  Its  edu- 
cational advantages  are  unusually  good, 
it  having  excellent  public  schools,  and  be- 
ing the  seat  of  Wabash  College.,  founded 
in  1835.  Manufacturing  is  carried  on  to 
some  extent  at  this  point.  Sugar  Creek 
affording  good  water-power. 

ILafayette  (197  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Route  XVI.  {See  page  84.) 

Reynolds  (221  miles)  is  a village 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Western  Division 
of  the  Columbus^  Chicago  db  Indiana  Cen- 
tral Railway. 

Crosse  (260  miles)  is  a village 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Chicago  Division 
of  the  Columbus,  Chicago  ds  Indiana  Cen- 
tral Railway. 

Wanatali  (267  miles)  is  a small 
village  at  the  crossing  of  the  Pittsburg, 
Fort  W ayne  db  Chicago  Railway. 

lL<a  Croix  (279  miles)  is  the  cross- 
ing of  the  Lake  Shore  db  Michigan  South- 
ern Railway. 

MicSaigfan  City  (288  miles). 
From  this  point  the  road  follows  the  line 
of  the  Michigan  Central  Railway.  {See 
page  6.) 

ROUTE  nil. 

INDIANAPOLIS  TO  YINGENNE3. 

Via  IndiemapoVis  & Vincennes  Railway. 

Stations.  — Indianapolis : Moresville, 
16  miles;  Martinsville  (connects  with 


Cincinnati  & Martinsville  Division  of  the 
Indianapolis,  Cincinnati  & Louisville  Rail- 
way), 30 ; Gosport  (connects  with  Louis- 
ville, New  Albany  & Chicago  Railway), 
44;  Spencer,  53;  Worthington,  71; 
Marco,  86  ; Edwardsport,  96 ; Vincennes 
(connects  with  Ohio  & Mississippi  and 
Evansville  & Crawfordsville  Railways), 
116. 

This  line  is  a short  but  important  one. 
For  almost  its  entire  length  the  road  fol- 
lows the  valley  of  the  West  Fork  of  White 
River. 

£ndia.ii.iLpolii!».  {See  page  43.) 

Martinsville  (30  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Morgan  County,  is  an  important 
place,  being,  in  times  of  high  water,  at 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  West  Foi'k 
of  White  River.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a rich  farming  country,  for  which  it  is 
the  shipping-port  and  market,  and  is  the 
western  terminus  of  the  Cincinnati  db 
Martinsville  Branch  of  the  Indianapolis, 
Cincinnati  db  Lafayette  Railway. 

Gosport  (44  miles)  has  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  VII.  of  Indiana.  {See 
page  191.) 

Spencer  (53  miles),  the  capital  of 
Owen  County,  situated  on  the  West  Fork 
of  White  River,  is  the  shipping-port  of  a 
large  section  of  country.  The  Falls  of 
Eel  River  in  this  country  are  very  beau- 
tiful. 

Vincennes  (116  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Route  IX.  {See  page  60.) 


M O UTE  IX. 

INDIANAPOLIS  TO  DANVILLE,  ILL. 

Via  Indnamapolis,  Bloomington  <Sb  Western 
Railway. 

Stations.  — Indianopolis  : Pittsboro’, 
18  miles  ; Jamestown,  28  ; Crawfordsville 
(connects  with  Louisville,  New  Albany  & 
Chicago  Railway),  44 ; Hillsboro’,  59 ; 
Covington,  72  ; Danville  (connects  with 
Toledo,  Vf abash  & Western  Railway), 
85. 

This  short  road  is  of  great  importance 
as  forming  a link  in  the  shortest  line  be- 
tween Indianapolis  and  Omaha. 

Crawfbrdsvilie  (44  miles)  has 
been  described  in  Route  VII.  of  Indiana. 
{See  page  191.) 

Coving^ton  (72  miles),  the  capital 
191 


Stations.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Illinois. 


of  Fountain  County,  is  an  important  vil- 
lage on  the  east  bank  of  the  Wabash 
River  and  upon  the  Wabash  & Erie  Canal, 
In  the  vicinity  are  large  fields  of  coal  and 
iron-ore,  and  great  quantities  of  grain 
are  shipped  here  both  by  rail  and  canal. 
The  river  is  crossed  at  this  point  by  a 
handsome  bridge. 

111.  (85  miles),  has 
been  described  in  Route  XVI.  {See  page 
84.) 

This  Route  will  be  continued  westward 
as  Route  XII.  of  Illinois. 

nOUTE  X. 

EVANSVILLE  TO  TERRE  HAUTE  AND 
ROCKVILLE. 

Via  Mansville  tfb  Crawfordsville  Railway. 

Stations.  — Evansville  (connects  by 
ferry  with  Evansville,  Henderson  & Nash- 
ville Railway,  and  with  river  steamers) : 


Ingles,  10  miles ; Princeton,  27 ; Decker’s, 
40;  Vincennes  (Junction  of  Ohio  & Mis- 
sissippi Railway),  51 ; Emison’s,  61 ; 
Carlisle,  73  ; Shelbum,  90  ; Hartford,  98  ; 
Terre  Haute  (connects  with  Terre  Haute 
& Indianapolis  and  Indianapolis  k St. 
Louis  Railways),  109;  Rosedale,  122; 
Rockville,  132. 

dira^nsville  has  been  described  in 
Lake  and  River  Tour,  No.  II. 

l^riiacetoML  (27  miles),  the  capital 
of  Gibson  County,  is  well  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a productive  country. 

Tinceiines  (51  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Route  IX.  {See  page  60.) 

Terre  Haute  (109  miles)  has 
been  described  in  Route  VII.  {Sec  page 
45.) 

Hoelcville  (132  miles)  is  the  cap- 
ital of  Parke  County,  and  the  present 
terminus  of  the  road.  The  country  about 
the  town  is  cut  up  into  productive  farms. 
Coal  is  abundant  in  the  neighborhood. 


ILLINOIS. 


Illinois,  the  fourth  State  of  the  Union 
in  population,  and  the  first  in  the  pro- 
duction of  breadstuffs,  extends  north- 
ward 380  miles,  and  westward  (at  the 
extremest  point)  200  miles.  It  is  bound- 
ed by  Wisconsin  on  the  north.  Lake 
Michigan  and  Indiana  on  the  east,  Ken- 
tucky on  the  south  (the  Ohio  between), 
and  Missouri  and  Iowa  on  the  west,  the 
Mississippi  River  intervening.  The  gen- 
eral surface  of  the  country  here,  as  in 
Indiana  and  Ohio,  is  that  of  elevated 
table-lands,  inclining  southward,  though 
it  is  more  level  than  the  neighboring 
States.  In  the  lower  portions  there  are  a 
small  stretch  of  hilly  land,  and  some 
broken  tracts  in  the  northwest ; and  upon 
the  Illinois  River  there  are  lofty  bluffs, 
and  yet  higher  and  bolder  points  on  the 
Mississippi. 

The  great  landscape  feature  of  Illinois 
is  its  prairies,  which  are  seen  in  almost 
every  part  of  the  State.  The  want  of 
variety,  which  is  ordinarily  essential  to 
landscape  attraction,  is  more  than  made 
up  in  the  prairie  scenery.  As  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  the  great  unvarying  plain 
192 


rolls  on ; its  sublime  grandeur  softened 
but  not  weakened  by  the  occasional 
groups  of  trees  in  its  midst,  or  by  the 
forests  on  its  verge,  or  by  the  countless 
flowers  everywhere  upon  its  surface. 
The  prairies  abound  in  game.  The  prai- 
rie-duck,  sometimes  but  improperly  called 
grouse,  are  abundant  in  September  and 
October. 

Perhaps  the  most  striking  picture  of 
the  prairie  country  is  to  be  found  on 
Grand  Prairie.  Its  gently-undulating 
plains,  profusely  decked  with  flowers  of 
every  hue,  and  skirted  on  all  sides  by 
woodland  copse,  roll  on  through  many 
long  miles  from  Jackson  County,  north- 
east to  Iroquois  County,  with  a width 
varying  from  one  to  a dozen  or  more 
miles.  The  uniform  level  of  the  prairie 
region  is  supposed  to  result  from  the  de- 
posit of  waters  by  which  the  land  was 
ages  ago  covered.  The  soil  is  entirely 
free  from  stones,  and  is  extremely  fertile. 
The  most  notable  characteristic  of  the 
prairies,  their  destitution  of  vegetation, 
excepting  in  the  multitude  of  rank 
grasses  and  flowers,  will  gradually  dis- 


Illinois.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Illinois  Riter. 


appear,  since  nothing  hinders  the  growth 
of  the  trees  but  the  continual  fires  which 
sweep  over  the  plains.  These  prevented, 
a fine  growth  of  timber  soon  springs  up  ; 
and  as  the  woodlands  are  thus  assisted 
in  encroaching  upon  and  occupying  the 
plains,  settlements  and  habitations  will 
follow,  until  the  prairie  tracts  are  over- 
run with  cities  and  towns.  Of  the  thirty- 
five  and  a half  millions  of  acres  embraced 
within  the  State,  but  thirteen  millions,  or 
little  more  than  one-third,  were  improved 
in  1860.  The  census  of  1870  exhibits 
a great  increase. . Despite  the  wonderful 
progress  in  population  and  production, 
however,  Illinois  is  yet  only  in  her  in- 
fancy. Excepting  the  specialty  of  the 
prairie,  the  most  interesting  landscape 
scenery  of  this  State  is  that  of  the  bold, 
ac^livitous  river-shores  of  the  Mississippi, 
the  Ohio,  and  the  Illinois  Rivers. 

The 'population  of  Illinois,  in  I860,  was 
1,711,951;  in  1870  it  was  2,539,638, 
which  exceeds  that  of  the  States  of  Dela- 
ware, Florida,  California,  Connecticut, 
Nebraska,  Nevada,  New  Hampshire,  Ore- 
gon, Rhode  Island,  and  Vermont,  com- 
bined. The  total  valuation  of  real  estate 
and  personal  property  in  Illinois  is  given 
by  the  census  of  1870  as  $764,787,000, 
against  $389,207,372  in  1860. 

The  agricultural  capabilities  of  Illinois 
are  unsurpassed  by  those  of  any  State  in 
the  Union.  The  soil  on  the  river-bottoms 
is  often  25  or  30  feet  deep,  and  the  upper 
prairie  districts  are  hardly  less  produc- 
tive. The  richest  tracts  are  the  Great 
American  Bottom,  lying  along  the  Missis- 
sippi, between  the  mouths  of  the  Missouri 
and  the  Kaskaskia  Rivers,  a stretch  of 
80  miles,  the  country  on  the  Rock  River 
and  its  branches,  and  that  around  the 
Sangamon  and  other  waters.  Thirty  to 
40  bushels  of  wheat,  or  80  to  100  bushels 
of  Indian  corn  to  the  acre,  is  by  no  means 
an  uncommon  product  here.  In  the 
growth  of  Indian  corn,  Illinois  ranks  as 
the  first  State  in  the  Union.  In  respect 
to  other  agricultural  staples  and  products, 
what  we  have  said  of  the  adjoining  States 
of  Ohio  and  Indiana  may  be  applied  to 
Illinois ; so  of  the  forest-trees  of  the  coun- 
try. 

In  mineral  resources  the  State  is  well 
provided.  It  shares,  with  the  adjoining 
States  of  Iowa  and  Wisconsin,  extensive 
9 


supplies  of  lead.  The  trade  in  this 
mineral  is  the  chief  support  of  the  pros- 
perous town  of  Galena,  in  the  northwest 
part  of  Illinois.  According  to  Taylor,  the 
coal-fields  of  the  State  occupy  an  area  of 
44,000  square  miles.  Bituminous  coal 
exists  everywhere,  and  may  be  obtained 
in  many  places  without  excavation.  The 
bluffs,  near  the  Great  American  Bottom, 
contain  immense  beds  of  this  valuable 
product.  Mines  are  worked  near  Peoria, 
along  the  line  of  the  Illinois  Central  Rail- 
way^ and  at  many  other  points.  In  the 
southern  part  of  the  State  iron  is  abun- 
dant ; and  in  the  north,  copper,  zinc,  lime, 
fine  marbles,  freestone,  gypsum,  and 
quartz-crystals.  Silver,  too,  is  found  in 
St.  Clair  County.  At  Peoria,  in  the 
immediate  neighborhood  of  the  city,  is  a 
valuable  spring,  strongly  impregnated 
with  sulphur. 

Medicinal  springs,  sulphur  and  chalyb- 
eate, are  found  in  various  parts  of  the 
State.  In  Jefferson  County  there  is  a 
spring  much  frequented,  and  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  State  are  some 
waters  strongly  impregnated  with  Epsom 
salts. 

RIYERS  AKD  LAKES. 

TTlte  forms  the  en- 

tire western  boundary  of  the  State,  and 
many  of  the  most  remarkable  pictures, 
for  which  its  upper  waters  are  famous, 
occur  in  this  region — the  tall,  fantastically 
shaped  bluffs  rising  at  different  points  to 
the  height  of  from  100  to  500  feet.  The 
Fountain  Bluff  of  the  Mississippi  is  in 
Jackson  County;  it  is  oval-shaped,  is  six 
miles  in  circuit,  and  300  feet  in  height. 
The  summit  is  full  of  sink-holes.  \See 
Lake  and  River  Tour,  No.  I.) 

Xlae  Silinois,  the  largest  river  of 
the  State,  flows  through  its  centre  south- 
westerly into  the  Mississippi,  20  miles 
above  Alton.  Exclusive  of  its  branches, 
the  Des  Plaines  and  the  Kankakee,  its 
length  is  about  320  miles.  Its  navigable 
waters  extend  at  some  seasons  206  miles 
to  Ottawa,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fox  River. 
Peoria  is  upon  its  banks,  200  miles  from 
its  mouth. 

The  picturesque  heights  of  the  Illinois, 
called  the  Starved  Rock,  and  the  Lover’s 
Leap,  are  frequently  visited  by  tourists 
in  search  of  the  curious.  Starved  Rock^ 
193 


Ouio  Kiver.] 

eight  miles  below  Ottawa,  is  a grand  per- 
pendicular limestone  clilf,  150  feet  in 
height.  Lover's  Leap  is  a precipitous 
ledge,  just  above  Starved  Ilock,  and 
directly  across  the  river  is  Buffalo  Rock^ 
a height  of  100  feet.  Peoria  Lake  is  an 
expansion  of  the  Illinois,  near  the  middle 
of  the  State.  Above  Vermilion  River 
there  are  some  rapids,  which  boats  pass 
only  in  periods  of  high  water. 

T'lie  Oliio  bounds  the  State  on  its 
southern  extremity.  It  is  in  this  part  of 
Illinois  (Hardin  County)  that  the  famous 
Cave  in  the  Pock  of  the  Ohio  shore  oc- 
curs. (/See  Lake  and  River  Tour,  No. 
II.) 

Tlae  on  the  eastern 

boundary,  divides  Illinois  in  the  lower 
portion  from  Indiana.  {8ee  Indiana.) 

mock  miver  has  its  source  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Lake  Winnebago,  in 
Wisconsin,  and  flows  a distance  of  330 
miles  to  the  Mississippi,  a little  below  the 
town  of  Rock  Island.  It  enters  Illinois 
near  Beloit,  and  afterward  passes  Rock- 
ford and  Dixon.  Its  course  is  through  a 
rich  valley  or  plain,  remarkable  for  its 
pictorial  interest.  The  navigation  of  its 
waters  is  much  obstructed  by  rapids  ; for 
it  is,  unlike  the  sluggish  Illinois,  a bold, 
swift  stream.  Small  steamboats  ascend 
sometimes,  however,  225  miles,  to  Jeffer- 
son, in  Wisconsin. 

T^iie  ]PIaiiaes  flows  150 

miles  from  the  southeast  corner  of  Wis- 
consin to  Dresden,  where  it  unites  with 
the  Kankakee,  and  forms  the  Illinois. 

'5'Ii.e  comes  from  the 

northern  part  of  Indiana,  100  miles  to 
Dresden.  Its  course  is  sluggish,  and 
through  a region  chiefly  occupied  by 
prairies  and  marshes.  The  stream 
abounds  in  game,  and  during  the  duck- 
shooting season  is  much  frequented  by 
sportsmen  from  Chicago  and  the  neigh- 
borhood. 

enters  the  Illi- 
nois, about  10  miles  above  Beardstown, 
after  a course  of  nearly  200  miles.  Small 
steamers  ascend  it  at  high  water. 

'Tiie  ®^ox  mivea-  rises  in  Wauke- 
sha County,  Wisconsin,  and,  after  passing 
the  towns  of  Elgin,  St,  Charles,  Geneva, 
Batavia,  and  Aurora,  falls  into  the  Illinois 
at  Ottawa. 

The  Vermilion^  the  Einharras^  and  the 
194 


[Stations. 

Little  Wahash^  are  tributaries  of  the 
Wabash  from  Illinois. 

ILake  Mickig'an  forms  60  miles 
of  the  northern  boundai7  of  the  State. 
(See  chapter  on  Michigan.)  Excepting 
the  expansion  of  the  Illinois  River,  called 
Lake  Peoria,  and  the  waters  of  Pish  taka, 
in  the  northeast,  there  are  no  lakes  of 
importance. 

Railways  intersect  Blinois  in  every 
direction.  They  are  all  described  in  the 
preceding  pages  of  the  volume,  and  in 
this  chapter.  In  1850  there  were  less 
than  50  miles  of  railroad  in  the  entire 
State;  in  1871,  there  were  4,823  miles 

MOUTE  1. 

CHICAGO  TO  CAIRO, 

Yia  Chicago  Branch  Illinois  Central  Rail- 
way. 

Stations. — Chicago:  Calumet  (con- 
nects with  Michigan  Central  Railway),  14 
miles  ; Homewood,  24 ; Matteson  (cross- 
ing of  the  Joliet  Branch),  28  ; Monee, 
34 ; Peotone,  40 ; Manteno,  47 ; Kanka- 
kee, 56 ; Chebanse,  64  ; Clifton,  69  ; Ash- 
kum,  73 ; Danforth,  77 ; Gilman  (connects 
with  Toledo,  Peoria  & Warsaw  Rail- 
way), 81 ; Onarga,  85 ; Bulkley,  93 ; 
Loda,  99;  Paxton,  103;  Rantoul,  114; 
Thomasboro’,  119;  Champaign  (connects 
with  Indianapolis,  Bloomington  & West- 
ern Railway),  128  ; Tolono  (connects  with 
Toledo,  Wabash  & Western  Railway), 
137;  Tuscola,  150;  Okaw,  158;  Milton, 
164 ; Mattoon  (connects  with  Indianapolis 
& St.  Louis  Railway),  173;  Neoga,  185  ; 
Sigel,  191  ; Effingham  (connects  with  St. 
Louis,  Vandalia,  Terre  Haute  & India- 
napolis Railway),  199 ; Watson,  206  ; 
Mason,  212;  Edgewood  (connects  with 
Springfield  & Illinois  Southeastern  Rail- 
way), 215 ; Farina,  223 ; Kinmunday, 
229  ; Odin  (connects  with  Ohio  k Missis- 
sippi Railway),  244 ; Centralia  (junction 
with  main  line),  253;  Richview,  263; 
Ashley  (connects  with  St.  Louis  k South- 
eastern Railway),  266  ; Tamaroa,  280  ; 
Du  Quoin  (connects  with  Belleville  k 
Southern  Illinois  Division  of  St.  Louis, 
Alton  k Terre  Haute  Railway),  289 ; De 
Soto,  302 ; Carbondale  (connects  with 
Branch  to  Grand  Tower),  308 ; Makanda, 
317;  Cobden,  323;  Jonesboro’,  329; 
Dongola,  339  ; Wetaug,  341 ; Pulaski, 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


Calumet.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Carbondale. 


849  ; Villa  Ridge,  853  ; Mounds,  357 ; 
Cairo  (connects  by  ferry  with  Mobile  & 
Ohio  Railway  at  Columbus),  865. 

Claicag’O,  (See  page  6.) 

Calaunet,  (14  miles)  connects  with 
the  Michigan  Central  Railway. 

ItSattetoii  (28  miles)  is  at  the  cross- 
ing of  the  Joliet  Branch  known  as  the 
Joliet  Cut-off. 

]f3o2iee  (34  miles)  is  the  highest 
point  on  the  road,  being  upon  the  dividing 
ridge  between  Lake  Michigan  and  the 
Mississippi. 

(56  miles),  the  capital 
of  Kankakee  County,  is  upon  the  river 
of  the  same  name,  which  is  one  of  the 
principal  tributaries  of  the  Illinois. 
When  the  railroad  was  commenced,  a 
forest  stood  upon  the  site  of  this  impor- 
tant town.  In  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood of  Kankakee  are  quarries  of  a 
superior  kind  of  limestone. 

CliftOBi.  (69  miles)  is  supplied  with 
water  by  means  of  artesian  wells,  a con- 
stant supply  being  obtained  at  a depth 
of  from  80  to  100  feet.  The  streets  are 
well  graded  and  planted  with  shade-trees. 

(81  miles),  a rapidly-grow- 
ing town,  connects  with  the  Toledo^ 
Peoria  ds  Warsaw  Railway. 

(85  miles)  is  in  the  midst 
of  a noted  fruit-region.  It  is  the  site  of 
the  Onarga  Institute  and  the  Grand 
Prairie  Seminary,  both  flourishing  insti- 
tutions. 

£joda>  (99  miles),  beautifully  located 
on  undulating  ground  in  the  centre  of 
Grand  Prairie,  is  the  market  for  the 
agricultural  products  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

Pa^xton.  (103  miles),  the  capital  of 
Ford  county,  is  the  seat  of  a Swedish 
college  named  the  Augustina  College  of 
North  America^  which  has  in  its  library 
5,000  volumes  presented  by  the  King  of 
Sweden.  The  schools  of  Paxton  are 
remarkably  good. 

Cliampaig’ii.  (128  miles),  connect- 
ing with  the  Indianapolis^  Bloomington 

Western  Railway^  is  one  of  the  most 
prosperous  places  on  the  line  of  the 
road.  Its  schools  are  large  and  well  con- 
ducted. 

'Toloiao  (137  miles)  is  at  the  cross- 
ing of  the  Toledo^  Wabash  Western 
Railway, 


Tuscola  (150  miles)  is  the  capital 
of  Douglas  County.  The  first  house  was 
built  in  1857 ; since  then  the  place  has 
grown  very  rapidly,  and  has  noAV  a popu- 
lation of  about  2,500. 

Mattooai.  (173  miles).  (See  page 
59.) 

(199  miles),  the  capital 
of  Effingham  County,  is  a thriving  place. 
It  connects  with  the  St.  JAuis,  Vandalia^ 
Terre  Haute  & Indianapolis  Railway. 

E^gewood.  (215  miles)  connects 
with  the  Springfield  Illinois  Southeast- 
ern Railway, 

KinmuLaday  (229  miles)  is  one  of 
the  most  rapidly-growing  places  in  this 
part  of  Illinois.  It  is  particularly  noted 
for  the  fine  fruit  raised  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

Odin  (244  miles)  is  a very  prosper- 
ous place,  at  the  crossing  of  the  Ohio  dt 
3Iississippi  Railway. 

Centralia  (253  miles),  connecting 
with  the  Main  Line  of  the  Illinois  Central 
Railway,  is  a busy  town  of  between  5,000 
and  6,000  inhabitants.  The  cultivation 
of  fruit  receives  much  attention  in  this 
neighborhood,  and  very  large  quantities 
of  peaches  are  shipped  annually  to  Chi- 
cago. 

AsMey  (266  miles),  situated  on  a 
rolling  and  well-watered  prairie,  connects 
with  the  St.  Louis  Southeastern  Rail- 
way. 

Tamaroa.  (280  miles)  is  a flourish- 
ing place,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a rich 
fruit-growing  region.  It  does  a large 
coal-shipping  trade,  coal  of  a superior 
quality  being  found  in  the  neighborhood. 

Quoin.  (289  miles)  is  a rapidly- 
growing  city  of  about  5,000  inhabitants, 
surrounded  by  fertile  prairie-land,  diver- 
sified here  and  there  by  belts  of  fine  tim- 
ber. Fruit-raising,  tobacco  and  cotton 
growing,  and  general  agriculture,  are  great 
sources  of  prosperity  to  the  place ; but 
the  principal  business  is  coal-mining, 
about  a dozen  companies  being  in  active 
operation.  The  Belleville  <Ss  Southern  Illi- 
nois Division  of  St.  Louis,  Alton  dc  Terre 
Haute  Railway  connects  at  this  point. 

CarlJondale  (308  miles)  is  a very 
busy  town,  having  a number  of  cotton- 
gins,  mills,  etc.,  the  leading  productions 
of  the  adjacent  plantations  being  cotton 
and  tobacco.  One-fourth  of  all  the 
195 


Makanda.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Bloomington. 


tobacco  grown  in  the  State  is  sent  to 
market  from  this  place. 

MaliaEiilsi  (317  miles),  lying  be- 
tween two  rocky  bluffs,  is  the  centre  of  a 
rich  farming  country,  particularly  well 
adapted  to  fruit-growing. 

ji'oaeslEoro  (329  miles),  the  capital 
of  Union  County,  is  a prosperous  place, 
situated  in  a hilly  country  about  four  miles 
from  the  Mississippi  River.  Limestone 
crops  out  among  the  hills,  fine  building- 
stone  abounds,  and  iron-ore  is  found  in 
the  neighborhood.  Near  the  village  are 
some  remarkable  springs  and  large  caves. 
Jonesboro  is  the  principal  town  of  the 
great  fruit-region  of  Southern  Illinois, 
and  is  also  the  mart  of  large  crops  of 
cotton.  The  Southern  State  Insane  Asy- 
lum is  building  at  this  place,  and  will 
probably  be  finished  this  year.  Bold 
Knob^  the  highest  point  of  land  in  the 
State,  is  five  miles  north  of  Jonesboro. 

Villa,  l&idg’e  (353  miles)  is  at  the 
commencement  of  a series  of  ridges  or 
terraces,  rising  from  the  Mississippi 
River  and  extending  to  and  along  the 
Ohio,  furnishing  excellent  sites  for  villas, 
vineyards,  and  orchards.  Fruit,  tobacco, 
cotton,  and  sorghum,  are  extensively  cul- 
tivated and  thrive  well  in  this  part  of  the 
State. 

Mounds  (357  miles).  From  here 
Mound  City^  three  miles  distant,  is 
reached. 

Cairo  (365  miles)  is  described  in 
Lake  and  River  Tour  No.  II.  {See  page 
172.)  A ferry  connects  the  city  with  the 
Mobile  & Ohio  Railway  at  Columbus,  Ky. 

MOUTE  II. 

CHICAGO  TO  SI.  LOUIS. 

Via  Chicago  & Alton  Railway  (Air  Line). 

Stations.  — Chicago  : Bridgeport,  4 
miles;  Summit,  12;  Willow  Springs, 
18  ; Lemont,  26  ; Lockport,  33  ; Joliet 
(connects  with  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & 
Pacific  Railway),  37  ; Elwood,  46  ; 
Hampton,  49  ; Wilmington,  63 ; Braid- 
wood,  58  ; Braceville,  61  ; Gardner,  65  ; 
Dwight  (connects  with  Western  Divis- 
ion), 74 ; Odell,  82  ; Cayuga,  87  ; Pon- 
tiac, 92 ; Chenoa  (connects  with  Tole- 
do, Peoria  & Warsaw  Railway),  103 ; 
Lexington,  111;  Towanda,  119;  Nor- 
196 


mal  (connects  with  main  line  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  124;  Bloomington 
(Jacksonville  Division  diverges,  uniting 
with  main  line  again  at  Godfrey),  126  ; 
Shirley,  133  ; McLean,  141 ; Atlanta,  146  ; 
Lawn  Dale,  150  ; Lincoln,  157  ; Broad  well, 
164;  Elkhart,  168;  Williamsville,  174; 
Springfield,  185  ; Toledo,  Wabash  & West- 
ern Railway  Junction),  187 ; Chatham, 
194  ; Auburn,  200  ; Virden,  206 ; Girard, 
210 ; Nilwood,  214  ; Carlinville,  223  ; Ma- 
coupin, 230;  Shipman,  238;  Brighton  (con- 
nects with  Rockford,  Rock  Island  & St. 
Louis  Railway),  245  ; Godfrey  (Jackson- 
ville Division  unites),  252  ; Alton  (con- 
nects with  Indianapolis  k St.  Louis  Rail- 
way), 257  ; Milton,  261  ; Mitchell,  269  ; 
Kinder,  274  ; Venice,  276  ; East  St.  Louis 
(connects  with  all  divergent  railway  and 
steamboat  lines),  280. 

This  road  runs  through  a part  of  the 
State  similar  in  every  respect  to  that 
traversed  by  the  Chicago  Division  of  the 
Illinois  Central  Railway,  described  in  the 
preceding  Route. 

Ijockport  (33  miles),  a prosperous 
town  on  the  Res  Blaines  River^  and  on 
the  Illinois  db  Michigan  Canal^  derives  a 
large  revenue  from  its  stone-quarries. 
It  has  a fine  water-power. 

(37  miles).  {See  page  75.) 

Wymirngton  (53  miles),  on  the 
Kankakee  River ^ from  which  it  derives  a 
water-power,  has  a thrifty  and  rapidly- 
increasing  population. 

(74  miles).  Western  DU 
vision  of  the  road  diverges  at  this  place. 

l^oiEtiac  (92  miles),  the  capital  of 
Livingston  County,  is  situated  on  the 
Vermilion  River ^ in  a fine  grain-raising 
country.  It  is  something  of  a milling- 
town  as  well  as  a large  grain-depot. 

ClieiEoa  (103  miles).  {See  page  81.) 

Normal  (124  miles)  is  surrounded 
by  the  largest  nurseries  in  the  State,  and 
by  farms  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of 
hedge-plants.  Coal-mines  are  worked 
in  the  vicinity.  The  State  Normal  TJnU 
versity  and  the  Soldiers'  Orphans'  Home 
are  located  in  the  city.  Connections 
both  here  and  at  Burlington  are  made 
with  the  Main  Line  of  the  Illinois  Central 
Railway, 

Hiooming^toii  (126  miles),  the 
capital  of  McLean  County,  is  one  of  the 
principal  cities  in  the  State.  It  is  a 


Atlanta.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Bushnell. 


great  railroad  centre,  and  is  inereasing 
rapidly  in  population  and  wealth,  while 
the  surrounding  country  is  fast  filling  up, 
farms  are  being  cultivated,  and  large 
droves  of  cattle  are  fattened  for  the 
market,  grazing  and  hay-making  being 
very  profitable  in  this  region.  The  city 
is  handsomely  built,  is  lighted  by  gas, 
has  street  railways,  and,  unlike  most 
young  Western  “cities,”  is  one  in  fact 
as  well  as  in  name.  Steam  fire-engines 
are  in  use,  and  the  principal  streets  are  be- 
ing macadamized.  Some  of  the  church- 
es are  very  tasteful  in  design,  and  well 
built ; one  of  the  school-houses  cost  $30,- 
000.  Many  of  the  stores  are  large  and 
well  stocked,  and  the  wholesale  houses 
compete  with  those  of  Chicago  and  St. 
Louis  for  the  trade  of  the  neighboring 
towns.  The  Market,  Opera-House,  Am- 
phitheatre, etc.,  arc  large  buildings  calcu- 
lated rather  to  meet  the  growing  wants 
of  the  city  than  the  present  demand. 
There  are  excellent  public  schools,  two 
boarding-schools  for  girls,  and  a Roman 
Catholic  seminary.  Two  daily  papers 
are  published  here.  The  shops  of  the 
Chicago  & Alton  Railway  Company, 
for  the  construction  and  repair  of  cars 
and  locomotives,  are  built  of  stone,  and 
with  the  yards  attached  cover  13  acres 
of  ground.  There  are  numerous  mills 
and  factories  of  all  descriptions.  The 
population  of  the  place  is  about  15,000. 
The  Jacksonville  Branch  diverges  at  this 
place,  reuniting  with  the  Main  Line  at 
Godfrey.  Bloomington  connects  with  the 
Illinois  Central  and  the  Indianapolis^ 
Bloomington  Western  Railways. 

Atla<iAt£L  (146  miles)  stands  upon 
a high  prairie.  It  is  a thriving,  active 
place,  having  a good  trade  with  the 
surrounding  country,  and  shipping  large 
herds  of  cattle  and  quantities  of  grain. 

ILiincoliB.  (157  miles),  named  in 
honor  of  the  late  President  Lincoln,  is 
the  capital  of  Logan  County.  It  is 
situated  on  Salt  Creek,  Although  only 
founded  a few  years  ago,  it  is  already 
a place  of  some  importance. 

^pringffieldL  (185  miles).  (See 
page  84.) 

(200  miles)  is  in  the 
midst  of  a rich  farming  country,  and  is 
rapidly  increasing  in  importance  and 
population. 


Carlinville  (223  miles'),  the  capital 
of  Macoupin  County,  is  a prosperous  and 
attractive  village.  It  is  the  seat  of 
Blackburn  Theological  Seminary. 

Hrig-Satoa  (245  miles)  is  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Rockford^  Rock  Island  do 
St.  Louis  Railway. 

(252  miles)  is  a small 
village  at  the  junction  of  the  Chicago 
Alton  Railway  with  the  Jacksonville  Di- 
vision. 

Alloa  (257  miles).  (See  page  162.) 

Ea.^1  ^1.  Buoais  (280  miles).  (See 
page  46.) 

mouth:  III. 

CHICAGO  TO  QUINCY. 

Via  Chicgao^  Burlington  db  Qmncy  Railway. 

Stations. — Chicago:  River  Side,  12; 
Hinsdale,  18 ; Downer’s  Grove,  23 ; Na- 
perville, 29  ; Aurora,  38  ; Bristol,  46  ; 
Plano,  53 ; Somanauk,  60 ; Leland,  66  ; 
Earl,  73  ; Mendota  (connects  with  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  84 ; Arlington,  92 ; 
Malden,  99 ; Princeton,  105 ; Chicago, 
Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway  Junc- 
tion, 113;  Buda  (connects  with  Buda 
& Rushville  Branch),  117;  Neponset, 
124;  Kewanee,  132;  Galva  (connects 
with  Galva  & New  Boston  Branch), 
140;  Altona,  147;  Oneida,  151;  Wa- 
taga,  156 ; Galesburg  (connects  with 
Branches  to  Burlington  and  Peoria),  163 ; 
Abingdon,  173;  St.  Augustine,  179; 
Avon,  183 ; Prairie  City,  186 ; Bush- 
nell (connects  with  Toledo,  Peoria  & 
Warsaw  Railway  and  with  Rockford, 
Rock  Island  & St.  Louis  Railway),  192 
Bardolph,  196;  Macomb,  204;  Colches- 
ter, 210;  Tennessee,  212;  Colmar,  218; 
Plymouth,  223  ; Augusta,  227;  La  Prairie, 
234 ; Camp  Point  (connects  with  Toledo, 
Wabash  & Western  Railway),  242 ; 
Coatsburg,  247 ; Paloma,  250 ; Cliola, 
254 ; Quincy  (connects  with  Hannibal  & 
St.  Joseph  Railway),  263. 

Prom  Chicago  to  Galesburg,  this  route 
is  identical  with  Route  XIY.  (See  page 
78.) 

ISiasIamell  (192  miles),  a rapidly- 
growing  village  of  some  importance,  con- 
nects with  the  Toledo^  Peoria  dc  Warsaw 
and  the  Rockford^  Rock  Island  Pacific 
Railways. 


197 


Macomb.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Dubuquk. 


]fIacom'3>  (204  miles),  a large  and 
beautiful  village,  the  capital  of  Mac- 
Donough  County,  stands  upon  a rich  and 
highly-cultivated  prairie.  It  is  the  ship- 
ping-point for  an  extensive  agricultural 
region. 

CaMip  (242  miles)  is  a vil- 

lage at  the  junction  with  the  Toledo^  Wa- 
bash do  Western  Railway. 

(263  miles).  (Sec  page  162.) 


n O UTE  IV. 

CHICAGO  TO  HUNLEITH,  ILL.,  AND 
DUBUQUE,  IOWA. 

Via  Galena  Dimsion  of  Chicago  S North 
Western  Railway  and  the  Centralia  Divis- 
ion of  Illinois  Central  Railway. 

Stations  on  the  Galena  Division  of 
THE  Chicago  & Northwestern  Rail- 
way.— Chicago : Austin,  6 miles  ; Harlem, 
9 ; Elmhurst,  16  ; Lombard,  20;  Danby, 
23  ; Wheaton,  25  ; Winfield,  28  ; Junction 
(diverges  from  mainline),  30;  Wayne, 
36 ; Clintonville,  39  ; Elgin,  42  ; Gilbert’s, 
50 ; Huntley,  55  ; Union,  63 ; Marengo, 
66;  Garden  Prairie,  72;  Belvidere,  78; 
Cherry  Yailey,  84 ; Rockford,  93;  Win- 
nebago, 100;  Pekatonica,  107;  Ridott, 
114;  Freeport  (connects  with  Western 
Union  Railway),  121. 

Stations  on  the  Centralia  Division 
OF  the  Illinois  Central  Railway.  — 
Eleroy,  129  miles  from  Chicago;  Lena, 
133;  Nora,  141;  Warren  (connects  with 
Mineral  Point  Railway),  144 ; Apple  Riv- 
er, 150;  Scales  Mound,  159;  Council 
Hill,  164  ; Galena,  171 ; Menominee,  180 ; 
Dunleith,  188;  Dubuque  (connects  with 
Iowa  division  and  v/ith  Dubuque  South- 
western Railway),  189. 

(See  page  6.) 

Kelvidere  (78  miles),  the  capital 
of  Boone  County,  is  on  the  Kishwaukee 
River.  It  is  situated  in  a fertile  and  un- 
dulating country,  and  has  an  active  trade. 

ISocltlbri  (93  miles)  is  a flourish- 
ing city,  on  both  sides  of  Rock  River. 
It  is  the  capital  of  Winnebago  County, 
is  the  centre  of  active  business,  and  has 
abundant  water-power.  The  city  has 
nearly  all  been  built  since  1836. 

I'Veeport  (121  miles),  the  capital 
of  Stephenson  County,  is  on  the  Peka- 
tonica River,  at  the  junction  of  the  (Jen- 
198 


tral  Railway  (main  line)  and  the  Galciut 
Division  of  the  Chicago  Northwestern. 

<^£tlcnsi.  (171  miles),  a flourishing 
city,  the  capital  of  Daviess  County,  is  on 
Fevre  River,  six  miles  from  its  entrance 
into  the  Mississippi  River,  450  miles 
above  St.  Louis.  “ The  river  on  whose 
rocky  shelf  this  town  is  built  is  more 
properly  an  arm  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
setting  up  between  lofty  bluffs,  around 
whose  base  it  winds  with  picturesque 
effect.  The  streets  rise  one  above  an- 
other, and  communicate  with  each  other 
by  flights  of  steps,  so  that  the  houses  on 
the  higher  streets  are  perched  like  an 
eagle’s  eyrie,  overlooking  the  rest,  and 
commanding  an  extensive  prospect. 
Pleasant  churches  meet  the  eye  on  the 
first  ledge  or  terrace  above  the  levee, 
and  private  residences,  wearing  an  aspect 
of  neatness  and  comfort,  adorn  each  suc- 
cessive height.”  Galena  owes  its  growth 
and  importance  mainly  to  the  rich  mines 
of  lead  which  surround  it  in  all  direc- 
tions. Copper  is  found  in  large  quan- 
tities in  connection  with  the  lead.  The 
Fevre  River  is  navigable  by  steamboats, 
which  make  regular  trips  to  St.  Louis, 
St.  Paul,  and  other  ports  on  the  Missis- 
sippi River.  Galena  has  a large  and 
rapidly-increasing  trade.  It  derives  its 
name  from  a species  of  lead-ore.  Presi- 
dent Grant  made  this  city  his  home  for 
many  years.  An  . error  in  the  spelling 
and  pronunciation  of  Fevre  River  (named 
after  La  Fevre,  an  early  French  trader) 
has  given  some  currency  to  an  unfounded 
impression  that  Galena  is  an  unhealthful 
place.  Population,  7,019. 

(188  miles),  the  capital 
of  Jo  Daviess  County,  is  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  opposite 
Dubuque. 

(189  miles).  (See  page 

161.) 

no  UTE  V. 

CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS,  TO  MADISON,  WIS- 
CONSIN 

Via  Madison  Division  of  Chicago  <&  North- 
western Railway. 

Stations.— Chicago  : Canfield,  12  miles ; 
Des  Plaines,  17 ; Palatine,  26  ; Barrington, 
32;  Crystal  Lake,  43;  Woodstock,  51  ; 


♦ Thompson’s  Letters. 


Chicago.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Kenosha, 


Harvard  (Wisconsin  Division  and  Keno- 
sha Division  diverge),  63 ; Caledonia, 
78  ; Beloit  (connects  with  Western  Union 
Railway),  91  ; Afton,  98  ; Hanover,  104; 
Magnolia,  111  ; Oregon,  128 ; Madison 
(connects  with  railways  diverging),  138. 

CSiicag'O.  {See  page  6.) 

Cry  still  (43  miles)  is  a 

pretty  village,  on  a small  lake  of  the  same 
name. 

ISnrvsiriS.  (63  miles)  is  a village  at 
the  intersection  of  the  Chicago  Norih- 
western  and  Kenosha  <h  Backford  JRaiU 
ways. 

(78  miles)  is  a village 
at  the  intersection  of  the  Kenosha  <Sc 
Rockford  Railway  and  the  Madision  Di- 
vision. 

ISeloit  (91  miles),  a flourishing  city 
in  Rock  County,  Wisconsin,  is  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  Turtle  Greek.,  upon  two  plains, 
one  rising  abruptly  60  or  70  feet  from  the 
other.  It  is  regularly  laid  out  with  pub- 
lic grounds,  broad  streets,  ornamented 
with  shade-trees,  and  surrounded  by  fine 
prairie  country,  interspersed  with  groves 
of  timber.  The  city  is  noted  for  its  fine 
churches.  One  of  these,  the  First  Con- 
gregational, is  built  of  stone,  and  is  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  in  the 
State.  There  are  good  public  schools  in 
the  place,  and  Beloit  College.,  founded  in 
1846,  a flourishing  academy,  richly  en- 
dowed. The  Chicago  Northwestern  Rail- 
way connects  at  Beloit  with  the  Western 
Union  Railway. 

Madison  (138  miles),  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  Wisconsin,  and  seat  of 
justice  of  Dane  County,  is  delightfully 
situated  on  an  isthmus  between  Lakes 
Mendota  and  Monono,  in  the  centre  of  a 
broad  valley  — surrounded  by  heights, 
from  which  the  city  can  be  seen  at  a dis- 
tance of  several  miles.  Lake  Mendota.,  ^ 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  lies  on  the  north- 
west side  of  the  town.  It  is  six  miles  long 
by  four  miles  wide,  and  deep  enough  for  the 
navigation  of  steamboats.  Lake  Monono 
is  smaller.  In  1836,  when  Madison  was 
selected  for  the  seat  of  government,  the 
only  house  it  contained  was  one  miserable 
log-cabin.  It  is  now  handsomely  built 
up,  and  contains  several  fine  structures, 
among  which  are  the  Capitol  and  the  Uni- 
versity of  Wisconsin.  The  Capitol,  built 
of  stone,  at  a cost  of  $500,000,  is  a state- 


ly edifice,  standing  in  the  centre  of  a pub- 
lic park,  on  ground  70  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lakes.  The  streets  leading  from 
this  building  toward  the  cardinal  points 
descend  gradually  to  the  shores  of  the 
lakes,  except  the  one  which  extends  west- 
v/ard  to  College  Hill.  On  this  eminence, 
one  mile  west  of  the  Capitol,  and  about 
125  feet  above  the  lake,  stands  the  Uni- 
versity, founded  in  1849.  Madison  has 
some  large  manufactories,  but  is  most 
noted  as  an  agreeable  place  of  summer 
resort,  and  is  much  frequented  by  pleas- 
ure-seekers. Railroads  radiate  from  the 
city  toward  the  north,  south,  east,  and 
west.  Population  in  1860,  6,611  ; 1870, 
about  10,000. 

M O UTB  VI. 

CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS,  TO  KENOSHA,  TFZ5- 
CONSIN. 

Via  Milwaukee  Division  Chicago  & North- 
western Hallway . 

Stations. — Chicago  : Ravenswood,  6 
miles  ; Evanston,  12  ; Glencoe,  19  ; High- 
land Park,  23;  Lake  Forest,  28;  Wau- 
kegan, 36  ; State  Line,  45  ; Kenosha  (Ke- 
nosha Division  connects),  51. 

This  road  is  along  the  western  shore 
of  Lake  Michigan. 

Oaicago.  {See  page  6.) 

'Waiiliegaia  (36  miles),  formerly 
called  Littlefort,  is  a picturesquely-situa- 
ted and  flourishing  town,  and  the  capital 
of  Lake  County,  Illinois.  Opposite  the  city 
the  lake  is  about  80  miles  wide.  Wauke- 
gan does  a large  export  business  in  grain, 
wool,  and  butter.  It  has  regular  steam- 
boat communication  with  Chicago  and 
other  lake-ports. 

MesaosSia  (51  miles),  the  capital  of 
Kenosha  County,  is  the  most  southerly 
lake-port  of  Wisconsin.  It  has  a good 
harbor,  with  piers  extending  into  Lake 
Michigan.  The  rich  prairie-lands  in  the 
neighborhood  are  higly  cultivated,  and 
furnish  the  place  with  a good  export- 
trade.  Kenosha  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Afilwauket  and  Kenosha  Divisions  of  the 
Chicago  & Northwestern  Railways. 


199 


Kenosha.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Bloomington. 


MOUTB  VII. 

KENOSHA,  WISCONSIN,  TO  BOGKFOKI), 
ILLINOIS. 

Via  Kenosha  Bwision  CMcago  & North/west- 
ern Railway. 

Stations.  — Kenosha:  Fox  River,  19 
miles  ; Genoa,  27 ; Harvard  (connects  with 
Wisconsin  Division  and  with  Madison  Di- 
vision), 44  ; Poplar  Grove,  66  ; Caledonia 
(connects  with  Branch  to  Belvidere),  60 ; 
Rockford  (connects  with  Galena  Divis- 
ion), 72. 

iieiaoslaa,  (/Seepage  199.) 
Harvard.  (44  miles).  (See  page 
199.) 

CaledoEnia  (60  miles).  (See  page 
199.) 

Hoclclbrd  (72  miles).  (See  page 
198.) 

lL<a  ^alle  (147  miles).  (See  page 
76.) 

Iflooiaiiig-toai  (207  miles).  (See 
page  196.) 

Hecaiar  (257  miles).  (See  page 
84.) 

Taiadalia  (313  miles).  (See  page 

46.) 

The  route  from  Centralia  to  Cairo  is 
identical  with  Route  I.  of  Illinois. 


MOUTH  FJJJ* 

RUNLEITH  TO  CAIRO 

Via  Northern  Rirision  Illinois  Central 
Railway. 

Stations.  — Dunleith : Menominee,  8 
miles ; Galena,  17 ; Council  Hill,  24 ; Scales 
Mound,  29  ; Apple  River,  38 ; Warren 
(connects  with  Mineral  Point  Railway), 
44 ; Nora;  47 ; Lena,  55  ; Eleroy,  59  ; 
Freeport  (connects  with  Galena  Division 
of  Chicago  & Northwestern  and  Western 
Union  Railways),  67 ; Baileyville,  74 ; 
Foreston,  80 ; Haldane,  85  ; Polo,  90 ; 
Woosung,  96  ; Dixon  (connects  with  Iowa 
Division  Chicago  & Northwestern  Rail- 
way), 103;  Amboy,  115;  Sublette,  123; 
Mendota  (connects  with  Chicago,  Burling- 
ton & Quincy  Railway),  131  ; Homer, 
139  ; La  Salle  (connects  with  Chicago, 
Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway),  147  ; To- 
nica,  156;  Wenona,  167;  Minonk,  178; 
Panola,  186  ; El  Paso  (connects  with  To- 
ledo, Peoria  & Warsaw  Railway),  189; 

200 


Hudson,  198  ; Normal  (connects  with  Chi. 
cago  & Alton  Railway),  205 ; Blooming- 
ton (connects  with  Indianapolis,  Bloom- 
ington & Western  Railway),  207  ; Hcy- 
worth,  219;  Wapella,  225;  Clinton,  229; 
Maroa,  238  ; Decatur  (connects  with  To- 
ledo, Wabash  & Western  Railway),  251  ; 
Wheatland,  256  ; Macon,  261 ; Moawe- 
qua,  266 ; Assumption,  274 ; Pana  (con- 
nects with  Indianapolis  & St.  Louis  and 
Springfield  & Illinois  Southeastern  Rail- 
way), 283  ; Oconee,  290  ; Ramsey,  300  ; 
Yandalia  (connnects  with  St.  Louis,  Yan- 
dalia  & Terre  Haute  Railway),  313  ; She- 
bonier,  319  ; Patoka,  327 ; Sandoval  (con- 
nects with  Ohio  & Mississippi  Railway), 
337 ; Centralia  (connects  with  Chicago 
Division),  343 ; Richview,  353 ; Ashley 
(connects  with  St.  Louis  & Southeastern 
Railway),  356  ; Tamaroa,  370  ; Du  Quoin 
(connects  with  St.  Louis,  Alton  & Terre 
Haute  Railway),  379  ; De  Soto,  392  ; Car- 
bondale,  398  ; Makanda,  407  ; Cobden, 
413;  Jonesboro’,  419;  Dongola,  429  ; 
Wetaug,  431 ; Pulaski,  439 ; Yilla  Ridge, 
443  ; Mounds,  447 ; Cairo  (connects  with 
ferry  to  Columbus,  the  northern  terminus 
of  the  Mobile  & Ohio  Railway),  456. 

All  stations  of  any  importance  along 
this  route  have  already  been  described. 
From  Dunleith  to  Freeport  is  identical 
with  Route  IY.  of  Illinois. 

£>ixon.  (103  miles)  is  described  in 
Route  XI.  (See  page  72.) 

Meiad-ota  (131  miles).  (See  page 
79.) 


M O UTE  IX. 

BLOOMINGTON  TO  ALTON. 

Via  JacksomUle  Bivision  of  Chicago  & Alton 
Railway. 

Stations. — ^Bloomington  (connects  with 
Main  Line  of  Chicago  & Alton  Railway) : 
Stamford,  12 miles;  Hopedale,  23  ; Dela- 
van,  31 ; Mason  City,  46  ; Petersburg,  61 ; 
Ashland,  74;  Jacksonville  (connects  with 
Toledo,  Wabash  & Western  and  Peoria, 
Pekin  & Jacksonville  Railways),  89; 
Whitehall  (connects  with  Rockford,  Rock 
Island  & St.  Louis  Railway),  114  ; Carroll- 
ton, 123  ; Jerseyville,  136;  Godfrey,  150; 
Alton  (connects  with  Indianapolis  & St. 
Louis  Railway),  156. 

HloomliigtoiA.  (See  page  196.) 


Jacksonville.] 


ILLINOIS. 


[Stations. 


«Fa.ckson.T£lie  (89  miles).  {See 
page  85.) 

Alton  (156  miles).  {See  page  162.) 

MOUTE  X. 

PEORIA  TO  ALTON. 

Via  Peoria^  Pekin  & JacJcsonmlle  Railway 

and  Jacksonville  Pivision  of  Chicago  & Al- 
ton Railway. 

Stations. — Peoria  (connects  with  Chica- 
go, Rock  Island  & Pacific,  Toledo,  Peoria 
& Warsaw,  and  Chicago,  Burlington  & 
Quincy  Railways) : Hollis,  8 miles  ; Pe- 
kin (connects  v/ith  Indianapolis,  Bloom- 
ington & Western  Railway),  10;  Haines- 
ville,  19  ; Manito,  22 ; Forest  City,  27 ; 
Topeka,  33 ; Havana,  41  ; Bath,  49  ; 
Chandlersville,  59 ; Virginia,  68 ; Little 
Indian,  72;  Jacksonville  (connects  with 
Toledo,  Wabash  & Western  Railway),  83  ; 
Alton,  150. 

;^eoria.  {See  page  81.) 

E^eliin  (10  miles),  the  capital  and 
largest  place  of  Tazewell  County,  is  on 
the  left  bank  of  Illinois  River.  It  does  a 
large  produce-shipping  business.  The 
Peoria^  Pekin  <Sc  Jacksonville^  and  the  In- 
dianapolis^ Bloomington  & Western  Rail- 
ways connect  here. 

•faclcsoiaville  (83  miles).  {See 
page  85.) 

Altoai  (150  miles).  {See  page  162.) 

MOUTE  XI. 

PEORIA  TO  WARSAW. 

Via  Toledo^  Peoria  efi  Wa/rsaw  Railway, 

Stations. — Peoria  (connects  with  Pe- 
oria, Pekin  k Jacksonville  Railway) : Can- 
ton, 28  miles  ; Bushnell  (connects  with 
Chicago,  Burlington  & Quincy  Railway), 
60 ; La  Harpe,  85  ; Elvaston,  105  ; Warsaw 
(connects  by  ferry  to  Keokuk  with  Hes 
Moines  Valley  Railway),  117. 

3®eoria.  {See  page  81.) 

JSiasliiaell  (60 miles).  (Seepage  81.) 

Warsaw  (117  miles).  {See  page  82.) 

M O UTE  XII. 

DANVILLE  TO  PEORIA. 

Via  Indianapolis,  Bloomington  &,  Western 
Railway. 

Stations. — Danville,  85  miles  from  In- 
dianapolis (connects  with  Toledo,  Wa- 


bash & Western  Railway):  Ogden,  18 
miles  from  Danville  ; Urbana,  32  ; Cham- 
paign (connects  with  Chicago  Division  of 
Illinois  Central  Railway),  33  ; Mahomet, 
43  ; Farmer’s  City,  57  ; Leroy,  66  ; Bloom- 
ington (connects  with  Chicago  & Alton 
Railway  and  Northern  Division  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  81 ; Danvers,  92  ; Tre- 
mont,  110;  Pekin  (connects  with  Peorii, 
Pekin  k Jacksonville  Railway),  117  ; Pe- 
oria (connects  with  Chicago,  Burlington 
k Quincy  Railway),  127. 

l^anville  (see  page  84).  The  Chi- 
cago, Danville  dc  Vincennes  Railway,  now 
finished  to  this  place,  opens  up  a new  and 
short  route  to  Chicago. 

¥Irl>aiia  is  a small  village. 

ISloontlng^loii  (81  miles).  {See 
page  196.) 

I®eoria  (127  miles).  {See  page  81.) 

M O UTE  XIII. 

STERLING,  ILLINOIS,  TO  ST.  LOUIS, 
MISSOURI. 

Via  Rockford,  Rock  Island  efe  St.  Louis  Rail- 
way. 

Stations.  — Sterling  (connects  with 
Iowa  Division  of  Chicago  k Northwest- 
ern Railway);  Lyndon,  13  miles;  Erie, 
22  ; Rock  River  Junction,  36.;  Port  Byron 
Junction  (connects  with  Western  Union 
Railway),  45  ; Rock  Island  (connects  with 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  k Pacific  Railway), 
52 ; Orion,  70 ; Rio,  88 ; Monmouth 
(connects  with  Chicago,  Burlington  k 
Quincy  Railway),  108;  Roseville,  121; 
Bushnell  (connects  with  Chicago,  Bur- 
lington k Quincy  and  with  Toledo,  Peo- 
ria & Warsaw  Railways),  137;  Vermont, 
156;  Astoria,  163;  Beardstown,  180; 
Arenzville,  190 ; Chapin  (connects  with 
Toledo,  Wabash  k Western  Railway), 
199;  Winchester,  209;  Whitehall  (con- 
nects with  Jacksonville  Division  of  Chi- 
cago k Alton  Railway),  224 ; Sheffield, 
241 ; Brighton  (connects  with  Chicago  k 
Alton  Railway),  258 ; Alton  Junction 
(connects  with  Indianapolis  k St.  Louis 
Railway),  270  ; East  St.  Louis  (connects 
with  railways  diverging),  291  ; St.  Louis, 
292. 

Every  place  of  any  importance  along 
this  road  has  already  been  described. 

201 


Stations.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Iowa, 


It  O UTE  XI  V. 

SPRINGFIELD  TO  PANA. 

Via  Springfield  <fc  Illinois  Southeastern  Rail- 
way. 

Stations. — Springfield  (connects  with 
railways  diverging) : Clarksville,  10 

miles ; Taylorville,  27 ; Pana  (connects 
with  Chicago  Branch  of  Illinois  Central 
Railway),  43. 

{Sec  page  84.) 

Stasia  (43  miles).  {See  page  59.) 

BO  UTE  XV, 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  MOUNT  VERNON. 

Via  St.  Louis  & Southeastern  Railway. 
Stations. — East  St.  Louis  : Birkners, 
10  miles;  Belleville,  14  ; Pensenean,  29  ; 
Bridgeport,  39 ; Nashville,  49  ; Ashley 
(connects  with  Illinois  Central  Railway), 
60;  Woodlawn,  69;  Mount  Yernon,  76. 


East  St.  Eoais.  (6feepage46.) 
AsSiley  (60  miles)  is  a prosperous 
village  in  Washington  County. 

Mount  Aenioii  (76  miles)  is  the 
capital  of  Jefferson  County. 


BO  UTE  X VI. 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  CAIRO. 

Via  Belleville  & Southern  Illinois  Division  of 
the  St.  Louis^  Alton  <fc  Terre  Haute  Railway. 

Stations. — East  St.  Louis:  Bellevue, 
14  miles  ; New  Athens,  29  ; Tilden  (con- 
nects with  stages  for  Sparta),  42  ; Pinck- 
neyville,  54  ; Du  Quoin  (connects  with 
Illinois  Central  Railway),  71 ; Cairo, 
146. 

East  St.  Eoiiis.  {See  page  46.) 
Quoin.  (71  miles).  {See  page 

195.) 

C^airo  (146  miles).  {See  page  172.) 


IOWA. 


Iowa  was  organized  as  a Territory  in 
1838,  and  admitted  into  the  Union  in 
1846.  It  originally  formed  a part  of  the 
Louisiana  purchase,  and  subsequently  a 
part  of  Missouri  and  Wisconsin.  It  lies 
wholly  beyond  the  Mississippi.  On  this 
side,  its  neighbors  are  Wisconsin  and 
Illinois.  On  the  north  is  Minnesota ; on 
the  west,  Minnesota  and  Nebraska  ; and 
upon  the  south,  Missouri.  It  is  287  miles 
long  from  east  to  west,  and  210  miles 
broad,  and  embraces  an  area  of  thirty- 
two  and  a half  millions  of  acres,  of  which 
about  one-sixth  is  under  cultivation. 
The  State  has  no  very  notable  history, 
beyond  the  usual  adventure  and  hardship 
of  a forest-life  among  savage  tribes.  The 
settlement  of  the  region  was  commenced 
at  Burlington,  in  the  year  1833.  The 
landscape  of  Iowa  is  marked  by  the  fea- 
tures which  we  have  traced  in  our  visit 
to  neighboring  portions  of  the  North- 
west. The  surface  is,  for  the  most  part, 
one  of  undulating  prairie,  varied  with 
ridges  or  plateaus,  whose  extra  elevations 
impel  the  diverse  course  of  the  rivers 
and  streams.  The  Coteau  des  Frairies 
202 


enters  the  State  from  Minnesota,  and 
forms  its  highest  ground.  On  the  Mis- 
sissippi, in  the  northeast,  the  landscape 
assumes  a bolder  aspect,  and  pictures  of 
rugged,  rocky  height  and  bluff  are  seen. 
A few  miles  above  Dubuque,  Table  Mound 
will  interest  the  traveller.  It  is  a conical 
hill,  perhaps  500  feet  high,  flattened  at 
the  summit. 

It  has  been  estimated  that  about  nine- 
tenths  of  the  surface  of  Iowa  is  prairie. 
The  timber  is  generally  found  in  heavy 
bodies  skirting  the  streams,  but  there  are 
also  many  isolated  groves  standing,  like 
islands  in  the  sea,  far  out  on  the  prairies. 
The  eastern  half  of  the  State  contains  a 
larger  proportion  of  timber  than  the 
western.  The  following  are  the  leading 
varieties  of  timber : white,  black,  and 
burr  oak,  black  walnut,  butternut,  hick- 
ory, hard  and  soft  maple,  cherry,  red  and 
white  elm,  ash,  linn,  hackberry,  birch, 
honey  locust,  cottonwood,  and  quaking 
asp.  A few  sycamore-trees  are  found  in 
certain  localities  along  the  streams,  and 
groves  of  red  cedar,  especially  along 
Iowa  and  Cedar  Rivers. 


K I VERS.] 


IOWA. 


[Lakes. 


At  the  time  of  the  organization  of  the 
Territory  of  Wisconsin  in  1836,  the  en- 
tire white  population  of  that  portion 
which  now  constitutes  the  State  of  Iowa 
was  10,531.  Ill  1860  the  population  of 
the  State  was  518,1 70,  and  in  1870  it  was 
1,193,083.  The  total  valuation  of  real 
estate  and  personal  property  by  the  late 
census  is  given  as  $308,099,165,  against 
$205,166,985  in  1860. 

EIVE’ES. 

The  rivers  of  Iowa  are  divided  into 
two  systems  or  classes — those  flowing 
Into  the  Mississippi,  and  those  flowing 
into  the  Missouri.  The  Mississippi  wash- 
es the  entire  eastern  border  of  the  State, 
and  is  most  of  the  year  navigable  for  steam- 
boats of  a large  class.  The  only  serious 
obstruction  to  steamers  of  the  largest 
size  are  what  are  known  as  the  Lower 
Rapids,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Des 
Moines.  The  Government  of  the  United 
States  is  now  engaged  in  the  construction 
of  a canal,  or  channel,  around  these 
rapids  on  the  Iowa  side  of  the  river,  a 
work  which  will  prove  of  immense  ad- 
vantage to  the  commerce  of  lov.'^a  for  all 
time  to  come.  The  principal  rivers 
which  flow  through  the  interior  of  the 
State,  east  of  the  water-shed,  are  the 
Des  Moines j Slcunk^  lowa^  WapsipinicoHy 
Maquokeia^  Turkey^  and  Upper  Iowa, 
One  of  the  largest  rivers  of  the  State  is 
Red  Cedar ^ which  rises  in  Minnesota,  and, 
flowing  in  a southeasterly  direction,  joins 
its  waters  with  the  Iowa  River  in  Louisa 
County,  only  about  thirty  miles  from  its 
mouth,  that  portion  below  the  junction 
retaining  the  name  of  Iowa  River,  al- 
though it  is  reaUy  the  smaller  stream. 

The  southern  portion  of  the  State  is 
drained  by  several  streams  that  flow  into 
the  Missouri  River,  in  the  State  of  Mis- 
souri. The  most  important  of  these  are 
Chariton^  Grand^  Platte,,  One  Hundred 
and  Two^  and  the  three  Hodaways — East, 
West,  and  Middle.  All  of  these  afford 
water-power  for  machinery,  and  present 
splendid  valleys  of  rich  farming-lands. 

We  have  above  only  mentioned  the 
streams  that  have  been  designated  as 
rivers,  but  there  are  many  other  streams 
of  great  importance  and  value  to  different 
portions  of  the  State,  draining  the  country, 
furnishing-mill  sites,  and  adding  to  the 


variety  and  beauty  of  the  scenery.  So 
admirable  is  the  natural  drainage  of  al- 
most the  entire  State,  that  the  farmer 
who  has  not  a stream  of  living  water  on 
his  premises  is  an  exception  to  the  gen- 
eral rule. 

The  rivers  in  some  parts  of  the  State 
wind  through  ravines  of  magnesian  lime- 
stone, amid  which  they  have  gradually 
worked  their  way,  leaving  the  rocks  in 
every  grotesque  form  of  imagery.  The 
depressions  in  the  ground,  called  sinks, 
are  curious  objects.  These  singular 
places,  which  are  numerous,  are  circular 
holes,  ten  and  sometimes  tv/enty  feet 
across.  They  abound  more  particularly 
on  Turkey  River,  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  State.  Near  the  mouth  of  this 
stream  there  are  also  to  be  seen  many 
small  mounds,  sometimes  rows  of  them, 
varying  in  height  from  four  to  six  feet. 
Iowa  has  many  mineral  products,  among 
which  is  an  abundant  supply  of  lead. 
Copper  and  zinc  are  also  freely  found,  and 
plenty  of  coal. 

LAKES. 

The  following  are  among  the  most 
noted  of  the  lakes  of  Northern  Iowa : 
Clear  Lake^  in  Cerro  Gordo  County ; 
Rice  Lake,,  Silver  Lake,,  and  BriglWs  Lake, 
in  Worth  County;  Crystal  Lake,  Eagle 
Lake,  Lake  Edward,  and  Twin  Lakes,  in 
Hancock  County ; Owl  Lake,  in  Hum- 
boldt County ; Lake  Gertrude,  Lake  Cor- 
nelia, Elm  Lake,  2cn^Wall Lake,  in  Wright 
County  ; Lake  Caro,  in  Hamilton  County  ; 
Ticm  Lakes,  in  Calhoun  County;  Wall 
Lake,  in  Sac  County  ; Swan  Lake,  in  Em- 
met County ; Storm  Lake,  in  Buena 
Vista  County ; and  Okohoji  and  Spirit 
Lakes,  in  Dickinson  County.  Nearly  all 
of  these  are  deep  and  clear,  abounding 
in  many  excellent  varieties  of  fish,  which 
are  caught  abundantly  by  the  settlers  at 
all  proper  seasons  of  the  year.  The  name 
“ Wall  Lake,”  applied  to  several  of  these 
bodies  of  water,  is  derived  from  the  fact 
that  a line  or  ridge  of  bowlders  extends 
around  them,  giving  them  somewhat  the 
appearance  of  having  been  walled.  Most 
of  them  exhibit  the  same  appearance  in 
this  respect  to  a greater  or  less  extent. 

Lake  Okohoji,  Spirit  Lake,  Storm  Lake, 
and  Clear  Lake,  are  the  largest  of  the 
Northern  Iowa  lakes.  All  of  them,  ex- 
203 


Railroads.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mona. 


cept  Stoim  Lake,  have  fine  bodies  of 
timber  on  their  borders.  Lake  Okohoji 
is  about  fifteen  miles  long,  and  from  a 
quarter  of  a mile  to  two  miles  wide. 
Spirit  Lake^  just  north  of  it,  embraces 
about  ten  square  miles,  the  northern  bor- 
der extending  to  the  Minnesota  line. 
Storm  Lake  is  in  size  about  three  miles 
east  and  west  by  two  north  and  south. 
Clear  Lake  is  about  seven  miles  long  by 
two  miles  wide.  The  dry  rolling  land 
usually  extends  up  to  the  borders  of  the 
lakes,  making  them  delightful  resorts  for 
excursion  or  fishing  parties,  and  they  are 
now  attracting  attention  as  places  ot  re- 
sort, on  account  of  the  beauty  of  their 
natural  scenery,  as  well  as  the  induce- 
ments which  they  afford  to  hunting  and 
fishing  parties. 

RAILROADS. 

The  unprecedented  rapidity  with  which 
our  railroad  system  is  being  extended  is 
well  shown  in  some  statistics  which  have 
been  received  from  Iowa.  In  the  last 
eight  years,  no  less  than  two  thousand 
miles  have  been  constructed  in  that  State, 
of  which  more  than  one  thousand  have 
been  made  in  the  years  1869  and  1870. 
The  railroads  of  Iowa  are  2,683  miles 
long,  and  the  gross  earnings  for  the  past 
nine  years  over  $50,000,000. 

MOUTH  I. 

FUOM  KEOKUK  TO  MONA. 

Via  Burlington  & Keokuk  Bimsion  of  Chicago., 
Burlington  cfc  QuAn<i,y  ItaiVway ; Kji/rling- 
ton.,  Cedar  liapids  & Minnesota  Railway., 
and  Iowa  Bimision  of  Illinois  Cmtral  Rail- 
way. 

Stations. — Burlington  & Keokuk  Di- 
vision of  Chicago.,  Burlington  <Ss  Quincy 
Railway.  — Keokuk  (connects  with  rail- 
ways diverging) : Sandusky,  5 miles ; 
Nashville,  8;  Painter  Creek,  17;  Fort 
Madison,  24;  Weber,  32;  Burlington 
(connects  with  Burlington  & Missouri 
River  and  Burlington,  Cedar  Rapids  & 
Minnesota  Railways),  43. 

Stations. — Burlington.,  Cedar  Rapids 
cfi  Minnesota  Railway. — Burlington,  43 
miles  from  Keokuk;  Kossuth,  68;  Wa- 
pello, 73 ; Columbus  Junction  (connects 
with  Washington  Branch  of  Chicago, 
Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railwav),  84 ; 

204 


West  Liberty  (connects  with  Chicago, 
Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway),  105  ; 
Morse,  121  ; Cedar  Rapids  (connects 
with  Iowa  Division  Chicago  & North- 
western Railway,  and  with  Dubuque 
Southwestern  Railway),  143 ; Vinton, 
168;  Hayden,  189;  Waterloo  (connects 
with  Iowa  Division  of  Illinois  Central 
Railway),  199. 

Stations. — Iowa  Division  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway. — Waterloo,  199  miles 
from  Keokuk;  Janesville,  211;  Waver- 
ley,  217  ; Plainfield,  226  ; Nashua,  234  ; 
Charles  City  (connects  with  Iowa  & Da- 
kota Division  of  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul 
Railway),  245  ; Osage,  262 ; St.  Ansgar, 
271 ; Mona  (connects  with  Austin  & 
Mason  City  Branch  of  Iowa  Division 
Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Railway),  279. 

M^eolculc.  (Nec  page  82.) 

ISuriiiig’toii.  (43  miles).  {See  page 
79.) 

"ilTapello  (73  miles),  the  capital  of 
Louisa  County,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Iowa  River.,  is  a flourishing  town  of  about 
1,500  inhabitants. 

CoIii.iiil>as  (84  miles)  connects 
with  the  Washington  Branch  of  the  Chi- 
cago^ Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway. 

"West  Xiilberty  (105  miles)  con- 
nects with  the  Chicago.,  Rock  Island  dc 
Pacific  Railway.  {See  page  78.) 

Cellar  J^apidls  (143  miles).  {See 
page  73.) 

Viiatoa  (168  miles),  the  capital  of 
Benton  County,  is  a flourishing  village  of 
about  2,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Red  Ce- 
dar River.  The  State  Institution  for  the 
Blind  is  located  in  this  place. 

■^Vatei'loo  (199  miles),  the  capital 
of  Black  Hawk  County,  is  a place  of 
about  1,800  inhabitants,  on  the  Red  Ce- 
dar River.  It  connects  with  the  Iowa 
Division  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway. 

^►Vaverley  (217  miles),  the  capital 
of  Bremer  County,  is  a flourishing  village 
of  about  2,500  inhabitants,  on  the  Red 
Cedar  River. 

Oaarlcs  City  (246  miles),  the 
capital  of  Floyd  County,  is  a pretty  vil- 
lage on  the  Cedar  River,  surrounded  by 
a rich  country  of  rolling  prairie.  It  con- 
nects with  the  Iowa  do  Dakota  Division  of 
the  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Railway. 

Iflona  (279  miles),  on  the  Red  Cedar 
River,  connects  with  the  Austin  cf*  Mason 


Stations.] 


lOAVA. 


[Stations. 


City  Branch  of  the  Iowa  Division  of  the 
Milwaukee  d'  St.  Paul  Railway, 


MOUTE  II. 

DUBUQUE  TO  SIOUX  CITY. 

Via  loioa  Division  of  Illinois  Cmtral  Bail- 
way. 

Stations. — Dubuque : Julien,  10  miles ; 
Peosta,  15  ; Farley  (connects  with  Du- 
buque Southwestern  Railway),  23 ; 
Earlville,  87  ; Manchester,  47 ; Winthrop, 
61  ; Independence,  69;  Jesup,  78;  Ray- 
mond, 87;  Waterloo  (Branch  to  Mona 
connects),  93  ; Cedar  Falls  and  Mona 
Junction,  98 ; Cedar  Falis,  99  ; New  Hart- 
ford, 109  ; Aplington,  123  ; Ackley  (con- 
nects with  Central  Railway  of  Iowa),  132  ; 
Iowa  Falls,  143  ; Williams,  158  ; Webster 
City,  172;  Fort  Dodge  (connects  with 
Des  Moines  Valley  Railway),  192  ; Man- 
son,  210;  Marvin,  226;  Newell,  235; 
Storm  Lake,  245  ; Cherokee,  267 ; Mar- 
cus, 283 ; Le  Mars,  302  ; Sioux  City  (con- 
nects with  Sioux  City  Pacific  Railway), 
326. 

(See  page  161.) 

ff^arley  (23  miles)  connects  with  the 
Dubuque  Southwestern  Railway. 

MaBiclie.stei-  (47  miles)  is  a thriv- 
ing village  of  1,500  inhabitants,  on  the 
Maquoketa  River. 

Waterloo  (93  miles).  (See  page 
204.) 

CJed^ar  F'alls  (99  miles)  is  a flour- 
ishing manufacturing  town  of  about 
4,000  inhabitants,  on  Cedar  River. 

Aclcley  (132  miles)  connects  with 
the  Central  Railway  of  Iowa. 

ff'ort  l>od.g;e  (192  miles),  the  cap- 
ital of  W ebster  County,  is  a flourishing 
town  of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  on  the 
Des  Moines  River,  which  affords  good 
water-power,  and  is  here  about  250  feet 
wide.  The  Des  Moines  Valley  Railway 
connects  at  this  point. 

Clierolcee  (267  miles),  the  capital 
of  Cherokee  County,  is  on  the  Little 
Sioux  River. 

@ioux  City  (326  miles),  on  the 
Missouri  River,  connects  with  the  Sioux 
City  Pacific  Railway,  (See  page  178.) 


MOUTE  III. 

DUBUQUE  TO  CEDAR  RAPIDS. 

Via  Dubuque  Southwestern. 

Stations. — Dubuque : Farley,  23  miles ; 
Sand  Springs,  37 ; Anamosa,  54  ; Spring- 
ville,  65;  Cedar  Rapids  (connects  with 
Iowa  Division  of  Chicago  & Northwestern 
Railway  and  Burlington,  Cedar  Rapids  & 
Minnesota  Railway),  79. 

(See  page  161.) 

Ceilsir  (79  miles).  See 

page  73.) 

MOUTE  IV. 

DES  3I0IXES  TO  FORT  DODGE. 

Via  Des  3Ioines  Valley  Railway. 

Stations. — Des  Moines  (connects  with 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  & Pacific  Railway) : 
Valley  Junction,  8 miles  ; Dallas  Centre, 
21 ; Perry,  34  ; Grand  Junction  (connects 
with  Iowa  Division  of  Chicago  & North- 
western Railway),  50  ; Cowrie,  65  ; Sioux 
City  Junction,  72  ; Fort  Dodge  (connects 
with  Iowa  Division  of  Illinois  Central 
Railway),  78. 

l>e§(  MoiJies.  (See  page  78.) 

•ffiiMctioia  (50  miles).  See 

page  72.) 

@ioii.x  City  (72  miles).  (See  page 
178.) 

IJi'ort  l^oilge  (78  miles).  (See  page 
205.) 

MOUTE  V. 

WILTON  TO  ASHLAND. 

Via  Branch  of  Chicago.,  RocJc  Island  & Pacifo 
Railway. 

Stations.  — Wilton  (connects  with 
Maine  Line):  Muscatine,  12  miles;  Fre- 
donia,  31 ; Washington  (connects  with 
Stage  Lines  for  Sigourney  and  Oskaloo- 
sa),  49  ; Fairfield  (^connects  with  Bur- 
lington  k Missouri  River  Railway),  77 ; 
AsWand  (connects  with  Des  Moines  Val- 
ley Railway),  94. 

Wilton.  (See  page  78.) 

^WasIiiaigtoKL  (49  miles)  connects 
with  Sigourney  and  Oskaloosa  by  stage. 

(77  miles)  is  an  unim- 
portant village. 

A^I&laiid.  (94  miles).  (See  page  82.) 

205 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Austin. 


MOUTB  VI. 

VOUNCIL  BLUFFS  TO  SIOUX  CITY. 

Via  Siovoi  City  & Pacific  Railway. 

Stations. — Council  Bluffs  (connects 
with  all  diverging  railways):  Missouri 
Valley  Junction  (connects  with  Chi- 
cago & Northwestern  Railway),  21  miles ; 
California  Junction  (Fremont  & Sioux 
City  Divisions  diverge),  27  ; River  Sioux, 
44 ; Onawa,  59 ; Sloan,  76  ; Sioux  City 
(connects  with  Iowa  Division  of  Illinois 
Central  Railway),  96. 

Council  (See  page  74.) 

Missouri  Valley  JTimctiosi. 
(27  miles).  (See  page  74.) 

^ioux  City  (96  miles).  (See  page 

178.) 


BOUTE  VII. 

CALMAR  TO  ALGONA. 

Via  Iowa  & Dakota  Division  of  Milwaukee  & 
St.  Paul  Railway. 

Stations.  — Calmar  (connects  with 
Iowa  & Minnesota  Divisions) : Fort  At- 
kinson, 6 miles;  New  Hampton,  27; 
Charles  City  (connects  with  Iowa  Di- 
vision of  Illinois  Central  Railway),  47 ; 
Nora  Springs,  65  ; Mason  City  (connects 
v/ith  Central  Railway  of  Iowa),  76  ; Gar- 
ner, 95;  Algona,  126. 


Calmar 9 a village  of  about  1,000 
inhabitants,  connects  with  the  lovm  and 
Afinneaota  Divisions. 

Cliarles  City  (47  miles).  (Sec 
page  204.) 

Mason  City  (75  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Cerro  Gordo  County,  connects  with 
the  Central  Railway  of  Iowa. 

Alg’ona  (126  miles),  the  capital  of 
Kossuth  County,  is  on  the  Dcs  Moines 
River. 


BO  UTE  VIII. 

McGREGOR,  IOWA,  TO  A USTIX  MIXXF- 
SOTA. 

Via  Iowa  Minnesota  Divisions  of  Milwaukee 
& St.  Paul  Railwa/y. 

Stations. — McGregor  (connects  by  Fer- 
ry with  Prairie  du  Chien) : Postville,  26 
miles ; Ossian,  37 ; Calmar  (connects  with 
Iowa  and  Dakota  Division),  43  miles ; Con- 
over, 46 ; Cresco,  62  ; Lime  Springs,  73  ; 
Le  Roy,  86  ; Austin  (connects  with  Ma- 
son City  & Minnesota  Branch),  111. 
McCrreg'or.  (See  page  160.) 
Calmar  (43  miles.)  (See  page  206.) 
Austin,  Minn.  (Ill  miles),  the 
capital  of  Mower  County,  is  a village  of 
about  1,000  inhabitants,  pleasantly  sit- 
uated on  Red  Cedar  River. 


MICH 

Michigan  embraces  two  peninsulas, 
the  lower  or  southern  lying  between 
Lake  Michigan  on  the  west,  and  Lakes 
Huron,  St.  Clair,  and  Erie  on  the  east ; 
and  the  northern,  between  Lake  Supe- 
rior on  the  north,  and  Lakes  Michigan 
and  Huron  on  the  south.  The  northern 
peninsula  is  about  320  miles  long  and 
130  in  its  greatest  breadth,  and  the 
southern  238  miles  from  north  to  south, 
and  200  from  east  to  west.  Unitedly, 
they  embrace  thirty-five  and  a half  mil- 
lions of  acres.  The  unique  character  of 
the  scenery  of  the  upper  peninsula  of 
Michigan,  and  the  present  easy  means 
of  access,  promise,  in  the  course  of  a 
few  years,  to  make  this  region  one  of  the 
200 


IGAH. 

most  popular  summer  resorts  in  the 
Union.  Excepting  in  portions  of  its 
southern  boundary,  the  State  is  every- 
where surrounded  by  the  waters  of  the 
Great  Lakes,  insomuch  that  it  has  a 
coast  of  nearly  1,100  miles.  Of  this  im- 
mense lake-coast,  350  miles  belong  to 
Lake  Superior,  as  much  more  to  Lake 
Michigan,  300  to  liake  Huron,  40  to  Lake 
Erie,  and  30  to  St.  Clair.  Besides  these 
grand  waters,  which  encompass  the  State 
about  like  a girdle,  there  are  many  beau- 
tiful ponds  scattered  over  the  interior, 
and  bearing  thither  the  picturesque 
beauty  of  the  shores.  The  southern 
peninsula  is  more  interesting  in  an  agri- 
cultural than  in  a pictorial  point  of  view. 


Michigan.] 


MICHIGAN. 


It  is  in  surface  notably  unvaried — a vast 
plain,  undulating  indeed,  but  not  broken 
by  any  elevations  worthy  of  mention.  It 
has,  however,  peculiar  features  which 
will  interest  the  traveller,  in  its  prairie- 
lands,  and  that  special  characteristic  of 
the  Western  landscape — the  Oak  Open- 
ings— a species  of  natural  park  meagrely 
covered  with  trees.  The  shores,  how- 
ever, even  of  this  part  of  Michigan,  are 
often  picturesquely  varied,  with  steep 
banks  and  bluffs,  and  shifting  sand-hills, 
reaching,  sometimes,  a height  of  200  feet 
or  more.  The  romantic  portion  of  the 
“ Lake  State  ” is  in  the  upper  peninsula, 
which  is  rich  in  all  the  features  of  rugged, 
rocky  coast,  of  the  most  fantastic  and 
striking  character,  in  beautiful  streams, 
rapids,  and  cascades. 

Micfiaig’am,  the  largest  of 
the  great  lakes  that  is  wholly  included 
within  the  United  States,  is  340  miles  in 
length,  from  Michigan,  Indiana,  to  the 
Strait  of  Mackinaw,  and  averages  about 
70  miles  in  breadth.  Its  surface  is  about 
600  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ; the 
depth  is  said  to  be  about  900  feet,  and 
its  area  is  estimated  to  contain  20,000 
square  miles.  The  shore  of  the  lake  is 
generally  low,  being  formed  of  limestone, 
rock,  clay,  or  sand.  The  writers  are 
gradually  receding  from  the  Michigan 
shore,  and  encroaching  upon  that  of 
Wisconsin.  Except  a few  near  the  north- 
easterly extremity  of  the  lake,  there  are 
no  islands  in  it.  During  the  summer  and 
early  autumn  months  the  waters  are  com- 
paratively calm  and  afford  safe  naviga- 
tion ; but  late  in  the  year,  and  during 
the  winter  and  early  spring,  travel  on 
this  and  the  other  great  lakes  is  attend- 
ed with  much  risk.  Green  Bay^  which 
lies  principally  within  the  limits  of  Wis- 
consin, is  the  only  one  of  considerable 
size  on  Lake  Michigan.  (>See  page  219.) 
The  many  remarkable  objects  of  interest 
to  the  tourist  in  the  lake-region  have 
been  fully  described  in  Lake  and  Kiver 
Tour  No.  L,  and  in  other  parts  of  the 
book. 

The  rivers  of  the  State  are  for  the  most 
part  small  streams,  but  many  of  them, 
particularly  those  in  the  mountain  dis- 
tricts of  the  north,  are  replete  with  pleas- 
ant subjects  for  the  pencil  of  the  artist. 

Michigan  is  well  wooded.  The  north- 


5gak. 


ern  peninsula  furnishes  white  pine,  spruq 
hemlock,  birch,  oak,  aspen,  maple, 
and  elm ; in  the  south  are  found  tbc'^ 
oak-openings  already  referred  to ; the 
northwest  of  the  lower  peninsula  is  well 
timbered,  the  varieties  embracing  those 
above  enumerated  and  several  others ; 
indeed,  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  timber 
is  more  or  less  abundant.  The  lumber- 
trade  is  an  important  branch  of  the 
industry  of  Michigan,  and  is  annually 
increasing  in  extent.  The  reports  of  the 
lumber  business  of  the  Saginaw  Yalley 
and  Lake  Huron  shore,  for  1870,  show 
that  the  whole  amount  of  lumber  cut 
in  the  two  districts  during  the  year, 
amounted  to  704,000,000  feet.  More 
than  4,000  men  were  engaged  in  the 
mills,  which  number  118.  Seventy  gang 
saws  and  120  circular  saws  were  em- 
ployed, besides  70  single  saws.  The 
quantity  of  small  lumber  manufactured 
was  also  very  great.  The  following  are 
some  of  the  larger  items : Shingles, 

273.000. 000;  staves,  11,000,000;  lath, 

61.000. 000;  pickets,  900,000. 

The  mineral  resources  of  the  State,  al- 
though imperfectly  developed,  are  doubt- 
less very  great.  In  the  northern  penin- 
sula, the  copper-mines,  occupying  a belt 
of  1 20  miles  in  length  by  2 to  6 in  width, 
are  probably  the  richest  in  the  world. 
Iron  of  a very  superior  quality,  and  in 
almost  inexhaustible  quantities,  is  met 
with  in  various  parts  of  Michigan.  There 
is  one  belt  from  6 to  25  miles  wide,  ex- 
tending westward  for  150  miles  into 
Wisconsin.  Among  other  minerals,  there 
are  lead,  gypsum,  salt,  limestone,  marl, 
and  coal.  Silver  is  found  in  connection 
with  copper,  yielding,  sometimes,  from 
25  to  50  per  cent,  of  the  precious  metal. 
Ore  from  a vein  of  silver  lately  opened 
on  the  Amethyst,  on  the  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  has  been  assayed,  and  yielded 
at  the  enormous  rate  of  $5,293  to  the 
ton.  Salt  is  obtained  in  great  abundance 
in  the  Saginaw  Yalley,  where  646,000  bar- 
rels of  that  article  were  produced  in  1870. 

The  Magnetic  Spring  recently  opened 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  is 
a remarkable  discovery,  and  adds  to  the 
list  of  mineral  waters  a new  kind,  said 
to  be  more  potent  than  those  of  Yichy, 
Kissingen,  Congress,  Katalysine  or  Wel- 
den.  It  was  reached  accidentally,  by 
207 


Michigan.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Holly. 


men  employed  in  drilling  a salt- wall.  At 
the  depth  of  259  feet,  they  came  to  wa- 
ter of  extraordinary  properties,  holding 
in  solution  400  grains  of  common  salt  to 
the  gallon  of  water,  besides  the  bicar- 
bonates of  soda,  lime,  iron,  manganese, 
and  magnesium,  the  chlorides  of  potas- 
sium, calcium,  and  magnesium,  the  bro- 
mide of  magnesium,  and  traces  of  silica, 
alumina,  and  ammonia.  Its  magnetic 
powers  are  so  strong  that  a pocket-knife 
left  beneath  its  current  for  ten  minutes 
will  be  magnetized  to  pick  up  tacks, 
while  its  buoyancy,  when  heated  to  90° 
Fahrenheit,  is  very  remarkable,  floating 
the  bather  readily.  Its  medical  quali- 
ties are  represented  as  being  of  a very 
remarkable  kind.  The  place  where  the 
spring  was  found  is  a lumber-depot, 
which,  with  the  usual  rapid  growth  of 
Western  villages  numbered  in  May,  1871, 
nearly  2,000  inhabitants,  with  five  church- 
es, an  academy,  and  an  agricultural  hall. 
One  of  the  peculiarities  of  Spring  Lake 
City  is  that  acres  of  its  area  are  built 
out  of  sawdust,  streets  graded  from  two 
to  four  feet  deep  with  this  material,  and 
the  chief  hotel  is  an  old  saw-mill  trans- 
formed, with  bath-rooms,  and  nearly  every 
modern  appurtenance. 

The  population  of  Michigan  in  1860 
was  749,113.  The  census  returns  for 
1870  foot  up  as  follows:  Number  of 
dwellings  in  the  State,  235,687 ; number 
of  families,  234,725  ; number  of  voters, 
268,756 ; number  of  inhabitants,  1,184,- 
638.  The  total  valuation  of  real  estate 
and  personal  property  is  given  as  $292,- 
908,809,  against  $163,553,005  in  1860. 

The  first  settlements  in  the  State  were 
made  at  Detroit  and  Mackinaw,  toward 
the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Af- 
ter England  had  dispossessed  the  French, 
there  arose  among  the  Indian  tribes  the 
famous  chieftain  Pontiac,  who  availed 
himself  of  the  opportunity  afforded  by 
the  outburst  of  the  Revolution,  to  at- 
tempt the  entire  expulsion  of  the  white 
invaders  of  his  ancestral  lands.  He 
planned  a general  attack  upon  all  the 
English  forts  on  the  lakes,  massacred  the 
garrison  at  Mackinaw,  and  laid  siege, 
for  some  months,  to  Detroit.  In  1805, 
Michigan,  which,  prior  to  that  date, 
formed  part  of  the  Northwest  Territory, 
was  formed  into  a separate  Territory. 

208 


From  its  contiguity  to  Canada,  Michi- 
gan was  called  early  into  the  field  in  the 
War  of  1812.  Detroit  was  surrendered 
to  the  enemy  by  General  Hull,  August 
15th,  the  fort  at  Mackinaw  having  al- 
ready been  captured.  A number  of 
American  prisoners  of  war  were  butch- 
ered by  the  Indians  at  Frenchtown  on 
January  22,  1813.  The  State  suffered 
at  this  period  many  trials,  until  General 
Harrison  at  length  drove  the  British  into 
Canada,  carrying  the  war  into  that  coun- 
try. Detroit  was  not  surrendered  to  the 
United  States  until  1796.  Michigan 
came  into  the  Union  as  an  independent 
State  in  the  year  1837,  and  has  since 
rapidly  advanced  in  population,  wealth, 
and  production. 

M O UTE  I. 

DETROIT  TO  GRAND  HAVEN 
Via  Detroit  MilwauTcee  Railway. 

Stations. — Detroit  (connects  with  all 
diverging  railways  and  steamboat  lines) : 
Royal  Oak,  13  miles  ; Pontiac,  26 ; Davis- 
burgh,  41 ; Holly  (connects  with  Flint  & 
Pere  Marquette  Railway),  47 ; Fenton,  50 ; 
Owosso  (connects  with  Jackson,  Lansing 
& Saginaw  Railway),  78  ; Ovid,  88  ; St. 
John’s,  98;  Muir,  117;  Ionia  (connects 
with  Ionia  & Lansing  Railway),  124; 
Grand  Rapids  (connects  with  Grand  Rap- 
ids & Indiana,  Grand  River  Valley,  and 
Kalamazoo  Division  of  Michigan  Southern 
Railways),  157  ; Nunica,  179 ; Grand  Ha- 
ven (connects  with  steamers  for  Milwau- 
kee and  with  coasting  steamers),  189. 

l>etroit.  {See  page  3.) 

Oal£  (13  miles)  is  a thriv- 
ing village. 

Poi&tiac  (26  miles),  the  capital  of 
Oakland  County,  is  a flourishing  city  of 
about  5,000  inhabitants,  on  Clinton  River. 
It  is  a place  of  active  business,  and  one 
of  the  principal  wool-markets  in  the 
State.  The  Orchard  Lake  Gravel  Road 
has  been  completed  from  Pontiac  beyond 
Orchard  Lake,  making  a fine  drive. 

Holly  (47  miles)  is  the  southern  ter- 
minus of  Flint  <Sc  Fh'e  Marquette  Fail- 
way. 

Owosso,  or  Owasso  (78  miles),  is 
built  on  both  sides  of  the  Shiawassee 
River,  which  affords  a never-failing  water- 


Ionia.] 


MICHIGAN. 


[Stations. 


power,  giving  movement  to  several  grist, 
saw,  planing  and  other  mills.  It  is  the 
most  important  station  on  the  railroad  be- 
tween Detroit  and  Grand  Rapids.  It  con- 
nects with  the  Jackson^  Lansing  & Saginaw 
Railway^  whose  machine-shops  are  located 
at  this  point.  Population  in  1810,  2,065. 

Sosiisi  (124  miles),  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  the  same  name,  is  on  Grand 
River,  about  90  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  river  is  navigable  as  high  as  the  vil- 
lage in  all  stages  of  water,  and  steamers 
ply  regularly  between  Ionia  and  the  city 
of  Grand  Rapids.  The  Ionia  & Lansing 
Railway  connects  here.  Population,  about 
2,500. 

Mapids  (157  miles),  the 
capital  of  Kent  County,  is  picturesquely 
situated,  and  handsomely  built  on  both 
banks  of  the  Grand  River,  by  the  rapids. 
It  is  an  active  manufacturing  place,  hav- 
ing a population  of  about  5,000.  Large 
steamboats  run  daily  between  this  place 
and  Grand  Haven,  where  they  connect 
with  the  lake  steamers.  Salt  and  gyp- 
sum are  found  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
there  is  abundance  of  limestone,  pine-lum- 
ber, and  other  building-materials.  Grand 
Rapids  connects  with  the  Grand  Rapids 
& Indiana  and  Grand  River  Valley  Rail- 
ways^ and  the  Kalamazoo  Division  of  the 
Michigan  Southern  Railway. 

Maveaa  (189  miles),  the 
capital  of  Ottawa  County,  is  situated  on 
the  southern  bank  of  Grand  River,  at  its 
entrance  into  Lake  Michigan.  The  river 
here  is  350  yards  wide,  from  15  to  30  feet 
deep,  forming  a splendid  harbor — the  best 
on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  lake — having 
accommodation  for  500  vessels.  Grand 
Haven  connects  by  rail  with  Muskegon, 
with  steamers  for  Milwaukee,  and  with 
coasting  steamers. 


nOTITE  II. 

DETROIT  TO  ADRIAK. 

Via  Detroit  Division  of  Lake  Shore  & Michi- 
gan Southern  Railway. 

Stations. — Detroit  (connects  with  all 
diverging  railways  and  steamboat  lines) : 
Wyandotte,  17  miles;  Trenton,  20; 
Rrownstown,  26 ; Monroe  (branch  to  To- 
ledo diverges),  40  ; Deerfield,  60  ; Adrian 
(junction  with  main  line),  63. 


{See  page  3.) 

MoMi-oe  (40  miles),  the  capital  of 
Monroe  County,  is  a flourishing  place,  be- 
ing the  principal  market  for  the  wheat 
produced  in  several  adjoining  counties, 
and  having  extensive  manufactories  of 
wool,  flour,  lumber,  and  leather.  It  was 
settled  by  the  French  about  1776,  but 
the  present  town  has  been  mostly  built 
since  1835.  Monroe  contains  many  hand- 
some buildings  ; its  court-house,  built  of 
hewn  stone,  cost  $35,000.  The  city  is 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Raisin  River, 
two  miles  from  its  entrance  into  Lake  Erie, 
with  which  it  connects  by  a ship-canal. 
Population  in  1870,  5,086. 

Aelrlaia  (63  miles).  {See  page  20.) 


MOUTE  III. 

DETROIT  TO  PORT  IIUROK. 

Via  Detroit  Division  Grand  Trunk  Railway 
of  Canada. 

Stations. — Detroit  (connects  with  all 
diverging  railways  and  with  lake  and  riv- 
er steamers) : Mount  Clemens,  25  miles  ; 
Ridgeway  (connects  with  Michigan  Air 
Line  Railway),  41 ; Port  Huron  (conneets, 
by  ferry  to  Sarnia,  with  Grand  Trunk  and 
Great  Western  Railways  of  Canada),  62. 
{See  page  3.) 

Moiiat  Clemens  (25  miles)  is  sit- 
uated on  the  left  bank  of  Clinton  River,  six 
miles  from  its  entrance  into  Lake  St.  Clair, 
at  the  head  of  steam  navigation.  It  is 
quite  a busy  little  place,  among  other  in- 
dustries engaging  in  ship-building.  Steam- 
boats ply  daily  between  Mount  Clemens 
and  Detroit. 

Mid.g'eway  (41  miles ) connects 
with  the  Alichigan  Air  Line  Railway. 

Mnron  (62  miles).  {See 

page  139.) 

MOUTE  IV. 

DETROIT  TO  BAY  CITY. 

Via  Detroit  & Milwaukee  and  Flint  S Pert 
Marquette  Railways. 

Stations. — Detroit  & Alilwaukee  Rail- 
way.— Detroit  (conneets  with  all  diverging 
railway  and  steamboat  lines) : Royal  Oak, 
13  miles;  Pontiac,  26 ; Davisburg,  41; 

209 


Flint.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Greenville. 


Holly  (connects  with  Flint  & Pere  Mar- 
quette Railway),  4Y. 

Stations.  — Flint  Fere  Marquette 
Railway,— 47  miles  from  Detroit ; 
Grand  Blanc,  56  ; Flint,  64  ; Mount  Mor- 
ris, 70 ; Pine  Run,  75  ; Birch  Run,  81 ; 
Bridgeport,  95  ; East  Saginaw  (connects 
with  Northern  and  Western  Divisions), 
98;  Portsmouth,  107  ; Bay  City  (connects 
with  steamers  for  ports  on  Lake  Huron), 
111. 

The  route  from  Detroit  to  Holly  has 
been  described  under  Route  I.  of  Michi- 
gan. 

(64  miles),  the  capital  of  Gen- 
esee County,  is  prettily  situated  on  Flint 
River,  wdiich  furnishes  an  extensive  w^a- 
ter-power,  and  in  the  midst  of  a fertile 
country.  The  Michigan  Asylum  for  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb  and  Blind,  at  this  place, 
is  a handsome  building.  Population  in 
1870,  5,395. 

East  Saginaw  (98  miles),  a town 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Saginaw  River, 
has  several  steam  saw-mills. 

E?oi*tsmontli(107  miles)  saws  and 
exports  large  quantities  of  pine-lumber. 

SSay  City  (111  miles),  the  capital 
of  Bay  County,  is  a very  prosperous  town 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Saginaw  River, 
doing  a large  pine-lumber  shipping-trade. 
Population  in  1860,  1,583  ; in  1870,  6,984. 

.ROUTE  V. 

WENOFA,  3fICK,  TO  FORT  WAYFE, 
INDIANA. 

Via  Jaehson.,  Lemsing  & Saginaw,^  and  Fort 
Wayne,  Jackson  c£  Saginaw  Railways. 

Stations. — Jackson,  Lansing  <b  Sagi- 
naw Railway. — Wenonai  East  Saginaw, 
13  miles;  Saginaw  City  (connects  with 
Flint  & Pere  Marquette  Railway),  15;  St. 
Charles,  29 ; Oakley,  40 ; Owasso  (con- 
nects with  Detroit  & Milwaukee  Rail- 
way), 51 ; Laingsburg,  63  ; Lansing  (con- 
nects with  Ionia  & Lansing  and  Penin- 
sular Railways),  79;  Mason,  91;  Rives 
Junction  (connects  with  Grand  River 
Valley  Railw^ay),  105  ; Jackson  (connects 
with  diverging  railways),  116. 

Stations.  — Fort  Wayne,  Jackson  & 
Saginaw  Railway. — Jackson,  116  miles 
fromWenona;  Hanover,  130;  Jonesville 
(connects  wdtb  Adrian  Division  Lake 

210 


Shore  & Michigan  Southern  Railway), 
141;  Reading,  152,  Fremont,  166;  An- 
gola, 174;  Waterloo  (connects  with  Main 
Line  Lake  Shore  k Michigan  Southern 
Railway),  188  ; Stiner’s,  204  ; Fort 
Wayne  (connects  with  diverging  rail- 
ways), 216. 

East  Saginaw  (13  miles).  {See 
page  210.) 

fj^aginaw  City  (15  miles),  the 
capital  of  Saginaw  County,  does  a large 
export  business  in  salt  and  lumber.  It 
is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  22  miles  from  its  mouth. 
The  town  is  picturesquely  situated,  com- 
manding a fine  view  of  the  stream.  The 
Saginaw  River  is  navigable  for  vessels 
drawing  ten  feet  of  water.  Its  branches 
unite  four  miles  above  the  town,  con- 
verging toward  it  from  all  the  cardinal 
points.  Population  in  1870,  11,350. 

Owoss®  (51  miles).  {See  page  208.) 

Jackson  (116  miles).  {See  page 
5.) 

Jonesville  (141  miles).  {See  page 

21.) 

Waterloo  (188  miles)  is  a village 
on  Portage  Creek,  of  about  2,000  in- 
habitants. 

Eort  Wayne  (216  miles).  {See 
page  24.) 

MOUTE  VI. 

LANSING  TO  GREENVILLE. 

Via  Ionia  <&  Lansing  Railway. 

Stations.  — Lansing  (connects  Jack- 
son,  Lansing  & Saginaw,  Fort  Wayne, 
Jackson  & Saginaw,  and  Peninsular  Rail- 
ways) : North  Lansing,  1 mile ; Delta, 
8;  Daniells,  10;  Grand  Ledge,  13 ; Eagle, 
17;  Danby,  21;  Portland,  24;  Steb- 
binsville,  28;  Lyons,  32;  Ionia  (con- 
nects with  Detroit  & Milwaukee  Rail- 
way), 37 ; Orleans,  46  ; Greenville,  57. 

Eansing,  the  capital  of  Michigan, 
is  on  Grand  River,  which  affords  good 
water-power  to  several  flouring-mills  and 
factories.  The  State-house,  which  is  50 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  is  a large 
and  handsome  building.  Population  about 
6,000.  {See  also  Stations  above.) 

Sonia.  (37  miles.)  {See  page  209.) 


Stations.] 


MICHIGAN. 


[Allegan. 


MO  UTE  VII. 

LAN’Sma  TO  BATTLE  CREEK  AND 
CLIMAX, 

Via  Peivinmlar  RaUwaij, 

Stations. — Lansing  (connects  with  di- 
verging railways) ; Charlotte  (connects 
with  Grand  River  Valley  Division  of 
Michigan  Central  Railway),  19  miles ; 
Bellevue,  32 ; Battle  Creek  (connects  with 
Main  Line  of  Michigan  Central  Railway, 
45  ; Climax,  55. 

{See  page  210.) 

Claarlot^e  (19  miles),  the  capital 
of  Eaton  County,  connects  with  the 
Grand  River  Valley  Division  of  Alichiyan 
Central  Raihoay. 

ISattle  CreeSi  (45  miles).  {See  page 

6.) 

Cliiaax  (55  miles)  is  a township  of 
Kalamazoo  County. 

MO  UTE  VIII. 

JACKSON  TO  WILITEIIALL. 

Via  Grand  Ri/ver  Valley  Division  of  Mielii- 
gan  Central  Railway. 

Stations.  — Jackson  (connects  with 
railways  diverging) : Rives  Junction 

(connects  with  Jackson,  Lansing  & Sagi- 
naw Railway),  11  miles;  Onondaga,  18; 
Eaton  Rapids,  24;  Charlotte  (connects 
with  Peninsular  Railway),  35  ; Vermont- 
ville,  46  ; Nashville,  50 ; Hastings,  62 ; 
Middleville,  V4;  Gaines,  85;  Grand  Rap- 
ids (connects  with  Detroit  & Milwaukee, 
Grand  Rapids  & Indiana,  and  Kalamazoo 
Division  of  Lake  Shore  & Michigan 
Southern  Railways),  94;  Nunica,  117; 
Muskegon,  133;  Whitehall,  149. 

•FaclcsoBi.  {See  page  5.) 

Cliarlotte  (35  miles).  {Sec  page 

211.) 

(74  miles)  is  a village 
on  Thornapple  River. 

Crrand.  (94  miles).  {See 

page  209.) 

Maskegom  (133  m‘les),the  capital 
of  Muskegon  County,  is  on  a river  of  the 
same  name,  five  miles  from  Lake  Michi- 
gan. Population  in  1870,  6,092. 

Wlaiteliall  (149  miles)  is  the  pres- 
ent terminus  of  the  road. 


MOUTE  IX. 

PARIS,  MICK,  TO  FORT  WAYNE,  IND. 
Via  Gra/nd  Rapids  & Indiana  Railway. 
Stations. — Paris : Big  Rapids,  4 miles ; 
Morley,  20;  Howard  City,  27;  Cedar 
Springs,  40 ; Rockford,  47 ; Grand  Rap- 
ids (connects  with  Detroit  & Milwaukee 
Railway,  Grand  River  Valley  Division  of 
Michigan  Central,  and  Kalamazoo  Divis- 
ion of  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern 
Railway),  60 ; Bradley,  85 ; Kalamazoo 
(connects  with  Main  Line  and  South 
Haven  Division  of  Michigan  Central  Rail- 
way), 109;  Mendon,  130;  Sturgis,  145; 
Kendallville,  174;  Fort  Wayne  (con- 
nects with  railways  diverging),  202. 

IParis  is  a village  four  miles  above 
Big  Rapids,  which  is  on  the  Muskegon 
River. 

ISapid-S  (60  miles).  {See 

page  209.) 

l^alamazoo  (109  miles).  {See  page 

6.) 

Mendallville  (174  miles).  {See 
page  22.) 

Fort  Wayne  (202  miles).  {See 
page  24.) 

MOUTE  X. 

WHITE  PIGEON  TO  GRAND  RAPIDS. 

Via  Kalamazoo  Division  of  Lake  Shore 
Michigan  Southern  Railway. 

Stations.  — White  Pigeon  (connects 
with  Main  Line) : Constantine,  4 miles ; 
Three  Rivers,  14 ; Schoolcraft,  24 ; Kala- 
mazoo (connects  with  Main  Line  and 
South  Haven  Division  of  Michigan  South- 
ern Railway,  and  with  Grand  Rapids  & 
Indiana  Railway),  38 ; Silver  Creek,  47 ; 
Allegan  (connects  with  Michigan  Lake 
Shore  Railway),  63;  Dorr,  78;  Grand 
Rapids  (connects  with  railways  diverg- 
ing), 96. 

WMte  Figfeoii.  {See  page  21.) 
l£a.la,mazoo  (38  miles).  {See  page 

Allegan  (63  miles),  the  capital  of 
the  county  of  the  same  name,  is  situated 
on  both  sides  of  the  Kalamazoo  River, 
at  the  head  of  navigation  for  small  boats. 
It  has  an  active  trade,  lumber  being  the 
chief  article  of  export.  The  river  is 
crossed  by  a bridge  at  this  point. 

211 


Stations.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Wisconsin 


^rsQ;iid.  (98  miles).  {See 

page  209.) 

R O UTE  XI. 

ALLEGAN  TO  ALUSKEGON. 

Via  Afichigan  Lake  Shore  Bailway. 
Stations.  — Allegan  (connects  with 
Kalamazoo  Division  of  Lake  Shore  & 
Michigan  Southern  Railway)  : Rabbit 
River,  13  miles;  Holland,  23;  Grand 
Haven  (connects  with  Detroit  & Mil- 
waukee Railway),  43  ; Muskegon,  57. 
Alleg’aiic  {See  page  211.) 

Haven  (43  miles).  {See 

page  209.) 

Mnisliieg’oai  (57  miles).  {See  page 

211.) 

M O UTE  XII. 

KALAAIAZOO  TO  SOUTH  HAVEN. 

Via  South  Haven  Branch  of  Alichigan  Central 
Railway. 

Stations. — Kalamazoo  (connects  with 
Main  Line  and  with  Kalamazoo  Division 
of  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern 
Railway,  and  Grand  Rapids  & Indiana 
Railway):  Kendall’s,  15  miles;  Bloom- 
ingdale,  23  ; Geneva,  32  ; South  Haven. 
Malainazoo.  {See  page  6.) 
Sontli  Haven,  is  a village  on 
Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  Black 
River. 

R O UTE  XIII. 

TOLEDO,  OHIO,  TO  JACKSON,  MICH. 

Via  Adrian  and  Jackson  Divisions  of  Lake 
Shore  db  Alichigan  Southern  Railway. 

Stations. — Toledo  (connects  with  di- 
verging railways) : Sylvania,  10  miles  ; 
Palmyra,  27 ; Adrian  (connects  with  De- 
troit and  Jackson  Divisions),  33 ; Te- 


cumseh,  46  ; Norvell,  65 ; Jackson  (con- 
nects with  diverging  railways),  79. 

The  route  from  Toledo  to  Adrian  has 
been  described  in  Through  Route,  No. 
II. 

•HaclisoM  (79  miles).  {See  page 
5.) 

R O UTE  XI  V. 

DETROIT  TO  ROMEO. 

Via  Detroit  Division  of  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way of  Canada,  arid  Michigan  Air  Line 
Railway. 

Stations. — Detroit : Mount  Clemens, 
25  miles  ; Ridgeway,  41  ; Armada,  49  ; 
Romeo,  57. 

The  route  from  Detroit  to  Ridgeway 
is  described  in  Route  III.  of  Michigan. 

Itomeo  (57  miles)  is  a thriving  vil- 
lage, of  about  2,000  inhabitants. 


R O UTE  XV. 

NEW  BUFFALO  TO  BREEDSVILLE. 

Via  Chicago  <&  Alichigan  Lake  Shore  Rail 
way. 

Stations. — New  Buffalo:  Morris,  16 
miles ; St.  Joseph,  27 ; Breedsville  (con- 
nects with  South  Haven  Division  of  Michi- 
gan Central  Railway),  57. 

Nevr  Huffklo.  {See  page  6.) 

St.  Josepli  (27  miles)  connects 
with  the  South  Haven  Hivision  of  Michi- 
gan Central  Railway,  It  is  on  Lake 
Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Joseph’s 
River,  which  is  crossed  at  this  place  by 
a bridge  costing  $15,000.  St.  Joseph 
has  an  active  trade  in  lumber  and  fruit, 
of  which  it  ships  large  quantities  to 
Chicago. 

Breedsville  (57  miles)  is  a vil- 
lage in  Van  Buren  County. 


wiscoisTsiisr. 


Wisconsin  was  formed  into  a Territory 
in  1836,  and  came  into  the  Union  as  late 
as  1848,  though  the  country  was  visited, 
as  was  all  the  wilderness  of  which  it  was 
then  a part,  by  the  French  missionaries 
two  centuries  ago.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  Minnesota,  part  of  Michigan, 
212 


and  Lake  Superior ; on  the  east  by  Lake 
Michigan ; on  the  south  by  Illinois,  and 
on  the  west  by  Iowa  and  Minnesota.  It 
is  285  miles  long  and  250  broad,  and  em- 
braces an  area  of  53,924  square  miles, 
or  thirty-four  and  a half  millions  of  acres. 

The  topographical  aspect  of  Wisconsin 


Wisconsin.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[Wisconsin  Riter. 


is  very  similar  to  that  of  other  portions 
of  the  Northwest  section  of  the  Union, 
presenting,  for  the  most  part,  grand 
stretches  of  elevated  prairie-land,  some- 
times 1,000  feet  higher  than  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Though  there  are  no  mountains 
in  this  State,  there  are  the  characteristic 
plateau  ridges  of  the  latitude,  formed  by 
depressions,  which  drain  the  waters,  and 
afford  beds  for  the  rivers  and  lakes.  The 
descent  of  the  land  toward  Lake  Superior 
is  very  sudden,  and  the  streams  are  full 
of  falls  and  rapids. 

The  Blue  Mounds  are  in  Dane  County. 
The  most  elevated  rises  nearly  1,200 
feet  above  the  waters  of  the  Wisconsin 
River. 

The  forest  scenery,  and  the  ever-wel- 
come  oak  openings — the  oases  of  the 
prairie — will  be  among  the  gratifications 
of  the  Nature-loving  tourist  in  Wisconsin. 
The  hunter  may  indulge  his  passion  for 
the  chase  at  will,  whether  he  aspire  to 
the  wild-game  of  the  wilderness,  or  to  the 
gentler  sports  by  the  brook-side. 

Wisconsin  is  rich  in  minerals^  espe- 
cially in  that  of  iron,  which  in  the  Lake 
Superior  region  and  in  other  parts  is 
found  in  great  abundance,  and  of  the 
richest  kind.  Lead  of  excellent  quality, 
intermingled  with  copper  and  zinc,  and 
some  silver,  is  very  plentiful  in  the  south- 
west part  of  the  State.  Copper,  magnet- 
ic iron,  iron  pyrites,  and  plumbago,  exist 
in  large  quantities.  On  the  Michigamig 
and  Menomonee  Rivers  beautiful  marbles 
are  found.  The  prevailing  color  is  a 
light  pink,  traversed  by  seams  of  deep 
red  ; but  some  are  blue  and  dark-colored, 
handsomely  veined,  these  latter  being 
susceptible  of  a very  fine  polish. 

There  is  no  lack  of  timber  in  the  State. 
On  the  Upper  Wisconsin,  the  Wolf  River, 
and  the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi, 
north  of  the  Wisconsin,  there  are  dense 
forests  of  pine.  The  other  forest-trees 
are  spruce,  tamarac,  cedar,  various  kinds 
of  oak,  birch,  aspen,  basswood,  hickory, 
elm,  ash,  hemlock,  poplar,  sycamore,  and 
sugar-maple  We  have  already  spoken  of 
the  oak  openings. 

The  climate  is  rather  severe  in  winter, 
but  it  is  generally  salubrious  and  bra- 
cing. 

The  State  is  divided  into  58  counties, 
and  contained  a population  in  1860  of 


775,881,  of  whom  1,171  were  negroes,  and 
1,014  Indians.  The  entire  population  of 
the  State  is  given  in  the  census  of  1870 
as  1,055,167.  The  real  estate  and  per- 
sonal property  returns  for  1870  are 
$333,447,566,  against  $156,226,169  in 
1860.  The  increase  in  the  manufacturing 
industry  of  Wisconsin  during  the  last  de- 
cade is  very  great,  the  number  of  estab- 
lishments in  1860  being  3,063,  with  15,414 
hands  employed,  and  products  valued  at 
$27,849,467 ; while  in  1870  there  are  re- 
ported 7,136  establishments,  with  30,055 
hands  and  products  valued  at  $85,625,966, 
showing  an  increase  in  establishments  of 
4,072,  of  hands  of  23,641,  and  of  prod- 
ucts of  $57,775,499. 

LAKES,  EIYEES,  ETC. 

The  waters  of  Lahe  Superior  and  Lahe 
Michigan  wash  the  northern  and  eastern 
boundaries  of  Wisconsin,  and  numberless 
lesser  waters  are  scattered  through  the 
interior,  and  more  abundantly  over  the 
northwestern  counties.  The  shores  of 
these  lakes  abound  in  rich  forest  growth 
and  in  rocky  precipice,  affording  numer- 
ous picturesque  views.  The  waters  are 
clear,  and  full  of  delicious  fish. 

‘Wiiane'bag'O,  the  largest 
of  the  interior  waters  of  Wisconsin,  lies 
southeast  of  the  middle  of  the  State.  Its 
length  is  about  28  miles,  with  a width 
of  10  miles.  The  Fox  or  Neenah  River 
unites  with  Green  Bay,  an  arm  of  Lake 
Michigan.  A .singular  rocky  wall  which 
might,  in  its  regular  formation,  easily  be 
supposed  the  work  of  art,  instead  of  Na- 
ture, follows  the  eastern  shore  of  Win- 
nebago Lake  for  15  miles.  This  wall  rises 
through  all  its  extent  about  five  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  sinks 
in  places  hundreds  of  feet  below.  Steam- 
boats navigate  the  lake.  {See  Oshkosh, 
page  219.) 

'Tlae  Mississippi  Miver  forms 
much  of  the  western  boundary  of  Wis- 
consin, separating  it  from  Iowa  and  Min- 
nesota, with  which  States  it  thus  shares 
the  charming  scenery  of  this  portion  of 
the  great  river,  {^e  Lake  and  River 
Tour  No.  II.) 

TTIae  Wisconsin  ISiver,  the 
largest  stream  in  the  State,  rises  in  a 
small  lake  called  Yieux  Desert,  on  the 
northern  boundary,  and  flows  south- 
213 


St.  Louis  River.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Racine. 


westerly  600  miles  to  the  Mississippi  at 
Prairie  du  Chien.  Shifting  sand-bars  ob- 
struct the  navigation  very  much,  yet 
steamboats  ascend  as  high  as  Portage 
(Jity,  200  miles  distant,  by  the  windings 
of  the  river.  At  Portage  City  a ship- 
canal  conducts  small  steamers  to  the 
waters  of  the  Neenah  or  Fox  River  (the 
outlet  of  Lake  Winnebago),  by  which 
the  navigation  is  continued  through  the 
State,  from  the  Mississippi  to  Lake 
Michigan. 

The  Wisconsin  River  presents  many 
beautiful  pictures  to  the  eye  of  the  travel- 
ler. The  remarkable  passage  called  the 
Grandfather  Ball  Falls^  where  the  waters 
break  through  a bold  gorge  a mile  and 
a half  in  length,  and  flanked  on  either 
hand  with  rugged  walls  150  feet  in  height, 
is  well  worth  visiting.  Some  fine 
chalybeate  springs  add  to  the  attractions 
of  this  charming  spot,  and  promise  to 
make  it  before  long  a favorite  summer 
resort. 

Petenwell  Peah^  on  the  Wisconsin,  60 
miles  below  Grandfather  Bull  Falls,  is  a 
singular  oval  massive  rock,  900  feet  in 
length  and  300  wide,  with  an  elevation 
above  the  surrounding  country  of  200 
feet.  The  summit  for  70  feet  is  perpen- 
dicular, and  the  rocks  in  their  fantastic 
groupings  assume  the  most  wonderful 
architectural  appearances,  almost  per- 
suading the  voyager  that  he  is  trans- 
ported back  to  feudal  ages,  and  is  pass- 
ing through  a barbaric  land  of  castled 
and  battlemented  heights. 

Fortification  Rock  is  another  interesting 
point,  a few  miles  below  Petenwell  Peak. 
The  cliffs  here  have  a vertical  elevation  of 
100  feet.  At  the  Dalles  of  the  Wisconsin 
the  water  passes  for  about  six  miles  be- 
tween hills  of  solid  rock,  in  height  from 
30  to  100  feet.  The  smallest  width  of 
the  river  here  is  55  feet. 

Sjoiiis  Itiver,  which 
forms  part  of  the  boundary  between 
Minnesota  and  Wisconsin,  is  the  original 
source  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  re- 
markable for  a series  of  bold  rapids, 
called  the  Falls  of  St.  Louis.  {See  Lake 
AND  River  Tour  No.  I.) 

The  antiquary,  no  less  than  the  lover 
of  natural  beauty,  may  find  in  this  State 
sources  of  pleasure,  in  objects  scarcely 
less  strange  than  the  mystical  relics  of 
214 


the  Old  World.  Scattered  everywhere 
over  the  plains  of  Wisconsin,  are  singular 
structures  of  earth,  known  generally  as 
“ Mounds.”  At  Prairievillc,  there  is  one 
of  these  weird  works,  56  feet  in  length, 
which  has  the  resemblance  of  a turtle; 
near  the  Blue  Mounds  is  another,  120  feet 
in  length,  representing  a man  in  a recum- 
bent attitude ; near  Cassville  yet  another 
of  these  eccentric  labors  has  been  found, 
made  in  the  image  of  the  extinct  masto- 
don. At  Aztalan,  in  Jefferson  County, 
there  is  an  old  fortification  550  yards  in 
length,  and  275  wide.  The  walls  are  from 
4 to  5 feet  high,  and  more  than  20  feet 
thick. 

MO  UTE  I. 

CHICAGO,  ILL.,  TO  MILWAUKEE. 

Via  Milwaukee  Division  Chicago  & North 
western  Railway 

Stations.  — Chicago  : Ravenswood,  6 
miles  from  Chicago  ; Evanston,  1 2 ; Glen- 
coe, 19  ; Highland  Park,  23 ; Lake  Forest, 
28  ; Waukegan,  36  ; State  Line,  45 ; Ke- 
nosha (connects  with  Kenosha  Division), 
51 ; Racine  Junction,  60 ; Racine  (connects 
with  Western  Union  Railway),  62  ; Coun- 
ty Line,  70;  Oak  Creek,  75  ; Milwaukee 
(connects  with  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Rail- 
way), 85. 

As  far  as  Kenosha  this  road  has  been 
described  as  Route  VI.  of  Illinois.  {See 
page  199.) 

(62  miles),  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  the  same  name,  the  second  city 
of  the  State  in  population  and  commerce, 
is  beautifully  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
Root  River.,  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  on  a plain  about  40  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  waters.  It  has  one  of 
the  best  harbors  on  the  lake.  The  city 
is  handsomely  laid  out  in  wide  and  well- 
built  streets,  on  which  are  numerous  fine 
public  buildings,  large  warehouses,  manu- 
factories, and  retail  stores.  Racine  CoU 
lege,  founded  by  the  Episcopal  Church,  is 
one  of  the  most  prominent  educational 
institutes  of  the  West.  The  city  has  also 
a large  high-school  brick  building,  and 
several  commodious  school-houses,  three 
of  which  are  of  brick.  The  railway-car  and 
machine-shops  at  Racine  give  employ- 
ment to  a large  number  of  persons.  The 
Western  Union  Railway  connects  at  this 


Milwaukee.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[Milwaukee. 


point.  Racine  was  settled  in  1835;  in- 
corporated as  a city  in  1848.  Population 
in  1860,  "7,822  ; in  18"70,  about  15,000. 

Milwaiilcee  (85  miles),  the  com- 
mercial capital  of  Wisconsin,  and,  next 
to  Chicago,  the  largest  city  in  the  North- 
west, is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  west 
shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Milwaukee  River.  This  river  flows 
through  the  town,  and  with  the  Menomo- 
nee, with  which  it  forms  a junction,  di- 
vides it  into  three  nearly  equal  districts, 
which  are  severally  known  as  the  East, 
West,  and  South  Divisions.  The  town 
lies  upon  the  river-flats,  and  upon  the 
bluffs  which  overlook  the  lake.  The  Mil- 
waukee River  is  navigable  for  the  largest 
class  of  lake-vessels  for  two  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  forms  one  of  the  best  har- 
bors on  the  entire  northwestern  lake 
coast.  Nearly  half  a million  dollars  have 
been  expended  in  its  protection  and  im- 
provement. The  peculiar  color  of  the 
“ Milwaukee  brick,”  of  which  many  of  the 
buildings  are  made,  gives  the  city  a very 
unique  and  pretty  appearance,  and  has 
earned  for  it  the  name  of  the  “Cream 
City  ” of  the  lakes*  Four  steam  brick- 
mills  are  in  constant  operation.  In 
growth,  this  city  of  promise  has  kept 
pace  with  the  rapid  progress  characteris- 
tic of  the  region.  It  was  settled  in  1835, 
incorporated  in  1846,  had  a population  in 
1840  of  1,"751  ; in  1850,  of  20,061 ; in 
1860,  45,246.  Its  population  in  18"70 
was  "71,499.  There  are  about  60  church 
buildings  of  various  denominations  here, 
and  numerous  excellent  literary  institu- 
tions and  schools.  One  of  the  most  promi- 
nent church  edifices  is  the  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral of  St,  John.  The  new  Baptist  church, 
also  a handsome  structure,  was  built  at  a 
cost  of  $35,000.  The  city,  which  em- 
braces an  area  of  1"7  miles  square,  is  di- 
vided into  nine  wards,  and  contains  about 
160  streets,  and  upward  of  14,000  dwell- 
ings, over  2,000  of  which  have  been  erect- 
ed since  1865.  It  is  well  lighted  and 
paved.  East  Water  and  Spring  Streets 
are  very  wide,  handsome  thoroughfares. 

Among  the  principal  hotels  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Rlankinton  House^  well  kept  by 
W.  H.  Cottrell,  the  Newhall  House^  the 
Walker  House^  and  the  Juneau  House,  the 
two  latter  in  Water  Street,  convenient  to 
the  business  portion  of  the  city. 


Among  the  prominent  public  buildings 
are  the  United  States  Custom-House,  which 
also  embraces  the  Post-Office  and  United 
States  courts.  It  is  of  Athens  stone,  and 
stands  on  the  corner  of  Wisconsin  and 
Milwaukee  Streets.  There  are  several 
bailing-houses,  some  of  which  are  fine 
buildings.  The  Music  Hall  is  a hand- 
some apartment,  with  sittings  for  2,300 
persons.  It  was  erected  in  1 864,  at  a cost 
of  $65,000,  and  is  owned  by  the  Ger- 
man Musical  Society.  The  theatre  build- 
ing known  as  the  Academy  of  Music  has 
800  sittings.  Besides  these  places  of  pub- 
lic resort,  the  city  contains  15  halls  and 
public  assembly-rooms. 

The  Germans  constitute  nearly  one-half 
of  the  entire  population,  and  their  influ- 
ence upon  the  social  life  of  the  inhabit- 
ants is  everywhere  seen.  Breweries  and 
lager-bier  saloons,  gardens,  gasthausen, 
music-halls,  and  restaurants,  abound. 
There  are  several  large  distilleries  and 
breweries.  The  consumption  of  lager, 
for  which  Milwaukee  is  now  so  famous 
throughout  the  whole  West,  is  estimated 
at  upward  of  1,000,000  gallons  annually. 
Twenty-five  firms  are  engaged  in  its  manu- 
facture, and  the  aggregate  annual  product 
is  2,600,000  gallons. 

The  Milwaukee  river  has  been  dammed, 
and  affords  fine  manufacturing  facilities. 
Among  the  more  prominent  industrial  es- 
tablishments are  the  flouring-mills.  That 
of  Betschey  & Kern,  built  at  a cost  of 
$150,000,  has  a capacity  for  making 
1,000  barrels  of  flour  daily,  and  is  well 
worth  visiting,  as  is  also  the  grain-eleva- 
tor of  the  Milwaukee  dc  St,  Paul  Railway. 
This  immense  structure  has  a storage  ca- 
pacity of  1,500,000  bushels  of  wheat,  and 
is  one  of  the  largest  on  the  continent. 
Upward  of  13,250,000  bushels  of  wheat, 
largely  the  product  of  the  State,  were  ex- 
ported either  in  bulk  or  in  flour  in  1865. 
The  total  storage  capacity  of  the  grain-ele- 
vators is  estimated  at  5,000,000  bushels. 
One  of  the  largest  rolling-mills  in  the 
West,  that  constructed  by  E.  B.  Ward, 
at  a cost  of  $300,000,  is  in  this  city. 

Milwaukee  of  late  years  has  become  a 
great  railway  centre.  It  connects  with 
the  La,  Crosse,  the  Sun  Prairie  <Se  Madi- 
son, the  Prairie  du  Chien,  and  the 
Northern  Divisions  of  the  Milwaukee 
St.  Paul  Railway,  which  embraces  some 
215 


Stations.]  WESTERN  TOUR.  [Madison. 


of-  the  principal  railway  lines  in  Wis- 
consin, Minnesota,  and  Northern  Iowa, 
viz. : 

MILKS. 


Milwaukee  to  La  Crosse 196 

Milwaukee  to  Prairie  du  Chieu 193 

Milwaukee  to  Portage./* 96 

North  McGregor  to  8 1.  Paul 212 

Horicon  to  Berlin  and  Winneconne 68 

Watertown  to  Madison 26 

Milton  to  Monroe 42 

Calmar  to  Algona 126 

Other  Branches 59 

Total 1,018 


Milwaukee  connects  by  daily  lines  of 
lake  steamers  with  the  west  side  ports, 
the  Lower  Lakes,  east  side  ports,  Detroit 
k Milwaukee  Railway,  and  Chicago. 


MOU  TE  II. 

MILWAUKEE  TO  PRAIRIE  DU  CIIIEK. 

Via  Prairie,  Du  Chien  Division  of  Alilwaulcee 
& Et,  Paul  Railway, 

Stations. — Milwaukee  (connects  with 
lake  steamers  and  with  diverging  rail- 
ways) : Brookfield  Junction  (connects 
with  La  Crosse  Division),  14  miles ; 
Waukesha,  20 ; Eagle,  36 ; Palmyra, 
42 ; Whitewater,  50 ; Milton,  62  ; Mil- 
ton  Junction  (connects  with  Wisconsin 
Division  of  Chicago  k Northwestern 
Railway),  63;  Edgerton,  'lO;  Stough- 
ton, 80  ; Madison  (connects  with  Madi- 
son Division  of  Chicago  k Northwest- 
ern Railway  and  with  Sun  Prairie  k 
Madison  Branch),  95;  Mazomaine,  118; 
Spring  Green,  132 ; Avoca,  145 ; Mus- 
coda,  151;  Boscobel,  165;  Prairie  du 
Chien  (connects  by  ferry  with  Wisconsin 
Division  at  North  McGregor  and  with 
river  steamers),  193, 

MilwJMilcee.  {Ece  page  215.) 

•STiiiictioja.  (14 
miles)  connects  with  La  Crosse  Division 
of  the  Milwaukee  & 8t,  Paul  Railway. 

"Waiikeslaa  (20  miles),  formerly 
Prairieville,  the  capital  of  Waukesha 
County,  is  on  the  Pishtaka,  or  Fox  River, 
situated  on  the  edge  of  a beautiful  prai- 
rie. The  court-house  and  jail  are  built 
of  a superior  quality  of  limestone,  found 
in  abundance  in  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood. Population,  about  3,000. 

Wlaitewatcr  (50  miles),  situated 
in  the  midst  of  a rich  farming  country, 
is  a thriving  village.  It  manufactures 
216 


cultivators,  ploughs,  chairs,  stoves,  etc. 
Population,  about  3,000. 

Milton  Junction  (63  miles) 
connects  with  the  Wisconsin  Division  of 
the  Chicac/o  Northwestern  Railway, 

Madi^^on  (95  miles),  the  capital  of 
the  State,  and  of  Dane  County,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  towns 
in  the  Northwest.  ‘ It  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  a broad  valley,  enclosed  by 
high  grounds,  occupying  an  isthmus  be- 
tween the  Third  and  Fourth  (Mendota) 
Lake.  Mendota  or  Fourth  Lake,  upon 
the  upper  side  of  the  city,  is  about  six 
miles  by  four  miles  in  area.  The  Third 
Lake  is  somewhat  smaller  ; both  are 
exceedingly  picturesque  waters,  deep 
enough  for  steamboat  navigation.  The 
city  lies  in  the  very  heart  of  the  “ Four 
Lake  Country,”  which  may  be  regarded 
as  the  Westmoreland  of  the  New  World. 
The  lakes  are  severally  known  as  Men- 
dota^  Menona^  Wauhesa^  Yahara^  and 
Peshugo,  Except  a log-cabin,  there  was 
not  a single  structure  upon  the  site  of 
Madison,  when  it  was  selected  in  1836  for 
the  capital  of  the  State ; yet  in  1860  the 
population  reached  9,068,  and  at  present 
it  is  about  16,000.  The  streets  of  this 
beautiful  city  drop  down  pleasantly  tow- 
ard the  shores  of  the  surrounding  lakes. 
Madison  perhaps  combines  and  overlooks 
more  charming  and  diversified  scenery 
than  any  other  town  in  the  West,  or  than 
any  other  State  capital  in  the  Union.  Its 
high  lakes,  fresh  groves,  rippling  rivulets, 
shady  dales,  and  flowery  meadow  lawns, 
are  commingled  in  greater  profusion,  and 
disposed  in  more  picturesque  order,  than 
we  have  ever  elsewhere  beheld.  The 
Capitol  cost  $150,000  to  build.  It  is  a 
limestone  edifice,  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a public  park  of  14  acres,  'ZO  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  lakes.  This  site, 
being  the  highest  land  between  Lakes 
Mendota  and  Menona,  commands  some 
fine  views.  The  University  of  Wisconsin^ 
founded  in  1849,  occupies  an  eminence 
(College  Hill)  a mile  west  of  the  capitol, 
and  125  feet  above  the  lakes.  The  State 
Historical  Society  and  the  State  Lunatic 
Asylum  are  located  here.  The  Court- 
House  and  Jail  occupy  the  southern  cor- 
ner of  the  public  square. 

Madison  connects  with  the  Madison 
1 Division  of  the  Chicago  do  Ncn'thiccstern 


Boscobel.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[Stations. 


Raihoay^  and  with  the  Sun  Prairie  <& 
Madison  Branch. 

ISosco^bel  (165  miles)  is  a thriving 
village  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Wisconsin 
River. 

S*rairie  Claieii  (193  miles). 
{^Sce  page  160.) 

M O UTE  III. 

MILWAUKEE  TO  LA  OBOSSE  AND 
HUDSON. 

Via  La  Crosse  Division  of  Miheaukee  & St. 

Paul  Pailway  and  the  West  Wisconsin  Pail 

way. 

Stations. — Milwaukee  (connects  with 
lake  steamers  and  railways  diverging) : 
Elm  Grove,  9 miles ; Brookfield  (junc- 
tion with  Prairie  du  Chien  Division),  13 ; 
Pewaukee,  19  ; Hartland,  23  ; Nashotah, 
26  ; Oconomowoc,  31 ; Ixonia,  37 ; Water- 
town,  43  ; Watertown  Junction  (crossing 
of  the  Wisconsin  Division  of  the  Chicago 
& Northwestern  Railway),  44;  Richwood, 
49 ; Lowell,  54 ; Elba,  59 ; Columbus, 
03  ; Pall  River,  67;  Otsego,  73  ; Rio,  77 ; 
Wyocena,  82  ; Portage  City  (junction  of 
the  Northern  Division),  91 ; Lewiston, 
100;  Kilbourn  City,  105;  Lyndon,  112; 
Lemonweir,  124;  Mauston,  127;  Lisbon, 
132 ; Orange,  138  ; Le  Roy,  147 ; Tomah 
(connects  with  the  West  Wisconsin  Divis- 
ion), 153;  Greenfield,  156;  Lafayette, 
163;  Sparta,  170;  Herseyville,  174; 
Bangor,  180  ; West  Salem,  184  ; La 
Crosse  (connects  with  Southern  Min- 
nesota Railway,  and  with  steamers  on 
the  river),  195. 

Stations. — West  Wisconsin  Railway. — 
Tomah,  153  miles;  Black  River  Falls,  185; 
Wright’s,  194;  Augusta,  219  ; Eau  Claire, 
241 ; Menomonee,  264  ; Hudson,  309 ; St. 
Paul,  Minn.,  328. 

ISrooktieldl  (13  miles)  connects 
with  the  Prairie  du  Chien  Division. 

Watertown  (43  miles)  is  on  the 
Wisconsin  River.  It  connects  with  the 
Wisconsin  Division  of  the  Chicago  <Sc 
Northwestern  Railway. 

Coliiml>iis  (63  miles)  is  a village 
of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Craw- 
fish River. 

S^ortag’o  City  (91  miles),  the 
capital  of  Columbia  County,  occupies 
the  site  of  old  Fort  Washington,  on  the 
ship-canal  connecting  the  Wisconsin  and 
10 


Fox  Rivers  at  the  noted  Winnebago 
Portage.  It  is  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Wisconsin  River,  and  is  a depot 
for  pine-lumber.  The  city  contains 
several  good-sized  and  handsome  edi- 
fices, among  which  'are  a brick  high- 
school  building,  and  a large  and  well- 
built  brick  court-house,  and  a good  hotel. 
The  Railway  Company  has  a round-house 
and  machine-shops  here.  Population, 
about  5,000. 

'S’omsfili.  (163  miles),  a growing  vil- 
lage, connects  with  the  West  Wisconsin^ 

^pa.ria>  (170  miles),  the  capital  of 
Monroe  County,  is  situated  on  the  La 
Crosse  River,  in  a very  fertile  valley. 

Crosse  (195  m.).  (/Si?ep.  160.) 

l^aa  Claire  (241  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Eau  Claire  County,  is  a township 
of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  on  the  Chip- 
pewa River. 

Memonaoiiee  (264  miles)  is  a vil- 
lage situated  on  Green  Bay,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Menomonee  River. 

BSiadsoa  (309  miles)  is  a flourishing 
village  of  2,000  inhabitants,  on  the  east- 
ern shore  of  Lake  St.  Croix.  The  West 
Wisconsin  Railway  now  extends  to  St. 
Paul. 

MO  UTE  IV. 

MILWAUKEE  TO  MADISON. 

Via  Sun  Prairie  &,  Madison  Line  of  Milwau- 
kee & St.  Paul  Railway. 

Stations. — Milwaukee  (connects  with 
lake  steamers  and  divergent  railways) : 
Watertown  Junction  (connects  with  La 
Crosse  Division),  44  miles  ; Hubbellton, 
63;  Waterloo,  58;  Marshall,  61;  Sun 
Prairie,  69;  Madison  (connects  with 
Prairie  du  Chien  Division,  and  with  Chi- 
cago & Northwestern  Railway),  82. 

Milwaiiltee,  i^See  page  215.) 

'^VatertowML  (44  miles).  (See  page 
217.) 

S®rairie  (69  miles)  is  a small 
but  growing  village. 

Madison  (82  miles).  (See  page 
216.) 

MO  UTE  V. 

MILWAUKEE  TO  PORTAGE  CITY. 

Via  Northern  Division  of  Milwaukee  <&  St. 

Paul  Railway. 

Stations. — Milwaukee  (connects  with 
lake  steamers  and  divergent  railways) : 
217 


SCHWARTZBURG.J 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Clinton. 


Schwartzburg  (connects  with  Milwaukee 
Northern  Railway),  1 miles;  Granville, 
13  ; Germantown,  18  ; Richfield,  23  ; 
Ackerville,  28 ; Schleisingervillc,  30 ; 
Hartford,  35  ; Rubicon,  39  ; Woodland, 
43  ; Iron  Ridge,  45  ; Horicon  Junction, 
62 ; Minnesota  Junction  (crossing  of 
Yfisconsin  Division  of  Chicago  k North- 
western Railway),  65 ; Rolling  Prairie, 
66 ; Beaver  Dam,  61 ; Fox  Lake  Junc- 
tion, 6Y  ; Randolph,  72  ; Cambria,  78  ; 
Pardeevillc,  87 ; Portage  City  (junction 
v/ith  La  Crosse  Division),  96. 

Milwaiilcee.  (See  page  215.) 

^dawartzlharg;  (13  miles),  on 
West  Branch  of  Rouge  River,  connects 
with  the  Milwatikee  Northern  Railway. 

Oernaaiitowm  (18  miles)  is  a vil- 
lage on  the  Wisconsin  River. 

SSoricoa  (52  miles),  a flourishing 
village  of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  on 
Rock  River,  connects  with  the  Berlin 
Branch. 

Miaaesota  (55  miles)  is  at  the 
junction  of  Wisconsin  Division  of  the 
Chicago  & Northwestern  Raihmy. 

Shortage  City  (96  miles).  (See 
page  217.) 

ItOUTE  VI. 

MILWAUKEE  TO  BEBLIK  AND  WIN 
NECONNE. 

Via  Northern  Division  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul 
BaiVway. 

Stations. — Milwaukee  (connects  with 
lake  steamers  and  divergent  railways) : 
Schwartzburg  (connects  with  Milwaukee 
Northern  Railway),  7 miles ; Granville, 
13;  Germantown,  18;  Richfield,  23; 
Ackerville,  28  ; Schleisingerville,  30  ; 
Hartford,  35 ; Rubicon.  39 ; Woodland, 
43 ; Iron  Ridge,  45 ; Horicon  Junction 
(branch  to  Portage  City  diverges),  52 ; 
Burnett  (connects  with  Wisconsin  Di- 
vision of  Chicago  & Northwestern  Rail- 
way), 57;  Waupun,  66;  Brandon,  74; 
Ripon,  81 ; Rush  Lake  (Winneconne 
Branch  connects),  88 ; Berlin,  94. 

Stations. — Winneconne  Branch. — Rush 
Lake,  88  miles  from  Milwaukee  (con- 
nects with  Northern  Division) ; Waukau, 
92  ; Omro,  97  ; Winneconne,  102. 

From  Milwaukee  to  Horicon  Junction 
has  been  described  in  Route  V.  of  Wis- 
consin. 


Burnett  (57  miles)  connects  with 
the  Wisconsin  Division  of  the  Chicago  ch 
Northwestern  Railivay. 

I^alcc  (88  miles)  connects 
with  the  Wmnecon7ie  Branch. 

^^inneconne  (102  miles)  is  a vil- 
lage of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  on  Fox 
River  at  the  mouth  of  Wolf  River. 


EOUTE  VII. 

CHICAGO,  ILL.,  TO  MARQUETTE,  MICH. 

Via  Wisconsin  Division  Chicago  & North- 
western  Railway;  bij  Steamer  vup  Green 
Bay,  and  Peninsular  Division  CJdcago 
Northwestern  Railway. 

Stations  on  Wisconsin  Division. — 
Chicago  (connects  with  railways  dwer- 
ging) : Canfield,  12  miles;  Des  Plaines, 
17;  Palatine,  26;  Barrington,  32;  Crys- 
tal Lake,  43;  Woodstock,  51  ; Harvard 
Junction  (connects  with  Madison  & Ke- 
nosha Divisions),  63;  Clinton  Junction 
(connects  with  Western  Union  Railway), 
78 ; Shopiere,  82  ; Janesville  (connects 
with  Southern  Wisconsin  Division  of  St. 
Paul  & Milwaukee  Railway),  91 ; Milton 
Junction  (connects  with  Prairie  du  Chien 
Division  of  St.  Paul  & Milwaukee  Rail- 
way), 99  ; Fort  Atkinson,  111 ; Jefferson, 
117;  Johnson’s  Creek,  122 ; Watertown 
(connects  with  La  Crosse  Division  of  St. 
Paul  & Milwaukee  Railway),  130 ; Juneau, 
146;  Minnesota  Junction  (connects  with 
Northern  Division  of  St.  Paul  & Mil- 
waukee Railway),  148;  Burnett,  152; 
Chester,  160;  Oakfield,  168;  Fond  du 
Lac  (connects  with  Sheboygan  & Fond 
du  Lac  Railway),  177 ; Oshkosh  (con- 
nects with  steamers  on  Wolf  River),  193  ; 
Neenah,  207;  Appleton  (connects  with 
steamers  on  Fox  River),  213  ; Little 
Chute,  218;  Kaukauna,  221;  Wrights- 
town,  226  ; De  Pere,  236  ; Fort  Howard 
(connects  with  steamers  on  Green  Bay), 
242  ; Green  Bay,  243. 

Stations  on  Peninsular  Division. — 
Escanaba,  343  miles  from  Chicago ; Day’s 
River,  356  ; Centreville,  373  ; Little 
Lake,  385  ; Negaunee,  405  ; Marquette, 
418. 

As  far  as  Harvard  Junction  this  road 
has  been  described  as  Route  V.  of  Illi- 
nois. (See  page  199.) 

Clinton  (78  miles)  is  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Western  Union  Railway. 


218 


Fond  du  Lac.] 


WISCONSIN. 


[Green  Bay, 


Janesville  (91  miles).  {See  Sta- 
tions on  Wisconsin  Division.) 

Milton  (99  miles).  {See  page  216.) 

'Watertown  (130  miles).  {See 
page  217.) 

Minnesota  (148  miles).  (/Seepage 
218.) 

S^ondL  din  K^ac  (177  miles),  at  the 
south  end  or  head  ot‘  Winnebago  Lake, 
177  miles  north  of  Chicago  and  65  miles 
south  of  Fort  Howard,  is  a place  much 
resorted  to  by  travellers  in  the  North- 
west. It  is  on  the  direct  route  to  Green 
Bay  and  the  copper  region  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior. {See  Lake  and  River  Tour,  No.  I.) 
Fond  du  Lac  is  remarkable,  among  other 
things,  for  its  Artesian  wells,  which  are 
so  numerous  that  nearly  every  household 
has  its  own.  They  vary  in  depth  from 
90  to  130  feet.  The  lumber  business  is 
extensively  carried  on.  Population,  about 
15,000.  Communication  between  Win- 
nebago Lake  and  Green  Bay  is  effected 
by  steamboats  on  Fox  River.  (For  de- 
scription of  Winnebago  Lake,  see  page 
213.)  Fond  du  Lac  connects  with  Mil- 
waukee by  the  Air  Line  Railway. 

Ostikosli,  Wis.  (193  miles),  lies 
pleasantly  on  the  west  side  of  Lake  Win- 
nebago, near  the  mouth  of  Fox  River. 
It  is  a very  flourishing  place,  already 
numbering  over  12,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  much  resorted  to  during  the  summer 
months.  Immediately  above  the  town 
the  Fox  River  widens  out  into  the  Lake 
Butte  des  Moris.  Oshkosh  is  the  entrance 
to  the  great  pine-region  of  Wisconsin. 
A visit  to  the  saw-mills  will  repay  the 
traveller.  More  than  50,000,000  feet  of 
lumber  are  manufactured  annually.  Wolf 
River^  the  main  channel  of  communica- 
tion with  the  pine-region,  is  navigable 
for  steamboats  a distance  of  100  miles. 
{See  Lake  Winnebago,  page  213.) 

Appleton,  'Wis.  (213  miles),  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  an  eminence  over- 
looking the  Fox  River,  30  miles  from  its 
mouth,  5 miles  from  Lake  Winnebago, 
and  214  from  Chicago  by  the  NorthwesU 
ern  Railway  ; from  Milwaukee  177  miles, 
via  Milton  Junction.  The  rapids,  known 
as  the  Grand  Chute^  have  a descent  of 
about  30  feet  in  a distance  of  one  mile 
and  a half.  Appleton  is  the  seat  of 
Lawrence  University.  The  scenery  in  the 
vicinity  is  attractive,  and  the  approach 


to  the  city  from  Green  Bay  presents  some 
of  the  most  picturesque  scenes  to  be 
found  in  this  region. 

Little  Chute.,  Kaukauna,  Wrightstown^ 
and  De  Fere.,  are  small  places  having 
stations  on  the  Northwestern  road.,  be- 
tween Appleton  and 

IPort  Mowas*^  (242  miles),  the 
terminus  of  the  Wisconsin  division  of 
the  Northwestern  Railway. 

Oreen.  IB  ay  City,  Wis.  (243 
miles),  opposite  Fort  Howard,  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  a free  drawbridge,  is 
a place  of  some  interest  to  Lake  Supe- 
rior and  Green  Bay  tourists.  The  steam- 
ers on  Lake  Michigan  and  the  bay  all 
stop  here.  The  descent  in  the  Fox 
River  aflbrds  fine  manufacturing  facili- 
ties, which  have  been  considerably  em- 
ployed. The  trip  northward  up  the  lake 
is  a favorite  one  with  those  who  have 
taken  it  during  the  summer  months.  The 
steamer  runs  daily  during  the  season  of 
navigation,  on  the  arrival  of  the  cars 
from  Chicago,  for  Escanaba,  Marquette, 
and  ports  on  Lake  Superior. 

Oreeii  Elay. — On  leaving  the  city 
of  Green  Bay  by  steamer  for  Escanaba, 
100  miles,  the  tourist  passes  through  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  sheets  of  water, 
connecting  with  Lake  Michigan  on  the 
north. 

The  harbor  of  Green  Bay  is  formed  by 
the  Fox  or  Neenah  River,  v/hich  here 
enters  from  the  south,  the  outward  chan- 
nel being  crooked  and  circuitous  until 
the  light-house,  7 miles  distant,  is  passed, 
when  the  bay  widens,  and  a large  expanse 
of  water  is  presented  to  view. 

Oconto.,  30  miles  north  of  Green  Bay, 
having  daily  communication  by  steam- 
boat, is  a flourishing  lumbering  village, 
lying  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay,  near 
the  mouth  of  a river  of  the  same  name. 

Little  Sturgeon  Point  (40  miles)  lies  on 
the  east  shore  of  the  bay. 

Sturgeon  Bay  is  a deep  indentation, 
running  nearly  across  the  neck  of  land 
which  separates  Green  Bay  from  Lake 
Michigan ; it  is  proposed  to  construct  a 
ship-canal  to  connect  them. 

Menomonee  (58  miles)  lies  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which 
forms  the  dividing  line  between  the  States 
of  Wisconsin  and  Michigan.  It  is  a 
flourishing  lumbering  village,  whence  are 
219 


Escanaba.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Elkhorn. 


annually  shipped  large  quantities  of  lum- 
ber to  Chicago  and  Eastern  markets. 

Green  Island  (60  miles),  nearly  midway 
between  the  termini  of  the  boat  route, 
lies  in  the  middle  of  the  bay,  where  there 
is  a light-house. 

Hat  Island  and  Strawberry  Island  are 
small  tracts  of  land  passed  on  the  east, 
near  the  main  shore. 

Chambers'' s Island  (Y5  miles)  is  a large 
and  fertile  body  of  land,  lying  near  the 
middle  of  the  bay,  which  is  here  about 
20  miles  wide. 

Forte  de  Mori  {DeatlCs  Door)  is  the 
entrance  into  Lake  Michigan,  separating 
the  main-land  from  Washington  Island, 
on  the  north,  which  is  attached  to  the 
State  of  Michigan.  To  the  east  lie  the 
broad  waters  of  Lake  Michigan. 

Cedar  Fiver  (90  miles)  enters  from  the 
v/est,  where  is  a lumbering  establishment, 
the  whole  west  shore  of  Green  Bay  pro- 
ducing a heavy  growth  of  pine  and  other 
kinds  of  timber. 

Leaving  Cedar  River,  the  steamer’s 
course  lies  for  Little  Bay  de  Noquet^  30 
miles  distant,  affording  a view  of  the 
waters  of  Lake  Michigan  on  the  east, 
while  to  the  north  lies  Great  Bay  de  Ho~ 
quet^  about  10  miles  wide  and  20  miles  in 
length. 

Fensaukee^  Feshtigo^  and  other  towns 
are  springing  up  on  the  west  shore 
of  Green  Bay,  where  are  to  be  found 
numerous  large  lumber  establishments, 
situated  on  the  streams  running  into  the 
bay. 

Micli.  (343  miles 
from  Chicago),  is  a new  and  promis- 
ing town,  situated  on  the  western  shore 
of  Little  Bay  de  Noc,  120  miles  north 
of  the  city  of  Green  Bay,  and  is  the 
southern  terminus  of  the  Feninsular 
Railway  of  Michigan,  This  place,  laid 
out  in  the  spring  of  1864,  has  a good  and 
secure  harbor,  of  easy  access,  with  a suf- 
ficient depth  of  water  for  the  largest  class 
of  vessels  navigating  the  lakes.  The 
docks  erected  by  the  railroad  company  are 
of  a substantial  and  commodious  char- 
acter, intended  for  the  transshipment  of 
iron  and  copper  ore  from  the  Lake  Supe- 
rior mines,  distant  about  65  miles. 

The  site  of  the  town  lies  on  Sand  Point, 
where  is  a favorable  view  of  the  waters 
of  Green  Bay  lying  to  the  south,  and 
220 


Little  Bay  de  Noc  on  the  north.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  with 
ample  public  grounds  adjoining  the  water- 
front. The  future  of  this  place  is  prom- 
ising, being  identified  with  the  rich  min- 
eral deposits  of  the  Upper  Peninsula  of 
Michigan,  bordering  on  Lake  Superior. 
Escanaba  has  good  hotel  accommodation. 

The  Peninsular  Railway  runs  from  the 
wharf  at  Escanaba,  through  a new  and 
wild  section  of  country,  to  Negaunee,  62 
miles,  there  intersecting  the  Bay  de  Ro- 
quet and  Marquette  Railway^  13  miles 
above  Marquette,  forming  a through-line 
of  travel. 

Mai*q[uette,  Micli.  (418  miles). 
{See  page  145.) 

The  Bay  de  Roquet  <fh  ^^rquette  and 
the  Marquette  ds  Onionagon  Railways 
form  a connection  at  the  iron-mines,  and 
now  extend  to  Lake  Michigami,  40  miles 
from  Marquette.  This  important  road  is 
rapidly  extending  to  Ontonagon,120  miles, 
also  to  Portage  Lake,  thus  connecting 
the  iron  and  copper  regions  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. {See  Lake  and  River  Tour, 
No.  I,  page  145.) 

nOUTB  VIII. 

BAGINE,  WIS^  TO  BOOK  ISLAND,  ILL, 
Via  Western  Union  Bailway, 

Stations.  — Racine  (connects  with  Mil- 
waukee Division  Chicago  & Northwestern 
Railway)  : Union  Grove,  15  miles;  Bur- 
lington, 2Y ; Springfield,  34  ; Elkhorn  (con- 
nects with  Milwaukee  Division),  41 ; Dari- 
en, 50 ; Clinton  (connects  with  Wisconsin 
Division  of  Chicago  & Northwestern  Rail- 
way), 59  ; Beloit  (connects  with  Madison 
Division  of  Chicago  & Northwestern  Rail- 
way), 69 ; Durand,  85 ; Freeport  (con- 
nects with  Galena  Division  of  Chicago  k 
Northwestern  and  with  Northern  Division 
of  Illinois  Central  Railway),  104 ; Shan- 
non, 118 ; Mt.  Carroll,  131 ; Savanna,  142 ; 
Thomson,  152 ; Fulton  (connects  with 
Iowa  Division  of  Chicago  k Northwestern 
Railway),  159  ; Cordova,  175  ; Port 
Byron,  180  ; Rock  Island  Junction  (con- 
nects with  Chicago,  Rock  Island  & Pacific 
Railway),  190 ; Rock  Island,  197. 

l£a<cii&e«  {See  page  214.) 

IIIIaIaoi*!!.  (41  miles),  the  capital  of 
Walworth  County,  is  a town  of  about 


Stations.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Minnesota. 


3,000  inhabitants,  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a very  fertile  country,  which  is  diver- 
sified by  prairies  and  small  lakes. 

Cliiatofii  (59  miles).  page  218.) 
ISeloil  (69  miles).  {See  page  199.) 

111.  (142  miles).  {See 

page  161.) 

©'niton  (159  miles).  {See  page  73.) 
SSocli:  S.slcind  (197  miles).  {See 
page  76.) 

MOJJTB  IX. 

MADISOy,  WISOON^STN-,  TO  CmCAGO, 
ILLINOIS. 

Via  Madison  Dwision  of  Chicago  & North- 
western Railway. 

Stations. — Madison  (connects  with 
railways  diverging) : Oregon,  10  miles ; 
Magnolia,  27  ; Hanover,  34 ; Afton,  40 ; 
Beloit  (connects  with  Western  Union 
Railway),  47  ; Caledonia  (connects  with 
Kenosha  Division),  60 ; Harvard  (connects 
with  Wisconsin  Division),  75  ; Chicago 
(connects  with  railways  diverging),  138. 
Maclijion.  {See  page  199.) 
©Scloit  (47  miles).  (/See  page  199.) 


CJaleilonia  (60  miles)  connects 
with  the  Kenosha  Division.  {See  page 
199.) 

Mai-vard.  (75  miles).  {See  page 
199.) 

C/'lalcag’o  (138  miles).  {See  page  6.) 


ROUTE  X. 

SHEBOYGAN  TO  FOND  DU  LAG. 
Via  Sheboygem  cfe  Fmid  du  Lac  Railway. 

Stations. — Sheboygan  (connects  with 
steamers  on  Lake  Michigan) : Sheboy- 
gan Falls,  5 miles  ; Glenbeulah,  21  ; St. 
Cloud,  26  ; Calvary,  31 : Fond  du  Lac  (con- 
nects with  Wisconsin  Division  of  Chicago 
& Northwestern  Railway),  45. 

S3ael)oyg’aa,  the  capital  of  Sheboy- 
gan County,  is  situated  on  a river  of  the 
same  name,  6 miles  from  its  entrance  into 
Lake  Michigan,  with  which  it  connects  by 
steamer.  It  is  an  active  village  of  about 
3,500  inhabitants,  and  engages  largely  in 
the  manufacture  of  lumber. 

©'oiidl  <lii  (45  miles).  {See 

page  219.) 


MINNESOTA. 


The  State  of  Minnesota  derives  its 
name  from  its  principal  river,  the  Minne- 
sota (St.  Peter’s),  which,  in  the  Sioux  or 
Dakota  language,  means  “ muddy  water.” 
It  extends  from  43^°  to  49°  north  lati- 
tude, and  from  89°  29'  to  97°  5'  west 
longitude,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  British  possessions,  on  the  south 
by  Iowa,  on  the  east  by  Lake  Superior, 
Wisconsin,  and  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  on  the  west  by  Dakota  Territory. 

Romantic  stories  of  the  wonders  of 
the  land,  which  now  forms  the  State  of 
Minnesota,  were  told  more  than  two  cen- 
turies ago  by  the  zealous  French  mission- 
aries, who  had  even  at  that  remote 
period  pushed  their  adventures  thither ; 
nevertheless,  scarcely  twenty  years  have 
elapsed  since  immigration  has  earnestly 
set  that  way,  creating  populous  towns 
and  cultivated  farms  along  the  rivers 
and  valleys,  before  occupied  by  the 
canoe  and  the  wigwam  of  the  savage 
alone.  Some  idea  of  the  marvellous 


growth  and  development  of  this  young 
State  may  be  formed  by  the  fact  that 
during  the  past  decade  the  cultivated 
area  of  Minnesota  has  increased  nearly 
300  per  cent.,  the  population  nearly  250 
per  cent.,  and  the  value  of  manufactures 
about  250  per  cent.  In  1850,  the  census 
showed  a population  of  5,330;  in  1860, 
172,023  ; and  in  1870,  435,511.  The 
total  valuation  of  real  estate  and  per- 
sonal property  in  1860  was  $32,018,773. 
By  the  census  of  1870,  it  is  now 
$84,160,368.  The  magical  development 
of  Minnesota  is  in  keeping  with  that 
marvellous  spirit  of  progress  so  charac- 
teristic of  the  Western  sections  of  the 
United  States.  So  rapid  is  this  growth, 
and  on  such  a sure  and  enlightened 
basis,  that  the  church  and  the  school- 
house  spring  up  in  the  wilderness  before 
there  are  inhabitants  to  occupy  them. 
In  Minnesota,  one  of  the  earliest  founda- 
tions was  that  of  an  Historical  Society 
(1849),  established  almost  before  the  his- 
221 


Minnesota  River.] 


AVESTERN  TOUR. 


[Minnesota  Lakes. 


tory  of  the  country  had  begun.  As  a 
field  of  adventure  for  student  and 
sportsman,  Minnesota  offers  greater  at- 
tractions than  perhaps  any  other  State 
in  the  AVest ; while  the  beauty  of  its 
scenery  and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate 
present  inducements  to  the  lover  of 
Nature  and  the  invalid  which  will  always 
make  it  a desirable  region  for  explora- 
tion and  settlement.  Minnesota  occupies 
an  area  almost  four  times  as  great  as 
that  of  the  State  of  Ohio,  extending 
from  the  Mississippi  and  the  St.  Croix 
Risers,  and  from  Lake  Superior  on  the 
east  to  the  Missouri  and  the  AVhite-Earth 
Rivers  on  the  west,  a distance  of  more 
than  400  miles ; and  from  the  Iowa  line 
on  the  south  to  the  British  borders  on 
the  north — also  400  miles  apart.  The 
entire  area  embraces  81,259  square 
miles,  or  53,760,000  acres.  Almost  the 
whole  of  this  vast  region  is  a fine  rolling 
prairie  of  rich  soil,  a sandy  loam  adapt- 
ed to  the  short  summers  of  the  climate, 
and  which  produces  bounteously.  The 
surface  of  the  country,  excepting  the 
Missouri  plains,  is  interspersed  with  nu- 
merous beautiful  lakes  of  fresh  water 
— all  abounding  in  the  finest  fish,  and 
their  banks  covered  with  a rich  growth 
of  woodland. 

The  land  of  Minnesota  is  about  equal- 
ly divided  between  oak-openings  and 
prairies,  the  whole  well  watered  by  numer- 
ous navigable  streams.  In  the  eastern 
section,  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, Rum  River,  and  the  St.  Croix,  are 
extensive  pine  and  hard-wood  forests, 
apparently  inexhaustible  for  centuries  ; 
while  from  the  mouth  of  Crmo-wing 
River^  a tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  an 
extensive  forest  of  hardwood  timber, 
fifty  miles  in  width,  extends  southwest- 
erly into  the  country  watered  by  the 
Blue-Earth  River,  a tributary  of  the 
Minnesota  River,  emptying  into  it  150 
miles  above  its  mouth. 

The  Minnesota  River  rises  near  Lac 
Traverse,  flows  southeasterly  a distance 
of  450  miles,  and  empties  into  the  Mis- 
sissippi at  Fort  Snelling,  seven  miles 
above  St.  Paul,  and  the  same  distance 
below  St.  Anthony.  This  is  one  of  the 
finest  streams  in  the  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  the  country  through  which  it 
flows  is  not  excelled  for  salubrity  of  cli- 
222 


mate  and  fertility  of  soil  by  any  part  of 
the  United  States.  In  a good  stage  of 
water,  steamboats  can  ascend  it  almost 
to  its  source.  A portage  of  three  miles 
then  connects  it  with  Lac  Traverse ; and 
the  outlet  of  the  latter,  the  Sioux  AYood 
River,  with  the  famous  Red  River  of  the 
North,  This  stream  is  navigable  at  all 
seasons  for  steamboats  from  Bois  de 
Sioux  (Sioux  City)  to  Pembina,  on  the 
British  line,  to  the  Selkirk  settlements, 
100  miles  beyond  and  even  to  Lake  AVin- 
nipeg.  The  Mississippi  has  been  described 
in  Lake  and  River  Tour,  No.  I.  St, 
Croix  Lake  and  River  are  navigable  to 
the  Falls,  60  miles  above  the  junction  of 
the  lake  and  Mississippi ; and  the  St. 
Louis  River  is  navigable  from  Lake  Supe- 
rior 20  miles  to  Fond  du  Lac.  Numerous 
other  streams  are  navigable  for  light- 
draught  steamers  and  flat-boats  from  50 
to  100  miles,  penetrating  into  the  interior 
to  the  pineries,  and  giving  easy  access 
into  the  country  in  all  directions.  These 
are  the  Blue-Earth.^  Rum^  Elk.^  Sauky 
CrmOy  Crmo-wingy  Vermilion^  and  Cannon 
Rivers. 

'File  oF  Minnesota., 

which  are  very  numerous,  form  one  of 
the  most  inviting  and  picturesque  fea- 
tures of  the  State.  They  are  found  in 
every  section,  and  are  annually  visited  by 
large  numbers  of  tourists  and  sportsmen. 
Sometimes  they  are  little  ponds  a mile  in 
circumference,  and,  again,  sheets  of  wa- 
ter 40  or  50  miles  in  extent.  Their  shores 
are  charmingly  wooded,  and  frequently 
present  fine  pictures  of  cliff  and  head- 
land. The  waters  are  pure  and  trans- 
parent, and  are  filled  with  white-fish, 
trout,  pike,  pickerel,  sucker,  perch,  and 
other  finny  inhabitants.  The  largest  of 
these  lakes  are  the  Minnetonka^  the 
Osakis  or  Spirit  Lake^  White  Bear^ 
Kandiyohiy  Otter-tail^  and  Mille  Lac. 
Lake  Pepin^  a beautiful  expansion  of  the 
Mississippi,  is  in  this  region.  On  its  east 
bank  is  the  famous  Maiden's  Rocky  400 
feet  high;  and,  near  the  northern  end, 
the  La  Grange  Mountain  rises  in  a bold 
headland,  230  feet  above  the  water. 
Rainy  Lake^  Minne-  Waken  or  Devil  LakCy 
Red  and  Leach  LakeSy  are  all  in  this 
State. 

On  the  northeastern  border  of  the 
territory  is  Lake  Superior,  with  its  valua- 


Stations.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Mendota. 


ble  fisheries  and  its  shores  abounding  in 
inexhaustible  mines  of  copper,  coal,  iron, 
etc.,  besides  affording  the  facility  of  that 
vast  inland  sea  for  immigration  and  com- 
merce. {See  Lake  and  River  Tour, 
No.  I.) 

Various  elevated  ridges  traverse  Min- 
nesota, though  the  State  is  far  from  being 
of  a mountainous  character.  The  pla- 
teau called  the  Coieaux  des  Prairies^  or 
the  Prairie  Heights,  is  one  of  these 
singular  terraces.  It  extends  200  miles, 
with  a breadth  varying  from  20  to  40 
miles.  The  average  elevation  of  this 
lofty  plain  is  some  1,500  feet,  and  in 
some  parts  it  rises  nearly  2,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  In  the  north 
it  is  about  900  feet  above  the  neighbor- 
ing waters  of  Big-Stone  Lake.  There  is 
another  range  of  wooded  heights,  reach- 
ing 100  miles  or  more,  called  the  “ Co- 
teau  du  Grand  Bois.”  Then  there  are 
the  “ Hauteurs  de  Terre,”  highlands 
which  extend  some  300  miles.  These 
last-mentioned  ridges  form  the  dividing 
line  of  the  rivers,  which  flow  to  Hudson’s 
Bay  on  one  side  and  to  the  Mississippi 
and  Lake  Superior  on  the  other. 

MOUTJE  I. 

MILWAUKEE,  TFZS:,  TO  JST.  PAUL, 
MIKK. 

Via  Milwaukee  St.  Paul  Eailway. 

Stations.  — Milwaukee  : Brookfield 

Junction  (La  Crosse  Division  diverges), 
14  miles;  Waukesha,  20;  Eagle,  3G ; 
Palmyra,  42  ; Whitewater,  50 ; Milton, 
62  ; Milton  Junction  (connects  with  Wis- 
consin Division  of  Chicago  & North- 
western Railway),  63  ; Edgerton,  '70 ; 
Stoughton,  80  ; Madison  (connects  with 
railways  diverging),  95  ; Mazomanie,  118 ; 
Spring  Green,  132 ; Avoca,  145 ; Mus- 
coda,  151  ; Boscobel,  165 ; Prairie  du 
Chien,  193  ; North  McGregor,  194;  Post- 
ville,  220;  Ossian,  231;  Calmar  (Iowa 
& Dakota  Division  diverges),  23Y ; Con- 
over, 240 ; Cresco,  256  ; Lime  Springs, 
267 ; Le  Roy,  279  ; Austin  (Mason  City 
k Minnesota  Branch  diverges),  305  ; 
Ramsey  (connects  with  Southern  Min- 
nesota Railway),  308 ; Blooming  Prairie, 
320  ; Owatonna  (connects  with  Winona 
& St.  Peter’s  Railway),  338 ; Faribault, 


353 ; Dundas,  364  ; Northfield,  367 ; Far- 
mington (connects  with  Hastings  k Da- 
kota Division),  380 ; Mendota  (connects 
with  St.  Paul  & Sioux  City  Railway), 
400 ; Minneapolis  (connects  with  St. 
Paul  k Pacific  Railway),  409 ; St.  Paul, 
406. 

From  Milwaukee  to  Prairie  du  Chien 
this  road  has  been  described  as  Route 
II.  of  Wisconsin  (see  page  216) ; and 
from  McGregor,  Iowa,  to  Austin,  Minn., 
as  Route  VIII.  of  Iowa.  (See  page 
206.) 

Fapil>aLiiIt  (353  miles),  the  capital 
of  Rice  County,  situated  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Cannon  and  Straight  Rivers,  is 
one  of  the  most  populous  and  thriving 
interior  towns  in  the  State.  In  1853  it 
was  the  site  of  Alexander  Faribault’s 
trading-post.  Since  1857  its  growth  has 
been  rapid,  and  the  present  population 
is  estimated  at  5,000.  The  Slate  Asylum 
for  the  deaf  and  dumb,  and  an  Episco- 
palian College,  are  located  here.  The 
National  and  the  Barron  House  are  the 
leading  hotels. 

Owato2iiia(338  miles),  the  capital 
of  Steele  County,  on  Straight  River,  con- 
nects with  the  Winona  St,  Peter's  PaiU 
way. 

Mendota,  (400  miles),  which  lies 
about  half  a mile  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Minnesota,  was  formerly  a trading-post 
of  the  American  Fur  Company,  but  is 
now  mainly  important  to  the  traveller 
as  a point  of  convergence  and  radia- 
tion for  the  several  railway  lines  lead- 
ing to  and  from  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis, 
and  Winona.  Until  within  a few  years  it 
was  included  in  the  military  reserve  of 
Fort  Snelling.  It  has  not  attained  that 
degree  of  prosperity  so  remarkable  in  the 
villages  of  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  and 
which  its  far  more  favorable  position 
might  justly  have  secured  for  it.  The 
vicinity  commands  some  fine  views.  From 
Pilot  Knob,  which  lies  back  of  Mendota,  a 
view  may  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding 
country  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  af- 
fording to  the  spectator  a sight  of  one  of 
the  most  charming  natural  pictures  to  be 
found  in  this  State,  so  justly  celebrated  for 
scenic  beauty.  The  view  embraces,  within 
a circle  of  eight  or  nine  miles,  a grand 
spectacle  of  rolling  prairie,  extended  plain 
and  groves,  the  valley  of  the  Minnesota 
223 


Minneapolis.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[St.  Peter. 


with  its  meandering  stream,  a bird’s-eye 
view  of  Port  Snelling,  Lake  Harriet  in 
the  distance — the  town  of  St.  Anthony 
just  visible  through  the  nooks  of  the  in- 
tervening groves — and  St.  Paul,  looking 
like  a city  set  upon  a hill,  its  buildings 
and  spires  distinctly  visible,  and  present- 
ing in  appearance  the  distant  view  of  a 
city  containing  a population  of  a hundred 
thousand  human  beings. 

Miioiest^polis  (409  miles),  the 
capital  of  Hennepin  County,  and  one  of 
the  most  populous  and  flourishing  points 
in  the  State,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  in  full  view  of  the  falls 
and  the  town  of  St.  Anthony.  It  con- 
nects with  the  St.  Faul  ch  Pacific  Railway. 
The  town  is  well  built  and  contains  sev- 
eral commodious  buildings,  among  which 
the  Court-House^  the  various  mills,  and 
the  two  leading  hotels,  the  Nicollet  House 
and  First  National  Hotels  are  the  most 
prominent.  The  Music  Hall.,  Athenoeum 
(Post-Office),  and  Harrison  Hall.,  are  also 
among  the  principal  buildings.  Like  its 
neighbor,  St.  Anthony,  Minneapolis  de- 
rives much  of  its  prosperity  from  the 
adjacent  falls.  The  saw  and  grist  mills 
are  numerous  and  extensive.  A short 
distance  south  of  the  town  is  an  en- 
closure of  75  acres  which  is  used  as  a 
Driving  Park,  Silver  Cascade  and  Bridal 
Veil  P'alls  are  reached  in  an  easy  ride 
from  Minneapolis.  Lakes  Harriet  and 
Calhoun  afford  delightful  drives  and 
sport.  Lake  Minnetonka  is  12  miles 
westward.  Minneapolis  is  growing  more 
rapidly  than  any  other  town  in  the  State, 
and,  having  just  absorbed  St.  Anthony,  is 
disputing  the  supremacy  with  St.  Paul. 

St,  !IPaiil  (406  miles).  i^See  page 
154.) 


MOUTE  II. 

LA  CB0S8E  TO  WINNEBAGO. 

Via  Southern  Minnesota  Hallway. 
Stations. — La  Crosse  (connects  with 
La  Crosse  Division  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul 
Railway) : Ilokah,  6 miles ; Houston,  19  ; 
Rushford,  31 ; Whalan,  45  ; Lanesboro’, 
51;  Fountain,  62;  Grand  Meadow,  86; 
Ramsey  (connects  with  Minnesota  Di- 
vision of  Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Railway), 
107;  Albert  Lea,  128;  Alden,  138; 
224 


Wells,  148 ; Winnebago  (connects  with 
stages  for  Blue  Earth  (Jity,  etc.),  170. 

Sia  Crosse.  {^Sce  page  160.) 

StaiMsey  (107  miles)  connects  with 
the  Minnesota  Division  of  the  Alilwaukce 
& St.  Paul  Railway. 

'Wi3tn.cl>as'o  (170  miles)  connects 
with  stages  to  Blue  Earth  City. 

MOUTE  III. 

WINONA  TO  ST.  PETER. 

Via  Wincma  &,  St.  Peter  Railway. 

Stations.  — Winona  (connects  with 
river  steamers) : Minnesota  City,  6 miles ; 
Lewiston,  19  ; St.  Charles,  28  ; Eyota,  37 ; 
Rochester,  50 ; Kasson,  65 ; Claremont, 
78;  Owatonna  (connects  with  Milwaukee 
k St.  Paul  Railway),  90 ; Meriden,  99 ; 
Waseca,  105;  Janesville,  116;  Mankato 
Junction  (branch  to  Mankato  diverges), 
131;  St.  Peter  (connects  with  St.  Paul 
k Sioux  City  Railway),  140. 

"WiJiona.  {^See  page  159.) 

Moclaester  (50  miles),  the  capital 
of  Olmsted  County,  on  the  southern 
branch  of  the  Zumbro  River,  is  rather 
an  important  station.  It  is  surrounded 
by  rich  farms,  of  which  wheat  is  the 
staple  product.  Population  about  2,500. 

Owatonna  (90  miles).  {See  page 
223.) 

"Waseca  (105  miles)  is  situated  on 
beautiful  prairie-land,  in  the  county  of  the 
same  name. 

Mankato  (131  miles),  the  capital 
of  Blue  Earth  County,  is  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Minnesota  or  St.  Peter  River, 
148  miles  from  its  mouth,  at  the  head  of 
permanent  navigation.  It  is  in  the  midst 
of  a fertile  country,  and  must  eventually 
become  a place  of  much  importance. 
Population  about  4,000. 

l^eteir  (140  miles),  the  capital 
of  Nicollet  County,  is  advantageously 
situated  on  the  Minnesota  River.  It  con- 
nects with  the  St,  Paul  & Sioux  City 
Railway. 

MOUTE  IV. 

ST.  PAUL  TO  ST.  JAMES. 

Via  St.  Paul  <Sa  Siov/x  City  Railway. 

Stations. — St.  Paul  (connects  with 
diverging  railways  and  with  river  steam- 


St.  Anthony.] 


MINNESOTA. 


[Kandiyohi 


ers):  Mendota, Junction  (connects  with 
Milwaukee  & St.  Paul  Railway),  6 miles ; 
Hamilton,  18 ; Shakopee  (connects  with 
Hastings  & Dakota  Division  of  MihvauUee 
& St.  Paul  Railway),  28 ; Brentwood,  39  ; 
Belle  Plaine,  47 ; Le  Sueur,  63  ; St.  Peter 
(connects  with  Winona  & St.  Peter  Rail- 
way), 75;  Mankato,  86;  Lake  Crystal, 
100  ; Madelia,  110  ; St.  James,  122. 

(See  page  154.) 

Mendota  Jaiictiosi  (6  miles). 

(See  page  223.) 

St.  IPeter  (75  miles).  (See  page 
224.) 

Maalcato  (86  miles).  (See  page 
224.) 

St.  Jlames  (122  miles)  is  the  pres- 
ent terminus  of  the  road. 


nOUTE  F. 

ST.  PAUL  TO  BBECKENRIDGE. 

Via  First  Division  St.  Paul  S Paeijie  Rail- 
way. 

Stations. — St.  Paul  (connects  with  riv- 
er steamers  and  diverging  railways) : St. 
Anthony  Junction,  10  miles  ; St.  Anthony, 
10;  Minneapolis,  11 ; Wayzata  (connects 
with  steamer  for  Excelsior),  25 ; Long 
Lake,  28  ; Maple  Plain,  33  ; Delano  (con- 
nects with  stages  for  Watertown  and 
Rockford),  40;  Waverly,  49;  Howard 
Lake,  54;  Smith  Lake,  57 ; Cokato,  61 ; 
Dassel,  67 ; Darwin,  72 ; Litchfield,  84  ; 
Kandiyohi,  104  ; Willmar,  125  ; Brecken- 
ridge,  217. 

St.  (See  page  154.) 

St.  Aiitlioiay  (10  miles)  is  a 
thriving  place  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, at  the  famous  falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
The  village  is  situated  upon  a lofty  ter- 
race overlooking  the  falls.  It  was  in- 
corporated in  1855,  but  now  forms  part 
of  Minneapolis.  Its  position  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  Father  of  Waters, 
below  the  falls,  is  of  immense  commercial 
consideration,  and  the  falls  afford  incal- 
culable water-power  for  manufactories. 
The  State  University  and  the  Winslow 
House  building,  now  used  for  the  pur- 
pose of  a hygienic  water-cure,  are  seen 
in  approaching  or  entering  the  town.  St. 
Anthony  is  connected  with  Minneapolis 
by  a suspension-bridge  620  feet  in  length, 
erected  in  1855. 


TBie  Falls  of  St.  Aatlioiiy, 

the  principal  attraction  hereabouts,  can 
be  seen  with  about  equal  advantage  from 
either  shore.  The  fall  is  18  feet  perpen- 
dicular, with  a rapid  descent  of  50  feet 
within  a distance  of  one  mile.  The  river 
at  this  point  is  divided  by  an  island  (Ni- 
collet), as  at  Niagara,  where  it  rushes 
over  a bold  and  broad  ledge  of  limestone. 
The  falls  are  not  so  striking  as  one  might 
expect  from  the  descriptions  given  them 
by  some  travellers.  Says  a tourist : 
“ There  is  no  prodigious  height  for  the 
water  to  leap  from,  as  at  Niagara,  but  the 
rapids  are  grander  and  quite  as  extensive, 
while  their  power  is  shown  by  the  large 
slabs  of  stone  which  lie  in  distorted  piles 
along  the  shore,  some  standing  up  on 
end  like  giant  tombstones,  others  piled 
irregularly  as  if  trying  to  crowd  away 
from  the  fearful  force  of  the  water. 

“ For  a quarter  of  a mile  above  the 
main  fall  the  bed  of  the  river  is  composed 
of  a thin  stratum  of  limestone,  supported 
by  sandstone.  This  latter,  being  soft 
and  crumbling,  is  worn  away  under  the 
constant  action  of  the  water,  thus  form- 
ing a sort  of  cave,  with  the  slab  of  lime- 
stone from  which  the  water  falls  over- 
hanging it.  Of  course,  as  this  excava- 
tion grows  deeper,  the  limestone  having 
nothing  to  support  it,  and  unable  to  bear 
the  heavy  mass  of  water,  breaks  away, 
and  thus  St.  Anthony’s  Falls  recede. 

“As  a mere  spectacle,  St.  Anthony’s 
Fall  is  grander  by  moonlight  than  at  any 
other  time,  for  then  the  unpoetical  and 
unsightly  buildings  around  it  do  not  ob- 
trude themselves,  while  the  noise  and 
dash  of  the  rapids  are  heard  and  seen  to 
perfection.  At  such  a time  St.  Anthony’s 
waters  present  an  overpowering  idea  of 
furious  strength,  and  one  worthy  to  be 
remembered  along  with  the  recollections 
of  Niagara  itself.  A greater  contrast  to 
the  gentle  beauty  of  Minnehaha  it  would 
be  impossible  to  find  ; and  yet  these  two 
cataracts  are  within  a short  walking-dis- 
tance of  each  other,  and  to  tourists  both 
will  be,  for  ages  to  come,  among  the 
greatest  attractions  of  the  Northwest.” 

Minnea<polis  (11  miles).  (See 
page  224.) 

Ma.ndiyolii  (104  miles)  is  situated 
in  a county  of  the  same  name,  which 
contains  numerous  small  lakes,  the  name 
225 


Breckenridge.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Moorhead. 


of  one  of  which  is  Kandiyohi.  The  coun- 
try around  here  is  undulating  or  nearly 
level,  and  the  soil  is  very  fertile. 

Breclceiiridlg’e  (217  miles)  is  on 
the  Red  River  of  the  North,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sioux  Wood  River. 

JHOUTE  VI. 

ST.  PAUL  TO  SAUK  liAPlDS,  CROW 
WING,  AKD  TUE  BED  BIVEB. 

Via  Sauk  Rapids  Branch  of  St.  Paul  <k  Pa- 
cific  Railway.,  and  by  Stage  to  Crow  Wing. 

Stations. — St.  Paul  (connects  with 
river  steamers  and  diverging  railways); 
St.  Anthony  Junction,  10  miles ; Mano- 
min,  18;  Anoka,  30;  Itasca,  36;  Elk 
River  (connects  with  stage  for  Prince- 
ton), 40  ; Big  Lake  (connects  with  stage 
for  Monticello),  50;  Clear  Lake  (con- 
nects with  stage  for  Clear  Water),  65 ; 
St.  Cloud  (connects  with  stage  for  Sauk 
Centre,  Alexandria  Port,  Abercromis, 
and  Fort  Garry,  B.  N.  A.),  75  ; Sauk 
Rapids  (connects  with  stage  for  Little 
Falls,  Fort  Ripley,  and  Crow  Wing),  78. 
St.  {See  page  154.) 

St.  Aatliony  (10  miles).  {See  page 
225.) 

Aaaoica  (30  miles),  the  capital  of 
Anoka  County,  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Mille  Lac  (Rum  River),  at  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Mississippi.  It  was  sur- 
veyed in  1854,  and  has  a population  of 
about  2,500. 

St.  Cloiacl  (75  miles),  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  foot  of 
Sauk  Rapids,  is  a thriving  place  of  some 
3,000  inhabitants.  It  has  a good  hotel 
(Fletcher  House). 

@aal£  ISapicls  (78  miles)  is  a 
pretty  village,  connecting  by  stage  with 
Little  Falls,  Fort  Ripley,  and  Crow  Wing. 
The  river  here  falls  15  feet  in  a distance 
of  half  a mile,  and  furnishes  a valuable 
water-power.  The  Mississippi  above  the 
rapids  flows  through  a level  country,  inter- 
spersed with  timber,  as  far  as  Crow  Wing. 

From  Sauk  Rapids  the  adventurous 
tourist  may  pursue  his  journey  nearly  200 
miles  to  the  Red  River,  or  still  farther  to 
Fort  Garry,  in  British  North  America. 

Crow  WiMg^  (120  miles  from  St. 
Paul),  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Crow-Wing 
226 


River,  is  an  important  Indian  trading-post, 
and  prospecitively  a place  of  much  impor- 
tance in  connection  with  the  St.  Paul 
Pacific  Railway.^  which  will  eventually  be 
extended  northward  to  Pembina,  on  the 
Red  River.  The  St.  Paul  Ac  Pacific  Rail- 
way has  beeiv  bought  by  and  practically 
consolidated  with  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railway. 

nOUTE  VII. 

DULUTH  TO  MISSOURI  RIVER. 

Via  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

Stations. — Duluth  (connects  with  lake 
steamers  to  Eastern  ports) : Spirit  Lake, 
9 miles ; Thomson,  23 ; Junction  (con- 
nects with  Lake  Superior  & Mississippi 
Railroad),  24  ; Island  Lake,  46  ; Kimber- 
ly, 76  ; Brainerd,  115  ; Motley,  137  ; Hay- 
den, 143  ; Aldrich,  151 ; Leaf  River,  166  ; 
Detroit,  206 ; Oak  Lake,  210 ; Hawley, 
229  ; Glyndon,  242;  Moorhead  (connects 
with  stages  and  steamboats  on  Red 
River  for  Pembina  and  Fort  Garry), 
252. 

The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad.,  which 
when  completed  will  form  the  second 
great  highway  across  the  continent,  is 
now  finished  from  Duluth  to  Bismarck, 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Missouri  River.  It 
strikes  directly  across  the  centre  of  Min- 
nesota and  Dakota,  and  traverses  their 
richest  portions,  which  are  fast  filling  up 
with  settlers.  For  the  first  24  miles, 
from  Duluth  to  the  Junction.,  it  is  identi- 
cal with  the  Lake  Superior  & Mississippi 
Railroad,  and  between  the  tw^o  passes  by 
the  picturesque  and  striking  scenery  of 
the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Louis,  already  de- 
scribed on  page  153.  At 

(115  miles)  the  road 
crosses  the  Mississippi  on  a stout  w^ooden 
bridge,  and  enters  upon  the  prairie-re- 
gion of  Minnesota. 

B>etroit  (206  miles)  is  the  depot  for 
Detroit  Lake,  where  the  “ Boston  Colo- 
ny ” is  located. 

01ynd.on  (242  miles)  is  the  site  of 
another  flourishing  colony  ; and 

Moorliead.  (252  miles),  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Red  River  of  the  North. 

jESismsiPck  (465  miles)  is  at  the 
crossing  of  the  Missouri  River  and  at 
present  the  terminus  of  the  road. 


Stations.] 


MISSOURI. 


[Missouri. 


MOUTB  VIII. 

ST,  PAUL  TO  PEP  WIETG, 

Via  St,  Paid  d"  Chicago  Pivision  of  St.  Paul 
cj&  Milwaukee  Railway. 

Stations.  — St.  Paul  (connects  with 
river-steamers  and  diverging  railways) : 
Hastings,  20  miles ; Red  Wing  (connects 
with  river-steamers),  41. 

St.  {See  page  164.) 

SSastin^s  (20  miles),  {^e  page 
158.) 

ISed  Wing  (41  miles).  {See  page 
169.) 

BOUTE  IX. 

ST.  PAUL  TO  ST.  CROIX,  WISCOXSIX, 
Via  Steamboat  down  the  Mississippi  River 
and  up  the  St.  Croix  River. 

Landings. — St.  Paul : Red  Rock,  *l 
miles;  Hastings,  17;  Vermilion  River, 
20 ; Point  Douglas,  26 ; Prescott,  Wis., 
25  ; Hudson,  Wis.,  41 ; Stillwater,  46 ; Ma- 
rine Mills,  61 ; Osceola,  70 ; St.  Croix,  79. 

The  Mississippi  River,  from  St.  Paul 
to  Prescott,  has  been  described.  {See 
pages  154-168.) 


Stillwater  (46  miles),  in  Wash- 
ington County,  upon  the  west  bank  of 
Lake  St.  Croix,  was  first  settled  in  1 843, 
and  is  rapidly  becoming  a populous  and 
important  place. 

Osceola  (70  miles),  a small  village, 
was  named  in  honor  of  a celebrated  Semi- 
nole chief. 

Lake  St.  Croix.,  an  expansion  of  the 
river,  36  miles  in  length,  which  opens  out 
shortly  after  leaving  the  Mississippi,  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water.  Steamers  run 
up  the  St,  Croix  Lake  and  River  to  the 
falls. 

The  St.  Croix  Falls,  or  Rapids,  are  in 
the  St.  Croix  River,  54  miles  from  its 
mouth.  The  St.  Croix  continues  the 
boundary-line  between  ‘Wisconsin  and 
Minnesota,  in  the  upper  half  of  the  State, 
formed  below  by  the  waters  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. The  falls  in  the  St.  Croix  have 
a descent  of  50  feet  in  300  yards.  The 
perpendicular  walls  of  trap-rock,  between 
which  the  waters  make  their  boisterous 
way,  present  a scene  of  remarkably  pic- 
turesque interest.  This  wild  pass  is 
about  half  a mile  below  the  Rapids.  It 
is  called  the  Dalles  of  the  St.  Croix. 


MISSOURI. 


Missouri  was  formerly  part  of  the  an- 
cient territory  of  Louisiana,  purchased 
by  the  United  States  from  France.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  of  the  United  States, 
being  285  miles  long,  and  nearly  280 
miles  wide,  and  embraces  an  area  of 
67,380  square  miles,  or  43,000,000  acres. 
It  was  the  first  State  formed  wholly  west 
of  the  Mississippi.  A settlement  called 
Fort  Orleans  was  made  within  its  limits 
by  the  French  in  1719.  The  oldest  town 
in  the  State,  St.  Genevieve,  was  founded 
in  1755.  St.  Louis  was  commenced  in 
1764.  The  State  was  visited  in  1811 
and  in  1812  by  a memorable  series  of 
earthquakes,  which  occurred  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  New  Madrid.  The  face  of 
the  country  was  greatly  altered  by  these 
events ; hills  entirely  disappeared,  lakes 
were  obliterated,  and  new  ones  formed. 
The  waters  of  the  Mississippi  River  were 
turned  back  with  such  accumulations, 


that  they  overran  the  levees  built  to  hem 
them  in,  and  inundated  whole  regions, 
leaving  them  in  their  present  marshy 
state. 

The  more  recent  history  of  Missouri 
has  been  eventful.  The  State  was  the 
scene  of  active  and  widely-extended  op- 
erations by  both  Federal  and  Confed- 
erate forces  during  the  war  of  1861-65. 
As  the  only  slaveholding  State  on  the 
western  border,  it  early  attracted  the 
attention  of  the  Government.  A conven- 
tion met  at  J efierson  City,  February  28, 
1861,  which  was  adjourned  to  meet  at 
St.  Louis,  March  4th,  following.  On  the 
16th  of  May,  1861,  a camp  of  instruction, 
located  in  the  western  suburbs  of  St. 
Louis,  and  known  as  “Camp  Jackson,” 
and  composed  of  State  militia  under  the 
command  of  General  Frost,  surrendered 
to  the  United  States  troops  under  Gen- 
eral Lyon.  In  marching  out  a riot  took 


Missouri.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Big  Trees  of  Missouri. 


place,  in  which  twenty-five  persons  were 
killed  and  wounded.  The  respective 
forces  in  the  State  in  November  of  that 
year  were  estimated  to  amount  to  42,000 
men,  27,000  of  whom  were  Eederals. 
The  State  was  the  scene  of  almost  con- 
tinuous invasion,  fighting,  “bushwhack- 
ing,” and  rioting,  during  1862-’63,  and 
indeed  until  nearly  the  close  of  the  war. 
In  October,  1864,  the  Confederates  un- 
der Price  were  routed  near  the  crossing  of 
the  Little  Osage  River,  and  either  taken 
prisoners  or  driven  out  of  the  State. 

The  surface  of  Missouri  is  in  many 
parts  level  or  but  slightly  undulating. 
A wide,  marshy  tract  occupies  an  area 
of  3,000  square  miles  in  the  southeastern 
part,  near  the  Mississippi.  In  other  sec- 
tions are  vast  reaches  of  prairie-lands, 
extending  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  climate  is  very  variable;  the  win- 
ters are  very  cold,  and  the  summer  very 
hot,  but  the  air  is  dry  and  pure.  In  the 
summer  the  climate  is  trying  to  persons 
in  delicate  health. 

The  soil  is  generally  good  and  of  great 
agricultural  capabilities.  The  most  fer- 
tile portions  are  the  river-bottoms.  The 
most  important  staple  of  Missouri  is  In- 
dian corn,  and  more  hemp  is  produced 
than  in  any  State  except  Kentucky.  To- 
bacco, flax,  and  all  the  varieties  of  grains, 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  grasses,  are  raised 
in  abundance,  the  soil  being  admirably 
adapted  to  their  successful  growth. 

Timber  is  very  plentiful,  the  river-bot- 
toms being  “ covered  with  a luxuriant 
growth  of  oak,  elm,  ash,  hickory,  cotton- 
wood, linn,  and  white  and  black  walnut. 
In  the  more  barren  districts  are  found 
v/hite  and  pin  oak,  and  sometimes  forests 
of  yellow  pine.  The  crab-apple,  papaw, 
and  persimmon,  are  abundant ; as  also 
the  hazel  and  pecan.” 

The  population  in  1860  was  1,182,012. 
By  the  census  of  1870  it  was  1,722,102. 
The  total  valuation  of  real  estate  and 
personal  property  is  given  by  the  late 
census  as  $552,728,032,  against  $266,- 
935,651  in  1860. 

Some  remarkable  caves  have  been  dis- 
covered of  late  years  in  Missouri.  One 
of  these  is  in  the  Ozark  Mountains,  Green 
County,  about  six  miles  from  Springfield. 

In  the  southwest  of  the  State  are  many 
other  caves. 

228 


The  Ozark  Mountains^  which  traverse 
the  State  of  Arkansas,  extend  through 
Missouri,  centrally,  from  north  to  soutli, 
in  the  form  of  elevated  table-lands.  The 
rich  alluvial  tracts  of  the  Mississippi  lie 
east  of  this  district,  and  westward  arc 
boundless  deserts  and  treeless  plains, 
sweeping  away  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  ranges.  Missouri  is  divided  into 
113  counties. 

Slig*  Trees  of  Missouri. — 

It  is  popularly  supposed  that  California 
has  the  biggest  trees  in  the  world ; but 
Prof.  Swallow,  of  the  Missouri  Geological 
Survey,  claims  the  distinction  for  his 
own  State.  He  gives  the  following  act- 
ual measurement  of  trees  in  Southwest 
Missouri : 

“ The  largest  is  a sycamore  in  Missis- 
sippi County,  66  feet  high,  which,  two  feet 
above  the  ground,  measures  43  feet  in 
circumference.  Another  sycamore,  in 
Howard  County,  is  38  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence. A cypress  in  Cape  Girardeau 
County,  at  a distance  of  one  foot  from 
the  ground,  measures  29  feet  in  circum- 
ference. A cotton-wood  in  Mississippi 
County  measures  30  feet  at  a distance  of 
six  feet  above  the  ground.  A pecan  in 
the  same  county  measures  18  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. A black  walnut  in  Benton 
County  is  26  feet  in  circumference.  A 
tulip-tree  (poplar)  in  Cape  Girardeau 
County  is  30  feet  in  circumference. 
There  is  a tupelo  in  Stoddard  County  30 
feet  in  circumference.  There  is  a hack- 
berry  in  Howard  County  11  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. A Spanish  oak  in  New 
Madrid  County  is  26  feet  in  circum- 
ference. A honey  locust  in  Howard 
County  is  13  feet  round.  There  is  a 
willow  in  Pemiscot  County  that  has 
grown  to  the  size  of  24  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  100  feet  in  height.  Missis- 
sippi County  boasts  of  a sassafras  that 
must  be  king  of  that  tribe;  it  measures 
nine  feet  in  circumference.  In  Pemiscot 
County  there  is  a dogwood  six  feet  in 
circumference.”  These  are  large  trees, 
but  the  reader  will  observe  that  they  are 
very  much  smaller  than  those  of  Califor- 
nia, one  of  which  is  107  feet  in  circum- 
ference. 

MINERALS,  ETC. 

The  State  is  remarkably  rich  in  iron- 
ore,  lead  and  copper  and  coal  mines,  and 


;PAcirjc 


East  12/5  from  Grccmrich 


1 br  r'ff 


X-VMP);^ 


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Minerals.] 


M- 


[Stations. 


in  nearly  all  the  mineral  I* 

possesses,  too,  a great  varietjKfJi^^ 
some  of  them  beautifully  vatPgMg^,'  and 
other  valuable  building-ston^’^P^/o^^ 
Knob  and  Iron  Mountain^  85  mil^i^^^ 
of  St.  Louis,  are  mineral  curiositiipi^|p 
worth  a visit.  - ^ ^ ; 

The  distribution  of  metals  all  over  tbe,^ 
State  will  be  seen  in  the  following  figifP^s 
Iron  in  forty-six  counties,  lead  in  f|Jtw 
three,  coal  in  thirty-six,  copper  in  twenty^ 
four,  marble  in  eleven,  zinc  in  twenty- 
seven,  fire-clay  in  sixteen,  barytes  in  ten. 
nickel  in  six,  granite  in  four,  tin  in  fot 
plumbago  in  two,  gypsum  in  two,  aln 
in  one,  antimony  in  four.  There 
probably  no  country  in  the  world  so  en- 
dowed as  this.  Of  iron  alone,  according 
to  the  State  Geologist’s  report  for  1855, 
there  is  ore  of  the  best  quality,  sufficient 
to  furnish  200,000,000  tuns  of  iron ; and 
this  quantity  lies  in  a small  space,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Pilot  Knob  and  Iron  Moun- 
tain, and  within  100  miles  of  St.  Louis. 
The  quality  of  the  iron  is  highly  spoken 
of  by  the  manufacturers,  and  the  capa- 
city of  the  smelting  appliances  has  reach- 
ed to  over  150,000  tons  per  annum.  The 
coal  is  well  suited  for  reduction  of  ores, 
either  by  hot  or  cold  blast  treatment. 
The  Scotia  Iron  Company  commenced 
operations  in  January,  1870;  and,  al- 
though the  materials  for  building  blastj^ 
furnaces  had  to  be  carried  80  miles  into 
a desert,  the  first  furnace  was  blown  into" 
blast  in  August,  1870.  This  furnace  will 
run  about  twenty-four  tuns  per  day.  The 
company  procures  ore  from  a hill,  near 
the  furnace,  in  which  there  is  an  ap- 
parently inexhaustible  supply  of  red  ox- 
ide and  brown  specular.  This  ore  yields 
60  per  cent,  of  pure  metal.  The  erection 
of  mills  for  making  wrought-iron  is  con- 
templated, and  the  high  quality  and  pro- 
digious quantity  of  the  raw  material  will 
justify  and  reward  any  outlay  of  capital 
in  this  direction. 

The  shipment  of  ore  to  other  States 
goes  on  constantly,  the  account  for 
1870  showing  that  246,555  tons  were 
dispersed  over  Indiana,  Ohio,  and  oth- 
ers. The  furnaces  at  Kingsland,  South 
St.  Louis,  Lewis  Iron  Company’s  Works, 
Carondelet,  and  Maramec,  are  all  well 
situated  as  to  coal  and  limestone,  the 
Maramec  Works  having  a most  valuable 


water-power.  These  latter  works  also 
ship  about  40,000  tuns  red  hematite-ore 
yearly.  , “ , 

^ KIVERS. 

\ TKe  ^issoiiri  is  fully  described 
fin  Lake  River  Tour,  No.  III. 

' TIae  J^llowstome,  one  of  the 
•principal  lnbu|aries  of  the  ^ssouri^  rises 
■in  the  saifib^  range  of  mountains  with  the 
main  stream.  ..'Jt  enters  from  the  south 
by  a mouth  850  yards  wide,  and  is  a broad 
and*  deep  river,^  having  a course  of  about 
600  mHes.  chapter  qn  Montana.) 

lie  another  fribUt^ry  of 

Tissour^  ^J^bs  in  the  same  range  of 
itains  W^h«t}ie  mr Jnt  stream,  and, 
.^^^red  by  its  j^ganderm  is  supposed 

WWf&  course  of  about  2,000  miles, 
b®foa^t  joins  that  river.  At  its  mouth 
fLd^^early  a mile  wide,  but  is  very 
shallow,  and 'is  not  navigable,  except  at 
its  highest  fipods.  (See  page  97.) 

TTSie  or  Kaw  River ^ is  a 

very  large^' tributary,  having  a course  of 
about  1,2Q0‘ iniles,  -and  fs 'navigable  for 
most  of  jjhe  distanced  {See  chapter  on 
Kansas.)' 

''IC’lie  €^a.g;c  is  a lajrge  and  important 
branch  of  the  Missouri‘;'-it  is  navigable 
for  200.  mries,’and  interlocks  with  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Arkansas. 

ITlae  .Osiscoiia,d.e,  navigable  for 
66  miles,''is  important  from  having  on  its 
banks  extensive  pine-forests,  from  which 
the  great  supply  of  plank  and  timber  of 
that  kind  is  brought  to  St.  Louis. 


k 


llOUTE  I. 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  KA2LSAS  CITY. 

Via  St.  Louis  S Kansas  City  Division  of 
North  Missouri  Railway. 

Stations. — St.  Louis  : Ferguson,  1 1 
miles;  Bridgeton,  15;  Brother  ton,  20; 
St.  Charles,  21 ; Dardenne,  30 ; O’Fal- 
lon, 34  ; Wentzville,  43 ; Millville,  49 ; 
Wright’s,  52;  Warrenton,  58;  Pendle- 
ton, 64;  Jonesburg,  68;  High  Hill,  73; 
New  Florence,  77 ; Montgomery,  83 ; 
Wells ville,  90  ; Martinsburg,  95  ; Mexico, 
109 ; Centralia  Junction  (connects  with 
Columbia  Branch),  122;  Sturgeon,  130; 
Renick,  140 ; Moberly  Junction  (connects 
with  Iowa  Division),  146 ; Huntsville, 
153;  Clifton,  160;  Salisbury,  167; 

229 


StatiOxVS.]  western  TOUR.  [Stations. 


Keytesvillc,  174 ; Dalton,  178  ; Bruns- 
wick (connects  with  Branch  to  Chilli- 
cothe),  186  ; Dewitt,  192;  Miami,  196; 
Carrollton,  209;  Norborne,  218;  Hardin, 
226  ; Junction  (connects  with  St.  Jo- 
seph Division),  232  ; Camden,  238 ; Or- 
rick,  243  ; Missouri  City,  262 ; Liberty 
Landing,  260 ; North  Missouri  Junction 
(Junction  of  Kansas  City  Branch  of  Han- 
nibal & St.  Joseph  Railway),  262;  Har- 
lem, 271  ; Kansas  City  (connects  with 
Kansas  Pacific  and  with  Missouri  River, 
Fort  Scott  & Gulf  Railways),  272. 

This  railway  traverses  an  exceedingly 
fertile  region,  which  it  has  been  the 
means  of  opening  to  settlement  and  de- 
velopment. At  Moberly  it  divides,  one 
branch  running  north  and  the  other  west. 
As  yet  there  are  but  few  places  of  im- 
portance on  either  line. 

M O UTJB  II. 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  OTTUMWA,  IOWA. 

Via  Iowa  Division  of  North  Missouri  Railway. 

Stations. — St.  Louis:  Moberly  Junc- 
tion (connects  with  Kansas  City  and  St. 
Joseph  Divisions),  146  miles  from  St. 
Louis;  Cairo,  162;  Jacksonville,  168; 
Macon  (connects  with  Hannibal  & St. 
Joseph  Railway),  168  ; Atlanta,  181 ; La 
Plata,  190 ; Millard,  197 ; Kirksville,  204 ; 
SubletPs,  212 ; Green  Top,  216 ; Queen 
City,  219  ; Glenwood,  227  ; Coatesville, 
236;  Moulton,  242;  Westgrove,  248; 
Bloomfield,  256  ; Ottumwa  (connects  with 
Des  Moines  Valley  and  Burlington  & Mis- 
souri River  Railways),  276. 

As  far  as  Moberly  Junction,  this  route 
is  the  same  as  Route  I.  of  Missouri. 

Macon  (169  miles).  i^Bee  page  86.) 

Ottumwa  (276  miles).  (Bee  p.  80.) 

MOUTE  III. 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  BELMONT. 

Via  St.  Louis  <&  Iron  Mountain  Railway. 

Stations. — St.  Louis  : Carondelet,  7 
miles  from  St.  Louis ; Sulphur  Springs, 
24 ; Bailey,  33 ; De  Soto,  43 ; Mineral 
Point  (connects  with  Branch,  4 miles 
long,  to  Potosi),  61  ; Potosi,  65  ; Bis- 
marck (Branch  to  Pilot  Knob  diverges), 
76;  Knob  Lick,  95;  Marquand,  118; 
Allenville,  147  ; Morley,  162  ; Charles- 
ton, 178  ; Belmont  (connects  by  ferry 

230 


with  Mobile  & Alabama  Railway  at  Co- 
lumbus), 196. 

This  line  of  railway  passes  through  a 
rieh  iron-region.  The  tourist  will  find  a 
great  variety  of  scenery,  and  much  to  in- 
terest him  in  a trip.  We  have  already 
spoken  (see  page  229)  of  the  vast  mineral 
wealth  of  the  country  traversed  by  this 
road. 

M O UTE  I V. 

FROM  ST.  LOUIS  TO  NEOSHO. 

Via  Atlantic  & Pacife  and  South  Pacific 
Railways. 

Stations. — St.  Louis : Pacific,  37  miles 
from  St.  Louis ; Catawissa,  42 ; Calvey, 
44 ; Moselle,  49  ; St.  Clair,  66  ; Staunton, 
66;  Sullivan,  71;  Bourbon,  78;  Lcas- 
burg,  83;  Cuba,  91;  Knobview,  98;  St. 
James,  104;  Dillon,  109;  Rolla,  114; 
York’s,  124;  Arlington,  126;  Jerome, 
127 ; Dixon,  138  ; Hancock,  144;  Crock- 
er, 160;  Woodend,  166;  Richland,  163; 
Stoutville,  171 ; Sleeper,  178 ; Lebanon 
(Junction  Laclede  & Fort  Scott  Rail- 
road, 110  miles),  185;  Brush  Creek,  194; 
Conway,  202 ; Niangua,  210 ; Marshfield, 
217 ; Bunker  Hill,  223  ; Strafford,  231  ; 
Springfield,  241 ; Dorchester,  247 ; Brook- 
line, 251 ; Plymouth,  261 ; Logan’s,  266  ; 
Aurora,  273 ; Verona,  278  ; Billings,  285 ; 
Pierce  City  (Van  Buren  Branch,  125 
miles),  291 ; Berwick,  296 ; Ritchieville, 
302  ; Granby  City,  307;  Neosho,  316. 

This  road,  generally  spoken  of  as  the 
Bouik  Pacific  Railway,  was  commenced  as 
the  Bouthwest  Branch  of  the  Missouri  Pa- 
cific Railway,  and  for  many  years  has  had 
to  contend  with  delays  and  disappoint- 
ments of  all  kinds.  It  is  now  in  a prosper- 
ous condition  and  rapidly  pushing  west- 
ward. For  the  most  part  it  traverses  a 
beautiful,  fertile,  and  salubrious  country. 


BO  UTE  V. 

LEXINGTON  TO  ST.  JOSEPH. 

Via  St.  Joseph  Division  of  North  Missouri 
Railway. 

Stations. — Lexington;  North  Lexing- 
ton, Junction  (connects  with  St.  Louis 
& Kansas  City  Division),  four  miles  from 
North  Lexington ; Richmond,  9 ; Vib- 
bard,  22  ; Lathrop  (connects  with  Came- 


Lexington.] 


MISSOURI. 


[Clinton. 


ron  Branch  of  Hannibal  & St.  Joseph 
Railway),  38;  Gower,  55;  St.  Joseph 
(connects  with  Kansas  City,  Sti  Joseph 
& Council  Bluifs  Railway),  76. 

This  short  road  is  one  of  the  two  hnks 
connecting  Sedalia  and  St.  Joseph,  and 
will  eventually  form  a portion  of  a hne 
of  road  running  diagonally  across  the 
State,  southeast  of  the  latter  of  these 
cities, 

lL«exiiig^oii9  of  which  North  Lex- 
ington is  the  station,  is  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Missouri  River.  It  is  the 
capital  of  Lafayette,  one  of  the  richest 
counties  in  the  State.  (For  description, 
see  page  176.) 

Ridunond.  (9  miles)  is  five  miles 
beyond  the  crossing  of  the  Western  Divi- 
sion of  this  road,  which  has  been  de- 
scribed as  Route  I.  of  Missouri.  Rich- 
mond, the  capital  of  Ray  County,  has  a 
population  of  between  2,000  and  3,000, 
and  is  considered  a place  of  some  impor- 
tance. 

5L<atlirop  (38  miles)  is  situated  on  a 
fertile  prairie,  admirably  suited  to  the 
cultivation  of  fruits.  It  is  the  crossing 
of  the  Cameron  Branch  of  the  Hannibal 
cfi  8t.  Joseph  Railway. 

St.  Josepli  (76  miles).  {See  page 

86.) 

MOUTE  VI. 

CAMERON  TO  KANSAS  CITY. 

Via  Cameron  & Kansas  City  Branch  of  Han- 
nibal & St.  Joseph  Railway, 

Stations. — Cameron,  172  miles  from 
Quincy,  Ilfinois;  Lathrop,  15  miles  from 
Cameron  (connects  with  St.  Joseph  Branch 
of  North  Missouri  Railway) ; Kearney,  29  ; 
Liberty,  39  ; Harlem,  51 ; Kansas  City 
(connects  with  railways  diverging),  53. 

This  road  was  completed  in  1857,  and 
as  yet  none  of  the  towns  along  its  hne 
have  attained  any  especial  prominence. 
For  20  miles  the  line  is  through  high, 
rolling  prairie-lands,  the  road  running  on 
the  west  side  of  Shoal  Creek,  The  rest 
of  the  line  is  through  a timbered  country. 

Ca.meroii.  (172  miles)  from  Quincy, 
Illinois,  has  been  described  in  Route  XVI. 
{See  page  86.) 

Sjatlfti*op(15  miles).  (/Seepage  231.) 

Harlem  (51  miles)  is  an  unimpor- 
tant village. 


Kansas  City  (53  miles)  has  been 
described  in  Route  XYI.  {See  page  89.) 


liOUTE  VII. 

ST.  JOSEPH  TO  HOPKINS, 

Via  Marysville  Brandi  of  Kansas  CUy^  St, 
Joseph  & Council  Bluffs  Railway. 

Stations. — St.  Joseph;  Savannah,  15 
miles  from  St.  Joseph ; Barnard,  31 ; 
Maryville,  45  ; Hopkins  (connects  with 
stage-hnes  to  Clarinda,  Bedford,  and 
places  in  Iowa),  61. 

St.  Josepli.  {See  page  86.) 

Savannaii  (15  miles)  is  the  capi- 
tal of  Andrew  County.  It  is  a smaU,  but 
a pleasant  and  prosperous  village. 

Hlary  ville  (45  miles),  the  capital  of 
Nodaway  County,  is  at  present  a very 
small  village ; but,  being  on  the  line  of  a 
proposed  road  from  Chilhcothe  to  Coun- 
cil Bluffs,  is  destined  to  become  a place 
of  some  importance. 

Hopkins  (61  miles)  is  only  of  im- 
portance as  being  the  point  of  departure 
for  several  stage-lines.  The  road  con- 
nects here  with  a branch  of  the  Burling- 
ton & Missouri  Railroad,  which  puts  it  in 
direct  communication  with  Chicago. 


EOUTE  VIII. 

SEDALIA,  MO,,  TO  FORT  SCOTT,  KAN- 
SAS. 

Via  Sedalia  Division  Missouri,  Kansas  & 
Texas  Railway. 

Stations. — Sedalia,  188  miles  from  St. 
Louis  (connects  with  Pacific  Railway  of 
Missouri);  Green  Ridge,  12;  Windsor, 
21;  Calhoun,  29;  Clinton,  40;  Montrose, 
53 ; Appleton  City,  59 ; Rockville,  67 ; 
Nevada,  90;  Fort  Scott  (connects  with 
Missouri  River,  Fort  Scott  & Gulf  Rail- 
way), 111. 

Sedalia,  Mo. 9 188  miles  from  St. 
Louis,  has  been  described  in  Route  XVII. 
{See  page  88.) 

Clinton9  Mo.  (40  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Henry  County,  called  the  “model 
town”  of  Western  Missouri,  is  an  enter- 
prising place,  having  a population  of 
about  3,500,  lying  in  the  heart  of  a fine 
agricultural  region. 

IVeTada9  Mo.  (90  miles),  the  capi- 
231 


Fort  Scott.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Kansas. 


tal  of  Vernon  County,  is  situated  in  an 
old  and  well-settled  portion  of  the  State. 
It  was  burned  to  the  ground  by  the  Con- 
federates during  the  war,  but  has  been 
rebuilt,  and  is  now  a handsome  village  of 
about  1,500  inhabitants. 

IPort  ^cott,  (Ill  miles), 

situated  upon  Marmiton  River ^ an  affluent 
of  the  Osage  River ^ is  the  capital  of  Bour- 
bon County.  It  was  originally  estab- 
lished as  a military  post,  in  1842,  and  is 
still  a great  depot  of  army  stores.  In 
1855  it  was  incorporated  as  a town,  and 
is  now  one  of  the  most  prosperous  places 
of  Southern  Kansas.  It  ranks  as  the 
fifth  city  of  the  State,  having  a popula- 
tion of  over  6,000,  and  a trade  that  many 
an  older  place  might  envy.  It  has  two 


KAN 

Kansas,  one  of  the  most  promising  of 
the  new  States  west  of  the  Mississippi,  is, 
in  length,  from  east  to  west,  about  420 
miles,  and  in  breadth,  from  north  to  south, 
200  miles.  It  lies  between  latitude  37° 
and  40°  north,  and  longitude  94°  40'  and 
102°  west  from  Greenwich.  The  area  is 
81,318  square  miles,  or  52,043,520  acres, 
being  considerably  greater  than  the  com- 
bined extent  of  Maine,  New  Hampshire, 
Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island, 
and  Connecticut.  It  is  bounded  eastward 
by  Missouri,  northward  by  Nebraska, west- 
ward by  Colorado,  and  southward  by  New 
Mexico  and  Indian  Territory.  It  was  or- 
ganized as  a Territory  May  29,  1854,  and 
admitted  as  a State  January  30,  1861. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  beautiful 
beyond  comparison.  The  prairies,  though 
broad  and  expansive,  stretching  away 
miles  in  many  places,  seem  never  lonely 
or  wearisome,  being  gently  undulating,  or 
more  abruptly  rolling ; and,  at  the  ascent 
of  each  new  roll  of  land,  the  traveller 
finds  himself  in  the  midst  of  new  loveli- 
ness. There  are  also  high  bluffs,  usually 
at  some  little  distance  from  the  rivers, 
running  through  the  entire  length  of  the 
country,  while  ravines  run  from  them  to 
the  rivers.  These  are,  at  some  points, 
quite  deep,  and  difficult  to  cross,  and,  to 
a traveller  unacquainted  with  the  coun- 
232 


daily  papers,  six  fine  churches,  a large 
woollen-mill,  two  banks,  a foimdery,  two 
flouring-mills,  hotels,  public  school  build- 
ings, and  many  other  things  that  go  to 
make  up  a healthy  inland  city.  There  is 
abundance  of  timber,  water,  and  coal  in 
the  vicinity,  and  the  farm-lands  adjoin- 
ing are  unsurpassed  in  fertility.  The 
neighborhood  of  Fort  Scott  was  the  scene 
of  many  thrilling  adventures  during  the 
early  history  of  Kansas,  when  the  Border 
Ruffian  troubles  commenced.  It  was  here 
that  Montgomery  gathered  his  men  to- 
gether preparatory  to  his  raid  into  Mis- 
souri in  1857.  Among  the  curiosities  of 
Fort  Scott  is  a well  of  fire,  where  the 
flames  mount  almost  as  high  as  a man’s 
head.  {See  Appendix.) 


S AS. 

try,  somewhat  vexatious,  especially  where 
the  prairie-grass  is  as  high  as  the  head 
of  a person  seated  in  a carriage.  There 
is  little  trouble,  however,  if  travellers 
keep  back  from  the  water-courses,  and 
near  the  high  lands.  These  ravines  are, 
in  many  instances,  pictures  of  beauty, 
with  tall,  graceful  trees,  cotton-wood, 
black  walnut,  hickory,  oak,  elm,  and  lin- 
wood,  standing  near,  while  springs  of 
pure  cold  water  gush  from  the  rock.  The 
bluffs  are  of  a kind  unknown  in  form 
and  appearance  in  any  other  portion  of 
the  West.  At  a little  distance,  a person 
can  scarcely  realize  that  Art  had  not  added 
her  finishing  touches  to  a work  which 
Nature  had  made  singularly  beautiful. 
Many  of  the  bluffs  appear  like  the  culti- 
vated grounds  about  fine  old  residences 
within  the  Eastern  States,  terrace  rising 
above  terrace  with  great  regularity ; while 
others  look  like  forts  in  the  distance. 
In  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  most  of 
the  timber  is  upon  the  rivers  and  creeks  ; 
though  there  are  in  some  places  most  de- 
lightful spots,  high  hills,  crowned  with  a 
heavy  growth  of  trees,  and  deep  vales, 
where  rippling  waters  gush  amid  a dense 
shade  of  flowering  shrubbery. 

Higher  than  the  bluffs  are  natural 
mounds,  which  also  have  about  them  the 
look  of  art.  They  rise  to  such  a height  as 


Climate.]  KANSAS.  [Kansas  Riter. 


to  be  seen  at  a great  distance,  and  add 
peculiar  beauty  to  the  whole  appearance 
of  the  country.  From  the  summit  of  these 
the  prospect  is  almost  unlimited  in  ex- 
tent, and  unrivalled  in  beauty.  The  prai- 
rie, for  miles,  with  its  gentle  undulations, 
uies  before  the  eye.  Rivers  glistening  in 
the  sunlight,  flow  on  between  banks 
crowned  with  tall  trees ; beyond  these, 
other  high  points  arise.  Trees  are  scat- 
tered here  and  there,  like  old  orchards, 
and  cattle  in  large  numbers  are  grazing 
upon  the  hill-side  and  in  the  valleys, 
giving  to  all  the  look  of  cultivation  and 
home-life.  It  is,  indeed,  difficult  to  re- 
alize that  for  thousands  of  years  this 
country  has  been  a waste,  uncultivated 
and  solitary,  and  that  but  a compara- 
tively short  time  has  elapsed  since  the 
white  settler  has  sought  here  for  a 
home. 

Climate. — Professor  Swallow,  in  his 
geological  report,  says  : “ The  climate  of 
Kansas  is  temperate  and  healthful.  As 
indicated  by  our  position,  and  clearly 
proved  by  a long  series  of  meteorological 
observations  at  our  military  posts,  the 
summers  are  long  and  temperate,  and  the 
winters  are  short,  mild,  and  dry,  varie- 
gated by  a few  cold  days.  But  few  coun- 
tries have  climates  better  adapted  to 
health,  and  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the 
staple  products  of  the  temperate  zone.” 
During  the  winter  season  of  1870  no  feed- 
ing of  stock  was  necessary,  the  thermome- 
ter varying  in  February  from  60°  to  75°, 
and  there  was  no  frost  in  the  ground. 
The  clear,  dry  atmosphere,  and  gentle, 
health-giving  breezes,  are  favorable  to 
out-door  pursuits  and  pleasures.  The 
peculiar  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  can 
hardly  be  imagined  by  a non-resident. 
For  miles  a person  can  clearly  distin- 
guish objects  which  at  the  same  distance 
in  other  parts  of  the  country  he  could 
not  see  at  all. 

Stocky  Fruity  etc. — Kansas  is  unsur- 
passed as  a grazing  region,  and  promises 
to  be  the  greatest  stock-raising  State  of 
the  West.  Fruit  can  be  easily  grown, 
and  can  be  sold  at  great  profit.  At  the 
National  Pomological  Congress,  held  at 
Philadelphia,  September  16,  1869,  the 
gold  medal  was  awarded  to  Kansas^  for 
the  best  fruit  in  the  Union.  The  princi- 
pal agricultural  productions  are  corn, 


wheat,  rye,  oats,  tobacco,  buckwheat, 
hemp,  and  cotton. 

Population. — The  increase  of  popula- 
tion in  Kansas  has  been  wonderful.  On 
its  first  enumeration  in  1860,  it  was  107,- 
206  ; in  1870  it  was  879,497,  an  increase 
of  nearly  236  per  cent. 

Educational.  — Besides  the  public 
schools,  Kansas  has  a State  University, 
an  Agricultural  College,  a State  Normal 
School,  a Blind  Asylum,  and  a Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum.  The  Methodist  Church 
have  the  Baker  University  ; the  Congre- 
gationalists,  Washburn  College;  the  TTni- 
ted  Brethren,  Lane  University ; the  Epis- 
copalians, a female  seminary ; the  New- 
School  Presbyterians,  Wetmore  Institute ; 
the  Baptists,  Ottawa  University;  the  Old- 
School  Presbyterians,  Highland  Univer- 
sity, and  the  Geneva  Institute.  The 
Christian  denomination  is  establishing  a 
college  at  Ottumwa.  The  Catholics  have 
two  colleges,  male  and  female,  at  Leaven- 
worth, both  large  institutions  ; they  also 
have  schools  at  St.  Mary’s  Mission,  at 
St.  Bridget,  and  at  the  Osage  Mission. 

Minerals. — Coal  and  salt  are  very  abun- 
dant, being  found  in  all  parts  of  the 
State,  and  almost  everywhere  are  inex- 
haustible supplies  of  rock,  principally 
sandstone  and  limestone.  In  the  west- 
ern portion  of  Kansas  there  are  rich 
quarries  of  the  beautiful  white  magnesia 
limestone.  Lead  is  found  in  the  south- 
eastern portion  of  the  State. 

EIYEES,  RAILWAYS,  ETC. 

The  most  important  rivers  in  the  State 
are  the  Kansas,  Republican,  Smoky  Hill, 
Neosho,  Arkansas,  Solomon,  Osage,  Big 
Blue,  Verdigris,  Great  Nehema,  Cotton- 
wood, Saline,  Stranger,  Grasshopper, 
Pottawatomie,  Marmaton,  Little  Arkan- 
sas, Wakarusa,  and  Cimeron,  all  of  which 
contain  a great  variety  of  fish.  The 
valleys  of  these  streams  are  very  rich. 

The  Kansas  ISiver,  sometimes 
called  the  “ Kaw,”  the  largest  stream  of 
this  region,,  excepting  the  Missouri,  which 
washes  its  northeastern  boundary,  is 
formed  by  the  Republican  and  the  Smoky 
Hill  Forks  which  rise  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  unite  their  waters  at  Fort 
Riley.  The  length  of  the  Kansas,  in- 
cluding its  branches,  is  nearly  1,000  miles. 
Its  course  is  through  a productive  valley 
233 


Arkansas  River.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Columbus. 


region  or  plain,  covered  with  forest-trees, 
and  varied  here  and  there  with  pictu- 
resque bluffs  and  hills.  The  Kansas 
River  is  a tributary  of  the  Missouri,  and 
steamboats  ascend,  in  good  stages  of 
water,  from  its  mouth,  120  miles  to  Fort 
Riley. 

''File  Arlcatnsas  ISiver  has 
nearly  half  its  course  within  the  borders 
of  Kansas. 

'Flhie  ©sag*e  ISivep  rises  south  of 
the  Kansas,  and  flows  eastward  nearly  500 
miles  to  the  Missouri,  which  it  enters  ten 
miles  below  Jefferson  City. 

It  is  doubtful  whether  any  State  in  the 
Union  has  shown  such  energy  and  enter- 
prise as  Kansas  in  the  construction  of 
railroads.  There  are  now  about  1,500 
miles  of  railway  in  operation,  penetrat- 
ing the  rich  agricultural  regions  in  every 
direction. 

MOUTB  I. 

KA2TSAS  CITY  TO  BAXTER  SPRINGS, 

Via  Missouri  River ^ Fort  Scott  & Gulf  Rail- 
way, 

Stations. — Kansas  City  (connects  with 
Santa  Fe  Division  of  Leavenworth,  Law- 
rence & Galveston  Railway) : Shawnee 
(connects  with  Sedalia  Division  Missouri, 
Kansas  & Texas  Railway), 9 miles ; Lenexa, 
14 ; Olathe,  21 ; Ocheltree,  28 ; Spring  Hill, 
29  ; Hillsdale,  35  ; Paola,  42 ; Fontana, 
53  ; Les  Cygnes,  61 ; Barnard,  67;  Pleas- 
anton, 73  ; Prescott,  81 ; Osaga,  85  ; Fort 
Scott  (connects  with  the  Sedalia  Division 
of  Missouri,  Kansas  & Texas  Railway), 
98;  Godfrey,  104;  Pawnee,  110;  Dry- 
wood,  116;  Girard,  124;  Limeston,  129; 
Cherokee,  135  ; Coalfield,  140;  Columbus, 
147 ; Neutral,  153;  Baxter,  159. 

Msinsas  City.  {See  page  89.) 

Olatlie  (21  miles),  the  capital  of 
Johnson  County,  is  in  the  midst  of  a 
thickly-settled  farming  country,  and  con- 
nects with  the  Santa  Fe  Division  of  the 
Leavenworth^  Lawrence  d?  Galveston  Rail- 
vmy.  It  is  a thriving  place,  with  a popu- 
lation of  about  3,000.  It  is  the  seat  of 
the  State  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum. 

IPnola.  (42  miles),  the  capital  of  Mi- 
ami County,  is  one  of  the  most  flourish- 
ing and  beautiful  towns  in  the  State.  The 
first  building  was  erected  in  1857,  and 
the  population  is  now  nearly  4,000.  Coal 
234 


and  timber,  the  latter  in  abundance,  arc 
found  in  the  vicinity.  Seven  miles  south- 
west of  this  place  is  Ossawatomie^  the  old 
home  of  John  Brown  (whose  soul  is  sup- 
posed to  be  still  “ marching  on  ” ),  and  the 
seat  of  the  State  Insane  Asylum. 

(53  miles)  is  a pretty  vil- 
lage in  Miami  County,  of  about  500  in- 
habitants. The  bcrgh  is  owned  and 
“ run  ’’  by  William  Toms,  an  Englishman. 
It  has  a newspaper  edited  by  Mr.  Vissher, 
for  many  years  amanuensis  to  the  late 
George  D.  Prentice. 

jCcs  Cyg'iaes  (61  miles)  is  a beau- 
tiful prairie  town,  of  about  600  inhabi- 
tants, situated  on  the  northern  border  of 
Linn  County.  The  land  on  which  the  place 
is  built  formerly  belonged  to  Indian  heirs. 
The  first  house  was  erected  in  the  fall  of 
1869.  The  country  in  the  neighborhood 
is  fertile  and  well-wooded.  Like  all  nev/- 
Kansas  towns,  Les  Cygnes  has  an  organ, 
in  the  way  of  a newspaper. 

£*lea.sa,ntoit  (73  miles),  another 
prosperous  town  in  Linn  County,  is  named 
after  General  Pleasanton,  who  at  this 
place  overtook  General  Price,  on  his  re- 
treat in  1864,  and  captured  many  prison- 
ers, among  whom  was  General  Marma- 
duke.  In  the  summer  of  1869  the  town 
site  was  a beautiful  field  of  waving  com. 
It  now  has  a population  of  1,000  inhabit- 
ants, has  been  voted  the  county-seat, 
publishes  a good  paper,  and  has  a brisk 
local  trade.  The  neighboring  mounds, 
hills,  and  woodlands  in  the  distance, 
render  the  locality  quite  picturesque. 
Coal  is  found  in  large  quantities  in  the 
vicinity. 

IPrescolt  (81  miles),  a new  town,  is 
the  centre  of  a region  with  rich  coal,  of 
which  large  quantities  are  shipped  to 
Kansas  City. 

(98  miles).  {See  page 

232.) 

(124  miles),  the  capital  of 
Crawford  County,  is  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a great  expanse  of  prairie,  on  which 
neither  leaf  nor  shrub  is  to  be  seen.  It  is 
almost  in  the  centre  of  the  Neutral  Lands, 
and  many  of  the  “ Leaguers  ” have  gone 
into  business  there.  It  has  a newspaper. 
The  population  is  about  600. 

Coiunil>iis  (147  miles)  is  a promis- 
ing young  town  of  about  800  inhabitants. 
The  portion  of  the  Neutral  Lands  in 


Baxter  Springs.] 


KANSAS. 


[Garnett 


which  it  is  situated  is  well  adapted  for 
agricultural  purposes. 

ISaxter  Spring's  (159  miles), 
the  present  terminus  of  the  road,  and  the 
‘Capital  of  Cherokee  County,  is  pleasantly 
^situated,  and  well  supplied  with  timber 
and  water.  It  is  just  north  of  the  line 
of  the  rich  Cherokee  country,  which  it  is 
to  be  hoped  that  a railway  to  Texas  will 
soon  open  to  civilization.  The  resi- 
dent population  is  about  1,000.  Baxter 
Springs  is  a great  shipping-point  for 
Texas  cattle,  and  during  the  season  is 
crowded  with  drovers.  A daily  coach 
leaves  this  point  for  Fort  Gibson,  and 
connects  with  the  lines  which  run  to 
Texas. 


BOUTE  II. 

KANSAS  CITY  TO  ATCHISON  AND 
WATEBYILLE. 

Via  Kansas  City^  St.  Joseph  <&  Council  Bluffs 
Bailway  and  Central  Branch  of  Union  Pa- 
cijic  Bailway. 

Stations  on  Kansas  City,  St.  Joseph 
& Council  Bluffs  Railway.  — Kansas 
City : Harlem,  1 mile  from  Kansas  City ; 
Parkville,  10 ; East  Leavenworth  (con- 
nects with  Leavenworth  Branch  of  Kan- 
sas Pacific  Railway),  25 ; Beverly,  80 ; 
Weston,  33;  Winthrop  (connects  with 
ferry  for  Atchison,  connecting  there  with 
Central  Branch  of  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
way), 50. 

Stations  on  Central  Branch  of 
Union  Pacific  Railway. — Atchison,  51 
miles  from  Kansas  City;  Farmington,  13 
miles  from  Atchison;  Monrovia,  15;  Ef- 
fingham, 18;  Muscotah,  25;  Whiting, 
31 ; Netawaka,  37 ; Wetmore,  42 ; Sher- 
man, 49  ; Corning,  56  ; Centralia,  62 ; 
Vermilion,  70  ; Frankfort,  79  ; Barrett’s, 
82;  Elizabeth,  85;  Irving,  90;  Blue 
Rapids,  95 ; Waterville,  100. 

City,  Mo.  (/See  page 

89.) 

S®arl£ville,  Mo.  (10  miles),  is 
upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Alissouri 
River.  It  was  founded  in  1844,  and  is 
chiefly  built  of  limestone,  there  being 
fine  quarries  in  the  neighborhood. 

East  Eeaveawortli,  Mo.  (25 
miles),  is  a small  place  connecting  by 
ferry  with  the  Leavenworth  Branch  of  the 
Kansas  Pacific  Railway. 


W’estoa,  Mo.  (33  miles),  pictu- 
resquely situated  upon  the  Missouri 
River.,  was  at  one  time  a favorite  start- 
ing-point with  emigrants  for  California. 
It  is  a prosperous  incorporated  city.  At 
Wiiitlirop,  Mo.  (50  miles),  pas- 
sengers for  Atchison  cross  the  river  by 
ferry,  which  connects  with  the  Central 
Branch  of  the  Union  Pacific  Raihvay. 


nOUTE  III. 

LEA  VENWOBTE  TO  PARKER. 

Via  Leavenworth  & Lawre/me  Branch  of  Kan- 
sas Pacific  Railway,  and  Leawenworth^  Law- 
rence & Galveston  Railway. 

Stations  on  Leavenworth  & Law- 
rence Branch  of  Kansas  Pacific  Rail- 
way.— Leavenworth : Leavenworth  Junc- 
tion, 4 miles  ; Fairmount,  10  ; Big  Stran- 
ger, 16  ; Reno,  26  ; Leavenworth  & Law- 
rence Junction  (connects  with  Kansas 
Pacific  Railway),  32 ; Lawrence  (con- 
nects with  Leavenworth,  Lawrence  & 
Galveston  Railway),  34. 

Stations  on  Leavenworth,  Lawrence 
& Galveston  Railway.  — Lawrence  : 
Sibley,  6 miles ; Vinland,  9 ; Baldwin 
City,  14 ; Prairie  City,  16 ; Norwood,  20 ; 
Kansas  City  & Santa  Fe  Junction,  25  ; 
Ottawa  (connects  with  Kansas  City  & 
Santa  Fe  Division),  27  miles  from  Leaven- 
worth; Princeton,  35;  Richmond,  41; 
Garnett,  51;  Welda,  59;  Divide,  67; 
Carlyle,  73;  lola,  78;  Humboldt  (con- 
nects with  Missouri,  Kansas  & Texas 
Railway),  86 ; Neosho,  91 ; Tioga  and 
Chicago,  94 ; Earleton,  101 ; Thayer, 
108 ; Cherryvale,  124 ; Parker,  144, 

Eawrence.  {See  page  90.) 

Ottawa  (27  miles),  the  capital  of 
Franklin  County,  is  the  largest  and  most 
flourishing  town  on  this  line  of  road.  It 
is  situated  on  the  Marais  des  Cygnes 
River on  a fine  prairie  eminence,  with 
plenty  of  woodland  in  the  neighborhood. 
A suspension-bridge,  the  only  one  in  the 
State,  spans  the  river  at  this  point.  The 
Ottawa  University  is  located  here,  upon  a 
square  mile  of  highly-cultivated  land. 
The  first  house  was  put  up  in  1864,  and 
the  population  is  now  about  3,500.  Otta- 
wa is  the  present  terminus  of  the  Kansas 
City  dh  Santa  K'e  Railway. 

Oarnett,  Kas.  (51  miles),  the 
capital  of  Anderson  County,  and  a grow- 
235 


lOLA.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Neosho  Falls. 


ing,  busy  place,  of  about  2,500  inhabi- 
tants, is  situated  on  a rolling  prairie,  in 
an  excellent  country  that  is  rapidly  till- 
ing up. 

Sola  (78  miles)  is  a pleasant  town 
of  about  1,000  inhabitants,  situated  in 
the  midst  of  a tine  agricultural  region. 

lSa3iil>old.t  (88  miles),  the  capital 
of  Allen  County,  and  a bustling  little 
town,  connects  with  the  Leavenworth^ 
Lawrence  <Sc  Galveston^  and  Missouri^  Kan- 
SOS  (b  Texas  Railways^  the  one  coming  in 
on  the  west  and  the  other  on  the  east. 
There  is  a U.  S.  land-office  at  this  place. 
The  population  of  Humboldt  is  about 
3,000.  The  lands  in  the  neighborhood 
are  remarkably  fertile. 

(108  miles)  is  a prosperous 
little  place,  and 

S^arlccip  (144  miles)  is  the  present 
terminus  of  the  road. 


MOUTE  IV. 

TOPEKA  TO  EMPORIA. 

Via  Atchison^  Topeka  & Sa/nta  Fe  Railway. 

Stations. — North  Topeka:  Topeka,  1 
mile  from  North  Topeka ; Challcnders, 
6 ; Cottonwood  Grove,  9 ; Wakarusa,  13  ; 
Carbondale,  18 ; Gables,  22 ; Burlingame, 
27 ; Peterton,  31 ; Osage  City,  35  ; Arvo- 
nia,  42;  Reading,  46;  Horton,  54;  Em- 
poria (connects  with  Missouri,  Kansas  & 
Texas  Railway),  61 ; Cottonwood,  136 ; 
Florence,  156;  Newton,  185;  Wichita, 
212;  Dodge  City,  352;  Sargent,  467. 

Nortli  Topclta,  67  miles  ffom 
Kansas  City,  is  the  point  at  which  the 
road  connects  with  the  Kansas  Pacific 
Railway. 

Topelca  (I  mile).  {See  page  90.) 

ISurliBig’ame  (27  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Osage  County,  is  a pretty  and 
rapidly-improving  town.  It  has  a popu- 
lation of  about  800.  Coal  is  plentiful  in 
the  neighborhood. 

Sln&poria  (61  miles),  the  capital  of 
Lyon  County,  is  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant places  in  Southern  Kansas,  and  is 
the  scat  of  the  State  Normal  School.  It 
connects  here  with  the  Missouri^  Kansas  <£? 
TexcLS  Railway.  The  population  is  about 
4,000.  It  has  two  papers — one  a daily. 
Emporia  has  been  settled  about  twelve 
years,  and  its  fine  buildings  and  wide 
236 


streets  make  it  particularly  attractive  to 
the  stranger.  The  road  is  now  com- 
pleted upward  of  400  miles  west  of 
Emporia,  traversing  a rich  but  rather 
monotonous  range  of  country.  Sargent, 
the  present  terminus,  is  an  unimportant 
town. 


MOUTE  V. 

JUNOTIOK  CITY  TO  CIIETOPA. 

Via  Keosho  Pivision  of  the  Missouri^  Kansas 
& Texas  Railway. 

Stations. — Junction  City : Skiddy,  13 
miles;  Parker’s,  25;  Council  Grove,  37; 
Rock  Creek,  45  ; Americus,  52 ; Emporia 
(connects  with  Atchison,  Topeka  & San- 
ta Fe  Railway),  61 ; Neosho  Rapids,  69  ; 
Hartford,  74 ; Ottumwa,  82 ; Burlington, 
89 ; Leroy,  103  ; Neosho  Falls,  107 ; 
Humboldt  (connects  with  Leavenworth, 
Lawrence  & Galveston  Railway),  122 ; 
New  Chicago,  132;  Ladore,  152;  Day- 
ton,  161;  Oswego,  171;  Chetopa,  180. 

JTiisACtioiA  City,  Kas.  (138  miles 
from  Kansas  City).  {See  page  91.) 

Council  Orove  (37  miles),  an  old 
town,  the  county-seat  of  Morris  County, 
is  situated  on  the  headwaters  of  the 
N eosho,  surrounded  by  a good  agricul- 
tural district.  In  1848,  population  about 
800. 

Elmporia  (61  miles  from  Junction 
City).  {See  page  236.) 

iOiirling'ton  (89  miles),  the  capi- 
tal of  Coffey  County,  is  a handsome  and 
flourishing  little  place,  of  about  1,500  in- 
habitants, upon  the  banks  of  the  Neosho 
River,  whence  it  derives  the  finest  water- 
power in  the  State.  It  is  expected  that 
the  town  will  be  one  of  the  stations  on 
the  Kansas  City  dh  Santa  Fe  Railway^  a 
line  now  completed  as  far  as  Ottawa,  the 
capital  of  Franklin  County.  The  coun- 
try in  the  neighborhood  of  Burlington  is 
well  settled. 

KiCroy  (103  miles)  is  a pretty  village 
of  about  1,000  inhabitants.  The  country 
around  is  pleasingly  diversified  by  prairie, 
woodland,  and  stream,  and  the  many 
farm-houses,  which  meet  the  eye  in  all 
directions,  give  it  a homelike  appearance. 

NeosHo  Calls  (107  miles),  the 
capital  of  Woodson  County,  is  named 
after  a water-fall  in  the  locality.  Tho 


New  Chicago.] 


NEBRASKA. 


[Nebhaski, 


scenery  in  the  neighborhood  is  wild  and 
picturesque,  and  the  country  well  settled. 
. {122  miles)  has  been 

described  in  Route  III.  of  Kansas. 

New  CBaicago  (132  miles)  is  a 
thriving  town  at  the  junction  of  the  Mis- 
souri^ Kansas  & Texas  Railway  with  the 
Leavenworth^  Lawrence  <&  Galveston  Rail- 
way, 

C^swego  (I'Tl  miles),  the  capital  of 
Labette  County,  is  a prosperous  place, 
of  about  1,200  population.  It  is  situated 
on  high  prairie-land  in  a sparsely-settled 
region. 

Clietopa  (180  miles),  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Neosho,  is  a pretty  and 


rapidly-growing  place,  of  about  1,500 
inhabitants.  The  country  around  is  be- 
coming well  settled. 

MOUTE  VI. 

KANSAS  CITY  TO  OTTAWA. 

Stations. — Kansas  City  : Olathe,  21 
miles ; Gardner,  29 ; Edgerton,  35 ; 
Wellsville,  40;  Le  Loup,  45;  Kansas 
City  & Santa  Fe  Junction,  51  ; Ottawa, 
53. 

Olathe  (21  miles)  has  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  I.  of  Kansas. 

Ottawa  (53  miles)  has  been  de- 
scribed in  Route  III.  of  Kansas. 


NEBRASKA. 


Nebraska  lies  between  40°  and  43° 
north  latitude,  and  embraces  an  area  of 
76,000  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  south  by  Kansas,  on  the  east  by  the 
Missouri  River,  on  the  north  by  Dakota, 
and  on  the  west  by  the  Territory  of 
Wyoming. 

The  history  of  this  young  State  may  be 
thus  briefly  stated : Up  to  1712  Nebraska 
formed  a part  of  the  great  grant  of  the 
Mississippi  Valley  to  Crozart,  and  was 
part  of  the  territory  included  in  Law’s 
Mississippi  scheme.  As  a portion  of  the 
Louisiana  purchase  it  came  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  United  States  in  1803.  The 
first  explorers  of  the  territory,  of  whom 
we  have  any  authentic  account,  were 
Lewis  and  Clark,  who,  after  wintering  at 
Fort  Mandan  (1 804-’5),  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains  to  Oregon.  In  1854  the  famous 
Nebraska  Bill,  repealing  the  Missouri 
Compromise,  and  limiting  the  extension 
of  slavery,  was  passed ; and  on  May  30th, 
of  the  same  year,  the  Territory  was  or- 
ganized. It  was,  after  much  discussion, 
admitted  as  a State,  January,  1867.  The 
adjoining  Territory  of  Dakota  was  formed 
out  of  Nebraska  in  1861. 

In  Nebraska  there  are  no  mountain 
districts,  and  little  rough  or  broken  land. 
The  surface  is  one  of  regular  undulation, 
rising  gradually  as  it  extends  westward 
from  the  Missouri  River.  The  Missouri 

at  low  water — at  the  southern  bound- 


ary, is  about  780  feet  above  the  sea ; at 
the  northeastern  angle,  at  Sioux  City, 
1,065  feet;  at  the  mouth  of  the  Platte, 
920  feet;  Lincoln,  the  capital,  is  1,622 
feet ; Fort  Kearney,  2,225  feet.  At  the 
western  boundary  the  Platte  is  about 
4,270  feet  above  the  sea. 

Along  the  Missouri  the  bluffs  rise  with 
some  abruptness  to  the  height  of  fifty  to 
one  hundred  feet.  From  their  tops  the 
prairie  extends  westward  in  long  swells, 
seldom  so  broken  as  to  interfere  with 
cultivation.  The  country  becomes  less 
and  less  rolling  as  it  recedes  from  the 
river,  and  at  a distance  of  100  to  150 
miles  from  it  the  uplands  spread  out 
into  wide,  flat  prairies,  varied  only  by 
the  valleys  and  strips  of  bottom-lands 
bordering  the  larger  streams.  Along  the 
Missouri,  the  bluffs  are  at  most  points 
easily  passed  by  the  wagon,  while  along 
the  interior  streams  they  are  of  less 
height  and  of  gentle  ascent.  The  nu- 
merous streams  throughout  the  State  are 
bordered  by  wide  and  fertile  strips  of 
bottom-land,  which  they  traverse  in  deep- 
cut  channels,  seldom,  and  only  at  long  in- 
tervals, overflowing. 

The  surface  is  in  general  free  from 
bowlders,  but  they  are,  however,  found  at 
a few  points  in  the  sharp  “ breaks,”  or 
ridges,  about  the  heads  of  the  streams. 
A well-defined  line  of  quarries  and  gran- 
ite, gravel  and  bowlders,  is  found  along 
237  • 


Platte  River.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Republican  River. 


the  general  course  of  the  Blue  River, 
stretching  as  far  to  the  northwest,  be- 
yond the  Platte,  as  the  country  has  been 
explored. 

The  climate  of  Nebraska  is  not  sur- 
passed in  the  latitude  in  which  it  lies.  It 
is  dry  and  health-giving.  The  winter  is 
short,  mild,  and  open,  the  sun  seldom 
clouded,  very  little  rain  or  snow  falls,  and 
the  latter  rarely  remains  on  the  ground 
but  a few  days. 

The  soil  is  a vegetable  mould  charged 
with  lime,  and  is  from  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  in  depth — accumulated  from  the 
decayed  vegetation  of  centuries.  It  is  a 
light,  rich  soil,  black  and  loamy,  but 
never  clammy  or  lumpy,  and  more  resem- 
bles a compost  of  artificially  - prepared 
garden-mould  than  a wild  and  virgin  soil 
of  Nature’s  own  compounding.  It  rests 
upon  a subsoil  of  porous,  yellowish  clay, 
which  has  the  property  of  receiving  and 
holding  water  like  a sponge. 

By  climate  and  soil  Nebraska  is  well 
adapted  to  the  culture  of  the  cereals,  the 
growth  of  root-crops,  or  the  raising  of 
stock.  In  the  production  of  small  grains 
it  especially  excels.  As  shown  by  the 
Report  of  the  Commissioner  of  Agricul- 
ture, the  average  yield  of  wheat  is 
bushels  per  acre. 

The  'population  of  Nebraska  in  1870 
was  123,000  ; the  total  valuation  of  real 
estate  and  personal  property  in  the  State 
is  given  by  the  census  as  $55,719,432, 
against  $7,426,949  in  1860. 

EIVERS. 

TTlie  Missouri.  {Bee  Lake  and 
River  Tour,  No.  III.) 

TTlie  IPlatte  flows  entirely  across 
the  State  from  west  to  east,  dividing  it 
into  two  nearly  equal  parts.  The  valley 
of  the  Platte  is  traversed  through  its 
whole  extent  by  the  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
way. To  the  distance  of  100  miles  from 
the  Missouri,  the  public  lands  are  all 
taken  up.  The  principal  tributaries  from 
the  north  are  the  Loupe  Fork^  the  valley 
of  which  is  not  yet  open  to  settlement, 
and  the  Elkhorn,  The  latter  stream 
rises  in  the  northern  part  of  the  State, 
and  flows  southeasterly  for  100  miles, 
through  a valley  well  timbered,  and  wa- 
tered by  many  tributary  streams.  The 
Elkhorn  empties  into  the  Platte  about  60 
238 


miles  above  its  mouth.  A railroad  is 
now  being  opened  through  this  valley, 
10  miles  of  which,  northward  from  Fre- 
mont, are  now  completed. 

The  principal  tributary  from  the  south 
is  the  Balt^  which  rises  in  the  southwest- 
ern part  of  Lancaster  County,  and,  flow- 
ing through  a very  fertile  valley,  passes 
the  Great  Salt  Basin  and  the  State  capi- 
tal, and  falls  into  the  Platte  about  30 
miles  above  its  mouth.  The  Salt  receives 
many  tributary  streams  which  water  fer- 
tile valleys.  The  valley  of  the  Salt  is 
rapidly  settling  up,  and  is  destined  to  be 
one  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  populous 
portions  of  the  State. 

Tlie  EEau  qui  Courts 

or  swift-running  water,  forms  a part  of 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  State.  The 
valley  is  the  smallest  and  least  known  of 
the  three  principal  divisions  named ; only 
a small  portion  of  it  is  open  to  settlement. 

Tlie  Mepu.1>lica]i,  after  the 
Platte,  is  the  largest  stream  in  the  State. 
It  flows  through  the  southwestern  coun- 
ties, into  Kansas,  about  140  miles  west  of 
the  Missouri.  The  upper  part  of  the 
Republican  Valley  is  not  yet  fully  sur- 
veyed and  open  to  settlement.  In  both 
Kansas  and  Nebraska  settlements  have 
extended  westward  upon  other  streams 
farther  than  upon  the  Republican. 

The  Big  Blue  and  the  Little  Blue  are 
streams  of  some  importance,  watering 
what  is  considered  by  many  the  most 
beautiful  portion  of  the  State.  They  rise 
in  the  central  part  of  Nebraska,  near  the 
Platte,  and  flow  southeasterly,  uniting  in 
Kansas.  Other  rivers  worthy  of  mention 
are  the  Great  JTehema  and  the  Little 
Lfehema, 

EAILWAYS. 

7he  Union  Pacific  Railway^  which 
traverses  the  State,  is  fully  described  in 
Through  Route  XVIII. 

The  following  roads  are  constructing : 

The  Omaha  <Sc  N'orthwestern  (from 
Omaha  to  West  Point,  thence  up  the 
Elkhorn  to  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara) 
looks  to  an  extension  and  junction  with 
the  Northern  Pacific,  to  bringing  the 
trade  of  the  Elkhorn  Valley  and  a share 
of  the  trade  of  Montana  and  the  North- 
western Territories  to  Omaha,  where  it 
properly  belongs. 


Railways.] 


NEBRASKA. 


[Blair. 


The  Mkhoi'n  Valley  Railway  (from 
.Fremont  on  the  Union  Pacific,  up  the 
#Elkhom  to  the  mouth  of  the  Niobrara) 
opens  to  market  the  lovely  valley  of  the 
Elkhorn.  A southern  extension  of  this 
road  to  Lincoln  is  contemplated. 

The  Burlington  Missouri  Railway 
in  Nebraska  (from  Plattsmouth  by  Lin- 
coln to  a junction  with  the  Union  Pacific, 
near  Fort  Kearney)  is  finished  to  Fort 
Kearney,  where  a junction  is  made  with 
the  Pacific  Railroad.  From  Plattsmouth 
its  connections  are  east,  north,  and  south, 
over  the  roads  centring  there. 

The  Midland  Pacific^  from  Nebraska 
City  through  Lincoln,  to  a junction  with 
the  Union  Pacific  road  near  Fort  Kear- 
ney, or  over  a more  southerly  line  to 
Denver.  Its  connection  at  Nebraska 
City  is  over  the  St.  Joseph  & Council 
Bluffs,  or  the  Burlington  & Missouri. 
The  State  Line  road,  now  being  built 
across  the  State  of  Iowa,  will  be  its  prin- 
cipal connection  east  when  finished.  This 
is  a link  in  the  transcontinental  line  of 
road  now  being  developed  under  the  in- 
fluence of  the  Pennsylvania  Central  Rail- 
way. Another  important  connection  will 
be  the  Clinton  & Nebraska  City  Railway, 
now  being  pushed  forward  from  Clinton, 
Iowa. 


n O UTE  I. 

OMAHA  TO  LINCOLH. 

Via  Omaha  S Southwestern  and  Burlington 
&,  Missouri  BaiVways. 

Stations. — Omaha : La  Platte,  16  miles ; 
Omaha  Junction  (connects  by  ferry  with 
Burlington  & Missouri  Railway  in  Ne- 
braska, over  which  trains  run  to  Lin- 
coln), 21 ; Lincoln,  67. 

Omalia,  «fuuctioiB.  (21  miles). 
(Bee  page  95.) 

Suiincoln.  (67  miles),  the  capital  of 
the  State^  is  a handsome  place,  centrally 
located  in  the  beautiful  county  of  Lan- 
caster. Three  years  ago,  where  the 
town  stands,  there  were  but  three  small 
houses,  and  the  country  for  many  miles 
around  was  little  else  than  a vast  Indian 
hunting-ground.  Now  every  foot  of 
available  government  land  in  the  county 
is  taken,  and  is  being  rapidly  improved. 
The  population  in  1871  was  about  3,000, 
having  doubled  in  one  year.  Besides 


the  State-House^  a handsome  edifice  of 
white  limestone  now  building  at  a cost  of 
$100,000,  there  are  located  in  this  place 
most  of  the  State  institutions,  among 
whith  are  the  Stale  University  and  Agri- 
cultural College^  a fine  brick  building,  to 
cost  $152,000,  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane, 
and  the  Penitentiary.  Lincoln  promises 
to  be  an  important  railroad  centre.  One 
railway  from  Plattsmouth,  on  the  Mis- 
souri, through  this  city,  is  finished  to 
Fort  Kearney  on  the  Union  Pacific  Rail- 
road, across  the  continent.  Another, 
from  Nebraska  City  to  Denver,  is  pro- 
gressing, and  wfiU  lay  its  iron  to  Lincoln 
in  a short  time. 


JR  O UTE  II. 

BULO  TO  PAWNEE  CITY, 

Via  Burlington^  Mulo  Southwestern  Bail- 
way, 

This  road  is  projected  to  run  across 
the  southern  counties  to  Denver.  The 
route  beyond  Pawnee  City  is  not  fully 
determined.  It  will  probably  go  to  Bea- 
trice, and  thence,  perhaps,  up  the  Re- 
publican River.  This  part  of  the  State 
is  in  great  need  of  a railway. 

WLvlIo  is  an  active  town  on  the  Mis- 
souri River. 

IPawnee  City,  the  capital  of 
Pawnee  County,  is  well  located,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  coal  and  good  water- 
power, and  plenty  of  timber. 

MOUTE  III. 

FBEMONT  TO  BLAIB, 

Via  Fremont  & Blair  Bailway, 

This  road  is  a cut-off  from  the  Chicago 
& Northwestern  at  Blair  to  the  Union 
Pacific  at  Fremont. 

F’renioiit,  a promising  town  of 
about  4,000  inhabitants,  is  the  outlet  of 
trade  for  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Elk- 
horn.  It  is  at  the  junction  with  the 
Union  Pacific  and  the  Elkhorn  Valley 
Railways.  (See  page  97.) 

ISlaiir  (25  miles)  is  an  active  town 
on  the  Missouri  River. 


City,  the  second  town 
of  the  State,  is  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Missouri,  86  miles  south  of  Omaha  by 
239 


Nebraska  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Dakota. 


river.  It  is  prettily  situated  on  rising 
ground,  and  commands  some  fine  views. 
Before  the  building  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway  it  was  the  principal  starting- 
point  of  the  overland  travel  and  freight- 
ing business.  Prom  the  loss  of  this 
trade  Nebraska  City  suffered  severely, 
but  the  agricultural  development  of  the 
surrounding  country  and  the  railway 
interests  here  centring  have  recently 
caused  a revival,  and  healthy  and  rapid 
growth  of  the  town.  A low  estimate  of 
its  present  population  is  8,000.  The 
city  is  the  seat  of  the  Episcopal  bishop 
of  the  diocese,  and  contains  fine  church- 
es, school-houses,  and  public  buildings. 
It  is  the  starting-point  of  the  Midland 
Pacific  Railway  to  Fort  Kearney,  which 
is  one  of  the  short-line  Pacific  connec- 
tions now  being  developed  under  the 
control  and  influence  of  the  Pennsylvania 
Central  Railway  Co.  The  Nebraska  City 
db  Southwestern^  and  the  Nebraska  City  & 
Northwestern^  are  now  projected  by  its 
business  enterprise,  and  will  be  built  to 
open,  develop,  and  make  tributary  the 
interior  of  the  State.  The  Burlington  & 
Missouri  River  Railway^  in  Iowa,  has 
completed  a branch  from  Red  Oak  to 
this  place.  The  Iowa  State  Line,  and  the 
Clinton  (Iowa)  & Nebraska  City,  are  now 
being  built,  and  will  soon  be  completed. 
(See  page  178.) 


DAK 

Dakota  was  organized  as  a Territory 
Mareh  2, 1861.  It  is  situated  directly  west 
of  Minnesota  and  on  the  northwestern  part 
of  Iowa.  It  has  absorbed  much  of  the 
western  part  of  the  old  Territory  of  Min- 
nesota, and  of  the  eastern  part  of  Ne- 
braska. Its  length  from  east  to  west  is 
about  750  miles,  and  its  area  152,000 
square  miles.  The  western  part  of  the 
Territory  is  very  mountainous.  The 
Rocky  Mountain  range  extends  along  the 
western  boundary.  The  Black  Hills, 
which  belong  to  the  Rocky  Mountain 
range,  traverse  the  more  central  and 
southern  portion.  Fremont’s  Peak  and 
Tiaramie  Peak  belong  to  this  range.  The 
principal  rivers  are  the  Missouri,  the  Red 
240 


the  capital  of  Cass 
County,  is  on  the  Missouri,  1^  mile  be- 
low the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  and  38 
miles,  by  water,  south  of  Omaha.  It 
has  a good  landing,  and  a population  of 
about  3,000.  The  Burlington  6o  Missouri 
Railway  crosses  the  Missouri  at  this 
place.  A railroad  bridge  is  to  be  built 
across  the  river. 

City,  on  the  Great  Nehema, 
and  on  the  line  of  the  Burlington,  South- 
ern, Nehema  Valley  & Loup  Fork  Rail- 
ways, is  a thriving  young  city  of  about 
1,000  population.  It  is  in  the  centre  of 
an  unsurpassed  agricultural  region,  well 
supplied  with  timber,  coal,  and  good 
water-power. 

Beatrice,  an  interior  town,  on  the 
Little  Blue  River,  promises  to  be  a place 
of  some  importance,  being  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a fertile  farming  region,  where 
there  is  abundance  of  excellent  building- 
stone,  fine  magnesian  limestone,  and  very 
good  water-power.  It  is  on  the  line  of 
the  Burlin^on  & Missouri  Railway  in 
Nebraska. 

AslilandL  (30  miles  from  Platts- 
mouth)  is  a prosperous  town,  of  about 
1,000  population,  surrounded  by  a rich 
and  rapidly-improving  agricultural  coun- 
try. Magnesian  limestone  of  a superior 
quality  is  found  in  abundance  in  the 
neighborhood. 


O TA. 

River  of  the  North,  and  the  North  Fork 
of  the  Platte.  The  Missouri  washes  the 
eastern  and  southern  border,  and  drains 
a large  portion  of  the  Territory.  (See  Lake 
AND  River  Tour,  No.  III.)  The  climate 
of  Dakota  is  healthful  and  genial,  and 
the  soil  is  well  suited  to  agricultural 
and  grazing  purposes,  being  rich  in 
the  yield  of  grain,  fruits,  and  vegeta- 
bles. The  first  white  settlements  were 
made  in  1858-59, at  Sioux  Falls,  Vermil- 
ion, and  Y ankton.  The  Yankton  and  the 
Ponca  Indians,  also  the  Winnebago,  the 
Sioux,  and  the  Santee  tribes  (recently  re- 
moved from  Minnesota),  have  extensive 
reservations  on  the  Missouri  River  and 
on  the  Niobrara  above  Yankton.  They 


Yankton.] 


COLORADO. 


[Colorado. 


are  reported  to  be  partially  domesticated, 
and  to  be  devoting  themselves  to  agricul- 
ture and  stock-raising.  Dakota  has  nu- 
merous lakes,  the  largest  of  which  is 
Winni-  Waken  or  Devil  Lake.  The  prin- 
cipal avenues  of  travel  to  and  through 
the  Territory  are  by  boat  up  the  Missouri 
River  to  Yankton,  or  by  the  overland 
mail  line  to  Fort  Laramie.  The  Northern 
Pacific  Railway  traverses  the  northern 
portion  of  Dakota,  and  will  greatly  de- 
velop the  resources  of  the  Territory.  It 
has  now  reached  Bismarck,  on  the  Mis- 
souri River. 

The  popilation  of  Dakota  is  given  by 
the  census  of  1870  as  14,181.  The  total 
valuation  of  real  estate  and  personal  prop- 
erty is  put  at  $2,814,629. 

the  capital,  is  situated 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  7 miles 


COLO 

Colorado  was  organized  as  a Territo- 
ry on  March  2,  1861.  It  has  an  area  of 
106,475  square  miles.  It  lies  directly 
west  of  Kansas,  and  comprises  the  west- 
ern part  of  the  old  Territory  of  Kansas, 
and  portions  of  th.e  former  Territories  of 
Nebraska,  New  Mexico,  and  Utah.  But 
little  was  known  of  this  region  till  1858, 
when  mining  operations  were  first  com- 
menced. Of  the  progress  that  has  been 
made  in  the  mining  districts  since  that 
time  we  shall  have  occasion  to  speak 
presently. 

As  yet,  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  in 
Colorado  is  principally  confined  to  the 
valleys  near  the  streams.  The  crops  of 
1867  were  large  enough  to  supply  the 
wants  of  the  Territory,  and  since  that 
time  it  has  been  exporting  grain  and 
produee  to  the  Missouri  River  towns,  to 
the  military  stations  on  the  Union  and 
Kansas  Pacific  Railways,  and  to  the  min- 
ing regions  of  Wyoming  and  Montana. 
During  the  fall  of  1870,  over  1,000  bar- 
rels of  Colorado  fiour  were  shipped  to 
Kansas  City  and  St.  Louis.  It  is  con- 
sidered of  better  quality  than  that  ob- 
tained from  Southern  Illinois  wheat. 
Dairy  products  are  also  important  in 
yield  and  quality.  Colorado  raneh  but- 
ter and  cheese  are  premium  products, 


above  the  mouth  of  the  Dakota  River, 
and  65  miles  north  of  the  Iowa  line. 
Population  about  1,200.  {See  page  178.) 

The  other  principal  settlements  are  Big 
Sioux  Point ^ Elk  Pointy  Matey  Creek ^ Ver- 
milion^ Bonhomme^  Greenwood^  and  Fori 
Randall.  Fort  Abercrombie  is  on  the  Red 
River  of  the  North,  near  the  Minnesota 
line. 

IBismarcli:  is  where  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  crosses  the  Missouri 
River,  and  for  this  reason  will  probably  be- 
come the  principal  commercial  point  in  the 
Territory.  It  will  be  the  startiug-point 
for  steamers  both  up  and  down  the  river. 

^ernailioa  is  on  the  Missouri 
River,  30  miles  southeast  of  Yankton, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux  River. 
At  this  place  is  located  the  United  States 
land-office  for  the  Territory. 


RAD  O. 

and  bring  from  five  to  fifteen  cents  a 
pound  more  than  any  other.  The  Ter- 
ritory is  now  self-supplying  in  the  whole 
range  of  agriculture,  except  in  fruit, 
which  California  and  Utah  provide. 

Stock-raising  is  an  important  industry 
in  Colorado.  The  best  grazing-lands  are 
along  the  South  Platte  and  its  mountain 
tributaries,  and  the  Arkansas.  The  lat- 
ter courses  through  Southern  Colorado, 
and  along  its  valley  the  great  herds  are 
mostly  pastured.  They  are  driven  north 
in  the  spring  and  shipped  to  Chicago  and 
St.  Louis  for  beef.  A late  estimate  shows 
that  there  are  now  in  the  Territory  about 
250,000  head  of  cattle  and  75,000  sheep. 
During  the  fall  of  1870  large  droves 
were  shipped  East.  A new  business  has 
lately  been  commenced  in  Denver,  that  of 
shipping  dressed  beef  to  Chicago.  About 
two  car-loads  of  wool  and  ten  of  hides 
are  shipped  east  from  Denver  every 
month. 

Timber  is  found  only  in  small  quanti- 
ties in  the  Territory. 

Population  and  Wealth. — In  1860  the 
population  of  Colorado  was  34,277  ; and 
in  1870,  39,706.  There  were  times  in 
1861-’62  when  it  reached  60,000.  This 
decrease  is  not  uncommon  in  mining 
Territories.  It  speaks  of  an  unsettled 
241 


Mining  Distkicts.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mining  Districts, 


population,  swelling  in  at  the  reports  of 
new  discoveries,  and  surging  out  for 
better  pay  elsewhere,  carrying  with  it 
the  growth  of  previous  years. 

The  total  valuation  of  real  estate  and 
personal  property  in  the  Territory  is 
given  by  the  census  of  1870  as  $17,022,- 
686.  Colorado  has  365  miles  of  railroad 
within  its  borders,  of  which  228  miles 
were  constructed  in  1870.  Its  mining 
products  for  that  year  foot  up  $3,750,- 
000,  its  crops  $4,551,000,  and  its  manu- 
factures $1,225,000. 

The  Aricansias  River  and  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Platte^  which  both  rise  near 
the  centre  of  the  Territory,  drain  the 
eastern  part  of  Colorado.  The  Yampa 
or  Bear  River,  the  Bunkara^  and  the 
Gunnison^  flow  from  the  western  slopes 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  Rio  Grande 
rises  in  the  Territory,  and  flows  south- 
ward into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
Bunkara  and  the  Gunnison  Rivers  form 
the  Grand  River^  which  is  a branch  of 
the  Colorado, 

THE  MINING  DISTRICTS. 

Gold  and  silver  are  found  in  large 
quantities  in  the  central  parts  of  Colo- 
rado. A strip  of  fifty  miles  wide  along 
the  slope,  from  the  northern  to  the  south- 
ern border  of  the  Territory,  will  take  in 
about  all  the  peopled  and  producing 
parts.  All  the  important  mineral  devel- 
opments, the  best  farms,  and  the  princi- 
pal towns,  lie  within  this  belt.  Here  are 
Denver,  Central  City,  Georgetown,  Black 
Hawk,  Nevada,  Idaho,  Cariboo,  Boulder, 
Golden,  Pueblo,  Colorado  City,  Greeley, 
Trinidad,  and  Canon  City.  The  South 
Platte,,  with  its  tributaries,  the  Big  Thomp- 
son, Cache  la  Poudre,  Cherry  Creek,  and 
the  Arkansas,  with  its  numerous  branches, 
are  more  farmed  within  this  area  than 
over  all  the  rest  of  their  great  extent. 
The  mining  - regions  are  situated,  with 
hardly  an  exception,  in  the  midst  of  the 
most  beautiful  scenery,  and  the  indus- 
tries and  population  of  these  parts  have 
given  birth  to  mountain  towns  numbering 
thousands  of  inhabitants,  and  remarkable 
for  picturesque  beauty.  To  many  of 
these  centres,  situated  high  up  among 
the  fastnesses  of  the  range,  narrow-gauge 
railroads  now  extend,  and  others  arc  in 
242 


process  of  construction.  Concord  stages 
connect  with  the  roads  to  points  of  inter- 
est. The  traveller  now  has  choice  of 
several  routes.  He  may  take  the  rail- 
road to  Boulder  Creek  and  Boulder  City 
on  the  north,  and  view  the  mining  camps 
of  that  fast-expanding  quarter.  He  may 
take  another  railway  trip  to  Golden  City, 
a growing  town  lying  nearly  due  west  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  thence  by 
rail  up  the  North  Clear  Creek  Valley  to 
Black  Hawk  and  Central  City.  Another 
stage  route  for  the  south  strikes  into  the 
mountains  on  what  is  called  the  Mount 
Vernon  road  ; thence  into  the  South 
Clear  Creek  Valley  below  Idaho  ; thence 
up  the  Clear  Creek  Valley  to  Georgetown, 
tho  centre  of  the  silver-mining  region. 
Still  farther  south,  where  Bear  Creek 
and  Turkey  Creek  issue  from  the  moun- 
tains, is  the  road  that  leads  up  into  the 
South  Park  country.  The  placer  mines 
of  Summit  County  have  grown  into  im- 
portance, and  their  annual  yield  is  placed 
at  $500,000.  The  new  Grand  Island 
District^  of  which  Cariboo  is  the  capital, 
lying  in  the  edge  of  Boulder  County, 
within  six  months  of  its  discovery  yield- 
ed $275,000.  The  South  Park  mines 
have  turned  out  richly.  The  receipts  at 
the  Branch  Mint,  at  Denver,  from  ail  the 
mines  of  the  Territory,  for  the  year  end- 
ing December  1,  1870,  were  $1,125,000. 

Coal  and  iron  mining  has  become  of 
late  an  important  interest  in  the  Territory. 
Between  the  South  Boulder  and  Golden 
the  coal-seams  cover  an  area  of  twenty 
square  miles.  Openings  have  been  made 
in  many  places,  always  revealing  work- 
able coal  in  beds  from  five  to  sixteen  feet 
in  thickness.  Throughout  the  Boulder 
coal-region  are  valuable  deposits  of  iron- 
ore,  consisting  of  hydrates  and  red  hema- 
tites, free  from  phosphorus,  and  of  the 
purest  kinds,  well  adapted  to  the  manu- 
facture of  steel.  The  quantity  of  surface 
ore  is  estimated  at  one  hundred  thousand 
tons.  Two  and  one-third  tons  of  roasted 
ore  produce  one  ton  of  iron.  The  local- 
ity where  these  iron-mines  are  found  is 
convenient  for  limestone  (used  as  a flux 
in  smelting  the  ores),  sand  for  moulding, 
grit-stones  for  building  purposes,  and 
fire-clay.  The  coal  is  comparatively  free 
from  sulphur.  Coking-works  have  been 
established  near  one  of  the  banks,  and 


The  Parks.] 


COLORADO. 


[The  Parks. 


y at  another  experiments  have  been  made 
^ in  smelting  the  iron-ore,  wliich  is  found 
to  yield  from  seventy  to  eighty  per  cent, 
of  pure  metal.  The  experiments  thus 
far  made  show  that,  for  the  production 
of  one  ton  of  pig-iron,  three  tons  of  the 
ore,  two  hundred  pounds  of  limestone, 
and  from  one  hundred  and  thirty  to  one 
and  fifty  bushels  of  clear  coal  are  re- 
quired. It  is  estimated  that  the  area 
over  which  these  iron  deposits  abound  is 
fifty  square  miles. 

THE  GREAT  NATURAL  PARKS. 

The  surface  of  the  Territory  is  gener- 
ally mountainous,  but  in  the  eastern  and 
northwestern  parts  are  elevated  plains. 
The  spurs  or  branches  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  enclose  large  fertile  valleys, 
known  as  the  North  Park,  Middle  Park, 
South  Park,  and  San  Luis  Park. 

Nor  til  l^arlc,  lying  in  the  extreme 
northern  part  of  the  Territory,  has  been 
less  explored  and  settled  than  the  rest, 
owing  to  its  remote  situation  and  colder 
climate.  It  offers,  for  these  reasons,  the 
first  attractions  to  the  sportsman  and  ad- 
venturer ; its  streams  are  stocked  with 
fish,  and  its  forests  and  hill-sides  abound 
with  bears,  deer,  wolves,  and  antelopes. 

Middle  IParlc  is  directly  south 
of  North  Park,  from  which  it  is  separated 
by  one  of  the  cross-chains  of  the  great 
mountain  labyrinth.  It  is  50  miles  wide 
by  70  miles  long.  The  snow-range  or 
continental  divide  sweeps  around  on  its 
eastern  side,  but  it  is  completely  encir- 
cled by  majestic  mountains.  Long’s 
Peak,  Gray’s  Peak,  and  Mount  Lincoln, 
from  13,000  to  14,500  feet  high,  stand 
sentinels  about  it.  It  is  drained  by  Blue 
River  and  the  head-waters  of  Grand  Riv- 
er, flowing  westward  to  the  Colorado. 
Middle  Park  is  really  made  up  of  a series 
of  smaller  parks,  each  somewhat  inde- 
pendent of  the  others.  The  portions  not 
covered  by  forests  expand  into  broad, 
open  meadows,  the  grasses  of  which  are 
interspersed  with  wild-flowers  of  nearly 
every  hue. 

Soiitli  I^arlc,  the  best  known  and 
probably  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the 
parks,  lies  below.  The  continental  di- 
vide embraces  it  on  the  west.  It  is  60 
miles  long  and  30  wide,  and,  like  the 


Middle  Park,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
gigantic  ranges  of  mountains,  whose  cul- 
minating  crests  tower  above  the  line  of 
perpetual  snow.  It  is  well  watered  and 
timbered  ; the  climate  is  delightful,  and 
the  scenery  magnificent.  Good  roads  and 
trails  traverse  it  in  several  directions. 

Sam  Kiiiis  l^arlc,  in  Southern 
Colorado,  is  the  largest.  It  embraces  an 
area  of  nearly  eighteen  thousand  square 
miles — about  twice  the  size  of  New  Hamp- 
shire. On  the  east  it  is  flanked  by  the 
Cordilleras^  on  the  west  by  the  Sierra 
Mimbres^  two  vast  and  lofty  mountain- 
chains.  It  is  watered  by  thirty  - five 
streams  descending  from  the  encircling 
snow-crests.  Nineteen  of  these  flow  into 
San  Luis  Lake^  a beautiful  sheet  of  wa- 
ter near  the  centre  of  the  park,  while  the 
others  discharge  their  waters  into  the  Rio 
del  Norte,  in  its  course  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  On  the  flanks  of  the  great 
mountains  dense  forests  of  pine,  fir, 
spruce,  aspen,  hemlock,  oak,  cedar,  and 
pinon,  alternate  with  broad,  natural 
meadows,  producing  a luxuriant  growth 
of  nutritious  grasses.  The  plains  are 
dotted  with  timber,  but  arc  for  the  most 
part  clothed  with  grasses,  upon  which 
cattle  subsist  throughout  the  year,  with- 
out any  other  food,  and  requiring  no 
shelter.  Thermal  springs  abound  here, 
as  in  many  other  parts  of  Colorado,  gen- 
erally highly  charged  with  medicinal  prop- 
erties. 

Moiimmemt  which  is 

much  smaller  than  any  of  the  others,  at- 
tracts many  visitors.  It  is  reached  from 
Monument,  a station  on  the  Rio  Grande  & 
Denver  road,  and  is  about  nine  miles 
from  Colorado  Springs.  The  park  is 
very  striking.  The  visitor  may  readily 
imagine  himself  in  some  vast  cemetery, 
filled  with  monuments  cf  a departed  race. 
Distributed  principally  upon  one  of  the 
bluffs  enclosing  the  park,  the  mimic  se- 
pulchral sculpture  stands  up  in  almost  ev- 
ery conceivable  variety  of  form.  A close 
examination  of  the  “ monuments  ” shows 
that  they  are  composed  of  a rather  close 
conglomerate,  surmounted  by  an  over- 
hanging capital  of  darker  color  and  hard- 
er texture ; where  this  has  fallen,  the  col- 
umns are  much  more  weather-worn,  and 
are  evidently  hastening  rapidly  to  com- 
plete disintegration. 


243 


Denver.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Plerlo. 


Oanleii  of*  llic  Ood.^  is  a fanci- 
ful title  for  a valley  of  small  dimensions 
lying  four  miles  from  Colorado  Springs. 
Its  features  are  a number  of  shelf-like 
rocks,  uphcaved  into  perpendicular  posi- 
tion, some  of  them  rising  to  about  350 
feet  in  height.  The  road  enters  the  Gar- 
den, so  called,  through  a narrow  passage- 
way between  two  towering  but  narrow 
ledges  of  cliffs,  and  this  entrance  is  desig- 
nated the  gate-way,  although  it  is  difficult 
to  determine  the  boundaries  of  the  “ Gar- 
den.” The  rocks  are  mainly  of  a very 
soft,  brilliantly-red  sandstone,  although 
one  ridge  of  cliffs  is  of  a white  sandstone. 
The  foot-hills  in  the  vicinity  are  many  of 
them  capped  by  similar  upheavals,  ridges 
of  serrated  rock,  while  all  about  the  main 
cliff  in  the  valley  are  numerous  separate, 
spire-like  columns.  At  the  entrance  to 
Glen  Eyrie,  a short  distance  from  the  Gar- 
den, where  General  Palmer,  president  of 
the  Denver  & Rio  Grande  Railroad,  has 
built  a beautiful  mountain  villa,  are  simi- 
lar rocks,  one  of  which  stands  like  an 
immense  tower,  several  hundred  feet 
high,  and  not  more  than  seven  or  eight 
feet  in  thickness.  These  rock-forms  are 
a phenomenal  feature  peculiarly  attractive 
to  the  geologist, 

li  O UTE  I. 

DENVER  & BIO  GRANDE  RAILWAY. 

which  has  already  been 
fully  described  on  page  92,  will  naturally 
be  the  tourist’s  starting-point,  whatever 
places  he  may  wish  to  visit.  From  here 
a narrow-gauge  railroad — the  first  erect- 
ed in  the  country — extends  southward 
11 '7  miles  to  Senbler.  It  is  designed  to 
extend  it  to  Santa  Fe.  No  stations  of 
importance  are  passed  until  Colorado 
Springs  are  reached,  75  miles  from  Den- 
ver. But  the  road  is  exceedingly  inter- 
esting the  entire  distance,  affording  as  it 
does  continually  varying  scenes  of  the 
mountains,  with  Pike’s  Peak  in  view 
nearly  the  entire  distance. 

The  road  crosses  the  “ Divide,”  the 
summit  of  which  is  60  miles  south  of 
Denver,  a spur  of  the  mountains  7,500 
feet  above  tide-level,  so  called  because 
it  divides  the  South  Platte  and  the  Ar- 
kansas. 


At  the  station  “ Monument''  about  66 
miles  south  from  Denver,  there  is  a hotel. 
This  point  is  in  close  proximity  to  “Monu- 
ment Park.” 

Coioi*£ado  Spriisg-s  is  an  im- 
portant centre  for  the  tourist,  being 
situated  in  close  proximity  to  many 
points  of  interest.  The  name  is  mis- 
leading, however.  No  springs  are  sit- 
uated within  six  miles  of  the  spot,  the 
name  being  applied  simply  to  an  active 
and  flourishing  town,  laid  out  first  in 
1871.  Concord  coaches  connect  with 
every  train  for  the  springs,  six  miles  dis- 
tant, where  there  are  several  hotels,  the 
“ Manitou  House  " being  the  most  prom- 
inent. This  hotel  is  a fashionable  sum- 
mer resort ; it  is  situated  among  the 
foot-hills  at  the  base  of  Pike’s  Peak, 
and  affords  a good  point  of  departure 
for  this  mountain.  It  is  on  the  road  to 
Ute  JPass^  to  Nalls  of  the  Fountain  ; is 
near  Garden  of  the  Gods^  Glen  Eyrie^  and 
about  eight  miles  from  Monument  Park. 
“ Colorado  Springs  ” is  also  a good  point 
of  departure  for  all  these  places,  and  also 
for  Cheyenne  Mountain  and  Cheyenne  Ca- 
non. It  is  a flourishing  village,  situated 
on  the  plains,  with  a fine  view  of  the 
mountain.  The  streets  are  planted  with 
shade-trees,  and  currents  of  a mountain 
stream,  brought  from  the  hills,  flow 
through  every  avenue.  There  is  a good 
hotel.  The  following  table  of  distances 
to  noted  places  will  be  serviceable  to  the 
tourist : To  Mountain  Springs,  6 miles  ; to 
Garden  of  the  Gods,  4 miles ; to  Monu- 
ment Park,  9 miles  ; to  Glen  Eyrie,  6 
miles  ; to  Cheyenne  Canon,  4 miles  ; and 
to  summit  of  Pike’s  Peak,  by  carriage,  6 
miles,  8 miles  by  mule,  and  2 miles  of 
rugged  foot-path — total,  16  miles.  Guides 
are  at  hand  for  the  more  distant  points, 
and  the  traveller  should  remain  here 
several  days  if  he  would  enjoy  all  the 
beauties  of  the  region. 

E®iiel>lo  is  the  chief  city  of  South- 
ern Colorado.  It  is  situated  at-  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Fontaine  qui  Bouille  with 
the  Arkansas  River ; is  at  the  crossing 
of  the  old  trade-routes  from  the  East, 
and  between  Colorado  and  New  Mexico  ; 
and  is  the  commercial  entrepot  for  the 
vast  and  rich  arborous  valley.  In  1872  its 
population  was  2,600 ; it  is  probably  now 
considerably  in  excess  of  this.  “The 


244 


CAfJoN  City.] 


COLORADO. 


[Georgetvtcts. 


railroad  projects,”  says  the  Hand-Book 
of  Colorado,  “ may  be  stated  as  follows ; 
The  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railway  al- 
ready in  operation ; the  Pueblo  and  Ca- 
non City  branch  now  under  construc- 
tion ; the  extension  of  the  main  line 
down  the  Rio  Grande  ; a branch  from 
Pueblo  to  Trinidad,  100  miles  ; the  con- 
struction of  a branch  of  the  Kansas  Pa- 
ciiic  from  Kit  Carson  to  this  point ; the 
change  of  route  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka, 
& Santa  Fe  Railroad,  taking  the  Ar- 
kansas Yalley,  and  making  Pueblo  its 
objective  point.” 

Caiioii  City,  45  miles  from  Pue- 
blo, reached  by  a branch  of  the  Denver 
& Rio  Grande  Railway,  is  situated  on 
the  Arkansas  River,  five  miles  from  ex- 
tensive coal  mines  — an  active,  rapidly- 
growing  place. 

BOUTE  II. 

COLOB  ABO  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 

The  Colorado  Central  Railway  ex- 
tends, by  ordinary  track,  to  Golden 
City,  15  miles  distant;  from  this  point  a 
narrow-gauge  road  runs  up  the  Clear 
Greek  Canon  to  Black  Hawk  and  Cen- 
tral City,  with  a branch  road  at  a point 
eight  miles  this  side,  extending  to  Idaho 
Springs,  and  in  process  of  construction 
to  Georgetown. 

^oldfem  City  is  situated  near  the 
line  of  the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains, 
between  tv/o  picturesque  hills  and  the 
North  and  South  Table  Mountains.  It 
is  in  the  centre  of  an  extensive  mining- 
region  ; is  the  point  of  departure  for  the 
mountain  mining- towns,  for  Bear  Creek 
Canon,  6 miles  distant  (by  wagon-road), 
Boulder  and  Boulder  Canon,  18  miles 
northward. 

The  road  up  Clear  Creek  Canon  follows 
the  winding  of  the  creek  through  one  of 
the  most  wild  and  picturesque  regions  on 
the  continent.  The  canon  is  very  nar- 
row ; the  irregular  walls  of  rock  reach 
from  one  to  two  thousand  feet  in  height. 
Every  turn  of  the  road  shows  a new  and 
often  startling  picture — piles  of  Titanic 
rocks,  ponderous  masses  that  seem  to 
threaten  instant  downfall  into  the  stream 
below.  Ill  order  to  see  the  splendid 


scenery  to  advantage,  an  outside  place 
should  be  secured.  But  observation- 
cars  are  in  process  of  construction, 
which  will  prove  of  great  advantage  to 
the  lover  of  the  picturesque.  It  is 
claimed  by  some  that  no  railroad  ride  in 
the  country  equals  this  in  all  the  con- 
ditions  of  wild  and  wonderful  scenery. 

ISlaclc  Mawlc  (30  miles),  the 
terminus  of  the  right  branch  of  tlie 
road,  is  a mining-town,  built  irregularly 
along  the  gulches  and  mountain-sides,  and 
is  one  of  the  busiest  towns  in  the  Terri- 
tory. It  lies  in  the  heart  ol‘  Gilpin  County, 
a mile  east  of  Central,  and  is  a point  of 
extensive  mining  and  milling  operations. 
Professor  Hill’s  reduction  - works,  the 
most  extensive  in  Colorado,  and  numer- 
ous stamp-mills  and  founderies,  are  lo- 
cated here. 

Ceaatral  City,  mile  distant, 
reached  by  omnibus,  is  an  extensive 
mining  town,  very  picturesquely  situated 
on  the  mountain-slopes,  on  an  elevation 
of  8,500  feet.  This  is  a point  of  depart- 
ure for  James’s  Peak.  A stage  connects 
with  Idaho  Springs,  and  thence  to  George- 
town. There  are  numerous  shops,  banks, 
newspapers,  and  an  excellent  hotel. 

By  the  Georgetown  division  of  the 
railroad  we  reach 

©prangs  (35  miles),  the 
present  terminus  of  the  branch,  beauti 
fully  situated  in  a valley  nestling  among 
lofty  mountain  - ranges.  The  chief  at- 
tractions of  the  place  are  its  hot  and 
cold  mineral  springs,  its  salubrious  at- 
mosphere, and  its  charming  scenery.  It 
has  all  conveniences  requisite  for  the 
comfort  of  tourists  and  invalids,  and  is 
quite  a rendezvous  for  excursion-parties. 
The  fullest  outfits  of  carriages,  horses, 
and  attendants,  are  here  furnished  to 
those  desiring  to  visit  Middle  Park,  Chi- 
cago Lakes,  Green  Lakes,  the  Old  Chief, 
the  mining-regions,  and  many  other  in- 
teresting points  in  the  environs. 

Creorgetowm  (48  miles),  the  pro- 
jected terminus  of  this  branch  of  the 
Colorado  Central  Railway^  is  now  reached 
by  Concord  stages.  It  is  the  centre  of 
the  silver-mining  interests,  and  is  situated 
on  a broad,  level  base  at  the  mouth  of  two 
or  three  canons,  walled  in,  on  three  sides, 
by  Leavenworth,  Republican,  and  Sum- 
mit Mountains. 


246 


Gray’s  Peak.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Wyoming. 


Crpay’s  I®ealc.  Georgetown  is 
the  starting-point  for  Gray’s  Peak,  which 
every  visitor  to  Colorado  should  ascend. 
One  day  will  suffice  to  carry  the  tourist 
to  the  summit  and  back  again  to  George- 
town. The  mountain-view  from  Gray’s 
Peak,  except  that  it  lacks  the  picturesque- 
ness of  the  glaciers,  has  all  the  beau- 
ties of  Alpine  scenery.  To  the  north- 
west and  south  there  is  almost  an  in- 
finite number  of  lofty  peaks  and  frown- 
ing crags,  while  down  the  valleys  of  the 
different  branches  of  Clear  Creek  to  the 
eastward  one  can  see  far  out  on  the 
plains,  perhaps  a hundred  and  fifty  miles 
away.  To  the  northeast  is  Long’s  Peak, 
only  a few  feet  lower  than  Gray’s.  To  the 
west  is  the  Blue  River  Range,  broken  by 
lofty,  jagged,  snow-crowned  peaks,  while 
far  toward  Bear  River,  in  the  blue  dis- 
tance, the  Ahrs  and  Gore's  Pass 

are  prominent  objects.  To  the  south- 
east, Pike’s  Peak  looms  up  in  solemn 
grandeur,  while  to  the  west  of  it  the 
Sawatch  and  other  ranges,  that  mark 
the  course  of  the  Arkansas,  skirt  the 
horizon.  Sections  of  the  Middle  and  the 
South  Parks,  scooped  out  far  down  in 
the  mountains,  with  other  deep  valleys 
without  number,  repose  in  quiet  beauty 
at  our  feet. 


HOUTE  III. 

To  Boulder,  46  miles  from  Den- 
ver, by  Colorado  Central  Railway  to 
Golden,  thence  by  Julesburg  & Golden 
Railway.  The  situation  of  this  town 
among  the  lower  range  of  foot-hills  is 
very  picturesque,  and  it  is  the  commer- 
cial centre  of  one  of  the  richest  mineral 
regions  in  Colorado-  Near  it  is  Boulder 
Caiion^  accessible  by  a w agon  - road, 
which  is  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  Ter- 


ritory, and  which  is  thus  described  by 
Mr.  J.  H.  Zin,  in  his  book  “Over  the 
Plains  and  on  the  Mountains:”  “No 
language  can  do  justice  to  its  awful,  sub- 
lime, and  grand  scenery.  Here  is  im- 
mense variety  and  stupendous  vastness, 
combined  with  all  the  elements  of  the 
grand,  the  beautiful,  and  the  sublime.” 

BOUTE  IV. 

DENVER  PACIFIC  RAILWAY  TO 
CHEYENNE. 

Oreeley  (52  miles)  is  the  pioneer 
colony  town  of  Colorado.  Laid  out  in 
May,  1870  ; business  of  the  place  already 
large.  The  colony  has  about  100,000 
acres,  and  exhibits  some  of  the  best  in- 
stances of  farming  by  irrigation  in  the 
country.  Two  canals  have  been  dug, 
one  10  miles,  the  other  26  miles,  long. 

CBieyeitiie,¥/yandotte  (106  miles). 
{See  page  96.) 

BOUND  TBIB. 

For  the  tourist  who  may  wish  to  sec 
as  mueh  as  possible,  a trip  that  will  take 
in  much  of  the  best  scenery  of  Colorado 
is  from  Denver  to  South  Park  and  back, 
via  Colorado  Springs  and  Garden  of  the 
Gods.  Distances  as  follows  : From  Den- 
ver to  the  entrance  of  South  Park,  70 
miles ; thence  to  Fairplay,  20  miles ; 
Fairplay  to  Twin  Lakes,  40  miles  ; Twin 
Lakes  to  South  Park,  35  miles ; thence 
to  Canon  City,  70  miles ; Canon  City  to 
Colorado  Springs,  45  miles;  Colorado 
Springs  to  Denver,  75  miles — total,  355 
miles.  The  side  visits  are  Hamilton  to 
Breckinridge,  16  miles  ; Fairplay  to 
Mount  Lincoln,  12  miles  ; Twin  Lakes  to 
the  summit  of  the  Saguache  Range,  22 
miles. 


WYOMING. 


Wyoming  Territory — organized  by  act 
of  Congress,  July  25,  1868 — lies  between 
the  27th  and  34th  meridians  of  longitude 
west  from  Washington,  and  the  41st  and 
45th  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  covers 
246  . 


an  area  of  97,880  square  miles,  or  up- 
ward of  62,500,000  acres.  It  has  Ne- 
braska and  Dakota  on  the  east,  Colorado 
and  Utah  on  the  south,  Utah  and  Idaho 
on  the  west,  and  Montana  on  the  north. 


Climate.] 


WYOMING. 


[Mining  Districts. 


The  southeastern  part  of  the  Territory  is 
watered  by  the  North  Fork  of  the  Platte 
River  and  its  tributaries,  among  which 
are  the  Laramie  and  Sweetwater  Rivers. 
The  northeastern  section  is  drained  by 
the  Cheyenne  River,  flowing  east  into  the 
Missouri.  In  the  southwest,  we  have  the 
Green  River  and  its  numerous  affluents, 
and  in  the  northwest  the  Big  Horn,  Pow- 
der, and  Yellowstone  Rivers,  flowing 
north.  The  general  altitude  of  the  plains 
and  valleys  of  Wyoming  is  from  3,000  to 
'7,000  feet.  The  altitude  of  Pine  Bluffs, 
at  the  eastern  boundary,  is  5,026  feet ; 
Cheyenne,  the  capital  of  the  Territory,  is 
6,040  feet;  Laramie  City,  7,123  feet. 

Climate. — The  air  in  Wyoming  is  light 
and  pure,  there  being  but  little  snow  here, 
compared  with  the  amount  that  falls  in 
the  States  along  this  latitude.  Snow 
does  not  interfere  with  the  grazing  of 
cattle  and  sheep  throughout  the  winter. 
There  is  very  little  extremely  cold  weath- 
er; and  the  thermometer  is  not  higher 
than  90°  Fahr.  during  the  hottest  days 
in  August.  The  evenings  and  morn- 
ings are  always  cool  and  exhilarating. 
The  only  disagreeable  feature  of  the 
climate  is  the  frequency  of  the  strong 
winds  in  the  fall  and  winter.  These, 
however,  do  no  harm  to  man  nor  beast, 
nor  do  they,  as  in  the  States,  accompany 
heavy  storms ; on  the  contrary,  they 
soon  give  place  to  sunshine  and  pleasant 
weather. 

Timber. — The  traveller  crossing  the 
continent  on  the  railway  obtains  the  idea 
that  the  Territory  has  very  little  timber ; 
that  the  mountains  are  covered  with  a 
few  pines  only.  This  is  not  the  case. 
There  are  millions  of  acres  of  pine,  cedar, 
fir,  spruce,  and  hemlock.  All  the  timber 
can  easily  be  floated  down  the  numerous 
streams  to  the  railroad.  The  forests  are 
inexhaustible  for  many  generations,  and 
must  become  a source  of  wealth  to  the 
people  of  the  Territory  and  to  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway. 

Buffalo  are  found  in  large  herds  in  the 
northern  portion  of  Wyoming,  and  elk, 
deer,  and  antelope  are  quite  numerous. 
Of  fur-bearing  animals  there  are  the 
beaver,  otter,  and  mink,  which  are  a 
source  of  large  profit  to  the  trapper  and 
hunter. 

Stock-Raising.  — The  advantages  and 


facilities  for  stock-raising  in  Wyoming 
are  excellent.  The  short,  nutritious  grass 
on  the  plains  and  hill-sides  makes  the 
Territory  one  of  the  most  desirable  stock- 
growing regions  on  the  continent.  Cattle 
feed  and  fatten  upon  it,  both  winter  and 
summer,  without  other  fodder  or  shelter. 
Sheep  also  feed  the  entire  year  upon  the 
grass  of  the  plains,  and,  like  the  cattle, 
require  no  shelter  but  that  furnished  by 
the  bluffs  or  canons.  The  high  rolling 
character  of  the  country  and  the  dry  cli- 
mate are  extremly  favorable  to  sheep- 
raising and  wool-growing. 

The  soil  of  the  plains  and  valleys  is 
well  adapted  to  the  raising  of  wheat, 
oats,  and  barley,  and  potatoes,  cabbage, 
turnips,  beets,  and  onions.  Deep  plough- 
ing and  irrigation  are  necessary. 

The  'population  of  Wyoming  is  given 
by  the  census  of  1870  as  9,118,  and  its 
wealth  is  estimated  at  $5,516,743. 

The  Mining  Districts. — The  minerals 
found  in  the  Territory  are  principally 
gold,  copper,  iron,  paint-ore,  and  coal. 
Gold  is  mined  at  present  in  the  Sweet- 
loater  country,  near  South  Pass  and  At- 
lantic City.  {See  pages  105,  106.)  It  is 
also  found  on  the  northeast  and  west  sides 
of  Medicine-Bow  Mountain.  Copper  and 
paint-ore  are  produced  in  Carbon  County, 
near  Rawlins  Springs.  Iron-ore  is  found 
in  large  deposits  all  over  the  Territory. 
The  celebrated  Iron  Mountain.^  near  Chey- 
enne, presents  the  ore  in  the  condition 
of  magnetic  iron-stone.  Its  color  is 
black,  it  has  a metallic  lustre  when 
broken,  influences  the  magnetic  needle, 
and  is  far  superior  in  quality  to  most  of 
the  iron-ores  found  in  the  States.  This 
mountain  rises  over  2,000  feet  above 
the  valley,  is  about  a mile  long,  and  sev- 
eral hundred  feet  wide,  being  one  solid 
mass  of  iron-stone,  free  from  rock  or 
earth  of  any  kind.  The  Territory  has 
coal  in  abundance,  it  being  found  in  all 
parts.  The  deposits  are  said  to  cover  an 
area  of  30,000  square  miles.  Silver  has 
not  yet  been  discovered  in  the  Terrritory, 
but  it  probably  exists  in  the  limestone 
formations  in  different  localities.  Precious 
stones,  including  the  topaz,  amethyst, 
agate,  opal,  jasper,  and  chalcedony,  have 
been  found  in  small  quantities. 

Railways. — There  are  nearly  500  miles 
of  railway  in  the  Territory,  and  two  rail- 
247 


Montana.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Rivers. 


road  projects  are  pending,  which  will  add 
VOO  miles  to  the  same.  The  Union  Pa- 
cific Railway  crosses  Wyoming  near  its 
southern  boundary-line,  and  has  480 
miles  of  track  within  its  limits.  The 
Denver  Pacific  Railway  connects  Chey- 
enne with  Greeley  and  Denver,  in  Colo- 
rado. At  the  latter  place  it  forms  a 
junction  with  the  Kansas  Pacific  Rail- 
way, This  road  was  completed  about  two 
years  since,  and  has  greatly  benefited  the 
people  of  Wyoming.  The  Cheyenne^  Iron 
Mountain  (^Montana  Railway  Company^ 
and  the  Green  River  <Sc  Yellowstone  Rail- 
rmy  Company^  have  lately  been  organized. 
The  names  indicate  the  points  at  which 
these  roads  will  commence  and  end. 
The  two  enterprises  are  in  the  hands  of 
the  most  influential  men  of  the  West, 
and  will  open  to  the  settler  the  most 
valuable  portion  of  the  Territory,  which 
would  otherwise  remain  a wilderness  for 
many  generations. 

ClB.eyeiaiiie.  {See  page  94.) 

Along  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific 
Railway  are  the  towns  of  Wyoming^  Car- 


hon^  Rawlins^  Bryan.,  and  Carter,  prin- 
cipally built  up  by  mining  interests.  {See 
pages  103-105.) 

KvamstoHL  is  located  near  the  great 
coal-mines  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Coal 
Company,  and  derives  its  importance 
from  these  mines.  Here  some  of  the 
best  coal  of  the  West  is  found.  Utah, 
Nevada,  and  California,  draw  their  sup- 
plies of  fuel  from  the  mines  at  Evan- 
ston. 

So7iih  Pass,  Hamilton,  and  Atlantic, 
are  inland  towns,  located  at  a distance 
of  75  miles  from  the  railroad,  near  the 
celebrated  Sweetwater  gold-mines.  The 
growth  and  future  importance  of  these 
places  depend  in  some  measure  upon  the 
development  of  these  mines.  The  red- 
men  are  at  present  disposed  to  be  peace- 
able. Their  reservations  being  at  a dis- 
tance of  several  hundred  miles  from  the 
settlements,  they  do  not  come  in  contact 
with  the  whites,  and  the  military  force  in 
the  Territory  is  adequate  to  the  task  of 
keeping  the  Indians  within  bounds. 

City.  {See  page  102.) 


MONTANA. 


Montana  formed  a part  of  Idaho  until 
May,  1864,  at  which  time  it  was  organ- 
ized into  a distinct  Territory.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  the  British 
possessions,  on  the  east  by  Dakota,  and 
on  the  south  by  Wyoming  and  Idaho,  and 
on  the  west  by  Idaho.  Its  length  is  about 
560  miles,  and  its  breadth  about  275  miles, 
having  an  area  of  about  153,300  square 
miles. 

Mountains,  Soil,  etc. — The  surface  of 
the  country  is  generally  mountainous. 
The  great  Rocky  Mountain  range  crosses 
the  Territory.  Commencing  at  the  north- 
ern boundary,  this  range  extends  a dis- 
tance of  about  200  miles  in  a south-south- 
east direction,  after  which  it  describes  a 
great  curve  westward  until  it  touches  the 
border  of  Idaho.  From  this  point  the 
range  winds  along  the  southwest  boundary 
of  Montana  for  nearly  200  miles.  The  Bit- 
ter-Root  Mountains  also  form  a part  of 
the  western  boundary.  The  country 
bordering  on  the  Jeflerson,  Gallatin,  and 
248 


Madison  Forks  of  the  Missouri,  is  among 
the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  to  be  found 
west  of  the  Mississippi.  The  country  is 
a gently-undulating  prairie,  dotted  here 
and  there  with  clumps  of  timber.  The 
streams  are  beautifully  fringed  with  forest- 
growth,  the  soil  is  rich,  and  the  climate 
generally  mild  and  invigorating. 

Minerals. — Gold  and  silver  have  been 
found  in  great  abundance,  and  mining  is 
now  the  most  important  industry  of  the 
Territory.  Montana  is  believed,  by  many 
who  have  visited  and  “ prospected  ” it,  to 
be  the  richest  placer-mining  region  in 
the  United  States. 

Rivers. — The  principal  rivers  are  the 
Missouri,  the  Yellowstone,  and  their  trib- 
utaries ; the  Big  Horn,  Powder-Horn, 
Milk,  and  Manas  Rivers. 

'^FSae  Missouri  is  fully  described 
in  Tours  op  the  Great  Lakes  and  Rivers, 
No.  III.  {See  page  173.) 

'1^'Sae  CJreat  otf*  tli© 

Missouri  (seepage  174)  are  regarded 


L 


bMT.pOANE^!^^lbri8-;r^^^^^^^^^  ?r'-' 
ff?y: 


The  Yellowstone.] 


MONTANA. 


[The  Devil’s  Slide. 


as  the  leading  object  of  interest  to  trav- 
ellers. 

THE  SCENERY  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

The  Yellowstone  is  without  exception 
the  most  extraordinary  river  on  the  con- 
tinent. It  has  only  been  fully  explored 
within  the  past  year  or  two,  and  its  won- 
ders are  as  yet  comparatively  unknown. 
The  Northern  Pacific  Railway^  which  will 
traverse  the  Territory,  will  in  all  proba- 
bility be  completed  within  the  next  three 
years,  when  the  trip  from  the  Atlantic 
seaboard  to  this  wonderful  region  may  be 
made  within  four  days,  and  the  rush  of 
tourists  to  Montana  will  then  scarcely 
be  less  than  to  California  at  the  present 
time.  With  its  tributaries.  Big  Horn^ 
Powder-Horn^  etc.,  this  great  river  drains 
the  southern  and  eastern  portions  of  the 
Territory,  in  which  nearly  the  whole  of 
its  course  is  included.  Mr.  N.  P.  Lang- 
ford, the  explorer  of  the  Yellowstone, 
has  furnished  a series  of  well-written 
articles  on  the  subject,  to  Scribner's 
Monthly^  from  which  we  make  the  fol- 
lowing extracts : 

“ The  Yellowstone  and  Columbia,  the 
first  flowing  into  the  Missouri  and  the  last 
into  the  Pacific,  divided  from  each  other 
by  the  Rocky  Mountains,  have  their 
sources  within  a few  miles  of  each  other. 
Both  rise  in  the  mountains  which  separate 
Idaho  from  the  new  Territory  of  Wyo- 
ming, but  the  head-waters  of  the  Yellow- 
stone are  only  accessible  from  Montana. 
The  mountains  surrounding  the  basin 
from  which  they  flow  are  very  lofty, 
covered  with  pines,  and  on  the  south- 
eastern side  present  to  the  traveller  a 
precipitous  wall  of  rock  several  thousand 
feet  in  height.  This  barrier  prevented 
Captain  Reynolds  from  visiting  the  head- 
waters of  the  Yellowstone  while  prosecut- 
ing an  expedition  planned  by  the  govern- 
ment and  placed  under  his  command,  for 
the  purpose  of  exploring  that  river  in 
1859.” 

TJic  Somrce  of  tiae  Yellow- 
stone is  in  a magnificent  lake,  nearly 
9,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean. 
In  its  course  of  1,300  miles  to  the  Mis- 
souri, it  falls  about  7,200  feet.  Its  upper 
waters  flow  through  deep  canons  and 
gorges,  and  are  broken  by  immense  cata- 
racts and  fearful  rapids,  presenting  at 


various  points  some  of  the  grandest 
scenery  on  the  continent.  This  country 
is  entirely  volcanic,  and  abounds  in  boil- 
ing springs,  mud-volcanoes,  huge  moun- 
tains of  sulphur,  and  geysers  more  ex- 
tensive and  numerous  than  those  of  Ice- 
land.” 

Ylie  BLiOwer  Csiiioii.  — “The 
lower  canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  as  a 
single  isolated  piece  of  scenery,  is  very 
beautiful.  It  is  less  than  a mile  in 
length,  and  perhaps  does  not  exceed 
1,000  feet  in  depth.  Its  walls  are  verti- 
cal, and,  seen  from  the  summit  of  the 
precipice,  the  river  seems  forced  though 
a narrow  gorge,  and  is  surging  and  boil- 
ing at  a fearful  rate — the  water  breaking 
into  millions  of  prismatic  drops  against 
every  projecting  rock.” 

YBie  1> evil’s  Sli<le. — “ After 
travelling  six  miles  over  the  mountains 
.above  the  canon,  we  again  descended  in- 
to a broad  and  open  valley,  skirted  by  a 
level  upland  for  several  miles.  Here  an 
object  met  our  attention  which  deserves 
more  than  a casual  notice.  It  was  two 
parallel  vertical  walls  of  rock,  projecting 
from  the  side  of  a mountain  to  the  height 
of  125  feet,  traversing  the  mountain 
from  base  to  summit,  a distance  of  1,500 
feet.  These  walls  were  not  to  exceed 
thirty  feet  in  width,  and  their  tops  for 
the  whole  length  were  crowned  with  a 
growth  of  pines.  The  sides  were  as 
even  as  if  they  had  been  worked  by  line 
and  plumb — the  whole  space  between, 
and  on  either  side  of  them,  having  been 
completely  eroded  and  washed  away.  We 
had  seen  many  of  the  capricious  works 
wrought  by  erosion  upon  the  friable 
rocks  of  Montana,  but  never  before  up- 
on so  majestic  a scale.  Here  an  entire 
mountain-side,  by  wind  and  water,  had 
been  removed,  leaving,  as  the  evidences  of 
their  protracted  toil,  these  vertical  pro- 
jections, which,  but  for  their  immensity, 
might  as  readily  be  mistaken  for  works 
of  art  as  of  nature.  Their  smooth  sides, 
uniform  width  and  height,  and  ^reat 
length,  considered  in  connection  with  the 
causes  which  had  wrought  their  insula- 
tion, excited  our  wonder  and  admiration. 
They  were  all  the  more  curious  because 
of  their  dissimilarity  to  any  other  strik- 
ing objects  in  natural  scenery  that  we 
had  ever  seen  or  heard  of.  In  future 
249 


The  Great  Canon.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[The  Giantess  Geyser. 


years,  when  the  wonders  of  the  Yellow- 
stone arc  incorporated  into  the  family  of 
fashionable  resorts,  there  will  be  few  of 
its  attractions  surpassing  in  interest  this 
marvellous  freak  of  the  elements.  For 
some  reason  best  understood  by  himself, 
one  of  our  companions  gave  to  these 
rocks  the  name  of  the  ‘ DeviTs  Slide.’  ” 
T’Ue  Oreat  Canon. — “ The  Great 
Falls  are  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  canons  in  the  world — a gorge 
through  volcanic  rocks  fifty  miles  long, 
and  varying  from  one  thousand  to  nearly 
five  thousand  feet  in  depth.  In  its  de- 
scent through  this  wonderful  chasm  the 
river  falls  almost  three  thousand  feet. 
At  one  point,  where  the  passage  has  been 
worn  through  a mountain-range,  our 
hunters  assured  us  it  was  more  than  a 
vertical  mile  in  depth,  and  the  river, 
broken  into  rapids  and  cascades,  ap- 
peared no  wider  than  a ribbon.  The 
brain  reels  as  we  gaze  into  this  profound 
and  solemn  solitude.  We  shrink  from 
the  dizzy  verge  appalled,  glad  to  feel  the 
solid  earth  under  our  feet,  and  venture 
no  more,  except  with  forms  extended,  and 
faces  barely  protruding  over  the  edge  of 
the  precipice.  The  stillness  is  horrible. 
Down,  down,  down,  we  see  the  river  at- 
tenuated to  a thread,  tossing  its  minia- 
ture waves,  and  dashing,  with  puny 
strength,  the  massive  walls  which  im- 
prison it.  All  access  to  its  margin  is 
denied,  and  the  dark-gray  rocks  hold  it 
in  dismal  shadow.  Even  the  voice  of  its 
waters  in  their  convulsive  agony  cannot 
be  heard.  Uncheered  by  plant  or  shrub, 
obstructed  with  massive  bowlders  and 
jutting  points,  it  rushes  madly  on  its 
solitary  course,  deeper  and  deeper  into 
the  bowels  of  the  rocky  firmament.  The 
solemn  grandeur  of  the  scene  surpasses 
description.  It  must  be  seen  to  be  felt. 
The  sense  of  danger  with  which  it  im- 
presses you  is  harrowing  in  the  extreme. 
You  feel  the  absence  of  sound,  the  op- 
pression of  absolute  silence.  If  you 
could  only  hear  that  gurgling  river,  if 
you  could  see  a living  tree  in  the  depth 
beneath  you,  if  a bird  would  fly  past, 
if  the  wind  would  move  any  object  in 
the  awful  chasm,  to  break  for  a moment 
the  solemn  silence  that  reigns  there,  it 
would  relieve  that  tension  of  the  nerves 
which  the  scene  has  excited,  and  you 
2m 


would  rise  from  your  prostrate  condition 
and  thank  God  that  He  had  permitted 
you  to  gaze,  unharmed,  upon  this  majes- 
tic display  of  natural  architecture.  As  it 
is,  sympathizing  in  spirit  with  the  deep 
gloom  of  the  scene,  you  crawl  from  the 
awful  verge,  scared  lest  the  firm  rock 
give  way  beneath  and  precipitate  you 
into  the  horrid  gulf.” 

Xlie  Mudl- Volcano. — “While 
returning  by  a new  route  to  our  camp,  dull, 
thundering  sounds,  which  General  Wash- 
burn likened  to  frequent  discharges  of  a 
distant  mortar,  broke  upon  our  ears.  We 
followed  their  direction,  and  found  them 
to  proceed  from  a mud-volcano,  which 
occupied  the  slope  of  a small  hill  embow- 
ered in  a grove  of  pines.  Dense  volumes 
of  steam  shot  into  the  air  with  each 
report,  through  a crater  thirty  feet  in 
diameter.  The  reports,  though  irregular, 
occurred  as  often  as  every  five  seconds, 
and  could  be  distinctly  heard  half  a mile. 
Each  alternate  report  shook  the  ground 
a distance  of  two  hundred  yards  or  more, 
and  the  massive  jets  of  vapor  which  ac- 
companied them  burst  forth  like  the  smoke 
of  burning  gunpowder.  It  was  impossible 
to  stand  on  the  edge  of  that  side  of  the 
crater  opposite  the  wind,  and  one  of  our 
party,  Mr.  Hedges,  was  rewarded  for  his 
temerity  in  venturing  too  near  the  rim, 
by  being  thrown  by  the  force  of  the  vol- 
ume of  steam  violently  down  the  outer 
side  of  the  crater.  From  hasty  views, 
afforded  by  occasional  gusts  of  wind,  we 
could  see  at  a depth  of  sixty  feet  the 
regurgitating  contents.” 

Xlae  Oeyser. — “ ‘ The  Gi- 

ant ’ has  a rugged  crater,  ten  feet  in  diam- 
eter on  the  outside,  with  an  irregular  ori- 
fice five  or  six  feet  in  diameter.  It  dis- 
charges a vast  quantity  of  water,  and  the 
only  time  we  saw  it  in  eruption  the  flow 
of  water  in  a column  five  feet  in  diame- 
ter, one  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  verti- 
cal height,  continued  uninterruptedly  for 
nearly  three  hours.  The  crater  resembles 
a miniature  model  of  the  Coliseum.” 
Xlie  Oia^ntess  Cf  eyser. — “ Our 
search  for  new  wonders  leading  us  across 
the  Fire  Hole  River,  we  ascended  a gentle, 
incrusted  slope,  and  came  suddenly  upon  a 
large  oval  aperture  with  scalloped  edges, 
the  diameters  of  which  were  eighteen  and 
twenty-five  feet,  the  sides  corrugated  and 


0^ 

The  Giantess  Geyser.]  MONTANA.  [Snake  or  Shoshone  River. 


covered  with  a grayish-white  silicious  de- 
posit, which  was  distinctly  visible  at  the 
depth  of  one  hundred  feet  below  the  sur- 
face. No  water  could  be  discovered,  but 
we  could  distinctly  hear  it  gurgling  and 
boiling  at  a great  distance  below.  Sud- 
denly it  began  to  rise,  boiling  and  splut- 
tering, and  sending  out  huge  masses  of 
steam,  causing  a general  stampede  of  our 
company,  driving  us  some  distance  from 
our  point  of  observation.  When  within 
about  forty  feet  of  the  surface  it  became 
stationary,  and  we  returned  to  look  down 
upon  it.  It  was  surging  and  foaming  at 
a terrible  rate,  occasionally  emitting  small 
jets  of  hot  water  nearly  to  the  mouth  of 
the  orifice.  All  at  once  it  seemed  seized 
with  a fearful  spasm,  and  rose  with  in- 
credible rapidity,  hardly  affording  us  time 
to  flee  to  a safe  distance,  when  it  burst 
from  the  orifice  with  terrific  momentum, 
rising  in  a column  the  full  size  of  this  im- 
mense aperture  to  the  height  of  sixty  feet ; 
and,  through  and  out  of  the  apex  of  this 
vast  aqueous  mass,  live  or  six  lesser  jets 
or  round  columns  of  water,  varying  in 
size  from  six  to  fifteen  inches  in  diame- 
ter, were  projected  to  the  marvellous 
height  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
These  lesser  jets,  so  much  higher  than 
the  main  column,  and  shooting  through 
it,  doubtless  proceed  from  auxiliary  pipes 
leading  into  the  principal  orifice  near  the 
bottom,  where  the  explosive  force  is 
greater.  If  the  theory  that  water  by 
constant  boiling  becomes  explosive  when 
freed  from  air  be  true,  this  theory  ration- 
ally accounts  for  all  irregularities  in  the 
eruptions  of  the  geysers. 

“ This  grand  eruption  continued  for 
twenty  minutes,  and  was  the  most  mag- 
nificent sight  we  ever  witnessed.  We 
were  standing  on  the  side  of  the  geyser 
nearest  the  sun,  the  gleams  of  which 
filled  the  sparkling  column  of  water  and 
spray  with  myriads  of  rainbows,  whose 
arches  were  constantly  changing, — dip- 
ping and  fluttering  hither  and  thither,  and 
disappearing  only  to  be  succeeded  by  oth- 
ers, again  and  again,  amid  the  aqueous 
column,  while  the  minute  globules  into 
which  the  spent  jets  were  diffused  when 
falling,  sparkled  like  a shower  of  dia- 
monds, and  around  every  shadow  which 
the  denser  clouds  of  vapor,  interrupting 
the  sun’s  rays,  cast  upon  the  column, 


could  be  seen  a luminous  circle,  radiant 
with  all  the  colors  of  the  prism,  and  re- 
sembling the  halo  of  glory  represented 
in  paintings  as  encircling  the  head  of 
Divinity.  This  geyser  we  named  ‘ The 
Giantess.’” 

By  act  of  Congress,  passed  March  1, 
ISV^,  the  whole  of  the  region  described 
above,  embracing  upward  of  200  square 
miles  was  made  a National  Park,  “to  be 
kept  inviolate  forever.” 

routes. 

The  principal  routes  to  the  Territory 
are  the  overland  route  from  Corinne, 
Utah,  on  the  Union  Pacific  Railway 
page  112),  via  Bear  River,  and  Bannack 
to  Virginia  City  and  Helena;  and  the 
Missouri  River  route  to  Fort  Benton  (see 
Tours  op  the  Great  Lakes  and  Rivers, 
No.  III.).  The  latter  cannot  be  travelled 
except  during  the  rise  of  the  river,  which 
usually  takes  place  in  June,  and  ordina- 
rily affords  navigation  for  about  six  weeks. 
Fort  Union,  400  miles  below  Fort  Benton, 
is  the  head  of  summer  navigation.  Until 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  reaches  Mon- 
tana, for  all  practical  purposes  of  travel 
the  overland  route  from  Corinne  can  be 
the  only  one  used.  Wells,  Fargo  & Co. 
run  a daily  line  of  stages,  carrying  the 
United  States  mail  and  express  to  Vir- 
ginia City  (358  miles)  and  to  Helena  (482 
miles).  From  Fort  Benton,  via  Mullan’s 
Pass  and  Stevens’s  Pass  to  Walla-Walla, 
Oregon,  a distance  of  618  miles,  the  road 
crosses  the  northern  part  of  the  Territory. 

Leaving  Corinne  by  stage,  we  pass 
some  thriving  Mormon  villages  of  dull- 
brown  adobe  houses,  and  are  soon  out  of 
the  Territory  of  Utah. 

After  crossing  the  Idaho  line  a little 
north  of  Bear  River,  the  road  lies  through 
Port  Neuf  Canon,  30  miles  long,  and 
soon  after  the  traveller  reaches 

"File  or  ^l&oslione 

IS-iver,  the  old  Lewis  Fork  of  the 
Columbia,  This  great  river  rises  in  the 
mountainous  region  of  Southeastern  Ida- 
ho, and  flows  northwestward  into  Wash- 
ington Territory.  It  is  about  900  miles 
long  from  its  source  to  its  junction  with 
the  Columbia,  and,  just  before  it  reaches 
the  noble  valley  of  the  latter  river,  it  makes 
a series  of  very  abrupt  descents, from  its 
elevated  channel  in  the  Blue  Mountains. 

251 


Bannack.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[IIelena, 


{ See  ch  apt cr  on  Idaho.  ) After  a long  j our- 
ney,  it  bids  a final  adieu  to  the  rocks  and 
gorges  through  which  it  has  been  strug- 
gling for  so  many  miles,  and  enters  the 
beautiful  valley,  watered  by  four  noble 
rivers,  and  enclosed  on  all  sides  by  the 
Rocky  and  Blue  Mountains,  and  the  Cas- 
cades. This  valley  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and,  if  ex- 
plorers are  to  be  trusted,  on  the  entire 
continent.  Beyond  Snake  River  the  road 
crosses  miles  of  sand.  To  the  east  rise 
the  Three  Tkons^  a spur  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  called  by  the  Indians  the 
“Three  Pinnacles.”  Climbing  over  the 
“divide”  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  just 
beyond  Pleasant  Valley  Station^  we  leave 
the  Pacific  slope  behind,  entering  Montana 
among  the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri. 

ISaiiitacIi:,  the  pioneer  town  of 
Montana,  is  first  reached.  It  lies  in  the 
gulch  of  Grasshopper  Creek,  enclosed  by 
lofty  mountains,  70  miles  from  Virginia 
City  and  400  from  Salt  Lake  City. 

Tirg’iiaia  City,  the  capital  and 
chief  city  of  Montana,  is  situated  on 
Alder  Creek,  a tributary  of  Jefferson’s 
Fork  of  the  Missouri.  It  was  settled  in 
July,  1862,  and  with  its  suburbs,  Nevada 
City  and  Junction^  contains  a population 
of  between  6,000  and  8,000.  Alder  Gulch 
is  about  13  miles  in  length,  and  presents, 


to  the  eye  of  one  unacquainted  wdtli 
mining  operations,  a curious  spectacle. 
Millions  of  dollars  of  gold  have  been  taken 
out  of  it.  Stages  and  stage  expresses 
leave  daily  and  tri-weekly  for  Helena, 
Bannack,  and  Salmon  River,  Silver  Bow, 
Red  Mountain  City,  Deer  Lodge,  Black- 
foot,  Reynolds  City,  Beartown,  and  Hell- 
gate. 

Between  Virginia  City  and  Helena  the 
distance,  120  miles,  is  usually  travelled 
by  stage  in  14  to  16  hours.  Views  of  the 
junction  of  the  Jefferson,  Gallatin,  and 
Madison  Forks,  which  form  the  Missouri, 
and  of  the  Hot  Springs^  four  miles  from 
Helena,  and  White-tailed  Deer  Canon, 
are  obtained  en  route.  These  springs 
have  fine  medicinal  properties,  and  are 
much  frequented  by  visitors  from  He- 
lena. 

Melensi  is  a thriving  young  city, 
with  a population  of  nearly  10,000.  It  is 
the  supply-point  of  the  rich  placer-mines 
of  the  Blackfoot  country  and  other  sec- 
tions of  Northern  Montana,  embracing 
some  of  the  most  valuable  diggings  on  the 
continent.  It  is  18  miles  west  of  the  Mis- 
souri River,  and  120  miles  north  of  Vir- 
ginia City.  The  first  settlement  was  made 
here  in  Last  Chance  Gulch^  in  the  fall  of 
1864.  In  the  vicinity  are  extensive  quar- 
ries of  granite  and  blue  limestone. 

{See  Appendix.) 


IDAHO. 


Idaho  was  organized  as  a Territory, 
March  3,  1863.  Its  area  was  originally 
243,300  square  miles,  but  of  this  immense 
area  Montana  has  now  nearly  two-thirds, 
leaving  Idaho  only  about  90,000  square 
miles.  It  is  formed  from  the  eastern 
halves  of  the  old  Washington  and  Oregon 
Territories,  the  western  half  of  Nebraska, 
and  a small  part  of  Northern  Utah.  It 
extends  from  Utah  and  Nevada  on  the 
south  to  the  British  possessions  on  the 
north.  It  is  said  that  the  Indian  word 
Idaho  is,  in  English,  “ a star ; ” and  again, 
that  it  stands  for  “ the  gem  of  the  moun- 
tains.” The  Idaho  region  includes  the 
rich  gold-fields  of  Salmon  River,  a stream 
of  remarkably  picturesque  beauty,  flow- 
ing, here  and  there,  between  grand  per- 
252 


pendicular  walls  varying  in  height  from 
500  to  2,000  feet.  The  very  recent  and 
rapid  settlement  of  Idaho,  commenced 
within  two  or  three  years  past,  has  grown 
out  of  the  gold  discoveries.  These  dis- 
coveries attracted  thousands  of  adven- 
turers from  California,  who  soon  after- 
ward pushed  their  explorations  toward 
Eastern  Oregon  and  Western  Idaho. 
From  that  period  to  the  present  a steady 
and  increasing  tide  of  immigration  has 
set  thitherward,  and  the  resources  of  the 
land  are  being  daily  revealed  and  utilized, 
both  in  its  mineral  stores  and  its  capaci- 
ties in  soil,  climate,  etc.  Settlements  are 
rapidly  growing  up,  roads  are  being  con- 
structed, the  waters  are  navigated,  schools 
and  churches  are  appearing,  with  all 


Boisee  or  Bois6  City.] 


IDAHO. 


[Great  Shoshone  Falls. 


other  adjuncts  of  permanent  and  pro- 
gressive civilization. 

Minerals. — The  mineral  resources  of 
Idaho  compare  well  with  those  of  the 
other  valuable  mining  portions  of  the 
great  Rocky  Mountain  region.  Gold  is 
found  in  most  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone.  Platina, 
too,  has  been  obtained  in  small  quantities, 
while  extensive  deposits  of  this: valuable 
metal  are  supposed  to  exist.  Copper, 
iron,  and  salt,  are  abundant ; and  coal  is 
found  upon  the  Pacific  slope  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  on  the  Upper  Missouri 
and  Yellowstone  Rivers. 

The  climate  of  the  Idaho  region  is  bleak 
in  the  mountain-ranges,  but  mild  and 
agreeable  in  the  valley  districts. 

Boise  is  the  capital,  and  Idaho  City, 
Lewiston,  Ruby  City,  and  Star  City,  the 
principal  towns. 

The  population  of  the  Territory  is  given 
by  the  census  of  1870  as  14,998,  and  the 
total  valuation  of  real  estate  and  personal 
property,  $5,292,145. 

KOUTES. 

The  leading  approaches  to  the  Terri- 
tory are  from  the  Pacific  by  the  Hum- 
boldt route  from  Hunter’s  Station,  on 
the  overland  (Wells,  Fargo  & Co.’s)  mail 
line  to  Boise,  the  capital,  from  the  Cen- 
tral Pacific  Railway,  or  from  Portland, 
Oregon,  by  way  of  the  Columbia  and 
Snake  Rivers  to  Lewiston,  and  from 
Umatilla  and  Wallula  to  Boise  and  Idaho 
Cities.  From  Salt  Lake  City,  via  Bear 
River  (84  miles),  to  Boise  (393  miles). 

15  o i s e e or  Hoise  City,  the 
capital  and  chief  commercial  town  of 
Idaho,  is  situated  on  a level  plain  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Boise  River,  about  30 
miles  southwest  of  Idaho  city,  300  miles 
northwest  of  Great  Salt  Lake  City,  and 
is  reached  by  stage  from  Winnemucca, 
on  the  Central  Pacific  Railway  {see  page 
115),  and  also  by  stage  from  Indian 
Creek  (Kelton).  It  became  the  capital  in 
1864.  Its  broad,  level,  treeless  avenues, 
with  their  low,  white-verandaed  ware- 
houses, log  cabins,  new,  neat  cottages, 
and  ever-shifting  panorama  of  wagons 
and  coaches,  Indians,  miners,  farmers, 
and  speculators,  remind  one  of  a prairie- 
town  in  Kansas  or  Iowa.  It  is  overlooked 
by  Fort  Boise^  which  has  a noble  parade- 


ground,  surrounded  by  tasteful  buildings 
of  sand-stone,  and  is  the  most  beautiful 
of  all  our  frontier  posts,  except  Fort  Da- 
vis, in  Texas. 

Ruby  City.,  Silver  City.,  and  Boonville., 
are  trading  towns  in  the  mountain  min- 
ing district  of  Owyhee.  They  are  reached 
over  a rough,  dreary  road  from  Boise  in 
one  day.  Ruby  City  is  in  the  heart  of 
the  Owyhee  district,  and  6 miles  from  the 
Oregon  line.  It  stands  at  the  bottom  of 
a deep  canon,  overlooked  by  mountain- 
summits  which  tower  from  800  to  1,500 
feet  above  it.  War  Eagle,  the  highest, 
is  2,000  feet  above  the  town  and  5,000 
feet  above  the  sea.  This  mountain  is 
rich  in  mineral.  The  Morning  Star  and 
Oro  Fino  Mills  should  be  visited. 

"Tlie  Oreat  Slioslaoiie  Falls* 
(Shoshone  River,  see  page  251),  185  miles 
from  Boise  City,  and  6 miles  from  the 
stage-road,  should  be  visited.  They 
are  described  as  follows  by  Ross  Browne : 
“ The  river  for  many  miles,  both  above 
and  below,  passes  through  a volcanic 
valley.  It  has  cut  a perpendicular  canon 
through  the  layers  of  lava  to  the  depth 
of  about  one  thousand  feet.  The  canon 
is  generally  about  half  a mile  wide.  At 
the  point  where  the  falls  are  located  it  is 
nearly  a mile  wide.  Viewed  from  below 
it  appears  circular,  like  a vast  amphi- 
theatre, with  the  falls  in  the  centre. 
The  different  layers  of  lava  resemble 
seats  in  tiers  ranged  one  above  another 
to  a height  of  seven  hundred  feet  above 
the  head  of  the  falls.  In  the  narrowest 
part  the  water  is  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  wide.  About  four  hundred  yards 
above  the  main  falls  are  five  islands,  at 
nearly  equal  intervals  across  the  river, 
dividing  the  stream  into  six  parts.  As 
the  water  passes  between  the  islands  it 
is  precipitated  twenty-five  or  thirty  feet. 
The  falls  differ  essentially  from  each  other 
in  form,  affording  great  variety.  Below 
the  islands  the  water  unites  and  passes 
in  an  unbroken  sheet  over  the  great  fall ; 
the  descent  is  about  two  hundred  feet. 
The  semicircle  at  the  head  of  the  falls  is 
apparently  perfect,  and  the  leap  as  clear 
as  that  of  Niagara.  Enormous  clouds  of 
mist  and  spray  arise,  variegated  with 
rainbows.  At  the  foot  are  rushing  show- 
ers of  spray,  from  under  which  the  water, 
beaten  into  foam,  dashes  furiously  away. 

253 


Great  Shoshone  Falls.] 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [Great  Salt  Lake  Valley. 


Occasionally  can  be  seen  through  the  fly- 
ing mists  the  immense  sheet  of  water 
standing  out  in  bold  relief  from  the  rocks, 
showing  that  with  proper  appliances  it  is 
practicable  to  go  behind,  as  at  Niagara. 
A few  hundred  yards  farther  down,  the 
water  swings  slowly  around  in  a huge 
whirlpool  and  then  disappears  in  the 
black  canon  below.  The  delicate  pris- 
matic colors  of  the  rainbow  and  the 
graceful,  evanescent  forms  of  the  mist 
contrast  strangely  with  the  iron-black 
surface,  hard  outlines,  and  awful  forms 
of  the  overhanging  basalt.  The  sound 
of  the  rushing  waters  resembles  that  of 
an  orchestra,  the  small  falls  giving  the 
high  notes,  and  the  great  falls  the  bass, 
producing  a combination  not  possible  to 
obtain  from  a single  undivided  current. 
At  Rock-Creek  Station,  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant, it  can  be  heard  distinctly — not  con- 


tinuously, but  at  intervals,  like  the  surf. 
When  the  notes  strike  in  unison  they  can 
be  heard  at  a greater  distance.” 

is  at  the  junction  of  the 
Snake  and  Clearwater  Rivers,  at  the 
head  of  steamboat  navigation.  It  is 
reached  by  stage  from  Wallula  {see 
Washington  Territory),  and  in  summer 
by  steamers  from  Dalles. 

Idabo  City  (formerly  Bannack)  is 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  Elk  and 
Moore’s  Creeks,  in  the  midst  of  the  placer 
gold-mines  of  the  Boise  Basin.  Boise  City 
is  36  miles  distant.  A fire  destroyed  a great 
part  of  the  town  in  May,  1865,  but  it  has 
been  wholly  rebuilt.  It  is  reached  by  stage 
from  Winnemucca  {see  page  115),  and 
connects  by  stage  with  Umatilla,  Oregon. 

The  mining  town  of  Buena  Vista  Bar^ 
opposite  Idaho  City,  has  a population  of 
about  2,000.  {Sec  Appendix.) 


UTAH. 


Utah  was  formerly  peopled  entirely 
by  Indians,  principally  by  the  various 
tribes  of  Utes,  from  -whom  it  takes  its 
name.  It  was  settled  by  the  Mormons, 
in  184'7.  It  extends  from  the  37th  to 
the  42d  parallels  of  north  latitude,  and 
to  the  114th  degree  of  west  longitude, 
occupying  an  area  of  about  82,000  square 
miles,  of  which,  about  135,000  acres  are 
under  cultivation. 

The  climate  is  said  to  resemble  that  of 
the  great  Tartar  plains  of  Asia,  the  days 
in  summer-time  being  hot  and  the  nights 
cool.  The  winters  are  mild  in  the  val- 
leys, and,  except  in  the  mountain-ranges, 
but  little  snow  falls.  There  the  ther- 
mometer ranges  from  zero  to  30°  below 
for  days  and  even  weeks  together.  The 
temperature  is  liable  to  great  and  quick 
transitions  from  the  changing  currents 
of  the  winds. 

The  population  is  given  by  the  census 
of  1870  as  86,786.  Of  this.  Great  Salt 
Lake  County  contributes  18,337  inhab- 
itants ; Piute  County  gives  no  returns, 
the  settlers  having  been  driven  out  by 
Indians.  Utah  County  has  a popula- 
tion of  12,243.  In  consequence  of  the 
-ecent  great  rush  to  the  new  silver-mines, 
254 


the  population  of  the  Territory  has  been 
greatly  augmented.  The  total  valua- 
tion of  real  estate  and  personal  property 
in  Utah  is  given  by  the  census  of  1870 
as  $13,109,930,  against  $4,158,020  in 
1860. 

The  soil  of  Utah  is  filled  with  various 
mineral  substances,  such  as  salt,  soda, 
lime,  sulphur,  alkali,  etc.  In  many  places 
the  earth  looks  red,  like  blood,  or  white, 
like  flour,  according  as  the  minerals 
spoken  of  come  to  the  surface. 

So  much  of  the  wonders  of  Utah  sce- 
nery has  been  described  in  the  chapter  on 
the  Pacific  Railway  (Route  XVIII.)  which 
traverses  the  northern  portion  of  the 
Territory,  that  but  few  points  of  interest 
remain  to  be  spoken  of. 

Tlie  Oreat  Salt  I^alce  Val- 
ley cuts  through  the  centre  of  the  Ter- 
ritory like  the  section  of  a tunnel,  and 
rises  on  all  sides  into  level  benches  or 
terraces  one  above  the  other,  supposed 
to  be  ancient  water-marks,  and  still  be- 
yond these,  evenly  indented  in  the  moun- 
tain-sides for  many  miles  other  benches 
rise,  so  that  one  cannot  tell  where  the 
valley  ends  and  the  mountains  commence. 
The  extent  of  the  former  is  variouslv  cs- 


Salt  Mountain.] 


UTAH. 


[The  Emma  Minis, 


timatcd  from  70  to  100  miles  from  north 
CO  south,  and  from  30  to  60  miles  from 
east  to  west,  according  as  these  great 
level  stretches  are  taken  into  the  compu- 
tation or  not.  The  valley  is  4,000  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  is  consequently  above 
dew  point.  The  atmosphere  here  is  so 
rarefied  that  it  is  often  the  means  of 
greatly  deceiving  strangers  as  to  dis- 
tances ; a place  that  one  supposes  to  be 
within  a stone’s-throw  being  often  two 
or  three  miles  distant. 

Tlie  ^reat  Salt  lialte  has 
been  described  on  page  113. 

Salt  Moamtaia,  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  Territory,  on  the  Colorado 
River^  is  a mountain  of  solid  salt,  clear 
as  crystal,  and  somewhat  resembling  a 
huge  iceberg. 

The  scenery  of  Utah  affords  continual 
surprises  for  the  tourist.  He  sees  im- 
mense canons  winding  around  the  moun- 
tains in  every  possible  form ; beautiful 
lakes  burst  on  his  view  in  the  most  un- 
expected places,  while  towering  bluffs, 
deep  ravines,  narrow  gorges,  and  lofty 
mountain-ranges,  snow-capped  and  bar- 
ren, go  to  make  up  a series  of  natural 
pictures  which,  for  diversity  in  beauty 
and  grandeur,  can  scarcely  be  excelled. 

'Tlae  1/Varm.  Spring’s,  which 
are  about  two  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake 
City,  and  the  Hot  Springs,  a little  farther 
north,  are  worth  visiting.  Various  medi- 
cinal virtues  are  ascribed  to  the  waters 
of  the  former,  whose  temperature  is  set 
down  as  102°  Eahrenheit.  A comforta- 
ble bathing-house  has  been  built  at  this 
place. 

'File  Hot  Springs  gush  out  of 
rocks,  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  into 
a narrow  basin,  throwing  off  an  oppres- 
sive sulphurous  odor.  Their  temperature 
is  so  much  above  that  of  the  Warm 
Springs  that  no  one  can  bathe  in  the  wa- 
ters. It  has  been  asserted  by  some  trav- 
ellers that  eggs  can  be  boiled  in  them, 
which  may  be  true,  but  they  cannot  be 
cooked  in  five  minutes.  The  tempera- 
ture is  so  high,  however,  that  if  the  vis- 
itor tries  to  test  it  by  thrusting  his  fingers 
in  the  springs,  he  will  certainly  scald 
them.  Some  of  the  water  was  analyzed  by 
Dr.  Charles  Jackson,  of  Boston,  in  1849. 
In  his  report  he  says : “ Three  fluid  ounces 
of  the  water  on  evaporation  to  entire  dry- 


ness in  a platina  capsule,  gave  8.25  grains 
of  solid,  dry  saline  matter,  composed  of 
lime,  soda,  magnesia,  sulphuric  acid,  chlo- 
rine, peroxide  of  iron,  and  carbonate  of 
lime  and  magnesia.”  This  class  of  springs 
abounds  in  the  Great  Basin,  and  through- 
out the  Territory.  They  are  all  more  or 
less  impregnated  with  sulphur  and  other 
mineral  substances.  In  some  places  they 
are  found  high  up  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  and,  on  evaporation,  the  sa- 
line substances  form  basins,  or  perhaps 
miniature  lakes,  with  rims  of  white  all 
fretted  and  carved  as  no  human  hand 
could  imitate. 

Small  tovTis  and  thriving  settlements 
lie  north  and  south  of  the  Territory  for 
hundreds  of  miles.  They  are  all  divided 
into  wards,  and  each  has  its  meeting- 
house, used  for  all  purposes — from  dan- 
cing to  preaching — its  presiding  -bishop, 
with  his  counsellors,  and  teachers.  A 
telegraph-line  extends  through  the  entire 
length  of  the  Territory. 

St.  Oeorgfe,  the  capital  of  Wash- 
ington County,  is  a prosperous  town  of 
about  3,000  inhabitants,  being  the  centre 
of  some  30  settlements,  lying  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  Territory.  This 
“ Southern  Colony  ” is  peopled  princi- 
pally by  Mormons,  presided  over  by  one 
of  the  Twelve  Apostles,  each  settlement 
having  a bishop.  The  district  is  well 
cultivated,  and  produces  all  kinds  of 
fruit.  The  grape  and  pear  grow  in  abun- 
dance, and  wheat,  corn,  cotton,  sorghum, 
and  the  castor-bean,  are  cultivated  with 
profit.  St.  George  has  a handsome  stone 
church,  several  school-houses,  and  a the- 
atre. It  is  reached  by  stage  from  Salt 
Lake  City,  via  Fillmore.  {/Seepage  109.) 

THE  NEW  MINING  DISTRICTS. 

For  many  years  it  has  been  known 
that  gold  and  silver  existed  in  Utah,  but 
it  is  but  comparatively  recently  that  the 
precious  metals  have  been  found  in  quan- 
tity sufficiently  great  to  warrant  such  an 
extraordinary  rush  to  the  mines  as  two 
years  have  witnessed. 

Tlie  Slmma.  Mine. — ^The  most 
profitable  mine  in  the  Territory  is  the 
Emma,  which  is  situated  in  Little  Cotton- 
wood Canon,  in  the  Mountain  Lake  Dis- 
trict, southeast  of  Salt  Lake  City,  and 
about  25  miles  from  the  terminus  of  tlio 
255 


SiLVEROPOi.is,  Etc.,  Mines.]  WESTERN  TOUR. 


[East  CajJon  City. 


TJiah  Central  p.  109). 

At  a depth  of  127  feet  the  “ prospectors  ” 
of  this  mine  struck  a lode  of  mineral  of  vast 
extent,  which  it  is  said  yields  a profit  on 
shipments  made  to  Swansea,  in  Wales, 
of  about  $120  a ton.  Many  thousands 
of  tons  of  ore  are,  by  actual  measure- 
ment, in  sight  in  the  Emma  mine.  There 
are  many  mineral  lodes  now  being  worked 
in  the  Little  Cottonwood  Canon^  and  also 
in  the  Big  Cottonwood  and  the  American 
Forh^  which  are  adjacent  thereto,  which 
yield  ore  equal  to,  and  in  some  cases  far 
exceeding  in  value,  that  taken  from  the 
Emma  mine ; but  in  quantity  of  ore  the 
Emma  probably  has  no  equal  in  Utah. 

At  the  head  of  Little  Cottonwood  some 
rich  ore  was  mined,  and  a good  deal  of 
money  was  wasted,  between  1864  and 
1868.  For  1869-70  a certain  shaft  in 
that  locality,  following  a small  seam  of 
ore,  at  the  depth  of  100  feet  or  so,  began 
to  lose  itself  in  an  immense  bed  of  argen- 
tiferous galena,  worth  $200  per  ton  gross, 
from  which  4,000  to  5,000  tons  were 
taken  during  eight  months  ending  April, 
1871,  and  shipped  chiefly  to  Liverpool 
for  reduction.  The  present  workings  in 
this  mine  are  said  iDy  the  initiated  to 
expose  30,000  tons  of  ore,  with  no  ap- 
parent signs  of  exhaustion.  It  costs 
$70  a ton  to  reduce  this  ore  to  coin  or 
bank-notes,  viz. : for  mining,  $3.50 ; 

sacking,  $5  ; hauling  to  the  depot  of 
the  Utah  Central  Railway  in  Salt  Lake 
City,  $10 ; transportation  to  Liverpool, 
$33.75;  charges  there  for  reducing,  etc., 
$16  coin. 

The  Emma  Mine  has  recently  been 
sold  to  a great  stock-company,  most  of 
the  stock  being  sold  in  London.  Great 
promises  were  made,  and  the  project 
caused  a genuine  sensation  in  the  Euro- 
pean market — with  what  result  remains 
to  be  seen. 

'H'lie  Silveropolis  and 

rock. — These  mines,  which  are  in  East 
Canon,  60  miles  southwest  of  Salt  Lake 
City,  are  very  rich.  Ore  has  been  taken 
from  the  former  that  assayed  over  $20,000 
to  the  ton;  and  a large  quantity  taken 
from  the  Shamrock  has  yielded  $27,000 
to  the  ton.  These  are,  indeed,  exceptional 
cases,  but  all  the  mines  which  have  been 
developed  anywhere  in  the  Territory  are 
rich,  both  as  to  the  quantity  and  quality 
256 


of  their  ores.  Old  and  experienced  miners 
from  California  and  Nevada  say  that,  in 
all  their  experience,  they  never  before 
met  with  any  district  which  could  com- 
pare with  the  mines  of  Utah.  It  is  a 
common  saying  with  them,  “ Wherever 
we  put  a spade  we  find  ore ; ’’  and  the 
deeper  they  go,  the  richer  the  ore  gets. 
Ores  have  been  found  in  entirely  new 
districts  which  yielded  more  than  $600 
per  ton  net. 

Some  25  lots  or  20  car-loads,  of 400,000 
pounds  each,  of  argentiferous  galena  were 
shipped  by  the  Pacific  Railway  to  New 
York  during  the  winter  of  1870-71  for 
conveyance  to  Liverpool.  A great  many 
new  mines  are  opening.  It  is  estimated 
that  over  seventy-five  car-loads  of  ore  are 
shipped  from  Utah  every  day,  of  which 
the  greater  part  is  mined  in  Little  Cot- 
tonwood Canon,  at  a point  about  25  miles 
from  the  city  in  which  Brigham  Young 
lives.  Gold,  as  well  as  silver,  has  been 
found  in  combination  with  lead  and  other 
base  metals  in  Utah,  but  nine-tenths  of 
the  mineral  veins  yet  discovered  have 
been  of  silver-bearing  lead.  In  describ- 
ing the  great  mine  in  Little  Cottonwood 
Canon,  the  expression  “ lake  of  mineral  ” 
is  used  as  if  with  reference  to  its  original 
formation,  and  surveys  have  as  yet  failed 
to  define  its  extent,  but  it  is  believed  to 
be  vast.  Gold-washing  has  been  carried 
on  extensively  for  some  time  in  Brig- 
ham Canon.  It  is  estimated  that  over 
$3,000,000  worth  of  dust  has  been  sold 
from  that  canon  alone.  The  lead-ores, 
or  argentiferous  galenas,  contain  from  50 
to  1,000  ounces  of  silver  to  the  ton. 

A company  of  English  and  New  York 
capitalists  has  commenced  building  a 
road  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  East  Canon 
a distance  of  60  miles,  with  the  intenr 
tion  of  continuing  it  to  Tintic,  some  20 
miles  farther.  The  road  taps  the  different 
canons  on  the  route,  and  it  is  expected  to 
be  completed  as  far  as  East  Canon  very 
soon.  Brigham  Young  and  the  Church 
party  are  also  building  a road,  called  the 
U tah  Southern^  running  from  Salt  Lake 
City  through  the  mining-regions  to  New 
Mexico.  As  already  mentioned  in  Route 
XVIII.,  a short  railway  built  by  the  Mor- 
mons connects  Ogden  and  Salt  Lake  City. 

East  Canon  City,  in  Septem- 
ber, 1870,  consisted  of  only  two  or  three 


East  Ca^on  City.] 


UTAH. 


[The  Mormons, 


log-houses,  with  a few  miners  straggling 
around.  In  June,  1871,  there  were  300 
houses  there,  including  one  first-class  ho- 
tel, a French  restaurant,  an  ordinary  hotel, 
drug-stores,  groceries,  dry-goods  stores, 
hardware-stores,  physicians,  and  lawyers 
in  plenty. 

A correspondent  of  the  New-York  Sun 
who  visited  the  mines  in  May,  1871, 
says  : “In  East  Canon,  within  an  area  of 
a square  mile,  there  is  now  a population 
of  over  3,000  where  eight  months  ago 
there  were  not  twenty.  And  Brigham  Ca- 
non, Little  Cottonwood,  Big  Cottonwood, 
Stockton,  Tintic,  and  half  a dozen  other 
places  that  I visited,  have  increased  in 
something  like  the  same  ratio.  The  in- 
crease of  population  in  the  Territory, 
from  these  mining  discoveries,  is  from 
20,000  to  25,000  souls,  and  the  tide  is 
swelling  every  week.  The  price  of  prop- 
erty has  also  increased  with  great  rapid- 
ity. In  Salt  Lake  City  property  has  ad- 
vanced fully  100  per  cent.,  and  in  the 
mining  districts  prices  have  gone  up  from 
500  to  5,000  per  cent.  A mine  which 
was  offered  in  September  for  $6,000,  the 
owners  refused  $45,000  for  in  May,  with 
but  little  more  development  than  in  Sep- 
tember. 

MORMONISM  AKD  THE  MORMONS. 

The  following  sketch  of  Mormonism  is 
condensed  from  W.  F.  Rae’s  “Westward 
by  Rail : ” ' 

“ Ingenious  theories  have  been  ad- 
vanced to  explain  the  origin  and  success 
of  Mormonism.  Attractive  pictures  have 
been  limned  of  Mormon  society,  and 
plausible  reasons  put  forth  in  defence  of 
the  most  reprehensible  of  Mormon  prac- 
tices. A sweeping  condemnation  has,  in 
like  manner,  been  passed  upon  the  Saints ; 
it  has  been  denied  that  they  possess  a 
single  good  quality,  or  that  they  are  at 
all  better  than  the  savages  whom  they 
have  displaced.  If  the  best  that  has  been 
said  about  them  be  true,  it  does  not  enti- 
tle them  to  universal  esteem.  If  the 
worst  be  well  founded,  if  they  are  indeed 
hypocrites  and  rogues,  sour  fanatics  and 
intolerant  bigots,  the  blame  lies  at  the 
doors  of  those  who,  by  unjustly  and  cru- 
elly persecuting  them,  labored  to  make 
them  what  they  are.  Had  not  Joseph 


Smith  won  the  crown  of  martyrdom, 
Brigham  Young  might  never  have  gov- 
erned as  a despot. 

“ When  the  angel  Moroni  disclosed  to 
Joseph  Smith  the  reputed  secrets  which 
the  Prophet  communicated  to  the  world 
in  the  Book  of  Mormon,  the  minds  of  the 
younger  men  in  America  were  prepared 
to  hearken  to  a revelation.  Almost  con- 
temporaneously with  the  prophetic  utter- 
ance of  the  first  high-priest  of  the  Latter- 
Day  Saints,  Mr.  Owen  proclaimed  to  the 
people  of  the  United  States  his  scheme  for 
achieving  universal  happiness  by  group- 
ing mankind  in  parallelograms.  The  ex- 
citement which  this  proposal  occasioned 
was  due  to  the  avidity  of  the  public  for 
any  hints  which  might  clear  the  way  for 
the  regeneration  of  the  world.  A like 
eagerness  to  experiment  with  the  theo- 
ries of  Fourier  was  afterward  manifested. 
Joseph  Smith  had  this  enormous  superi- 
ority over  other  speculators,  that,  in  addi- 
tion to  indicating  the  path  toward  a more 
perfect  state,  he  provided  a new  religion 
as  a solace  for  those  who,  having  been 
buffeted  by  the  waves  of  doubt,  could  find 
no  anchorage  for  their  faith.  Moreover, 
his  religion  had  the  merit  of  being  a com- 
plement  to  that  which  was  generally  ac- 
cepted, giving  precision  to  what  was  ques- 
tionable, widening  the  boundaries  of  what 
was  narrow.  The  heaven  which  he  pic- 
tured was  a heaven  which  human  beings 
desired  all  the  more  strongly  because  it 
was  but  another  and  a more  perfect  rep- 
resentation of  the  world  in  which  they 
lived.  To  the  believers  in  him  was 
afforded  the  supreme  satisfaction  of  an 
immediate  display  of  spiritual  powers  and 
a present  experience  of  spiritual  beings. 
They  were  convinced  that  the  Deity  had 
returned  to  earth  and  exhibited  Himself 
anew  on  their  behalf. 

“Desiring  to  profit  by  the  privileges 
accorded  to  the  Saints,  thousands  en- 
rolled themselved  under  the  banner  of 
J oseph  Smith,  patiently  submitting  them- 
selves to  his  command  in  the  hope  of 
winning  the  rewards  promised  to  the 
faithful  and  the  obedient.  When  these 
votaries  accompanied  him  to  the  Far 
West,  and  there  formed  themselves  into 
a society  under  the  name  of  the  Latter- 
Day  Saints,  they  merely  did  what  others 
performed  when  they  constituted  them- 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [The  Mormons. 


The  Mormons.] 

selves  into  ‘ Communities,’  and  settled  on 
lands  purchased  with  a view  to  afford 
them  scope  for  carrying  out  in  practice 
the  social  theories  which  they  had  ac- 
cepted as  panaceas  for  all  the  ills  of 
which  society  was  the  prey.  That  nearly 
all  these  communities  were  soon  dissolved 
was  directly  due  to  bankruptcy,  and  was 
indirectly  caused  by  the  absence  of  a tie 
sufficiently  strong  and  lasting  to  bind 
them  together.  Their  religion  saved  the 
Latter-Day  Saints  from  sharing  the  fate 
of  Owen’s  ‘New  Harmony;’  of  the 
many  phalanxes  in  which  Fourier’s  spec- 
ulations were  reduced  to  practice ; of 
Brook  Farm,  where  the  transcendentalists 
of  New  England  made  a vigorous  but 
futile  attempt  to  demonstrate  the  right 
manner  in  which  to  purge  the  world  of 
corruption  preparatory  to  ushering  in  the 
Golden  Age.  A deplorable  combination 
of  ignorance  and  fanaticism  was  brought 
to  bear  against  the  infant  Church  and  the 
newly-formed  association  of  which  Joseph 
Smith  was  the  head  and  the  originator. 
The  rough  dwellers  in  Missouri  arrayed 
themselves  against  him  and  compelled 
his  followers  to  abandon  their  settlement. 
Fleeing  to  Illinois,  they  were  there  treated 
with  a barbarity  equally  gross  and  blame- 
worthy. The  law  proved  to  the  Prophet 
not  a protection,  but  a snare.  Again  and 
again  he  was  imprisoned  on  paltry  pre- 
texts, but  his  persecutors  would  not  be- 
lieve in  his  innocence,  even  when  repeat- 
edly proclaimed  by  a court  of  justice. 
The  prison  in  which  he  was  last  immured, 
pending  the  progress  of  another  trial, 
was  broken  open  by  armed  men,  and  he 
was  foully  slain  in  cold  blood.  His  fol- 
lowers, instead  of  immediately  dispersing 
in  dismay,  banded  themselves  together 
with  increased  ardor,  having  resolved  to 
dare  and  endure  every  thing  in  the  de- 
fence of  a faith  which  they  regarded  with 
the  stronger  admiration  on  account  of 
the  hatred  it  inspired  in  the  breasts  of 
lawless,  depraved,  and  cruel  men.  The 
desperate  resolve  to  seek  safety  in  an 
unexplored  part  of  the  country  can  be 
paralleled  by  nothing  but  the  lofty  cour- 
age which  moved  the  Dutch  to  resolve 
upon  submerging  their  entire  country 
and  to  take  ship  for  the  Indian  Archipel- 
ago, rather  than  submit  to  the  debasing 
bondage  which  would  have  been  their 
258 


lot  had  the  King  of  France  become  mas^ 
ter  of  Holland. 

“ Having  arrived  at  the  valley  of  the 
Great  Salt  Lake,  and  assured  themselves 
that  the  parched  desert  and  the  tower- 
ing mountain  were  insuperable  barriers 
against  the  inhumanity  and  intolerance 
of  their  foes,  they  began  to  live  in  the 
way  which  seemed  the  best  according  to 
their  lights. 

“If  the  Mormons  had  never  learned 
what  it  was  to  battle  with  difficulties 
almost  superhuman,  and  to  obtain  a tri- 
umph almost  miraculous,  they  might  have 
speedily  cooled  in  their  devotion  for  the 
creed  they  had  adopted,  or  interpreted 
the  accepted  doctrines  in  diverse  ways. 
But  the  fires  of  persecution  had  strength- 
ened their  faith.  They  not  only  believed 
implicitly  in  the  divinity  of  their  mar- 
tyred Prophet,  but  they  were  disposed  to 
interpret  his  revelations  in  the  manner 
most  consonant  with  their  personal  ex- 
perience. They  considered  themselves  the 
Chosen  People  with  whom  God  was  ever 
present,  and  against  whose  enemies  God 
was  always  ready  to  fight.  Just  as  the 
Puritans,  smarting  under,  the  atrocious 
discipline  of  the  Star  Chamber,  readily 
adopted  as  their  own  the  fulminations  of 
the  Old  Testament  against  the  wicked  in 
authority,  and  were  only  too  ready,  when 
opportunity  offered,  to  smite  with  the 
sword  of  Gideon,  and  consider  the  reek- 
ing battle-field,  on  which  their  foes  wel- 
tered in  blood,  as  a pleasing  sight  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Almighty,  so  did  the  Mor- 
mons incline  to  give  effect  to  all  the  harsh 
threatenings  of  the  Bible,  and  to  regard 
as  of  no  account  the  admonitions  to  be 
slow  to  wrath  and  abounding  in  mercy. 

“ The  spirit  with  which  they  were 
ready  to  resist  attack  from  without  was 
displayed  in  the  works  that  were  requisite 
in  order  to  render  their  position  secure 
and  their  existence  easy.  They  labored 
at  their  daily  tasks  as  if  they  were  vindi- 
cating their  sincerity  and  demonstrating 
their  piety.  Under  the  double  incentive 
of  religious  enthusiasm  and  individual 
requirements  they  built  houses,  planted 
fruit-trees,  tilled  fields,  and  reaped  har- 
vests. Even  if  no  ignoble  ambition  ani- 
mated their  souls,  the  circumstances  in 
which  they  were  placed  furnished  an  irre- 
sistible stimulus  to  exertion.  For  none 


The  Mormons.] 


UTAH. 


[The  Mormons. 


of  them  was  any  way  of  escape  from  the 
Valley  open  ; and,  unless  all  toiled  to  the 
uttermost  of  their  powers,  to  none  was 
subsistence  certain.  What  was  effected 
under  these  conditions,  all  Utah  bears 
witness. 

“ With  comparative  security  and  un- 
looked-for prosperity  came  a longing  for 
compensation  as  a reward  for  their  pa- 
tience under  privations,  bravery  in  the 
face  of  obstacles,  victory  over  great  odds. 
No  longer  apprehending  the  attacks  of 
declared  enemies,  they  desired  to  evince 
that  they  were  a peculiar  and  an  excep- 
tional people  working  out  an  intricate 
problem  in  a new  sphere.  In  their  eyes 
the  Old  Testament  had  gradually  become 
an  authority  of  great  weight : its  state- 
ments had  commended  themselves  to  their 
minds ; when,  then,  it  was  proposed  to 
adopt  as  their  own  the  rules  of  the  Patri- 
archs respecting  marriage,  the  proposition 
met  with  general  acceptance,  because  it 
chimed  in  with  the  prevailing  sentiment. 
Whether  Brigham  Young  had  really  re- 
ceived from  J oseph  Smith  the  ‘ Revelation 
on  Celestial  Marriage  ’ which  he  promul- 
gated in  1852  was  not  a circumstance 
scanned  too  closely  by  those  to  whom  the 
revelation  was  addressed.  To  be  differ- 
ent in  all  things  from  the  Gentiles  was 
dear  to  the  hearts  of  the  persecuted  Lat- 
ter-Day Saints.  The  indignation  which 
the  Gentiles  have  displayed  toward  those 
who  openly  practised  polygamy  has  tend- 
ed more  than  any  thing  else  to  confirm  the 
Mormons  in  ther  notion  as  to  the  divinity 
of  plural  marriage. 

“Mormon  principles  have  triumphed 
all  along  the  line ; yet,  in  the  thorough- 
ness of  the  victory,  lurks  the  greatest 
peril  to  the  cause.  The  high-handed 
measures  which  commanded  cheerful  as- 
sent while  the  danger  lasted  have  been 
regarded  with  aversion  and  have  excited 
antipathy  since  the  time  has  arrived  for 
enjoying  the  fruits  of  conquest.  To  the 
vigor  and  foresight  of  Brigham  Young, 
and  to  the  daring  and  devotion  of  col- 
leagues not  inferior  to  him  in  ability,  the 
Mormons  are  almost  wholly  indebted  for 
their  prosperity.  But,  even  while  ac- 
knowledging this,  they  hesitate  to  yield 
uniform  respect  and  implicit  obedience 
to  those  who  originally  guided  their  foot- 
steps and  sustained  their  efforts.  They 


see  that  the  leaders  have  had  their  re- 
ward in  the  form  of  positions  of  honor 
and  of  large  possessions.  These  leaders 
cling  to  the  authority  which  they  have 
acquired  or  usurped.  They  will  not  re- 
linquish it  save  under  compulsion.  Hun- 
dreds refuse  to  submit  to  its  exercise. 
Those  who  have  stood  forth  and  chal- 
lenged the  claims  of  Brigham  Young,  who 
point  out  his  shortcomings,  who  contest 
his  right  to  demand  that  he  shall  be 
blindly  obeyed,  and  who  ridicule  his  pre- 
tensions to  be  infallible,  elicit  sympathy 
and  aid  from  among  the  mass ; and  the 
warfare  which  was  once  waged  by  the  Gen- 
tiles against  the  Mormons  promises  to  be 
succeeded  by  an  embittered  strife  between 
Mormonism  and  Brigham  Youngdom. 

“ The  original  and  crying  grievance  of 
the  Mormons  was  that  justice  had  inva- 
riably and  intentionally  been  denied  them. 
They  were  exiled  from  Missouri,  they 
were  expelled  from  Illinois,  because  an 
unjustifiable  prejudice  had  been  excited 
to  their  detriment.  No  act  of  Congress 
had  they  infringed,  nor  had  they  denied 
the  supremacy  of  the  law  of  the  land. 
In  turn  they  have  become  violators  of 
statutes  and  ruthless  persecutors ; the 
Gentiles  have  suffered  at  their  hands  in- 
dignities quite  as  unbearable  and  injuries 
nearly  as  unpardonable  as  those  which 
they  underwent  at  the  hands  of  the  Gen- 
tiles. The  fountain  of  justice  is  tainted 
in  Utah : the  juries  and  judges  are  cor- 
rupt or  biassed.  A righteous  policy  re- 
quires that  these  gross  abuses  should  be 
extirpated,  and  that  in  the  eye  of  the  law 
Mormon  and  Gentile  should  be  absolutely 
equal.  To  accomplish  this  should  be  the 
endeavor  and  aim  of  American  statesmen 
and  rulers.  That  more  than  this  should 
be  undertaken  or  achieved,  no  right- 
thinking  man  wiU  desire. 

“ If  Salt  Lake  Valley  were  to  become 
the  home  of  a really  free  people,  it  would 
be  one  of  the  glories  of  the  American 
Union.  Its  situation  is  unrivalled  in  this 
part  of  the  continent.  A temperate  cli- 
mate blesses  the  inhabitants  with  good 
health;  a fruitful  soil  yields  them  food 
in  abundance.  The  surrounding  moun- 
tains are  rich  in  minerals ; the  multitu- 
dinous streams  are  alive  with  fish.  Na- 
ture has  designed  this  valley  to  be  a ter- 
restrial paradise ; hitherto,  the  doings  of 
269 


Net  ADA.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Nevada. 


man  have  frustrated,  rather  than  for- 
warded the  designs  of  Nature.  I found 
the  Mormons,  as  a body,  very  backward 
and  ignorant  when  compared  with  the 
other  dwellers  on  the  American  Conti- 
nent. I found  them  reluctant  to  embody 
their  thoughts  in  words,  afraid  to  speak 
their  minds  lest  they  should  be  punished 
for  giving  utterance  to  what  was  obnox- 
ious to  those  in  high  places.  The  lead- 
ers and  rulers  of  the  Mormons  are,  for 
the  most  part,  shrewd  and  determined 
Yankees,  who  exercise  a control  over  the 
multitude  as  grinding  and  despotic  as 
that  of  the  worst  tyrants  in  history. 
Neither  Jew  nor  Christian  can  safely  and 
easily  establish  himself  in  Utah,  either 
for  the  sake  of  pleasure  or  for  the  pur- 


poses of  trade.  All  non-Mormons  arc 
subjected  to  a system  of  persecution  skil- 
fully organized  and  conducted  with  a 
view  to  their  expulsion  from  the  Valley 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  In  the  Territory 
of  Utah  I found  a parody  on  the  religion 
of  the  Bible  and  of  the  Koran,  sanction- 
ing and  prescribing  the  treatment  of 
women,  not  as  intellectual  human  beings, 
but  as  mere  human  toys.  Having  had 
this  experience,  I am  unable  to  accept, 
as  a reply  to  all  objections  and  a coun- 
terbalance to  all  drawbacks,  the  incon- 
testable facts  that  President  Young 
preaches  the  gospel  of  labor,  and  that 
Mormon  orchards  yield  annually  many 
thousand  bushels  of  large  ripe  peaches 
and  rosy-cheeked  apples.’’ 


N EVAD  A. 


Nevada  forms  the  western  side  of  the 
Great  Basin,  enclosed  by  the  Rocky 
Mountains  on  the  east,  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada  range  on  the  west ; the  average 
elevation  of  its  valleys  being  at  least 
5,000  feet  above  tide-water,  while  very 
little  of  it  is  as  low  as  4,000.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  north  by  Oregon  and 
Idaho,  on  the  south  and  west  by  Califor- 
nia, and  on  the  east  by  Utah,  and  em- 
braces an  area  of  about  83,500  square 
miles.  It  extends  from  37°  to  42°  N.  lat., 
and  from  115°  to  120°  W.  long.  The  length 
north  and  south  is  about  348  miles ; the 
greatest  breadth  is  about  265  miles. 

The  history  of  Nevada  dates  from  a 
comparatively  recent  period.  The  Terri- 
tory was  organized  March  2,  1861,  up  to 
which  time  it  formed  part  of  the  Terri- 
tory of  Utah.  Prior  to  this,  the  Mor- 
mons were  in  the  majority,  and  the  Gen- 
tiles were  dissatisfied  with  their  own 
condition.  Having  resolved  upon  sepa- 
rating themselves  from  the  Mormons,  the 
latter  met  together,  passed  resolutions, 
and  formed  a territorial  organization. 
Congress  approving  of  their  conduct, 
gave  validity  to  the  arrangements  they 
had  made.  The  President  appointed  a 
Governor  over  the  new  Territory;  the 
number  of  citizens  rapidly  increased ; 
ihcir  ambition  prompted  them  to  desire 
260 


admission  into  the  Union,  which  was 
granted  them,  and  in  October,  1864,  Ne- 
vada became  a State. 

27ie  climate  is  dry,  and  similar  to  that 
of  Utah.  Rain  seldom  falls  between  the 
months  of  April  and  October. 

The  population  of  Nevada  in  1860  was 
6,857.  In  the  census  of  1870  it  is  given 
as  42,677. 

Mountains^  Soil,  etc,  — Nevada  is  an 
elevated,  mountainous,  and  semi-desert 
region,  the  western  part  of  which  is  on  the 
eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  The 
surface  is  broken  by  a succession  of 
mountain-ranges  and  intervening  valleys 
and  sandy  plains,  the  waters  of  which 
never  reach  the  sea.  In  the  north  cen- 
tral part  is  the  range  called  Humboldt 
Mountains^  and  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
State  that  called  the  East  Humboldt 
Mountains^  which  extend  in  a northerly 
and  southerly  direction.  Westward  from 
the  latter  is  a long,  parallel  metalliferous 
range  called  the  Toyabe  Mountains.  A 
great  part  of  the  Great  Basin,  or  Ere- 
monCs  Basin^  is  included  in  Nevada.  This 
basin  has  an  elevation  of  about  4,000 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  soil 
is  generally  sterile,  and  in  many  parts 
covered  with  wild-sage.  Nevada  is  al- 
most without  wood,  save  scrubby  pines 
and  cedars. 


Rivers  and  Lakes.] 


NEVADA. 


[The  Silver  Mines. 


Although  neither  diamonds,  rubies, 
emeralds,  nor  other  precious  stones,  have 
3^et  been  found  in  this  State,  many  stones 
suited  to  the  uses  of  the  lapidary,  from 
their  hardness  and  beauty,  are  abundant. 
Jasper  of  every  variety  and  shade  of 
color  is  met  with  throughout  the  State ; 
cornelian  is  to  be  found  in  many  places, 
and  is  quite  abundant  at  Cornelian  Bay, 
Lake  Tahoe ; agates  are  also  plentiful  at 
Lake  Tahoe,  at  San  Antonio,  Nye  Coun- 
ty, at  Aurora,  and  in  many  other  locali- 
ties. Fine  moss  agates  are  often  picked 
up  by  prospectors  in  their  rambles  among 
the  w^ild  mountain-gorges  and  over  the 
stony  table-lands.  Amethysts  are  quite 
abundant  in  the  various  mines  upon  the 
Comstock ; those  found  in  the  mines  at 
Gold  Hill  are  the  largest  and  best.  Gar- 
nets are  to  be  found  in  Washoe  County, 
near  Steamboat  Springs,  but  they  are  of 
an  inferior  quality.  Chalcedony  is  to  be 
found  almost  everywhere  in  the  State. 
Fine  specimens  may  be  obtained  at 
American  Flat,  and  still  finer  ones  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Aurora.  At  the  south 
end  of  Carson  Valley,  on  the  Aurora 
road,  good  specimens  of  chrysolyte  may 
be  found.  The  precious  or  fire  opal  has 
never  yet  been  found  in  the  State,  though 
the  common  and  wood  opal  occur.  Pet- 
rified wood  is  abundant,  in  fact,  whole 
trees  may  sometimes  be  seen.  It  can  be 
made  into  very  handsome  cane-heads  and 
seals,  when  cut  and  polished.  In  many 
places  in  the  State  geodes  are  plentiful, 
and  nearly  all  of  them,  when  broken, 
are  found  to  contain  beautiful  crystals 
of  various  colors.  Besides  the  stones 
already  mentioned,  there  are  fine  quartz- 
crystals,  and  many  specimens  of  quartz 
containing  gold  and  silver  are  to  be  seen 
in  cabinets,  which  would  make  fine  seals 
if  properly  cut. 

EIYEES  AND  LAKES. 

Nevada  is  generally  arid,  and  has  no 
great  rivers.  The  largest  is  the  Humboldt 
River ^ which  rises  near  the  northeaster- 
ly extremity  of  the  State,  flows  west- 
ward in  the  greater  part  of  its  course, 
drains  the  northern  portion,  and  empties 
itself  into  Humboldt  Lake.  In  the  south- 
westerly part  is  the  Walker  River ^ which 
flows  into  Walker  Lake.  Carson  River 
rises  in  the  southwest,  and  enters  Car- 


son Lake  after  a course  of  about  100  miles. 
As  has  been  stated  elswhere  (page  115), 
some  streams  of  Nevada  are  absorbed 
by  the  sands.  There  are  several  lakes 
in  the  State  having  no  outlet. 

lIiiOBa'Sjoliit  is  nearly  20 

miles  long,  and  8 miles  wide. 

is  situated  near 
the  western  portion  of  the  State.  It  is 
about  85  miles  long,  and  10  wide ; is  en- 
closed by  precipitous  walls  of  rock 
which  rise  to  a great  height,  and  owes 
its  name  to  a pyramidal  mount  which  is 
about  600  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
water.  The  lake  abounds  in  trout  of 
large  size  and  fine  flavor,  is  of  consider- 
able depth,  and  is  entirely  surrounded  by 
precipitous  mountains  two  or  three  thou- 
sand feet  high.  The  scenery  is  exceed- 
ingly grand.  Nevada,  in  fact,  is  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  and  interesting 
countries  in  the  world,  and  is  almost 
without  a rival  for  the  grandeur  and  sub- 
limity of  its  mountain-views. 

THE  SILVER  MINES. 

The  State  of  Nevada  abounds  in  rich 
stores  of  mineral  wealth,  including  gold, 
silver,  quicksilver,  lead,  antimony,  and 
other  precious  metals.  It  is  for  its  sil- 
ver-mines, however,  it  is  most  celebrated. 
The  mining-region  of  Nevada  is  described 
as  an  elevated  semi-desert  country;  its 
surface  a constant  succession  of  longitu- 
dinal mountain-ranges,  with  intervening 
valleys  and  plains,  most  of  which  are  in- 
dependent basins,  hemmed  in  by  moun- 
tains on  all  sides,  and  the  whole  system 
without  drainage  to  the  sea.  As  early 
as  1859,  discoveries  of  silver  in  Nevada 
had  attracted  the  notice  of  adventurous 
miners  in  all  parts  of  the  West.  Ten  years 
had  then  elapsed  since  the  gold  excitement 
in  California  startled  and  fascinated  the 
world.  The  California  quartz-mines  were 
rich  as  ever,  but  the  individual  miner 
found  great  difficulty  in  getting  a return 
for  his  labor  equal  to  that  which  he 
could  easily  command  before  the  water- 
courses had  been  rifled  of  nuggets,  and 
all  the  gold-dust  had  been  sifted  from 
the  sand  and  gravel.  To  these  disap- 
pointed and  desponding  miners  the  news, 
that  silver  was  even  more  abundant  in 
Nevada  than  gold  had  ever  been  in  Cali- 
261 


Virginia  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Austin  City. 


fornia,  was  received  with  great  joy,  and 
an  immediate  rush  was  made  to  the  new’ 
Potosi.  The  yield  of  the  great  Comstock 
lode  was  such  as  to  verify  to  the  letter 
the  most  favorable  statements,  and  to 
gratify  the  most  sanguine  hopes. 

YIRGINIA  DISTRICT. 

Virginia  City,  in  Western  Ne- 
vada, was  built  within  easy  reach  of  this 
lode,  on  the  slope  of  Mount  Davidson,  at 
an  elevation  of  6,200  feet,  and  the  whole 
district  was  honeycombed  with  mines. 
The  city,  which  has  a population  of 
about  10,000,  has  many  good  public 
buildings  and  elegant  private  dwellings. 
It  connects  with  the  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
way, at  Reno,  by  stage.  {See  page  116.) 

The  estimated  value  of  the  gold  and 
silver  obtained  in  this  district  during  ten 
years  is  about  $100,000,000.  Sixteen 
million  dollars  are  believed  to  be  the 
gross  annual  yield.  In  commenting  on 
this  fact,  a recent  traveller  says : “ The 
sum  is  enormous,  yet  the  proportion  of 
actual  gain  is  very  small.  The  net  profit 
is  understood  to  be  not  greater  than  half 
a million  dollars.  Worse  than  the  in- 
significance of  the  return  is  the  prospect 
that,  unless  a desperate  experiment  prove 
successful,  these  mines  will  have  to  be 
abandoned  altogether.  To  avert  this 
calamity  a tunnel  is  now  being  driven  in- 
to Mount  Davidson  with  a view  to  inter- 
sect the  great  Comstock  lode  at  the  depth 
of  2,000  feet.  The  distance  to  be  driven 
is  four  miles.  Mr.  Sutro  is  the  project- 
or of  the  tunnel,  and  it  has  been  named 
after  him.  Opinions  are  divided  as  to 
the  merits  of  the  enterprise.  Its  very 
magnitude  is  regarded  by  some  as  an  in- 
superable bar  to  its  success,  while  more 
daring  and  confident  spirits  predict  the 
brilliant  triumph  of  the  gigantic  under- 
taking. One  thing  certain  is,  that  the 
Sutro  Tunnel  will  either  beggar  its  pro- 
moters, or  else  be  the  means  of  making 
each  of  them  a Croesus.” 

REESE  RIVER  DISTRICT. 

To  the  east  of  Virginia  City  is  another 
district,  rich  in  silver  deposits,  which  at- 
tracted miners  in  1862.  This  is  known  as 
the  Reese  River  District.  The  mines  in  it 
do  not  yield  large  quantities  of  ore,  but 
the  ore  found  in  them  is  of  a superior  kind. 

262 


Austin  City,  the  county-seat  of 
Lander  County,  is  located  near  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Toyabe  range  of  mountains,  in 
the  midst  of  the  Reese  River  mining-re- 
gion. The  characteristic  ores  of  this  re- 
gion are  chlorides  of  silver.  Austin  and 
its  vicinity  have  a population  of  about 
4,500.  It  connects  by  stage  with  the 
Union  Pacific  Railway  at  Argenta.  {See 
page  115.) 

The  spot  which  at  present  surpasses 
all  others,  which  has  been  more  than  a 
nine-days’  wonder,  and  the  theatre  of  an 
excitement  which  tends  to  increase  rath- 
er than  abate,  which  has  been  the 
haven  of  miners  disgusted  with  the  re- 
ality elsewhere,  and  is  one  of  the  most 
notable  among  the  many  rich  reposito- 
ries of  silver  treasure  in  the  State  of  Ne- 
vada, is  the  White  Pine. 

WHITE  PINE  DISTRICT. 

This  district,  which  lies  due  east  of 
Virginia  City,  was  first  prospected  by 
some  adventurous  miners  who  left  Aus- 
tin City  in  the  spring  of  1865  with  the 
design  of  carefully  exploring  untrodden 
wilds  in  the  hope  of  making  their  for- 
tunes. During  many  months  of  hard 
toil,  continued  with  indomitable  vigor, 
and  of  trying  privation  borne  with  un- 
flinching spirit,  they  prosecuted  their 
search  for  silvef*.  Spring  and  summer 
passed,  and  it  was  not  until  the  autumn 
that  the  prize  was  won.  They  then  sat- 
isfied themselves  that  what  is  now  known 
as  Treasure  Hill  contained  incalculable 
stores  of  precious  minerals.  On  the 
10th  of  October  they  assembled,  made 
speeches  and  passed  resolutions  whereof 
the  gist  is  contained  in  the  mining  rec- 
ords of  the  locality.  The  entry  runs  as 
follows : “ A company  of  miners  met  on 
the  above  day  for  the  purpose  of  forming 
a district.  Motion  made  and  carried  that 
this  district  be  known  as  the  White  Pine 
District,  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Red  Hills,  and  running  thence  south  to  a 
point  whence  the  mountains  run  into  a 
foot-hill,  thence  east  twelve  miles,  thence 
north,  and  thence  west  to  the  place  of 
beginning.”  The  district  thus  mapped 
out  had  no  attraction  of  scenery  or  site 
to  recommend  it.  The  trees  which  grow 
in  the  valleys  or  on  the  mountain-sides 
are  few  in  number  and  small  in  size. 


Hamilton  Ciir.] 


NEVADA. 


[Treasure  City. 


Desolation  and  sterility  dominate  the 
landscape.  All  the  year  round  the  air 
is  chilly,  while,  during  the  long  months 
of  winter,  storms  rage  with  almost  in- 
credible fury.  The  blast  sweeps  along 
charged  with  snow,  and  dust,  and  gravel. 
The  name  Po-go-nip^  originally  given  to 
thick  white  clouds  of  cold  vapor,  which 
sometimes  veil  the  mountain-tops  and 
sometimes  fill  the  valleys,  is  employed  to 
characterize  these  terrible  storms.  Tell 
a miner  acquainted  with  White  Pine  that 
you  have  had  to  face  the  Po-go-nip,  and 
he  will  know  at  once  that  all  your  powers 
of  endurance  have  been  put  to  the  test.’^ 

Hamilton  City,  Shermantown,  and 
Treasure  City,  are  the  principal  centres 
of  business  in  the  district  of  White  Pine. 

City  is  the  capital  of 
the  county  of  White  Pine.  It  is  situated 
at  the  base  of  Treasure  Hill,  115  miles 
from  Palisade,  on  the  Central  Pacific 
Eailway,  from  which  place  it  is  reached 
by  stage.  A daily  newspaper  is  pub- 
lished in  the  place. 

Treasure  City  is  two  miles  and 
a half  above  Hamilton,  and  is  perched 
near  the  summit  of  Treasure  Hill,  at  an 
elevation  of  9,100  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  It  is  close  to  the  Eberhardt, 
one  of  the  richest  of  the  White  Pine 
mines,  and  it  is  to  this  it  owes  its  busi- 
ness advantages,  as,  on  account  of  its 
exposure,  and  the  scarcity  of  wood  and 
water,  the  location  is  in  every  way  in- 
ferior to  that  of  the  towns  at  the  base  of 
Treasure  Hill,  which  are  already  ahead 
of  it  in  population.  A daily  newspaper 
is  printed  here.  Treasure  City  is  reached 
by  stage  from  Elko  or  Austin.  (See  page 
114.) 

The  Eberhardt  mine  is  to  White  Pine 
what  the  famous  Gould  and  Curry  is  to 
\ irginia  City.  Not  till  the  spring  of 
1868  was  it  vigorously  worked,  and  since 
then  the  returns  have  been  enormous. 
Its  value  has  been  rated  at  millions : at 
one  time  it  was  bought  for  twenty-five 
dollars.  A trustworthy  writer  has  given 
the  following  sketch  of  the  appearance 
of  the  mine  underground : “ At  the  door 
a pack-train  of  Mexican  mules  is  being 
loaded  with  the  precious  ore  for  the  mill 
two  miles  to  the  southwest,  and  two  thou- 
sand feet  lower  down.  In  the  shed  men 
are  busy  at  a great  pile  of  brown,  blue, 


red,  green,  and  black  rock,  breaking  it 
to  pieces  and  sorting  it,  the  richest  being 
thrown  aside  for  the  crucible,  and  the 
rest  going  into  the  sacks  to  be  packed 
away  to  the  mill.  There  is  a princely 
fortune  in  this  pile  of  ore,  which  to  the 
uninitiated  eye  is  but  a heap  of  broken 
rock  fit  only  for  building  walls  or  mac- 
adamizing public  streets.  Over  one  of 
the  hoisting-shafts  there  is  a large  wood- 
en bucket  with  a rope  and  rude  windlass, 
such  as  you  might  see  on  the  prospect- 
ing-shaft of  the  poorest  miner.  It  has 
served  for  hoisting  all  this  wealth  to  the 
surface.  In  this  bucket  we  descended 
into  the  mine.  A long,  narrow  chamber, 
with  dull,  dark  walls,  and  a few  men  at 
work  with  pick  and  gad,  were  all  that 
the  first  glance  revealed,  and  there  was 
a momentary  feeling  of  disappointment. 
A closer  inspection  showed  that  the 
walls,  the  ceiling,  the  floor,  were  silver ; 
even  the  very  dust  on  the  floor  was  sil- 
ver. This  lump  will  yield  five  dollars  a 
pound ; this  six,  this  seven,  this  eight, 
and  this,  which  will  flatten  like  lead  under 
the  hammer,  is  worth  within  a fraction  of 
ten  dollars  a pound.  They  tell  us  that 
there  is  a million  dollars’  worth  of  silver 
piled  up  before  our  eyes  in  this  gloomy 
cavern,  and  such  is  indeed  the  fact.”  * 

Keystone,  Aurora,  and  Yirgina,  are  the 
names  of  other  productive  mines. 

A recent  report  of  the  State  Mineralo- 
gist, for  the  two  years  ending  with  1870, 
shows  the  ores  and  metal  shipped  from 
Eastern  Nevada,  by  railroad,  in  1869  and 
1870.  The  figures  for  1870  close  with 
November.  In  1869  the  amount  sent  to 
California  was  2,947,535  pounds;  1870, 
exclusive  of  December,  12,030,609  pounds. 
The  increase  since  the  opening  of  the 
railroad,  and  facilities  for  shipment,  has 
been  nearly  600  per  cent.  In  twenty- 
three  months  9,489  tons  of  ore  were 
shipped,  worth,  on  an  average,  $100  per 
ton,  or,  in  the  aggregate,  $948,900.  In 
addition,  there  were  shipped  from  East- 
ern Nevada  metal,  lead,  and  silver,  ex- 
tracted from  base  metal  ores,  in  1870: 
To  the  West,  3,907,960  pounds;  to  the 
East,  3,929,431  pounds.  There  are  no 
certain  means  of  ascertaining  the  amount 
of  pure  bullion  shipped  from  Eastern  Ne- 

* Mr.  A.  S.  Evans,  in  Overland  Monthly  for 
March,  1869  p.  279. 


263 


Idlewild  Cate.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[California. 


vada  since  January,  1869.  The  railroad 
has  increased  the  yield  of  mines  in  twen- 
t}^-three  months,  so  as  to  add  $2,000,000 
to  the  real  wealth  of  the  country,  and  the 
production  increasing  at  the  rate  of  from 
800  to  400  per  cent,  per  annum. 

ld.lewild.  Ciive. — This  romantic 
name  is  given  to  the  mammoth  cave  dis. 
covered  at  White  Pine  about  a year  ago, 
when  it  was  partially  explored  by  a party 
of  five  gentlemen.  It  is  situated  near 
the  north  end  of  Blue  Hill,  a short  dis- 
tance west  of  the  Truckee  Mine,  and  first 
came  into  notice  by  the  bottom  of  the 
shaft  then  being  sunk  in  the  Idlewild 
Mine  “ dropping  out.”  The  party  was 
lowered  down  this  shaft  thirty  feet  to  the 
entrance  of  a steep  incline  nearly  two 
hundred  feet  in  length,  formed  by  the  hand 
of  Nature.  On  each  side  of  the  incline 
are  large  vaulted  chambers,  from  fifteen  to 
thirty  ieet  in  length  and  width,  and  about 


twenty  feet  in  height — the  roofs  and  walls 
hung  with  stalactites  of  beautiful  colors 
and  fantastic  forms — the  arches  in  the 
chambers  being  composed  of  large  masses 
of  them.  The  entrance  to  the  incline 
from  the  shaft  is  small — sufficient  only 
to  admit  the  passage  of  an  ordinary-sized 
man  crawling  through  the  opening.  At 
the  termination  of  the  incline  is  an  im- 
mense chamber  which  could  only  be 
judged  of  by  the  eye — the  entrance  being 
choked  up  by  a large  bowlder.  Enough 
was  seen  to  know  that  its  size  was  much 
larger  than  any  yet  explored.  There  is 
a strong  draught  downward  from  the  en- 
trance, showing  that  there  must  be  an- 
other opening  far  down  in  the  bowels  of 
the  earth  to  some  unknown  region,  or 
else  that  a living  stream  of  water  flows 
underneath.  The  only  living  thing  seen 
in  these  silent  vaults  was  a bat  flitting 
through  the  chambers. 


CALIFORNIA. 


The  State  of  California,  without  doubt, 
contains  a greater  number  and  variety  of 
natural  objects  of  interest  and  beauty — 
more  to  impress  the  tourist  with  the 
magnitude  and  resources  of  the  country 
and  the  future  which  is  before  it — than 
any  State  in  the  Union.  Independent, 
however,  of  its  numerous  and  varied 
scenic  attractions,  California  has  a his- 
tory all  her  own,  which  must  ever  be  re- 
plete with  interest  for  the  traveller,  the 
more  so  as  he  witnesses  the  astonishing 
progress  which  it  has  made  during  the 
last  twenty  years.  The  peninsula  of 
Lower  California  was  discovered  by  the 
expeditions  of  Cortez  in  1534-35.  Up- 
per California  was  seen  by  Cabrillo  in 
1542.  Sir  Francis  Drake  visited  the 
coast  and  discovered  Jack’s  Harbor,  on 
the  bay  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  a few  miles 
to  the  northward  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, in  1579  Francisco  Vila  landed  in 
1582,  and  Juan  del  Fuca  in  1595.  In 
1596  a military  post  was  established  at 
Santa  Cruz  by  Sebastian  Viscanio.  In 
1769  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  was  dis- 
covered by  the  early  Spanish  mission- 
aries, who  established  some  eighteen 
264 


missions  in  the  country ; these  continued 
to  flourish  until  after  the  Mexican  Revo- 
lution in  1822,  when  they  fell  into  decay 
under  the  new  government. 

Captain  John  Sutter  established  him- 
self near  the  present  site  of  Sacramento 
City  in  1839.  In  1846  the  war  broke 
out  between  the  United  States  and  Mex- 
ico, which  resulted  in  the  conquest  and 
purchase  of  California  by  the  United 
States. 

The  treaty  ceding  California  and  New 
Mexico  to  the  United  States  was  dated  at 
the  city  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  February 
2,  1848;  ratified  by  the  United  States, 
March  11, 1848,  exchanged  at  Queretaro, 
May  30,  1848,  and  proclaimed  by  the 
President,  July  4,  1848.  California  was 
organized  as  a State,  December  15,  1849, 
and  admitted  into  the  Union,  September 
19,  1850. 

Gold  was  discovered  in  January,  1848, 
by  James  W.  Marshall,  in  the  employ  of 
Captain  Sutter,  at  Sutter’s  Mill,  on  the 
south  fork  of  the  American  River,  near 
the  present  city  of  Sacramento.  From 
this  date  the  unprecedented  progress  of 
the  country  commenced. 


Mountains  and  Timber.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Scenery  and  Mines. 


The  State  of  California  extends  along  the 
Pacific  coast  nearly  75 0 miles  from  south- 
east to  northwest,  with  an  average  breadth 
from  east  to  west  of  250  miles,  contain- 
ing an  area  of  187,500  square  miles,  or 
nearly  twice. the  size  of  Great  Britain. 
The  whole  country  naturally  falls  into 
three  great  divisions,  viz.  : First,  the 
great  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  and  San 
Joaquin  Rivers,  with  all  their  lateral  val- 
leys ; all  of  whose  waters  meet  in  the  bay 
of  San  Francisco,  passing  through  the 
Golden  Gate  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Sec- 
ond, the  portions  of  the  Coast  Range 
north  and  south  of  the  bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, where  the  country  is  drained  by 
streams  falling  directly  into  the  Pacific, 
as  the  Klamath,  Eel  River,  Russian  River, 
the  Salinas,  San  Pedro,  and  San  Ber- 
nardino, with  others  of  lesser  magnitude. 
Third,  the  country  east  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada chain,  the  waters  of  which  fall  into 
the  Great  Basin,  having  no  outlet  to  the 
ocean. 

Mountains, — The  ranges  of  mountains 
comprise  the  Sierra  Nevada,  which  divide 
the  State  on  the  east  from  the  Great 
Basin,  and  the  Coast  Range  on  the  West. 
Between  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Coast 
Range  lies  the  extensive  country  of  the 
first  division,  a valley  of  some  600  miles 
in  length,  with  an  average  breadth  of  80 
miles,  with  a rich  soil  and  warm  climate, 
producing  all  the  fruits  of  the  warm  re- 
gion, with  the  products  of  the  more  tem- 
perate climes.  The  lateral  valleys,  with 
an  elevation  of  from  1,000  to  5,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  produce  the 
more  hardy  fruits  and  grains  common 
to  the  more  northern  States  of  the 
Union. 

Timber. — A belt  of  gigantic  timber, 
consisting  of  pines,  firs,  cedars,  oaks, 
etc , etc.,  extends  the  entire  length  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  affording  a 
supply  of  wood  that  can  never  be  ex- 
hausted. The  redwood  forests  furnish 
the  ties  used  for  the  construction  of  rail- 
roads on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  the  sup- 
plies for  the  South  American  railway 
lilies  are  drawn  entirely  from  California. 

The  mining-region  also  stretches  along 
this  range,  extending  on  the  north  into 
the  Coast  Mountains,  passing  into  Ore- 
gon with  an  average  breadth  of  40  or  50 
miles,  at  some  points  extending  from  the 
13 


valley  to  near  the  summit  of  the  Sierras, 
a distance  of  100  miles  in  breadth. 

The  second  division,  located  near  the 
coast,  contains  thousands  of  beautiful 
valleys,  some  of  which  are  very  exten- 
sive, as  that  of  the  Salmas,  whose  outlet 
is  at  the  bay  of  Monterey  and  the  coun- 
try adjoining  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego. 
This  portion  has  a cooler  climate  than 
the  lower  valleys  of  the  first  division, 
owing  to  their  proximity  to  the  sea.  It 
yields  every  variety  of  product,  from  the 
orange  and  other  fruits  of  the  warm  re- 
gion at  Los  Angeles,  to  the  more  tem- 
perate clime  and  products  of  Humboldt 
Bay  and  Trinity  River  at  the  north.  Gold 
is  also  found,  and  the  richest  quicksilver- 
mines  in  the  world. 

Of  the  third  division,  the  country  east 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  but  little  is  known, 
especially  to  the  southeast,  yet  many 
fine  valleys  occur,  one  of  which  is  Car- 
son’s Valley,  which  now  contains  a large 
population. 

The  great  mineral  belts  of  California  are 
four  in  number,  and  are  thus  described  by 
the  San  Francisco  Alta  California^  in  a 
recent  issue  of  that  journal:  “Beginning 
at  the  first  foot-hills  above  our  great  ag- 
ricultural plains  we  have  the  copper  belt, 
from  which  we  have  not  made  material 
realizations.  The  next  belt,  as  you  as- 
cend the  mountain-range,  is  that  in  which 
the  great  mother-vein  is  found.  The 
Hayward,  the  App,  and  the  Mariposa 
Companies’  gold-mines,  are  in  this  belt. 
There  is  much  silver  in  the  ores.  The 
mother-vein  usually  exceeds  twelve  feet 
in  thickness ; it  has  short  pay-chutes  and 
long  stretches  of  unproductive  quartz. 
The  pay-chutes  are  narrow  at  the  out- 
crop, and  seldom  silver  more  than  eight 
dollars  of  metal  to  the  ton  of  selected 
rock.  But  the  chutes  widen  and  grow 
richer  in  depth ; till,  at  400  to  600  feet, 
the  yield  is  sixteen  to  twenty  dollars  to 
the  ton.  Generally  the  rock  is  workable 
by  ordinary  mill  process ; but  not  over 
sixty  per  cent,  of  the  gold  is  saved  by 
present  methods.  The  Hayward  vein  on 
this  great  lead  proves  that  at  two  thou- 
sand feet  there  is  no  sign  of  giving  out. 

“ The  third  belt,  as  you  ascend,  is 
known  as  the  Limestone  Range,  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  the  others  where  slate 
and  granite  are  the  leading  rocks.  This 
265 


The  Mines.] 


WESTERN  TOUR.  [Fruits,  Vegetables,  Etc, 


third  belt  is  also  known  as  the  Pocket 
Range,  because  the  pay-rock  occurs,  not 
in  regular  chutes,  but  in  pocket  deposits. 
Labor  is  too  high  to  cover  the  risk  of 
finding  these  widely-separated  pockets, 
but  the  gold  in  them  is  more  profuse 
than  in  belt  No.  2.  Therefore,  this  belt 
is  but  little  explored. 

“ The  fourth  and  last  belt  yet  known 
to  us  is  well  up  in  the  Sierras,  It  has 
not  attracted  much  attention  till  recently. 
It  is  only  where  there  has  been  a break- 
down in  the  mountains,  that  the  quartz 
veins  show  an  outcrop  here,  which  ren- 
ders prospecting  difficult.  The  prevail- 
ing rock  is  slate.  It  is  in  fissures  cross- 
ing this  rock  that  quartz-veins  occur, 
and  it  is  only  in  quartz  that  gold  is  found, 
in  all  our  belts.  The  ores  of  this  belt 
are  distinguished  by  their  having  a large 
proportion  of  base  metals,  viz. ; sulpbu- 
ret  of  iron,  lead,  zinc,  and  antimony,  but 
they  are  also  richer  in  gold  generally, 
and  the  gold  is  more  than  usually  dis- 
seminated through  the  rock.  The  metal 
appears  in  pay-chutes,  as  in  belt  No.  2, 
and  the  encasing  rock  is  so  firm  that 
little  timbering  is  needed  in  the  working- 
shafts.  This  belt  has  been  very  little  ex- 
plored. The  Confidence  mine  and  the 
Soulsby,  in  Tuolumne  County,  are  exam- 
ples of  the  richness  of  ores  in  this  belt. 
Latterly,  some  of  our  San  Francisco  capi- 
talists have  opened  out  three  veins  in 
this  belt,  near  the  famous  Big-Tree 
Grove  of  Calaveras,  where  the  richness 
of  the  ore  has  induced  them  to  erect  a 
first-class  twenty-stamp  mill.  This  de- 
velopment is  drawing  more  attention  to 
that  high  mountain-range.” 

The  mines  of  gold,  silver,  quicksilver, 
coal,  and  iron,  are  of  great  richness,  and 
many  of  them  are  well  worked.  It  has 
for  ^ome  years  been  supposed  that  the 
gold  and  silver  yield  of  California  was 
likely  to  become  less  and  less,  so  that  in 
a generation  or  so  the  ore  would  be 
exhausted.  There  is  nothing  to  lead  to 
this  conclusion.  So  far,  at  least,  as  the 
deposits  at  the  San  Francisco  Branch 
Mint  are  an  evidence,  the  yield  is  largely 
increasing.  These  deposits  for  the  first 
eight  months  of  1870  were:  of  gold, 
719,211  ounces,  against  582,686  ounces 
in  1869,  and  398,081  ounces  in  1867. 
The  silver  deposits  in  the  same  time  were 
266 


109,104  ounces,  against  99,661  ounces 
for  the  previous  year.  California  is  still 
the  greatest  gold-producing  region  in  tlic 
world. 

Manufactures. — According  to  the  cen- 
sus of  1860,  California  had,  in  that  year, 
3,505  manufacturing  establishments,  with 
a capital  of  $23,682,593,  employing  24,- 
266  persons,  consuming  raw  material 
worth  $16,558,636,  and  producing  manu- 
factured articles  worth  $59,500,000. 
The  figures  for  1870  show  a great  in- 
crease, the  average  product  of  the  few 
previous  years  being  $75,000,000  a year. 

Fruits.,  Vegetables.,  etc. — California  is  a 
great  fruit-producing  State.  The  size  to 
which  its  vegetables  attain  is  almost  in- 
credible, pumpkins  weighing  250  pounds, 
squashes  150  pounds,  beets  100  pounds, 
and  carrots  30  pounds ; but,  astonishing 
as  these  figures  may  seem,  it  is  easy  to 
understand  how  these  results  are  ob- 
tained where  growth  never  ceases.  The 
apple,  pear,  strawberry,  etc.,  reach  pro- 
portions no  less  surprising.  The  Califor- 
nia fruit  crop  of  1870  is  given  by  the 
San  Francisco  Bulletin  as  follows : Ap- 
ples, 20,755,000  pounds  ; apricots,  2,133,- 
775;  blackberries,  1,050,000;  cherries, 
1,129,625;  currants,  697,000;  figs,  5,- 

066.000  ; grapes,  11,644,000 ; nectarines, 
720,000;  peaches,  7,932,000;  pears,  9,- 

828.000  ; plums,  2,952,250 ; prunes,  337,- 
750;  raspberries,  610,000 ; strawberries^ 
1,957,000;  quinces,  749,750;  oranges, 
2,466,000;  lemons,  226,000;  limes,  75,- 
000 ; citron,  100,000.  It  is  estimated  that 
at  least  90  per  cent,  of  all  these  crops  go  to 
or  through  San  Francisco,  and  the  aggre- 
gate value  is  greatly  over  $3,000,000. 

The  climoie  is  generally  salubrious  and 
genial,  although  the  various  geographi- 
cal divisions  of  the  State  have  various 
temperatures.  The  winters  are  cold  in  pro- 
portion to  altitude  in  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
North  of  lat.  35°,  fogs  prevail  from  May 
to  September,  keeping  the  summers  cool 
on  the  immediate  coast,  but  this  influ- 
ence decreases  as  one  recedes  from  the 
ocean  and  the  summer  days  become  hot- 
ter. The  nights,  however,  are  always 
cool,  except  in  the  Colorado  Desert. 

The  'population  of  California  in  1860 
was  379,994  ; in  1870  it  was  560,285. 

The  total  valuation  of  real  estate  and 
personal  property  in  the  State  is  given 


Bay  of  San  Francisco.]  CALIFORNIA.  [Bay  of  San  Pablo 


by  the  census  of  1870  as  $269,644,088, 
against  $139,654,667  in  1860. 

BOUTE  I. 

TO  LAKE  TAHOE  AND  DONNER  LAKE, 

By  Western  Paeijic  and.  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
ways,,  and  Stage,,  or  by  Steamer,,  via  Bay  of 
San  Francisco,,  Bay  of  San  Pablo,,  Sacra- 
mento River,,  Central  Pacific  Railway,,  and 
Stage, 

The  two  principal  and  most  frequented 
lakes  in  California  are  Tahoe  and  Bon- 
ner Lakes.  They  may  be  reached  from 
San  Francisco  by  two  ways : First,  by 
taking  the  Western  Pacific  Railway  cars 
(from  Davis  Street,  near  the  Pacific 
Street  wharf)  for  Sacramento,  there 
connecting  with  the  Central  Pacific  Rail- 
way for  Truckee,  and  thence  to  the  lakes 
by  stage ; or  by  taking  the  California 
Steam  Navigation  Company’s  steamer 
(at  Broadway  Street  wharf)  for  Sacra- 
mento (touching  at  Benicia,  Collinsville, 
Rio  Vista,  and  Freeport  (113  miles), 
taking  the  Central  Pacific  Railway  cars 
for  Truckee,  and  travelling  the  rest  of 
the  distance  by  rail  and  stage. 

The  route  by  rail  between  San  Fran- 
cisco and  Truckee  is  the  same  as  Route 
XVIIL  i^8ee  pages  116-121.) 

California  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
panfs  Line,,  Landings. — San  Francisco 
to  Benicia,  30  miles ; Collinsville,  75 ; 
Rio  Vista,  90 ; Sacramento  (connects 
with  steamers  for  Marysville  and  Red 
Bluff,  and  with  stages  for  all  parts  of 
northern  California  and  Oregon,  also  for 
Stockton),  117. 

Bay  of  ^aii  Francisco.  — 

Leaving  the  Broadway  Street  wharf,  our 
route  lies  northward  up  the  Bay  of  San 
Francisco,  the  island  of  Yerha  Buena, 
which  belongs  to  the  United  States,  and 
is  occupied  as  a fortification,  lying  to  the 
right,  and  serving  as  a partial  wind- 
screen for  the  town  of  Oakland  on  the 
east  side  of  the  bay,  against  the  blasts, 
which,  during  the  summer  months,  come 
fiercely  through  the  narrow  entrance  of 
the  harbor.  The  island  completely  com- 
mands the  city  and  entrance  to  the  bay. 
It  was  called  Yerba  Buena  by  the  Span- 
iards, from  its  production  of  a peculiar 
plant.  The  later  Saxon  settlers  gave  it 


the  less  euphonious  name  of  Goat  Isl- 
and, 

Farther  on  than  Yerba  Buena,  and  to 
the  left  of  the  steamer  route,  is  Angeles 
Island,  of  several  hundred  acres  extent, 
separated  from  the  western  shore  of  the 
bay  by  the  narrow  but  deep  Raccoon 
Strait,  through  which  flows  a strong  tidal 
and  river  current,  to  be  duly  considered 
by  vessels  entering  the  harbor  on  an  ebb- 
tide, to  avoid  being  driven  on  the  south 
shore  of  the  inlet.  The  island  shuts 
from  the  view  of  the  ascending  naviga- 
tor of  the  bay  the  little  harbor  of  Sauce- 
lito,  off  its  west  side,  where  formerly 
whalers  of  the  North  Pacific,  and  subse- 
quently the  founders  of  San  Francisco, 
obtained  supplies  of  fresh  water.  Thir- 
teen miles  from  the  city,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  bay,  just  after  passing  an  insular 
“ Red  Rock,”  stands 

IPoisat  St.  Qaieiitim,  on  which 
is  built  the  State  Penitentiary ; and 
about  three  miles  to  the  northeast  of 
this,  at  the  head  of  a snug  little  harbor, 
the  village  of  San  Rafael  is  seen  nestling 
in  a pretty  setting  of  verdure-clad  hills. 

Siiii  Ba.ia.el  (15  miles)  is  the  capi- 
tal of  Marin  County.  The  absence  of 
ocean  winds  and  fogs  makes  it  a favorite 
spot  for  the  country  residence  of  wealthy 
San  Franciscans.  It  connects  by  railroad 
to  San  Quentin  Landing,  and  with  ferry- 
boat to  San  Francisco.  The  population 
is  about  1,000. 

Bay  oi“  Sam  Pa1>lo. — A short 
distance  north  of  Point  St.  Quentin  is  the 
narrow  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  San  Pablo, 
The  passage  is  bounded  on  the  east  by 
Point  St,  Pablo,  and  on  the  west  by  Point 
St,  Pedro  ; two  rocks  near  the  former  and 
two  near  the  latter,  called  The  Brollm's 
and  Sisters,  by  a little  stretch  of  fancy 
may  be  regarded  as  being  occupied  in  the 
pious  duty  of  washing  the  feet  of  the  apos- 
tolic fathers.  Many  rocky  islets  scattered 
over  the  face  of  the  bay  add  to  its  pictu- 
resque scenery.  The  background  of  the 
shores,  being  offshooting  spurs  of  the 
Coast  Range  of  mountains,  on  both  sides, 
adds  to  the  beauties  of  the  scene  by  its 
graceful  undulations,  especially  when  the 
foot-hills  are  clad  in  the  livery  of  early 
spring.  The  Bay  of  San  Pablo  looks 
like  a rapid  and  muddy  embouchure  of 
the  great  Sacramento  River,  bearing  the 


Straits  of  Carquinez.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Sacramento. 


floods  of  its  turbid  tributaries  to  the 
ocean  through  a vast  valley  of  the  Coast 
Mountains.  To  the  northeast  is  Mare 
Island.  At  this  place  is  the  United  States 
Mavy-Yard^  one  of  the  most  extensive 
owned  by  the  Government,  and  the  only 
one  upon  the  Pacific  coast.  It  embraces 
extensive  shops,  storehouses,  and  a sec- 
tional dry-dock.  A strait  separates  the 
island  from  the  main-land,  on  which,  oppo- 
site to  the  public  buildings,  is  the  old 
town  of  Vallejo,  which  will  be  described 
in  Route  II.  of  California.  JYapa  Creek^ 
which  drains  a part  of  the  fertile  valley 
of  the  same  name,  and  affords  water  com- 
munication by  steamboat  between  that 
rich  country  and  San  Francisco,  empties 
into  Mare  Island  Strait,  a short  distance 
above  Vallejo. 

Leaving  all  these  to  the  left  of  our 
route,  we  pass  eastward  through  the 
Straits  of  Carquinez,  which  connect  the 
Bay  of  St.  Pablo  with  the  Bay  of  Suisun. 

'S'lae  Straits  of  Carq^iaiaaez 
are  about  8 miles  long,  and  vary  from  J 
to  2 miles  in  width.  To  the  north  shore 
of  the  straits,  at  the  head  of  ship-naviga- 
tion, stands  the  town  of  Benicia,  our  first 
stopping-place. 

iSeaicia  (30  miles)  is  so  called  in 
honor  of  the  wife  of  the  brave  old  Mexi- 
can frontiersman.  General  Vallejo.  It 
was  formerly  the  capital  of  the  State. 
Near  the  town  are  the  arsenal  and  bar- 
racks belonging  to  the  United  States 
Government.  Many  excellent  educational 
establishments,  among  which  the  only 
law-school  in  the  State,  are  situated  here. 
Extensive  cement-works,  tanneries,  and  a 
large  flouring-mill,  form  the  chief  ele- 
ment of  the  local  industry.  A company 
has  also  been  organized,  and  the  prelimi- 
nary steps  taken,  for  the  early  construc- 
tion of  a railroad  from  Benicia  up  the 
Sacramento  River  Valley  to  Red  Bluff, 
with  a branch  to  Sacramento.  The  con- 
nection with  San  Francisco  will  be  by 
steamers  from  Benicia.  It  will  traverse 
the  prosperous  counties  of  Solano,  Yolo, 
and  Colusa,  and  add  greatly  to  their  pros- 
perity. Steamers  for  Stockton  and  Sui- 
sun, as  well  as  for  Sacramento,  touch  at 
Benicia.  Population  in  18 VO,  1,660. 

lao  lSa.y  of  Naiisiaii. — We  now 
enter  the  Bay  of  Suisun,  another  arm  or 
continuation  of  the  great  Bav  of  San 
268 


Francisco;  here  the  waters  of  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin  unite,  the  former 
coming  in  from  the  north,  and  the  latter 
from  the  south.  The  growing  village  of 
Suisun  has  become  the  outlet  of  a rich 
agricultural  region  on  account  of  being 
connected  with  the  north  side  of  this  bay 
by  means  of  a navigable  slough. 

Btiver. — Passing 
through  the  bay,  we  soon  enter  the  mouth 
of  the  Sacramento  River,  about  45  miles 
from  San  Francisco.  Much  of  the  land 
adjoining  this  bay  and  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin  Rivers  is  marshy,  cov- 
ered with  iules^  a kind  of  bulrush.  Abun- 
dance of  fine  salmon  are  caught  in  this 
river.  Proceeding  toward  Sacramento, 
we  pass  a low  range  of  hills  to  the  left. 
Farther  on  the  banks  are  low  and  the 
country  is  marshy.  Beyond,  trees  ap- 
pear, and  the  river  presents  a more  beau- 
tiful appearance.  Sometimes  in  autumn 
the  dry  tules  are  on  fire  for  miles,  present- 
ing a magnificent  appearance  to  the  pas- 
senger on  the  steamer.  The  unimportant 
landings  of  Collinsville  (V5  miles)  and  Rio 
Vista  (90  miles)  are  passed,  and  we  arrive 
at  length  at 

^acra^mento  (IIV  miles).  This 
city,  the  capital  of  California,  has  been 
fully  described  in  Route  XVIII.  {See 
page  118.) 

At  Sacramento  we  take  the  Central 
Padjic  Railway  cars  for  Truckee.  The 
route  between  these  two  cities  has  been 
described  from  page  116  to  118.  At 
Truckee  carriages  are  in  waiting  to  carry 
passengers  to  the  Donner  Lake  Hotel,  and 
there  are  stages  about  to  start  for  the 
Tahoe  Hotel.  (For  description  of  Lakes 
Donner  and  Tahoe,  see  pages  116, 11 V.) 


MOUTE  II. 

SAR  FRARCISCO  TO  WHITE  SULPHUR 
SPRINGS  GALISTOGA  SPRINGS  THE 
PETRIFIED  FOREST,  THE  GREAT 
GEYSERS,  AND  SKAGGS  SPRINGS. 

By  Steamer,  ma  Napa  Valley  Railway,  and 
t>y  Stage. 

DISTANCES  TO  THE  GEYSERS. 

San  Francisco  to  Vallejo,  28  miles ; 
Suscol,  39 ; Napa  City  (connects  with 
stages  for  Suscol,  Sonoma,  Santa  Rosa), 
44  ; Yountville,  68 ; St.  Helena,  62 ; Calis- 


Vallejo.]  CALIFORNIA.  [Calistoga. 


toga  (connects  with  stages  for  Cloverdale, 
Healdsburg,  Geysers)  71;  Great  Geysers, 
99. 

Steamers  leave  Front  Street,  San  Fran- 
cisco, daily  at  8 a.  m.  and  4 p.  m.,  for 
Vallejo  (28  miles),  connecting  with  first- 
class  express-trains  on  the  JSfapa  Valley 
Railway y for  Calistoga  Springs,  and  by 
Foss’s  stages  every  morning  for  the  Gey- 
sers, and  by  stage  for  Skagg’s  Springs. 

Fare  to  Calistoga  $3.50.  Until  reaching 
the  Straits  of  Carquinez,  the  boat  fol- 
lows the  track  of  the  Sacramento  boats. 
{^Ree  page  267).  Steering  to  the  left,  we 
enter  the  narrow  sheet  of  water  between 
Vallejo  and  Mare  Island.  {^8ee  page  268.) 

The  route  to  Calistoga  lies  through 
Napa  Valley^  which  is  about  50  miles 
long,  1 to  6 wide,  and  in  point  of  culti- 
vation and  beauty  second  to  none  on  the 
coast. 

Vallejo  (28  miles),  the  southern 
terminus  of  the  California  Pacific  Rail- 
way^ is  a promising  port,  from  which  the 
grain  of  Napa,  Solano,  and  Yolo  Coun- 
ties is  shipped.  The  harbor  is  3 miles 
long  and  half  a mile  wide,  separating 
the  city  from  Mare  Island,  as  has  already 
been  stated.  Vallejo  has  the  first  grain 
elevator  on  the  Pacific  coast,  and  vessels 
from  the  chief  Atlantic  and  European 
ports  load  grain  at  its  wharves.  The 
population  of  the  town  in  1870  was  6,392. 

(39  miles)  is  the  point 
where,  in  1835,  General  Vallejo,  with  a 
force  of  600  Mexicans,  defeated  a large 
number  of  Indians,  in  a bloody  and  de- 
cisive battle,  in  which  the  latter  lost  200 
killed,  and  several  hundred  wounded. 

Napa.  City  (44  miles)  is  a thrifty 
place  of  about  3,500  inhabitants,  in  the 
centre  of  the  valley,  and  surrounded  by 
a very  fine  agricultural  region,  rich  in 
fruits  of  all  kinds,  and  in  immense  fields 
of  grain  which  stretch  in  every  direction. 
The  climate  is  equable  and  salubrious. 
A stage  makes  two  trips  a day  to  and 
from  Sonoma,  connecting  with  the  trains 
at  Napa  City;  fare,  $1.00.  A tri-weekly 
stage  runs  from  Napa  City  to  Monticeilo, 
in  Berreyessa  Valley  (24  miles),  passing 
on  to  Knoxville,  Lake  County.  There 
are  many  beautiful  drives  in  the  environs 
of  Napa,  viz. : to  Santa  Rosa,  taking  in 
the  famous  wine-cellars  of  Sonoma,  on 
the  v/ay;  to  Healdsburg  and  the  Gey- 


sers; to  Calistoga;  and  to  the  White 
Sulphur  Springs. 

'File  Napa  Spring's  are 

in  the  foot-hills  about  5 miles  northeast 
of  the  town.  The  water  is  rather  pala- 
table, and  is  said  to  possess  valuable 
medicinal  properties. 

l®ope  Valley 

Mines  are  about  35  miles  northeast  of 
Napa  City.  Their  yield  from  June,  1870, 
to  May,  1871,  was  1,175  flasks,  worth 
$76,1 16.39.  About  50  men  are  employed, 
and  six  retorts  are  in  use,  which  will  fuse 
from  250  to  300  flasks  a month.  The 
valley  is  about  10  miles  long  and  from 
one  to  two  miles  broad.  It  is  finely  cul- 
tivated. 

Voioitvillc  (53  miles)  is  in  a fa- 
mous wine-growing  district.  The  quan- 
tity of  wine  kept  in  store  is  said  to  be 
about  100,000  gallons.  Two  hundred 
acres  of  vines  were  planted  in  Yount- 
ville  in  the  spring  of  1871. 

Helena  (62  miles)  is  a pretty 
village,  which  promises  to  be  'he  centre 
of  the  grape  and  wine  trade  for  this  lo- 
cality. From  this  place  (and  also  from 
Calistoga)  stages  run  daily  to  White 
Sulphur  Springs. 

WSaite  Snlplanr  Springs,  a 

quiet  and  pretty  place,  is  a favorite  sum- 
mer resort  for  San  iVancisco  families. 
The  springs  are  situated  in  a deep  and 
picturesque  gorge  of  the  mountains,  which 
rise  on  either  side  to  a height  of  about 
1,000  feet.  The  waters  are  quite  cele- 
brated for  their  medicinal  properties. 
There  is  a well-kept  hotel  at  the  place. 

Calistoga.  (71  miles),  the  termi- 
nus of  the  Napa  Valley  Railway^  is  a 
handsome  little  town,  with  two  hotels, 
and  cottages  for  the  use  of  families.  It 
is  supplied  with  pure  water  from  a res- 
ervoir on  the  adjacent  mountain-side, 
and  there  are  three  bath-houses  supplied 
with  water  from  neighboring  springs. 
The  public  warm  swimming-bath,  40  feet 
square,  is  one  of  the  features  of  the 
place.  The  scenery  is  exceedingly  pic- 
turesque, the  well-cultivated  fields,  green 
lawns,  sunny  slopes,  and  shaded  villas, 
contrasting  pleasantly  with  the  wild  gran- 
deur of  the  rugged  mountains.  Calisto- 
ga lies  in  a valley  a mile  in  width,  encir- 
cled by  hills  and  mountains,  covered  with 
oak,  pine,  maple,  ash,  and  madrona.  It  is 
269 


Petrified  Forest.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mount  St.  IIelenaI 


the  centre  of  a large  teaming  business, 
the  various  routes  connecting  it  with 
Russian  River  Valley,  Lake  County,  and 
other  points.  Charges  at  the  Calistoga 
Hotel.,  $3.00  a day.  Stages  leave  Calis- 
toga twice  a week  for  I^wer  LaJce^  and 
irregularly  for  Harbin's  Springs,  20  miles 
north,  a place  much  frequented  by  suf- 
ferers from  rheumatism.  Stage  leaves 
daily  for  Healdsburg. 

l^etrilsecl  ff’oi-est,  the 
most  recently  discovered  of  the  great  nat- 
ural wonders  of  California,  is  located  five 
miles  southeast  of  Calistoga  Hot  Springs, 
about  10  miles  south  of  the  summit  of 
Mount  St.  Helena.  It  will  repay  the 
tourist  to  go  the  few  miles  out  of  the 
route  to  the  Geysers  to  examine  the  lo- 
cality. The  existence  in  this  place  of 
several  petrified  trunks  of  trees  was  first 
made  public  in  July,  18Y0,  by  Mr.  Charles 
H.  Denison,  of  San  Francisco.  Soon  after- 
ward he  wrote  to  the  Bulletin  of  that 
city,  giving  an  account  of  the  discovery. 

He  says : “ A careful  examination  of 
the  locality  where  the  first  prostrate 
trunks  had  been  discovered,  made  it  evi- 
dent that  those  now  on  the  surface  had 
all  been  weathered  out  of  the  volcanic 
tufa  and  sandstones,  which  form  the 
summit  of  this  part  of  the  mountain- 
ridge.  Several  large  silicified  trees  were, 
indeed,  subsequently  found  in  the  vicini- 
ty,  projecting  from  the  side  of  a steep 
bluff,  which  had  partially  escaped  denu- 
dation. Portions  of  nearly  one  hundred 
distinct  trees,  scattered  over  a tract 
three  or  four  miles  in  extent,  were  found 
by  our  party ; and  the  information  we 
received  from  hunters  and  others,  fa- 
miliar with  the  surrounding  country, 
renders  it  more  than  probable  that  the 
same  beds,  containing  similar  masses  of 
silicified  wood,  extend  over  a much 
greater  area. 

“ The  fossil  trees  washing  out  of  this 
volcanic  tufa  were  mostly  of  great  size, 
and  apeared  to  be  closely  related  to  some 
of  the  modern  forest-trees  of  the  Pacific 
coast,  especially  the  gigantic  conifers. 
One  of  the  prostrate  trunks  examined 
during  our  explorations  was  only  par- 
tially exposed  above  the  surface,  dipping 
with  the  strata  about  10°  to  the  north- 
ward. Its  accessible  portion,  evidently 
but  a small  part  of  the  original  tree. 


measured  sixty-three  feet  in  length,  and, 
although  denuded  of  its  bark  and  very 
much  weathered,  was  over  seven  feet  in 
diameter  near  its  smaller  end.  On  a high 
summit,  about  a quarter  of  a mile  west 
of  this  point,  two  other  large  trunks  were 
found,  one  about  five  feet  in  diameter, 
lying  east  and  west,  with  thirty  feet  of  its 
length  above  the  surface.  The  other 
rested  directly  on  this,  dipping  with  the 
strata  to  the  north.  The  exposed  frag- 
ments of  this  trunk  indicated  that  the 
tree,  when  standing,  could  not  have  been 
less  than  twelve  feet  in  diameter.  These 
two  trees  had  apparently  fallen  not  far 
from  where  they  were  embedded,  as  the 
bark  was  well  preserved  both  on  the 
main  trunks  and  on  the  small  branches, 
numerous  fragments  of  which  were  lying 
near.  Many  other  trees  were  found,  nearly 
or  quite  equal  to  these  in  size ; and  all 
those  examined  indicated  a very  large 
general  growth  for  the  original  forest. 

“All  the  trees  discovered  were  pros- 
trate, and  most  of  them,  after  their  petri- 
faction, had  been  broken  transversely 
into  several  sections,  apparently  by  the 
disturbance  of  the  enclosing  strata.  A 
majority  of  the  trunks  had  a general 
north  and  south  direction,  probably  due 
to  the  course  of  the  current  that  covered 
them  with  volcanic  material,  or  perhaps 
indicating,  in  some  cases,  the  position  in 
which  they  had  fallen.  Several  of  the 
trunks  had  portions  of  their  roots  still 
attached,  and  some  vrere  evidently  much 
decayed  internally,  and  worm-eaten  before 
their  entombment.  All  the  fossil-wood  ob- 
served was  silicified,  probably  by  means 
of  hot  alkaline  waters  containing  silica  in 
solution,  a natural  result  of  volcanic  ac- 
tion, .especially  when  occurring  in  con- 
nection with  water,  as  was  evidently  the 
case  in  the  present  instance. 

“ The  trees,  closely  examined,  appear 
to  be  all  conifers,  and  in  their  external 
characters,  especially  in  the  bark,  mode 
of  branching,  and  general  habit  of  growth, 
most  nearly  resemble  the  modern  red- 
woods still  flourishing  in  the  same  region.” 

Mount  Nt.  Helena.,  an  extinct 
volcano,  4,343  feet  high,  is  situated  to 
the  northwest  of  Calistoga,  from  which 
place  an  excellent  trail  leads  to  the  sum- 
mit, a distance  of  10  miles.  It  is  reason- 
ably supposed  that  it  was  by  the  eruptions 


Healdsburg.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Great  Geyser  Springs. 


from  this  mountain,  many  centuries  ago, 
that  the  petrified  forest  just  described, 
and  which  lies  10  miles  south,  was  en- 
tombed. Mount  St.  Helena  is  considered 
by  many  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
mountains  in  California. 

Meal€lsl>iirg',  the  point  of  depart- 
ure for  the  Geysers,  is  a pretty  village  of 
about  1,000  inhabitants,  in  Russian  River 
Valley,  one  of  the  best  wheat-regions  in 
the  State.  In  summer  it  connects  by  stage 
with  Petaluma  (32  miles),  from  which  the 
springs  are  reached  in  one  day ; but  in 
winter,  when  the  roads  are  heavy,  and  in 
some  places  almost  impassable,  travellers 
will  find  it  necessary  to  remain  overnight 
at  Healdsburg,  proceeding  thence  to  the 
Geysers  on  horseback. 

'Tlie  ^reat  Spriag’s 

(99  miles)  are  situated  in  Sonoma  Coun- 
ty, in  the  midst  of  wild  and  picturesque 
scenery.  The  medicinal  and  curative 
properties  of  the  waters  are  said  to  be 
fully  equal  to  those  of  Saratoga,  or  of 
Baden-Baden  and  Aix-la-Chapelle  in  Eu- 
rope. Leaving  Healdsburg  early  in  the 
morning,  a few  miles’  travel  on  the  road 
brings  the  traveller  to  Ray\s  Ranc\  situ- 
ated among  the  foot-hills,  617  feet  above 
the  sea-level,  and  commanding  a line  view 
of  Russian  River  Valley,  the  Coast  Range, 
Mount  St.  Helena,  etc.  From  this  point 
the  ascent  is  gradual  for  three  miles,  till 
we  reach  G-eyser  (Godwin’s)  Peak^  which 
is  3,470  feet  high.  Here  the  view  is 
charming.  The  whole  valley  of  Russian 
River  lies  at  our  feet,  extending  from 
southeast  and  south,  where  it  joins  Peta- 
luma Valley,  round  to  the  northwest. 
Beyond  the  valley  extends  the  long  line 
of  the  Coast  Mountains.  To  the  south- 
east rises  Mount  St.  Helena.  Directly 
south,  at  a distance  of  60  or  70  miles, 
when  the  overhanging  fog  is  not  too 
dense,  may  be  discerned  the  waters  of  the 
lovely  bay  and  the  blue  waves  of  the 
Pacific.  In  fine,  clear  weather  the  view 
from  this  peak  is  among  the  finest  to  be 
had  in  all  this  lovely  region.  The  sides 
of  the  peak  to  its  summit  are  covered 
with  a thick  growth  of  tangled  chaparral. 
Leaving  the  summit,  the  trail  conducts 
the  traveller  along  a narrow  ridge  called 
by  the  unpoetical  name  of  the  ‘‘Hog’s 
Back,”  which  divides  the  waters  of  P/w- 
Um  River  and  Sulphur  Creek. 


Sulphur  Creek  runs  through  the  whole 
extent  of  the  valley,  and  is  well  supplied 
with  mountain-trout.  The  hills  abound 
with  deer  and  other  game.  On  the  north 
side  is  the  wonderful  Geyser  Canon^  and 
all  the  celebrated  geysers  or  medicinal 
springs.  Among  the  natural  products  is 
an  eye-water,  also  soda-water,  sulphur, 
and  acidulated  springs,  in  both  a cold  and 
boiling  state,  which  are  used  as  efficacious 
remedies  for  cutaneous  and  rheumatic 
diseases. 

The  following  is  from  Lieutenant  David- 
son’s account  of  these  “ geysers  V explored 
by  him  while  employed  in  the  United 
States  Coast  Survey.  After  giving  the 
trigonometrical  determinations  of  the 
peaks  and  mountains,  he  writes : “ De- 
scending from  the  hotel  about  75  feet,  we 
first  meet  the  ‘ spring  of  iron,  sulphur,  and 
soda,’  temperature  73°  Fahr.  The  first 
spring,  going  up  the  Geyser  gulch,  is  the 
‘ tepid  alum  and  iron  incrusted,’  tempera- 
ture 97°  S.,  and  with  a very  heavy  irides- 
cent incrustation  of  iron,  which  forms  in 
a single  night.  Twenty  feet  from  this  we 
pass  the  Medicated  Geyser  Bath^  tempera- 
ture 88°  8',  and  containing  ammonia,  Ep- 
som salts,  magnesia,  sulphur,  iron,  etc. 
We  collected  crystals  of  Epsom  salts  two 
inches  in  length.  Higher  up,  the  Spring 
of  Boiling  Alum  and  Sulphur  has  a tem- 
perature of  156°;  so,  also,  ‘Black  Sul- 
phur,’ quite  near  it.  The  Epsom  Salts 
Spring  has  a temperature  of  146°,  and 
within  six  feet  of  it  is  a spring  of  iron^ 
sulphur^  and  sallSy  at  the  boiling-point. 
Soon  we  come  upon  the  Boiling  Black 
Sulphur  Spring^  roaring  and  tearing  con- 
tinually. As  we  wander  over  rock,  heated 
ground,  and  thick  deposits  of  sulphur, 
salts,  ammonia,  tartaric  acid,  magnesia, 
etc.,  we  try  our  thermometer  in  the  gey- 
ser-stream, a combination  of  every  kind 
of  medicated  water,  and  find  it  rises  up 
to  102°. 

“The  ‘ Witches*  Caldron'  is  over  seven 
feet  in  diameter,  of  unknown  depth.  The 
contents  are  thrown  up  about  two  or 
three  feet  high,  in  a state  of  great  ebul- 
lition. It  is  semi-liquid,  blacker  than  ink, 
and  contrasts  with  the  volumes  of  vapor 
arising  from  it ; temperature  195°  5'. 
Opposite  is  a boiling  alum-spring,  very 
strongly  impregnated ; temperature  176°. 
Within  12  feet  is  an  intermittent  scald- 
271 


Great  Geyser  Springs.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Skago’s  Springs. 


ing  spring,  from  which  issue  streams  and 
jets  of  boiling  water.  We  have  seen 
them  ejected  over  15  feet. 

“ But  the  glory  of  all  is  the  ‘ Steamboat 
Gc\j8er^  resounding  like  a high-pressure 
seven-boiler  boat  blowing  off  steam,  so 
heated  as  to  be  invisible  until  it  is  six  feet 
from  the  mouth.  Just  above  this  the 
gulch  divides  ; up  the  left  or  western  one 
are  many  hot  springs,  but  the  ‘ Scalding 
Steam  Iron  Bath  ’ is  the  most  important ; 
temperature  183°.  About  150  feet  above 
all  apparent  action  we  find  a smooth, 
tenacious,  plastic,  beautiful  clay ; temper- 
ature 167°.  From  this  point  you  stand  and 
overlook  the  ceaseless  action,  the  roar, 
steam,  groans,  and  bubbling,  of  a hun- 
dred boiling,  medicated  springs,  while 
the  steam  ascends  100  feet  above  them 
all.  Following  the  usually-travelled  path, 
we  pass  over  the  ‘ Moimtain  of  Firc^ 
with  its  hundred  orifices,  thence  through 
the  '‘Alkali  Lake F then  we  pass  cal- 
drons of  black,  sulphurous,  boiling  water, 
some  moving  and  spluttering  with  violent 
ebullition.  One  white  sulphur  spring  we 
found  quite  clear  and  up  to  the  boiling- 
point.  At  thousands  of  orifices  you  find 
hot,  scalding  steam  escaping  and  form- 
ing beautiful  deposits  of  arrowy  sulphur 
crystals. 

“ Our  next  visit  carried  us  up  the  Plu- 
ton,  on  the  north  bank,  past  the  ‘ Ovens^ 
hot  with  escaping  steam,  to  the  '‘Eye-Wa- 
ter Boiling  Spring^  celebrated  for  its  reme- 
dial effects  upon  all  manner  of  inflamed 
and  weak  eyes.  Quite  close  to  it  is  a 
very  concentrated  alum-spring ; tempera- 
ture 73°  5'.  Higher  up  is  a sweetish 
'‘Iron  and  Soda  Spring f 15  feet  by  8; 
and  12  feet  above  is  the  ‘ Cold  Soda  and 
Iron  Springs^  incrusted  with  iron,  with 
a deposit  of  soda,  strong  tonic,  and  in- 
viting ; temperature  56°.  It  is  12  feet 
by  5,  and  affords  a large  supply.  The 
Pluton  in  the  shade  was  61°,  with  many 
fine  pools  for  bathing,  and  above  for  trout- 
fishing.” 

The  "‘Indian  Springs  are  nearly  a 
mile  down  the  canon.  The  boiling  water 
comes  out  clear  as  ice.  This  is  the  old 
medicated  spring,  where  many  a poor 
aborigine  has  been  carried  over  the 
mountains  to  have  the  disease  driven 
out  of  him  by  these  powerful  waters. 
One  of  the  wonders  of  the  place  is  that 
272 


grass,  shrubs,  and  huge  trees,  should 
grow  on  its  very  edge,  and  even  over- 
hang in  many  places  the  seething  cal- 
drons below.  The  most  varied  wood 
abound  — oak,  pine,  sycamore,  willow, 
alder,  laurel,  and  madrona. 

Bayard  Taylor,  describing  his  visit  to 
the  geysers,  says  : “ The  scenery  is  finer 
than  that  of  the  Lower  Alps.”  Of  the 
Witches'  Caldron^  he  writes : “ A horrible 
mouth  yawns  in  the  black  rock,  belching 
forth  tremendous  volumes  of  sulphurous 
vapor.  Approaching  as  near  as  we  dare, 
and  looking  in,  we  see  the  black  waters 
boiling  in  mad,  pitiless  fury,  foaming 
around  the  sides  of  the  prison.” 

It  is  quite  a common  thing  for  visitors 
to  take  eggs  to  the  geysers  and  boil  them 
in  the  springs.  After  inspecting  the 
springs,  it  is  worth  the  visitor’s  while  to 
climb  the  mountains  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Pluton,  and  take  a view  of  Clear 
Lake  and  the  surrounding  landscape. 
{See  Route  III.  of  California.)  But, 
perhaps,  as  a late  writer  has  remarked, 
the  scene  which  would  delight  a lover 
of  Nature  most  can  be  obtained  by  rising 
early  and  walking  back  half  a mile  upon 
the  trail  which  descends  to  the  hotel: 
“ It  is  to  see  the  gorgeous  tints  of  the 
eastern  sky,  as  the  sun  comes  climbing 
up  behind  the  distant  mountains,  and 
afterward  to  watch  his  long,  slanting 
rays  in  the  illuminated  mist,  as  they  come 
streaming  down  the  canon  of  the  Pluton, 
flashing  on  the  water  in  dots  and  splashes 
of  dazzling  light,  and  tipping  the  rich 
shadows  of  the  closely-woven  foliage  with 
a fringe  of  gold.” 

SIcagg’s  springs. — From 
Healdsburg,  stages  run  every  day  to 
Skagg's  Springs.  They  are  more  easily 
reached  than  the  Geysers,  and  are  much 
frequented  by  invalids.  The  stage-route 
from  Healdsburg  is  through  Windsor  (6 
miles),  to  Santa  Rosa  (16  miles).  Rail- 
way cars  go  to  Petaluma  (32  miles).  {See 
Route  III.  of  California.) 

MOUTE  III. 

SAIT  FRAN-CISCO  TO  SKAGG\S  SPRINGtS 
AND  THE  GREAT  GEYSERS. 

By  Steamer^  'cia  N'orthern  Pacific  Railway 
and  by  Stage. 

Distances. — San  Francisco  to  Dona- 
hue, 40  miles  ; Petaluma,  46  ; Santa 


Donahue.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Santa  Rosa. 


Rosa,  62|-;  Mark  West,  'ZO.};  Windsor, 
12  ; Healdsburg,  80  ; Geysers,  100; 
Skagg’s  Springs,  94. 

The  steamer  Sacramento  leaves  Jack- 
son  Street  wharf,  San  Francisco,  at  8.30 
A.  M.,  arriving  at  Donahue  at  11.20  a.  sl, 
to  connect  with  trains  of  the  old  North- 
ern Pacific  Railway,  After  a pleasant 
two  hours  and  a half  sail  up  the  bay  of 
San  Francisco  into  St.  Pablo  Bay,  the 
boat  enters  the  estuary  of  Petaluma 
Creek,  and  arrives  at  Donahue. 

is  the  southern  terminus 
of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway,  project- 
ed to  run  from  Saucelito  to  Humboldt 
Bay,  via  Petaluma,  Santa  Rosa,  Healds- 
burg, and  Cloverdale.  The  San  Francis- 
co & Humboldt  Bay  Railway  Company, 
organized  in  1868,  originally  had  charge 
of  the  enterprise.  Little  was  done  by 
this  organization,  and  in  1869  a new 
company,  called  the  San  Francisco  & 
North  Pacific  Railway  Company,  was 
formed,  to  which  the  San  Francisco  & 
Humboldt  Bay  Railway  Company  trans- 
ferred all  its  franchises,  rights  of  way, 
etc.  Nothing  was  accomplished,  how- 
ever, by  the  new  organization,  until  Au- 
gust, 1870,  when  Peter  Donahue  bought 
the  stock  of  the  company,  and  prosecuted 
the  work  of  the  road  with  so  much  vigor 
that,  on  the  last  day  in  1870,  he  had  cars 
running  from  the  new  town  of  Donahue 
to  Santa  Rosa,  a distance  of  22^  miles. 
The  road,  in  May,  1871,  was  completed 
to  Mark  West,  8 miles  north  of  Santa 
Rosa,  and  later  in  the  year  was  finished 
to  Healdsburg.  Mr.  Donahue  subse- 
quently sold  the  road  for  $750,000  to 
the  California  Pacific  Railway  Company. 
Stages  from  Donahue  connect  with  So- 
noma, fare  $1.50. 

l^etaluma;  (46  miles),  the  princi- 
pal city  of  Sonoma  County,  in  1870  had 
a population  of  2,868  inhabitants,  and  at 
present  has  over  6,000.  It  is  48  miles 
northwest  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  sit- 
uated on  Petaluma  Creek,  at  the  head  of 
navigation.  There  are  many  large  ware- 
houses in  the  place,  one  of  brick,  150 
feet  square  and  27  feet  high,  in  which 
immense  quantities  of  grain  are  stored. 
The  Petaluma  Theatre,  60  by  100  feet, 
is  a handsome  and  well-appointed  house. 
The  American  Hotel,,  a fine  building,  is 
well  kept.  Stages  leave  for  Bloomfield 


daily,  at  12.30  p.  m.  ; for  Bodega  and 
Duncan’s  Mills,  tri-weekly.  Distance  to  ' 
Bloomfield,  16  miles;  fare,  $1.50;  Bo- 
dega, 25  miles;  fare,  $2.50;  Duncan’s 
Mills,  40  miles ; fare,  $4.00.  Leave  Dun- 
can’s Mills  Wednesday  and  Sunday  morn- 
ings for  Point  Arenas.  Stages  for  Two 
Rock  and  Tomales  start  every  day  (Sun- 
days excepted)  at  12.30  p.  m.  Fare  to 
Two  Rock,  $1.00 ; to  Tomales,  16  miles, 
$1.50.  Stages  for  San  Rafael,  21  miles 
distant,  depart  Mondays,  Wednesdays, 
and  Fridays,  at  7 a.  m.  ; fare,  $2.00. 
Stages  leave  for  Nicasio,  Wednesdays 
and  Fridays,  at  2 p.  m.  ; distance,  16  mJles ; 
fare,  $1.60.  For  Whitman’s  Store,  Tues-;;:"^ 
days,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  ; dis<? 
tance,  18  miles;  fare,  $1.50.  . 

A portion  of  the  Humboldt  <Jc  SaucelUo^ 
Railway  has  been  built,  and  is  in  opera- 
tion from  the  head  of  navigation  near.. 
Petaluma  to  Santa  Rosa,  16  miles.  It 
is  eventually  to  be  extended  southerly 
to  Saucelito,  on  the  bay,  directly  oppo-  ' 
site  San  Francisco,  and  northwardly  to 
Humboldt  Bay. 

^siiLata<  ISosa,  the  capital  of  Sono- 
ma County,  in  1870  had  a population  of 
2,901  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  Santa 
Rosa  Creek,  a tributary  to  Russian  River.  ^ 
The  Methodist  college  has  recently  been  _- 
transferred  from  Vacaville  to  this  place.^ 
Kessing  Hotel,  board  $2.00  per  day,  is 
said  to  be  a good  house.  From  the  cu- 
pola of  the  building  there  is  a splendid  - ^ 
view  of  the  Santa  Rosa  Valley,  with  St. 
Helena  looming  up  to  the  northeast,  and 
Geyser  Peak  to  the  northwest.  Stages 
run  regularly  to  the  following  points: 
Mark  West,  6 miles  north ; Windsor,  10; 
Healdsburg,  16;  Sonoma,  16;  Napa,  28; 
Sebastopol,  7 ; Feuston,  14 ; Bodega  Cor- 
ners, 17;  Bodega  Bay,  20;  Duncan’s 
Mill,  at  the  mouth  of  Russian  River,  25  ; 

Fort  Ross,  37  ; Timber  Cove,  40 ; Salt 
Point,  32 ; Fisk’s  Mill,  50 ; Fisherman’s 
Bay,  44;  and  to  the  mouth  of  the  Wal- 
halla,  56. 

5Seald!$*B>ii]*g;  (80  miles).  {See 
page  271.) 

The  routes  from  this  place  to  Skagg’s 
Springs  and  to  the  geysers  have  been 
described  in  Route  II.  of  California. 

The  road  is  completed  12  miles  beyond 
Healdsburg  to  Cloverdale. 


273 


Lower  Lake.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Lakeport. 


nOUTB  IV. 

SAN'  FRAirCTSCO  TO  THE  CLEAR  LAKE 
REGION  {HUNTING-GROUNDS). 

Via  Steamer.^  Napa  Valley  Railway^  and 
Stage. 

Distances. — San  Francisco  to  Calis- 
toga,  VI  miles  (connects  with  Napa  Val- 
ley Railway):  Liley’s  Mill,  80;  Brad- 
ford’s, 83  ; Loconomo  Valley,  89  ; Coyote 
Valley,  92 ; Lower  Lake,  106 ; Clear 
Lake,  112;  Kelsevville,  122;  Lakeport, 
131. 

The  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Calis- 
toga  has  been  described  in  Route  II.  of 
California.  {See  page  268.) 

The  picturesque  region  of  Clear  Lake 
is  the  most  extensive,  and  most  frequent- 
ed hunting-ground  in  this  part  of  Cali- 
fornia. It  abounds  in  deer,  bears,  pan- 
thers, hare,  squirrels,  foxes,  grouse,  quail, 
pigeons,  geese,  and  ducks,  and  its  waters 
teem  with  many  kinds  of  delicious  fish. 

Stages  leave  Calistoga  at  8 o’clock  a. 
M.  for  Lower  Lake  and  Lakeport.  Fare 
to  Lakeport,  $5.00.  This  is  a charming 
drive.  Coming  out  of  Napa  Valley  at 
Calistoga,  we  ascend  Mount  St.  Helena 
(see  page  2V0)by  an  easy  grade.  Early  in 
the  morning  the  reflection  of  the  sun 
upon  the  mountains  is  very  beautiful. 
At  the  Toll-House  (8  miles)  we  begin  the 
descent  into  Loconomo  Valley.  Middle- 
ton  (20  miles),  an  infant  city,  is  a station 
for  changing  horses.  Three  miles  to  the 
northwest  of  this  place  is  Harbins  Springs. 
Ouenoc  (24  miles)  lies  in  Coyote  Valley, 
a fertile  tract,  containing  about  10,000 
acres.  Passing  over  Clear  LaJce  Aloun- 
tain^  where  quail  are  very  plentiful,  we 
come  to  Cache  Creek  Valley.  Cache 
Creek  is  the  outlet  of  Clear  Lake. 

liower  ILialce  (106  miles).  The 
town  of  Lower  Lake,  36  miles  from  Calis- 
toga, is  the  centre  of  a rich  hunting-lo- 
cality, where  duck,  geese,  quail,  and  deer 
abound  in  season.  Trout  and  perch  may 
be  taken  from  the  middle  of  April  to  the 
middle  of  June.  Wild-pigeons  fly  about 
in  dense  flocks  in  easy  gun-range.  The 
Virginia  House  is  said  to  be  a good  ho- 
tel. Its  proprietor,  Mr.  R.  H.  Lawrence, 
is  an  old  sportsman,  and  will  give  the 
tourist  any  information  he  may  require 
concerning  hunting  in  the  Clear  Lake 
region. 


Clear  Lake  may  be  seen  to  advantage 
from  the  road  between  Lower  Lake  and 
the  Sulphur  Bank. 

Bartlett  Springs  lie  25  miles  north  of 
Lower  Lake.  The  Redington  and  Man- 
hattan Quicksilver  Mines,  which  are 
highly  productive,  lie  18  miles  south. 

iSeig’ler  Spring’s  is  a favorite 
resort  for  invalids.  It  is  six  miles  west 
of  Lower  Lake.  There  is  a good  hotel 
at  the  place. 

Clear  I^ake  (112  miles)  is  about 
25  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  six  miles 
wide,  and  averages  about  35  feet  in 
depth.  It  contains  several  small  islands, 
among  which  are  Coyempo  and  Alempo. 
The  former  was  once  the  site  of  an  In- 
dian village;  Salvador,  the  chief  of  the 
Lake  Indians,  resides  in  the  latter  place. 
The  waters  of  the  lake  are  supplied 
chiefly  from  springs  below  its  surface, 
which  are  of  various  temperatures.  Some 
of  them  are  of  pure  water,  and  others  are 
strongly  chalybeate.  Hot  and  mineral 
springs  are  found  throughout  the  Clear 
Lake  region. 

From  Lower  Lake  to  Manning  Lake 
is  five  miles. 

Melseyville  (122  miles),  a village 
on  Kelsey  Creek,  owes  its  name  to  An- 
drew Kelsey,  an  early  settler,  who  was 
murdered  by  the  Indians  in  1852.  A 
detachment  of  United  States  troops  sub- 
sequently avenged  his  death  by  defeating 
the  savages  in  a great  battle  upon  Alempo 
Island.  There  is  a gas-hill  at  Kelsey- 
ville.  It  is  only  necessary  to  make  an 
incision  in  the  earth  and  to  apply  a 
match  in  order  to  obtain  a jet  of  gas 
that  will  burn  for  nearly  five  minutes. 
Some  time  ago  a hole  was  dug  seven 
feet,  and  a pipe  put  in  it,  from  which  the 
gas  burned  for  several  weeks,  and  was 
then  extinguished. 

Moling  Csicle  or,  as  it  is 

called  by  the  Indians,  Co-noke-ti,  a re- 
markable mountain  15  miles  from  Lake- 
port,  is  about  2,500  feet  high.  On  the 
side  fronting  the  lake  it  is  nearly  perpen- 
dicular. Soda  Bay.,  which  is  at  its  base, 
contains  innumerable  soda-springs,  which 
bubble  up  from  the  lake  and  from  the 
shore. 

ff^akeport  (131  miles),  the  capital 
of  Lake  County,  is  a promising  town, 
near  the  shore  of  the  lake  in  Big  Valley. 


274 


San  Rafael.] 


CALIFORNIA, 


[Mount  Diablo. 


There  are  capital  hunting,  boating,  and 
fishing,  at  this  place.  At  the  Lakeport 
Hotel  the  charges  for  board  are  $2.00 
per  day,  or  $'7.00  a week.  Boats,  50 
cents  to  $1.00  per  day,  or,  with  a boat- 
man, $2.00  to  $5.00  per  day.  Stages 
run  from  Lakeport  to  Cloverdale,  Ukiah, 
and  Upper  Lake.  At  Cloverdale  they 
connect  with  railway  described  in  Routs 
III. 

MOUTE  V. 

SAX  FRAN^CTSCO  TO  SAX  RAFAEL  AXD 
MO  EXT  TAMALPAIS 

By  Stmmer  Costal  Sait  Rafa^d  <fc 

Sa’ii  QivcnUn  Railway^  and  on,  Horsebacks 

Distances. — San  Quentin,  12  miles  ; 
San  Rafael,  14;  Ross’s  Landing,  16^; 
Summit  of  Tamalpais,  26. 

The  steamer  Contra  Costa  leaves  the 
ferry-dook,  Davis  Street,  near  Vallejo 
Street,  daily,  except  on  Sunday,  for 
Point  San  Quentin,  which  projects  into 
the  bay  about  12  miles  north  of  San 
Francisco.  As  the  ascent  of  the  moun- 
tain cannot  be  made  conveniently  on  the 
same  day,  the  tourist  can  take  his  choice 
of  the  hours  of  starting.  The  steamer 
connects  on  each  trip  with  San  Rafad  & 
San  Quentin  Railway  for  San  Rafael, 

@£iiiL  (12  miles).  {See 

page  267.) 

Saia  ISalael  (14  miles).  (/Seepage 
267.)  Good  saddle-horses  may  be  had 
at  this  place.  The  distance  from  San 
Rafael  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Tamal- 
pais is  about  12  miles.  The  ascent  may 
be  made  in  about  three  hours,  W e follow 
the  stage-road  for  2^  miles  to  Ross’s 
Landing,  from  which  point  no  particular 
direction  can  be  given  on  paper.  The 
ascent  is  steep  and  tedious,  but  is  not 
dangerous. 

Mount  Tamalpais  is  2,597 
feet  high.  Its  summits,  of  which  there 
are  three,  consist  of  metamorphic  sand- 
stone, in  some  places  marked  by  quartz- 
veins  having  a banded  structure.  Heavy 
masses  of  serpentine  occur  on  its  west- 
ern and  northern  slope.  A ridge  of  this 
material,  nearly  2,000  feet  high,  extends 
several  miles  to  the  northwest.  On  a clear 
day  the  view  from  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain is  magnificent. 

The  tourist  may  vary  the  trip  by  re- 
turning by  stage  to  Saucelito,  and  thence 


by  ferry  to  San  Francisco.  The  round 
trip  may  be  made  in  about  30  hours. 


BOUTE  VI. 

SAX  FRAXCISCO  TO  MO  UXT  DIABLO, 

Via  San  Francisco  Oregon  Railway^  by 

BcAXudry's  cmd  Job/nson's  Stages^  and  on 

Horseback, 

Distances. — Broadway  Station, 8 miles; 
Lafayette,  22 ; Walnut  Creek,  25 ; Pa- 
checo, 31  ; Clayton,  39;  Mount  Diablo 
Summit,  47. 

The  Oakland  ferry-boat  leaves  Pacific 
Street  wharf  daily,  connecting  at  Oak- 
land landing  with  the  cars  of  the  San 
Francisco  & Oregon  Railway^  for  Broad- 
way Station  (8  miles).  The  tourist  can 
leave  San  Francisco  by  early  ferry-boat, 
enabling  him,  if  he  desires,  to  spend 
several  hours  in  Oakland.  L.  M.  Beau- 
dry’s stages  leave  Broadway  Station  for 
Pacheco  (23  miles),  passing  through  La- 
fayette (14  miles),  and  Walnut  Creek 
(17  miles).  S,  W.  Johnson’s  stages,  run- 
ning from  Martinez  to  Somerville,  pass 
through  Pacheco  for  Clayton  (8  miles). 

I*ucItcyco  (31  miles),  a town  of 
about  500  population,  in  Contra  Costa 
County,  is  the  shipping-port  of  the  agri- 
cultural region  of  the  Diablo  and  San 
Ramon  Valleys. 

Cljaytom  (39  miles)  is  a pleasant 
little  village.  At  this  place  we  leave  the 
stage,  and,  accompanied  by  a guide  (for 
the  trail  in  some  places  is  steep  and  dan- 
gerous), start  on  horseback  for  the  moun- 
tains. The  ascent  may  be  made  in  a 
little  more  than  two  hours.  There  is  a 
good  carriage-road  following  the  course 
of  a stream  through  a deep  canon,  for 
four  miles  south  from  Clayton.  At  the  end 
of  this  road,  at  a farm-house,  we  turn  to 
the  right  and  follow  the  cut  trail  in  a 
westerly  course  to  Deer  Flat,  where  are 
two  huts  and  a spring  of  water. 

Mount  l>ial>lo. — After  crossing 
the  flat,  the  trail  extends  in  a southeast- 
erly direction  to  the  top  of  a ridge  which 
is  in  sight  from  Deer  Flat ; then  turns  to 
the  east  and  lies  along  the  top  of  the 
ridge  2^  miles  to  the  summit,  which  is 
3,876  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  view  is  superior  to  any  in  the  State, 
and  many  travellers  consider  it  equal -to 
275 


Stations.]  WESTERN 

any  in  the  world.  It  includes  all  the 
country  and  towns  around  San  Francis- 
co, San  Pablo,  and  Suisun  Bays,  and  the 
valleys  of  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento, 
and  the  mountain-peaks  of  the  Coast 
Range  and  Sierra  Nevada.  The  tourist 
should  have  a good  field-glass  with  him. 

Returning  to  Clayton,  it  would  be  well 
to  take  a horse  and  buggy  and  visit  the 
coal-mines  at  Nortonville,  six  miles  dis- 
tant. The  road  is  good,  and  leads  through 
a rough  and  mountainous  region. 

Stages  leave  Clayton  for  Martinez  (13 
miles),  connecting  at  Martinez  with  ferry- 
boat which  conveys  the  tourist  across 
the  Straits  of  Carquinez  (two  miles)  to 
Benicia,  a flourishing  town.  (See  page 
268.)  At  Benicia  direct  communication 
is  made  with  steamer  for  San  Francisco 
(36  miles).  The  round  trip  maybe  made 
in  48  hours. 

MOUTB  VII. 

SAIfT  FRANCmCO  TO  WARM  SPRINGS, 
ALAMEDA  COUNTY, 

Via  San  Francisco  <&  Alameda  Railway^  and 
Ferry ^ and  hy  Liston's  Stages. 

Stations. — San  Francisco  & Alameda 
Railway:  San  Francisco  to  Alameda 
Point,  6 1- miles  ; Woodstock,  YJ;  Mas- 
ticks,  9;  Encinal,  11;  Alameda,  12;, 
Fruit  Vale,  12^;  High  Street,  13  ; Daw- 
son’s, 13|;  Fitch’s,  14|-;  Jones’s,  16; 
San  Leandro,  18  ; Junction,  19|-;  Ash- 
land, 20|-;  Castro  Valley,  2l|;  Hay- 
ward’s, 22|-.  (Stages  connect  for  Mount 
Eden,  Alvarado,  Centreville,  Mission  San 
Jose,  Saratago  House  and  Warm  Springs. 
Also  for  Dublin,  Pleasonton,  Laddsviile, 
and  Summit.) 

Stations. — Liston's  Stage  Line:  San 
Francisco  to  Mount  Eden,  25|-  miles ; 
Alvarado,  28 J;  Centreville,  32-^;  Wash- 
ington Corners,  26  ; Mission  San  Jose, 
38 ; Warm  Springs  (connects  with  Seely’s 
line  of  stages  for  Milpitas  and  San  Jose), 
41. 

The  ferry-boat  Alameda  leaves  the 
wharf  on  Davis  Street,  between  Pacific 
and  Broad  Streets,  for  Alameda  Landing, 
connecting  on  the  wharf  with  the  San 
Francisco  dc  Alameda  Railway  trains  for 
Hayward’s  (22^  miles).  The  route  lies 
through  the  beautiful  grove  of  oaks  in 
276 


TOUR.  [Mission  San  Jose. 

the  midst  of  which  stands  the  pleasant 
village  of  Alameda. 

Al£Lme<la;  (12  miles).  (Sec  page 
120.) 

From  Alameda  the  route  to  Hayward’s 
lies  through  the  most  fertile  and  best  cul- 
tivated land  around  San  Francisco  Bay. 

Hayward’s  (22^  miles)  is  the 
most  beautifully  situated  village  in  Ala- 
meda County,  lying  among  the  foot-hills 
of  the  Contra  Costa  Range,  in  the  midst 
of  charming  scenery.  It  is  the  depot 
for  the  grain  from  Amador,  Livermore, 
and  Castro  Valleys,  and  has  the  chief 
cattle-market  in  the  State.  The  village 
suffered  severely  by  the  earthquake  of  Oc- 
tober, 1868,  which  completely  destroyed 
a brick  warehouse  400  by  60  feet,  one  of 
the  largest  in  California.  The  tourist 
should  spend  a few  hours  in  the  place. 

Daily  stages  leave  Hayward’s  (19  miles) 
for  the  Warm  Springs,  via  Mount  Eden 
(3  miles),  Alvarado  (6  miles),  Centreville 
10  miles),  Washington  Comers  (14 
miles),  Mission  San  Jose  (16  miles.) 

T*lie  'Warm,  (41  miles) 

are  medicinal,  containing  sulphur,  lime, 
magnesia,  and  iron,  in  various  propor- 
tions. They  are  in  a retired  situation  in 
a little  valley  among  the  foot-hills  of  the 
Coast  Range.  The  surrounding  scenery 
is  very  attractive.  Stages  leave  the 
Springs  for  San  Francisco  every  day. 
Seely’s  line  of  stages  for  Milpitas  and 
San  Jose  also  starts  from  this  place. 

Mission,  ^an  dTos6  is  a very 
old  town,  in  the  southern  part  of  Ala- 
meda County,  near  the  Warm  Springs 
(with  which  it  connects  by  stage).  The 
old  Mission  Church,  built  of  adobe,  was 
used  for  services  until  October,  1868, 
when  it  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake. 


nOUTB  VIII. 

TO  SAN  dost,  THE  SANTA  CLARA  VAL- 
LEY, THE  ALMADEN  QUICKSILVER- 
AIINES,  GILROY,  AND  LOS  ANGELES. 

Via  San  Francisco  & San  Jose  and  Southern 
Pacific  of  California  Railways,  and  by 
Stage. 

Distances  to  Gilhoy. — From  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Bernal,  4 miles ; San  Miguel,  6 ; 
San  Bruno,  14^;  Milbrae,  16 J;  San 
Mateo  (connects  with  stages  for  Crystal 


Santa  Clara.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[San  Jose. 


Springs,  Half  Moon  Bay,  Purisima,  San 
Gregorio,  and  Pescadero),  20f;  Bel- 
mont, 25  ; Redwood  City  (connects  with 
stages  for  Searville  and  Woodside),  28^; 
Menlo  Park,  32  ; Mayfield,  34|^;  Mountain 
View,  38 Santa  Clara  (connects  with 
stage  for  Congress  Springs  and  Santa 
Cruz),  46^;  San  Jose,  50;  Gilroy  (con- 
nects with  daily  stages  for  San  Juan,  Wat- 
sonville, Salinas,  Hilltown,  Hot  Springs, 
Nevvidria  Mines,  Paso  Robles,  Monterey, 
San  Luis  Obispo,  Santa  Barbara,  San 
Buenaventura,  and  Los  Angeles;  and, 
tri-weekly,  for  San  Luis  Ranch,  Lone 
Pine,  Kingston,  Visalia,  Havilah,  Kern- 
ville.  White  River  and  Sage  Land),  80. 

Distances  to  Los  Angeles.  — From 
San  Francisco  to  Gilroy,  80  miles : San 
Juan  (connects  with  stages  for  Wat- 
sonville and  Santa  Cruz,  New  Idria, 
Castroville,  Salinas  City,  and  Monterey), 
92  ; Natividad,  104  ; Salinas  River,  132  ; 
Last  Chance,  156;  Plato  Ranch,  187; 
Paso  Robles  Hot  Springs,  216;  San 
Luis  Obispo  (connects  with  stage  for 
San  Simeon),  244 ; San  Marcus,  323 ; 
Santa  Barbara,  345  ; San  Buenaventura, 
373;  Mountain  Station,  413  ; Los  Ange- 
les (connects  with  stages  for  San  Diego, 
Fort  Yuma  and  Tucson,  San  Bernardino, 
La  Paz,  and  Clear  Creek),  446. 

A day  or  two  may  be  profitably  spent 
in  visiting  San  Jose  and  the  Santa  Clara 
Valley.  Market-Street  horse-cars,  carry- 
ing a blue  signal,  connect  with  the  trains 
on  the  San  Jose  Railway  which  leave 
the  depot  at  the  corner  of  Market  and 
Valencia  Streets  every  morning  for  San 
Miguel  and  San  Jose.  We  travel  in  a 
southeasterly  direction  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, catching  a glimpse  or  two  of  the 
Pacific  on  one  side,  and  later  of  the 
southern  arm  of  San  Francisco  Bay  on 
the  other.  A long  range  of  treeless  moun- 
tains, of  picturesque  outline,  bounds  a 
portion  of  the  horizon.  For  a short 
trip  of  50  miles,  this  is  one  of  the  most 
charming  in  California. 

ISedwood  City  (28  miles),  the 
capital  of  San  Mateo  County,  is  situated 
on  Redwood  Creek,  28  miles  south  from 
San  Francisco. 

Sz&iita.  Clara  (46^  miles)  is  a 
beautiful  little  town,  in  1870  having  a 
population  of  3,470  inhabitants.  It  con- 
tains several  fine  churches  and  schools. 


among  which  is  the  ‘‘  University  of  the 
Pacific  ’’  (Methodist),  and  the  Santa  Clara 
College  (Jesuit),  in  which  is  included  the 
Old  Mission,  founded  by  the  Spanish  mis- 
sionaries in  early  times.  This  latter  insti- 
tution has  a high  reputation  as  an  edu- 
cational establishment.  In  Santa  Clara 
some  very  old  adobe  buildings  are  stand- 
ing, and  a number  of  one-story  clay  huts 
near  are  used  for  the  homes  of  a misera- 
ble but  contented-looking  group  of  fami- 
lies, descendants  of  the  lower  order  of 
Mexicans  and  the  California  Indians.  In 
the  orchards  attached  to  the  mission  are 
pear-trees,  gnarled  and  mossy,  but  still 
in  life,  though  planted  by  the  earliest 
of  the  Spanish  missionaries. 

The  village  is  connected  with  San 
Jose,  the  next  station,  by  a horse-rail- 
road. The  distance  is  five  or  six  miles, 
and  the  road  is  delightful.  It  is  called 
the  Alameda^  and  is  bordered  by  fine 
residences  and  a superb  avenue  of  trees, 
planted  by  the  Jesuit  fathers  in  1777. 
These  trees  are  mostly  deciduous  and 
without  leaf.  The  first  artesian  wells  in 
the  State  were  sunk  in  Santa  Clara. 
Congress  Springs  and  Santa  Cruz  are 
reached  from  here  by  stage. 

^sa.11.  (50  miles)  is  a busy 

town  in  the  heart  of  the  Santa  Clara 
Valley,  in  1870  having  9,091  inhabitants. 
It  is  rapidly  growing,  and  is  a place  of 
frequent  resort  for  San  Franciscans,  who 
generally  make  their  excursions  here  on 
Saturdays  and  Sundays.  The  town  is 
eight  miles  south  of  the  head  of  San 
Francisco  Bay.  It  contains  one  of  the 
best-appointed  hotels  on  the  coast,  and 
its  Court  House,  which  cost  $200,000,  is 
considered  the  handsomest  structure  of 
the  kind  in  the  State.  The  view  from 
the  dome  of  this  latter  building  is  very 
fine.  There  are  many  productive  vine- 
yards and  orchards  in  the  town.  In  con- 
sequence of  its  healthful  climate,  which 
is  a mean  between  the  harsh  winds  of 
the  coast  and  the  hot  valleys  of  the  in- 
terior, San  Jose  and  its  neighborhood 
are  much  visited  by  those  having  pulmo- 
nary complaints.  To  the  stranger,  the 
streets  present  much  interest  from  the 
strongly-contrasted  groups  which  pass 
through  them.  “ Here,”  says  a corre- 
spondent of  the  Springfield  Republican, 
“ we  see  an  American  with  his  fine  broad-f 
277 


Santa  Clara  Valley.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Santa  Clara  Valley. 


cloth  and  silk  hat,  his  light  wagon  and 
well-groomed  trotter  ; there  two  or  three 
rancheros  with  their  slouched  hats,  loose 
and  shabby  garments,  on  rough-coated 
horses,  stained  with  the  mud  of  a for- 
mer day ; here  a Mexican  on  a compactly- 
limbed  mustang,  with  the  high  peak  and 
broad  stirrups  of  the  Mexican  saddle 
(which  is  the  only  one  in  use  here),  with 
his  big,  broad-brimmed  hat,  his  loose  but 
jaunty  jacket,  with  all  the  seams  of  his 
clothing  trimmed  with  rows  of  small 
steel  or  silver  buttons,  and  heavy  spurs. 
Chinese  and  negroes  abound  among  the 
passers-by  on  foot.  There  is  a street  in 
San  Jose  occupied  entirely  by  the  French. 
The  houses  are  unpretending,  but  very 
cheerful  and  pretty,  with  small  grounds 
a good  deal  decorated,  abundance  of 
flowers,  and  always  a cluster  of  artichoke- 
plants  in  the  garden.  There  is  another 
quarter  occupied  entirely  by  the  Chinese ; 
one-story  brick  buildings,  crowded  and 
poor,  but  quaint  with  Chinese  pottery, 
and  brightened  by  what  are  called  Chi- 
nese lilies,  bulbs  grown  in  dishes  filled 
with  pebbles  and  water.  They  are  the 
narcissus  of  the  spring  borders  in  New 
England,  and  every  Chinaman  tries  to 
have  one  blossom  for  his  New  Year’s.” 

An  old  adobe  church  in  the  town,  built 
by  the  early  Spanish  missionaries,  has 
been  enclosed  in  brick  to  preserve  it 
There  are  some  fine  oil-paintings  to  be 
seen  at  this  place,  among  them  being  a 
superb  copy  of  Murillo’s  “ Repentant  Pe- 
ter,” and  one  of  Raphael’s  “ Madonna  del 
Seggiola.”  An  excellent  school  kept  by 
the  Sisters  of  the  Order  of  Notre-Dame 
is  located  here.  It  is  worth  visiting. 

Tlie  Santa.  Clara  Talley  is 
nearly  100  miles  in  length.  It  is  irri- 
gated by  artesian  wells,  and  considered  by 
many  to  be  the  most  fertile  in  the  world. 
In  the  spring  of  ISYl  there  were  300 
acres  devoted  to  strawberries,  the  prod- 
uct being  from  4,000  to  6,000  pounds 
to  the  acre.  Between  60,000  and  70,000 
pounds  of  the  fruit  were  consumed  daily 
in  San  Francisco.  Vineyards  covering 
hundreds  of  acres,  vast  wheat-fields,  sev- 
eral of  which  are  one  and  two  miles  in 
length,  stately  trees,  and  forests  of  live- 
oak,  are  to  be  seen  on  every  hand.  The 
visitor  will  be  surprised  at  the  almost  in- 
numerable number  of  squirrels  and  go- 
278 


phers  in  this  and  in  all  other  valleys 
of  California.  Indeed,  so  numerous  are 
they,  that  the  State  has  recently  enacted 
a law  offering  a bounty  for  their  scalps. 
Some  idea  of  the  fertility  and  beauty  of 
the  Santa  Clara  Valley  may  be  formed 
by  the  following  correspondence  to  the 
Springfield  Republican  * 

“ I wish  I could  paint  this  beautiful 
valley  as  I saw  it ; its  centre  filled  with 
the  towns  of  San  Jose  and  Santa  Clara, 
its  horizon  bounded  by  mountains  whose 
hollows  were  pink  and  brown  in  the 
morning  sun,  and  purple  and  blue  in  the 
sunset  light.  Some  of  them  wooded, 
some  bare,  the  foot  hilly,  with  nooks 
suggesting  lovely  spots  for  country 
homes. 

“I  visited  an  estate  of  several  hun- 
dred acres,  owned,  laid  out,  and  managed 
by  General  Naglee.  The  residence  upon 
it  is  a simple,  picturesque  cottage,  cov- 
ered with  vines,  and  at  a moderate  dis- 
tance are  the  stables,  and,  beyond,  the 
works  for  making  wine  and  brandy,  with 
the  low,  brick  storehouses  near,  where 
the  liquors  are  stored  for  ripening,  and 
a well-arranged  laundry  in  charge  of  a 
Chinaman.  The  enormous  vats  and  boil- 
ers of  the  works  and  the  complete  order 
of  the  establishment  (in  charge  of  a 
Frenchman  who  did  not  speak  English) 
gave  indication  of  the  large  amount  of 
liquors  made.  All  the  laborers  on  the 
place  were  Chinese.  The  vineyard  was 
of  such  extent  that  we  rode  through  it. 
Between  it  and  the  grounds  about  the 
house  was  a hedge  of  the  fragrant  Chi- 
nese honeysuckle,  here  an  evergreen. 
The  hedge  was  between  four  and  five 
feet  high  and  a quarter  of  a mile  long ; 
and  I strongly  desired  to  see  it  by  moon- 
light when  in  blossom,  for  it  must  then 
spread  its  perfume  over  many  acres. 
The  grounds  were  filled  with  many  varie- 
ties of  evergreen  and  curious  trees  of 
semi-tropical  countries.  Half  a dozen 
summer-houses  of  tasteful  designs  and 
liberal  proportions,  covered  with  grace- 
ful and  novel  climbing  plants,  decorated 
a landscape  garden,  to  which  several 
ponds  and  ornamental  fountains  gave 
life.  We  found  there  bank  after  bank 
of  fragrant  violets,  blue  with  a profusion 
of  flowers. 

“ I also  visited  a large  fruit  farm, 


Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines.]  CALIFORNIA.  [Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines. 


where  I saw  fifty  acres  planted  with 
peach,  plum,  and  pear  trees,  and  acre 
after  acre  of  strawberry-plants.  These 
yield  from  late  April  to  Christmas-time, 
but  the  market  season  is  during  May  and 
June.  Artesian  wells  were  spouting  in 
every  direction,  and  all  the  places  I saw 
in  the  valley  were  irrigated  by  them.  I 
saw  on  this  farm  both  hard  and  soft 
shelled  almond-trees  in  bloom.  The 
grounds  are  tilled  entirely  by  the  Chi- 
nese. In  one  of  the  large  nurseries  in 
the  neighborhood  I saw  the  California 
bay-tree,  and  its  leaf  is  like  that  of  the 
classic  wreath  of  bays.  On  the  banks 
of  the  Coyote,  a streamlet,  as  I thought, 
I saw  superb  specimens  of  the  live  and 
black  oak  trees.  The  afternoon  sun  shin- 
ing through  their  large  branches  and  pale- 
green  leaves,  with  the  pendant  Span- 
ish moss,  made  an  enchanting  picture. 
These  streamlets  in  the  neighborhood, 
the  Guadalupe  and  Coyote,  narrow 
threads  of  water  flowing  over  broad, 
pebbled  beds,  are  sometimes  formidable 
water-courses.  The  roads  were  level  and 
dry,  bounded  often  by  ditches  filled  with 
the  overflow  of  the  wells,  and  lined  with 
water-cresses  of  great  size.  I am  told 
that  the  luxuriance  of  vegetation  keeps 
the  pruning-knife  in  constant  use.” 

Tlte  Aimsidcii  Quicksilver- 
Mines  are  about  14  miles  from  San 
Jose,  and  65  miles  south  from  San  Fran- 
cisco. A pleasant  two-hours’  ride  in 
one  of  the  easy  coaches  which  are  in 
waiting  will  bring  us  to  this  interesting 
locality.  The  road  is  good,  and  the  way 
for  the  most  part  lies  through  a beautiful 
grove  of  sycamores  and  live-oaks,  the 
latter  draped  with  the  graceful  Spanish 
moss.  We  see  also  fine  specimens  of 
the  fragrant  bay-tree,  the  dark-green 
buckeye,  and  the  pretty  California  laurel. 
The  Vichy  House^  kept  by  a Breton,  is  a 
cool  place  to  rest  before  ascending  the 
mountain  to  the  mines.  Beside  the  ho- 
tel is  a delicious,  cool  mineral  spring, 
whose  waters  are  said  to  bear  a strong 
resemblance  to  the  celebrated  springs  at 
Vichy,  in  the  south  of  France. 

The  carriage-road  up  the  mountain  is 
broad  and  even.  On  the  left  is  the  rising 
mountain-side,  and  on  the  right  is  a deep 
ravine.  The  trail  is  not  considered  dan- 
gerous, owing  to  the  breadth  of  the  road ; 


but  much  care  has  to  be  exercised  by  the 
driver  to  avoid  the  steep  precipices  which 
we  sometimes  come  upon  quite  suddenly. 
Teams  of  from  four  to  eight  mules  are 
passed  ascending  and  descending,  with 
bells  hanging  from  their  necks  to  warn 
the  drivers  of  other  vehicles  of  their  ap- 
proach. The  higher  we  rise,  the  more 
beautiful  is  the  scene  below  us,  and,  on 
reaching  the  summit,  which  is  940  feet 
from  the  base,  the  prospect  is  grand.  A 
tourist,  describing  his  ascent,  says  : “ As 
we  rose  higher  and  higher,  and  looked 
down  into  the  gorges  on  our  right,  and 
at  the  mountains  of  the  spur  of  the  Coast 
Range  (in  which  the  mines  are  situated), 
we  saw  view  after  view  whose  wildness 
of  beauty  is  very  difScult  to  describe. 
Mountain-peaks  rose  behind  and  beside 
each  other,  and  their  feet  overlapped  each 
other,  dipping  themselves  down  into  hol- 
lows, all  green  from  the  peaks  to  the  depth 
of  each  canon  or  ravine.  These  green 
hill-sides  were  seamed  by  narrow  lines,  the 
tracks  made  by  the  sheep  and  goats,  which 
love  to  feed  upon  the  sweet  grass  and 
wild-oats.  Before  we  reached  the  level 
of  the  upper  mine  we  were  high  enough  to 
command  an  outlook  over  the  whole  broad 
Santa  Clara  Valley,  and  the  white  build- 
ings and  fine  dome  of  the  court-house  at 
San  Jose,  and  to  see  the  waters  of  Alviso 
Bay,  1^7  miles  north  of  us,  sparkle  in  the 
sunshine,  and  feel  the  fresh  mountain- 
breezes  brace  and  exhilarate  us.  The 
mountain-road  was  bordered  by  flowers 
of  crimson  and  glowing  blue,  the  Mexi- 
can sage,  the  wild  gooseberry  and  cur- 
rant, the  scrub-oak,  and  gorgeous-look- 
ing leaf  of  the  poison-oak,  a little  shrub 
dangerous  to  touch,  and  a profusion  of 
unknown  foliage,  with  a richness  of  col- 
oring and  luxuriance  of  growth  that  were 
very  pleasing.  At  length  we  passed  a 
large  settlement  of  cabins  and  huts  of 
various  sizes  and  degrees  of  comfort, 
settled  upon  the  broken  surface  of  the 
mountain,  in  a very  irregular  and  pictu- 
resque manner.  These  were  the  homes 
of  the  miners  and  their  families,  and,  with 
those  engaged  at  the  reduction-works  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  number  about 
1,500  inhabitants.  A store  is  near  the 
entrance  to  the  upper  mine,  and  a large 
shed  under  which  the  workmen  were 
sorting  over  the  heaps  of  ore  brought 
279 


Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines.]  WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Santa  Bardara. 


there  in  cars  from  the  mouth  of  the  tun- 
nel. The  stock  of  the  store  has  to  be 
brought  up  by  carts  and  pack-horses.” 

The  ore  from  which  quicksilver  is  pro- 
cured is  called  cinnabar,  and  was  long 
ago  known  to  the  Indians,  who  worked 
it  for  the  vermilion  powder  with  which 
they  painted  their  persons,  and  was  valued 
as  highly  as  money  by  the  tribes  as  far 
from  the  coast  as  Colorado.  Some  Mexi- 
can officer  bribed  the  natives  to  discover 
for  him  the  whereabouts  of  the  mines,  and 
in  1846  a Mexican  company  was  formed 
for  working  it.  They  named  it  after  the 
most  valuable  mines  of  mercury  in  the 
world,  the  Almaden  Mines,  in  the  prov- 
ince of  La  Mancha,  Spain,  The  tunnel 
from  the  mouth  to  the  engine-room  be- 
side the  shaft  is  one-fourth  of  a mile  in 
length ; the  ore  is  brought  up  from  the 
shaft  (which  runs  hundreds  of  feet 
straight  down  into  the  earth,  and  from 
which  open  many  galleries  where  the  min- 
ers work)  in  iron-bound  buckets,  which 
are  drawn  up  and  emptied  into  a car 
standing  on  the  track  in  the  tunnel.  The 
men  descend  to  their  work  and  come  back 
again  to  the  tunnel  by  means  of  the 
bucket.  The  tunnel  is  very  dark,  and 
its  walls  drip  with  damp.  Among  the 
miners  are  many  Mexicans,  who  have 
considerable  skill  and  experience  in  this 
kind  of  work,  although  there  are  also 
English,  W elsh,  Scotch,  and  Irish,  among 
them. 

The  process  of  extracting  the  mercury 
from  the  ore  is  very  simple.  Chambers 
are  filled  with  the  cinnabar  laid  in  layers 
with  clianncls  of  adobe  brick  between ; 
intense  fires  are  kept  up  in  the  fur- 
naces, which  are  arranged  so  as  to  en- 
able the  heat  to  escape  into  the  ore- 
chambers  through  perforated  brick  walls. 
The  heat  decomposes  the  ore,  and  the 
mercury  escapes  in  the  form  of  vapor 
into  the  condensing  chambers  connected 
by  another  perforated  wall,  on  the  other 
side.  As  the  vapor  cools,  it  condenses 
on  the  walls  of  the  chambers,  trickling 
down  their  sides  into  channels,  then 
through  pipes  and  troughs  into  a cal- 
dron, from  which  it  is  dipped  up  in  iron 
ladles  and  put  into  the  solid  iron  flasks 
imported  from  Europe  for  this  purpose. 
The  fluid  is  of  such  great  weight  that 
the  flasks  made  to  contain  75  pounds 
280 


each  really  do  not  look  as  if  they  would 
hold  more  than  two  quarts.  The  enor- 
mous amount  of  quicksilver  needed  for 
gold  and  silver  raining  makes  this  Al- 
maden mine,  and  the  others  in  the  same 
part  of  the  country,  the  Enriquita^  the 
Providence^  and  Guadalupe^  of  immense 
value  to  California. 

We  will  now  return  to  San  Jose  and 
continue  our  road  to  Los  Angeles.  Af- 
ter a ride  of  nearly  two  hours  through  a 
rich  and  picturesque  country,  we  arrive  at 

Gilroy  (80  miles),  till  lately  termi- 
nus of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway.  This 
town  is  situated  near  the  southern  bor- 
der of  Santa  Clara  County.  The  Gilroy 
Hot  Springs.,  a few  miles  to  the  north- 
east, are  much  frequented. 

Travelling  through  a fine  grazing  re- 
gion, we  pass  the 

;^aso  Mot  Spriiags 

(216  miles),  which  are  said  to  possess  val- 
uable medicinal  properties,  and  come  to 
SLiuis  01>ispo  (244  miles),  a 
small,  unimportant  Spanish  town,  the  cap- 
ital of  the  county  of  the  same  name.  This 
place  connects  with  San  Simeon  by  stage. 

^axita  Mai*l>ai*a  (345  miles)  is 
situated  on  a narrow  plain  between  the 
sea  and  the  base  of  a range  of  coast- 
mountains  3,000  feet  high.  The  climate 
is  mild  and  salubrious,  and  tropical  and 
temperate  fruits  flourish  with  equal  luxuri- 
ance. Santa  Barbara,  with  the  other  ports 
along  the  coast,  is  famous  for  the  hide 
business,  formerly  the  staple  product  of 
California.  It  has  no  protected  harbor, 
like  San  Pedro  and  other  places  along 
the  coast,  but  is  only  an  open  roadstead, 
dangerous  to  vessels  during  a south- 
easter, which,  however,  occurs  only  dur- 
ing the  rainy  season.  Like  Monterey 
and  the  other  old  places  in  California,  it 
retains  much  of  its  quaint  Spanish  look — 
the  adobe  buildings,  roofed  with  tiles, 
presenting  an  aged  appearance. 

The  ‘‘  Old  Mission  ” is  about  a mile 
distant.  Three  miles  east  is  a famous 
grape-vine,  supposed  to  be  the  largest  in 
the  world.  The  stem  is  over  a foot  in 
diameter.  The  vine  is  supported  by  a 
trellis  75  feet  long  and  61  feet  wide, 
which  it  completely  covers.  It  was  plant- 
ed from  a cutting  nearly  half  a century 
ago.  In  186Y  it  bore  six  tons  of  grapes, 
some  of  the  clusters  weighing  five  pounds 


Los  Angeles.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[San  Bernardino. 


each.  The  main  building  of  the  Mission 
is  200  feet  long,  and  40  feet  wide,  sup- 
porting two  domes  in  front,  and  with  bel- 
fries of  solid  masonry.  To  the  left  of  this 
is  a wing  130  feet  long,  with  porches 
supported  on  pillars  and  arches.  In  the 
vicinity  are  a reservoir  and  orchard,  and 
the  Mission  garden,  in  which  grow  nearly 
all  kinds  of  tropical  fruits.  The  view’  of 
the  Mission,  as  one  approaches  from  the 
village,  is  remarkably  picturesque.  Santa 
Barbara  connects  by  steamer  wuth  San 
Francisco.  {See  page  121.) 

ILdOS  AmgeSes  (446  miles),  the  oldest 
and  largest  city  in  Southern  California,  is 
situated  in  a narrow  valley,  on  the  Los  An- 
geles River ^ about  22  miles  from  the  sea. 
On  the  northwestern  side  of  the  town,  and 
very  near  the  busiest  part  of  it,  is  a hill 
about  60  f^et  high,  whence  an  excellent 
view  of  the  whole  place  may  be  obtained. 
Along  the  banks  of  the  river  for  miles 
are  situated  the  vineyards  and  orange- 
groves,  the  pride  of  Los  Angeles.  The 
population  in  ISYO  was  5,614,  a great 
proportion  of  which  are  foreigners.  Many 
of  the  houses  are  of  the  Spanish  style — 
one  story — with  flat  roofs  covered  with 
asphaltum,  which  abounds  in  the  neigh- 
borhood. The  city  is  growing  rapidly  in 
population  and  wealth.  The  surrounding 
country  is  rich  with  vineyards,  orange- 
groves,  lemons,  olives,  and  other  tropical 
fruits.  To  the  east  of  Los  Angeles  Mount 
San  Bernardino  rises,  covered  with  snow, 
80  miles  distant.  Its  altitude  is  about 
8,000  feet,  and  it  marks  the  site  of  the 
pleasant  valley  in  which  the  town  of  San 
Bernardino  is  situated.  Silver  lodes  of 
more  or  less  promise  have  been  discov- 
ered in  various  parts  of  the  neighboring 
mountains.  There  is  a rich  tin-mine  at 
Temescal,  about  60  miles  distant,  on  the 
Overland  Route.  The  San  Gabriel  placer 
gold-mines  lie  about  20  miles  to  the 
northeast.  Los  Angeles  connects  with 
San  Francisco  by  steamer  and  railroad 
via  San  Fedro. 

ItOUTE  IX. 

LOS  ANGELES  TO  SAN  DIEGO. 

By  Stage. 

Distances. — From  Los  Angeles  to  San 
Gabriel  River,  10  miles  ; Rancho  Los 


Coyotes,  17 ; Anaheim,  27 ; San  Juan 
Capistrano,  60 ; Santa  Margarita,  87 ; 
San  Luis  Rey,  90 ; San  Diego  (connects 
with  stage  for  Fort  Yuma,  Pima  Villages, 
and  Tucoon),  131. 

The  journey  from  Los  Angeles  to  San 
Diego  is  a pleasant  one,  along  the  coast. 
It  can  be  made  in  two  days.  Stages  to 
and  from  San  Diego  remain  overnight  at 
San  Juan  Capistrano. 

Kios  Aiig-eles.  {See  page  281.) 

l>icg-o  (131  miles  from  Los 
Angeles,  and  about  500  miles  southeast 
of  San  Francisco)  is  situated  upon  a good 
harbor  of  the  same  name,  which,  next  to 
that  of  San  Francisco,  is  the  best  on  the 
coast  of  California,  being  v/ell  protected, 
capacious,  and  having  a good  depth  of 
water.  The  town  is  more  than  100  years 
old,  having  been  founded  by  the  Roman 
Catholic  missionaries  in  1769.  Its  growth 
during  the  past  three  or  four  years  has 
been  rapid,  and  it  has  lately  been  made 
a port  of  entry.  The  population  in  1870 
was  2,300.  The  climate  is  mild  and 
pleasant,  varying  but  about  12°  from  the 
usual  mean  of  68°  Fahrenheit. 


EOUTE  X. 

LOS  ANGELES  TO  SAN  BERNARDINO. 

By  Stage. 

Distances. — Los  Angeles  to  El  Monte, 
14  miles;  Rusbottom’s,  30;  San  Bernar- 
dino (connects  with  stage  for  San  Diego), 
65. 

This  is  an  agreeable  excursion  along 
the  route  to  Arizona. 

1^0 s Ang-eles.  {See  page  281.) 
At  Rushottom's  the  stage  stops  for  meals. 

ISeraardino  (65  miles)  is 
an  old  Mormon  settlement,  in  1870  hav- 
ing a population  of  3,060.  It  is  situated 
in  the  beautiful  valley  of  San  Bernardino, 
which  is  walled  in  by  bold  and  precipi- 
tous mountains  formed  of  soft,  white  gran- 
ite, which  gives  them  the  appearance  of 
white  sand.  Fruit  of  all  kinds  grows  here 
in  abundance,  particularly  the  orange  and 
the  lemon.  Large  quantities  of  cedar 
and  other  valuable  timber  are  found  in  the 
forests  near  the  town,  but  little  has  been 
done  in  road-building  to  make  this  tim- 
ber accessible. 


281 


Santa  Cruz.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Monterey, 


-ROUTE  XI. 

SAJSr  FRANCISCO  TO  CONGRESS 
SPRINGS,  SANTA  CRUZ,  MONTEREY, 
AND  PESCADERO. 

Via  San  Francisco  <&  San  Jose  Railway,  and 
by  Santa  Clara  & Santa  Cruz,  and  Pesca- 
dero  (&  Santa  Cruz  Stage  Lines, 

Stations. — San  Francisco  & San  Jose 
Railway : Bernal,  4 miles ; San  Miguel, 
6;  San  Bruno,  14^;  Milbrae,  16f;  San 
Mateo  (connects  with  stage  for  Pesca- 
dero),  20|;  Redwood,  28^;  Mountain 
View,  38:|r;  Santa  Clara,  46|-, 

Stations. — Sa^ita  Clara  Santa  Cruz 

Stage  Line:  Lexington,  12  miles;  Forest 
House,  13;  Summit,  15^;  Mount  Char- 
ley’s, 16 ; Santa  Cruz  (connects  with 
stages  for  Soquel  and  Watsonville,  and 
Pescadero),  30.  From  San  Francisco, 
^76^. 

Stations. — Pescadero  db  Santa  Cruz 
Express  : Williams’s  Landing,  10|^  miles  ; 
Scott’s  Creek,  16;  Frogtown,  20;  Wad- 
dell’s Wharf,  23;  White  House  Ranch, 
26  ; Pigeon  Point,  30 ; Pescadero,  38 
(connects  with  daily  stage  for  San  Mateo), 
31. 

This  road,  as  far  as  Santa  Clara,  has 
been  fully  described  in  Route  VIII.  of 
California.  {See  page  276.) 

Stages  run  from  the  depot  at  Santa 
Clara  twice  a day  to  Congress  Springs,  at 
Saratoga,  about  11  miles  — a favorite 
place  of  resort,  and  one  of  easy  access. 
Passengers  wishing  to  go  through  from 
San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz  on  the 
same  day,  should  take  the  stage  imme- 
diately on  arriving  at  the  depot  in  Santa 
Clara.  The  route  is  one  abounding  in 
beautiful  mountain  scenery. 

Santa;  Cruz  (76^  miles)  is  pleas- 
antly situated  on  a cove  on  the  north  side 
of  Monterey  Bay,  opposite  the  city  of 
Monterey.  Manufacturing  is  extensively 
carried  on  at  this  place,  lime  and  leather 
being  the  chief  productions.  Bathing, 
hunting,  .and  fishing,  are  among  the  at- 
tractions of  Santa  Cruz.  The  scenery  in 
the  neighborhood  is  romantic  and  beau- 
tiful in  the  extreme.  The  tourist  should 
not  leave  without  visiting  some  of  the 
most  attractive  points  in  the  vicinity. 
Among  these  arc  the  following  : 

282 


Bath  Houses 

Seal  Rock 

Moore’s  Beach 

Natural  Bridge 

Eagle  Glen 

Oil  Works 

Pebble  Beach 

Paper  Mill 

Powder  Mill... 
Adams's  Lime  Kiln 

Cave 

Soquel  (stage) 

Paradise 

Scott’s  Valley 

Felton 

Big  Trees 

Castro  Beach 

Watsonville  (stage). 


MILES. 


1 

1 


4 

7 


b 

10 

2 


3 

4 
4 
7 

7 

8 
8 

20 


Stages  leave  Santa  Cruz  for  Pescadero 
(34:1^  miles)  three  times  a week.  The 
road  runs  for  several  miles  on  the  ocean- 
beach. 

The  tourist  may  return  to  San  Fran- 
cisco by  several  different  routes.  He 
can  take  the  stage  for  San  Mateo  (31 
miles),  via  San  Gregorio  (6  miles),  Puri- 
sima  (14  miles),  Spanishtown  (18  miles). 
Summit  (23  miles),  and  Crystal  Springs 
(27  miles),  arriving  in  time  for  the  train 
to  San  Francisco.  Another  route  is  by 
stage  to  San  Juan,  via  Watsonville,  or 
steamer  (three  times  per  month),  to 
Monterey,  and  stage  via  Castroville  and 
Salinas  City  to  San  Juan,  thence  stage  to 
Gilroy  Railway,  to  San  Jose,  stage  to 
Warm  Springs,  Alameda  County,  stage  to 
Hayward’s  and  railway  and  ferry  to  San 
Francisco,  via  San  Leandro  and  Alamed.a. 
There  is  also  direct  communication  by 
steamer  three  or  four  times  a month,  for 
those  who  wish  to  go  or  return  by  water. 

Nlomterey  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  southern  extremity  of  the  bay 
of  the  same  name,  which  lies  78  miles 
south  of  San  Francisco  by  water.  This 
town  was  formerly  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, and  principal  port  on  the  coast 
of  California.  But,  since  the  rise  of  San 
Francisco,  its  commerce  and  business 
have  dwindled  away,  and  now  it  is  one 
of  the  most  quiet  places  in  the  State, 
in  1870  containing  only  1,112  inhab- 
itants. The  view  of  the  town  from  the 
anchorage  is  very  line,  especially  if  vis- 
ited in  the  month  of  April  or  May. 
The  green  slopes  upon  which  Monterey 
is  built  contrast  beautifully  with  the 
forest  of  pines  which  grow  upon  the 
ridges  beyond.  The  Rocky  Bluffs  afford 


Pkscadero.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Marysville  Buttes. 


fine  views.  Monterey  is  reached  by  stage 
from  San  Jose,  via  San  Juan,  or  by 
steamer  from  San  Francisco. 

l®escad.ea*o  (38  miles  by  stage  from 
Santa  Cruz,  and  about  50  miles  by  sea 
from  San  Francisco)  is  a thriving  town, 
beautifully  situated  in  a remarkably  pro- 
ductive valley,  on  both  sides  of  Pesca- 
dero  Creek,  near  its  confluence  with  the 
Butano,  about  a mile  from  the  sea-shore. 
The  new  San  Francisco  Water  Company 
is  to  take  its  supply  from  the  head  of 
tlie  creek.  Near  the  town  is  the  famous 
pebble-beach,  where  agates,  opals,  jas- 
pers, cornelians,  and  other  silicious 
stones,  of  almost  every  conceivable  va- 
riety of  color,  are  found  in  great  abun- 
dance, with  a natural  polish  imparted  by 
the  action  of  the  waves  and  the  smooth 
sea-sand.  ,The  industrious  little  town  of 
Pescadero  annually  makes  and  exports 
to  San  Francisco  175,000  pounds  of 
cheese  and  50,000  pounds  of  butter. 
The  great  “Sanitary  Cheese,”  weighing 
4,000  pounds,  measuring  five  feet  six 
inches  in  diameter,  and  22  inches  thick, 
manufactured  for  the  benefit  of  the  “ San- 
itary Fund,”  1863,  was  made  in  the  Pes- 
cadero Valley.  Pescadero  is  a favorite 
resort  for  San  Francisco  pleasure-seekers. 


MOUTE  XII. 

SACRAMENTO  TO  MARYSVILLE,  CHICO, 
OREGON  CITY,  AND  PORTLAND. 

Via  Central  Pacific  and  Oregon  California 
Railways,  and  by  Sacramento  & Portland 
Stages. 

Central  Pacific  Railway  Stations. 
— Sacramento  to  Antelope,  14|-  miles ; 
Junction,  18. 

California  & Oregon  Railway  Sta- 
tions.— Junction  to  Lincoln,  10  miles; 
Erving’s,  14;  Yuba,  32  ; Marysville  (con- 
nects with  river-boats  to  Sacramento 
Valley,  Nevada,  etc.),  33.  Oroville  (con- 
nects with  California  Northern  Railway 
for  Marysville  and  Sacramento),  28  miles ; 
Chico,  96.  (Stage  for  Roseburg  leaves 
Oroville  and  Chico.) 

Sacramento  & Portland  Stage  Sta- 
tions.— Chico  to  Tehama,  27  miles ; Sac- 
ramento to  Tehama,  123  ; Red  Bluff  (con- 
nects with  river-boats  for  Sacramento), 
135;  Shasta,  170;  Trinity  Centre,  220; 


Callahan’s,  245  ; Yreka,  285  ; Jackson- 
ville (connects  Avith  stage  for  Waldo), 
347;  Rock  Point,  360;  Louse  Creek, 
377  ; Coxton’s,  389 ; Leven’s,  402  ; Ca- 
fionville,  415  ; Roseburg,  442. 

Oregon  & California  Railway  Sta- 
tions.— Roseburg  : Oakland,  460  miles  ; 
Eugene  (connects  with  Portland  by  steam- 
er), 517  ; Salem  (connects  Avith  river- 
boats  for  Portland),  591 ; Oregon  City, 
630  ; Portland  (connects  with  river-boats 
for  the  Upper  Columbia  and  Idaho  ; with 
ocean-steamers  for  Puget  Sound  and  Brit- 
ish Columbia,  and  with  a weekly  line  to 
San  Francisco ; and  with  Portland  divis- 
ion of  Northern  Pacific  Railway),  642. 

Sacramento.  (/See  page  118.) 

Marysville  (52  miles)  is  on  the 
north  bank  of  the  Yuba  River,  near  its 
junction  with  Feather  River.  It  is  the 
chief  town  of  Yuba  County,  the  head  of 
navigation  on  Feather  River,  and  a point 
of  divergence  for  travel  and  freight  to 
the  northern  mines.  Rapidly-accumulat- 
ing deposits  in  the  rivers  may  soon  make 
it  necessary  for  it  to  rely  upon  railroad 
communications  for  its  prosperity,  of 
which  it  has  hitherto  had  as  much  from 
the  facility  of  receiving  its  supplies  of 
merchandise  by  the  Sacramento  and 
Feather  Rivers  as  from  its  proximity  to 
many  of  the  richest  gold-mines  of  the 
State.  One  of  the  finest  orchards  in  the 
State,  located  in  the  border  of  the  city, 
was  nearly  destroyed  by  a deposit  of 
sand  left  by  an  overflow  of  the  Yuba 
River.  The  population  of  the  town  in 
1870  was  4,375.  Marysville  connects 
with  river-boats  for  Sacramento,  with 
the  California  6c  Oregon  Railway  for 
Oroville,  and  with  stages  for  Downieville, 
Grass  Valley,  Nevada,  etc. 

Tlie  Marysville  Suites. — 
From  Marysville  a fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  isolated  chain  of  mountains  known 
as  the  Marysville  Buttes.  They  rise  from 
the  plain  of  the  Sacramento  valley  to  the 
height  of  1,200  feet,  and  extend  for  some 
eight  miles  in  length,  forming  a remarka- 
ble feature  in  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento. 
They  embrace  three  principal  peaks  and 
many  subordinate  ones,  and  from  the 
central,  elevated,  broken,  rocky  mass, 
there  run  off  spurs  in  all  directions, 
forming  valleys  between  them.  It  is 
about  30  miles  around  the  Buttes.  The 
283 


Oroville.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mount  Shasta. 


view  from  the  summit,  which  is  easily 
accessible,  is  superb. 

©roviile  (80  miles  from  Sacramen- 
to), the  capital  of  Butte  County,  is  situ- 
ated at  the  base  of  the  foot-hills  upon 
the  main  Feather  River.  It  is  a mining- 
town  of  some  importance,  with  a rich 
agricultural  country  extending  to  the 
north  and  west.  The  population  is  about 
1,000.  At  Oroville  connection  is  made 
with  stages  for  Shasta^  and  the  northern 
mines.  La  Parte,  Quincy,  Indian  Valley, 
and  Susanville. 

ClaSco  (96  miles),  the  temporary  ter- 
minus of  the  road,  connects  with  stages 
for  Red  Bluffs,  Northern  California,  and 
Portland,  Oregon ; also  with  Sacramento 
by  steamer,  and  by  stage  with  Oroville. 
It  is  a flourishing  town,  having  in  1870 
3,718  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on 
Chico  Creeh^  near  its  junction  with  the 
Sacramento  River,  and  is  the  centre  of  a 
rich  agricultural  region,  from  which  it 
receives  a large  trade. 

ISecl  (135  miles).  Travel- 

ling through  a rich  agricultural  region, 
over  good  roads,  we  cross  the  Sacramento 
River  at  Tehama,  and,  proceeding  up  the 
western  bank  of  that  stream  14  miles,  we 
reach  Red  Bluff,  a village  of  some  1,000 
inhabitants,  the  capital  of  Tehama  Coun- 
ty, and  situated  at  the  head  of  steamboat 
navigation  on  the  Sacramento  River.  A 
large  amount  of  freight  was  formerly 
shipped  from  this  point  for  the  Hum- 
boldt and  Owyhee  mines.  A steamer 
leaves  Sacramento  daily  for  Red  Bluff. 

As  the  traveller  pursues  his  journey 
from  Oroville  toward  the  Oregon  line, 
many  fine  farms  or  ranches  are  passed — 
Bidwell’s  at  Chico,  Neal’s,  and  Lassen’s 
being  the  oldest  and  best  known,  com- 
manding many  fine  views  of  the  moun- 
tains of  the  Coast  Range,  some  of  whose 
peaks  rival  those  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
especially  Mount  St.  Helen,  Mount  Linn, 
and  Mount  St.  John,  which  are  each  some 
7,000  to  9,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  To  the  eastward,  on  our  right,  the 
snow-capped  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
rise  gleaming  in  the  sunshine. 

Beyond  Red  Bluff  we  obtain  a fine 
view  of  the  Lassen  Buttes^  among  the  most 
prominent  peaks  of  the  Sierras.  Beyond 
Cottonwood  Creek,  near  Major  Reading’s 
ranch,  we  get  a splendid  view  of  Mount 
284 


Shasta,  the  highest  mountain  in  Califor- 
nia, a vast  cone  of  snow  rising  to  the 
height  of  15,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  forming  a magnificent  landmark 
at  the  head  of  the  Sacramento  Valley. 

Mount  or  ^ITcUaHte, 

not  only  the  most  striking  topographical 
feature  of  Northern  California,  but  the 
largest  and  grandest  peak  of  the  Cascade 
and  Sierra  Nevada  ranges,  stands  alone, 
at  the  southern  end  of  Shasta  Valley,  in 
latitude  41°  30'  north,  longitude  about 
122°  west.  In  approaching  it  from  the 
north  and  south,  there  is  a gradual  in- 
crease in  the  elevation  of  the  country  for 
about  50  miles.  The  region  near  the  base 
itself  thus  attains  an  altitude  of  3,500 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  forms  a vast  ped- 
estal for  the  Giant  Butte. 

Until  the  visit  of  Colonel  Fremont,  in 
1843,  the  summit  of  Shasta  had  generally 
been  deemed  inaccessible — 

“ Aspiring  to  the  eagle's  cloudless  height, 

No  human  foot  hath  stained  its  snowy  side, 

Nor  human  breath  has  dimmed  the  icy  mirror 
Which  it  holds  unto  the  moon,  and  stars,  and 
sovereign 

Sun.  We  may  not  grow  familiar  with  the  secrets 

Of  its  hoary  top,  whereon  the  G-enius 

Of  that  mountain  builds  his  glorious  throne  I " ♦ 

“ The  view  of  the  mountain  from  Shasta 
plains  is  very  grand.  With  no  inter- 
vening mountains  to  obstruct  the  pros- 
pect, the  base  is  seen  resting  among 
dense,  evergreen  forests;  higher  up,  it 
is  girdled  with  hardy  plants  and  shrubs 
to  the  region  of  frosts,  and  thence  the 
sheeting  snow.  From  the  northeast  and 
southwest  a double  summit,  of  unequal 
heights,  is  presented — ^both  rounded  and 
loaded  with  perpetual  snow;  but,  from 
most  points,  a single  cone  is  shown.  Ris- 
ing abruptly  in  grandeur  and  great  beauty 
of  outline,  its  white,  cloud-like  form, 
drawn  clearly  against  the  sky,  is  plainly 
visible  from  points  to  the  south  more 
than  200  miles  distant.  There  are  sea- 
sons, however,  when  the  monarch,  shroud- 
ing the  white  robes  that  glisten  in  the 
summer  sun,  retires  to  gloomy  solitudes, 
and  sits  a storm-king  upon  the  clouds, 
invisible  to  mortal  eye. 

“ In  the  forests  around  Mount  Shasta 
are  found  the  maple,  evergreen-oak,  and 
several  varieties  of  pine,  including  the 

* Ode  to  Mount  Shasta,  by  John  K.  Kidgo. 


Shasta.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Jacksonville. 


spruce,  cedar,  and  fir.  Chief  among  them 
all  for  symmetry  and  perfection  of  figure, 
is  the  majestic  sugar-pine,  nearly  equal- 
ling the  red-wood  in  size,  and  excelled  by 
none  as  a beautiful  forest-tree. 

“ The  ascent  may  be  accomplished  in  a 
favorable  season — -in  August  or  Septem- 
ber— without  much  danger  or  difficulty, 
by  stout,  resolute  men.  The  extreme 
exhaustion  realized  in  ascending  Mounts 
Blanc  or  Popocatapetl,  is  not  experi- 
enced ; nor  is  the  trial  so  dangerous  by 
reason  of  huge  fissures  and  icy  chasms ; 
the  main  difficulty  arises  from  the  rare- 
fied condition  of  the  air,  to  which  the 
system  must  adapt  itself  rather  suddenly 
for  comfort. 

“ Shasta  Valley  spread  beneath  our  feet 
its  grassy  plains  and  evergreen  groves, 
dotted  with  villages,  mines,  and  farms, 
the  v/hole  affording  scenes  unequalled  in 
beauty,  variety,  and  extent  of  landscape, 
and  which  may  not  be  adequately  de- 
scribed.” 

(170  miles)  is  situated  in 
the  foot-hills  of  the  mountains  stretching 
across  the  northern  end  of  the  State,  con- 
necting the  northern  Sierras  with  the 
Coast  Range.  It  is  a mining  town  of 
about  800  inhabitants,  at  what  was  once 
the  northern  extremity  of  wagon  travel. 
Formerly  all  goods  destined  for  mines 
farther  north,  had  to  be  packed  on  mules, 
but  there  is  now  a good  wagon-road  over 
the  Siskiyou  Mountains,  by  the  California 
Stage  Company,  for  tlie  purpose  of  trans- 
porting the  United  States  mail  between 
Sacramento  and  Portland,  Oregon. 

From  Shasta  the  rich  mining  localities 
in  the  vicinity  of  Weaverville,  distant  38 
miles,  and  Humboldt  Bay,  on  the  Pacific 
coast,  some  75  miles  distant,  can  be  vis- 
ited on  horse  or  muleback. 

Leaving  Shasta  for  Yreka,  we  pass  the 
Tower  House,  12  miles ; French  Gulch,  16 
miles  ; Mountain  House,  23  miles  ; Gibbs’s 
Ferry,  35  miles ; Chadbourne,  43  miles  ; 
Trinity  Centre,  49  miles;  and  Thomp- 
son’s, 60  miles  ; arriving  at  New  York 
House,  64  miles,  at  the  base  of  Scott 
Mountain,  which  is  now  to  be  climbed. 
In  a distance  of  six  miles  farther  we  rise 
2,060  feet.  Every  foot  of  the  distance 
has  been  made  into  an  excellent  road-way 
by  cutting  into  the  solid  rock,  bridging 
chasms,  excavating  the  precipitous  side 


of  the  mountain,  walling  up  with  stone, 
clearing  away  a dense  growth  of  timber, 
and  overcoming  other  obstacles.  On  the 
right  rises  the  perpendicular  embank- 
ment created  in  excavating  for  the  road, 
while  on  the  left  the  traveller  looks  down 
a fearful  precipice,  its  side  bristling  with 
sharp  and  jagged  rocks.  The  summit 
reached, we  are  upward  of  5,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  Here,  to  the  right, 
we  again  have  a glorious  view  of  Mount 
Shasta,  covered  with  its  snowy  shroud. 
A continuous  descent  of  seven  miles  brings 
us  to  the  head  of  Scott  Valley^  and  three 
miles  beyond  is  Callahan^ s Ranch,  Scott 
Valley  is  a level  area  40  miles  long  and 
from  three  to  nine  miles  wide,  a beautiful 
tract  of  country,  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by 
bold  and  precipitous  mountains.  Passing 
through  Fort  Jones^  22  miles  north,  and 
crossing  a lofty  divide  at  the  termination 
of  the  valley,  we  arrive  at  Yreka,  115 
miles  from  Shasta. 

IfreBia  (285  miles),  the  capital  of 
Siskiyou  County,  was  formerly  the  most 
important  mining-town  north  of  Oroville. 
It  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  is  well 
laid  out,  has  many  fine  buildings,  and  is 
lighted  by  gas.  It  is  situated  in  the 
valley  of  the  Shasta  Creek,  is  encom- 
passed by  mountains,  and  is  distant  from 
the  Oregon  State  line  28  miles.  The 
mines  in  the  vicinity  are  very  productive, 
giving  the  place  a steady  and  rapid 
growth.  A fine  view  of  Mount  Shasta, 
distant  some  30  miles,  is  attained  from 
the  ridge  east  of  the  town. 

Proceeding  north,  v.^e  pass  through 
Cottonwood^  20  miles,  to  Colds,  28  miles, 
where  there  is  a good  way-side  inn. 
Here  we  ascend  the  Siskiyou  Mountain, 
four  miles,  and  from  its  summit  get  the 
last  glimpse  of  Mount  Shasta.  Descend- 
ing the  mountain  four  miles  to  its  base, 
and  traversing  20  miles  of  rolling  coun- 
try, we  arrive  at 

•ffaclksoaaville,  © g*  m . (347 

miles),  the  principal  town  of  Southern 
Oregon,  situated  in  the  fertile  Rogue  River 
Valley,  about  nine  miles  south  of  that 
river.  It  is  noted  for  its  fine  scenery 
and  the  salubrity  of  its  climate.  The 
soil  is  favorable  for  grain  and  fruits. 
Crops  have  never  failed  since  the  first 
settlement  of  the  valley  in  1852. 

(442  miles)  is  where 
285 


Eugene  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Feather  River. 


the  traveller  ap^ain  strikes  the  railroad 
which  is  completed  from  this  place  to 
Portland,  200  miles  distant.  The  entire 
road  will  shortly  be  in  operation. 

filug'eiie  City,  O^n.  (517  miles), 
the  capital  of  Lane  County,  is  on  the 
Willamette  River^  about  80  miles  above 
Salem.  Population  about  1,000.  Eugene 
connects  with  Portland  by  steamer. 

A11>aiiy,  Og*M.  (567  miles),  the 
chief  town  of  Linn  County,  is  on  the 
WillameMe  River ^ about  110  miles  above 
Portland.  It  is  surrounded  by  a rich 
farming-country,  and  connects  with  Port- 
land by  steamer. 

Ogn.  (591  miles),  is  the 
capital  of  the  State.  It  is  situated  in 
the  midst  of  a fine  farming-country,  on 
the  east  bank  of  Willamette  River,  50 
miles  southwest  from  Portland,  and  62 
miles  from  Columbia  River.  The  popu- 
lation is  about  5,000.  The  city  is  main- 
ly indebted  for  its  prosperity  to  the  agri- 
cultural resources  of  the  fertile  country 
in  which  it  lies.  It  has  good  water- 
power, which  is  much  improved  by  bring- 
ing water  from  the  Santiam  River  to  the 
Willamette  by  means  of  a canal.  Among 
the  manufacturing  establishments  of  Sa- 
lem are  a woollen-mill,  using  annually 
400,000  lbs.  of  wool,  and  employing  150 
operatives,  and  a large  flouring-mill. 
The  Willamette  University  is  a flourish- 
ing institution,  on  the  same  side  of  the 
river.  Apple  and  various  other  fruit 
trees  abound  in  the  vicinity.  Salem  con- 
nects by  steamer  with  Portland. 

Oregon  City,  Ogm.  (630  miles), 
is  a place  of  about  2,000  inhabitants,  at 
the  Falls  of  the  Willamette.  The  main 
portion  of  the  city  extends  for  nearly  a 
mile  under  a bluff  rising  to  a height  of 
140  feet  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
some  500  feet  from  its  bank.  The  top 
of  the  bluffs  affords  a fine  view  of  the 
falls,  the  city,  and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try. The  falls  are  semicircular,  having  a 
descent  of  38  feet.  They  constitute  one 
of  the  finest  water-powers  in  the  world. 
A breakwater  has  been  constructed  here 
by  the  People'’ s Transportation  Company. 
It  extends  some  distance,  forming  a basin 
large  enough  to  receive  and  discharge 
freight  from  the  upper  Willamette  into 
the  boats  below  the  falls.  The  basin  is 
also  used  for  water-powers.  There  are 
286 


two  flourishing  flour-mills  in  the  city — 
the  Imperial,  with  six  run  of  stone,  hav- 
ing a grinding  capacity  of  200,000  bush- 
els of  wheat,  and  the  Oregon  City  Mills, 
with  four  run  of  stone,  of  150,000  bush- 
els. The  city  has  the  largest  woollen- 
manufactory  in  the  State,  giving  employ- 
ment to  about  100  persons,  and  capable 
of  manufacturing  1,000,000  lbs.  of  wool 
per  annum. 

Ogn.  (642  miles),  will 
be  described  in  Route  XIV. 


MOUTE  XIII. 

SACRAMENTO  TO  MARYSVILLE. 

By  Steamer  up  the  Sacramento  and  Feather 
Rivers. 

Landings.  — Sacramento  to  Russian 
Crossing,  10  miles  : Fremont,  25 ; Nico- 
laus, 40;  Hock  Farm,  55;  Plumas,  57; 
Eliza,  62  ; Marysville  (connects  with  cars 
for  Oroville),  65. 

Sacramento  is  described  in  Through 
Route  XVIII.  {see  page  118),  and  the 
Sacramento  River,  as  far  north  as  that 
city,  is  described  in  Route  I.  of  Cali- 
fornia. 

On  each  side  of  the  river,  as  we  ascend 
it,  the  overflowing  water  is  seen  covering 
the  adjacent  country  in  some  places  for 
many  miles,  giving  the  appearance  of 
a succession  of  lakes.  The  tributaries 
of  the  Sacramento  are  all  similarly  swol- 
len, and  the  destruction  of  property  on 
their  banks  must  be  immense.  Orchards, 
vineyards,  gardens,  and  thousands  of 
acres  of  rich  bottom-lands,  are  under  wa- 
ter. Leaving  Sacramento  a few  miles 
behind  us,  we  find  the  “ tules  ” {see  page 
268)  disappearing,  and,  before  we  reach 
Knight’s  Landing,  they  have  given  way 
to  wheat-fields  and  gardens  which  line 
the  river-banks. 

About  25  or  30  miles  above  Sacra- 
mento, the  Sacramento  River  receives 
one  of  its  largest  affluents, 

Feallier  Miver,  which  we  ascend 
at  Vernon,  and  find  also  to  be  rolling 
down  a swift  tide  of  turbid  water,  thick 
with  sediment  from  the  gold  belt  of  the 
mountain-region,  the  great  source  of 
sand-bars  and  general  lifting  of  the  river- 
bed and  obstruction  of  the  channel,  thus 
impeding  steamboat  navigation,  as  well 


Nicolaus.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Arcata. 


as  injuring  seriously  the  agricultural  in- 
terests of  the  State  by  increasing  the  lia- 
bility to  overflow. 

Large  timber  is  only  occasionally  seen 
along  the  river-banks,  and  this  diflers 
from  that  of  the  Atlantic  States,  in  the 
gnarled  and  scraggy  appearance  of  the 
trees.  The  usual  inhabitants  of  these 
forests  are  the  Digger  Indians^  whose 
lodges — if  such  they  can  be  called,  which 
are  merely  hollow  mounds  of  earth  into 
which  they  burrow  through  a hole — 
stand  in  clusters,  giving  shelter  to  the 
most  wretched-looking  of  the  native  races, 
whose  food  is  the  acorn  and  such  escu- 
lent roots  as  they  can  dig  from  the  earth, 
seasoned  occasionally  with  a worm  or  a 
grasshopper ; and  whose  clothing,  if  clad 
at  all,  the  tattered  cast-off  garments  of 
the  miner,  picked  up  on  the  way-side. 

Nicolaus  (40  miles)  is  a dull,  un- 
important town,  of  about  500  population, 
situated  at  the  junction  of  Bear  and 
Feather  Divers,  The  lands  surrounding 
it  used  to  be  among  the  best  for  farming 
purposes  in  this  part  of  the  State,  but 
the  frequent  overflows  of  Bear  River 
have  almost  ruined  them. 

Proceeding  up  the  Feather  River,  we 
pass  Hock  Tow7i^  a beautiful  place  owned 
by  the  venerable  pioneer  of  California, 
General  Sutter.  The  old  farm-house  and 
iron  fort  stand  on  the  bank,  which  is 
lined  here  with  enormous  fig-trees.  Be- 
hind these  we  catch  a glimpse  of  the  or- 
chards and  vineyards  planted  by  the 
general  nearly  half  a century  ago. 

We  reach  the  junction  of  the  Yuba 
and  Feather  Rivers^  to  the  right  (entering 
Yuba),  and  soon  arrive  at 

Marysville  (G5  miles).  {See  page 


BOUTI]  XIV. 

SAF  FRAFCISCO  UP  THE  COAST. 

To  Portland^  Oregon^  Puget  Sou/nd^  Washing - 
ton  Territory^  and  British  Colmnbia. 

Steamers  leave  San  Francisco  every 
few  days  for  Oregon,  Washington  Terri- 
tory, and  Victoria,  in  the  British  posses- 
sions, touching  at  Mendocino,  Humboldt 
Bay,  Trinidad,  Crescent  City,  Port  Ox- 
ford, Portland,  and  sometimes  Vancouver, 
on  the  Columbia  River,  and  various  points 
on  Puget  Sound,  and  Victoria  on  Van- 


couver’s Island.  The  steamers  of  the 
North  Pacific  Transportation  Company 
leave  San  Francisco  every  ten  days  for 
Portland,  connecting  at  Astoria^  with 
steamer,  for  Monticello  ; and  at  Portland, 
with  steamer  for  Victoria,  B.  C.,  with 
the  Oregon  Steam  N avigation  Company’s 
steamers  for  Dalles  and  Wallula^  and 
with  the  People’s  Transportation  Com- 
pany’s steamers  for  all  points  on  the 
Willamette  River,  Portland  is  reached 
in  about  three  days  by  steamer.  By 
rail  and  stage-coach,  as  described  in 
Route  XII.  of  California,  the  journey 
occupies  a week.  Tourists  should  go 
one  way  and  return  by  the  other,  at 
least  till  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  is 
completed.  Many  of  the  northern  mines 
near  the  coast  are  easily  accessible  from 
Humboldt  Bay,  Trinidad,  Crescent  City, 
and  Port  Oxford  in  Oregon,  the  gold- 
range  approaching  the  coast.  Coal  is 
also  found  in  immense  beds  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  Coosa  Bay,  Oregon. 

Embarking  on  one  of  the  California 
Steam  Navigation  or  North  Pacific  Trans- 
portation Company’s  lines  for  a trip  up  the 
coast,  we  touch  at  Mendocino,  or  pass  it, 
128  miles  northwest  of  San  Francisco; 
Humboldt  Bay,  upon  which  the  thriving 
towns  of  Eureka  and  Areata  are  situated, 
230  miles ; arriving  at  Crescent  City, 
some  300  miles  from  San  Francisco. 

Mendocino  City,  Cal*  (128 
miles),  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the 
same  name,  is  on  the  north  shore  of  Men- 
docino Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big 
River.  It  is  the  shipping-point  for  large 
quantities  of  lumber  from  the  extensive 
redwood-forests  of  the  county. 

Slureka,  Cal*  (223  miles),  the 
capital  of  Humboldt  County,  is  the  prin- 
cipal centre  of  the  large  lumber-trade 
on  Humboldt  Bay^  being  surrounded  by 
dense  redwood-forests,  and  is  also  the 
principal  depot  of  the  farm  lands  of  Eel 
River  Valley.  It  is  a flourishing  place 
of  about  3,000  inhabitants.  It  connects 
with  Petaluma  by  stage,  via  Cloverdale. 

Ai*cata,  Cal*  (236  miles),  is  on  a 
level  plateau  at  the  head  of  Humboldt  Bay. 
It  does  a large  trade  with  the  mining- 
region  of  the  interior,  and  is  the  centre 
of  a section  noted  for  the  production  of 
potatoes.  Stages  run  from  Areata  to 
Cloverdale  Sonoma  County. 

287 


Ckescent  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Puget  Sound. 


Crescent  City,  Cal.  (280  miles), 
the  capital  of  Del  Norte  County,  situated 
on  a safe  little  harbor,  is  the  natural 
shipping-point  for  a large  part  of  the 
interior.  A good  wagon-road  connects 
it  with  Jacksonville  and  the  mines  of 
Southwestern  Oregon. 

Proceeding  north  we  touch  Port  Ox- 
ford (70  miles),  from  which  much  lum- 
ber is  exported;  Fort  Umpqua  (140 
miles),  near  the  mouth  of  Umpqua  River^ 
which  drains  a fertile  and  productive 
valley,  and  arrive  at  Astoria. 

Astoria,  (800  miles  north 

of  Crescent  City,  and  566  miles  north 
of  San  Francisco),  is  a flourishing  place 
on  a harbor  formed  by  the  widening 
of  Columbia  River,  nine  miles  from  its 
mouth.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  ports 
on  the  northern  coast,  and  its  excellent 
/ocation  would  seem  favorable  to  making 
it  one  of  the  principal  ports  in  the  State. 
Astoria  connects  by  steamer  for  Monti- 
cello. 

CoSam'foia  ISiver. — The  scenery 
of  the  Columbia  River  is  wild  and  grand 
beyond  description.  Vessels  of  the  lar- 
gest size  proceed  up  the  river  from  As- 
toria, at  the  mouth,  to  Vancouver,  a dis- 
tance of  about  100  miles,  and  beyond  to 
the  falls  of  the  river,  where  the  Cascade 
Range  of  mountains  crosses.  Some  of 
the  mountain-peaks  of  the  Cascade 
Range,  among  which  may  be  mentioned 
Mount  Ilood^  Mount  Jefferson^  and  Mount 
Si.  Helenh^  rival  those  of  the  Andes. 
They  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow, 
and  can  be  seen  from  various  parts  of 
the  river. 

S®ortland,  (670  miles  from 

San  Francisco),  the  chief  city  of  Ore- 
gon, and  the  Columbia  basin,  the  north- 
ern terminus  of  the  California  & Ore- 
gon Railway,  is  situated  on  the  Wil- 
lamette River,  near  its  confluence  with 
the  Columbia.  It  contains  about  12,000 
inhabitants.  The  Willamette  River.,  flow- 
ing north  between  the  Coast  and  Cascade 
Ranges  of  mountains,  empties  into  the 
Columbia  about  100  miles  from  the  ocean. 
The  valley  of  the  Willamette  is  the  gar- 
den of  Oregon,  and  contains  a large  pop- 
ulation of  permanent  settlers,  many  of 
whom  had  located  on  farms  some  time 
before  the  settlement  of  California  by 
Americans  commenced.  A month’s  travel 
288 


to  the  various  places  and  points  of  inter- 
est on  the  Columbia  would  amply  repay 
the  tourist.  (For  continuation  of  the 
route,  see  chapters  on  Oregon  and  Wash- 
ington.) Portland  connects  with  steam- 
ers for  Victoria,  Dalles,  and  Wallula. 

;P*Tiiget  — Proceeding  up 

the  coast  we  find  no  other  seaport  till 
we  reach  Puget  Sound,  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  harbors  in  the  world.  While 
the  sound  is  so  deep  that  vessels  of  the 
heaviest  burden  can  traverse  any  part 
of  it  with  safety,  it  is  nowhere  too  deep 
for  convenient  anchorage ; and  in  many 
places  vessels  can  ride  boldly  up  to  the 
shore  for  purposes  of  loading,  without  the 
intervention  of  wharves.  The  lumber 
from  some  of  the  saw -mills  on  the  sound 
is  shipped  in  this  way.  Puget  Sound  is 
reached  by  a daily  line  of  steamers  from 
Portland,  Oregon,  to  Monticello,  Wash- 
ington, situated  on  the  Cowlitz  River, 
two  miles  above  its  mouth,  thence  by 
stage  to  Olympia  twice  a week.  Entire 
distance  from  Portland  to  Olympia,  92 
miles.  The  journey  takes  two  days. 
From  Olympia,  the  route  is  continued 
tri-weekly  to  ^Victoria,  Vancouver’s  Isl- 
and, by  steamer,  which  touches  at  the 
principal  landings  on  the  sound.  Agri- 
culture and  the  manufacture  of  lumber 
form  the  leading  interests  of  this  region. 
Several  thrifty  towns  have  sprung  up  on 
different  inlets  of  the  sound,  among  them 
Port  T mnsend.,  Olympia.,  being  the  cap- 
ital of  Washington  Territory,  situated  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  superb  water-power 
of  Turn-water,  Steilacoom^  and  Seattle., 
which  are  the  termini  of  trails  and  mili- 
tary roads  leading  through  the  Cascade 
Range  to  the  mineral  regions  beyond. 
{See  chapter  on  Washington  Territory.) 
Whitbfs  Island,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
sound,  contains  many  fine  farms,  and  its 
verdant  bluffs,  rising  boldly  from  the 
water’s  edge,  are  very  beautiful  in  spring 
and  summer.  Several  majestic  mountain- 
peaks  are  visible  from  the  waters  of  the 
sound,  forming  some  of  the  most  sublime 
scenes  on  the  western  coast  of  America. 
Among  these  are  Mount  Baker,  Mount 
St.  HelerCs,  and  Mount  Rainier,  whose 
summits  are  from  12,000  to  15,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  covered 
with  perpetual  snow.  Some  of  these 
have  shown  volcanic  action  within  the 


Vancouver.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[San  Joaquin  River. 


last  few  years.  Mount  JBaker^  14,000 
feet  high,  was  in  active  eruption  in  1860. 
From  Port  Townsend  the  traveller  can 
reach  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  indeed 
Sacramento  in  California,  without  return- 
ing by  the  ocean  route.  Proceeding  by 
steamer  to  the  head  of  the  sound  at 
Olympia,  or  by  stage  on  the  west  side  of 
the  sound  to  the  same  point,  he  can  jour- 
ney thence  through  the  Cowlitz  farms 
to  Vancouver  on  the  Columbia  River. 

VancoM-VCi*,  formerly  the  capital 
of  Washington  Territory,  is  a flourishing 
town,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia 
River.  The  distance  from  Vancouver  to 
Portland  is  18  miles  by  water,  and  the 
entire  distance  from  Port  Townsend  to 
Portland  is  about  230  miles.  From 
Portland  the  daily  overland  mail  to  Sac- 
ramento takes  the  traveller  up  the  val- 
ley of  the ' Willamette,  across  Umpqua 
and  Rogue  Rivers  to  Jacksonville,  and 
thence  through  Yreka,  Shasta,  and  Marys- 
ville to  Sacramento,  642  miles  from  Port- 
land, making  the  longest  stage-route  in 
the  Union,  with  the  exception  of  that 
now  almost  out  of  use  across  the  conti- 
nent between  California  and  the  Missouri 
River. 

The  eastern  slope  of  the  Cascade 
Range  in  Washington  Territory,  though 
but  partially  developed,  gives  indications 
of  great  mineral  wealth.  The  Wenat- 
chee, Samilkameen,  and  Rock  Creek 
gold  regions,  have  attracted  many  ad- 
venturers, and  yielded  their  treasures 
bountifully.  From  Steilacoom  a military 
wagon-road  leads  through  a pass  in  the 
Cascade  Range  to  Walla- Walla  {see  chap- 
ter on  Washington  Territory),  250 
miles  southeast  on  the  Columbia  River. 
Beyond  Walla- Walla  lies  the  Nez  Perces 
gold-region. 

Victoria,  on  Vancouver  Island, 
the  principal  town  of  British  Columbia, 
is  a free  port  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  Vancouver  Island,  opposite  the  mouth 
of  Admiralty  Inlet  or  Puget  Sound. 
Esquimau^  three  miles  distant,  is  a naval 
station,  much  frequented  by  British  men- 
of-war  on  the  Pacific  coast.  The  coal- 
mines of  Ranaimo  on  the  north,  the  gold- 
fields of  Cariboo,  in  British  Columbia, 
and  the  large  lumber-region  of  Puget 
Sound  on  the  south,  are  all  tributary  to 
Victoria.  The  vicinity  of  the  port  offers 
13 


the  greatest  inducements  to  tourists  and 
pleasure-parties.  The  climate  is  warm 
and  pleasant,  the  mean  average  in  sum- 
mer being  from  60°  to  65° ; there  are 
charming  scenery,  excellent  roads,  and 
good  shooting,  fishing,  boating,  and  hunt- 
ing. The  population  of  Victoria  is  about 
5,000. 

New  Westminster,  the  capital 
of  British  Columbia,  and  next  to  Vic- 
toria the  largest  town  in  the  British 
dominions  on  the  Pacific,  is  situated  on 
Fraser  River,  near  the  head  of  navigation. 


MOUTE  XV 

8A2T  FRAITCISCO  TO  THE  BIG  TREES 
OF  CALAVERAS,  AND  TO  TEE  NAT 
RAL  CA  VE8  AND  BRIDGES. 

By  Railway  or  Steamer  to  Stockton  ; thence 
to  Big  Trees  ma  Stockton  <&,  Copper opoUs 
Railway,  and  ly  Stages. 

Stations.  — Stockton  & CopperopoUs 
Railway.,  etc, : Stockton  (90  miles  from 
San  Francisco)  to  Milton,  28  miles ; 
Murphy’s,  53  ; Big  Trees,  68  (158  miles 
from  San  Francisco) ; Natural  Caves,  1^72 
miles  from  San  Francisco. 

The  trip  from  San  Francisco  to  Stock- 
ton  may  be  made  by  taking  the  cars  of 
the  Western  Pacific  Railway  at  Oakland, 
or  by  the  steamers  which  leave  Broad- 
way Street  wharf  daily,  except  Sunday, 
up  San  Francisco  Bay  and  San  Joaquin 
River,  touching  at  Benicia  (30  miles), 
New  York  Landing  (45  miles),  and  An- 
tioch, at  the  mouth  of  the*  Joaquin  (50 
miles). 

The  route  from  San  Francisco  to  Stock- 
ton  by  the  Western  Pacific  Railway 
has  been  described  in  Through  Route 
XVIII.  (<Sc!e  pages  119-121.) 

The  steamboat  route  up  the  Bays  of 
San  Francisco  and  San  Pablo  has  been 
described  in  Route  I.  of  California. 
{See  pages  267,  268.) 

Joa^q^uiii  River  is  a shal- 
low, winding  stream,  its  banks  covered 
on  either  side  with  tules.  It  is  divided 
into  three  branches,  called,  respectively, 
the  west,  middle,  and  east  channels.  The 
middle  channel  is  the  one  used  by  the 
Stockton  steamboats,  except  within  four 
miles  of  that  city,  from  which  point  the 
Stockton  slough  is  used.  The  east  or 
main  channel  is  navigable  for  small, 
289 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Yosemite  Rfiaioif. 


stern-wheel  steamers  as  far  up  as  Frczno 
City,  Among  the  many  tributaries  of 
the  San  Joaquin  are  the  Mokelurnne, 
Calaveras,  Stanislaus,  Tuolumne,  and 
Merced  Rivers. 

Antiocli  (50  miles^from  San  Fran- 
cisco) is  the  depot  of  the  Monte  Diablo 
coal-mines. 

Milton  (118  miles)  is  on  the  Stock- 
ton  <Sc  Copperopolis  Railway,  This  new 
road  carries  the  tourist  over  the  hottest, 
dustiest,  and  most  uninteresting  portion 
of  the  distance  from  Stockton  to  the  Big 
Trees  and  the  Yosemite.  Copperopolis 
is  on  one  of  the  shortest  routes  to  both 
places,  so  that  every  mile  of  rail  saves 
one  of  stage-riding.  The  distance  by 
stage  from  Milton  is  47  miles.  The  dis- 
tance to  Hutchings’s  Hotel  from  Stock- 
ton,  by  the  Tuolumne,  Big  Oak  Flat,  is 
109  miles,  including  28  by  rail,  65  by 
stage  and  16  by  horseback. 

Sisson  & Co.’s  stages  leave  Milton 
daily  from  Murphy’s  (25  miles),  Nassau 
Valley,  Altaville,  Angel’s  Camp  (formerly 
surrounded  by  rich  placer-mines),  and 
Valicita.  The  route  is  a pleasant  one, 
lying  through  country  abounding  in  pic- 
turesque scenery.  The  stages  are  com- 
fortable, and  the  journey  is  made  as 
rapidly  as  possible.  It  is  usual  to  stay 
over  at  Murphy’s,  where  good  accommo- 
dations may  be  had  at  from  $2  to  $3, 
and  start  by  stage  in  the  morning  for  the 
Big  Trees,  distant  15  miles.  This  part 
of  the  route  is  very  beautiful  for  several 
miles,  the  tourist  following  a clear  stream 
of  water  through  shady  groves  of  pines 
and  oaks.  There  is  a good  hotel  at  the 
grove ; expenses  $3  per  day. 

Tlie  Big:  Trees  (158  miles)  are 
considered  by  some  travellers  one  of  the 
greatest  wonders  of  the  world.  They 
are  situated  in  Calaveras  County,  near 
the  Stanislaus  River,  The  grove  was 
discovered  before  the  Mariposa  grove, 
and  consequently  obtained  more  notorie- 
ty. There  are  between  30  and  40  “ big 
trees  ” here,  and  a much  larger  number 
of  smaller  ones  of  the  same  species. 
The  largest,  “ Mother  of  the  Forest  f is 
61  feet  in  circumference  at  the  height  of 
6 feet  from  the  ground.  The  highest  is 
the  Keystone  State^'^  325  feet  in  height ; 
one  of  the  trees  of  this  grove  which  was 
felled  occupied  five  men  for  21  days, 
290 


pump-augers  being  used  for  boring 
through  the  tree.  After  the  trunk  was 
severed  from  the  stump  it  took  the  five 
men  three  days,  with  ponderous  wedges, 
to  topple  it  over.  The  bark  was  18 
inches  in  thickness. 

The  whole  number  of  trees  is  92 ; 
height  from  150  to  325  feet ; diameter 
10  to  30^  feet ; elevation  above  the  sea 
4,759  feet;  age,  from  1,200  to  2,500 
years.  At  the  South  Grove  (six  miles 
from  the  Calaveras),  there  are  1,380 
trees,  they  are  of  larger  size  than  in  any 
other  grove.  The  trip  is  made  on  horse- 
back, and  takes  about  two  hours. 
Stages  return  to  Murphy’s  every  even- 
ing, from  which  place  one  may  proceed 
to  Yosemite,  via  Big  Oak  Flat,  or  Coul- 
terville,  or  may  return  to  San  Francisco  ; 
but,  after  seeing  the  Big  Trees  of  Cala- 
veras, the  tourist  should,  if  possible,  visit 

Tlie  Natural  Caves  aad 
Bridiges  in  the  same  county.  The 
caves  are  situated  on  what  is  called  Mc- 
Kinney’s Humbug,  a tributary  of  the  Cala- 
veras River,  near  the  mouth  of  O’Neill’s 
Creek,  14  miles  west  of  the  Big  Trees, 
16  miles  south  of  Mokelurnne  Hill,  and 
9 miles  east  of  San  Andreas.  The 
bridges  are  on  Cayote  Creek,  midway  be- 
tween Valicita  and  McLanes  Ferry,  on 
the  Stanislaus  River.  The  entire  water 
of  Cayote  Creek  runs  beneath  these 
bridges.  The  bold,  rocky,  and  precipi- 
tous banks  of  the  stream,  both  above  and 
below  the  bridges,  present  a counterpart 
of  wild  scenery  in  perfect  keeping  with 
the  strange  beauty  and  picturesque  gran- 
deur of  their  interior  formation. 

THE  YOSEMITE  BEGIOJST. 

ROUTES  TO  THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY 

AND  THE  BIG  TREES  OF  MARIPOSA. 

No  one  who  visits  California  should 
fail  to  see  the  Yosemite  Valley  and  the 
Big  Trees,  which  may  truly  be  classed 
among  the  great  wonders  of  the  world. 
There  are  four  principal  routes  to  this 
remarkable  region,  the  two  main  ones 
being  represented  by  the  rival  railway 
companies  of  the  State,  viz.,  the  Central 
Pacific  and  the  California  Pacific.^ 

* Since  the  above  was  in  type,  the  Central  Pa- 
cific Kailroad  Company  has  purchased  the  Cali- 
fornia Pacific  Railroad  line  between  Vallejo  and 
Sacramento, 


291 


Oektsal  Pacific  Railway.]  WESTERN  TOUR.  [Central  Pacific  Railway. 


By  the  first  of  these  latter  one  reaches 
Modesta,  on  the  Visalia  Division  of  the 
road,  and  proceeds  thence  to  Yoseraite 
by  stage  or  private  conveyance,  and  on 
horseback,  via  Snelling,  Hornitos,  Bear 
Valley,  Princeton,  Mariposa,  White  and 
Hatch’s,  and  Clark’s,  taking  in  the  Mari- 
posa Big  Trees. 

By  the  California  Pacific  route  the 
tourist  reaches  Stockton  from  San  Fran- 
cisco by  steamer  up  the  bays  of  San 
Francisco  and  San  Pablo,  and  the  San 
Joaquin  River,  and  takes  the  cars  of  the 
Stocldon  Copperopolis  Railway  for  Mil- 
ton.  Before  proceeding  to  Yosemite,  he 
can  visit  the  Big  Trees  of  Calaveras  from 


Milton,  and  continue  his  way  to  the  val- 
ley and  the  Big  Trees  of  Mariposa  by 
way  of  Sonora  and  Chinese  Camp. 

From  Sacramento,  the  best  route  is  by 
the  Wedcrn  Division  of  the  Central  Pacific 
Railway  to  Galt,  thence  by  stage  via  Jack- 
son  and  Mokelumne  Hill,  to  the  Big  Trees 
of  Calaveras,  and  to  the  valley  and  the 
Big  Trees  of  Mariposa  by  way  of  Sonora 
and  Chinese  Camp. 

What  is  known  as  the  Coulterville  route 
is  by  way  of  Stockton,  Knight’s  Ferry, 
Coulterville,  Bower  Cave,  Tamarack  Flat, 
to  the  Yosemite,  and  thence  south  to 
Clark’s  and  the  Big  Trees  of  Mari- 
posa. 


THE  CENTEAL  PACIFIC  EAILWAY  OE  MAEIPOSA  ROUTE. 


By  Rail. 
By  Stage. 


On 

Ilorsehack. 


( San  Francisco  to  Lathrop 

1 Lathrop  to  Modesta 

Modesta  to  Mariposa 

Mariposa  to  White  and  Hatch’s 

'White  and  Hatch’s  to  Clark’s 

Clark’s  to  Alder  Creek 

Alder  Creek  to  Empire  Camp 

Empire  Camp  to  Westfall’s  Meadow 

Westfall’s  Meadow  to  Inspiration  Point. 
^ Inspiration  Point  to  Lower  Hotel 


Total  distance 


MILKS. 

81 

20  —101 
69 

12  — 81 
12 

4 

5 

T|—  88 


By  Rail,  -j 
By  Stage,  -j 


Sacramento  to  Lathrop 

Lathrop  to  Modesta 

Modesta  to  Mariposa 

Mariposa  to  White  and  Hatch’s, 


f White  and  Hatch’s  to  Clark’s 

On  J Clark’s  to  Westfall’s  Meadow 

Ilorsebacic.  1 Westfall’s  Meadow  to  Inspiration  Point, 
[ Inspiration  Point  to  Lower  Hotel 


57 

20  — 77 
69 

12  — 81 
12 

7i—  33 


Total  distance 


196 


This  is  a favorite  route  to  the  Yo- 
semite and  the  Mariposa  Big  Trees,  and 
quite  a cheap  one,  the  whole  cost  from 
San  Francisco  being  $25,  or  $46  both 
ways,  covering  passage  by  rail,  stage,  and 
horseback,  the  expense  of  guides,  packing 
baggage,  and,  in  fact,  every  thing  but 
board  and  lodging.  The  trip  to  the  val- 
ley may  be  made  in  48  hours  by  this 
route,  of  which  period  little  more  than 
30  hours  are  spent  in  actual  travel.  In 
six  days,  therefore,  the  tourist  can  visit 
Yosemite  and  spend  two  days  in  seeing 
its  scenery,  although  ten  days  at  least 
should  be  given  to  the  trip. 

The  proper  way  for  travellers  is,  un- 
doubtedly, to  make  tlie  “round  trip,” 
going  into  the  valley  on  one  side  and  re- 
292 


turning  on  the  other,  as  the  trail  on  the 
Mariposa  side  takes  one  near  the  Big  Trees, 
and,  besides,  furnishes  by  far  the  best  view 
of  the  valley  ; while,  on  the  Coulterville 
trail,  we  have  the  Bower  Cave  and  many 
fine  views  of  the  distant  Sierra.  It  is  for 
the  traveller  to  decide  whether  he  prefer 
obtaining  these  general  views  of  the  val- 
ley after  he  has  already  been  there,  or  on 
his  way  into  it.  To  have  the  whole  gran- 
deur of  the  Yosemite  revealed  to  him  at 
once,  he  should  accompany  us  on  our 
present  trip,  entering  the  valley  on  the 
Mariposa  side ; if,  on  the  other  hand,  he 
prefer  to  see  the  various  points  of 
beauty  in  succession,  and,  as  he  leaves 
the  valley,  to  take  in  the  grand  general 
views,  he  should  enter  by  the  Coulter- 


Snelling.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Mariposa  Big  Trees. 


ville  route  (of  which  wc  shall  speak  pres- 
ently), and  depart  by  the  Mariposa  side. 

Leaving  San  Francisco  we  take  the 
cars  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railway  to 
Lathrop  (81  miles),  where  we  connect 
with  those  of  the  Stockton  Visalia  Rail- 
%my  for  Modesta  (in  the  San  Joaquin  Val- 
ley), 20  miles  distant.  The  latter  place 
is  reached  in  three  or  four  hours  from 
either  San  Francisco  or  Sacramento. 
Early  in  the  morning  Fisher  & Co.’s 
stages  leave  Modesta  for  Mariposa,  69 
miles  distant,  passing  through  the  various 
villages  of  the  old  Fremont  estate,  Snell- 
ing, Hornitos,  Bear  Valley,  and  Princeton. 

Sitelling’  (134r  miles  from  San  Fran- 
cisco) is  on  the  Merced  River  (River  of 
Mercy),  which  is  crossed  on  a rope-ferry. 
We  stop  at  this  place  for  breakfast. 

(146  miles),  a curious  old 
mining-town,  connects  with  stages  for 
Visalia.  We  see  about  here  on  every 
side  the  remains  of  old  adobe  huts,  and 
in  every  ravine,  long-deserted  placer- 
mines.  A few  hours’  ride  brings  us  to 

'Tlie  ^reat  Mariposa  Tract 
granted  to  Fremont  in  1848.  The  grant 
is  44,386  acres,  70  square  miles  of  the 
finest  mineral  la'nds  in  the  State,  gold, 
silver,  copper,  iron,  and  coal,  being  here 
in  abundance.  A fine  quartz-mill,  of 
twenty-five  stamps,  is  in  operation  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  valley.  The  quartz- 
rock  is  brought  from  the  mountains  in 
cars,  is  placed  beneath  the  crushers  or 
stamps,  and  is  soon  reduced  to  dust. 
The  water  in  wooden  sluices  washes  this 
dust  away  into  long  wooden  boxes, 
through  which  it  must  pass  to  escape. 
On  the  bottom  of  the  sluices  and  boxes 
are  little  nests  of  quicksilver,  which  seizes 
every  particle  of  gold,  like  a loadstone, 
which  passes  near  it,  while  the  mud  and 
crushed  quartz  are  washed  away  by  the 
water.  The  quicksilver  is  then  heavy 
with  the  particles  of  gold,  and,  taken 
from  the  sluices  or  boxes,  the  amalgam 
is  put  in  the  crucible  and  the  fine  metal 
formed  into  bars. 

Mariposa;  (170  miles),  the  capital 
of  the  county  of  the  samh  name,  is  the 
most  southerly  of  all  the  mining-towns 
of  importance  in  the  State.  It  is  the 
principal  centre  of  the  great  mining-op- 
erations of  the  Mariposa  estate.  Popu- 
lation about  1,200. 


Toiling  up  hill  after  hill,  running 
around  the  side  of  vast  mountains  with 
a road-bed  only  a few  inches  wider  than 
the  axles  of  the  wagon,  one  mishap  or 
the  slightest  break  would  roll  us  down 
thousands  of  feet  into  the  chasm  below. 
We  climb  hill  after  hill,  until,  after  about 
five  hours’  riding,  we  turn  the  summit  of 
the  mountains,  and  commence  the  de- 
scent; the  driver  uncoils  his  whip  and 
lets  it  fly  like  an  admiral’s  pennant — 
away  the  horses  go  on  a full,  swinging 
trot  down  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
the  hub  of  one  wheel  just  shaving  the 
rocks  of  one  side,  while  the  tire  of  the 
other  wheel  is  only  an  inch  or  two  from 
the  almost  perpendicular  sides  of  the 
mountain.  Early  in  the  evening  we  ar- 
rive at 

Wliite  stind  Matcla’s”  (182 
miles),  a beautiful  spot  among  the  foot- 
hills, where  we  shall  find  excellent  ac- 
commodations for  the  night.  The  next 
day  a four-hours’  ride  will  bring  us  to 

Clark’s  Itaacli  (194  miles),  on 
the  South  Fork  of  the  Merced  River,  and 
the  rest  of  the  day  will  be  best  spent  in 
a visit  to  the  Mariposa  Big  Trees,  about 
five  miles  from  Clark’s ; while  the  third 
day  will  find  us  on  horseback  to  the  val- 
ley itself. 

Mariposa  Mig*  Trees. — This 
grove  is  generally  regarded  as  more  at- 
tractive than  the  Calaveras  Grove,  the 
trees  here  being  greater  in  diameter  and 
much  more  numerous.  There  are  427 
big  trees  in  the  Mariposa  Grove,  vary- 
ing in  size  from  20  to  34  feet  in  diameter, 
and  from  275  to  325  feet  in  height. 
They  are  of  redwood,  tall,  and  perfectly 
straight,  and  belong  to  the  Sequoia  gi- 
gantea  species,  first  discovered  in  1852. 
The  leaf  is  very  much  like  the  Arbor 
vitce.  The  bark  is  soft  and  very  spongy, 
and  of  a light-brown  color;  on  all  the 
largest  trees  it  measures  from  twenty  to 
thirty-two  inches  in  thickness. 

“ These  trees  are,”  says  Mr.  Galen 
Clark,  the  guardian  of  the  grove,  “ over 
two  thousand  three  hundred  years  of 
age.”  The  largest  in  the  grove  is  “ The 
Grizzly  Giant ; ” it  is  107  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  in  the  thickest  place  34  feet 
in  diameter.  The  first  branch  is  nearly 
200  feet  from  the  ground,  and  is  eight 
feet  in  diameter. 


293 


Mariposa  Big  Trees.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Inspiration  Point. 


“ The  Faithful  Couple  ” is  probably 
28  feet  in  diameter;  it  reaches  70  feet 
out  of  the  ground  and  forms  into  two 
trees  on  one  stem;  the  faithful  couple 
of  trees  having  in  reality  but  one  life, 
and  being  but  one.  The  remains  of  a 
prostrate  tree,  now  nearly  consumed  by 
fire,  indicate  that  it  must  have  reached 
a diameter  of  about  40,  and  a height  of 
400  feet.  The  trunk  is  hollow,  and  will 
admit  of  the  passage  of  three  horsemen 
riding  abreast.  The  only  tree  which  ap- 
proaches the  Sequoia  in  size  and  gran- 
deur is  the  Eucalyptus  of  Australia,  which 
is  80  to  90  feet  in  circumference. 

Returning  to  Clark’s  Ranch  for  dinner, 
we  start  immediately  afterward  on  horse- 
or  mule-back,  for  the  Yosemite  Valley, 
and,  before  dark,  reach  the  Mountain- 
view  House — a log  cabin.  Resting  here 
for  the  night,  at  daybreak  we  set  out  for 
Sentinel  Dome^  one  of  the  highest  walls 
of  the  Yosemite,  For  three  or  four  hours 
we  toil  up  the  mountain-side  amid  rocks, 
running-streams,  brooks,  trees  of  a cen- 
tury’s growth — pine,  cedar,  and  oak. 
Suddenly  through  an  opening  in  the  trees 
we  behold  the  bald  head  of  the  Sentinel. 
Tying  our  horses  to  a tree,  we  climb  to 
the  very  tip-top  of  the  dome  and  stand 
upon  its  bare  and  barren  summit,  about 
4,000  feet  above  the  valley  at  our  feet. 
The  view  is  beyond  description,  while 
thoughts  fill  the  heart  and  crowd  the 
soul  with  unutterable  emotion  at  the 
grandeur  of  the  scene ; it  cannot  be 
traced  in  words.  Away  to  our  right  and 
east,  clad  in  the  finest  of  snow,  are  the 
peaks  of  the  Lyell  Group,,  shining  like 
silver  mountains  in  the  morning  sun. 
Nearer  to  us,  and  still  at  our  right,  peer- 
ing up  into  the  bright  blue  of  heaven,  is 
the  bare,  barren,  desolate,  untrodden 
peak  of  the  South  Dome,,  about  6,000 
feet  in  height.  To  our  left  rise  in  state- 
ly majesty  the  tunnel  peaks  of  the  Ca- 
thedral Rock,,  and  nearer,  the  Cathedral 
spires,  while  opposite  stands  old  El  Capi- 
tan,  great  chieftain  of  the  valley,  3,100 
feet  high.  Directly  opposite,  shaking  the 
earth  with  its  tumble,  and  making  the 
air  vibrate  with  its  roar,  in  all  its  un- 
paralleled beauty,  and  taking  its  un- 
equalled leaps  of  2,634  feet  into  the  aw- 
ful chasm,  is  one  of  the  greatest  of  Na- 
ture’s water-works,  the  Yosemite  Falh, 
294 


To  the  northeast  are  ilaQ  North  Dome,  The 
Archers,  Mount  Broderick,  and  Washiny- 
ion  Column,  bare,  rugged,  and  almost 
perpendicular,  varying  from  3,000  to 
5,000  feet  high.  In  the  valley  and  v/ind- 
ing  through  it  like  a ribbon  of  polished 
silver,  about  4,000  feet  below  us,  is  the 
clear,  beautiful  Merced  River,  now  hid 
by  rocks,  now  white  with  leaping  over 
its  stony  bed,  now  shining  in  the  sun, 
now  hid  by  trees,  again  appearing  far  be- 
low its  hiding-place,  meandering  through 
a field  of  living  emerald,  and  then  losing 
itself  in  the  rocky  gorge  to  appear  away 
at  the  extremity  of  the  valley. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  come  to  the 
Mountain-view  House  for  dinner.  To 
reach  the  valley  we  must  travel  12  miles. 
The  ride  is  a rough  one.  At  times  we 
are  climbing  the  edge  of  a mountain,  and 
are  so  close  to  its  side  that  to  see  down 
for  2,000  feet  in  a straight  line  is  no 
uncommon  thing.  By-and-by  we  are 
buried  in  the  narrow  valley  between  two 
hills.  Crossing  a morass,  with  the  mud 
up  to  the  stomach  of  the  horse,  is  not 
an  unusual  occurrence.  Wading  swift- 
running brooks,  clambering  over  stones 
and  bowlders,  and  jumping  fallen  trees, 
fill  up  the  measure  of  our  ride  for 
the  first  six  miles.  All  at  once  we  are 
on  a little  green  plateau,  about  20  feet 
square,  on  the  very  verge  of  the  south- 
west wall  of  the  valley.  This  is  the 
world-renowned  Inspiration  Point,  We 
dismount,  raise  our  eyes  to  the  east,  and 
behold  in  one  glance  the  whole  Yosemite 
Valley.  One  glance  is  sufficient;  as  on 
the  plate  of  the  photographer,  that  view 
is  impressed  upon  the  photographic  plate 
of  the  heart,  never,  never  to  be  effaced— 
mountains,  rock,  perpendicular  ledge, 
towering  spires,  thousands  of  feet  high, 
snow-clad  mountains,  bald  peaks,  peering 
into  the  blue  vault  of  heaven,  barren 
domes  of  gray  granite,  water-falls,  cas- 
cades and  brooks,  green  fields  and  wind- 
ing streams.  Some  of  the  grandest  won- 
ders of  the  world  are  taken  in  at  one 
view — ^the  whole  Yosemite  seen  at  one 
glance.  We  think  we  could  spend  a life- 
time here;  but  time  is  precious,  as 
night  is  coming  on ; so  we  remount  our 
horses,  and,  turning  our  back  upon  In- 
spiration Point,  begin  descending  into 
the  valley.  For  three  hours  we  toil  in 


Tosemite  Valley.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Yosemite  Valley, 


the  descent.  To  ride  down  the  trail 
would  be  risking  life  and  limb  ; so  we 
dismount  and  almost  slide  down  the  hill. 
Hov/ever,  we  get  to  the  bottom  of  the  val- 
ley in  safety  at  last,  and  now  a few  words 
about  this  wonderful  chasm,  known  as 
Yosciraiite  Valley,  It  is  situated 
on  the  Merced  River^  in  the  southern 
portion  of  the  county  of  Mariposa,  140 
miles  a little  southeast  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, but  nearly  250  miles  from  that  city 
by  any  of  the  usually  travelled  routes. 
It  is  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  midway  between  its  eastern  and 
western  base,  and  in  the  centre  of  the 
State,  measuring  north  and  south.  It  is 
a narrow  gorge,  about  8 miles  in  length, 
from  a half  to  a mile  in  width,  and  en- 
closed in  frowning  granite  walls  rising 
with  almost  unbroken  and  perpendicular 
faces  to  the  dizzy  height  of  from  8,000 
to  6,000  feet  above  the  green  and  quiet 
vale  beneath.  From  the  brows  of  the 
precipices  in  several  places  spring  streams 
of  water,  which  in  seasons  of  rains  and 
melting  snows  form  cataracts  of  beauty 
and  magnificence  surpassing  any  thing 
known  in  mountain-scenery. 

This  valley  was  discovered  in  the 
spring  of  1851  by  a party  under  the  com- 
mand of  Major  J ames  D.  Savage,  in  pursuit 
of  a band  of  predatory  Indians,  who  made 
it  their  stronghold,  considering  it  inac- 
cessible to  the  whites.  Its  name,  “ Yo- 
semite ” (pronounced  as  if  terminating  in 
y\  was  given  to  it  in  the  belief  that  it 
was  the  Indian  term  for  grizzly  bear. 


Several  Indian  names  have  been  given  to 
prominent  rocks  and  falls  in  the  valley, 
but,  as  these  are  difficult  of  pronunciation, 
and  as  it  is  doubtful  whether  these  savages 
ever  had  names  for  such  objects,  with  *a 
few  exceptions,  they  have  been  discarded, 
and  the  more  appropriate  and  definitive 
names  of  our  own  language  adopted.  The 
chief  features  of  the  valley  are  threefold : 
First,  the  perpendicular  walls ; second, 
their  great  height,  as  compared  with  the 
width  of  the  valley ; and  third,  the  very 
small  amount  of  talus  or  dSbris  formed 
at  the  base  of  these  gigantic  mountains 
of  rock.  Many  are  the  opinions  respect- 
ing the  formation  of  the  Yosemite,  but 
the  most  general  one  is  that,  by  some  vol- 
canic action,  these  great  mountains  of 
rock,  like  the  Lyell  and  Merced  groups, 
have  been  suddenly  rent  in  twain,  from 
dome  to  base,  and  the  chasm  thus  made 
widened  by  further  volcanic  action  to  its 
present  width.  The  valley  is  almost  one 
vast  flower-garden;  plants,  shrubs,  and 
flowers  of  every  hue,  cover  the  ground 
like  a carpet ; the  eye  is  dazzled  by  the 
brilliancy  of  the  color,  and  the  air  is 
heavy  with  the  fragrance  from  a million 
blossoms.  Trees  of  five  and  six  hundred 
years’  growth  raise  their  tall  heads  heav- 
enward, yet  beside  and  in  comparison  with 
the  vast  perpendicular  clefts  of  rocks, 
they  look  like  daisies  beside  a tall  pine. 
On  every  hand  are  seen  the  beautiful  and 
many-colored  manzanita  and  madrone, 
and  trees  of  such  shape  and  variety  as 
are  never  seen  in  the  Atlantic  States. 


TABLE  OF  ALTITUDES  OF  YOSEMITE  YALLEY. 


WATEE-FALLS. 


Signific4jUion. 


Yosemite Large  Grizzly  Bear. , 


Yo-wi-ye Meandering. 

Tu-lool-we-ack 


MOUNTAINS. 


Mah-ta Jklartyr  Mountain ...  I 

Bee-wah-lam 

Er-na-ting  Law-oo-too.. Bear-skin  Mountain. 


Wah-wah-le-na. 


Loya  . 


American  Name, 

. Bridal  Veil 

.TheEibbon  Fall........ 

: Third  Fall,  600  feet.) 
.Vernal 

sictgm 
above  Valley, 

...  3,300  “ 
...  2,634  “ 

.Nevada 

.South  Gallon 

...  600 

.South  Dome 

....  6,000 

u 

.Cloud’s  Eest 

...  6,450 

u 

.North  Dome 

...  3.725 

w 

.Cap  of  Liberty 

....  4,600 

u 

.Mt.  Starr  King 

...  5.600 

.Glacier  Eock.^. 

...  3,700 

.El  Capitan 

...  3,300 

. Three"  Graces 

. Three  Brothers 

...  4,200 

u 

.Cathedral  Eock 

...  2,400 

« 

.Sentinel  Dome 

...  4.000 

u 

.Sentinel  Eock 

u 

295 


Yosemtte  Yalley.] 


Y^ESTERN  TOUR. 


[Yosemite  Yalley. 


El  Capitan.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Mirror  Lake. 


El  Capitan.  is  the  most  prominent 
attraction  to  the  eye ; and,  although  not 
80  high  by  several  thousand  feet  as  some 
of  its  giant  neighbors,  yet,  its  isolation, 
its  breadth,  its  perpendicular  sides,  its 
bold,  defiant  shape,  its  prominence  as  it 
stands  out  like  a great  rock  promontory 
into  the  valley,  make  it,  as  its  name  indi- 
cates, the  Great  Chief  of  the  Valley,  It 
is  3,300  feet  in  height.  Approaching  the 
base  of  the  mountain  and  bending  the 
head  and  stretching  the  eye  away  up 
heavenward  and  by  degrees  taking  in 
the  full  view  of  the  Chieftain,  the  be- 
holder will  stand  in  mute  astonishment. 
There  is  no  slope  to  El  Capitan ; its  mas- 
Bive  gray  granite  sides,  destitute  of  vege- 
tation, are  perpendicular. 

Looking  up  the  valley  from  the  foot 
of  the  Mariposa  trail,  El  Capitan  is  seen 
on  the  left,  and  on  the  right  the  Cathe- 
dral Rocks^  with  the  ever  beautiful 
and  swaying  Po-ho-no — Spirit  of  the 
Evil  Wind — Bridal-veil  Fall  jumping  in 
sportive  glee  a distance  of  940  feet  into 
the  valley.  The  water,  long  ere  it  reaches 
its  rocky  bed,  is  converted  into  mist,  so 
that  like  a living,  laughing,  jumping  snow- 
storm the  water  descends  into  its  rocky 
bed.  Caught  by  the  gentle  wind  in  the 
valley,  the  waters  are  wafted  hither  and 
thither,  at  times  wide-spreading  like  a 
veil,  and  again  closing  as  if  to  hide  its 
purity;  swaying  now  to  the  right  and 
now  to  the  left,  ever  changing,  ever 
beautiful,  ever  waving,  ever  running 
Bridal  Veil — it  is  the  charm  of  the  Yo- 
semitc.  At  the  east  of  Po-ho-no  are 
the  Cathedral  Rocks,  2,600  feet  in  height, 
standing  like  isolated  church-spires,  of 
solid  granite,  with  rocky  sides  gently 
sloping  from  the  base  to  the  pinnacle, 
with  no  signs  of  vegetation  on  the  rugged 
sides,  and  as  yet  no  human  foot  has  stood 
on  that  barren  eminence. 

The  Virgin's  Tears  Creek,,  directly  op- 
posite the  Bridal  Veil,  makes  a fine  fall, 
over  a thousand  feet  high,  included  in  a 
deep  recess  of  the  rocks  near  the  lower 
corner  of  El  Capitan.  This  is  a beautiful 
fall  while  it  lasts,  but  the  stream  which 
produces  it  dries  up  early  in  the  season. 

Farther  up  the  valley  and  above  El 
Capitan  is  the  triple  group  of  rocks 
known  as  The  Three  Brothers — Pom- 
pom-pa-sus — which  means,  as  Professor 


Whitney  says,  “Mountains  playing  Leap- 
frog.” From  below,  the  peculiar  shape  of 
the  three  rocks,  with  their  heads  peering 
over  each  other,  gives  the  appearance 
very  much  of  three  frogs.  The  highest 
is  about  4,000  feet  above  the  valley. 

Proceeding  up  the  valley,  we  behold, 
on  our  left,  the  Yosemite  Falls — three  in 
one — the  first  leap  is  1,600  feet,  the 
second  434  feet,  and  the  third  600  feet. 
The  water  is  shot  with  great  force  over 
the  edge  of  the  rocky  cleft,  causing  it  to 
take  a wild  plunging  leap  into  a vast  ba- 
sin of  rock.  Gathering  strength,  it 
again  leaps  forth,  and,  falling  between 
the  North  Dome  and  the  Three  Brothers, 
takes  its  final  plunge  of  600  feet  into 
the  valley.  The  rumble  and  roar  of  the 
falls  are  heard  at  all  times,  but,  in  the 
quiet  of  the  evening,  they  are  so  great 
that  it  seems  as  if  the  very  earth  were 
shaking.  Probably  no  falls  in  the  world 
can  compare  with  these  in  height  and  in 
romantic  grandeur.  Niagara  is  195  feet 
high,  yet  here  is  one  2,634  feet  in  height, 
while  the  renowned  Staubbach  of  Swit- 
zerland is  not  to  be  compared  with  it. 

Still  east  of  the  Yosemite  Falls  are  the 
Royal  Arches,,  one  vast  rocky  wall,  several 
thousand  feet  high,  with  vertical  sides  ; 
while  up  toward  the  top,  the  wall  seems 
scooped  out,  and  is  appropriately  called 
the  “Shade  to  Indian  Baby-Basket.” 

To  the  north  of  the  Arches,  rounded  in 
perfect  symmetrical  form,  looms  up  the 
North  Dome  3,725  feet.  Presenting  its 
rocky,  barren,  and  bald  head  to  the  heats 
of  summer,  and  the  driving  snow-storms 
of  winter,  without  a green  speck  on  its 
rounded  sides,  it  forms  the  northeastern 
boundary  of  the  Yosemite. 

Lying  in  perfect  quiet  and  seclusion, 
at  the  foot  of  and  between  the  North 
and  South  Dome,  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  land-locked  bodies  of  water, 
“ Mirror  LakeP  Pure,  clear,  cold,  re- 
flecting every  rock,  and  ledge,  and  dome, 
it  is  a perfect  mirror.  Looking  up,  the 
towering  battlements  of  rock  are  seen ; 
looking  down  into  the  water,  the  same 
rocks  are  reflected  in  the  lake  as  far  be- 
low us.  After  a weary  ride  on  horseback, 
and  clambering  over  hills,  fording  brooks 
and  swift-running  streams,  it  is  pleasant 
to  dismount  at  this  lake,  the  head  of  the 
vallev,  sit  quietly  upon  a great  stone, 
297 


The  Vernal  Fall.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[COULTERVILLE  RoUTE. 


near  the  water’s  edge,  and  drink  in  the 
beauty  and  grandeur  of  the  scene.  With- 
out moving  from  the  margin  of  the  lake, 
but  simply  casting  our  eyes  to  the  right, 
we  are  startled  by  the  towering,  almost 
overhanging  column  of  granite  6,000 
feet  above  us  in  an  almost  straight  line, 
and  absolutely  vertical  for  more  than 
2,300  feet  from  the  summit,  and  then 
falling  off  with  a steep  slope  of  70°  to 
the  bottom  of  the  canon.  This  is  the 
South  or  Half  Dome^  the  loftiest  and  to 
near  inspection  the  grandest  and  most 
imposing  mountain  of  rock  in  the  valley. 

Remounting  our  horses  for  the  purpose 
of  visiting  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls, 
we  ride  through  a portion  of  the  valley 
carpeted  with  flowers ; not  a step  do  our 
beasts  take  but  some  flower  of  rare 
beauty  and  fragrance  is  crushed  beneath 
their  feet.  The  Merced  River,  supplied 
by  the  many  water-falls  of  the  Yosemite 
and  the  ever-melting  snow  from  the 
mountain-tops,  flows  through  the  valley  ; 
at  times  gliding  smoothly  on  between 
banks  of  rare  shrubs  and  flowers,  and 
again  plunging  madly  over  broken  rocks 
and  stones.  To  reach  the  falls  we  are 
obliged  to  cross  the  Merced. 

Threading  our  way  over  broken  rocks 
and  the  debris  at  the  base  of  the  Senti- 
nel Dome,  we  reach  PUwy-ack  (Cataract 
of  Diamonds) — the  Vernal  Fall.  Nothing 
can  be  seen  but  a falling  cloud  of  white 
foam,  leaping  over  such  a rocky  bed, 
and  in  such  a declivity,  that  the  noise, 
rapidity,  and  bed  of  the  rapids  above 
Niagara,  are  not  to  be  compared  to 
it.  For  half  a mile  below  the  falls  no 
water  can  be  seen — nothing  but  running 
foam,  white  as  milk.  Reaching  the  bot- 
tom of  the  falls,  they  have  the  same  ap- 
pearance. At  either  side  of  the  chasm 


rise  the  vertical  rocks,  while  in  the  cen- 
tre, the  water,  lashed  into  a milky  white- 
ness, takes  the  fearful  plunge  into  the 
basin  of  gray  rock.  Beautiful  and  state- 
ly pines  cover  the  hills  and  mountains, 
and,  at  our  feet,  flowers  of  a hundred 
varieties  lend  their  beauty  and  fragrance 
to  the  scene,  and  render  our  resting- 
place,  on  the  bank  above  the  basin  of 
the  fall,  one  of  extreme  pleasure. 

Several  small  encampments  of  Digger 
Indians  are  generally  to  be  found  in  the 
valley.  They  should  be  visited.  If  not 
delighted,  the  visitor  will  certainly  be 
amused  at  the  primitive  mode  of  living 
of  those  aborigines.  We  have  already 
spoken  of  them  in  Route  XIII.  of  Cali- 
fornia. {See  page  287.) 

The  guide  will  explain  to  the  visitor 
all  the  principal  points  of  interest  of  the 
Yosemite,  vnll  tell  him  the  name  of  every 
rock  and  water-fall,  and  will  narrate 
strange  stories  of  Indian  adventure  and 
warfare  in  the  valley. 

Hotels. — There  are  three  hotels  in 
the  valley — all  well  kept.  They  are  Xy- 
dig^s^  Black's^  and  Hviching^s.  The  “ ta- 
ble ” at  each  is  well  provided,  and  the 
sleeping-accommodations  are  excellent. 

By  an  Act  of  Congress,  the  Yosemite 
Valley  and  the  Mariposa  Grove  of  Big 
Trees  were  granted  to  the  State  of  Cali- 
fornia upon  the  express  condition  that 
they  should  be  kept  as  public  lands — 
“ inalienable  for  all  time.”  California  ac- 
cepted the  grant,  and  the  lands  are  now 
under  the  care  of  State  commissioners. 

Returning  from  the  Yosemite  by  the 
Coulterville  route,  we  have  the  Bower 
Cave,  many  fine  views  of  the  distant 
Sierra,  and  can  visit  the  Calaveras  Big 
Trees.  Stockton  can  be  reached  on  the 
second  day. 


By  Bail. 

By  Stage. 

Horseback,  or 
on  Wheels. 


On  Jlorsehaclc. 


THE  COULTERVILLE  ROUTE. 

San  Francisco  to  Stockton 

'Stockton  to  Knight’s  Ferry 

Knight’s  Ferry  to  Crimea  House 

Crimea  House  to  Don  Pedro’s  Bar 

^Hon  Pedro’s  Bar  to  Coulterville 

Coulterville  to  Bower  Cave 

Bower  Cave  to  Black’s 

' lilack’s  to  Deer  Flat 

Deer  Flat  to  Hazel  Green 

Hazel  Green  to  Crane  Flat 

- Crane  Flat  to  Tamarack  Flat 

Tamarack  Flat  to  Boundary 

Boundary  Stake  to  Edge  of  Valley 

^Edgc  of  Valley  to  Lower  Hotel 

Total 


00 

3G 

12 

9 

14  —161 
12 

5 

6 

f 

0‘- 

7 -431 
209j 


298 


Bower  Cave.] 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Hardin’s  Route. 


Stages  leave  Stockton  every  day,  ex- 
cept Sunday,  for  Sonora,  via  Chinese 
Camp,  passing  through  the  following  sta- 
tions : Twelve-Mile  House  (breakfast); 
Farmington  (16  miles);  Twenty-six-Mile 
House,  Knight’s  Ferry  (37  miles,  din- 
ner) ; Crimea  House  (48  miles),  where 
passengers  take  Coulter  & Son’s  stages 
for  Coulterville,  daily.  A stage  leaves 
Coulterville  daily  for  Hazel  Green,  dis- 
tant 25  miles.  Procuring  horses  at  Coul- 
terville for  the  trip,  and  providing  our- 
selves with  blankets  and  provisions,  we 
start  for  Yosemite.  Four  days  are  need- 
ed to  make  the  trip  comfortably  and 
profitably.  The  tourist  should  be  care- 
ful to  make  an  agreement  with  his  guide 
before  starting,  and  his  bargain  for  the 
use  of  horses  should  include  their  feed 
and  stabling  until  their  return  to  Coul- 
terville. These  hints  should  be  borne 
in  mind  on  all  occasions  of  travel  in  the 
Yosemite,  except,  of  course,  when,  as  is 
the  case  in  the  Central  Pacific  Railway 
route,  the  cost  of  guides,  horses,  etc.,  is 
included  in  the  price  of  the  excursion 
ticket. 

At  Marble  Springs,  on  the  trail,  dis- 
tant 10  miles,  may  be  seen  the  singular, 
grotto-like  formation  called 

Slower  Cave. — This  picturesque 
locality  is  well  worth  visiting.  Professor 
J.  D.  Whitney,  the  State  Geologist,  thus 
describes  it : “ It  consists  of  an  immense 
crack  in  the  limestone,  open  to  the  air  at 
the  surface,  and  irregularly  widened  out 
in  a cave-like  manner  below,  by  the  ac- 
tion of  currents  of  water.  On  the  upper 
side  of  the  obliquely-descending  crevice, 
an  overhanging  ledge  of  rock  permits  the 
vertical  depth  of  the  cave  to  the  level  of 
the  water,  which  partly  fills  it,  to  be  meas- 
ured ; it  is  109  feet.  The  length  of  the 
open  crevice  is  133  feet,  and  its  width  86. 
At  various  heights  deep  cavities,  or  small 
caves,  are  worn  in  the  rock,  some  of 
which  may  be  followed  for  a considera- 
ble distance.  The  picturesque  effect  of 
the  cave  is  greatly  heightened  by  the 
growth  within  it  of  three  large  maple- 
trees,  of  which  the  branches  project  out 
at  the  top.  The  water  at  the  bottom  is 
exceedingly  pellucid,  permitting  the  rami- 


fications of  the  crevice  beneath  its  sur- 
face to  be  seen  for  a depth  of  at  least  40 
feet.  Access  can  be  had  to  the  bottom 
of  the  cave  by  a series  of  steps,  and  a 
boat  is  provided  for  the  use  of  visitors  ; 
other  conveniences  are  also  furnished, 
permitting  a cool  and  comfortable  stay 
in  this  curious  place,  which  seems  to  be 
peculiarly  adapted  for  a picnic  in  hot 
weather.” 

Passing  on  to  Beer  Flat^  23  miles  from 
Coulterville,  we  camp  for  the  night.  At 
Hazd  Green^  5^  miles  distant,  and  6,679 
feet  above  the  sea,  a fine  view  of  the  San 
Joaquin  Yalley  may  be  had.  At  Crane 
Flat^  34  miles,  the  snow-clad  Sierras  be- 
gin to  rise  in  serrated  peaks  above  the 
horizon,  and  the  trail  branches  off  to 

TTwLolwLiiasiic  Orove  of 
'S’rees,  about  a mile  and  a half  dis- 
tant. These  are  similar  to  the  Big  Trees  of 
Calaveras  {see  page  290)  and  the  Big  Trees 
of  Mariposa  {see  page  293),  but  are  fewer 
in  number.  There  are  24  trees,  the  larg- 
est 36  feet  in  diameter.  One  of  these, 
consisting  of  two  joined  at  the  base,  is 
called  the  Siamese  TwinSy  and  is  114  feet 
in  circumference. 

A fine  view  of  the  Yosemite  is  had  at 
Yalley  Yiew,  but  it  is  inferior  to  that  at 
Inspiration  Point. 

THE  BIG  OAK  ELAT  OR  HARDIN'S 
ROUTE. 

This  is  identical  with  the  Coulterville 
route  as  far  as  Rattlesnake,  from  which 
point  stages  run,  via  Big  Oak  Flat  and 
Garrote,  to  Hardin’s,  which  is  20  miles 
from  Garrote  and  within  25  miles  of 
Yosemite  Yalley.  This  road  from  Gar- 
rote is  a new,  and  said  to  be  a good  one. 
The  accommodations  at  Hardin’s  are 
good.  Passengers  are  carried  on  horse- 
back from  Hardin’s  to  Yosemite  for  $5, 
or  through-tickets  may  be  had  at  the 
office  of  Sisson  & Go.,  at  Stockton,  for 
$20,  there  being  no  extra  expense  for 
guides.  Horses  are  obtained  for  short 
excursions  in  the  valley  at  $1.50  per  day. 
The  trail  passes  directly  through  the 
Tuolumne  Grove  of  Big  Trees.  {See 
page  299.) 


29^ 


Pacific  Railway.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Stations. 


THE  CALIFORmA.  PACIFIC  RAILWAY  AND  BIG  OAK  FLAT  ROUTE. 


MILES. 

By  Simmer.  San  Francisco  to  Stockton 117 

By  Bait.  Stockton  to  Copperopolis 8G 

By  Stage  or  ( Copperopolis  to  Chinese  Camp 15 

other  toheeled  •<  Chinese  Camp  to  Jacksonville 4 

Vehicle.  Jacksonville  to  Big  Oak  Flat 8 — ^180 

' Big  Oak  Flat  to  Sprague’s  Ranch 9 

Sprague’s  Ranch  to  Big  Flume 4 

Big  Flume  to  South  Fork  Tuolumne  River 3 

On  IIorsebacTc.  -{  South  Fork  to  Hardin’s  Ranch 4 

Hardin’s  Ranch  to  Tamarack  Plat 14 

Tamarack  Flat  to  Boundary  Corner,  Yosemito 2-J 

.Boundary  Comer  to  Lower  Hotel 7^—  44 J 

Total  di  stance 224 i- 


This  route  is  identical  with  Route  XV. 
of  California  as  far  as  Milton,  on  the 
Stockton  & Copperopolis  Railway.  From 
there  the  tourist  has  his  choice  to  go  to  the 
valley  direct  by  the  way  of  Chinese  Camp 
and  Carrote,  spending  the  first  night  at 
the  latter  place,  and  reaching  the  valley 
by  the  way  of  Tamarack  Flats,  with  eleven 
miles  of  horseback-riding,  early  in  the 
evening  of  the  second  day;  or,  if  he 
chooses  to  take  the  Calaveras  Big  Tree 
grove  on  the  route — as  he  should  do — 
he  will  go  direct  to  the  Big  Trees  from 
Milton,  spending  the  first  night  there,  and 
then  pass  on  by  the  way  of  Sonora  to  the 
former  route  at  Chinese  Camp,  whence 
the  journey  to  the  valley  is  the  same  as 
before — this  detour  to  the  Calaveras  grove 
adding  one  day  to  the  time.  By  this  route 
the  fare  is  $20,  or  $38  for  the  round  trip, 
if  the  traveller  goes  direct  to  the  valley, 
and  if  by  way  of  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees 
is  $25,  or  $40  for  the  round  trip.  By 
either  route,  thus,  the  journey  is  made  in 
two  days  and  a half,  or  three  days  and  a 
half  if  the  Big  Tree  Grove  on  either 
route  is  visited.  There  would  probably 
be  some  inconvenience  in  going  by  one 
route  and  returning  by  the  other,  but  this 
is  the  true  course  for  “ the  intelligent 
traveller,”  who  would  undoubtedly  be 
able  to  find  in  the  valley  return-horses 
and  guides  by  either  route.  - Two  days 
will  suffice  in  the  valley,  though  three  are 
almost  ^necessary,  and  four  better  still ; 
and  $75  will  now  cover  all  expenses  for 
the  eight  or  ten  days’  journey  and  visit 
to  this  most  wonderful  piece  of  Nature 
on  the  American  Continent. 

Copperopolis  (36  miles)  is  the 
centre  and  principal  business  place  of 
the  copper-mines  of  Calaveras  County. 
It  was  nearly  destroyed  by  fire  several 
300 


years  ago,  and  is  being  rebuilt.  On  ac- 
count of  the  low  prices  of  copper,  the 
business  of  the  place  is  not  as  active  as 
it  formerly  was. 

The  tourist  can  also  visit  the  Yosemite 
by  way  of  the  Calaveras  Big  Trees,  by 
the  California  Pacific  Railway  route, 
taking  the  steamer  “New  World”  from 
San  Francisco  to  Vallejo  (23  miles),  and 
travelling  thence  by  rail  to  Sacramento 
(60  miles  further).  From  the  latter  place 
the  route  is  identical  with  the  one  de- 
scribed immediately  following. 

SACRAMENTO,  GALT,  AND  SONORA 
ROUTE  (ROUND  TRIP). 

Via  Western  Division  of  the  Central  Pacijic 
Railway.,  arid  by  Stage. 

Stations. — Western  Division  Central 
Pacific  Railway:  Sacramento  to  Brigh- 
ton, 5 miles ; Florin,  9 ; Elk  Grove,  15 ; 
McConnell’s,  19 ; Galt  (connects  with 
stages  for  Mokelumne  Hill),  26. 

Stations.  — HamiltoiVs  Stage  Line  : 
Galt  to  lone  City,  24  miles;  Jackson, 
34 ; Amador,  37 ; Mokelumne  Hill  (con- 
nects with  stage  for  W est  Point,  Angel’s, 
Murphy’s,  and  Big  Trees),  41.  From 
Sacramento,  67. 

Mokelumne  Hill  to  Big  Trees  on  horse- 
back, 29  miles.  From  Sacramento,  96. 

Passengers  from  the  Big  Tree  Grove 
to  the  Yosemite  Valley  leave  early  in  the 
morning  by  Sisson  & Co.’s  stages  for 
Sonora,  connecting  with  Shoup  & Co.’s 
stages  at  Chinese  Camp,  and  arrive  at 
Garrote  to  stop  overnight  and  take  stage 
the  next  morning  and  arrive  at  the  val- 
ley in  the  afternoon.  The  tourist  can 
leave  Yosemite  via  either  Mariposa  or 
Coulterville,  connecting  at  Modesto  and 
Lathrop  with  trains  of  the  Central  Pa^ 
cific  Railway  cast  and  west. 


Mokelumne  Hill. 


CALIFORNIA. 


[Sierra  Mountains. 


The  route  from  Sacramento  to  Galt  is 
described  on  page  119. 

The  Big  Trees  of  Calaveras  are  de- 
scribed in  Route  XV.  of  California. 
{See  page  289.) 

MoJkeliimi&e  Mill  (41  miles)  is 
a thriving  town  of  about  1,500  inhab- 
itants, centrally  situated  in  Calaveras 
County.  Placer-mining  is  still  carried 
on  in  the  deep  banks  and  flats  in  the 
neighborhood. 

YISIT  TO  THE  HIGH  SIERRAS,  AND 

TOUR  AROUND  THE  YOSEMITE  YAL- 

LE5T. 

This  is  a tour  not  generally  made  by 
travellers,  but  it  promises  to  grow  in 
favor  as  its  attractions  become  better 
known.  The  following  description  is  for 
the  most  part  condensed  from  the  ad- 
mirable report  of  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney, 
the  State  Geologist  of  California  : * By 
adding  a few  more  days  to  the  time  re- 
quired for  a trip  to  the  Yosemite,  the 
tourist,  by  visiting  the  higher  region  of 
the  Sierra  Nevada — the  Alps  of  Cali- 
fornia, as  the  upper  portion  of  this  great 
chain  of  mountains  is  sometimes  called — 
may  make  himself  acquainted  with  a 
t}^pe  of  scenery  quite  different  from  that 
of  countries  usually  visited  by  pleasure- 
travellers,  and  may  enjoy  the  sight  of 
as  lofty  snow-covered  peaks,  and  as 
grand  panoramic  views  of  mountain  and 
valley,  as  he  can  find  in  Switzerland  it- 
self. This  region  of  the  High  Sierra  in 
California  is  hardly  yet  opened  to  visit- 
ors, so  far  as  the  providing  for  them 
public  accommodations  is  concerned,  for 
there  is  not  an  hotel,  nor  a permanently- 
inhabited  house,  anywhere  near  the  crest 
of  the  Sierra,  between  the  Silver  Moun- 
tain Road  on  the  north  and  Walker’s 
Pass  on  the  south ; but  such  is  the  mild- 
ness of  the  summer,  and  so  steady  is  the 
clearness  of  the  atmosphere  in  the  Cali- 
fornian high  mountains,  that,  with  a very 
limited  amount  of  preparation,  one  may 
make  the  tour  outside  of  the  Yosemite 
almost  without  any  discomforts,  and  cer- 
tainly without  any  danger.  In  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  the  entire  absence  of  severe 
storms  during  the  summer,  and  the  al- 

♦ The  report  has  been  elaborated  and  published 
as  “ The  Yosemite  Guide-Book.” 


most  uninterrupted  serenity  of  the  sky, 
particularly  invite  to  pleasure-travel. 

For  a journey  around,  the  Yosemite, 
or  in  any  portion  of  the  High  Sierr^, 
mules  or  horses  may  be  hired  at  Bear 
Valley,  Mariposa,  or  Coulterville ; and 
the  services  of  some  one  who  will  act  as 
a guide  can  be  obtained  usually  at  either 
of  these  places.  There  are  as  yet  no 
regular  guides  for  the  high  mountains. 
A good  pedestrian  will  often  prefer  to 
walk,  and  will  pack  his  baggage  on  a 
horse  or  a mule.  For  convenience  and 
enjoyment,  the  party  should  consist  of 
several  persons.  A good  supply  of  blank- 
ets and  of  provisions,  with  a fCw  simple 
cooking-utensils,  an  axe,  a hght  tent, 
substantial  woollen  clothes,  and  last, 
though  by  no  means  least,  a pair  of 
boots  with  the-  soles  filled  with  nails. 
The  guide  will  initiate  the  unpractised 
traveller  into  the  mysterious  art  of 
“ packing  ” a mule  or  horse,  an  accom- 
plishment only  acquired  by  actual  prac- 
tice, but  one  on  the  skilful  performance 
of  which  much  of  his  comfort  depends. 

Perhaps  the  best  trip  that  can  be  taken 
by  the  tourist  visiting  the  Yosemite  is  an 
excursion  around  the  valley,  on  the  out- 
side. This  -will  reveal  much  that  is  of 
great  interest,  occupying  but  a few  days, 
and  which  can  be  made  mostly  on  beaten 
trails  without  the  slightest  difficulty  or 
danger.  In  making  the  circuit  of  the 
Yosemite,  as  here  proposed,  the  traveller 
should  start  from  the  valley  itself,  leav- 
ing it  on  the  north  side,  and,  following 
the  Mono  trail  to  Soda  Springs^  camp 
there,  and  ascend  Mount  Dana^  then  re- 
turn by  the  trail  from  Mono  to  Maripom^ 
passing  behind  Cloud's  Rest  and  the 
Half  Dome,,  through  the  Little  Yosemite, 
across  the  lllilouette^  by  the  Sentinel 
Dome^  then  to  Westfalls^  and  back  into 
the  valley,  or  to  Clark’s  Ranch,  as  may 
be  desired,  the  whole  trip  occupying 
about  a week. 

Leaving  the  valley,  the  traveller  ascends 
to  the  plateau  by  the  Coulterville  trail ; 
but,  instead  of  keeping  on  the  trail 
back  to  that  place,  turns  sharp  to  the 
right  just  after  passing  the  Boundary 
corner,  taking  the  trail  formerly  much 
used  by  mule-trains  between  Big  Oak 
Flat  and  Aurora.  The  first  good  camp- 
ing-ground, after  leaving  the  valley  on 
301 


Mount  IIorrMANN.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Mount  Dana. 


the  Mono  trail,  is  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  Vircfin's  T ^ars  Creek ^ and  from 
here  the  highest  of  the  “ Three  Broth- 
ers ” may  be  easily  reached  in  an  hour 
or  two.  From  this  commanding  point, 
almost  4,000  feet  above  the  valley,  the 
view  is  very  fine,  the  Merced  River  and 
green  meadows  which  border  it  seeming 
to  be  directly  under  the  observer’s  feet. 
Probably  there  is  no  better  place  from 
which  to  get  a bird’s-eye  view  of  the 
Yosemite  Valley  itself.  After  crossing 
the  Virgin’s  Tears,  the  next  creek  is  that 
which  forms  the  Yosemite  Falls,  and 
which  is  about  two  miles  farther  on. 
The  trail  crosses  this  creek  a little  above 
a small  meadow.  About  two  miles  far- 
ther on  is  a high  meadow  called  Beer 
Park,  Descending  a little,  we  soon  reach 
Porcupine  Flat,  8,1 '73  feet  above  tide- 
water, and  a good  camping-ground  for 
those  who  wish  to  visit  Mount  Hoffmann. 

Mount  MoiTiimitn  is  10,872 
feet  above  the  sea-level.  It  is  a bare 
granitic  mass,  with  a gently- curving  slope 
on  the  south  side,  but  falling  off  in  a 
grand  precipice  to  the  north.  The  view 
from  the  summit  is  remarkably  fine,  and 
those  who  cannot  visit  the  higher  peaks 
of  the  main  ridge  of  the  Sierra  are  ad- 
vised to  ascend  this,  as  the  trip  from  the 
Yosemite  and  back  need  only  take  two 
or  three  days. 

ILialte  Tena-ya,  the  head  of  the 
branch  of  the  Merced  of  the  same  name, 
is  the  next  point  of  interest  on  the  trail. 
It  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water,  a mile 
long  and  half  a mile  wide.  The  trail 
passes  around  its  east  side,  and  good 
camping-ground  can  be  found  at  the  up- 
per end  in  a fine  grove  of  firs  and  pines. 
At  the  head  of  the  lake  is  a very  con- 
spicuous conical  knob  of  smooth  granite, 
about  800  feet  high,  quite  bare  of  vege- 
tation, and  beautifully  scored  and  pol- 
ished by  former  glaciers.  The  traces  of 
the  existence  of  an  immense  flow  of  ice 
down  the  valley,  now  occupied  by  Lake 
Tenaya,  begin  here  to  be  very  conspicu- 
ous. A branch  of  the  Great  Tuolumne 
Glacier  flowed  over  into  the  Tenaya  Val- 
ley through  this  pass  and  the  Tuolumne 
River.  The  whole  thickness  of  the  ice 
in  the  Tuolumne  Valley  mast  have  been 
at  least  1,000  feet.  The  summit  of  this 
pass  is  9,070  feet  above  the  sea-level. 

302 


Catliedral  Pealc.  — The  trail 
descends  into  the  valley  of  Tuolumne, 
winding  down  under  the  brow  of  the 
Cathedral  Peak  Groitp^  a grand  mass  of 
rock,  which  first  becomes  noticeable  just 
before  reaching  Lake  Tenaya.  This  is 
one  of  the  grandest  landmarks  in  the 
whole  region,  and  has  been  most  appro- 
priately named.  As  seen  from  the  west 
and  southwest,  it  presents  the  appear- 
ance of  a lofty  mass  of  rock,  cut  square- 
ly down  on  all  sides  for  more  than  a 
thousand  feet,  and  having  at  its  southern 
end  a beautiful  cluster  of  slender  pinna- 
cles, which  rise  several  hundred  feet 
above  the  main  body.  It  needs  no  ef- 
fort of  the  imagination  to  see  the  resem- 
blance of  the  whole  to  a Gothic  cathe- 
dral. Its  summit  is  about  2,500  feet 
above  the  surrounding  plateau,  and  about 
11,000  feet  above  the  sea-level. 

TTlie  Valley  of  tHe  Xao- 
luiiiae,  into  which  the  trail  now  de- 
scends, is  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
and  delightful  of  the  High  Sierra.  Sit- 
uated at  an  elevation  of  between  8,000 
and  9,000  feet  above  the  sea-level,  sur- 
rounded by  noble  ranges  and  fantasti- 
cally-shaped peaks  which  rise  from  3,000 
to  4,000  feet  higher,  and  from  which 
snow  never  entirely  disappears,  trav- 
ersed by  a clear,  rapid  river,  along  which 
meadows  of  carices  and  clumps  of  pines 
and  firs  alternate,  the  effect  of  the  whole 
is  indeed  superb.  The  main  portion  of 
the  valley  is  about  four  miles  long,  and 
from  half  to  a third  of  a mile  wide.  At 
its  upper  end  it  forks,  the  Mono  trail 
taking  the  left-hand  branch,  or  that 
which  comes  down  from  Mount  Dana, 
while  the  right-hand  fork,  or  that  which 
enters  from  the  southeast,  is  the  one 
heading  on  the  north  side  of  Mount 
Lyell,  about  eight  miles  above  the  June- 
tion  of  the  two  branches. 

on  the  north  side 
of  the  Tuolumne,  near  where  the  Mono 
trail  descends  into  the  valley,  offers  good 
camping-ground.  The  springs  furnish  a 
mild  chalybeate  water,  slightly  impreg 
nated  with  carbonic-acid  gas.  They  ai 
30  or  40  feet  above  the  river,  and  are 
8,680  feet  above  the  sea.  From  this 
point  the  view  in  all  directions  is  mag- 
nificent. 

Mount  l>ann« — Of  all  the  excui> 


Little  Yosemitk  Valley.] 


OREGON. 


^Mount  Starr  Kino. 


eions  which  can  be  made  from  Soda 
Springs,  the  one  most  to  be  recommend- 
ed is  the  ascent  of  Mount  Dana,  as  being 
entirely  without  difficulty  or  danger,  and 
as  offering  one  of  the  grandest  panoramic 
views  in  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Those  who 
wish  to  try  a more  difficult  feat  can  climb 
Mount  Lyell  or  Mount  Conners,  As  it  is 
rather  too  hard  a day’s  work  to  go  from 
Soda  Springs  to  the  summit  of  Mount 
Dana  and  back  in  a day,  it  will  be  con- 
venient to  move  camp  to  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  near  the  head  of  the  Mono 
Pass.  The  distance  from  the  springs  to 
the  summit  of  the  pass  is  about  10  miles 
in  a straight  line,  and  perhaps  12  in  fol- 
lowing the  trail. 

If  the  traveller  has  ascended  Mount 
Dana,  he  will  probably  desire  to  return 
down  the  Tuolumne  Valley,  and  continue 
his  journey  on  the  trail  leading  south  of 
Cloud’s  Rest  to  the  Little  Yosemite  and 
Sentinel  Dome,  and  so  back  to  Clark’s 
Ranch.  This  trail  strikes  directly  south 
from  the  crossing  of  the  Tuolumne,  a 
little  below  Soda  Springs,  and  passes 
close  under  Cathedral  Peak,  on  the 
west  side,  then  along  the  back  or  east 
side  of  Cloud’s  Rest,  and  down  into  the 
Little  Yosemite  Valley,  as  it  is  called. 

'S’Jie  Kilttle  lYosemite  Val- 
ley is  a flat  valley  or  mountain-meadow, 
about  four  miles  long  and  half  a mile  to 
a mile  wide.  It  is  enclosed  between 
walls  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet  high,  with 
numerous  projecting  buttresses  and  an- 
gles, topped  with  dome-shaped  masses. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  valley  it  con- 
tracts to  a V-shaped  gorge,  through 
which  the  Merced  rushes  with  rapid  de- 


scent over  huge  masses  of  debris.  The 
Little  Yosemite  is  about  6,000  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  or  2,000  feet  above 
the  Yosemite,  of  which  it  is  a kind  of 
continuation,  being  on  the  same  stream 
— namely,  the  main  Merced — and  only  a 
short  distance  above  the  Nevada  Fall^ 
from  the  summit  of  which  easy  access 
may  be  had  to  it,  whenever  the  bridge 
across  the  river  between  the  Vernal  and 
Nevada  Falls  shall  be  rebuilt.  On  the 
south  side,  about  midway  up  the  val- 
ley, a cascade  comes  sliding  down  in  a 
clear  sheet  over  a rounded  mass  of  gran- 
ite. It  is  said  to  be  1,200  feet  in  height. 
The  concentric  structure  of  the  granite 
is  beautifully  marked  in  the  Little  Yose- 
mite. 

Itlount  Starr  — The 

trail,  leaving  the  Little  Yosemite,  crosses 
the  divide  between  the  Merced  and  the 
Illouette,  then  the  last-named  stream, 
passing  to  the  west  of  Mount  Starr  King, 
a remarkable  conical  knob  of  granite,  of 
which  there  is  quite  a group  in  this  vi- 
cinity. Starr  King  is  the  steepest  cone 
in  the  region,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Half  Dorne^  and  is  very  smooth,  hardly 
having  a break  in  it.  The  summit  is  in- 
accessible. 

We  have  given  the  tourist  as  many 
hints  as  to  the  character  and  locality  of 
the  objects  to  be  seen  along  the  route 
around  the  Yosemite  Valley  as  our  space 
will  allow.  If  he  desires  to  know  more 
of  the  High  Sierra,  the  guide  will  con- 
duct him  to  numerous  mountains,  peaks, 
passes,  and  valleys,  each  one  of  which 
has  its  own  peculiar  beauties  and  attrac- 
tions. {See  Appendix.) 


OREGON. 


Oregon  was  organized  as  a Territory 
August  16,  1848,  and  was  admitted  into 
the  Union  as  a State,  February  16,  1859. 
It  lies  upon  the  Pacific,  north  of  Califor- 
nia, and  contains  an  area  of 95,274  square 
miles.  The  first  visit  of  the  white  race  to 
Oregon  was  in  1775,  when  a Spanish  voy- 
ageur  entered  the  Juan  del  Fuca  Straits. 
Three  years  afterward  (1778),  the  cele- 
brated navigator,  Captain  Cook,  sailed 
along  its  shores.  In  1791  the  waters  of 


the  Columbia  River  were  discovered  by 
Captain  Gray,  of  Boston.  An  expedition, 
or  exploring-party,  was  sent  out  in  the 
year  1804  by  the  United  States,  com- 
manded by  Lewis  and  Clark,  who  wintered 
in  1805-’6  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
From  that  period  the  coast  has  been  the 
resort  of  both  English  and  American  fur- 
traders.  By  the  treaty  concluded  with 
Great  Britain  in  1846,  this  great  territory, 
which  had  up  to  that  time  been  mintly 
303 


Climate,  Minerals,  Etc.]  WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Willamette  Riteu 


occupied  by  English  and  American  ad- 
venturers, was  divided— the  one  taking 
the  portion  above  the  parallel  of  49°  north 
k%titude,  and  the  other  all  the  country 
south  of  that  line. 

Emigration  to  Oregon  was  earnestly 
commenced  in  1839,  the  first  settlers 
crossing  through  the  South  Pass  into 
Willamette  Yalley.  Eor  some  years  the 
settlement  of  the  country  was  retarded 
by  the  more  brilliant  attractions  of  Cali- 
fornia, though  the  ultimate  result  of  this 
neighborship  will  be  to  stimulate  devel- 
opment. Washington  Territory,  on  the 
north,  was  a part  of  Oregon  until  the 
year  1853,  when  it  became  a distinct 
government. 

The  coast  of  Oregon,  viewed  from  the 
sea,  is,  like  that  of  California,  stern  and 
rock-bound,  except  that,  while  in  the  lat- 
ter region  the  nearer  mountains  follow  the 
line  of  the  shore,  in  Oregon  they  approach 
the  ocean  at  a wide  angle.  The  lower 
or  Pacific  country  occupies  an  area  of 
from  75  to  120  miles  wide,  in  which  lie 
the  great  valleys  of  Willamette,  Umpqua, 
and  Rogue  Rivers.  Though  the  valley- 
lands  of  the  Willamette  and  the  adjacent 
regions  are  extremely  fertile,  yet  the 
greater  portion  of  Oregon  is  not  well 
adapted  for  tillage.  Nature  here  assumes 
its  sublimest  forms,  and  the  scenery  is 
among  the  grandest  to  be  found  on  the 
entire  continent.  Heavy  rains  usually 
prevail  in  December,  January,  and  Peb- 
ruary,  at  which  season  the  roads  are  well- 
nigh  impassable. 

T/ie  climate^  as  on  all  the  Pacific  coast, 
is  milder  than  in  corresponding  latitudes 
near  the  Atlantic.  The  winters  are  com- 
paratively brief,  and  the  snows,  when 
snow  falls  at  all,  are  very  light. 

Oregon  is  prolific  in  grain,  grass,  fruit, 
and  timber. 

Minerals. — Gold  is  found  in  various 
parts  of  Southern  Oregon,  and  silver,  lead, 
and  copper,  in  the  Cascade  Mountains. 
Coal  is  abundant  at  Coose  Bay  and  other 
points.  Iron  is  to  be  had  in  abundance 
within  a few  miles  of  Portland. 

Oregon,  like  California,  is  famous  for 
its  wonderful  forest-growth.  The  Lam- 
bert pine,  a species  of  fir,  sometimes 
reaches,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  country, 
the  magnificent  height  of  300  feet. 

Popidation.,  etc. — The  population  of  the 
304 


State  in  1860  was  53,465  ; in  1870  it  was 
90,922.  The  total  valuation  of  real  es- 
tate and  personal  property  is  given  by 
the  census  of  1870  as  $31,798,510,  against 
$19,024,819  in  1860.  In  January,  1871, 
there  were  159  miles  of  railroad  in 
Oregon. 

RIVERS  AND  MOUNTAINS. 

The  Coliiml>ia;  River  is  the 

greatest  on  the  Pacific  slope  of  the  conti- 
nent. It  rises  in  a small  lake  among  the 
western  acclivities  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  flows  in  a devious  course  1,200 
miles  to  the  Pacific,  forming  a great  por- 
tion of  the  dividing  line  between  Oregon 
and  Washington  Territory  on  the  north. 
Its  first  meanderings  are  northward  along 
the  base  of  its  great  hill-ranges,  and  after- 
ward its  course  is  due  west  to  the  sea, 
though  very  capriciously.  It  is  a rapid 
river,  pushing  its  way  through  mighty 
mountain-passes,  and  in  many  a cataract 
of  marvellous  beauty.  In  its  course 
through  the  Cascade  Range  it  falls  into 
a series  of  charming  rapids,  which  may 
be  numbered  among  the  chief  natural  at- 
tractions of  the  country.  The  tide  sets 
up  to  this  point,  140  miles.  For  30  or 
40  miles  from  its  mouth  the  Columbia 
spreads  out  into  a chain  of  bay-like  ex- 
pansions from  four  to  seven  miles  or 
more  in  width.  Its  average  width  is  less 
than  a mile.  The  shores  are  lined  with 
grand  mountain-heights,  making  the  land- 
scape everywhere  extremely  interesting 
and  impressive.  Vessels  of  200  or  300 
tons’  burden  may  ascend  to  the  foot  of 
the  Cascades,  of  which  we  shall  speak 
further  presently.  Above  this  point  the 
river  is  navigable  for  small  vessels  only, 
and  but  at  intervals  in  its  course.  {See 
also  page  288.) 

T3ie  Willamette  River  flows 
from  the  foot  of  the  Cascade  Range,  200 
miles,  first  northwest,  and  then  north,  to 
the  Columbia,  eight  miles  below  Fort  Van- 
couver. Its  way  is  through  the  beautiful 
valley-lands  which  bear  its  name,  and 
upon  its  banks  are  Oregon  City,  Port- 
land, Corvallis,  Eugene  City,  and  other 
thriving  places.  Ocean-steamers  ascend 
15  miles  to  Portland.  Ten  miles  be- 
yond this  point,  a series  of  fine  falls 
occurs  in  the  passage  of  the  river,  above 
which  the  waters  are  again  navigable. 


Willamette  Talley.] 


OREGON. 


[Routes,  etc. 


perhaps  60  miles,  for  small  steamboats. 
The  Falls  of  the  Willamette  is  a place 
famous  for  its  excellent  salmon- fishing. 
Among  the  tributaries  of  the  Willamette 
are  the  Tualatin^  Yamhill^  La  Creole^ 
Luckamute^  Long  Tom^  and  Mary  Riv- 
ers^ coming  from  the  base  of  the  Calla- 
poosa  and  Coast  Range  Mountains,  and 
the  McKenzie,  Santiam,  Pudding,  and 
Clackamus,  from  the  Cascade  Range. 

'Tlae  IJiBipciiia;  sand.  IHogiae 
ISivers,  in  Southern  Oregon,  are 
large,  beautiful  streams.  The  former 
is  only  navigable  for  about  60  miles 
from  the  ocean  to  Rosebwig. 

XSie  Valley  of  tlie  Willa- 
mette is  a most  fertile  region,  and 
very  attractive  in  its  natural  curiosities. 
It  is  50  miles  by  100  in  extent,  and  sup- 
ports by ’its  agricultural  products  nearly 
one-half  of  the  entire  population  of  the 
State.  Many  remarkable  instances  are 
to  be  found  here  of  those  eccentric  moun- 
tain formations  known  as  Beetlers — huge, 
conical,  insulated  hills.  Near  the  mouth 
of  the  Coupe  River,  there  are  two  of  these 
heights,  which  tower  up  1,000  feet,  but 
half  a mile  removed  from  each  other  at 
their  base.  They  are  called  Pisgah  and 
Sinai,  They  stand  in  the  midst  of  a plain 
of  many  miles  in  extent.  At  a point  near 
the  Rickreal  River,  in  the  Willamette  Val- 
ley, no  less  than  seven  snow-capped  peaks 
of  the  Cascade  Range  may  be  seen. 

'Tlie  Cascade  Kaii^e  includes 
some  of  the  loftiest  mountain-peaks  in  the 
United  States,  among  which  are  Mount 
Hood,  Mount  Jefferson,  and  Mount  Pitt. 
The  first  of  this  grand  trio  has  a volcanic 
crest  14,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  following  altitudes  were  given  by  Pro- 
fessor Wood,  in  his  survey  and  explora- 
tion a few  years  since  : “ At  the  summit 
of  the  Cascade  Range,  and  foot  of  Mount 
Hood  proper,  4,400  feet ; at  the  limit  of 
forest-trees,  about  9,000  feet ; at  the  high- 
est limit  of  vegetation,  11,000  feet ; at  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  17,000  feet.”  Be- 
tween the  Blue  Mountains  and  the  Cas- 
cade Range  lie  a number  of  small  lakes. 

The  view  from  the  summit  of  Mount 
Hood  is  thus  described  by  a traveller: 
“From  south  to  north  its  whole  line  is  at 
once  under  the  eye  from  Diamond  Peak 
to  Rainier,  a distance  of  not  less  than  400 
miles.  Within  that  distance  are  Mounts 


St.  Helen’s,  Baker,  Jefferson,  and  the 
Three  Sisters,  making,  with  Mount  Hood, 
eight  snowy  mountains.  Eastward  the 
Blue  Mountains  are  in  distinct  view  for  at 
least  600  miles  in  length,  and  lying  be- 
tween us  and  them  are  the  broad  plains 
of  the  Des  Chutes,  John  Day,  and  Dma- 
tilla  Rivers,  150  miles  in  width.  On  the 
west,  the  piny  crests  of  the  Cascades  cut 
clear  against  the  sky,  with  the  Willamette 
Valley  sleeping  in  quiet  beauty  at  their 
feet.  The  broad  belt  of  the  Columbia 
wunds  gracefully  through  the  evergreen 
valley  toward  the  ocean.  Within  these 
wide  limits  is  every  variety  of  mountain 
and  valle}^,  lake  and  prairie,  bold,  beetling 
precipices,  and  graceful,  rounded  summits, 
blending  and  melting  away  into  each  other, 
forming  a picture  of  indescribable  magnifi- 
cence. On  its  northern  side.  Mount  Hood 
is  nearly  vertical  for  7,000  feet ; there  the 
snows  of  winter  accumulate  till  they  reach 
the  very  summit,  but,  when  the  summer 
thaw  commences,  all  this  vast  body  of 
snow  becomes  disintegrated  at  once,  and, 
in  a sweeping  avalanche,  carrying  all  be- 
fore it,  buries  itself  in  the  deep  furrows  at 
its  base,  and  leaves  the  precipice  bare.” 

ROUTES,  ETO. 

Portland,  the  commercial  city  of  the 
State,  has  been  described  in  Route  XIV. 
of  Califobnia.  {See  page  288.)  It  will 
be  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Califor- 
nia efi  Oregon  Railway,  At  present  it  is 
reached  by  steamer  from  San  Francisco, 
and  by  rail  and  stage  from  Sacramento 
{see  Route  XII.  of  California),  distant 
642  miles.  Numerous  river-steamers  ply 
between  Portland  and  the  various  towns 
on  the  Willamette  and  Columbia  Rivers. 
A daily  line  of  steamers  leaves  Portland 
for  the  Lower  Cascades  of  the  Columbia 
(65  miles),  passing  Cape  Horn  and  Castle 
Rock ; thence  by  rail  five  miles  to  the 
Upper  Cascades,  whence  the  traveller  can 
again  take  boat  on  the  river  for  the  Dalles. 
Portland  is  one  of  the  Pacific  termini  of 
the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  which  will 
make  it  one  of  the  great  cities  of  the  con- 
tinent. 

The  Cali  f oritia  & Oregon  Railroad 
great  attractions  to  tourists  and  sports- 
men. It  is  now  finished  to  Roseburg,  200 
miles,  and  is  being  rapidly  built  through 
Southern  Oregon  to  the  boundary-line, 
305 


Dalles  City.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Distances. 


where  it  will  coimect  with  the  line  to  San 
Francisco  and  the  Pacific  Railway.  It 
will  be  completed  in  the  fall  of  1874. 
TJiis  road  starts  from  Portland  and  runs 
up  the  east  side  of  the  Willamette  River. 
The  beautiful  towns  of  Salem  (the  capital 
of  the  State)  and  Albany  are  on  this  line. 
It  will  pass  through  the  fertile  valleys  of 
the  Umpqua  and  Rogue  Rivers,  scale  the 
magnificent  Cascade  range  of  mountains, 
and  skirt  the  beautiful  “lake  country.’’ 
City 9 or  “ The  Dalles,”  is 
a thriving  town  of  about  2,000  inhabi- 
tants, on  the  south  bank  of  the  Columbia, 
a few  miles  east  of  the  base  of  the  Cascade 
Mountains,  and  about  120  miles  east  of 
Portland.  There  is  a large  woollen-mill  at 
this  place,  capable  of  using  150,000  lbs. 
of  wool  annually.  Dalles  City  connects  by 
rail  with  Celilo,  on  the  Columbia,  with 
Portland  by  steamer,  and  is  a point  of  di- 
vergence for  travel  east  of  the  Cascades, 
northerly  into  Washington  Territory,  east- 
erly up  the  Columbia,  southeasterly  to  the 
Jolm  Day  mining-region.  The  river  at  the 
Dalles  is  confined  between  basaltic  cliffs  in 
a channel  less  than  100  yards  wide.  A fine 
view  of  Mount  Hood  is  obtained  here. 

From  Celilo  eastward  the  tourist  may 
profitably  pursue  his  trip  to  Umatilla  (97 
miles),  Wallula  (110  miles),  Walla-Walla 
(140  miles)  (see  Washington  Territory), 
and  Lewiston,  Idaho  (223  miles). 

lUmsLtlH&,  may  be  fairly  regarded 
as  the  head  of  certain  navigation  on  the 
Columbia.  Hence,  and  from  Wallula, 
daily  stages  run  over  the  Blue  Moun- 
tains to  Boise  and  towns  in  Idaho.  {See 
Summary  of  Distances,  etc.) 

St.  Helen’s  stands  upon  a rocky 
bluff  on  the  west  side  of  the  Columbia,  30 
miles  from  Portland.  The  river  is  here 
a mile  wide,  and  forms  a fine  harbor. 

Oregon  City  is  described  in  Route 
XII.  of  California.  (See  page  286.) 

Ssulem,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is 
60  miles  above  Oregon  City.  It  connects 
by  stage  and  river-boats  for  Portland. 
(For  description,  see  Route  XII.  of  Cali- 
fornia, page  286.) 

Astorin,  100  miles  from  Portland, 
connects  with  that  city  by  steamer.  {See 
Route  XIV.  of  California,  page  288.) 

CnHon  City  is  situated  at  the  head- 
waters of  John  Day  River,  in  the  midst  of 
a profitable  placer-mining  region. 

306 


DISTANCES,  ETC. 


Portland  to  Lower  Cascades 65 

Across  Portage 5 

Upper  Cascades  to  Dalles 45 

1]5 

Boats  run  daily : 

Dalles  to  Celilo 15 

Celilo  to  Wallula 11  u 

Wallula  to  Walla- Walla 30 

"155 

Boats  run  three  times  a week : 

Dalles  to  Umatilla Ill 

Walla- Walla  to  Lewiston 83 

Stages  run  three  times  a week: 

Lewiston  to  Florence 120 

Lewiston  to  Elk  City 142 

Lewiston  to  Oro  Fino 80 

CANON  CITY  TO  DALLES. 

Wallhagan’s  Banch 17 

South  Fork 17 

Bock  Creek 17 

Mountain  House 9 

Alkali  Flat 14 

Muddy 22 

Antelope  Valley 16 

Buck  Hollow 15 

Haystack 12 

Cold  Spring 10 

Dixon’s  Bridge 15 

Dalles 13 


Stages  run  three  times  a week: 

WALLA-WALLA  TO  PLACERVILLE. 


{Boise  Mines.) 

Walla-Walla  to  Walla-Walla  River 13 

Linkton’s  Mill 9 

Mountain  House 12 

Phillips IS 

Willow  Creek 11 

Hendershott’s 16 

Uniontown 6 

Pyles C 

Quigley’s 12 

Bouldock’s 13 

Illinois 16 

Express  Ranch 12 

Stout  and  Moody’s 14 

Miller’s 10 

Olds’s  Ferry.. 0 

Weiser  River 15 

Galena 20 

Payette  Ranch 15 

Burners’s 15 

Schaeffer’s 12 

Placerville __16 

262 

Placerville  to  Centreville 4^ 

Placerville  to  Idaho  City 13 

Placerville  to  Pioneer  City 9 

Idaho  City  to  Boise  City 30 

Bois6  City  to  Owyhee 55 

Bois6  City  to  South  Bois6 8f- 

Idaho  City  (by  trail)  to  South  Bois6 62 


Stages  run  regularly  to  all  the  above-named 
places,  except  South  Bois6. 


Wash’ton  Territory.]  WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


[Seattlil 


WASHINGTON  TERRITORY. 


Washington  Territory,  formerly  a part 
of  Oregon,  occupies  the  extreme  northwest 
corner  of  the  domain  of  the  United  States. 
Its  greatest  extent  is  about  600  miles  from 
east  to  west,  and  200  from  north  to  south, 
comprising  about  70,000  square  miles. 
On  the  north,  it  is  separated  from  British 
America  by  the  Straits  of  Juan  del  Fuca. 
The  Rocky  Mountains  lie  on  its  eastern 
boundary,  Oregon  on  the  south,  and  the 
Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west.  The  general 
appearance  of  this  region  is  very  similar 
to  that  of  Oregon — traversed,  as  both 
countries  are,  by  the  same  mountain- 
ranges  and  rivers.  The  Columbia  trav- 
erses the  Territory,  dividing  it  into  un- 
equal parts,  and  separating  it  from  Ore- 
gon on  the  south.  Mount  Olympus^  the 
chief  peak  here  of  the  Coast  Range,  is 
8,197  feet  high,  covered,  like  most  of  the 
summits  of  the  region,  with  perpetual 
snows.  Mount  St,  Helen's^  one  of  the 
spurs  of  the  Cascade  Range,  has  an  ele- 
vation of  12,000  feet ; and  Mount  Rai- 
nier^ on  the  same  chain,  rises  13,000  feet. 
Mounts  Adams  and  Baker  are  other  grand 
peaks  of  the  Cascade  Range.  This  range, 
which  crosses  the  Territory  from  north 
to  south  100  miles  from  the  coast,  is  a 
continuation  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  It  is 
from  40  to  60  miles  wide  at  its  base,  and 
has  an  average  elevation  of  6,000  feet. 
Spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  scat- 
tered through  the  eastern  portion  of 
Washington  Territory.  The  chief  source 
of  wealth  to  the  people  of  the  Territory 
at  present  is  in  the  utilization  of  their 
immense  forests  of  fir,  and  spruce,  and 
cedar,  though  by-and-by,  as  the  land  be- 
comes settled  by  the  extension  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railway  across  the  Ter- 
ritory, it  will  be  made  productive  by  agri- 
cultural industry,  especially  in  the  cul- 
ture of  grass  and  raising  of  live-stock. 

Mammoth  irees^  like  those  of  California 
and  Oregon,  are  found  also  in  this  region. 
The  wilds  of  Washington  Territory  abound 
in  elk,  deer,  and  other  game.  Wild-fowl, 
also,  of  many  varieties,  are  plentiful ; and 
in  no  part  of  the  world  are  there  finer  fish 


than  may  be  caught  here.  The  rivers  of 
Washington  are  rapid  mountain-streams, 
replete  with  picturesque  beauty  in  bold, 
rocky  cliffs  and  precipices,  and  in  charm- 
ing cascades. 

The  population  of  Washington  Terri- 
tory in  1860  was  11,594  ; in  1870,  23,901. 
The  total  valuation  of  real  and  personal 
estate  is  given  by  the  census  of  1870  as 
$10,187,815,  against  $4,394,735  in  1860. 
At  present  there  are  no  completed  rail- 
roads in  the  Territory.  Settlers  are  mov- 
ing in  very  rapidly. 

EOUTES. 

The  readiest  route  to  Washington  from 
Oregon,  which  should  be  first  visited,  is 
by  steamer  down  the  Willamette  and 
Columbia  Rivers,  50  miles,  and  up  the 
Cowlitz,  two  miles,  to  Mordicello.  Thence 
stage-wagons,  twice  a week,  perform  the 
service — not  always  a very  agreeable  one 
— of  transporting  the  traveller  to  Olym- 
pia, 40  miles.  Between  Monticello  and 
Olympia  are  seen  some  of  the  grandest 
woods  on  the  continent.  “ Here,”  says  a 
traveller,  “ is  the  forest  primeval,  thick 
with  slender  pine,  fir,  hemlock,  spruce, 
cedar,  and  arbor-vit»,  the  trunks  gloved 
in  moss  of  orange-green,  the  branches 
hung  with  brown  Spanish  moss,  the 
ground  white,  yellow,  and  purple,  with 
luxuriant  flowers.” 

Olympia,  the  capital  of  the  Terri- 
tory, is  a small  town  situated  at  the  head 
of  navigation  of  Puget  Sound,  on  the  east 
side  of  Tenalquet’s  River.  It  is  reached 
by  stage  from  Monticello,  and  by  steamer 
from  Victoria,  Vancouver’s  Island.  {Sc^ 
Route  XIV.  of  California,  page  289.) 

^teilacoom,  the  capital  of  Pierce 
County,  is  near  the  head  of  Puget  Sound, 
16  miles  by  land  from  Olympia. 

Seattle  is  on  the  eastern  shore  of 
Puget  Sound,  and  is  the  site  of  the  “ Ter- 
ritorial University,”  for  which  handsome 
buildings  were  erected  by  means  of  an 
appropriation  of  $75,000  by  Congress.  It 
has  been  fixed  upon  provisionally  as  the 
307 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


Port  Townsend.] 

main  terminus  of  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad,  and  if  so,  will  become  in  time  a 
great  city. 

^ TownaseiadL,  a flourishing 

town  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name  in 
Puget  Sound,  for  which  this  town  is  the 
port  of  entry,  has  a good  harbor,  of  suffi- 
cient depth  for  ocean-steamers.  It  con- 
tains a United  States  Oustom-House  and 
a United  States  Marine  Hospital. 

Walla- Walla,  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  the  same  name,  is  situated 
on  Mill  Creek,  in  the  midst  of  a beauti- 
ful and  rich  agricultural  district.  It  is 
reached  by  stages  regularly  running  from 
Wallula. 

^^Itatcom,  a small  town  on  the 
western  shore  of  Bellingham  Bay,  is  the 
principal  shipping-port  of  Bellingham  Bay 
coal-mines. 

The  other  principal  towns  and  settle- 
ments of  the  Territory  are  Nesqually, 
New  York,  and  New  Dungeness,  on  Pu- 
get’s Sound  and  Admiralty  Inlet ; Pacific 
City,  Catalamet,  Fort  Vancouver,  Monti- 
cello,  and  Cascade  City,  on  the  Columbia 
River;  Wabassport  and  Cowlitz  Farms, 
on  the  Cowlitz  River ; and  Penn’s  Cove, 
on  Whidby’s  Island. 

The  easiest  and  most  comfortable  way 
to  see  the  different  towns  and  points  of 
interest  in  the  Territory  is  to  take  steam- 
er from  Portland  down  Puget  Sound.  ( See 
Route  XIV.  of  California,  page  288.) 
This  is  one  of  the  loveliest  sheets  of  water 
on  the  continent.  It  has  1,400  miles  of 
navigation,  and  is  bounded  by  pine-forests 
and  snow-capped  mountains.  Hundreds 
of  islands  dot  its  shining  surface,  while  its 
clear  depths  are  almost  transparent.  The 


[Victoria. 

mountain-views  from  the  sound  will  de- 
light the  tourist.  Lumber  constitutes 
the  basis  of  trade  and  business  carried 
on  at  the  different  towns  and  villages  on 
these  waters.  The  trade  in  this  article 
exceeds  a million  dollars  annually.  Every 
settlement  has  its  saw -mill,  some  of  them 
of  large  size  and  capacity.  There  is 
abundance  of  fish,  and  coal  is  found  and 
exported  in  large  quantities.  The  Indians 
on  Whidby’s  Island  and  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Seattle  (see  page  307)  will  attract 
the  traveller’s  attention.  They  belong  to 
the  Skagit  tribe. 

From  the  north  end  of  Puget  Sound 
the  traveller  can  cross  the  Straits  of  Fuca 
and  visit  the  British  possessions  upon 
Vancouver’s  Island. 

The  population  of  the  island  is  between 
8,000  and  10,000,  four-fifths  of  which  re- 
side in  the  pleasant,  prosperous  little  city 
of  Victoria.  The  climate  of  Vancouver 
is  genial  and  healthful.  Delicious  fruits 
and  the  most  fragrant  flowers  grow  in 
abundance  on  the  island. 

Victoria,  the  capital  of  the  British 
colony  of  Vancouver  Island,  is  situated 
on  the  southeast  end  of  that  island.  It 
was  originally  the  depot  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company.  It  is  well  built,  of  brick 
and  stone,  and  wears  a cheerful,  attrac- 
tive appearance.  The  Government  House 
and  the  Governor'^ s Mansion  are  worth 
visiting.  (See  Route  XIV.  of  Califor- 
nia, page  289.) 

^an  JTuaift,  the  island  about  which 
there  was  such  a long  controversy  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Great  Brit- 
ain, lies  just  off  the  coast  of  Washington 
Territory. 


ALASKA. 


Alaska  is  the  newest  accession  to  the 
territory  of  the  United  States,  and, 
though  it  is  not  likely  to  prove  very  in- 
viting to  travellers,  a brief  sketch  seems 
necessary  to  complete  the  Hand-Book. 

From  its  discovery  by  Behring,  in 
1741,  till  October  8,  1867,  Alaska  be- 
longed to  Russia,  and  was  known  as 
308 


Russian  America.  On  the  latter  date  it 
was  transferred  to  the  United  States,  in 
consideration  of  the  sum  of  $7,200,000, 
paid  in  coin,  and  now  forms  one  of  the 
Territories. 

Perhaps  no  territory  of  equal  extent  on 
the  globe  (it  embraces  450,000  square 
miles),  except  Central  Africa,  is  so  little 


Climate.] 


ALASKA. 


[Minerals. 


known ; for,  even  now,  although  we  have 
^ been  flooded  with  books  from  travellers 
claiming  to  have  explored  this  country, 
the  interior  is  yet  an  unknown  land. 
The  seaboard,  and  the  line  of  the  Yucon, 
and  some  other  rivers,  are  the  only  por- 
tions of  the  Territory  we  know  any  thing 
of.  And,  because  of  the  popular  igno- 
rance on  the  subject,  much  scope  has 
been  given  to  mere  invention ; and  while, 
on  the  one  hand,  the  country  has  been 
decried  as  the  “ fag-end  of  creation,”  on 
the  other  hand  it  has  been  overpraised. 
Imagination  has  been  made  to  supply  the 
place  of  knowledge,  and  even  poetry  has 
been  lugged  in  to  picture  the  supposed 
savage  desolation  of  the  land,  and  the 
imagined  rigor  of  the  climate.  Now,  in 
the  interior  of  Alaska,  the  climate  is 
doubtless  very  severe,  and  the  trappers 
and  gold-miners  of  the  Stachine  River 
report  that  on  the  main-land  the  snow 
reaches  a fabulous  depth,  and  does  not 
disappear  until  nearly  the  end  of  the 
summer ; but,  in  all  that  part  of  Alaska 
and  British  Columbia  which  borders  on 
the  ocean,  and  extends  from  Behring 
Straits  to  the  Straits  of  Fuca,  the  climate 
is  wonderfully  soft  and  mild  for  the  lati- 
tude— so  much  so,  indeed,  that  the  tem- 
perature in  the  winter-time  is  said  to  be 
about  that  of  Washington  City. 

The  great  drawback  to  the  climate  is 
the  rain,  which  falls  almost  incessantly 
during  nine  months  of  the  year.  The 
average  fall  of  rain  for  eighteen  years 
past  has  reached  the  astonishing  figure 
of  86  inches.  Of  course,  vegetables  and 
grains  cannot  be  grown  in  a soil  of  such 
excessive  moisture,  but  the  forests  pro- 
duce some  of  the  best  timber  on  the  con- 
tinent; the  plains  between  the  moun- 
tains, as  well  as  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains themselves,  are  covered  with  forests 
so  dark  and  dense  as  to  be  impenetrable 
except  to  wild  beasts  and  savage  hunts- 
men. On  the  lowest  ground  the  cotton- 
wood grows.  The  birch-tree  sometimes 
appears  upon  the  river-sides,  but  the  for- 
ests of  Alaska  consist  mainly  of  the  pine, 
the  cedar,  the  cypress,  the  spruce,  the 
fir,  the  larch,  and  the  hemlock.  These 
forests  begin  almost  at  the  water’s  edge, 
and  they  rise  with  regular  gradations  to 
a height  of  two  thousand  feet.  According 
to  Mr.  Seward,  the  native  grasses  pre- 


serve their  nutritive  properties,  and  the 
climate  is  so  mild  that  cattle  and  horses 
require  but  slight  provision  of  shelter 
during  the  winter.  There  is  also  reason 
to  believe  that,  beyond  the  Coast  Range 
of  mountains,  there  is  an  extension  of 
the  rich  and  habitable  valley-lands  of 
Oregon  and  Washington  Territory.  The 
animal  productions  of  the  forests  are 
abundant,  the  elk  and  ^eer  being  so  nu 
merous  as  to  be  undervalued  for  food 
or  skins  by  both  natives  and  strangers. 
The  bear,  of  many  families  — black, 
grizzly,  and  cinnamon — the  mountain- 
sheep,  the  wolf,  the  fox,  the  beaver,  the 
otter,  the  mink,  the  raccoon,  the  marten, 
the  ermine,  and  the  squirrel,  are  among 
the  land  fur-bearing  animals.  The  fur- 
bearing seals  are  found  most  numer- 
ously on  St.  Paul’s  and  St.  George’s  Isl- 
ands. 

As  to  the  mineral  wealth,  so  eloquently 
insisted  upon  by  both  Mr.  Sumner  and 
Mr.  Seward,  it  has  not  yet  revealed  itself. 
Gold  has  been  discovered  on  the  Stachine 
River,  and  the  mines  have  been  worked 
to  some  extent.  Copper  is  said  to  have 
been  discovered  on  the  Copper  River, 
and  copper  utensils  were  in  use  among 
the  natives  as  far  back  as  the  time  of 
Behring.  Silver,  iron,  and  bismuth,  are 
also  said  to  exist,  though  where,  it  is  yet 
reserved  for  explorers  to  find  out.  Of 
coal  there  is  an  abundant  supply  on 
Admiralty  Island,  on  Kootznoo,  and  at 
Cook’s  Inlet.  Its  fur-trade  is  all  that 
has  ever  made  Alaska  commercially  im- 
portant, and  the  value  of  this  has  been 
decreasing  rapidly  since  the  country 
came  under  the  sway  of  the  United 
States. 

Alaska,  as  we  have  said,  is  not  likely 
ever  to  be  much  frequented  by  travel- 
lers, yet  one  now  and  then  finds  his  way 
there,  and  the  following  description  of 
the  voyage  from  Victoria,  on  Vancouver’s 
Island,  to  Sitka,,  is  from  the  pen  of  a late 
sight-seer : 

“ Let  us  suppose  the  Highlands  of  the 
Hudson  River  (with  which  we  nearly  all 
are  familiar)  to  be  stretched  out,  as  it 
were,  for  nine  hundred  miles.  We  won’t 
widen  the  river  at  all,  but  we  will  in- 
crease the  height  of  the  hills  from  four- 
teen hundred  to  three  thousand,  seven 


809 


Sitka.] 


WESTERN  TOUR. 


[Sitka. 


thousand,  and,  in  some  cases,  ten  thou- 
sand feet.  We  will  cover  the  peaks  of 
the  mountains  with  snow,  and  the  rest 
with  dense  forests  of  timber,  except 
where  the  mountain-streams  come  tum- 
bling down  in  great  water-falls  of  fifty 
feet  or  more,  and  frequently  fall  over  a 
huge  cliff  directly  into  the  sea,  near 
which  our  vessel  passes.  As  we  go  far- 
ther north,  imagine  great  valleys  filled 
with  enormous  glaciers,  or  sheets  of  ice, 
from  one  to  ten  miles  wide,  and  extend- 
ing back  miles  into  the  interior.  These 
huge  masses  of  ice,  sometimes  twelve 
hundred  feet  thick,  are  of  a blue  Alpine 
hue,  and,  when  the  bright  sunlight  falls 
upon  them,  their  gleaming  surface,  rich 
with  prismatic  color,  presents  an  incon- 
ceivably magnificent  sight. 

‘•Now,  if  the  reader  can  gather  any 
thing  from  this  imperfect  description,  he 
has  in  his  mind’s  eye  the  scenery  of  Alas- 
ka. For  miles  and  miles  our  steamer  jour- 
neys along  through  this  wilderness,  amid 
these  mountains  ‘wooded  to  the  peak.’ 
From  base  to  snowy  region,  nothing  mars 
the  uniformity — a dense,  dark  forest  of 
pines  and  hemlock,  through  whose  wilds 
the  foot  even  of  the  savage  has  never 
wandered  ! The  eye  fairly  wearies  of  the 
endless  monotony  and  death-like  stillness 
of  these  primeval  forests,  and  seeks  for 
more  peaceful  landscapes;  but  in  vain. 
Nothing  disturbs  the  dreary  loneliness 
of  this  wonderful  forest-land,  except  the 
splash  of  the  paddles,  as  the  steamer 
speeds  softly  on  her  way,  the  shrill  note 
of  the  eagle,  as  he  circles  over  some  lofty 
cliff,  or  the  howl  of  the  wolf  amid  the  re- 
cesses of  the  forest.” 

Nitlca,  the  seat  of  government,  is 
really  the  only  point  in  Alaska  where  the 
United  States  is  able  to  exercise  more 
than  a nominal  authority.  It  has  a 
population  of  about  1,600,  of  whom 
1,000  are  Indians,  and  is,  beyond  doubt, 
the  dirtiest  and  most  squalid  collection 
of  log-houses  on  the  Pacific  slope. 
On  the  right  of  the  town,  looking  at  it 
from  the  anchorage,  stand  the  build- 
ings formerly  belonging  to  the  fur  com- 
pany, the  citadel  being  on  a rocky  emi- 
310 


nence ; farther  on,  the  houses  of  the  citi- 
zens ; finally,  the  church  and  hospital. 
On  the  left  of  the  town,  outside  of  the 
stockade,  is  the  Indian  village  of  about 
sixty  huts  ; still  farther  to  the  left,  a col- 
lection of  Indian  graves. 

The  Russian  governor’s  house,  or  the 
citadel,  now  occupied  by  the  command- 
ing officer  of  the  military  district,  is  the 
only  building  in  Sitka,  except  the  church, 
that  deserves  any  special  mention.  It  is 
perched  on  Katalan’s  Rock,  and  is  a huge 
structure  of  two  stories  in  height,  but 
very  long  and  broad,  roofed  with  sheet- 
iron,  painted  red,  and  capped  by  the  only 
light-house  in  Alaska,  which,  at  night, 
casts  a feeble  glimmer  three  or  four  miles 
seaward.  The  summit  of  the  hill  is  de- 
fended by  batteries  which  command 
every  point  in  the  harbor.  The  north- 
west end  is  approached  by  a flight  of 
wooden  steps,  and  half-way  up  sentinels 
are  kept  posted  day  and  night ; at  this 
point  is  a sort  of  military  prison,  in  front 
of  which  is  displayed  a light  battery  of 
brass  cannon,  loaded  with  canister,  and 
ready  for  any  emergency.  The  upper 
story  of  the  building  is  divided  into  one 
large  room  in  the  centre,  flanked  by 
drawing-room  and  billiard-room  at  one 
end,  and  another  large  room  at  the  other, 
all  well  kept,  painted  in  nice  style,  and 
hung  with  old  prints  of  celebrated  Eng- 
lish sea-fights.  The  lower  story  contains 
dining-room,  parlor,  study,  and  sleeping- 
apartments,  all  very  large,  and  furnished 
with  the  inevitable  Russian  stove,  or  fur- 
nace. The  entire  structure  is  built  of  huge 
logs,  squared,  joined,  and  painted.  The  In- 
dians are  never  allowed  inside  the  stock- 
ade after  nightfall,  while  a guard  is  kept 
constantly  on  the  alert  with  rifles  loaded, 
and  a field-battery  of  Parrott  guns  kept 
constantly  trained  on  the  Indian  village, 
adjoining  the  town,  and  a man-of-war 
lies  anchored  in  the  harbor,  with  her 
guns  pointed  at  the  Sitka  village. 

Since  the  American  occupation,  much 
has  been  done  toward  improving  Sitka. 
Among  other  things,  an  Anglo-Russian 
newspaper  has  been  started,  and  prom- 
ises to  be  a successful  enterprise. 


APPEITDIX 


CALIFOENIA. 


Carria.g’e-'Road.  to  Yosemi- 

te. — During  the  past  summer  (of  1873) 
a new  route  was  opened  to  the  valley, 
which  permits  stages  to  run  to  its  very 
verge  just  above  Bridal-Veil  Falls.  It 
commences  at  Hazel  Green,  the  old  ter- 
minus of  the  stage-line  by  the  Coulter- 
ville  route,  is  only  eighteen  miles  long, 
and,  by  hugging  the  sides  and  bottom 
of  the  Merced  Canon,  avoids  all  difficult 
grades — the  heaviest  being  less  than 
fifteen  feet  to  the  hundred.  The  road 
has  been  located  with  special  refer- 
ence to  placing  it  below  the  permanent 
snow-line  of  the  Sierras ; and  thus  access 
will  be  had  to  the  valley  in  winter  as 
well  as  in  summer — a matter  of  great  im- 
poitance,  for  the  reason  that  the  scenery 
is  regarded  as  grander  in  winter  than  at 
any  other  time  of  the  year.  The  whole 
distance  from  Merced,  the  nearest  station 
on  the  Visalia  division  of  the  Central 
Pacific  Railroad^  is  only  88  miles,  and  by 
making  an  early  start  the  trip  may  be 
accomplished  in  a single  day. 

This  new  route  is  a great  improvement 
in  point  of  convenience  upon  any  pre- 
vious method  of  reaching  Yosemite. 
Thousands  of  people,  especially  ladies, 
have  been  deterred  from  visiting  the 
valley  by  the  hard  ride  of  40  miles  on 
horseback ; but  as  stages  now  run  over 
a good  carriage-road  from  the  end  of 
the  railway  to  the  hotels  in  the  valley, 
the  number  of  those  who  will  flock  to 
this  most  wonderful  chasm  in  the  world 
will  doubtless  be  increased  a hundred- 
fold. 


The  road  is  available  by  both  the 
Coulterville  and  Chinese  Camp,  two  of 
the  three  main  routes  to  Yosemite ; and 
a new  grove  of  gigantic  trees  has  been 
discovered  directly  on  its  route. 

A Yew  Yosemite.  — It  is 
claimed  by  the  California  newspapers  that 
a new  and  grander  Yosemite  than  that 
heretofore  known  to  the  world  has  lately 
been  discovered.  It  was  penetrated  late  in 
the  fall  of  1872  by  Galen  Clark,  State 
Guardian  of  the  Great  Valley,  and  John 
Muir,  an  enthusiastic  and  devoted  geolo- 
gist, botanist,  and  mountain  explorer.  It 
is  situated  in  the  Tuolumne  River  Canon, 
17  miles  north  of  the  Yosemite.  The  main 
Tuolumne  River,  which  is  a much  wider 
stream  than  the  Merced,  runs  through 
the  great  Tuolumne  Canon.  This  canon 
and  its  connections  have  an  unbroken 
length  of  40  miles.  For  20  miles  of  this 
distance  the  canon  is  shut  in  by  vertical 
walls  of  granite,  some  of  which  are  from 
two  to  five  hundred  feet  higher  than  the 
very  highest  in  the  Yosemite  Valley. 
The  Tuolumne  Canon  or  Yosemite,  at  its 
widest  part,  is  only  a quarter  of  a mile 
wide,  while  the  Merced-Yosemite  Valley 
is  from  half  a mile  to  a mile  and  a quar- 
ter wide.  The  falls  in  the  latter  surpass 
those  of  the  Tuolumne  Canon  in  unbroken 
volumes  of  falling  water ; but  in  endless 
variety  of  cascades  and  water-shoots  the 
Tuolumne  Canon  is  much  the  grandest. 
There  is  one  water-leap,  1,000  feet  high,  in 
the  latter.  One  of  its  water-falls  spreads 
out  at  first  like  a great  fan  of  silvery- 
threaded  water;  but,  after  a descent  in 
311 


APPENDIX. 


this  shape  of  about  200  feet,  it  is  whirled 
over,  closed  up,  changed  in  color,  and 
shot  down  a narrow  groove  worn  in  the 
rocks  like  an  arrow  of  steam.  * There 
aivj  a greater  display  and  variety  of  water- 
hues,  tints,  motions,  and  expressions,  in 
the  Tuolumne  Canon  than  in  the  Yo- 
semite. 

ILiuke  Talioe. — An  English  trav- 
eller who  has  lately  made  the  trans-conti- 
nental tour  writes  as  follows  of  the  trip  to 
Lake  Tahoe:  “The  road  from  Truckee  to 
Lake  Tahoe  follows  the  Truckee  River  al- 
most the  entire  distance.  There  is  hardly 
a more  beautiful  drive  in  all  California.  At 
one  moment  you  are  by  the  side  of  the 
river,  dark,  deep,  and  moving  on  in  a 
silent  mass ; a turn  of  the  road,  and  the 
waters  are  torn  and  twisted  and  eddying 
and  foaming,  as  with  an  agony  of  pas- 
sion. Again  your  ear  catches  a distant 
roar,  and  after  a time  you  come  to  a spot 
where  the  hand  of  man  has  erected  a 


barrier,  over  which  the  waters  fall  in  one 
solid  plunge,  while  the  blockaded  stream  ^ 
above  rests  in  a sullen  captivity.  On 
either  side  of  the  river’s  bank  rise  the 
mountains  of  the  Sierras,  from  under 
whose  everlasting  snows  constantly 
stream  down  the  thousand  rivulets  that 
feed  the  main  river.  We  have  no  space 
to  describe  the  ever-changing,  exquisite 
scenery  of  this  road.  After  fifteen  miles 
of  enjoyment,  spite  of  the  discomfort  of 
compressed  animation,  the  stage  crosses 
a bridge,  turns  a corner,  and  Lake  Tahoe 
is  before  us.” 

A new  steamer  has  been  placed  on 
the  lake,  which  will  greatly  increase  the 
attractions  of  a trip  on  its  waters.  It  is 
100  feet  long,  and  can  accommodate  up- 
ward of  500  passengers,  and  is  a very 
different  affair  from  the  miserable  little 
craft  that  travellers  have  heretofore  had 
to  put  up  with,  and  which  were  unsafe, 
slow,  and  most  uncomfortable. 


MISSOURI. 


ST.  LOUIS  TO  TEXAS. 

Via  Missouri^  Kansas  & Texas  Bailway. 

Stations. — St.  Louis  to  Sedalia,  188 
miles ; Windsor  (connects  with  daily 
stages  to  Warsaw  and  Springfield),  21  m. 
from  Sedalia : Calhoun,  29 ; Clinton  (con- 
nects with  daily  stages  to  Brownington, 
Osceola,  Humansville,  and  Bolivar),  40; 
Montrose  (connects  with  daily  stages  to 
Germantown  and  Johnstown),  63  ; Apple- 
ton  City  (connects  with  daily  stage  to 
Butler),  59;  Rockville,  6Y ; Schell  City, 
72  ; Walker’s,  83 ; Nevada  (connects  with 
daily  stages  to  Montevallo,  Virgin  City, 
Stockton,  Lamar,  Avola,  Greenfield, 
Granby,  Golden  City,  Springfield,  Bolivar, 
and  Carthage),  90 ; Fort  Scott  (connects 
with  Missouri  River,  Fort  Scott  & Gulf 
Railway),  111;  Marmaton,  118;  Walnut, 
137;  Osage  Mission,  145;  Parsons  (con- 
nects with  Neosho  Division;  also  with 
stages  for  Independence,  Elk  City,  and 
Elk  Falls),  156;  Labette,  164;  Oswego, 
170;  Chetopa,  182;  Blue  Jacket,  199; 
Yinita,  211  ; Chotcau,  245;  Gibson,  267; 
Muscogee  (connects  with  mail-stages  for 
312 


Fort  Smith,  Van  Buren,  etc.),  276 ; Oke- 
taha,  290 ; North  Forktown,  307 ; South 
Canadian,  320 ; Reams,  328  ; McAllister, 
336 ; Limestone  Gap,  363 ; Atoka,  380  ; 
Caddo  (connects  with  stage  for  Fort  Sill), 
400 ; Durant,  412  ; Colbert,  424 ; Denison 
(connects  with  Houston  & Texas  Central 
Railway,  for  all  points  in  Texas;  also 
with  stages  to  Paris,  Bonham,  Clarksville, 
etc.),  432;  Waco,  674;  Houston,  772; 
Galveston,  822 ; Austin,  837. 

The  completion  of  the  Missouri^  Kan- 
sas  & Texas  Railway  opens  another  grand 
through-route  between  the  West  and  the 
South,  and  brings  the  cattle-growing  dis- 
tricts of  Texas  within  three  or  four  days’ 
distance  of  the  Northern  markets.  It  is 
this  which  gives  the  road  its  importance, 
and  except  for  this  it  presents  little  of 
interest  to  the  tourist,  traversing  as  it 
does  a region  which  is  for  the  most 
part  unsettled,  barren,  and  destitute  of 
picturesque  features.  From  St.  Louis  to 
Sedalia  the  road  has  already  been  de- 
scribed as  part  of  Route  XVII.  {see  page 
86),  and  from  Denison  to  Galveston, 
Houston,  and  intermediate  points,  it  is 


APPENDIX. 


fully  described  in  the  Handbook  of 
JTravel — Southern  Tour.  At  Fort  Scott 
it  enters  Kansas,  and  at  Chetopa  the  In- 
dian Territory,  which  it  crosses  in  nearly 
a straight  line  from  north  to  south.  If 
the  traveller  desires  to  explore  the  great 


Indian  reservations,  this  is  the  road  which 
he  should  take,  as  it  carries  him  direct- 
ly into  their  midst ; otherwise  he  will 
have  but  little  to  claim  his  attention  in 
the  long  journey  of  nearly  a thousand 
miles. 


MONTANA. 


How  to  reacU  Yellowstone 

Park. — Until  the  completion  of  the 
Northeim  Pacific  Railway  to  its  vicinity, 
the  trip  to  the  Yellowstone  is  too  difficult 
to  be  made  by  any  save  the  hardiest  and 
most  enterprising  tourists.  The  easiest 
way  to  reach  the  Park  at  present  is  to 
take  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  to  its 
terminus,  from  which  a long  and  tedious 
but  delightful  horseback  ride  among  the 
settlements  along  the  Upper  Missouri  will 
bring  the  traveller  to  Fort  Ellis.  Fort 
Ellis  is  a frontier  military  post,  just  on 


the  verge  of  the  Yellowstone  Valley, 
and  is  the  virtual  starting-point  for 
all  who  would  behold  the  wonderful  re- 
gion beyond.  Here  guides  may  be  se- 
cured, a camp  equipage,  pack-mules, 
and  all  the  requirements  of  the  Yellow- 
stone tour. 

The  best  time  to  visit  the  Park  is  from 
the  first  of  July  to  the  end  of  September. 
At  any  other  season  the  traveller  is  liable 
to  be  overtaken  by  the  snow,  in  wdiich 
case  his  trip  would  prove  dangerous  as 
w'ell  as  uncomfortable. 


IDAHO. 


Palls. — The  following 
description  of  these  falls,  from  Clarence 
King’s  “Mountaineering  in  the  Sierra 
Nevada,”  is  the  best  that  has  yet  been 
given,  and  supplements  that  to  be  found 
in  the  body  of  the  Guide : “ In  plan  the 
fall  recurves  up-stream  in  a deep  horse- 
shoe, resembling  the  outline  of  Niagara. 
The  total  breadth  is  about  YOO  feet,  and 
the  greatest  height  of  the  single  fall 
about  190.  Among  the  islands  above  the 
brink  are  several  beautiful  cascades, 
where  portions  of  the  river  pour  over  in 
lace-like  forms.  The  whole  mass  of  the 
cataract  is  one  ever-varying  sheet^’of 
spray.  In  the  early  spring,  when  swollen 
by  the  rapidly-melted  snows,  the  river 
pours  over  with  something  like  the  grand 
volume  of  Niagara,  but,  at  the  time  of 
my  visit,  it  was  wholly  white  foam. 
Here  and  there  along  the  brink  the  un- 
derlying rock  shows  through,  and  among 
the  islands  shallow  green  pools  disclose 
the  forms  of  the  underlying  trachyte. 
Numberless  rough  shelves  break  the  fall, 
U 


but  the  volume  is  so  great  that  they  are 
only  discovered  by  the  glancing  outward 
of  the  foam.  The  river  below  the  falls 
is  very  deep.  The  right  bank  sinks  into 
the  water  in  a clear,  sharp  precipice,  but 
on  the  left  side  a narrow,  pebbly  beach 
extends  along  the  foot  of  the  cliff.  From 
the  top  of  the  wall,  at  a point  a quarter 
of  a mile  below  the  falls,  a stream  has 
gradually  worn  a little  stairway:  thick 
growths  of  evergreens  have  huddled  to- 
gether in  this  ravine.  The  trachytes  are 
very  curiously  worn  in  vertical  forms. 
Here  and  there  an  obelisk,  either  wholly 
or  half  detached  from  the  canon-wall, 
juts  out  like  a buttress.  Farther  down, 
these  projecting  masses  stand  like  a row 
of  columns  upon  the  left  bank ; above 
them,  a solid  capping  of  black  lava 
reaches  out  to  the  edge,  and  overhangs 
the  river  in  abrupt  black  precipices. 

“Under  the  influence  of  the  cool 
shadow  of  cliffs  and  pine,  and  constant 
percolating  of  surface-waters,  a rare  fer- 
tilitv  is  developed  in  the  ravines  opening 
313 


APPENDIX. 


upon  the  canon-shore.  A luxuriance  of 
ferns  and  mosses,  an  almost  tropical 
wealth  of  green  leaves  and  velvety  car- 
peting, line  the  banks.  There  are  no 
ixocks  at  the  base  of  the  fall.  The  sheet 
of  foam  plunges  almost  vertically  into  a 
dark,  beryl-green,  lake-like  expanse  of 
river.  Immense  volumes  of  foam  roll  up 
from  the  cataract  base,  and,  whirling 
about  in  the  eddying  winds,  rise  often  a 
thousand  feet  in  the  air.  When  the  v/ind 
^ows  down  the  canon,  a gray  mist  ob- 
>sbures  the  river  for  half  a mile;  and, 
^vhen,  as  is  usually  the  case,  the  breezes 
^low  eastward,  the  foam-cloud  curls  over 
^thc  brink  of  the  fall,  and  hangs  like  a 
t^Siipor  over  the  upper  river.  Incessant 
l^l^ar,  reenforced  by  a thousand  echoes, 
^lls  the  canon.  Out  of  this  monotone, 
3 from  time  to  time,  rise  strange,  wild 
314 


sounds,  and  now  and  then  may  be  heard 
a slow,  measured  beat,  not  unlike  thg^ 
recurring  fall  of  breakers.  From  the 
white  front  of  the  cataract  the  eye  con- 
stantly wanders  up  to  the  black,  frown- 
ing parapet  of  lava.  Angular  bastions 
rise  sharply  from  the  general  level  of  the 
wall,  and  here  and  there  isolated  blocks, 
profiling  upon  their  sky-line,  strikingly 
recall  barbette  batteries.  The  whole  edge 
of  the  canon  is  deeply  cleft  in  vertical 
crevasses.  The  actual  brink  is  usually 
formed  of  irregular  blocks  and  prisms 
of  lava,  poised  upon  their  ends  in  an 
unstable  equilibrium,  ready  to  be  tum- 
bled over  at  the  first  leverage  of  the 
frost.  Hardly  an  hour  passes  without 
the  sudden  boom  of  one  of  those  rock- 
masses  falling  upon  the  ragged  debris 
piles  below.” 


INDEX 


AVESTEKN  TOXJIi. 


Abilene,  Kas.,  91. 

Ackley,  lo.,  205. 

Adrian,  Mich.,  20. 

Akron,  0.,'29. 

Alabaster  Cave,  Cal.,  117 
Albion,  Mich.,  6. 

Albany,  Ogn.,  2S6. 

Albia,  lo.,  80. 

Alexandria,  Mo.,  102. 

Algona,  lo.,  206. 

Alkali,  Neb.,  99. 

Allegan,  Mich.,  211. 

Alliance,  O.,  23. 

Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines, 
Cal.,  279. 

Alton  Junction,  111.,  59. 
Altamont,  Md.,  07. 

Alton,  111.,  162. 

Amanda,  O.,  183. 

Anderson,  Ind.,  58. 

Angeles  Island,  Cal.,  207. 

Ann  Arbor,  Mich.,  5. 

Anoka,  Minn.,  226. 

Antioch,  Cal.,  290. 

Antwerp,  O.,  83. 

Antelope,  Neb.,  100. 

Appleton,  Wis.,  219. 

Areata,  Cal.,  2S7. 

Arched  Kock,  Mich.,  140. 
Ai-genta,  Nev.,  115. 

Arrow  Kock,  Mo.,  17 0. 

Ashland,  Ky.,  107. 

Ashland,  O.,  30. 

Ashland,  lo.,  82. 

Ashland,  Neb.,  240. 

Ashley,  111.,  195. 202. 

Ashtabula,  O.,  17. 

Aspen,  U.  T.,  106. 

Astoria,  Ogn.,  288. 

Atchison,  Kas.,  177. 

Athens,  O.,  71. 

Atlanta,  111.,  197. 

Atlantic  City,  Wy.,  106. 

Attica,  Ind.,  84. 

Auburn,  Cal.,  117. 

Auburn,  lU.,  197. 

Augusta,  Ky.,  168. 

Austin  City,  Nev.,  262. 

Austin,  Minn.,  206. 

Aurora,  Ind.,  59. 

Aurora,  111.,  79. 


Bad  Axe,  Wis.,  160. 

Bald  Eagle  Lake,  Minn.,  156. 
Baltimore,  Md.,  62. 

Bannack,  Mon.,  251. 

Bartlett  Springs,  Cal.,  274. 
Batrie  Creek,  Mich.,  6. 

Battle  Mountain,  Nev.,  115. 
Baxter  Springs,  Kas.,  235. 
Bayard,  O.,  183. 

Bay  City,  Mich.,  210. 

Bayfield,  Wis.,  149. 

Bear  Kiver,  U.  T.,  10 
Beatrice,  Neb.,  24^ 

Beaver,  Pa.,  165. 

Bedford,  Ind.,  191. 

Bellair,  O.,  70. 

Bellefontaine,  O.,  58. 

Belle  He,  Mich.,  4, 138. 
BelleviUe,  O.,  184. 

Bellevue,  lo.,  161. 

Bellevue,  Neb.,  178. 

Belmont,  O.,  70. 

Belmont,  Ky.,  168. 

Beloit,  Wis.,  199. 

Belpre,  O.,  71. 

Belvidere,  111.,  193. 

Benicia,  Cal,  268. 

Ben  wood,  W.  Ya.,  70. 

Bethalto,  111.,  59^^ 

Big  Bone  Lick  C^k,'Ky.,  169. 
Big  Sandy  Kiver,  lG|g^ 

Big  Spring,  Neb.,  10^ 

Big  Trees  of  Calaveras,  Cal., 
290.  J 

Big  Trees  of  Mariposa,  Cal./293. 
Big  Trees  of  Missouri,  228. 

Big  Trees  of  Tuolumne,  299. 
Bitter  Creek,  Wy.,  104. 

Blair,  Neb.,  239. 

Black  Bay,  152. 

Black  Hawk,  Col.  T.,  242. 

Black  Buttes,  Wy.,  104. 
Blanchester,  O.,  71. 
Blennerhasset’s  Island,  O.,  166. 
Bloomington,  111.,  196. 
Bloomington,  Ind.,  191. 

Blue  Kiver,  Ind.,  186. 

Bluff  City,  111.,  85. 

Boisee  or  Boise  City,  Idaho, 
253. 

Boone,  lo.,  73. 


Boone ville.  Mo.,  176. 

Boscobel,  Wis.,  217. 

Bower  Cave,  Cal.,  299. 
Brandenburg,  Ky.,  170. 
Bradford  Junction,  O.,  28. 
Brady  Island,  Neb..  99. 
Brainerd,  Minn.,  227. 

Brazil,  Ind.,  45. 

Breckenridge,  Minn.,  226. 
Breedsville,  Mich.,  212. 
Bridgeport,  O.,  166. 

Brighton,  Cal.,  119. 

Brighton,  111.,  197. 

Bristol,  Ind.,  21. 

British  Landing,  Mich.,  141. 
Brookfield  Junction,  Wis.,  216. 
Brookfield,  Mo.,  86. 

Brookfield,  Wis.,  217. 
Brookville,  Ind.,  Ic^. 
Brookville,  Kas.,  92. 
Brownsville,  Mmn.,  160. 
Brown  ville.  Neb.,  1T8. 
Brunswick,  Mo.,  76, 

Bryan,  O.,  21. 

Bryan,  Wy.,  105. 

Bucyrus,  O.,  24. 

Bunker  Hill,  111.,  59. 

Bunker  Hill,  Ind.,  28, 186. 
Bureau,  111.,  76. 

Burlingame,  Kas.,  236. 
Burlington,  lo.,  79. 

Burlington,  Kas.,  236. 
Burlington,  O.,  167. 

Burnett,  Wis.,  218. 

Bushnell,  111.,  197. 

Bushnell,  Ind.,  81. 

Butler,  Ind.,  21. 

Cadiz,  O.,  26. 

Cadiz  Junction,  25. 

Cairo,  lU.,  172. 

Caledonia,  111.,  172. 

Caledonia,  O.,  30. 

California,  Mo.,  88.  /*'-,• 

Calistoga,  Cal.,  269.  . ' 

Calmar,  lo.,  206. 

Calumet,  111.,  195. 

Camanche,  lo.,  73, 161. 
Cambridge,  O.,  70. 

Cambridge  City,  Ind.,  43, 1ST. 
Camden,  O.,  187. 

315 


INDEX. 


Cameron,  Mo.,  86. 

Camp  Douglas,  U.  T.,  112. 
Camp  Point,  111.,  198. 

Camp  Stambaugh,  Wy.,  106. 
Cannelton,  Ind.,  170. 

Canon  City,  Col.  T.,  242. 
Canon  City,  Ogn.,  306. 
Canton,  Mo.,  162. 

Canton,  III.,  81. 

Canton,  O.,  23. 

Cape  an  Gris,  111.,  162. 

<^/ape  Girardeau,  Mo.,  172. 
Cape  Horn,  Cal.,  117. 
Carbon,  Wy.,  103. 
Oarbondale,  111.,  195. 
Cardington,  O.,  184. 

Carey,  O.,  182. 

Caribou  Island,  152. 

Carlin,  Nev.,  114. 

Carlinville,  111.,  197. 

Carlyle,  111.,  60. 

Carquiuez,  Straits  of,  268. 
Carrollton,  Ky.,  169. 

Carter,  U.  T.,  106. 

Cascade  Kange,  Cal.,  305. 
Caseyville,  111.,  60. 

Caseyville,  Ky.,  171. 

Castalia,  O.,  182. 

Castle  Rock,  U.  T.,  107. 
Cassville,  Wis.,  160. 
Catlettsburg,  Ky.,  167. 

Cave  in  Rock,  111.,  171. 
Cedar  Falls,  lo.,  205. 

Cedar  Rapids,  lo.,  73. 
Centralia,  111.,  195. 

Central  City,  Col.  T.,  242. 
Centreville,  Ind.,  42. 
Centreville,  Minn.,  153. 
Champaign,  111.,  195. 
Chariton  River,  Mo.,  176. 
Chariton,  lo.,  80. 

Charles  City,  lo.,  204. 
Charleston,  111.,  58, 

Charlotte,  Mich.,  211. 
Chawamegon  Bay,  149. 
Cheat  River,  67. 

Chenoa,  111.,  81. 

Cherokee,  lo.,  205. 

Chester,  111.,  173. 

Chetopa,  Kas.,  237. 
Cheyenne,  Wy.,  94, 101. 
Chicago,  111.,  6. 

Chico,  Cal,  284. 

Chillicothe,  Mo.,  86. 
Chillicothe,  O.,  71. 

Church  Buttes,  U.  T.,  106. 
Cincinnati,  O.,  31. 

CircleviUe,  O.,  183. 
Clarksburg,  W.  Va.,  70. 

Clay  City,  111.,  60. 

Clayton,  Cal.,  275. 

Clayton,  lo.,  160. 

Claysville,  W.  Va.,  70. 

Clear  Lake,  Cal.,  274. 
Cleveland,  O.,  17, 137. 
Clifton,  111.,  195. 

Climax,  Mich.,  211. 

Clinton,  lo.,  73, 161. 

Clinton,  Mo.,  231. 

Clinton,  Wis.,  218. 
Cloverport,  Ky.,  170. 

Clyde,  O.,  182. 

Cold  water,  Mich.,  21. 

316 


Colfax,  Cal.,  117. 

Colfax,  Ind.,  188. 

Colorado  City,  Col.  T.,  242. 
Colorado  Mining  Districts,  242. 
Colorado,  Territory  of,  241. 
Columbia  River,  Ogn.,  288,  304. 
Columbia,  Ind.,  24. 

Columbus,  Ind.,  189. 

Columbus,  lo.,  204. 

Columbus,  Kas.,  234. 

Columbus,  Neb.,  98. 

Columbus,  O.,  26. 

Columbus,  Wis.,  217. 
Commerce,  Mo.,  172. 

Como,  Wy.,  103. 

Conneaut,  O.,  17. 

Connersville,  Ind.,  187. 

Congress  Springs,  Cal.,  282. 
Copper  Harbor,  Mich.,  143. 
Copperopolis,  Cal.,  300. 

Cornice  Rocks,  172. 

Coshocton,  O.,  26. 

Council  Bluffs,  lo.,  74. 

Council  Grove,  Kas.,  236. 
Covington,  Ind.,  191. 

Cranberry  Summit,  W.  Va.,  67. 
Crawfordsville,  Ind.,  191. 
Crescent  City,  Cal.,  288. 
Crestline,  O.,  24. 

Creston,  lo.,  80. 

Creston,  Wy.,  104. 

Crow  Wing,  Minn.,  226. 

Crystal  Lake,  111.,  199. 
Cumberland,  Md.,  66. 

Cuyahoga  River,  17. 

Dakota,  Territory  of,  240. 

Dalles  City,  Ogn.,  305. 

Dalles  of  the  St.  Louis,  The,  153. 
Dalles  of  the  Wisconsin,  214. 
Danville,  Ind.,  34,  58. 
Davenport,  lo.,  77. 

Dayton,  O.,  30. 

Dearborn,  Mich.,  5. 

Decatur,  111.,  84. 

Decota,  Cal.,  120. 

Defiance,  O.,  83. 

Delaware,  O.,  184. 

Delphi,  Ind.,  83. 

Delphos,  O.,  24. 

Des  Moines,  lo.,  73. 

Denison,  lo.,  74. 

Denver,  Col.,  92. 

Des  Plaines  River,  194. 

Detroit,  Mich.,  2. 

Detroit  River,  137. 

Devil’s-gate  Station,  U.  T.,  108. 
Devil’s  Kitchen,  The,  Mich.,  141. 
Devil’s  Slide,  U.  T.,  108. 

Devil’s  Tea-table,  172. 

Dixon,  111.,  72. 

Donahue,  Cal.,  273. 

Donner  Lake,  Cal.,  116. 
Dresden,  O.,  26. 

Dubuque,  lo.,- 161. 

Dxluth,  Minn.,  149. 

Dunlap,  lo.,  74. 

Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  137. 

Dunleith,  111.,  161. 

Dunleith,  111.,  161, 198. 

Dwight,  111.,  196. 

Eagle  Harbor,  Mich.,  148. 


Eagle  River,  148. 

East  Burlington,  111.,  79. 

East  Canon  City,  U.  T.,  256. 
East  Hannibal,  111.,  85. 

East  Leavenworth,  Mo.,  235. 
East  Saginaw,  Mich.,  210. 

East  St.  Louis,  46. 

Eaton,  O.,  187. 

Eau  Claire,  Wis.,  217. 

JCcho  Canon,  U.  T.,  107. 

Echo  City,  U.  T.,  103. 

Economy,  Pa.,  165. 

Edinburg,  Ind.,  189. 

Edgerton,  O.,  21. 

Edgcwood,  111.,  195. 

Etogham,  lU.,  45, 195. 
Elizabethtown,  111.,  171. 

Elkhart,  Ind.,  21,  22. 

Elkhorn,  Neb.,  96. 

Elkhorn,  Wis.,  220. 

Elko,  Nev.,  114. 

Ellicott’s  Mills,  Md.,  62. 

Ellis,  Cal.,  120. 

Ellsworth,  Kas.,  92. 

Elm  Creek,  Neb.,  93. 

Elyria,  O.,  19. 

Elysville,  Md.,  62. 

El  Paso,  111.,  81. 

Emporia,  Kas.,  236. 
Encampment  River  and  Island, 
Minn.,  151. 

Erie,  Pa.,  137. 

Escanaba,  Mich.,  220. 

Eugene  City,  Ogn.,  286. 

Eureka,  Cal.,  287. 

Evans,  Col.,  93. 

Evanston,  111.,  15. 

Evanston,  U.  T.,  107. 

Evanston,  Wy.  T.,  248. 
Evansville,  Md.,  171. 

Fairfield,  lo.,  80. 

Fairland,  Md.,  188. 

Fairmont,  W.  Va.,  69. 

Falls  City,  Neb.,  240. 

Faribault,  Minn.,  223. 

Farley,  lo.,  205. 

Farmington,  lo.,  82. 

Farralone  Islands,  134. 

Feather  River,  Cal.,  286. 
Fetterman,  W.  Va.,  63. 

Findlay,  O.,  182. 

Flint,  Mich.,  210. 

Florence,  Neb.,  178. 

Florin,  Col.,  119. 

Fond  du  Lac,  Wis.,  219. 
Fontana,  Kas.,  234. 

Forest,  O.,  24, 182. 

Formosa,  Mo.,  176. 

Fortification  Rock,  Wis.,  214. 
Fort  Benton,  Neb.,  178. 

Fort  Dodge,  lo.,  205. 

Fort  Gratiot,  Mich.,  139. 

Fort  Harker,  Kas.,  92. 

Fort  Hays,  Kas.,  92. 

Fort  Howard,  Wis.,  219. 

Fort  Leavenworth,  Kas.,  177. 
Fort  Madison,  lo.,  162. 

Fort  Mackinaw,  Mich.,  140. 
Fort  Point,  Cal.,  135. 

Fort  Riley,  Kas.,  91. 

Fort  Sanders,  Wy.,  102. 

Fort  Scott,  Kas.,  232. 


INDEX. 


Fort  Sneliing-,  Minn.,  156. 
Fort  St.  Clair,  Mich.,  139. 
Fort  Wallace,  Kas.,  92. 

Fort  Wayne,  Ind.,  24. 

Fort  Wayne,  Mich.,  4, 137. 
Fort  William,  Can.,  151. 
Fountain  City,  Wis.,  159. 
Fox  Eiver,  194. 

Frankfort,  Ind.,  188. 
Frankfort,  O.,  71. 

Franklin,  Ind.,  189. 
Frederick  City,  Md.,  63. 
Frederick  Junction,  Md.,  63. 
Freeport,  111.,  198. 

Fremont,  FTeb.,  97,  239. 
Frontenac,  Minn.,  159. 
Fulton,  111..  73. 


Galena,  111.,  161, 198.  . 
Galesburg,  III,  79. 

Gallon,  O.,  30. 

Gallipolis,  0.,  167. 

Galt,  Cal.,  119. 

Galva,  111.,.  79. 

Garden  Eiver  Settlement,  142. 
Garnitt,  Kas.,  235. 

Gasconade,  Mo.,  87. 

Gasconade  Eiver,  229. 

Geneseo,  111.,  76. 

Geneva,  III.,  72. 

Georgetown,  Col.  T.,  242. 
Germantown,  Wis.,  218. 

Gilman,  111.,  81, 195. 

Gilmore,  Keb.,  96. 

Gilroy,  Cal.,  280. 

Girard,  Kas.,  234. 

Glasgow.  Mo.,  176. 

Glenwood,  lo.,  80. 

Godfrey,  111.,  197. 

Golconda,  111.,  171. 

Golconda,  Kev.,  115. 

Golden  City,  Col.  T.,  242. 
Golden  Gate,  134. 

Goshen,  Ind.,  22. 

Gosport,  Ind.,  191. 

Gralton,  O.,  63. 

Grafton,  W.  Ya.,  68,  70. 
Grandfather  Bull  Falls,  Mich., 
214. 

Grand  Haven,  Mich.,  209. 

Grand  Island,  145. 

Grand  Island,  Neb.,  98. 

Grand  Portage,  Minn.,  151. 
Grand  Eapids,  Mich.,  209. 
Grand  Eiver,  Mo.,  176. 

Grand  Tower,  111.,  172. 

Granger,  TJ.  T.,  106. 

Grave  Creek,  W.  Va.,  166. 

Great  American  Desert,  U.  T., 
113. 

Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri,  The, 
174. 

Great  Geyser  Springs,  Cal.,  271. 
Great  Kanawha  Eiver,  167. 
Great  Mariposa  Tract,  Cal.,  293. 
Great  Miami  Eiver,  168, 181. 
Great  Salt  Lake,  U.  T.,  113. 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  U.  T., 
109. 

Greeley,  Col.  T.,  93. 

Greenim,  Ind.,  45. 

Green  Bay,  Wis.,  219. 


Green  Bay  City,  Wis.,  219. 
Green  Eiver,  Ky.,  171. 

Green  Eiver  Station,  Wy.,  104. 
Greensburg,  Ind.,  188. 
Greencastle,  Ind.,  44,  53. 
Greenfield,  O.,  71. 

Greenfield,  Ind.,  42. 

Greenville,  Ind.,  46. 

Greenville,  Mich.,  210. 
Greenville,  O.,  42. 
Greenupsburg,  Ky.,  167. 
Grinnell,  lo.,  78. 

Grosse  Isle,  Mich.,  4. 

Grosse  Pointe,  Mich.,  4. 
Guttenberg,  lo.,  160. 
Guyandotte,  W.  Va.,  167. 

Hagerstown,  Ind.,  187. 
Hamilton,  Mo.,  86. 

Hamilton  City,  Nev.,  263. 
Hamilton,  O.,*  31. 

Hamden,  O.,  71. 

Hancock,  Mich.,  147. 

Hanging  Eock,  O.,  167. 
Hannibal,  Mo.,  85. 

Harlem,  111.,  15. 

Harper’s  Ferry,  W.  Ya.,  64. 
Harvard,  111.,  199. 

Hastings,  Minn.,  158. 
HawesviUe,  Ky.,  171. 
Hayward’s,  Cal.,  276. 

Hazard,  Wy.,  101. 

Healdsburg,  Cal.,  271. 
Herculaneum,  Mo.,  173. 
Helena,  Mon.,  250. 

Hermann,  Mo.,  87. 

Henderson,  Ky.,  171. 
Hillsboro’,  111.,  59. 

Hillsdale,  Mich.,  21. 

Hfilsdale,  Wy.,  100. 

Highland,  lU.,  46. 

High  Sierra  Mts.,  Cal.,  301. 
Hocking  Eiver,  180. 
Hocktown,  Cal.,  287. 
Houghton,  Mich.,  146. 

Holden,  Mo.,  88. 

Homewood,  Pa.,  23. 

Hopkins,  Mo.,  231. 

Horicon,  Wis.,  218. 

Hornitos,  Cal.,  293. 

Holly,  Mich.,  208. 

Hot  Springs,  IT.  T„  255. 

Hot  Springs  Valley,  Nev.,  115. 
Hudson,  Mich.,  21. 

Hudson,  O.,  183. 

Hudson,  Wis.,  219. 

Humboldt,  Kas.,  236. 
Humboldt  Lake,  Nev.,  261. 
Humboldt  YaUey,  Nev.,  114. 
Humboldt  Wells,  Nev.,  113. 
Hunter’s  Point.  Cal.,  134. 
Huntingdon,  Ind.,  83. 

Idaho  City,  Idaho,  254. 

Idaho  Soda  Springs,  245. 
Idaho,  Territory  of,  252. 

Idle  wild  Cave,  Nev.,  264. 
IlelaPeche,  138. 

Illinois,  192. 

Ilhnois  Eiver,  193. 
Independence,  Mo.,  88. 
Indianapolis,  Ind.,  43. 

Indiana,  State  of^  185. 


lola,  Kas.,  236. 

Ionia,  Mich.,  209. 

Iowa  City,  lo.,  78. 

Iowa,  State  of,  202. 
Ironton,  O.,  167. 

Isle  Eoyal,  Mich.,  151. 

Jackson,  Mich.,  5. 
Jacksonville,  111.,  85. 
Jacksonville,  Ogn.,  285. 
Jefferson  City,  Mo.,  88. 
Jefiersofiville,  Ind.,  169. 
Joliet,  111.,  75. 

Jonesboro,  111.,  196. 
Jonesville,  Mich.,  21. 
Julesburg,  Neb.,  100. 
Junction,  Cal.,  118. 
Junction  City,  Kas.,  91. 
Junction,  111.,  72. 

Kaskaskia,  111.,  173. 
Kalamazoo,  Mich.,  6. 
Kandiyohi,  Minn.,  225 
Kankakee,  111.,  195. 
Kansas  City,  Mo.,  89. 
Kansas  Eiver,  177,  233. 
Kansas,  State  of,  232. 
Kearney,  Neb.,  98. 
Kearneysville,  W.  Ya.,  65. 
Keithsburg,  111.,  161. 
Kelseyville,  Cal.,  274. 
Kelton,  U.  T.,  113. 
Kendallville,  Ind.,  22. 
Kenosha,  Wis.,  199. 
Kenton,  O.,  182. 
Kentucky  Eiver,  169. 
Keokuk,  lo.,  82, 162. 
Keweenaw  Point,  148. 
Kickapoo  City,  Kas.,  177. 
Kinmunday,  111.,  195. 
Kirkwood,  Mo.,  87. 

Kit  Carson,  Col.  T.,  92. 
Knightstown,  Ind.,  42. 
Knobnoster,  Mo.,  88. 
Kokomo,  Ind.,  187. 

Lac  la  Belle,  148. 

La  Clede,  Mo.,  86. 

La  Crescent,  Minn.,  160. 
La  Croix,  Ind.,  191. 

La  Crosse,  Ind.,  29, 191. 
La  Crosse,  Wis.,  160. 
Lafayette,  Ind.,  84. 
Lagro,  Ind.,  83. 

Lake  City,  Minn.,  157. 
Lake  Como,  Minn.,  156. 
Lake  Erie,  136. 

Lake  Forest,  111.,  15. 
Lake  George,  Mich.,  142. 
Lake  Huron,  139. 

Lakes  of  Minnesota,  222. 
Lake  Pepin,  159. 

Lake  St.  Clair,  138. 

Lake  St.  Croix,  227. 

Lake  Superior,  143. 

Lake  Tahoe,  Cal.,  117. 
Lake  View,  lU.,  15. 
Lakeport,  Cal.,  274. 

La  Mine  Eiver,  Mo.,  176. 
Lancaster,  O.,  183. 
Lansing,  lo.,  160. 

La  Pointe,  Wis.,  149. 

317 


INDEX. 


Laporte,  Ind.,  22, 189. 

Laramie,  Wy.,  102. 

Lathrop,  Cal.,  119. 

Lathrop,  Mo.,  231. 

Lawrence,  Kas.,  90. 
ifiawrenceburg',  Ind.,  59,  163. 
Lawton,  Mich.,  6. 

Laurel,  Ind.,  187. 

Leavenworth,  Kas.,  177. 
Leavenworth,  Ind.,  170. 
Leavittsburg,  O.,  29. 

Lebanon,  111.,  60. 

Lebanon,  Ind.,  188. 

Le  Clair,  lo.,  161. 

Lee’s  Summit,  Mo.,  88. 

Leroy,  Kas.,  236. 

Les  Cyg’nes,  Kas.,  231. 
Lewiston,  Idaho,  251. 
Lexington,  Mo.,  231,  170. 
Lexington,  O.,  71. 

Liberty,  Ind.,  188. 

Liberty  Landing,  Mo.,  176. 
Ligonier,  Ind.,  22. 

Lima,  O.,  24. 

Lime  Island,  142. 

Lincoln,  111.,  197. 

Lincoln,  Keb.,  239. 

Litchfield,  lU.,  59. 

Little  Miami  Kiver,  168,  180. 
Little  Platte  Eiver,  lo.,  177. 
Littleton,  W.  Va.,  69. 
Lockport,  111.,  196. 

Loda,  111.,  195. 

Logan,  O.,  184. 

Logan  sport,  Ind.,  28. 

London,  O.,  41. 

London ville,  O.,  24. 

Lone  Tree,  Neb.,  98. 

Los  Angeles,  Cal.,  281. 
Louisiana,  Mo.,  162. 

Louisville,  Ky.,  169. 

Loveland,  O.,  41,  72. 

Lover’s  Leap,  The,  Mich.,  141. 
Lower  Lake,  Cal.,  274. 

Lyons,  lo.,  101. 


Mackinaw  Island,  Mich.,  140. 
Macomb,  lU.,  198. 

Macon,  Mo.,  86. 

Madison,  Ind.,  169. 

Madison,  Wis.,  199,  216. 
Magnetic  Spring,  Mich.,  207. 
taiden  Rock,  Wis.,  159. 
lakanda.  111.,  196. 

Jalden,  Can.,  137. 

Maraainse  Point,  Can.,  152  . 
Manchester,  lo.,  205. 
Manchester,  O.,  168. 

Manhattan,  Kas.,  91. 

Manitou  Island,  148. 

Mankato,  Minn.,  224. 
Mannington,  W.  Va.,  69. 
Mansfield,  O.,  24. 

Mare  Island,  Cal.,  268. 

Marietta,  O.,  166. 

Marion,  0.,  30. 

Mariposa  Big  Trees,  Cal.,  293. 
Mariposa,  Cal.,  293. 

Marquette  Iron  Region,  The, 
145. 

Marquette,  Mich.,  145. 

Marriotts ville,  Md.,  62. 

318 


Marshall,  Ind.,  45. 

Marshall,  lo.,  73. 

Marshall,  Mich.,  6. 

Martinsburg,  W.  Va.,  65. 
Martinsville,  Ind.,  191. 
Marysville  Buttes,  Cal.,  283. 
Marysville,  Cal.,  283. 

Maryville,  Mo.,  231. 

Mason  City,  lo.,  206. 

Massillon,  O.,  24. 

Matlin,  U.  T.,  113. 

Mattteon,  111.,  195. 

Mattoon,  111.,  59. 

Maumee  City,  O.,  83. 

Maumee  River,  181, 186. 
Maysville,  Ky.,  168. 

McGregor,  lo.,  160. 

McPherson,  Neb.,  99. 

Medora,  Ind.,  60. 

Medicine  Bow,  Wy.,  103. 
Meeting  of  the  Waters,  111.,  163. 
Mendota,  111.,  79. 

Mendota,  Minn.,  223. 

Mendocino  City,  Cal.,  287. 
Menomonee,  Wis.,  217,  219. 
Metropolis  City,  111.,  172. 
Michigan,  Lake,  207. 

Michigan  City,  Ind.,  6, 191. 
Michigan,  State  of,  206. 
Michipicotin  Harbor  and  River, 
152. 

Michipicotin  Island,  Can.,  152. 
Middleville,  Mich.,  211. 

Milford,  O.,  28,  41. 

Milton,  Cal.,  290. 

Milton  Junction,  Wis.,  216. 
Milwaukee  River,  215. 
Milwaukee,  Wis.,  215. 
Minneapolis,  Minn.,  224. 
Minnehaha  Falls,  Minn.,  156. 
Mmneiski,  Wis.,  159. 

Minnesota  River,  222. 
Minnesota,  State  of,  221. 
Minnesota,  Wis.,  218. 
Mishawaka,  Ind.,  22. 

Mission  Dolores,  Cal.,  134. 
Mission  San  Jose,  Cal.,  276. 
Mississippi  River,  156. 

Missouri  River,  The,  173. 
Missouri,  State  of,  227. 

Missouri  Valley  Junction,  74. 
Mitchell,  Ind.,  60, 191. 
Mokelumne  Hill,  Cal.,  119,  301. 
Moleen,  Nev.,  114. 

Moline,  111.,  76. 

Mona,  lo.,  204. 

Monee,  III.,  195. 

Monmouth,  111.,  79. 

Monroe,  Mich.,  209. 

Monroe,  Mo.,  85. 

Montana,  Territory  of,  248. 
Monterey,  Cal.,  282. 

Montrose,  lo.,  162. 

Moorhead,  Minn.,  227. 

Morris,  111.,  75. 

Morris,  Ind.,  188. 

Mormonism  and  the  Mormons, 
257. 

Morrow,  O.,  41. 

Mound  City,  111.,  172. 

Mounds,  111.,  196. 

Moundsville,  W.  Va.,  69. 
Mountain  Island.  160. 


Mount  Airy,  Md.,  62. 

Mount  Diablo,  Cal.,  275. 

Mount  St.  Helena,  Cal.,  270. 
Mount  Pleasant,  lo.,  80. 

Mount  Shasta,  or  Tehasta,  CaL 
284. 

Mount^Tamalpais,  Cal.,  275. 
Mount  Uncle  Sam,  Cal.,  274. 
Mount  Vernon,  Ind.,  171. 
Monroeville,  O.,  184. 

Mount  Clemens,  Mich.,  209. 
Mount  Vernon,  111.,  202. 

Mount  Vernon,  O.,  184. 

Mud  Lake,  142. 

Muncie,  Ind.,  58. 

Munising,  145. 

Muscatine,  lo.,  161. 

Muskegon,  Mich.,  211. 
Muskingum  River,  180. 

Napa  Creek,  Cal.,  268. 
Napierville,  111.,  79. 

Naples,  111.,  85. 

Napoleon,  O.,  83. 

Natural  Caves  and  Bridges,  Cal., 
290. 

Nauvoo  City,  111.,  162. 

Nebish  Rapids,  142. 

Nebraska  City,  Neb.,  239. 
Nebraska,  State  of,  237. 
Neepigon  Bay,  152. 

Negaunee,  145. 

Nelson  ville,  O.,  184. 

Neosho  Falls,  Kas.,  236. 

New  Albany,  Ind.,  170. 

Newark,  O.,  26. 

New  Buffalo,  Mich.,  6. 
Newburg,  O.,  183. 

Newburg,  W.  Va.,  68. 
Newcastle,  Ind.,  187. 

New  Chicago,  Kas.,  237. 

New  Lexington,  O.,  183. 

New  Philadelphia,  O.,  183. 

New  Richmond,  O.,  168. 
Newton,  lo.,  78. 

New  Westminster,  B.  C.,  289.  ’ 
Nevada,  Mo.,  231. 

Nevada  Silver  Mines,  261. 
Nevada,  State  260. 

Nicolaus,  Cal.,  287. 

Niles,  Cal.,  120. 

Niles,  Mich.,  6. 

Niobrara  River,  238. 

Noblesville,  Ind.,  189. 

Nodaway  City,  Mo.,  178. 
Normal,  111.,  196. 

North  Bend,  Neb.,  97. 

North  Bend,  O.,  168. 

North  Mountain,  W.  Va.,  65. 
North  Platte,  Neb.,  99. 

North  Shore  of  Lake  Superior, 
150. 

North  Topeka,  Kas.,  236. 

North  Vernon,  Ind.,  60,  180. 
Norwalk,  O.,  19. 


Oakland,  Cal.,  120. 
Oakland,  Md.,  67, 

Oberlin,  O.,  19. 

Odin,  III.,  60, 195. 

O’Fallon  Station,  Neb.,  99. 
OgaUala,  Neb.,  99. 


INDEX. 


Ogden,  Kas.,  91. 

Ogden,  U.  T.,  109. 

Ohio  Eiver,  The,  164. 

Ohio,  State  of,  179. 

Olathe,  Kas.,  234. 

Old  Jefferson,  Mo.,  176. 

Old  Mission,  Cal.,  280. 

Olney,  111.,  60. 

Olympia,  W.  T.,  307. 

Omaha,  Web.,  95. 

Onarga,  111.,  195. 

Ontonagon,  Mich.,  148. 
Oqnawka,  111.,  161. 

Orangeville,  O.,  29. 

Oregon,  303. 

Oregon  City,  Ogn.,  286. 

Oroville,  Cal.,  284. 

Orville,  O.,  24. 

Osage  Kiver,  229. 

Osceola,  lo.,  80. 

Osceola,  Minn.,  227. 

Oshkosh,  Wis.,  219, 

Oskaloosa,  lo.,  82. 

Oswego,  Kas.,  237. 

Ottawa,  Kas.,  235. 

Ottawa,  111.,  75. 

Ottumwa,  lo.,  80. 

Owatonna,  Minn.,  223. 
Owensborough,  Ky.,  171. 
Owosso,  Mich.,  208. 

Oxford,  O.,  31. 

Pacheco,  Cal.,  275. 

Pacific,  Mo.,  87. 

Packv^e,  Mo.,  177, 

Paducah,  Ky.,  171. 

Painesville,  O.,  17. 

Palisade,  Nev.,  114. 

Palisades,  The,  Minn.,  151. 
Palmyra,  Mo.,  85. 

Pana,  111.,  59. 

Paola,  Kas,,  234. 

Papillon  Station,  Web.,  96. 

Paris,  111.,  58. 

Paris,  Mich.,  211. 

Parkersburg,  W.  Va.,  70. 

Parks  of  Colorado,  243. 
Parkville,  Mo.,  235. 

Parma,  Mich.;  5. 

Paso  Kobles  Hot  Springs,  Cal., 
280. 

Patagannissing  Bay,  141. 
Patterson’s  Creek,  Md.,  66. 
Pawnee  City,  Web.,  239. 

Paxton,  111.,  195. 

Pekin,  111.,  201. 

Pendleton,  Ind.,  58. 

Peoria,  111.,  81. 

Pequop,  Wev.,  113. 

Percy,  Wy.,  103. 

Peru,  Ind.,  83. 

Pescadero,  CaL,  283. 

Petaluma,  Cal.,  273. 

Petenwell  Peak,  Wis.,  214. 
Petrified  Forest,  CaL,  270. 
Petroleum,  W.  Ya.,  70. 

Phelan’s  Lake,  Minn.,  156. 
Pictured  Eocks,  The,  144. 
Piedmont,  IT.  T.,  106. 

Piedmont,  W.  Ya.,  67. 

Pie  Island,  Can.,  151. 

Pigeon  Eiver,  151. 

Pine  Bluffs,  Web.,  100. 


Piqua,  O.,  28. 

Pittsburg,  Pa.,  25. 

Pleasant  Hill,  Mo.,  88. 
Pleasanton,  Kas.,  234. 

Plainfield,  Ind.,  44. 

Platte  Eiver  hnd  Yalley,  Web., 
238. 

Plattsmouth,  Web.,  240. 

Plum  Creek,  Web.,  98. 
Plymouth,  Ind.,  25. 

Point  Douglas,  Minn.,  158. 
Point  du  Tour,  Mich.,  141. 
Point  Edward,  Ont.,  139. 

Point  Ignace,  Mich.,  140. 

Point  Pleasant,  O.,  168. 

Point  Pleasant,  W.  Ya.,  167. 
Point  of  Eocks,  Md.,  63. 

Point  of  Eocks,  Wy.,  104. 

Point  St.  Quentin,  Cal.,  267. 
Pomeroy,  O.,  166. 

Pontiac,  111.,  196. 

Pontiac,  Mich.,  208, 

Pond  Creek,  lU.,  76. 

Pope  Yalley  Quicksilver  Mines, 
Cal.,  269. 

Porcupine  Mountain,  148. 
Portage  City,  Wis.,  217. 

Portage  Entry,  146. 

Portage  Lake,  147. 

Portage  Lake  Ship -Canal,  147. 
Port  Huron,  Mich.,  139. 
Portland,  Ky.,  170. 

Portland,  Mich.,  210. 

Portland,  Ogn.,  288. 
Portsmouth,  Mich.,  210. 
Portsmouth,  O.,  167. 

Port  Townsend,  W.  T.,  307. 
Potter,  Web.,  100. 

Potosi,  Wis.,  160. 

Prairie  du  Chien,  Wis.,  160. 
Prescott,  Kas.,  234. 

Prescott,  Wis.,  158. 

Presidio,  The,  Cal.,  135. 
Princeton,  111.,  79. 

Princeton,  Ind.,  192. 
Promontory  Point,  IT.  T.,  112. 
Prout’s,  O.,  184. 

Providence,  Mo.,  176. 

Puda,  111.,  79. 

Puget  Sound,  288. 

Put-in-bay  Islands,  5, 137. 
Pyramid  Lake,  Wev.,  261. 

Quincy,  HI.,  162. 

Eacine,  Wis.,  214. 

Eamsey,  Minn.,  224. 

Eandolph,  Mo.,  176. 

Eavenna,  O.,  29. 

Eawling,  Wy.,  103. 

Eed  Bluff,  CaL,  284. 

Eed  Buttes,  Wy.,  102. 

Eed  Desert,  Wy.,  104. 

Eed  Oak,  lo.,  80. 

Eedwood  City,  CaL,  277. 

Eed  Wing,  Minn.,  l59. 

Eeed’s  Landing,  Minn.,  159. 
Eeefing  Creek,  Md.,  65. 

Eeese  Eiver  Mining  District, 
Wev.,  262. 

Eeno,  Wev.,  116. 

Eepublican  Eiver,  238. 
Eeynolds,  Ind.,  81, 191. 


Eichmond,  Ind.,  42. 

Eichmond,  Mo.,  231. 

Eidgeway,  Mich.,  209. 

Eipley,  O.,  168. 

Eising  Sun,  Ind.,  169. 

Eiverside,  111.,  15. 

Eobinson’s  Folly,  Mich.,  141. 
Eocheport,  Mo.,  176. 

Eochester,*  Ind.,  189. 

Eochester,  Minn.,  224, 
Eochester,  Pa.,  23,  183. 

Eock  Bluff,  Web.,  178. 

Eock  Creek,  Wy.,  103. 
Eockford,  111.,  198. 

Eock  Island,  111.,  76. 

Eocklin,  CaL,  Ilk 
Eockport,  Ind.,  171. 

Eock  Eiver,  111.,  193. 

Eock  Springs,  Wy.,  104. 
Eockville,  Ind.,  192. 

Eocky  Mountains,  Tours  to  theu 
244. 

Eome,  O.,  168. 

Eome,  Ind.,  170. 

■•Eomeo,  Mich,,  212. 

Eound  Island,  141. 

Eulo,  Web.,  239. 

Eush  Lake,  Wis.,  218. 

Eushville,  Ind.,  188. 

Sacramento,  CaL,  268. 
Sacramento  Eiver,  Cal.,  268. 
Saginaw  City,  Mich.,  210 
Sangamon  Eiver,  194. 

Saint  Clair,  Mich.,  138. 

Saint  Joseph’s  Island,  141. 

Saint  Mary’s  Eiver,  141. 

Salem,  O.,  23. 

Salem,  Ogn.,  286. 

Salina,  Kas.,  92. 

Salt  Lake  Yalley,  Great,  254. 
Salt  Mountain,  IT.  T.,  255. 

Salt  Springs,  Wy.,  104. 
Sandoval,  111.,  60. 

Sandusky,  O.,  182. 

Sauk  Eapids,  Minn.,  226. 

San  Bernardino,  CaL,  281. 

San  Diego,  CaL,  281. 

San  Francisco  Bay,  CaL,  287 
San  Francisco,  CaL,  121. 

San  Joaquin  Eiver,  289. 

San  Jose,  CaL,  277. 

San  Luis  Obispo,  CaL,  280. 

San  Pablo  Bay,  CaL,  267. 

San  Eafael,  CaL,  267,  275. 

Santa  Barbara,  CaL,  280. 

Santa  Clara,  CaL,  277. 

Santa  Clara  Yalley,  CaL,  278. 
Santa  Cruz,  CaL,  282. 

Santa  Eosa,  CaL,  273. 

Sarnia,  Ont.,  139. 

Saucelito,  CaL,  267. 

Saut  St.  Marie,  Mich.,  142. 
Savannah,  111.,  161. 

Savannah,  Mo.,  231. 

Scioto  Eiver,  180. 

Schuyler,  Web.,  97. 
Schwartzburg,  Wis.,  218. 

Seal  Eock,  CaL,  134. 

Seattle,  W.  T.,  307. 

Sedalia,  Mo.,  88. 

Seigler  Springs,  CaL,  274. 
Seymour,  Ind.,  60,  190. 

319 


INDEX. 


Shasta,  Cal.,  285. 
ShawneetoAvn,  111.,  171. 
Sheboygan,  Wis.,  221. 
Shelbina,  Mo.,  86. 

Shelby,  O.,  58. 

Shelby  Junction,  184. 
S^elbyville,  111.,  59. 

Shelbyville,  Ind.,  188. 
Sheridan,  Kas.,  92. 

Sherman,  Wy.,  101. 

Shoshone  Falls,  Great,  253. 
Sibley,  Mo.,  176. 

Sidney,  Neb.,  100. 

Sidney,  O.,  53. 

Silver  Cieek,  Neb.,  98. 

Sinking  Creek,  Ky.,  170. 

Sioux  City,  lo.,  178,  205. 

Sitka,  Alaska,  310. 

Skagg’s  Springs,  Cal.,  272. 
Slate  Islands,  152. 

Smithland,  Ky.,  171. 

Snake  or  Shoshone  Eiver,  251. 
Snelling,  Cal.,  293. 

Solomon  City,  Kas.,  91. 

South  Bend,  Ind.,  22. 

South  Charleston,  O.,  41. 
South  Haven,  Mich.,  212. 
South  Pass  City,  Wy.,  106. 
Soda  Springs,  Napa,  Cal.,  269. 
Sparta,  Wis.,  217. 

Spencer,  Ind.,  191. 

Springfield,  lU.,  84. 

Springfield,  O.,  80. 

St.  Anthony,  Falls  o^  225. 

St.  Anthony,  Minn.,  225. 

St.  Charles,  Mo.,  176. 

St.  Clair  Flats  Ship-Canal,  138. 
St.  Clair  Eiver,  188, 

St.  Cloud,  Minn.,  226. 

St.  Croix  Falls,  227. 

St.  Genevieve,  Mo.,  173. 

St.  George,  Kas.,  91. 

St.  George,  U.  T.,  255. 

St.  Helena,  Cal.,  269. 

St.  Helen’s,  Ogn.,  306. 

St.  James,  Minn.,  225. 

St.  John’s  Eun,  Md.,  65. 

St.  Joseph,  Mich.,  212. 

St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  86. 

St.  Louis  (East),  46. 

St.  Louis,  Mo.,  46. 

St.  Louis  Eiver,  214. 

St.  Mary’s  Mission,  Kas.,  90. 
St.  Mary’s  Ship-Canal,  142. 

St,  Mary’s,  Wy.,  103. 

St.  Paul,  Minn.,  154. 

St.  Peter,  Minn.,  224. 

State  Line,  Ind.,  81. 
Steilacoom,  W.  T.,  307. 

Ste.  Ignace  Island,  152. 

Sto.  Marie  Eapids,  142. 
Sterling,  111.,  72. 

Steubenvillo,  O.,  25. 

Stillwater,  Minn.,  227. 
Stockton,  Cal.,  119. 

Stone  House,  Nev.,  115. 

Strait  of  Mackinaw,  139. 
Sturgis,  Mich.,  21. 

Summit  Siding,  Col.  T.,  94. 
Summit  Station,  Cal.,  117. 

Sun  Prairie,  Wis.,  217. 
Superior  City,  Wis.,  149. 
Sugar  Island,  142. 

320 


Sugar  Loaf,  The,  Mich.,  141. 
Suisun,  Bay  of,  268. 

Suscal,  Cal.,  269. 

Sutro  Tunnel,  The,  262. 
Sutherland,  Ont.,  139. 
Sweetwater  Mining  Eegion, 
Wy.,  105. 


Table  Eock,  Wy.,  104. 

Tamaroa,  111.,  195. 

Temperance  Eiver,  Minn.,  151. 
Terre  Haute,  Ind.,  45. 

Thayer,  Kas.,  236. 

Thebes,  111.,  172. 

Thornton,  Ind.,  188. 

Thunder  Bay,  152. 

Tiffin,  O.,  182. 

Tippecanoe,  O.,  181. 

Tippecanoe  Eiver,  186. 
Tip-Top,  lo.,  74. 

Tipton,  Mo.,  88. 

Toano,  Nev.,  113. 

Toledo,  O.,  19. 

Tolono,  111.,  84, 195. 

Tomah,  Wis.,  217. 
Tonquamenon  Bay,  143. 
Topeka,  Kas.,  90. 

Treasure  City,  Nev.,  £63. 
Trenton,  111.,  60. 

Trempeleau,  Wis.,  160. 

Troy,  O.,  181. 

Truckee,  Cal.,  116. 

Tuolumne  Big  Trees,  Cal.,  299. 
Tuscola,  111.,  195. 

Twelve  Apostles’  Islands,  The, 
148. 

Tipton,  Ind.,  189. 


Uintah,  U.  T.,  lOS. 

Umatilla,  Ogn.,  306. 

Uncle  Sam,  Mount,  Cal.,  274. 
Union  City,  Ind.,  28. 

Union,  O.  and  Ind.,  58. 
Uniontown,  Ky.,  171. 
Urbana,  O.,  28. 

Utah  Territory,  254. 


Yallejo,  Cal.,  269. 

Valley,  Neb.,  97. 

Valley  Junction,  O.,  187. 
Valparaiso,  Ind.,  25. 

Vancouver,  W.  T.,  289. 
Vandalia,  Ind.,  45. 

Van  Wert,  O.,  24. 

Vermilion,  D.  T.,  241. 

Vevay,  Ind.,  169. 

Victoria,  B.  C.,  308. 

Villa  Eidge,  111.,  196. 

Vincennes,  Ind.,  60. 

Vinton,  lo.,  204. 

Virginia  City,  Mon.,  252. 
Virginia  City,  Nev.,  262. 
Virginia  Mining  District,  Nev., 
262. 


Wabasha w,  Minn.,  159. 
Wabash,  Ind.,  83. 
Wabash  Eiver,  171, 186. 
Wadsworth,  Nev.,  115. 
Waiska  Bay,  143. 


Walla- Walla,  W.  T.,  308. 
Wamego,  Kas.,  91.  - 

Wanatah,  Ind.,  25, 191. 

Wapa  City,  Cal,  269. 
Wapakoneta,  O.,  181. 

Wapello,  lo.,  204. 

Warm  Springs,  Cal,  276. 

Warm  Springs,  U.  T.,  255. 
Warren,  O.,  29. 

Warrensburg,  Mo.,  88. 

Warsaw,  III,  82. 

Warsaw,  Ind.,  24. 

Warsaw,  Ky.,  169. 

Wasatch,  U.  T.,  107. 

Waseca,  Minn.,  224. 

Washakie,  Wy.,  104. 
Washington,  Ind.,  60. 
Washington,  Mo.,  87. 
Washington,  O.,  182. 
Washington  Junction,  Md.,  62. 
Washington  Territory,  307. 
Waterloo,  Ind.,  22. 

Waterloo,  lo.,  204. 

Waterloo,  Mich.,  210. 
Watertown,  Wis.,  217. 
Waukegan,  III,  199. 

Waukesha,  Wis.,  216. 

Wauseon,  O.,  21. 

Waverly,  lo.,  204. 

Waverly,  Mo.,  176. 

Wayne  City,  Mo.,  176. 

Wells,  Nev.,  113. 

Wellsburg,  W.  Va.,  165. 

Wells ville,  O.,  165. 

Weber  Canon,  U.  T.,  108. 

Weber  Station,  U.  T.,  108. 
Webster,  Mo.,  87. 

West  Liberty,  lo.,  78. 

West  Liberty,  O.,  182. 

West  Point,  Ky.,  170. 

Weston,  Mo.,  177,  235, 
Whatcom,  W.  T.,  308. 

Wheeling,  W.  Va.,  165. 
White-Bear  Lake,  Minn.,  156. 
White-Fish  Point,  144. 

White  & Hatch’s,  Cal,  293. 
White  Pigeon,  Mich.,  21. 

White  Pine  Mining  District 
Nev.,  262. 

White  Eiver,  186. 

White  Sulphur  Springs,  Cal, 
269. 

Whitehall,  Mich.,  211. 
Whitewater,  Wis.,  216. 

Willard’s  Landing,  111.,  172.  • 
Willamette  Eiver,  304. 
Willamette  Valley,  305. 
Williamsport,  Ind.,  84. 
Willoughby,  O.,  17. 

Willow  Island,  Neb.,  99. 
Wilmington,  O.,  182. 

Wilton,  lo.,  78. 

Winamac,  Ind.,  29. 

Winchester,  Ind.,  58. 
Winnebago,  Lake,  213. 
Winnebago,  Minn.,  224. 
Winneconne,  Wis.,  218. 
Winnemucca,  Nev.,  115. 
Winona,  Minn.,  159. 

Winthrop,  Mo.,  235. 

Wisconsin  Eiver,  213. 
Wisconsin,  State  of;  212. 

Wood  Eiv«r,  Neb.,  98. 


INDEX. 


Wooster,  0.,  24. 
.^^yandotte  Cave,  Ind.,  170. 
*^Vyandotte,  Kas.,  89. 
Wyandotte,  Micli.,  137. 
Wymington,  III,  196. 
Wyoming,  Minn.,  153. 
Wyoming  Territory,  246. 
Wyoming,  Wy.,  103. 


Xenia,  lU.,  60. 

Xenia,  O.,  41. 

Yankton,  D.  T.,  178,  241. 
Yellow  Creek,  O.,  183. 
Yellow  Springs,  O.,  41. 
Yellowstone  Biver,  Scenery 
249. 


Yerba  Buena,  CaL,  267. 
Yosemite  Valley,  Cal,  295. 
Yountville,  CaL,  269. 
Yreka,  CaL,  285. 

Ypsilanti,  Micb.,  5. 


Zanesville,  O.,  70. 

321 


THE  END. 


SOME  USEFUL  HINTS. 


There  are  certain  things  with  which  every  traveller  must  supply  himself  before 
starting  on  his  journey,  and  certain  facts,  a knowledge  of  which  will  be  useful  to  him 
while  on  his  way.  For  this  reason,  a little  time  devoted  to  an  examination  of  our 
advertising  pages  will  doubtless  be  profitably  spent. 

The  safest  and  most  convenient  shape,  for  instance,  into  which  the  traveller  can 
put  his  money  is  that  of  letters  of  credit,  or  circular  notes,  and  by  turning  to  the  ad- 
vertisements he  will  find  there  the  cards  of  Messrs.  Duncan,  Sherman  & Co.,  corner 
of  Pine  and  Nassau  Sts.,  New  York ; Morton,  Bliss  & Co.,  80  Broad  Street ; Wal- 
ker, Andrews  & Co.,  14  Wall  Street;  and  Jay  Cooke,  McCulloch  & Co.,  corner  of 
Pine  and  William  Streets.  These  eminent  banking-houses  issue  circular  notes  ” 
and  “ circular  letters  of  credit  ” payable  in  any  Western  city,  and  in  fact  available 
anywhere  in  the  world. 

C.  G.  Gunther’s  Sons,  602  Broadway,  have  a national  reputation  in  their  special 
line.  No  house  in  the  country  offers  such  an  extensive  and  comprehensive  assort- 
ment of  ladies’  and  gentlemen’s  furs — including  Russian  and  American  sables; 
black,  silver,  and  blue  foxes ; Astrakhan  and  ermine  goods ; fur  trimmings,  and 
every  thing  of  this  kind.  Their  establishment  is  well  worth  a visit. 

Dick’s  Soft  Capsules  are  decidely  the  best  shape  in  which  the  traveller  can  take 
such  medicines  as  he  is  liable  to  need  at  any  time,  especially  in  this  country,  where 
the  changes  of  climate  and  of  water  are  very  likely  to  cause  disorders.  They  contain 
genuine  medicines,  and  are  not  at  ail  unpleasant  to  take.  All  drug-stores  have  them. 

The  “ New  York  Belting  and  Packing  Co.”  represent  one  of  the  most  curious 
of  American  industries.  In  their  ware-rooms  may  be  seen  the  multitude  of  uses 
to  which  India-rubber  is  put  in  modern  manufacture. 


None  but  first-class  Hotels  are  invited  to  advertise  in  the  Hand-Book,  and  the 
fact  that  they  appear  therd  is  a guarantee  of  their  character. 

The  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  New  York,  is  known  everywhere  as  the  finest  hotel 
in  the  country,  and  one  of  the  pleasantest  to  put  up  at.  It  is  admirably  located,  has 
all  the  modern  conveniences  and  improvements,  and  from  its  lofty  observatory  a fine 
view  of  the  city  and  surroundings  may  be  had. 

The  Hoffman  House  is  also  a fine  hotel,  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  It  is  conducted 
on  the  “ European  Plan,”  and,  in  addition  to  its  elegantly-furnished  rooms,  in  suite 
and  singly,  has  an  excellent  restaurant,  where  meals  may  be  obtained  at  all  hours. 
It  offers  its  guests  all  the  modern  conveniences  and  improvements. 

“The  Windsor.” — ^This  Hotel  is  situated  in  the  very  heart  of  the  finest  and 
most  exclusive  portion  of  New  York  City,  and  is  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  Samuel 
Hawk,  so  well  and  widely  known  as  the  chief  of  the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  and  Mr. 
Gardner  Wetherbee,  of  the  Revere  House,  Boston,  which  is  sufficient  guarantee. 
Every  thing  is  elegant  and  costly,  and  nothing  left  undone  which  could  add  to  the 
comfort  of  its  guests. 

The  Continental  Hotel  is  the  leading  hotel  in  Philadelphia,  and  one  of  the  best 
in  the  country.  It  is  a handsome  and  imposing  edifice,  in  the  finest  portion  of  the 
city,  and  is  furnished  most  elaborately  and  tastefully.  Travellers  stopping  at  Phila- 
delphia, on  their  passage  southward,  will  find  this  the  place  to  put  up  at. 

The  White  Star  Line,  between  Queenstown  and  Liverpool,  carrying  the  TJ.  S. 
Mail. — These  magnificent  steamships  have  been  built  expressly  for  the  transatlantic 
trade,  with  the  view  of  affording  all  classes  of  passengers  greatly-increased  comfort 
and  accommodation.  The  ventilation  is  perfect,  and  each  section  is  thoroughly 
warmed.  A piano  and  library  are  provided,  and  fresh  water  is  laid  on  to  each  state- 
room. Office  of  the  Company,  19  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


J.  B-  K:il>Ta-SLE'S’  «Sc  CO-, 


^Proprietors, 


ITew  York,  Cork,  and  Liverpod 


The  six  largest  Steamships  in  the  World  ! 

OCEANIC,  BALTIC,  REPUBLIC, 

CELTIC,  ADRIATIC,  GAELIC. 

6,000  Tons’  Burden ; 3,000  Horse-power  each 

These  magnificent  Steamships  have  been  built  especially  for  the  Transatlantic 
trade,  with  a view  of  offering  to  all  classes  of  passengers  greatly-increased  comfort 
and  accommodations. 

The  midship  section  of  each  ship  (where  least  motion  is  felt)  is  devoted  solely 
to  saloon  passengers.  This  section  comprises  main  saloon,  smoking-room,  ladies* 
boudoir,  state-rooms,  hot  and  cold  baths,  etc.  A piano  and  library  are  provided, 
in  order  to  render  the  voyage  more  enjoyable.  Fresh  water  laid  on  to  each  state- 
room. 

The  ventilation  is  perfect,  and  each  section  is  thoroughly  warmed.  Wines,  etc., 
of  the  best  qualities,  to  be  procured  on  board. 


Saloon,  $80|  Gold;  Excursion,  $140,  Gold; 
Steerage,  outward,  $30  Currency. 

For  full  particulars,  apply  at 

“WHITE  STAR  LINE” 

Offices,  19  Broadway  N.  Y. 


J.  H.  SPAKKS,  Agent. 


DESCRIPTIVE  SOCIOLOGY. 


Mr.  Herbert  Spencer  has  been  for  several  years  engaged,  with  the  aid  of 
three  educated  gentlemen  in  his  employ,  in  collecting  and  organizing  the  facts 
concerning  all  orders  of  human  societies,  which  must  constitute  the  data  of  a true 
^cial  Science.  He  tabulates  these  facts  so  as  conveniently  to  admit  of  ex- 
tensive comparison,  and  gives  the  authorities  separately.  He  divides  the  races 
of  mankind  into  three  great  groups  : the  savage  races,  the  existing  civilizations, 
and  the  extinct  civilizations,  and  to  each  he  devotes  a series  of  works.  The 
first  installment, 

THE  SOCIOLOGICAL  HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND, 

in  seven  continuous  tables,  folio,  with  seventy  pages  of  verifying  text,  is  now 
ready.  This  work  will  be  a perfect  Cyclopaedia  of  the  facts  of  Social  Science, 
independent  of  all  theories,  and  will  be  invaluable  to  all  interested  in  social 
problems.  Price,  five  dollars.  This  great  work  is  spoken  of  as  follows : 

From  the  British  Quarterly  Reriew. 

“No  words  are  needed  to  indicate  the  immense  labor  here  bestowed,  or  the  great 
sociological  benefit  which  such  a mass  of  tabulated  matter  done  under  such  competent 
direction  will  confer.  The  work  will  constitute  an  epoch  in  the  science  of  comparative 
sociology.” 

From  the  Saturday  Review, 

“ The  plan  of  the  ‘Descriptive  Sociology  ’ is  new,  and  the  task  is  one  eminently  fitted 
to  be  dealt  with  by  Mr.  Herbert  Spencer’s  faculty  of  scientific  organizing.  His  object  is 
to  examine  the  natural  laws  which  govern  the  development  of  societies,  as  he  has  ex- 
amined in  former  parts  of  his  system  those  which  govern  the  development  of  individual 
life.  Now,  it  is  obvious  that  the  development  of  societies  can  be  studied  only  in  their 
history,  and  that  general  conclusions  which  shall  hold  good  beyond  the  limits  of  particu- 
lar societies  cannot  be  safely  drawn  except  from  a very  wide  range  of  facts.  Mr.  Spen- 
cer has  therefore  conceived  the  plan  of  making  a preliminary  collection,  or  perhaps  we 
should  rather  say  abstract,  of  materials  which  when  complete  will  be  a classified  epi- 
tome of  universal  history.” 

From  the  London  Examiner. 

“ Of  the  treatment,  in  the  main,  we  cannot  speak  too  highly;  and  we  must  accept 
it  as  a wonderfully  successful  first  attempt  to  furnish  the  student  of  social  science  with 
data  standing  toward  his  conclusions  in  a relation  like  that  in  which  accounts  of  the 
structures  and  functions  of  different  types  of  animals  stand  to  the  conclusions  of  the 
biologist.” 


THE  INTERNATIONAL 
SCIENTIFIC  SERIES. 


D.  Appleton  & Co.  have  the  pleasure  of  announcing  that  they 
have  made  arrangements  to  issue  a comprehensive  series  of  bootes, 
under  the  above  title,  from  eminent  men  of  different  countries. 
Although  not  specially  designed  for  the  instruction  of  beginners, 
these  works  will  be  adapted  to  the  non-scientific  public,  and  v/iil 
be,  as  far  as  possible,  explanatory  in  character  and  free  from  tech- 
nicalities. The  character  and  scope  of  the  works  will  be  best  illus- 
trated by  a reference  to  the  names  and  subjects  in  the  follov/ing 
list : 

Professor  JOHN  TYNDALL,  LL.D.,  F.E.S., 

THE  FORMS  OF  WATER  IN  CLOUDS,  RAIN,  RIVERS, 
ICE,  AND  GLACIERS.  (Recently  published.) 

WALTER  BAGEHOT. 

PHYSICS  AND  POLITICS.  (Recently  published.) 

Dr.  EDWARD  SMITH,  F.R.S. 

FOOD  AND  DIETS.  (Recently  published.) 

Professor  ALEXANDER  BAIN,  LL.D. 

RELATIONS  OF  MIND  AND  BODY  (Recently  pubhshed.) 

HERBERT  SPENCER,  Esq. 

THE  STUDY  OF  SOCIOLOGY.  (Recently  published.) 

Professor  JOSIAH  P.  COOKE,  Jr.  (of  Harvard  University). 

THE  NEW  CHEMISTRY. 

Dr.  J.  B.  PETTIGREW,  M.D.,  F.R.S, 

LOCOMOTION  OF  ANIMALS. 

Professor  BALFOUR  STEWART,  LL.D.,  F.R.S. 

THE  CONSERVATION  OF  ENERGY. 

Dr.  W.  B.  CARPENTER,  LL.D.,  F.R.S. 

TPIE  PRINCIPLES  OF  MENTAL  PHYSIOLOGY. 


1 


f 


Internatio7ial  Scientific  Series, 

Professor  E,  J.  MAEEY.  ^ 

^ THE  ANIMAL  MACHINE. 

Professor  SMELDOIf  AMOS. 

THE  SCIENCE  OF  LAW. 

Professor  C.  A.  YOUHG  (of  Dartmouth  College). 

THE  SUN. 

Professor  T.  K.  HUXLEY,  LL.D.,  F.R.S. 

BODILY  MOTION  AND  CONSCIOUSNESS. 

Sir  JOHN  LUBBOCK,  Bart,  F.R.S. 

THE  ANTIQUITY  OF  MAN. 

Professor  RUDOLPH  VIRCHOW  (of  the  University  of  Berlin). 
MORBID  PHYSIOLOGICAL  ACTION. 

Dr.  H.  CHARLTON  BASTIAN,  M.D.,  F.R.S. 

THE  BRAIN  AS  AN  ORGAN  OF  MIND. 

Professor  Y/.  THISELTON  DYER,  B.A.,  B.Sc. 

FORM  AND  HABIT  IN  FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

Professor  ¥/.  KINGDOM  CLIFFORD,  M.A. 

THE  FIRST  PRINCIPLES  OF  THE  EXACT  SCIENCES 
EXPLAINED  TO  THE  N ON-MATHEMATICAL. 

Mr.  J.  H.  LOCKYER,  F.R.S. 

SPECTRUM  ANALYSIS. 

W.  LAUDER  LINDSAY,  M.D.,  F.R.S.E. 

MIND  IN  THE  LOWER  ANIMALS. 

Professor  A.  C.  RAMSAY,  LL.D.,  F.R.S. 

EARTH  SCULPTURE  : Hills,  Valleys,  Mountains,  Plains,  Rivers, 
Lakes ; how  they  were  produced,  and  how  they  have  been  destroyed. 

Dr.  HENRY  MAUDSLEY. 

RESPONSIBILITY  IN  DISEASE. 

Professor  MICHAEL  FOSTER.  M.D. 

PROTOPLASM  AND  THE  CELL-THEORY. 


Internationa^  Scientific  Series.  • 

xRev.  BEEKELY,  M.A.,  F.L.S. 

their  Nature,  Influences,  and  Uses.  - 

P^rofe^or  CLAUDE  BEEMAE.D  (of  the  College  of  France). 

PHYSICAL  AND  METAPHYSICAL  PHENOMENA  OF  LIFE. 

Professor  A.  Q.UETELET  (of  the  Brussels  Academy  of  Sciences). 
SOCIAL  PHYSICS. 

Professor  H.  SAIITTE-CLAIRE  DEVILLE. 

AIsT  INTRODUCTION  TO  GENERAL  CHEMISTRY. 

Professor  WUETZ. 

ATOMS  AND  THE  ATOMIC  THEORY. 

Professor  D.  GUATREFAGES. 

THE  NEGRO  RACES. 

Professor  LACAZE-DUTHIERS. 

ZOOLOGY  SINCE  CUVIER. 

Professor  BEETHELOT. 

CHEMICAL  SYNTHESIS. 

Professor  JAMES 'B.  BAH  A,  M.A.,  LL.B. 

ON  CEPHALIZATION  ; or.  Head  Domination  in  its  Relation  to 
Structure,  Grade,  and  Development. 

Professor  S.  W.  JOHH’SOE’,  M.A. 

ON  THE  NUTRITION  OF  PLANTS. 

Professor  AITSTI¥  FLINT,  Jr.,  M.D. 

THE  NERVOUS  SYSTEM  AND  ITS  RELATION  TO  THE 
BODILY  FUNCTIONS. 

Professor  W.  B.  WHITNEY. 

MODERN  LINGUISTIC  SCIENCE. 

Other  eminent  authors,  as  Wallace,  Helmholtz,  Parks,  Milne- 
Edwards,  Rosenthal,  and  H/eckel,  have  given  strong  encouragement 
that  they  will  also  take  part  in  the  enterprise. 

B.  APPLETON  & CO.,  PuUisliers, 

549  and  551  Broadv/ay,  N.  Y. 

3 


0 


J 

Opinions  of  the  Press  on  the 


^ \ International  S dentine  ferieL ” 


I. 

* Tyndall’s  Forms  of  Water. 

I voL,  i2mo.  Cloth,  Illustrated.  .......  Price,  $1.50. 

“ In  the  volume  now  published,  Professor  Tyndall  has  presented  a noble  illustration 
of  the  acuteness  and  subtlety  of  his  intellectual  powers,  the  scope  and  insight  of  his 
scientific  vision,  his  singular  command  of  the  appropriate  language  of  exposition,  and  ' 
the  peculiar  vivacity  and  grace  with  which  he  unfolds  the  results  of  intricate  scientific 


research.” — N.  Y.  Tribune. 

**  The  ‘ Forms  of  Water,’  by  Professor  Tyndall,  is  an  interesting  and  instructive 
little  volume,  admirably  printed  and  illustrated.  Prepared  expressly  for  this  series,  it 
is  in  some  measure  >a  guarantee  of  the  excellence  of  the  volumes  that  will  follow,  and  an 
indication  that  the  publishers  will  spare  no  pains  to  include  iiF the  series  the  freshest  in- 
vestigations of  the  best  scientific  minds.* ’-^Bosion  Journal. 

This  series  Is  admirably  commenced  by  this  little  volume  from  the  pen  of  Prof. 
Tyndall.  A perfect  master  of  his  subject,  he  presents  in  a style  easy  and  attractive  his 
methods  of  investigation,  and  the  results  obtained,  and  gives  to  the  reader  a clear  con- 
ception of  all  the  wondrous  transformations  to  which  water  is  subjected.” — Churchma^i, 


II. 

Bagehot’s  Physics  and  Politics. 

I vol.,  i2mo.  Price,  $1.50. 

If  the  * International  Scientific  Series  ’ proceeds  as  it  has  begun,  it  will  more  than 
fulfil  the  promise  given  to  the  reading  public  in  its  prospectus.  The  first  volume,  by 
Professor  Tyndall,  was  a model  of  lucid  and  attractive  scientific  exposition  ; and  now 
we  have  a second,  by  Mr.  Walter  Bagehot,  which  is  not  only  very  lucid  and  charming, 
but  also  original  and  suggestive  in  the  highest  degree.  Nowhere  since  the  publication 
of  Sir  Henry  Maine’s  ‘Ancient  Law,’  have  we  seen  so  many  fruitful  thoughts  sug- 
gested in  the  course  of  a couple  of  hundred  pages.  ...  To  do  justice  to  Mr.  Bage- 
hot’s fertile  book,  would  require  a long  article.  With  the  best  of  intentions,  we  are 
conscious  of  having  given  but  a sorry  account  of  it  in  these  brief  paragraphs.  But  we 
hope  we  have  said  enough  to  commend  it  to  the  attention  of  the  thoughtful  reader.”— 
Prof.  John  Fiske,  In  the  Atlantic  Monthly. 

“ Mr.  Bagehot’s  style  is  clear  and  vigorous.  We  refrain  from  giving  a fuller  ac- 
count of  these  suggestive  essays,  only  because  we  are  sure  that  our  readers  will  find  it 
worth  their  while  to  peruse  the  book  for  themselves ; and  we  sincerely  hope  that  the 
forthcoming  parts  of  the  ‘ International  Scientific  Series  ’ will  be  as  interesting.” — 
A thenoeu77t. 

“ Mr.  Bagehot  discusses  an  Immense  variety  of  topics  connected  with  the  progress 
of  societies  and  nations,  and  the  development  of  their  distinctive  peculiarities ; and  his 
book  shows  an  abundance  of  ingenious  and  original  thought.” — Al^'red  Russell 
Wallace,  in  Nature. 


% 


D.  APPLETON  & CO.,  Publishers,  549  & 551  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


I vol.,  i2mo.  Cloth.  Illustrated Price,  $1.75. 

In  making  up  The  International  Scientific  Series,  Dr.  Edward  Smith  was  se-  ? 
lected  as  the  ablest  man  in  England  to  treat  the  important  subject  of  Foods.  His  services 
were  secured  for  the  undertaking,  and  the  little  treatise  he  has  produced  shows  that  the 
choice  of  a writer  on  this  subject  was  most  fortunate,  as  the  book  is  unquestionably  the 
clearest  and  best-digested  compend  of  the  Science  of  Foods  that  has  appeared  in  our 
language. 

“ The  book  contains  a series  of  diagrams,  displaying  the  effects  of  sleep  and  meals 
on  pulsation  and  respiration,  and  of  various  kinds  of  food  on  respiration,  which,  as  the 
results  of  Dr.  Smith’s  own  experiments,  possess  a very  high  value.  We  have^  not  far 
to  go  in  this  work  for  occasions  of  favorable  criticism  ; they  occur  throughout,  but  are 
perhaps  most  apparent  in  those  parts  of  the  subject  with  which  Dr.  Smith’s  name  is  es- 
pecially linked.” — London  Examiner. 

“ The  union  of  scientific  and  popular  treatment  in  the  composition  of  this  work  will 
afford  an  attraction  to  many  readers  who  would  have  been  indifferent  to  purely  theoretic 
cal  details.  . . . Still  his  work  abounds  in  information,  much  of  which  is  of  great  value, 
and  a part  of  which  could  not  easily  be  obtained  from  other  sources.  Its  interest  is  de- 
cidedly enhanced  for  students  who  demand  both  clearness  and  exactness  of  statement, 
by  the  profusion  of  well-executed  woodcuts,  diagrams,  and  tables,  which  accompany  thq 
volume.  . . . The  suggestions  of  the  author  on  the  use  of  tea  and  coffee,  and  of  the  va- 
rious forms  of  alcohol,  although  perhap)s  not  strictly  of  a novel  character,  are  highly  in- 
structive, and  form  an  interesting  portion  of  the  volume.” — N.  Y.  Tribune. 


IV. 

Body  and  Mind. 

the  theories  of  their  relation. 

By  ALEXANDER  BAIN,  LL.  D. 

Professor  Bain  is  the  author  of  two  well-known  standard  works  upon  the  Science 
of  Mind — “The  Senses  and  the  Intellect,”  and  “The  Emotions  and  the  Will.”  He  is 
one  of  the  highest  living  authorities  in  the  school  which  holds  that  there  can  be  no  sound  \ 

or  valid  psychology  unless  the  mind  and  the  body  are  studied,  as  they  exist,  together. 

“It  contains  a forcible  statement  of  the  connection  between  niind  and  body,  study- 
ing their  subtile  interworkings  by  the  light  of  the  most  recent  physiological  investiga- 
tions. The  summary  in  Chapter  V.,  of  the  investigations  of  Dr.  Lionel  Beale  of  the 
embodiment  of  the  intellectual  functions  in  the  cerebral  system,  will  be  found  the 
freshest  and  most  interesting  part  of  his  book.  Prof.  Bain’s  own  theory  of  the  cennee-  | 

tion  between  the  mental  and  the  bodily  part  in  man  is  stated  by  himself  to  be  as  follows  : | 

There  is  ‘one  substance,  with  two  sets  of  properties,  two  sides,  the  physical  and  ^e  » 

mental — a double-faced  tiniiy.'  While,  in  the  strongest  manner,  asserting  the  union 
of  mind  with  brain,  he  yet  denies  ‘ the  association  of  union  in  flax e,'  but  asserts  the 
union  of  close  succession  in  time,’  holding  that  ‘ the  same  being  is,  by  alternate  fits,  un- 
der extended  and  under  unextended  consciousness.”  ’ — Christian  Register. 

D.  APPLETON  & CO.,  Publishers,  New  York. 


methods  devised  to  overcome  the  nauseous  taste  of  some  mej||j|pes, 
as  Jfar,  Turpentine,  Extract  Male  Fern,  and  even  of  Castor  and  Cod-Liver 
none  have  as  vet  equalled  that  of  Capsules,  they  having  numerous  advantages 
over  all  other  forms,  and  the  Capsules  having  the  most  advantages  are  those  made 
. l)y  Dundas,  Dick  & Co.,  of  this  city — ^being  superior  to  any  other  made  in  America, 
and,  also,  to  those  imported  from  Europe ; and,  when  quality  and  the  late  reduc- 
tion (about  20  per  cent.)  are  taken  into  account,  we  may  safely  say  they  are  the 
cheapest  made.  They  are  easily  swallowed,  even  by  children,  being  soft ; con- 
tain genuine  medicines,  and  may  always  be  relied  on;  are  not  objectionable  in 
any  way ; and  are  put  up  in  an  elegant  and  pleasing  manner,  and  expressly  for 
the  prescription  trade.  Under  these  circumstances,  we  are  not  surprised  to  learn 
that  they  are  now  the  only  ones  ordered  by  physicians,  and  that  the  great  success 
of  this  Company  has  no  precedent  in  the  Capsules  manufacture. — New-  York  Drug- 
gists* Price- Current,  Dec.  14,  1870 


OIck’s  Soft  Capsules  solve  the  proMem  long  and 
anxiously  considered  by  many  of  our  most  eminent  physicians, 
of  how  to  avoid  for  the  patient  the  nausea  and  disgust  experi- 
enced in  swallowing,  which  are  well  known  to  often  detract  from, 
if  not  destroy,  the  beneficial  effects  of  some  of  the  most  valuable 
remedies  prescribed. 

The  Soft  Capsules  are  handsomely  put  up  in  tin-foil  and  neat 
boxes,  containing  30  each.  Every  box  contains  plain  and  concise 
► directions  for  those  taking  the  contents,  without  the  advice  of  a 
physician,  and  can  be  had  at  every  respectable  drug-store  in  tin 
United  States. 


These  were  the  only  Capsules  admitted  to  the 
last  Paris  Exposition. 


G-EXsTPlPiA.IL.  AG-EXTC^, 

i 10  Reado  Street,  Mew  York. 


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SPRING,  SUMMER,  FALI,  AND  WINTER, 


^Importing  and  manufacturing  largeiy,  vte  CAN  and  WJ^I^L  o"& 
I'cexnents  to  every  patrbn. 


ui^ioN  Ai>Ain:s  & CO, 

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